Tivol

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ACCENT/ THE MAGA ZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBR ATIONS SPRING/SUMMER 2013

ROBERT PRO COP

style of jolie the collection makes its american retail debut at tivol

Mediterranean Sea. “Gamma� men in training. The diver emerging from the water is wearing a Panerai compass on his wrist.

history a n d heroes.

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WELCOME TO TIVOL

A

t TIVOL, once our holiday season is over, we plan special events for the next year and begin showcasing new designer lines. Look for Armenta — a wildly popular collection in 18K yellow gold, blackened sterling and precious gemstones — at both our Country Club Plaza and Hawthorne Plaza stores. Emily Armenta’s story is compelling, and you will read about it in this issue. (I also met her handsome MD husband at the Centurion Jewelry Show. He specializes in plastic surgery, and I seized the moment by requesting an emergency consult with him.)

ON THE COVER Designer Robert Procop and actress Angelina Jolie have collaborated to create The Style of Jolie jewelry collection. In this publicity image, Procop places a vintage Cartier choker (circa 1906) around Jolie’s neck. She wore the diamond and platinum necklace while starring in The Tourist with Johnny Depp.

Above: Ryann Rinker, director of merchandising, and Cathy Tivol, CEO, ham for the camera with the same vintage Cartier choker that Robert Procop and Angelina Jolie posed with for the cover of TIVOL Magazine.

Robert Procop, an incredible jewelry designer who has fl own under the radar but whose status will soon be known worldwide, has partnered with Angelina Jolie on a collection of chic, simple, important jewelry called The Style of Jolie. Procop and Jolie’s proceeds go to The Education Partnership for Children in Conflict, and TIVOL will be the first retail location in the United States to launch the collection. Add to that an article describing our most recent ad campaign that we’ve introduced, and you finally come to the most exciting feature by far of this issue: a restaurant crawl showing Mark and I chowing down at our favorite Kansas City restaurants. Welcome to spring 2013 at TIVOL.

INSIDE TIVOL MAGAZINE: The Timepiece Issue Learn about the newest Swiss watch trends, designs and luxury models like this Cartier Tank Anglaise in 18K pink gold with diamonds. $32,900.

Cathy Tivol ceo, tivol

INSIDE Spring/Summer 2013 800.829.1515

tivol.com

Country Club Plaza 220 Nichols Road Kansas City, MO 64112 A. Jaffe oral ring with grayish, violet-blue sapphire and diamonds $10,995

Hawthorne Plaza 4721 W. 119th St. Overland Park, KS 66209 Chairman Emeritus Harold Tivol CEO Cathy Tivol General Manager Brian Butler Director of Merchandising Ryann Rinker Director of Marketing & Local Content Editor-in-Chief Adam Gebhardt Marketing Coordinator & Local Content Photographer Kelly Schottler Published by the BJI Fashion Group

features 4 10 14 16 18 21 32 34 38 42 44 48 50 53 66 70 76

In the Loupe: TIVOL Party & Event Pics From the Runways ProďŹ le: Designers David & Sybil Yurman ProďŹ le: Emily Armenta Investment Protection: Vacation Savvy Spring Jewelry Trends 2013 Employee ProďŹ le: Patrick Switlik The American Launch of The Style of Jolie Here Comes the Bride: Bridal Jewelry Cars: Perfect Timing Perfect Gems: World Luxuries ProďŹ le: Faber-Castell ProďŹ le: Nate Berkus Special Section: Watches Eats: Food for Thought Cathy & Mark: Dinner Out Spirits: Fine Tequila

special section: watches 54 56 62 64

Watch Wisdom 2013 Watch Trends ProďŹ le: TAG Heuer TW Steel Color Play

Publisher Stu Nifoussi National Content Editor-in-Chief Karen Alberg Grossman Design Director Hans Gschliesser Managing Editor Jillian LaRochelle Project Manager Lisa Montemorra Designers Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti Production Manager Peg Eadie President and CEO Britton Jones Chairman and COO Mac Brighton Prices are subject to change without notice and may vary depending on size, quality and availability. Copyright 2013. Accent is published by Business Journals, Inc, PO Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015. Fax 203-852-8175; AdvertisLQJ 2IÀ FH %URDGZD\ WK )ORRU 1< 1< )D[ $OO 5LJKWV 5HVHUYHG 7KH SXEOLVKHUV accept no responsibilities for advertisers’ claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 11, Issue 1. Accent is a trademark of Business Journals, Inc. registered in the U.S. Patent and TradePDUN RIÀ FH 3ULQWHG LQ 7KH 8 6 $

IN THE LOUPE Fashion’s Night Out

09.06.12

TIVOL on the Country Club Plaza marked this national celebration of glamour and fashion trends by featuring the work of Italian jewelry designer Di Modolo in an expansive trunk show. Proceeds from a raffle supported Wayside Waifs.

A) A) Marvin Scherzer, VP of Di Modolo. B) Chloe Mann, Amecceo Watkins. C) DJ Kirby Ham. D) Victoria Danilov, Viktorya Zaslavsky, Sofia Krupnik, Daniel Zaslavsky, Svetlana Danilov, Alla Lachman.

C)

B)

D)

A)

35+89, LAGOS+TIVOL 09.28.12 TIVOL celebrated the 35th anniversary of LAGOS by welcoming designer Steven Lagos on September 28, which also happened to be Harold Tivol’s 89th birthday. Proceeds from a raffle supported Autism Speaks.

A) Leslie Goldhahn, Kathryn Thomas. B) Chris Cullen, LAGOS President; Lindsay Sargeant, LAGOS PR & Events Manager. C) Cathy Tivol, Steven Lagos, Ruthie Tivol, Harold Tivol. D) Nolan Klein, Rosalie Klein, Jared Klein. E) Travis Daniels; Gary Pener, TIVOL Plaza Store Manager; Brandon Flowers.

B)

C)

E)

D)

Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels 10.18.12

A)

TIVOL welcomed Robert Procop as he introduced his Exceptional Jewels collection at a small dinner party at Webster House. Procop returns in spring 2013 to launch The Style of Jolie, which he designs in partnership with Angelina Jolie. The collection will make its American retail debut at TIVOL.

A) Robert Procop (center) enjoying the festivities. B) Dawn Fire; Brian Butler, TIVOL General Manager. C) Ryann Rinker, TIVOL Director of Merchandising; Gigi Rose. D) Trudy Jacobson, Robert Procop. E) Margaret Murray, Megan Murray. F) Kym Mossman, Robert Procop.

C) B)

D)

E)

F)

A)

Couples’ Night Out 11.30.12 With the help of designer lines Carelle, Stephen Webster, Armenta and TW Steel timepieces, TIVOL devoted an evening to celebrating couples by raffling dinners for two at Plazaarea restaurants. Proceeds from the raffle supported The Kemper Museum of Contemporary Art.

B)

A) Dawn Belshe, Robert Belshe, Hunter Tivol McGrath. B) Amanda Hillis, Tyler Dean, Lucas Patterson, Peyton Hillis. C) Don Siegmund, Sarah Siegmund. D) Amy Morrison, Glenn Dorsey, Lindsay Archer, Travis Daniels. E) Pua Simons, Paige Patterson, Bill Patterson.

C)

D)

E)

A)

Production of the new TIVOL Video Ad Campaign Fall 2012 Last fall, TIVOL launched a new series of print, television and digital ads promoting its new campaign, “Two Stores, A Thousand Stories.â€? The multimedia effort appeared on local television stations as well as Hulu.com, and featured two couples: one getting engaged on the Plaza, and another on a date at Dagwood’s Cafe. A TIVOL theme song was composed speciďŹ cally for the new campaign as well. A) Adam Gebhardt, TIVOL Director of Marketing, and Kelly Schottler, TIVOL Marketing Coordinator, pose with a TIVOL box in the kitchen of Dagwood’s. B) Actors Matthew Voelker and Sheena PeĂąa take their places in front of the crew from t2 Studios. C) Filming at Dagwood’s goes late into the night. D) Zach Dierks, t2 Studios, and Adam Gebhardt oversee the direction of a scene ďŹ lmed at the Plaza store.

B)

Two Stores, A Thousand Stories

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D)

EXHIBITS

deepsea challenge True to its passion for underwater exploration, Rolex is taking an active part in the DEEPSEA CHALLENGE expedition of filmmaker and explorer James Cameron (Titanic, Avatar), in partnership with the National Geographic Society. On March 26, 2012, the expedition descended 10,898 meters (35,756 feet) to reach Challenger Deep, the ocean’s deepest point located in the Mariana Trench, southwest of Guam in the Pacific Ocean. An experimental diver’s watch A Rolex watch attached to the manipulator arm of the submersible accompanied Cameron as he dove to the depths of Challenger Deep. The Oyster Perpetual Rolex Deepsea Challenge, an experimental diver’s watch, was specially developed and manufactured for the occasion, tested and guaranteed waterproof to new depths, confirming Rolex’s position as the leading brand in waterproofness. “The Rolex Deepsea Challenge was the reliable companion throughout the dive; it was visible on the sub’s manipulator arm, and working precisely at 10,898 meters down at the bottom of Challenger Deep,” Cameron said after his historic dive. “It’s a tremendous example of engineering know-how, and an ideal match for the Deepsea Challenger submersible.” Echoing the historic dive of 1960 Both Cameron’s expedition and the Rolex Deepsea Challenge directly echo the bathyscaphe Trieste’s historic dive on January 23, 1960, the fi rst and until now the only manned dive to what was then the deepest-known point in the Mariana Trench. On that exploit, an experimental Oyster model, the Deep Sea Special, attached to the hull accompanied the Trieste into the abyss. It reached the record depth of 10,916 metres (35,814 feet), returning to the surface in perfect working order, a feat that remained unrivaled for more than half a century. Cameron was thrilled at the additional opportunity to take a 1960 Deep Sea Special with him. “As soon as I got into the sub, I found a special place to attach the ‘Old Lady,’ the sister of the watch that went down 52 years ago on the Trieste. She kept me company on the dive to the most remote place on this planet, and was my good luck charm.” To comply with the stringent certification requirements for diver’s watches, the Rolex Deepsea Challenge is tested by Rolex in a specially created hyperbaric tank at a pressure of 1,500 bars, corresponding to the pressure at a depth of 15,000 meters (nearly 50,000 feet), 25 percent greater than the depth to which the watch is guaranteed waterproof. At a depth of 15,000 meters, the load exerted on the crystal is 17 tons (13.6 tons at 12,000 meters), and on the case back nearly 23 tons; a total of some 40 tons is borne by the support ring in the middle case. In the wake of the ROLEX DEEPSEA CHALLENGE The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is fitted with a patented TRIPLOCK screw-down winding crown with a triple waterproofness system, the same type that equips all Rolex diver’s watches. It also has other technical features of the Rolex Deepsea, such as a unidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with a CERACHROM insert in ceramic; a CHROMALIGHT display with long-lasting luminescence (handsand hour markers); a self-winding mechanical movement (calibre 3135) with a paramagnetic blue PARACHROM hairspring; and a solid-link OYSTER bracelet fitted with an OYSTERLOCK clasp with a safety catch, and the Rolex GLIDELOCK and FLIPLOCK diving extension systems.

The watch that dove to the deepest reaches of the oceans was on display at TIVOL - Hawthorne Plaza from April 19 through April 29, 2013.

from the

RUNWAYS

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1

FEELING BLUE

Shades from aqua to teal are making a splash in fashion! Jewelry takes its cue and plunges in.

3 5

1. Penny Preville 18K white gold sapphire and diamond earrings, $8,605 2. Henri Daussi platinum sapphire and diamond ring, $49,165 3. Carelle Leaf Collection 18K yellow gold and turquoise necklace, $3,225 4. Stephen Webster Forget Me Knot Collection sapphire, black diamond and quartz bracelet, $21,500 5. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold sapphire and diamond cuff bracelet, $31,500

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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from the

RUNWAYS

1 CUT IT OUT

2

3 1. Di Modolo sterling silver and rock crystal earrings, $495 2. Carelle Leaf Collection 18K yellow gold and diamond earrings, $4,150 3. Roberto Coin Bollicine Collection 18K yellow gold and diamond cuff bracelet, $4,700 4. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold diamond bracelet, $27,940

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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Whether stamped out or stitched on, cutouts prove that beauty can abound in empty spaces.

from the

RUNWAYS

2

1 FLORAL FANTASY Pretty prints are in bloom for spring and summer.

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5 1. Roberto Coin Spring Collection 18K rose gold amethyst and diamond necklace, $10,800 2. Penny Preville 18K white gold and diamond necklace, $7,915 3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 18K white gold and diamond watch, $14,800 4. Rahaminov 18K white gold diamond flower ring, $43,560 5. Brumani Baobab Rose Collection 18K rose gold rose quartz, pink tourmaline and diamond earrings, $27,835

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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from the

RUNWAYS

1 GRAPHIC IMPACT Black and white color blocking makes a strong statement.

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2

1. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold agate and black diamond flower pin, $3,220 2. Roberto Coin 18K white gold diamond and black sapphire bracelet, $10,700 3. Roberto Demeglio Joy Collection ceramic bracelet, $1,540 4. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold diamond and agate earrings, $5,210

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RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

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DESIGNERS Crossing Over “In the new Crossover collection [far left], we combine smooth and cable cords to create contrast, texture and a sense of movement. It’s really a symbol of the way Sybil and I work together: everything we do is intertwined.” —David Yurman

we found ourselves in the jewelry business.” Though he never set out to be a jewelry designer, working closely with Sybil, a painter in her own right, led him to explore different avenues of artistic expression. For the two halves of the famed Yurman design team, their collaboration as artists epitomizes the very essence of yin and yang. “We complement each other,” says Sybil, “and that creates a dynamic unity. Together, we create something bigger than us, sometimes larger than life itself.” While David sees the world through the lens of a sculptor, with a refined sense of proportion and a threedimensional perspective, his muse sees the world as a kaleidoscope of emotion, color, form and movement. After years of designing sculptural jewelry that was sold at craft shows and galleries, it was David’s creation of the cable bracelet, a twisted helix of sterling silver wire composed of multiple strands, that put his name on the proverbial map. The piece became an instant icon, a contemporary classic that has served as the thread that runs through all of the collections. Deemed a phenomenon in the jewelry world, David Yurman’s handcrafted creations — silver paired with gold, and diamonds and semi-precious stones set in silver — were revolutionary. The pieces, with ancient Gothic and Egyptian references, blended classic with contemporary styling. “We bridged the gap between fashion and fine jewelry, and we used art as the bridge,” says David. For David and Sybil Yurman, beautiful jewelry is not the end result of a simple technique or a single element. Outstanding quality and extraordinary craftsmanship are achieved from a foundation of artistic excellence. Over 30 years later, what began as an artist’s passion for sculpture and a painter’s love for color has turned into a jewelry house that continues in the classic tradition of the guild, but pushes the boundaries of convention with imagination and innovation.

WORKING

ARTISTS Sybil Yurman remains David’s muse. And so much more.

‘‘W

e create art for people to wear.” With those words, David and Sybil Yurman articulated an enduring vision for their company, America’s foremost jewelry house for over 30 years. From the very beginning, their belief that art is personal — that the artist’s world is unique and the creative process is an expression of the artist’s aesthetic — made using the word ‘jewelry’ seem insufficient. ‘Jewelry’ doesn’t entirely encompass David Yurman’s vision of what he is creating, nor does it express his passion for the creative process, his love of design and his refusal to be led by conventional wisdom. His interest in sculpting began early, at just 13 years old. During summers off from high school, David studied art, working as an apprentice to Cuban sculptor Ernesto Gonzales in Provincetown, Massachusetts. In his 20s, he hitchhiked to California, joining other artists in Big Sur, and immersing himself in the culture and lifestyle of the bohemian community. Moving back to his native New York City several years later to pursue his passion for sculpture and form, he served apprenticeships under master sculptors Jacques Lipschitz, Hans Van de Bovenkamp and Theodore Rozack — experiences he describes as life-altering. Then, another call from destiny: the chance meeting of his muse and future wife and partner, Sybil. His romantic nature inspired, he sculpted a piece of jewelry as a gift for her. She wore it to an art gallery opening and the owner, taken with the design, asked if David had more to sell. He recalls, “I couldn’t imagine recreating something so personal that I had made for Sybil, so I said ‘no.’ But at the very same moment, Sybil said ‘yes’ — and, like that,

“We use art

to bridge the gap between fashion

and fine jewelry.” David Yurman

14

PROFILE

Armenta’s

fresh Approach Emily Armenta’s business model may not be typical, but her company’s unique take on celebrating the beauty of women — both on the inside and out — is making its mark in the jewelry industry. Jewelry pictured above: (Top right) Oxidized sterling silver band with 18K yellow gold Cravelli crosses and diamonds. $2,945. (Top left) Cravelli cross earrings with diamonds, faceted white quartz over sugelite, oxidized sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. $1,500.

E

mily Armenta, who was born into a family of artists, has been imagining and creating designs for jewelry since she first learned about gemstones during her childhood. Since then, Armenta’s aesthetic has evolved and matured, and she has found deeper inspiration after reading the poetry of Fedrico Garcia Lorca. A Spanish writer, Lorca wrote about a creative force that dwells within all of us, known as duende. According to the author, duende “is a power and not a behavior; it is the struggle that one must endure to create something of greatness.” Armenta believes in this principle and uses it as a starting point for her creative process, which she describes as the search for a deeper meaning behind art. Her passion for Spanish literature — mixed with her own feminine sensibilities — results in a look that is composed of striking, ethereal designs, primarily made of 18K and 22K yellow gold, 18K rose gold and “midnight” oxidized sterling silver with diamonds and gemstones. In the case of both yellow and rose golds, Armenta mixes her own metals in order to acquire the exact color she has envisioned. “I am inspired by the creativity that surrounds me on a daily basis,” says Armenta. “Spending time at the studio provides an incredible opportunity for me to invent and create something that can never be duplicated. Furthermore, the studio is a magical place for me, as I am able to see firsthand how believing in duende can make the impossible become a reality.” In 2012, TIVOL began carrying Armenta, and the response from customers was immediate.

Below: Cravelli cross earrings with diamonds, white sapphires, oxidized sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. $1,770.

Above, clockwise from left: Cravelli cross earrings (see opposite page for details). Oxidized sterling silver and 18K yellow gold oval link necklace. $3,125. 18K yellow gold faceted blue topaz over labradorite pendant with diamonds, white sapphires and sterling silver. $2,270. Open scroll earrings with blue mother-of-pearl over rose de France drop, diamonds, oxidized sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. $3,200. White quartz over sugelite ring with diamonds, 18K yellow gold accents and oxidized sterling silver. $1,980. Heraldry shield ring with diamonds, white sapphires, oxidized sterling silver and 18K yellow gold. $1,845.

“It’s approachable luxury,” says Ryann Rinker, director of merchandising at TIVOL. “Armenta is a high-quality collection that is priced extremely well for the self-purchaser looking to add something unique to her wardrobe.” This distinctive look does not come by happenstance. Armenta carefully considers the materials used in every creation, as well as its look, feel and the deeper meaning of the message behind it. “Each piece is handcrafted in our studio and it tells a story,” Armenta says. “I explore working with many metals and gemstones to create art. For example, the oxidized silver of the Midnight collection honors the creative force of nighttime, which instills in us an almost religious transport. The black hue represents the mystery of art that we all know of but do not understand.” Beyond the exceptional jewelry, the company’s culture is equally unique and driven by Armenta’s commitment to duende. The designer makes a point to hire and promote people who are talented, but not necessarily qualified in a traditional way. “Contrary to what many people in the industry would consider wise business practices, I have chosen to hire women based on their passion and courage for life rather than their skill set,” says Armenta. “I hire people

who have duende. I am so proud we have trained and educated every person at the studio, and they have blossomed into incredibly skilled craftsmen, each of whom are true artisans. “Due to the success of the studio, I have been able to offer opportunities to those who have had to struggle and have provided them a chance for a better life. Because of the background of the women at the studio, the symbolism in the collection is very important to us; it focuses on art throughout history that depicts beautiful stories about inspiration, dreams and overcoming all odds.” It was this approach to business along with Armenta’s proven success that led to the company being recognized in fall 2012 by Ernst & Young LLP as a recipient of its Entrepreneurial Winning Women award. The program is a national competition and leadership initiative that identifies and connects female entrepreneurs with advisors, resources and insights that could help scale their businesses to become market leaders. “The story behind the women who work at the studio is truly one of inspiration and is what the American Dream is all about,” Armenta says. “I feel that I have been given a chance in life to make a difference in the lives of others and challenge the status quo. This belief is a guiding principle that all of us at Armenta embrace and strive to pass on to others.”

INVESTMENT PROTECTION

vacation

savvy If you don’t want to leave your jewelry or fine timepiece behind while traveling, you should plan ahead to help reduce risk.

With vacation season just around the corner, it is best to be informed about the places you plan to visit. Having a strategy for what items you plan to pack — particularly when traveling with fine jewelry or timepieces — is an excellent idea, and it’s always good to be cautious. A STEP in the right direction Many travelers enjoy visiting more adventurous locations such as developing nations and remote destinations. But be advised that in some parts of the world, wearing valuables can make you a target for petty theft. For many of these locations, the Department of State has a Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (STEP) that allows you to notify the local embassy of your impending trip. In addition, STEP provides an email alert system that will send updates on travel warnings and any other topical information that may be issued regarding the country you plan to visit. Wherever you travel, be prepared for an interview by customs when reentering the United States. When traveling with jewelry, customs has the right to ask for supporting documentation that proves you purchased the items while in the U.S. and not on foreign soil. Because of this, it’s wise to carry one of the following items with you on your trip: a sales receipt, an appraisal certificate, proof of existing insurance, or a prepared Certificate of Registration for Personal Effects Taken Abroad (known as CBP Form 4457). Links to the appropriate forms for both STEP and the Certificate of Registration can be found at The Miller Group website, at millercares.com/category/private-risk-management/. Taxes for jewelry vary greatly when purchased overseas By providing proof of ownership prior to traveling, you can avoid paying a duty on the item(s) upon reentering the U.S. The provision in the Harmonized Tariff Schedule (HTS) allows American-made products to return to the U.S. without duty requirements. However, the provision stipulates the good’s value cannot have been advanced, nor the condition improved while abroad. In other words, if an item was repaired or upgraded, duty could be owed on either the fair market value of the labor or the item itself as it has been changed. A simple example of this would be taking raw gold to India and having it made into a jewelry piece by a local craftsman. The gold

cannot be re-entered into the U.S. free of charge, nor is the value of the gold deductible from the value of the finished piece of jewelry. To claim goods under this provision, proof of U.S. origin is required (such as a country of origin marking or a certificate of origin from the manufacturer). If you plan to purchase jewelry abroad, loose diamonds — both rough and polished — are currently free of duty upon importation into the U.S. On the other hand, finished jewelry containing polished diamonds is subject to a duty rate ranging from 5 to 5.8 percent, unless the shipment qualifies as duty-free, pursuant to Free Trade Agreements. The U.S. currently has Free Trade Agreements with 20 countries, including Australia, Canada, Israel, Mexico and Singapore. A complete list is available at ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements. With a dose of caution and some pre-vacation planning, you and your jewelry are sure to have a great trip.

Amber Manning is Vice President of The Miller Group, one of the top brokerage firms in the

Amber Manning

Midwest offering a comprehensive array of products and services, including Commercial Insurance; Employee Benefits; HR Consulting; Surety Bonds; Safety & Loss Prevention and Business and Private Risk Management. Manning is the division leader for Private Risk Management. Manning earned an art history and sociology degree from Loyola University, Chicago and is a Kansas City native. Community involvement includes participation with the KC Symphony Business Council, the DeLaSalle Education Center and board member at the Central Exchange.

Make Bedtime

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Ruthie and Harold still making magic after all these years.

Guilloche CiselĂŠ The deep matte surface in anthracite grey combined with the shimmering engraved Herringbone pattern creates a unique and very pleasant feel. The highly polished rhodium-plated cap, end piece and grip contrast beautifully with the engraved barrel.

Spring Trends 2013

Art Deco

HOTEL PHILLIPS

TIVOL Collection 18K white gold diamond and pink sapphire earrings $10,800

Stardust 18K white gold cufflinks with diamonds and rubies $12,850

LAGOS sterling silver necklace with black spinel, 18K yellow gold and diamonds $2,190

Art Deco is an influential visual arts design style that first appeared in France during the 1920s and flourished internationally during the ‘30s and ‘40s. It is an eclectic style that combines traditional craft motifs with Machine Age imagery and materials. The style is often characterized by rich colors, bold geometric shapes and lavish ornamentation.

Carelle 18K white gold London blue topaz ring with diamonds $4,900

Roberto Demeglio black ceramic bracelet with 18K rose gold and diamonds $3,145

TIVOL Collection 18K yellow gold ring with golden South Sea pearl and diamonds $6,595

nature inspired

BIRD’S BOTANICALS

Brumani 18K yellow gold ring with aquamarine, brown diamonds and pink tourmaline $10,675

TIVOL Collection 18K rose gold crab cufflinks with pink mother-of-pearl and diamonds $1,995

H. Stern 18K rose gold diamond leaf ring $5,800

Having reached the limits of nature’s tolerance, we are finally looking for ways of living on this planet without harming it and a new way of viewing and valuing nature. Designers are searching for sustainable solutions by emulating nature’s time-tested patterns and strategies.

Aaron Basha 18K white gold multi-color enamel butterfly with diamonds, or pink enamel butterfly charm with diamonds $1,400 / $3,650

TIVOL Collection 18K rose gold snail pin with a yellow freshwater pearl and orange sapphires $4,500

David Yurman sterling silver wave cufflinks with black diamonds $2,200

vintage traditional

MISSION ROAD ANTIQUE MALL

Rahaminov 18K rose gold necklace with rose cut pinkish brown diamond surrounded by diamonds $39,600

TIVOL Collection 18K white gold South Sea pearl and diamond necklace $39,000

Design in vintage style reects tendencies, characters and other characteristic events of the past. It conveys a strong emotional response, as its visual elements belong to a larger human story; one that evokes feelings of nostalgia and commitment to an era long past.

TIVOL Collection 18K white gold blue sapphire and diamond bracelet $17,280

TIVOL Collection 18K yellow gold Padparadscha sapphire and diamond ring $18,995

Penny Preville 18K yellow gold diamond ower earrings $9,175

minimalist

David Yurman black titanium men’s band with sterling silver cable $450

Kwiat 18K white gold diamond hoop necklace $7,400

TIVOL Collection 18K yellow gold pink tourmaline ring $1,625

Minimal art is characterized by its simplicity in both form and content, where personal expression is removed in order to allow the audience to view a composition more intensely because distractions of theme have been removed.

Rahaminov 18K rose gold bangle bracelet with diamonds $27,500

Jack Kelege 18K white gold and diamond earrings $13,000

Stephen Webster sterling silver gray coral bead men’s bracelet $250

shabby chic

Alex Sepkus green and pink tourmaline 6-strand bracelet with 18K yellow gold clasp $8,975

TIVOL Collection smoky quartz bead necklace and 18K yellow gold pendant with vivid orange ďŹ re opal and cognac diamonds $25,695

David Yurman sterling silver oval saddle ring with diamonds $725

Shabby chic is a form of design where the appearance of an item suggests the feeling of being antique. At the same time, more sophisticated, fresh designs are emphasized, which differentiates the item from being a genuine period piece.

Stephen Webster 18K yellow gold ring with quartz over red coral and diamonds $8,300

Marco Bicego 18K yellow gold multi-color sapphire bracelet $10,750

H. Stern 18K yellow gold spiral earrings with briolette diamond $4,900

PROFILE

all in the

family When considering the Tivol family, one’s mind usually goes to Charles, Harold, Cathy or Hunter — but as the Switliks demonstrate, the company’s family history sometimes goes beyond the “T” word.

TIVOL is well known in the community as a family business, but not everyone realizes it has a tradition of employing family that goes beyond the Tivol name itself. Over the years there have been several examples of this throughout the company, with combinations of mother and son, mother and daughter, mother-in-law and daughter-in-law and beyond — but perhaps none so closely linked to TIVOL’s recent history as Patrick Switlik Sr. and Patrick Switlik Jr. Both father and son have served as jewelers for the company since Switlik Sr. began at TIVOL in 1970. Around age 13, Switlik Sr. would bring his son to work with him to help separate scrap gold. Today, Switlik Jr. admits the work wasn’t that fun — he confesses that the first hour was enjoyable, but after that he wanted to go home. Yet those experiences gave him an overall positive impression of the field. It took him a few years before he inherited his father’s passion for the industry. As a family, the Switliks enjoyed fixing and repairing things around the house as a hobby. In the few years that followed his gold-sorting days, Switlik Jr. was able to transition his household hobbies into repairing (and creating) jewelry. After discovering how much he enjoyed the work, his fate was sealed. “I was 17 when I officially began at TIVOL,” Switlik Jr. says. “My parents asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up, and I said ‘a jeweler.’ Two weeks later, my father came home and said I had a part-time job. That was the summer after my junior year of high school. After graduating, I began full time and I’ve been here ever since.”

Amazingly, Switlik Jr.’s love for the jewelry industry did not come solely from his father. “My grandfather was a jeweler — he worked for Macy’s — and my great-uncle used to own a jewelry store.” In addition, out of his eight siblings, Switlik Jr.’s sister, Theresa, also works as a jeweler at a local retail store. In his time at TIVOL, Switlik Jr. has witnessed many changes, but he also gives a nod to the strong sense of continuity that the company has provided over the years. “In the past 37 years, the only major changes have been the use of modern equipment like laser welders and torches, but the fundamentals are much still the same — and in some cases I use the very same tools that once belonged to my grandfather.” For Switlik Jr., that doesn’t mean the work is boring, however. He remembers significant TIVOL events that have impacted his life, such as the Plaza flood of 1977 that virtually destroyed the store’s interior. He also remembers several jobs that have been particularly fun or noteworthy. “I do a lot of work for TV personalities, athletes and celebrities,” Switlik Jr. says. “There was one well-known celebrity whose husband purchased her a jewelry box without a key. He brought it into the store to see if I could get it open — and after picking the lock, I was able to.” Switlik Jr. says it is that type of service that makes TIVOL a special place to work. “We go the extra mile with customers and their repairs,” he says. “We want things to be as perfect as possible so that our customers always have the TIVOL experience.” In 1990, Switlik Sr. retired from the bench, leaving Switlik Jr. to carry on his family’s name at TIVOL. In 40 years, the store’s appearance has changed, staff has come and gone, and jewelry trends have evolved. But during that time, there has always been a man named Patrick Switlik diligently working at the jewelry bench. There is an additional tradition that Switlik Jr. continues as well. He keeps a drawer in his bench full of candy for his co-workers. For bits of kindness like this, for his wisdom, and for his stoic, hardworking demeanor, Switlik Jr. is a beloved and integral part of the TIVOL family.

Diamonds are forever. Your bank can be too. Tivol knows the value of something that stands the test of time. At UMB, we do too. We’ve been around for 100 years, and we’re doing what it takes to be here for the next 100. Welcome to the past, present and future of banking.

Bank + Invest + Plan + Protect

COVER STORY

the

american

launch of the style

Jo l i e of

The Style of Jolie 18K rose gold rectangular Colombian emerald bracelet

T

his spring, TIVOL becomes the first American retailer to launch The Style of Jolie — a collection of important jewelry from the creative minds of designer Robert Procop and Oscar-winner Angelina Jolie. The designs are timeless, featuring elegant and refined lines that would be just as fashionable on a red carpet in 1940 as they are in 2013. Procop’s experience in the jewelry industry is vast. He opened the retail location of Diamonds on Rodeo in Beverly Hills while he was still completing the final year of his undergraduate studies. From there, his reputation quickly grew as he began creating unique jewelry for Hollywood elite and secured a commission from then-President Ronald Reagan. (Procop has been commissioned by nearly every President since then.) Other celebrity clients include Robert Downey, Jr., Merve Griffin, Tom Cruise and Sylvester Stallone.

Procop’s career momentum brought him to the attention of Her Majesty the Queen, who appointed him as a curator and expert evaluator for the royal jewels — a collection that included Princess Diana’s sapphire ring, which would later serve as Kate Middleton’s engagement ring from Prince William. Despite Procop’s qualifications and impressive accomplishments, perhaps it was his recent high-profile project that truly catapulted him into the spotlight. While working alongside actor Brad Pitt for about one year, Procop created Jolie’s engagement ring. “Brad and Angelina are a very romantic couple; they’re always surprising each other with gifts,” Procop says. “I’ve been very low-key with my work my whole life. I never share who I sell to. But then the engagement ring was the one that caught the public’s attention.”

18K rose gold cushion cut Colombian emerald necklace

18K rose gold cushion cut Colombian emerald ring

18K rose gold cushion cut Colombian emerald earrings

Developing The Style of Jolie was a natural progression, as Procop had tailored gifts and on-camera jewels for both Jolie and Pitt for more than a decade. Having met at the Oscars in 2000, Procop and Jolie shared a love of jewelry, which was the basis for a lasting friendship and working relationship. The connection led to them working together on Jolie’s film The Tourist, for which Procop sourced and designed the jewelry. Today, with Jolie serving as the muse and co-creator of the collection, The Style of Jolie donates 100 percent of its profits to The Partnership for Children in Conflict — and the proceeds have already built two schools in Afghanistan. “All proceeds from sales will go to Angelina’s charity, which benefits children in need around the world. It changes thousands of lives, and that’s something that’s very important to us both,” Procop says. Procop’s high ethical standards also extend to the source, as he exclusively trades with members of the Kimberley Process. Their agreement ensures that diamonds purchased from a given region are ethically mined and will not in any way be used to fund any activity that perpetuates human rights abuses.

It is the joy of locating these large gems, from emeralds to no-heat sapphires — and then crafting a magnificent setting around the gem — that fuels Procop’s passion. His knowledge, talent for gem sourcing and design ability has also resulted in the much-anticipated launch of Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels. This esteemed finished jewelry collection has recently been placed with a few hand-selected retailers (including TIVOL in October 2012). Every gemstone is held in an expertly handcrafted gold or platinum setting to exact specifications, resulting in exquisite and future heirlooms. While the fundamental construct of Robert Procop Exceptional Jewels and The Style of Jolie are similar in their ethical practices, according to Procop, The Style of Jolie is all about Angelina. “The collection [The Style of Jolie] is very chic and very clean,” Procop says. “It includes her favorite colors: green, black and yellow. It’s very graceful and pure. The colors and the shapes are bold but classic. Angelina likes to dress in a monochromatic way. If she’s wearing a green dress, she’ll wear green jewels, for example — and the collection reflects this.”

BRIDAL TIVOL Collection platinum and diamond engagement ring / $10,075 and band / $2,495

here comes the bride

TIVOL Collection platinum ring with an oval diamond and satin finish shank / $3,450

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r descriptions

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With spring and summer upon us, wedding season is in full swing. Whether he’s popped the question or is about to, TIVOL has an array of engagement rings and wedding bands perfect for each unique couple. The new TIVOL Collection rings (upper left) are important looking yet classic — and while they are made with the highest quality standards, their approachable prices will please you. But options abound — as you will witness in the following pages — and they certainly don’t end in this magazine. Visit a TIVOL store to find the perfect representation of your love, or speak to a TIVOL associate about customizing a ring to meet your own precise specifications. Feeling digital? Visit TIVOL.com to browse our online collection of Engagement & Wedding rings, or make the ultimate personal statement by using our web-based Design Your Own system.

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See page 40 for descriptions

Page 38 1. Henri Daussi 14K white and yellow gold band with yellow princess cut diamonds, flanked by pavé diamond rails / $25,330 2. Jack Kelége platinum five-row diamond band / $20,350 3. Rahaminov 18K yellow gold ring with an intense yellow radiant cut diamond surrounded by pavé diamonds / $54,130 4. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold three-band rolling ring with diamonds / $6,380

10. Kwiat 18K white gold open woven ring set with round brilliant cut diamonds / $7,300 11. Jack Kelége platinum diamond ring with a cushion cut diamond / $18,545 Page 39 12. Harry Kotlar platinum and 18K rose gold Luca ring with a cushion cut diamond and pavé diamonds / $32,195 13. Penny Preville 18K rose gold ring with a threerow tapering diamond band / $5,340 14. Precision Set platinum diamond band / $4,180

Page 40 (pictured below) 20. TIVOL Collection platinum band with rubies and diamonds / $4,095 21. Norman Silverman platinum ring with pear shape diamond, two-row diamond bezel and tworow diamond split shank / $9,690 22. Precision Set platinum diamond eternity band / $3,520 23. Harry Kotlar platinum ring with round brilliant cut diamond and two-row split diamond shank / $44,700

5. Michael Bondanza platinum ring set with an oval diamond / $60,060

15. Henri Daussi 18K white gold diamond ring with cushion cut diamond / $11,485

24. Penny Preville 18K yellow gold open leaf band with diamonds / $2,695

6. Michael Bondanza platinum ring with round brilliant cut diamond / $36,055

16. TIVOL Collection platinum diamond and blue sapphire band / $2,490

25. Rahaminov platinum three-stone emerald cut diamond ring / $37,100

7. Harry Kotlar platinum and 18K yellow gold ring with an intense yellow cushion cut diamond and diamond shank / $55,100

17. TIVOL Collection platinum diamond eternity band / $7,215

26. TIVOL Collection 18K white gold diamond and blue sapphire eternity band / $1,895

18. Precision Set platinum solitaire ring with a princess cut diamond / $8,180

27. Penny Preville platinum diamond Penelope ring with a cushion cut diamond / $10,435

8. Precision Set platinum diamond eternity band / $3,520 9. Henri Daussi 18K rose gold two-row diamond band / $1,870

19. Norman Silverman 18K white gold ring with center marquise and pavé set diamonds on bezel and shank / $3,515

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Two Stores, A Thousand Stories

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individual runs up the driveway, and attracts about 150,000 spectators from around the world. Then in the fall, Lord March presents a spectacular vintage race held at the Goodwood Motor Racing Circuit, built in 1948 by his grandfather just a mile or so from Goodwood House. In its glory days (the 1950s through 1966), this circuit hosted Formula 1 races and other toplevel events that rivaled the best in the world. Today, all who attend the reunion come dressed in period clothing. In the U.S., Classic Car Week in Monterey, California takes center stage every August. Dinners, auctions, car shows, lawn parties and other exclusive events keep auto enthusiasts remarkably busy all week. At nearby Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca, some of the most extraordinary vintage racing is held from Friday through Sunday at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion. Perfectly restored racecars from around the world compete in full fields, using modern timing and scoring techniques. Split-second accuracy determines grid positions, and drivers fight to shed every possible second from their time charts. On the 18th green at nearby Pebble Beach on the final day of Classic Car Week, the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance draws the most remarkable cars and the most knowledgeable attendees to these celebrated grounds. The contrast between the racecars and show cars is significant: In racing, time is everything; in showing cars it’s inconsequential. In both instances, however, winners at Monterey are presented with iconic Rolex timepieces.

“NATURALLY, RACECAR DRIVERS WEAR THE MOST ADVANCED, BEAUTIFUL AND PRECISE TIMEPIECES ON THE MARKET.”

PERFECT

TIMING

In motor racing as in timepieces, precision is everything. DAVID A. ROSE

TOP: ROLEX/TOM O’NEIL. BOTTOM: ROLEX/JAD SHERIF

CARS

I

t was a tough qualifying session. Lap after lap I pushed myself to the max, knowing it meant the difference between starting on the pole position (where there’s an advantage going into the first turn) or starting on the outside of the front row (where chances of taking the lead at the start are slim). As I took off alongside the other 35 cars in the field, I was confident I could win the pole, especially since my pit crew had written a large #1 on my pit board. But as I came into the pits, I could tell by the look on their faces that this was not to be: I had lost pole position by only 5/100ths of a second. Motor racing is a sport where time can be your best friend or your worst enemy. At the Rolex 24 at Daytona or at Le Mans, two cars can finish just seconds apart after 24 hours of racing. Pit Stops in Formula 1 are lightning fast: a car can have four tires changed in under three seconds. The drivers of these cars are in constant radio contact with their crew members, who report competitors’ timing and scoring figures; race strategy can change several times based on these reports. While both motor racing and timepieces involve speed and precise mechanics, the fashionable gatherings of classic and vintage cars at Concours d’Elegance events involve neither. In fact, these extraordinary vehicles are presented stationary. Perhaps the longest running of these events is the Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este, which has been held on the shores of Lake Como, Italy since 1929. At events like this, classic and vintage cars are scored on the basis of perfection. It may be a static display, but the value of these glorious cars can reach or even exceed that of some thoroughbred racecars. In England, The Goodwood Festival of Speed is held each summer at Lord March’s estate in West Sussex. This event combines static display with

42

A beautiful D-03 1913 Mercer Model 35 J Raceabout Ray Scherr lines up for the start of the Pebble Beach Tour d’Elegance, presented by Rolex.

PERFECTGEMS EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER.

A STROLL THROUGH HOTEL LA MAMOUNIA

Marrakech has a fascinating history, exotic markets, exciting nightlife and a delightfully opulent hotel. La Mamounia, a former palace celebrated for its mixture of traditional Moroccan and modern French styles, offers intriguing experiences from great art to ice cream. Take a walk through the reception room, lobby and tearoom, where Moroccan paintings and statues inspire. Stop at the Italian Bar to view the latest photography exhibition while sipping a Le Grand Dame Champagne cocktail made with citrus essence. Next, wander outside into the serene 17-acre garden filled with olive and citrus trees, magnificent roses and an extensive kitchen garden (you might chat with the chef as he gathers vegetables for dinner). At the center of the garden is Le Menzeh, an ice cream pavilion that offers pastries and freshly made ice creams. Finally, to recover from your exertions, complete your tour with a Royal Hammam treatment at the lavish spa.

THE NIGHT SPOT

It’s no secret that Broadway singers and actors hate when the curtain comes down and they have to leave the stage. So on Tuesday nights, after the shows are out, performers and the fans who love them gather for Backstage at 54 Below (located in the basement of legendary Studio 54) to keep the music and jokes going over drinks and supper. Led by musical director Brad Simmons and host Susie Mosher, gypsies, Broadway and cabaret stars (and occasionally an audience member) sing or do their routines in this intimate and fashionable 144-seat space created by Tony-winning set designers. The wine list and food are good, the service excellent, the crowd always fun. And you never know who might turn up to perform. End your evening on a high note.

44

BOTTOM LEFT MARC BRYAN-BROWN

CHRIS LEE

DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

SPIRIT OF THE PAST

ALEX R. KIRZHNER

Built in 1228 by the Anglo-Norman de Burgos family, Ashford Castle is set on 350 acres with a spectacular backdrop of Irish woodlands, lake and mountains. Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness purchased the estate in 1855 as the family’s country residence. Since becoming a hotel in 1939, the castle has welcomed dignitaries and celebrities including Prince Edward, King George V, Ted Kennedy, Sharon Stone, Brad Pitt and Barbra Streisand. The castle offers contemporary comforts and conveniences, but naturally, oldworld traditions still thrive. There’s Ireland’s first school of falconry, a decanter of sherry in each room, and tea served in the drawing room. And in keeping with conventional castle ambiance, there’s also a ghost, reportedly from the 19th century when the Guinnesses were in residence. Not to worry: guests who’ve seen the young female apparition say she’s friendly.

LIGHT FOOTED

This spring, let your feet shine with bright bejeweled footwear by Ivy Kirzhner, featuring cloisonné metal work and exotic leathers. The 2013 collection includes the Ark, a dress wedge with crystals and snake leather inlays on an 18K gold-plated heel. The Taj Mahal gladiator sandal features gold silk metallic leather with crystals. Nefertiti is an ornamental high wedge with 18K gold-plated hardware and hand-enameled cloisonné treatment. Pictured above are the Montezuma Deco-bejeweled slippers in royal blue and hot coral kid suede and gold silk metallic, and the Tresor, a Deco ballet flat in gold silk metallic and opal, both with crystals on an 18K goldplated hardware ornament. Step into a brilliant summer.

CONCERT GRAND

Steinway Lyngdorf is a collaboration between Steinway & Sons, makers of the world’s finest pianos, and audio innovator Peter Lyngdorf. Their speaker systems range from the invisible to the compact to the giant. Currently, the state-of-theart choice is the Model LS Concert. Combined with the SP-1 Stereo Processor or P-1 Surround Sound Processor and Steinway Lyngdorf’s fully digital amplifiers, it’s perfect for luxurious home theaters. The open-baffle design makes the speaker interact with the room much as a musical instrument would, resulting in extremely open and life-like musicality. There’s also a remarkable remote that weighs nearly 2.2 pounds, with a rotating wheel crafted from solid, gold-plated brass and mounted on precision-machined Swiss bearings, providing intuitive and total command of the system.

46

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SPOTLIGHT

WRITTEN

INTO HISTORY Like its extraordinary writing implements, the Faber-Castell family stands the test of time. JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

T

his year Faber-Castell celebrates 252 years in business, making it one of the oldest continually operating companies in the world. The leading manufacturer of wood-cased pencils, it also makes a variety of other writing instruments and luxury cosmetic pencils for some of the world’s top makeup brands. To tell the fascinating story of Faber-Castell one must begin with Kaspar Faber, who lived from 1730 to 1784 in a small village outside Nuremberg, Germany. A cabinet maker by trade, he had a side business producing pencils, which he sold from a basket in the village market. Its success soon made pencil-making the family’s primary business, and Kaspar’s son Anton Wilhelm took it over upon his death. Remarkably, the site Anton Wilhelm acquired on the outskirts of Stein to build his first workshop still remains today as global headquarters of the A.W. Faber-Castell Company. Each subsequent generation grew the company and its product line (inks, writing slates, slide rules, etc.), and in 1849, Lothar von Faber became the first to expand beyond the borders of Germany. He set up foreign subsidiaries first in New York, and then in Vienna, London, St. Petersburg and Paris. In 1870, A.W. Faber became the fifth entry in the U.S. Trademark Register, and today bears the distinction of being the oldest active registered trademark in existence. Now a roughly €600 million business, Faber-Castell employs 7,000 people in 100 countries around the globe. As if surviving (and growing) for more than a quarter millennium isn’t enough of an achievement, Faber-Castell is also credited with helping pass the first trademark laws to protect brand name products; inventing the hexagonal pencil shape; founding Germany’s first life insurance

company in 1884, still in existence today; and being the drawing tool of choice for artists including Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Klee and cartoonist Carl Barks. One thing that hasn’t changed over Faber-Castell’s long and storied history is its serious commitment to making the world’s highestquality writing implements, and its motto of “doing ordinary things extraordinarily well.” The eighth generation is currently at the helm, led by Count Anton Wolfgang von Faber-Castell. His wife, Countess Mary, serves as managing director of FC Cosmetics, a division for which they both have a special affinity. (The two met when Faber-Castell began making cosmetic pencils for Chanel, where Mary was director of marketing.) The couple’s four children, Count Charles and Countesses Sarah, Katharina and Victoria, are currently studying international business, law and marketing in preparation for their futures within the company. A notable highlight is the company’s pen of the year, of which only 10 are produced annually; the design for 2012 featured 58 diamonds in 18K yellow gold, along with a $90,000 price tag. Among the more attainable — but still exquisite — offerings is the E-Motion collection of ballpoint pens, like the ivory resin version pictured above. Its body will fit comfortably in your hand, while its laser-etched crocodile pattern will surely make you the envy of other pen connoisseurs. We are proud to offer Faber-Castell products, and to support a family business dedicated to upholding tradtions much like our own.

“THE POINT IS NOT TO CLING TO TRADITION FOR ITS OWN SAKE, BUT TO PRESERVE IT, IN KEEPING WITH THE TIMES, AS A SUCCESSFUL SYSTEM OF VALUES.” –COUNT ANTON WOLFGANG VON FABER-CASTELL

Left: The Faber-Castell Castle in Stein, Germany.

48

DESIGN

TELLING

STORIES

Nate Berkus discusses his new book, The Things That Matter. BETHANY RABORN

D

esigner, film producer, author and TV personality Nate Berkus has made a career out of taking interior design beyond paint colors and fabric swatches. His latest book, The Things That Matter (Spiegel & Grau, 2012), gets to the heart of design in a way that has you simultaneously poring over the vibrant pages and setting it down to rearrange your living room. Here, we chat with Berkus about the book, his own home décor, and more. Your new book focuses on design as a personal statement. Was there a point where you realized design was not just about making things pretty? I realized that very early on. My mom is an interior designer, so “home” was more about a well-designed room than a home-cooked meal. That was her way of saying she cared about her family. Things were not expensive, but they were beautiful. It was ingrained in me that assembling interiors was not something to be rushed. You talk about incorporating things from your travels into your décor. How does one avoid a room full of kitschy souvenirs? I do a lot of research before I travel. I talk to the concierge at the hotel, I talk

to a friend who’s gone there before, to really get the best sources for everything. I have a deep knowledge of furniture creators and modern art, but one thing that is always important to me is the element of the handmade, whether it’s a Navajo basket on a coffee table or a South American belt on a pile of books. I look for the best silversmith in Portugal, the best textiles in Asia or ceramics in Mexico. I look for what’s indigenous, what’s historic and traditional. When you walk into someone’s home, what stands out as “good” or “bad” design? What makes me happy is walking in to see different styles all combined. That may be a Swedish dresser, a French mirror and a Native American rug in one room. I think it makes a room feel layered, like it was assembled over time. I love when someone takes a risk. I may not love what they did, but I am taken in when I see someone is adventurous. Conversely, what bugs me is when everything is of the same quality or out of one catalog. You can tell when someone spent a great fortune, but you don’t know anything about that person except that they’re rich. In the book, you discuss designing your own home in NYC. How was the process different than designing for other people? In a designer’s own home, he is answering only to himself, so he can take more risks. I like to let things find me, whereas with clients you don’t have the luxury of buying things haphazardly. For my home, I started to feel like I didn’t have roots; I wanted to assemble everything in one space, under one roof. Over 570 boxes were delivered to that home and as I went through all of them, I started to understand my own connection to things. I had to decide what to keep, where to put it, what it went with. The editing process is the most important part. Even if there is something you love, if there’s no place for you to display it and enjoy it and have it add to the graciousness of your home, then it should be edited out. What did you learn from writing the book? I didn’t set out to write an autobiography, rather I wanted the book to be about how I approach design. I hope people recognize that we each have a story, which is why I shared my own in the book. Everyone I’ve known, everywhere I’ve been, everything I’ve done has influenced my style. I hope people will stop, take a beat, and decide for themselves what really serves them in the home and what doesn’t. Only then can someone achieve an interior that truly reflects their personality. What’s next for Nate Berkus? My Chicago design firm is constantly undertaking new projects. I am excited about my collaboration with Target, and hope people find a few things from my line to add to their décor. I’m producing a second feature film that I’m really excited about. I love books so much, and after producing The Help, I wanted to find another project where I could make a beloved book into a film. We need more of that.

50

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ACCENT MAGAZINE SPECIAL SECTION SPRING/SUMMER 2013

GETTY 1

WATCHES

FOCUS: ADVISOR

WATCH WISDOM

TIME TO ANSWER YOUR PRESSING QUESTIONS.

IS IT NECESSARY TO SERVICE MY WATCH IF I’M NOT HAVING PROBLEMS WITH IT? All watches need maintenance. The extent of the service required depends on the particular timepiece, its movement and its age. Generally, quartz watches need battery replacements every two to three years. Mechanical watches, much like automobiles, need regular servicing. The inner movements of the mechanical watch are lightly lubricated to reduce friction between the parts and ensure accuracy and reliability. Deterioration of the lubricants occurs over time and results in higher friction, increasing wear and tear and decreasing precision. A mechanical watch should be serviced every three to five years. Watches should always be taken to an authorized retailer to be properly serviced. If the wrong gaskets, batteries or parts are used, it can result in more expensive repairs down the line. Even quartz watches, after a simple battery change, have to be properly sealed and closed to ensure their water resistance.

IS A WATCH A GOOD INVESTMENT? Many people buy a watch because they love the individual statement the piece makes about them. However, in today’s economy, people also want to know that the watch they’re buying will hold its value over time, and maybe even go up in value. Most top-name watches will hold their value and some can even become heirloom pieces over the coming generations. If you’re looking to start building a watch collection, invest in different styles of watches appropriate for different situations, and do your homework regarding the most coveted brands. Special or limited-edition watches are almost always a good investment in the long term. Don’t be afraid to ask questions; our knowledgeable watch experts are here to give you guidance.

54

FOCUS: ADVISOR

WHAT ARE THE CURRENT WATCH TRENDS? One of the most important trends in the watch market today is definitely the proliferation of dual-, triple-, and multi-time zone watches. For today’s global business person, or any busy traveler, having alternate time zones readily available at the flick of the wrist is almost essential. These timepieces come in a wealth of styles and in an array of price ranges, offering design and technology options for men and women. Chronographs also steal the limelight with their form-meets-function attitude. A chronograph is a watch that times multiple events, and it can be a very useful tool. Another important trend today is the move toward new timepieces for women. These include mechanical and quartz watches that offer sophisticated features and functions, like elegant moonphase indications, chronograph counters and calendars.

I HEAR PEOPLE TALK ABOUT “COMPLICATED” WATCHES; WHAT DOES THIS MEAN (AND ISN’T LIFE COMPLICATED ENOUGH)? The term complicated refers to timepieces with certain functions or features that are considered top feats of watchmaking. The most coveted complications vary depending on personal taste and watchmaking progress. Among the top categories today are tourbillon watches (expensive, complex mechanical calibers that house an escapement, which compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity), repeater watches that chime the time on demand via a series of gongs and hammers, and perpetual calendar watches that can track the day, date, month, year and leap year (and sometimes moonphases and more) for hundreds of years to come. Some of the world’s finest complicated watches can have waiting lists, but please stop in anyway — we’re happy to show you some fabulous timepieces whether or not you plan to buy.

WHAT NEW MATERIALS ARE BEING USED IN WATCHMAKING? As watchmakers progress in their quests for innovation, they naturally turn to other fields, such as the space and automotive industries, to see what these state-of-the-art worlds are utilizing. This has led to a wealth of new lightweight, rugged, hypoallergenic materials being incorporated into wristwatch cases, dials and straps. Among the more interesting materials being used: high-tech ceramic, carbon fiber, aluminum, titanium and alloys of various elements. These are great new introductions that are well worth checking out the next time you visit the store.

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Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 18K white gold $76,900

2013 watch trends

Platinum Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date II $62,500

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 976 in stainless steel with black alligator strap $7,800

Patek Philippe 18K white gold Annual Calendar with dark brown alligator strap $44,400

distinction

Baume & Mercier Linea stainless steel, mother-of-pearl diamond dial with a red strap $2,800 (watch)

TW Steel blackened stainless steel CEO Canteen with black and orange dial $525

Michele Deco Day Diamond stainless steel chronograph with a yellow strap $1,545

$190 (strap)

color

military Bell & Ross green ceramic Aviation with a green rubber strap

TW Steel stainless steel Canteen with a brown leather strap

Panerai Radiomir Black Seal black ceramic with a black leather strap

$4,500

$375

$9,600

Patek Philippe Calatrava with 18K rose gold and diamonds $30,800

David Yurman Classic stainless steel with diamonds $6,200

Cartier Tank Anglaise with 18K pink gold and diamonds $32,900

gem addict

mechanics

Tag Heuer Calibre 12 Monaco Chronograph stainless steel blue dial with a blue alligator strap $6,300

Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire 18K rose gold watch with a brown strap $38,600

Baume & Mercier XXL Capeland Flyback Chronograph in stainless steel $7,500

FOCUS: PROFILE

by Robert Haynes-Peterson

THE STRONGEST LINK

O

TAG HEUER DOES WELL BY DOING GOOD. Natural Resources Defense Council — was in town filming The Wolf of Wall Street. He bounded on stage to join Diaz and Babin, showering high praise on the brand. "It's incredible to work with a company that cares so much, and gives so much. That kind of dedication to service is important to me, and it's reflected in everything TAG Heuer does." The Link Lady Trilogy Limited Edition set and Leonardo DiCaprio Link Automatic Chronograph Calibre 16 watch are in stores now. TAG Heuer fans can also enjoy a technological breakthrough this year: the TAG Heuer Mikrogirder. The innovative regulator, which TAG Heuer claims challenges the 300-year heritage of hairspring/balance wheel mechanical regulation, allows the company to present a highly accurate chronograph, impervious to gravity, with minimal isochronous error. Winner of the 2012 Aiguille d'Or — the top prize in all categories at the Geneva Watchmaking Gran Prix — the Mikrogirder Chronograph replaces the spiral hairspring and classic balance wheel with a coupling beam and excitatory beam system, paired with a linear oscillator. The technology allows the chronograph accuracy to 5/10,000 of a second, beating 7.2 million times each hour. The design features a anthracite dial and rubber strap, with assymetric case.

nly a couple of weeks after Hurricane Sandy, when much of lower Manhattan, Brooklyn and New Jersey were still plunged in darkness, TAG Heuer went ahead with its plans for the Manhattan launch party of its latest Link collection, the Link Lady Trilogy Limited Edition. Created in conjunction with brand ambassador Cameron Diaz, who attended the event, the Trilogy collection (a limited-edition steel ring, bracelet and watch trio featuring the first automatic watch in the Link Lady line) was already slated to do good: Profits are dedicated to support UN Women, an organization that advocates for women's rights around the world. In the wake of Sandy's destructive force, however, the watch company knew it must do more. "Our hearts and prayers go out to the victims of Hurricane Sandy," TAG Heuer president and CEO Jean-Christophe Babin told the crowd of 500 or so, many of whom had flown in from Europe for the event. "We decided it was important to help New York Cares with their relief efforts, and we are donating $100 for every guest who is here." As it happened, actor Leonardo DiCaprio — another TAG Heuer brand ambassador, whose new Signature Link Calibre 16 Chronograph (with blue dial) will raise funds for Green Cross International and the

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CSX-33 DIAMOND, DIAMOND DIAL CSX-33 DIAMOND GOLD, DIAMOND DIAL

NEW TIMEPIECES

As TW Steel’s new Color Canteen Fashion Collection not-so-subtly suggests, color is the hottest trend for 2013. Each of these Swiss timepieces makes a fun, personal statement while not breaking the bank.

TW Steel 45mm brushed stainless steel case, quartz movement with 3-hand dial, on a blue, green, red, purple, yellow or turquoise silicon strap, water resistant to 100m $350

EATS

1

JOYCE N. BOGHOSIAN

FOOD

FOR THOUGHT Reimagining the kitchen garden. JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

O

nce upon a time, everyone who could grew vegetables in their own “kitchen” garden, to have easy access to good, nutritious food and to supplement what they could purchase. Unfortunately, as a civilization, we’ve moved far away from the land, and most people now get their fruits and vegetables from giant chain supermarkets. Most of these fruits and veggies come from industrial-sized farms, ripen in the transport truck — instead of in the sun — and have practically no taste and very little nutritional value by the time we purchase them in plastic-wrapped packages.

2

STARTING A DELICIOUS REVOLUTION The good news: a group of passionate and dedicated food “activists” has launched the

Good Food Movement. The overall goal is to get Americans to eat healthier by relying more on locally grown produce with higher nutritional value, all while reducing our global carbon footprint. In addition, there’s an emphasis on improving children’s diets, specifically in lowincome areas. Because while the number of supermarkets with organic produce sections, local farmers’ markets and locavore (organic food, locally grown) restaurants has increased dramatically, most inner-city children still live in neighborhoods served only by fast-food restaurants and convenience stores. “Many in the movement credit famed chef 1 First Lady Michelle Obama plants a White House kitchen garden with help from horticulturist Dale Haney and Bancroft Elementary School students, March 20, 2009. 2 A public schoolyard is transformed by The Edible Schoolyard Project. 3 Tools at rest. 4 Harvest from Roger Doiron’s (Kitchen Gardeners International) own garden. 5 Famed chef Alice Waters started The Edible Schoolyard Project to teach kids how to grow and cook nutritious food.

4

ROGER DOIRON

3

5

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Alice Waters, of the renowned Berkeley, California restaurant Chez Panisse, with getting the ball rolling,” says Arnell Hinkle, executive director of CANFIT, an organization that helps communities implement healthy-food programs. About 15 years ago, over concern for a local public school, Waters launched The Edible Schoolyard Project. Through kitchen gardens planted on their own public school grounds, students across the country learn how to plant and harvest organic produce. The kids are then taught how to make nutritious meals from what they’ve grown. “We’re calling for a revolution in public education — the ‘Delicious Revolution,’” Waters explains. “When the hearts and minds of our children are captured by a school lunch curriculum enriched with experience in the garden, sustainability will become the lens through which they see the world.” The Good Food Movement got another boost when First Lady Michelle Obama planted a kitchen garden at the White House in 2009. She was inspired to do so by a grassroots advocacy campaign led by Roger Doiron, director of Kitchen Gardeners International. Doiron is a modern-day Pied Piper for the benefits of kitchen gardens. Knowing that when Eleanor Roosevelt planted a “victory” garden at the White House in the 1940s, it inspired 40 percent of the U.S. population to follow suit, he figured Mrs. Obama’s enthusiasm for the cause might have a similar effect. “The commercially grown foods we’re eating today are significantly less nutritious than they were just 30 years ago,” Doiron points out. “What we need are millions of people joining the movement by planting four-season kitchen gardens right in their own back — or front — yards. This produce provides healthy meals for families and any excess can be donated to local food pantries.”

THE IMPORTANCE OF URBAN FARMING As the population explodes and urban areas continue to encroach on farmland, the ability to grow more nutritious food in less space becomes paramount. Will Allen, CEO of Growing Power, is an urban-farming guru, admired and revered by everyone in the Good Food Movement. Allen’s mission is to get nutritious, organic food grown with the smallest environmental impact. Using his methods, Growing Power’s two-acre urban lot in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, produces enough healthy food to feed 10,000 people. Some of these methods include: greenhouses

6 Roger Doiron, Kitchen Gardeners International. 7 On a two-acre lot in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Growing Power produces enough healthy food to feed 10,000 people. 8 No room for a kitchen garden? Set up Windowfarms. 9 vintage Victory Garden poster.

and “hoop” houses (made from plastic sheeting and plywood) that are composted with the richest fertilizer, verimcompost, made from worms (heat generated from the composting process also warms the greenhouses in winter); aquaponics, a symbiotic method of growing certain plants and fish together; and raising crops and animals (bees, chickens, ducks, goats) sustainably, without chemicals. Growing Power not only raises healthy food in a compact urban space, they run extensive programs for inner-city and disadvantaged youths to get them interested in and involved with the process. They also hold workshops and travel around the country training others how to replicate their results. Allen, winner of a Ford Foundation leadership grant, a MacArthur “genius” award, and a spot on Mrs. Obama’s “Let’s Move” team, states: “We have to change where and how food is grown right now, because we are malnourishing ourselves to death. Today, most people live in urban areas, yet many have very limited access to healthy, nutritious food. What’s needed is a Good Food Revolution.”

6

7

GET ON BOARD THE GOOD FOOD REVOLUTION All of these organizations offer advice, classes and workshops. Kitchen Gardeners International can help anyone plant a kitchen garden. If you don’t have the space, find a community garden with help from the American Community Gardening Association. Learn how to get a kitchen garden planted at your local public school through The Edible Schoolyard Project. And, if you want to start or join an urban farming project in your community, attend a Growing Power workshop. As Thomas Jefferson said: “Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens.”

8

Learn More: Good Food Movement Resources ACGA communitygarden.org CANFIT canfit.org Edible Schoolyard Project edibleschoolyard.org Growing Power growingpower.org Kitchen Gardeners International kgi.org Windowfarms windowfarms.com Our Global Kitchen: Food, Nature, Culture exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History, through August 2013

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9

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RECIPES

Dinner

Out TIVOL Magazine followed Cathy Tivol and her husband, Mark Maslan, to some of their favorite places to eat in Kansas City: Rye and Oklahoma Joe’s Barbecue. A self-described foodie, Cathy’s palate is particular but not pretentious, as demonstrated in not one, but two dinners that consisted of fried chicken and then a barbecue beef sandwich with fries. Mark’s short ribs at Rye — then spicy coleslaw and barbecue chicken at Oklahoma Joe’s — looked equally delicious yet decidedly down-home. What we quickly learned is that an evening out with the Maslans is anything but boring...and certainly not low calorie.

“If Mark and I get a craving for fried chicken, we go to Rye. They’ve perfected it.” — Cathy Tivol

Cathy’s Smoked Salmon Tartare Appetizer on Toast Points Serves 4-6 1/2 cup diced good quality smoked salmon 2 tsp. small diced red onion 3 tsp. capers 2 tsp. lemon juice 4 tsp. olive oil fresh ground pepper 4 tbsp. sour cream 2 tsp. chopped fresh dill 12-16 toast points Fresh dill sprigs and lemon slices for garnish In a small bowl, combine sour cream, onion, capers, olive oil and lemon juice and mix. Season with black pepper. Combine sour cream and dill in separate bowl. Top each toast point (I use thin Pepperidge Farm) with about 1/2 tbsp. or more of salmon mixture and add small dollop of dill and sour cream. Arrange on a pretty platter (I like a solid color) and garnish with lemon and dill sprigs. As a change from toast points, I like to use a sturdy potato chip as the base.

“There are few places on the planet that I like to go to more than Oklahoma Joe’s. I’ve taken designers like David Yurman and Robert Procop there in the past, and they’ve waited in line along with everyone else.” — Cathy Tivol

Cathy’s Yummy Blue Cheese Coleslaw 1-1/2 cups mayonnaise 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup Dijon mustard Scant 1/2 cup cider vinegar (I like it between 1/3 - 1/2) 1/4 cup buttermilk 3/4 tbsp. celery seed 1/2 tbsp. kosher salt 1/2 tsp. black pepper 7-1/2 cups thinly sliced red cabbage 2 green bell peppers thinly sliced 2 cups carrots grated 2 cups blue cheese, crumbled Combine all ingredients in big bowl. Stir well and refrigerate until chilled.

PEACE OF MIND STARTS WITH PROOF OF QUALITY. Carat Weight 1.53

Color Grade E

Clarity Grade VS1

Cut Grade Excellent

Laser Inscription Registry Number GIA 16354621

Natural Diamond Not Synthetic

A GIA report is certainty from the source. As creator of the 4Cs and the International Diamond Grading System™, GIA sets the standards for diamond assessment, worldwide. Unbiased. Scientific. A report from GIA gives you a clear understanding of your diamond’s quality. Look for GIA Diamond Grading Reports and the jewelers who offer them. www.4cs.gia.edu

THE UNIVERSAL STANDARD BY WHICH GEMS ARE JUDGED.

SPIRITS

FINE

TEQUILA

Mexico’s national spirit looks toward luxury.

T

he Margarita continues to rank as one of the country’s most popular cocktails, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. (DISCUS), as well as a perennially popular resort option. Fortunately, today’s drinker has an unprecedented range of premium and superpremium tequila options from which to choose, whether sipped, shot or mixed into a drink. Casa Dragones is a super-premium, limited-production blend of blanco (aged two to six months) and extra añejo (aged five years) tequilas, designed for refined, smooth sipping. It’s made in small batches and bottled in individually engraved, signed and numbered crystal decanters. “For us, it’s one bottle at a time,” says co-founder and maestra tequilera Bertha Gonzalez Nieves, “and we never want to change that.” At about $300 a bottle, it’s not for shooting. Instead, it’s for sipping and is part of what could be called a Third Wave of Tequila in the U.S. (Jose Cuervo representing our introduction to the agave-based spirit in the 1960s and ’70s, Patron/Sauza/El Tesoro taking us further along the journey in the ’80s and ’90s, and today’s artisanal and luxury products expanding our horizons yet again). Most of the flexibility in tequila production involves the fine points of harvesting agave hearts, or piñons, how and how long the piñons are cooked, and specific distillation techniques. Blending differently aged batches, as Casa Dragones does, is a relatively new twist, one which Maestro Dobel

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Single Estate tequila ($45) claims to have mastered first. A clear, colorless blend of various aged tequilas, Dobel is unexpectedly earthy on the palate, in part due to the use of Balkan oak. Don Julio, meanwhile, launched its Añejo 70 Claro ($70) in late 2011. Not a blend of aged tequilas, rather a clarified and filtered añejo, the result is a clear, colorless juice like a blanco, with the toasted oak and dusty sugar notes of an aged spirit. Perhaps the most interesting experimentation happening with tequila involves barrel choices. Most brands employ new oak or used bourbon barrels (the way most Scotch whisky does) during the aging process, but a few are exploring sherry casks, port barrels and more. DeLeon, a Guanajuato-based spirits brand, launched Leona on December 21 last year (the “end of the world” on the Mayan calendar). It was the first in a series of high-end, limited-edition “reserva” releases from the brand. Founder Brent Hocking says, “We were lucky to have purchased extra Sauternes barrels used in finishing our añejo expression. While going through the warehouse, we decided to experiment and see what would happen if we left some to sit.” Taking the tequila to the aging “edge” of the añejo classification (34 months), the resulting liquor is sweet, rich and complex and, quite simply, one of the most intriguing tequilas on the market. At $825, it had better be good of course, but Leona is no vanity project. It’s definitive proof that tequila has potential, as a fine spirit, far beyond body shots at spring break.

COURTESY DELEON TEQUILA

ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

© D.YURMAN 2013

TIVOL ACCENT THE MAGAZINE OF LIFE’S CELEBRATIONS

SPRING/SUMMER 2013

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