Off to base camp

9__Bobotei

Off to base camp

Far away in the northeast of Tokyo, in a remote dead-end street, is a special tavern. From the front garden with its barbecue area you have a view through sliding doors of the interior of a wooden building that consists of only one large room. On the right is a bar counter with a tiny kitchen, on the left set into the floor an irori, now a rare sight: a traditional hearth that warms guests from the end of October to March. When you have taken off your shoes and entered, you will immediately be greeted warmly by the landlord, Satoru Mishima.

Mishima was an editor in a publishing house for 30 years, but gave up this employment because of his love of books: he had lost interest in publishing purely commercial works with a short shelf life. Since then he has continued to be a freelance editor of books, now of long sellers on subjects that are close to his heart, for example environmental and social issues. Through his work at the publishing house and decades of work as an environmentalist, he has built up an extensive network of authors and photographers, ranging from one of the icons of the American hippie movement, Gary Snyder, to local persons who share Mishima’s ideals of a better, more attractive society.

This explains why he runs a tavern. After leaving the publisher he opened an establishment in Higashimurayama that served as a curry restaurant by day and a bar by night. Now older than 70, he wanted to slow down a little, so he closed the large restaurant-bar in order to open Bobotei two days a week right next to his home. But he has never regarded these enterprises merely as a source of income. Mishima calls them a little ‘base camp’ for a peaceful and friendly community. Therefore he introduces his guests to one another, and in no time at all, stimulating conversations are struck up over a delicious bite to eat and some good sake.

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Address 茫々亭, Bobotei, Noguchicho 3-11-8, Higashimurayama-shi, 189 – 0022 Tokyo, +81 (0) 42 391 2365 | Getting there Seibu bus no. 35 to Megurita, 2-minute walk | Hours Fri & Sat 6 – 11pm; it is a good idea to phone in advance, as the times can vary | Tip Close by is Issui, a low-cost Chinese restaurant that serves tasty menus with generous portions. A recommendation is kuroyakisoba, a noodle dish with a spicy black sauce. Here you can also practise angling in a fi shpond.