The 500 Hidden Secrets of
COPENHAGEN AUSTIN SAILSBURY
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The 5 best restaurants for COPENHAGEN ATMOSPHERE
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MANFREDS & VIN Jægersborggade 40 Copenhagen N ➃ +45 3696 65930 www.manfreds.dk
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ALMANAK AT THE STANDARD Havnegade 4 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 7214 8808 www.thestandardcph.dk
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In the spirit of Parisian bobo (at once bourgeois and bohemian), Manfreds & Vin brings a serious Nordic sensibility to trendy Jægersborggade. With its extensive lists of wines and healthy meals, Manfreds never disappoints. Recommended: the house’s Kolster beer and the ‘chef’s selection’ seven-plate lunch. Almanak is the essential Copenhagen restaurant: elegant, modern interiors, waterfront views, and outstanding Nordic-centric food. On top of that, Almanak is located inside ‘The Standard’, one of Copenhagen’s most iconic buildings. Tip: book a table for lunch when the views are better and the prices are lower.
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The 5 best places for SWEET TREATS
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CONDITORIET LA GLACE Skoubogade 3 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3314 4646, www.laglace.dk
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BERTELS KAGER Falkoner Allé 54 Frederiksberg ➅ +45 3313 0033 www.bertelskager.dk
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PETER BEIER CHOKOLADE Nordre Frihavnsgade 20 Copenhagen Ø ➄ +45 3538 0110 www.pbchokolade.dk
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For nearly 150 years, Conditoriet La Glace has been crafting Copenhagen’s most exquisite wedding cakes, pastries, and colourful sweet treats. Rich with tradition and old world charm, enjoying a coffee and cake at Conditoriet La Glace is a little like (high calorie) time travelling. With over 100 different recipes in their repertoire (many rotate with the season’s ingredients), Bertels cheesecake shop will certainly have something for every kind of sweet tooth. And, if your cake craving hits you after dinner, you’re in luck: this award-winning cakery is open late most nights. Since 1996, Peter Beier has been thé name in artisanal Danish chocolate goodies. And luckily for visitors to Copenhagen, Peter Beier’s ethically sourced and sustainably produced delicacies are now available in boutique locations throughout the capital.
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NAMNAM SLIK Amagerbrogade 72 Copenhagen S ➆ +45 3296 6071
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THE DONUT SHOP Jægersborggade 5 Copenhagen N ➃ +45 2629 7918 www.thedonutshop.dk
Denmark is a nation with a huge appetite for colourful, wonderful, toothrotting candy. And NamNam Slik is one of the best local shops for indulging in the love of chocolates, gummies, and other treats. Tip: Friday is officially candy day in Copenhagen, so why not join the tradition by filling up a bag of fredags slik (Friday candy). Although the shop’s flavours rotate daily, there is always something to love on their menu. Recommended: the ‘coco loco’ and the ‘marzipan caramel fudge’.
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The 5 hippest COCKTAIL BARS
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LIDKOEB Vesterbrogade 72B Copenhagen V ➂ www.lidkoeb.dk
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RUBY Nybrogade 10 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3393 1203 www.rby.dk
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THE UNION BAR Store Strandstræde 19 Copenhagen K ➀
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Located in an historic building hidden just off of busy Vesterbrogade, Lidkoeb is three storeys of romantic ambiance, impeccable Danish design, and amazing mixed drinks (they also serve artisanal beers). Tip: Make sure to visit the gorgeous whisky bar on the top floor. There is no name on the door, no sign pointing the way; you just have to search for Ruby until you find it. But once you do, you will enter into Copenhagen’s most legendary spot for cocktails. Since 2007, Ruby has been charming patrons with its low-lit interiors, friendly vibe, and extraordinary seasonal cocktails. After entering this elusive ‘speakeasy’ via an unmarked door, a secret doorbell, and stairs down into the cellar, guests are invited to step back in time and embrace The Union’s prohibition-era vibe, complete with vintage music, dim lights, and leather-aproned bar staff.
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DUCK AND COVER Dannebrogsgade 6 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 2812 4290 www.duckandcoverbar.dk
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CURFEW Stenosgade 1 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 2929 9276 www.curfew.dk
Beneath the cool, distinctly midcentury modern interiors – think Scandinavian Mad Men, Duck and Cover – is essentially a really friendly neighbourhood cocktail bar. The space is intimate, the staff are enthusiastic, and the music is always perfectly in line with the bar’s unpretentious vibe. Occupying a site that has played host to all kinds of bars since the early 20th century, this place has seen its fair share of heroes and villains – ask about the bullet holes in the walls. Recommended: the ‘Unfaithful’, made with Hendricks gin, cucumber, lemon juice, Cointreau, raw licorice, and honey.
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The 5 best NEIGHBOURHOOD COFFEE BARS
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LA ESQUINA Ryesgade 7 Copenhagen Ø ➄ +45 3536 3336 www.laesquina.dk
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KENT’S KAFFE LABORATORIUM Nørre Farimagsgade 70 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3311 1315 www.kentkaffe laboratorium.com
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CENTRAL CAFÉ Tullinsgade 1 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 2615 0186 www.centralhotelogcafe.dk
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La Esquina is located pretty far off the typical tourist path, but for the people living and working around Ryesgade, this place is an oasis for those in need of a proper cup of coffee, a healthy lunch, or a glass or two of Spanish wine. Part coffee bar, part science lab, Kent’s KAFFE Lab is a coffee bar unlike any other in Copenhagen. The team at Kent’s take coffee very seriously and love to talk about the how, why, and where of their beans, processes, and equipment.
Located underneath the so-called ‘smallest hotel in the world’, the Central Café on Tullinsgade is a beloved neighbourhood haunt, rich in history and local pride. Tip: with only five seats inside the cafe, it’s best to sit outside, where there’s plenty of room to take in the ambiance of the charming street.
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THE COFFEE COLLECTIVE Jægersborggade 10 Copenhagen N ➃ +45 6015 1525 www.coffeecollective.dk
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PROPS COFFEE SHOP Blågårdsgade 5 Copenhagen N ➃ +45 3536 9955 www.propscoffeeshop.dk
By now you’ve likely heard of The Coffee Collective, who opened Copenhagen’s first open coffee roastery in 2008. And while any one of the brand’s awardwinning, sustainably-focused locations will serve you a perfect coffee, the original on Jægersborggade still has that lovely neighbourhood vibe. When it comes to finding an authentic neighbourhood coffee bar, look no further than Props Coffee Shop. Located on the walking street of Blågårdsgade and tucked in between galleries, secondhand shops, and dive bars, this place is always full of local characters and lively conversation.
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The 5 best BOUTIQUE DESIGN shops
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MUNK Torvegade 25 Christianshavn ➁ +45 3336 5554 www.munkshop.dk
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DESIGNER ZOO Vesterbrogade 137 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 3324 9493 www.dzoo.dk
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NOTRE DAME Nørregade 7 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3315 1615 www.notredame.dk
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This award-winning boutique is the passion project of owner Hans Peter Munk, a longtime veteran of the Scandinavian design industry. With its stunning aesthetics and perfectly curated selection of brands, Munk has established itself as Christianshavn’s best design shop. Part retail shop, part designer workshop, Designer Zoo is unlike any other design shop in Copenhagen. Since 1999, Designer Zoo has served two functions – one, sell great Danish design products, and two, invite local makers to collaborate and create on-site. This colourful shop carries a vast selection of Danish designed kitchenwares, linens, paper goods, lighting and small furniture. Every possible surface and wall of Notre Dame is covered in things you will want to take home for yourself or as a gift.
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DANSKMADEFORROOMS Istedgade 80 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 3218 0255 www.danskmade forrooms.dk
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DESIGNDELICATESSEN Frederiksberg Allé 6 Frederiksberg ➅ +45 3311 1470 www.designdelicatessen.dk
Opened by fashion designers (and sisters) Ma-lou and Malene Sofie Westendahl, DANSKmadeforrooms is a bespoke, influential leader among the city’s many design shops. Every textile, lamp, poster, and chair featured at DANSK has been hand-selected for its timeless, enduring quality. The inspiring Designdelicatessen showroom on Frederiksberg Allé is a treasure trove of Scandinavian furniture, lamps, graphics and textiles. But the shop’s lovely selection of products is only a sampling of Designdelicatessen’s even larger online inventory of approximately 4000 items.
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The 5 best shops for HIS & HERS FASHION
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SAMSØE & SAMSØE Pilestræde 8C Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3528 5111 www.samsoe.com
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MADS NØRGAARD Amagertorv 15 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3332 0128 www.madsnorgaard.dk
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One of the most continually relevant and fashionable boutiques in Copenhagen, Samsøe is where modern streetwear meets Scandinavian chic. There are several Samsøe locations in town, but the shop on Pilestræde is the best – with an ever-changing selection of fresh and creative men’s and women’s fashion. Mads Nørgaard’s modern interpretations of fashion classics have become iconic among Copenhagen’s young, artistic crowd. Though never straying too far from time-tested prints, classic stripes, and Scandinavian knits, Nørgaard’s thoughtful collections are always moving fashion forward.
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STORM COPENHAGEN Store Regnegade 1 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3393 0014 www.stormfashion.dk
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KYOTO Istedgade 95 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 3331 6636 www.kyoto.dk
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SELECTED Frederiksberg Centret Falkoner Allé 21 Frederiksberg ➅ +45 3888 9939 www.selected.com
Since 2001, Storm Copenhagen’s concept store on Store Regnegade has been setting trends and challenging the idea of what a retail space can be. By incorporating books, art, skin care products, music, and magazines alongside high-end fashion brands, Storm has made a name for itself as Copenhagen’s premier lifestyle shop. This trendy multi-brand shop has been around since 2001 and carries a variety of the best Scandinavian brands, such as Selected, Wood Wood, and Le Fix. In addition to selling great clothing, Kyoto’s relaxed vibe and friendly staff are a welcome change from the hustle and bustle of the central shopping district. The SELECTED brand has been growing steadily since 1997, when it was founded as a modern Nordic menswear label. Since then, SELECTED has expanded to include SELECTED Femme for women. With a focus on classic sophistication and subtle glamour, SELECTED is a sure bet for the essential fashion needs of today’s urbanites.
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The 5 best VIEWS FROM ABOVE the city
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THE ROUND TOWER Købmagergade 52A Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3373 0373
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CHRISTIANSBORG PALACE TOWER Prins Jørgens Gård 1 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3392 6492
Originally built as an astronomical observatory, the Rundetårn (the Round Tower) is one of the most unassuming and overlooked treasures in the city. For a very small fee, visitors can enter the 17th-century tower and ascend the spiral ramp, originally designed for horses to climb, toward the observatory at the top. It’s not an easy hike up, but the views from the top are well worth the effort. Known as ‘Borgen’ by locals, Christiansborg Palace was once the main residence of the Danish royalty but is now the home of the Danish Parliament. For decades, the Christiansborg Tower, which stands 106 metres high, was off limits, but finally opened to the public in 2014. Lucky for you, there’s a lift to the top of the tower, and, best of all, admission is free.
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SKY BAR & RESTAURANT AT BELLA SKY HOTEL Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S ➆ +45 3247 3000 www.acbellasky copenhagen.dk
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STAR FLYER AT TIVOLI GARDENS Vesterbrogade 3 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3315 1001 www.tivoli.dk
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STICKS’N’SUSHI
What’s classier than enjoying a glass of champagne 75 metres above street level, while taking in a view over the sea toward Sweden? Not much. Now open for lunch as well as dinner and drinks, the ultra-classy Sky Bar & Restaurant is a stylish way to take in a stunning view as well as a world-class meal. The iconic Tivoli Gardens are beloved for their beautiful landscape design, vintage charm, and extravagant seasonal decorations. But, high above the park, dangling and swinging from the Star Flyer – the highest carousel in Northern Europe – is the only place to get a highspeed, 360-degree tour of Copenhagen.
Offering stunning views in both rain or sunshine, the Sticks’n’Sushi restauArni Magnussons Gade 2 rant atop the Lego-like Tivoli Hotel is Copenhagen V ➂ a favourite ‘special occasion’ dining +45 4487 0000 destination for locals. From the rooftop www.tivolihotel.com restaurant’s breathtaking vantage point, the entire bustling life of the capital can be observed below.
AT THE TIVOLI HOTEL
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The 5 most inspiring ART MUSEUMS
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ORDRUPGAARD Vilvordevej 110 Charlottenlund ➇ +45 3964 1183 www.ordrupgaard.dk
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HIRSCHSPRUNG COLLECTION Stockholmsgade 20 Copenhagen Ø ➄ +45 3542 0336 www.hirschsprung.dk
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ARKEN MUSEUM OF MODERN ART Skovvej 100 Ishøj ➇ +45 4354 0222 www.arken.dk
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Originally built as a private residence in the woods, Ordrupgaard now includes a stunning addition designed by architect Zaha Hadid. The heart of the museum’s permanent collection includes works by Degas, Renoir, Monet, Cézanne, Gauguin, and Matisse. Paid admission includes access to the preserved home of Danish architect Finn Juhl. The Hirschsprung Collection celebrates Danish art from the 19th and early 20th centuries. This intimate museum, situated in Østre Anlæg park, includes works from the Danish Golden Age through to the early modern period. The impressive ARKEN Museum of Modern Art is located on Køge Bay Beach in Ishøj, just south of Copenhagen. ARKEN’s permanent collection emphasises modern Danish, Nordic, and international art from after 1990, including works by Ai Weiwei, Damien Hirst and Olafur Eliasson.
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THORVALDSENS MUSEUM Bertel Thorvaldsens Plads 2 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3332 1532 www.thorvaldsens museum.dk
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KUNSTHAL CHARLOTTENBORG Kongens Nytorv 1 Copenhagen K ➀ +45 3374 4639 www.kunsthal charlottenborg.dk
The collection in this museum concentrates on the life’s work of one man, Danish master sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen (1770-1844), who donated his entire body of work to the city of Copenhagen in 1838. Tip: admission is free on Wednesdays.
This historic palace is home to one of the most overlooked art spaces in Copenhagen, the Charlottenborg Art Hall, the official exhibition gallery of the Royal Danish Academy of Art. The museum’s cafe and bookshop are also well worth a visit.
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The 5 best ICE CREAM shops
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SICILIANSK IS Skydebanegade 3 Copenhagen V ➂ +45 3022 3089 www.sicilianskis.dk
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ISTID Jægersborggade 13 Copenhagen N ➃ +45 6131 1834 www.istid.dk
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OLUFS IS Olufsvej 6 Copenhagen Ø ➄ +45 5151 6868 www.olufs.dk
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Organic ingredients, creative seasonal flavours, and a friendly neighbourhood vibe have made this authentic Sicilianstyle gelato shop a Vesterbro favourite. But like most ice cream shops in Copenhagen, Siciliansk Is is only open from April to September. ISTID is the first and only all organic, nitrogen-chilled ice cream shop in Copenhagen. Part science lab, part performance art space, ISTID was opened by two local women looking to do something new for their fellow ice cream-obsessed Copenhageners. OLUFs IS was the first shop in Copenhagen to make specialty, handmade ice lollies. They call them ‘ice sticks’ here, and with over 30 flavours in rotation, there is always something new and delicious to discover.
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VAFFELBAGEREN AND RAJISSIMO Nyhavn 49 +45 3314 0698 www.vaffelbageren.dk Nyhavn 19 +45 5052 7629 www.rajissimo.dk Copenhagen K ➀
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ØSTERBERG ICE CREAM Rosenvængets Allé 7C Copenhagen Ø ➄ +45 6142 3289 www.osterberg-ice.dk
There is no more quintessential Copenhagen experience than wandering the cobblestone streets of Nyhavn with a giant waffle cone stuffed with ice cream in your hand. Lucky for you, there are two excellent options along Nyhavn for freshly made cones and classicly flavoured scoops of ice cream.
Cathrine Østerberg’s shop is a rising star among Copenhagen’s craft ice cream scene. With her mission to help customers ‘taste the world’, Cathrine offers all natural ice creams and sorbets in intriguing flavours such as aloe vera with pomegranate and red dragon fruit.
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What are the 5 best places to sample New Nordic cuisine? What are the 5 cosiest cafes for a rainy day? Who are the 5 most inspiring fashion designers in Copenhagen and what do you need to know before riding a bike in the Danish capital? The 500 Hidden Secrets of Copenhagen reveals these good-toknow addresses and facts and many, many more. It is an affectionate guide to the city, written by journalist Austin Sailsbury. He selected 500 places and details that he loves in and about Copenhagen, like a BBQ restaurant with its own microbrewery, a 26-metre-tall Tuborg beer bottle, or a large open air cafe in the beautiful natural surroundings of the unique freetown Christiania. This is a book for visitors who want to avoid the usual tourist spots and for residents who are keen to track down the city’s best-kept secrets. It is the 10th guide in the successful Hidden Secrets series. Also available (in regularly updated editions) are The 500 Hidden Secrets of Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent, Flanders Fields and the Belgian Coast, Paris, Amsterdam, London, Barcelona and Lisbon. A U S T I N S A I L S B U R Y lives in Copenhagen and works
there as a freelance writer and creative consultant. He has contributed to many international print and web publications, including Kinfolk Magazine (US) and The Murmur (DK). As a foreigner who now calls Copenhagen home, he has kept the ever-curious attitude of an explorer in his own city. ISBN 978 94 6058 1762