17 minute read
writes in praise of signet rings
Seal of Approval
Demand for signet rings is soaring in the saleroom. With many having a traceable link to noble families from centuries ago they are an enchanting piece of wearable history
Above A gold signet ring with a pink tourmaline stone, was engraved with Royal Arms and a motto, possibly for Henry Beaufort, 3rd Duke of Somerset (14361464), image courtesy of Lawrences in Crewkerne
Right A late 19th-century gold signet ring, the marquise-shaped seal engraved with a crest and motto ‘VICIMUS’, the reverse engraved ‘W.W.W. / to / E.J.M’ and ‘Nov. 22. 1890’. It sold for £806 this June, image courtesy of Dix Noonan Webb
When a trio of signet rings sold for multiple times its estimate in a regional auction house, you know it’s time for collectors to sit up and take note. The sale, at Somerset auctioneers Lawrences, saw a gold signet ring with a sardonyx stone engraved with a coat of arms make £1,250 (against an estimate of £150£250), while two other signet rings smashed their presale estimate of £300 to both take £11,250. The first ring, set with a foiled glass intaglio, came from the collection of a medieval Earl of
Buchan and might have been worn by his
Countess, Mary Stewart in the 1430s. The second (left) had a pink tourmaline stone engraved with Royal Arms and a motto, possibly for Henry Beaufort, 3rd Duke of Somerset (1436-1464). Lawrences’ specialist, Alex Butcher, said: “Jewellery has such intimate and personal associations. Rings with a distinguished history and clear aristocratic connections carry an association that few other items could ever hope to match. With treasures such as this, one is truly in touch with history.”
LONG HISTORY
For centuries the signet ring has been an essential accessory to the well-heeled male. Known as the ‘gentleman’s ring’, it was traditionally seen as a symbol of family heritage with many bearing the family crest or coat of arms engraved in reverse so that it could be pressed into soft clay or wax and used as a seal on a document – indeed the name comes from the Latin signum meaning ‘sign’. Curator and jewellery expert, Rachel
Church, said: “Signet rings are probably one of the earliest forms of rings and have proved to be long lasting. Even in an age of email and text, where no letter will ever require sealing wax, they continue to be stylish jewels – a way to showcase your good taste and identity on your finger. Signet rings could be decorated with initials, skulls, coats of arms, devices and even a portrait of your pet dog - there is no limit to the possibilities of design.” These days signet rings are increasingly sought after by young collectors – both male and female. Gary Mayoh from
Left A mid Victorian 15ct gold and bloodstone inset signet ring, 1865, with maker’s mark ‘JP’, sold for £446 in 2020, image courtesy of Dix Noonan Webb
Below right A signet ring remains the essential accessory for the man about town
Bottom right An engraved gold cushion-set signet ring, image courtesy of Hancocks, London
London-based signet ring maker Rebus, said: “They are really fashionable among students who are coming up with their own designs which we engrave. They might well pass the ring on to future generations – creating antiques of the future.”
WAX STAMPS
The earliest rings were used as seals. In ancient Mesopotamia, engraved cylindrical seals made of stone were used to create impressions in clay. Signet rings have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs where they took the form of rock crystal, amethyst, steatite or gold. The designs were conservative and simple, with one of the most famous examples coming from the tomb of Huy, Viceroy of Nubia under Tutankhamun (c. 13371327 BC).
In 600 BC, signets with metal bezels of bronze, silver, and gold appear in Greece, often engraved with natural imagery and miniatures of Greek sculpture and art. Throughout the Roman period, the signet ring moved from iron to gold and silver as the wealth of the empire increased. The signet ring also became larger and set with more gemstones.
While Emperor Augustus ordered a ring with his own portrait on it, the scope of the signet ring branched out to depict favourite sports, stories or loved ones. Some even portrayed nude women or pornographic scenes as erotic reminders of the wearer’s mistress.
FIRST BRITISH RINGS
Possibly the earliest surviving seal ring from England is a late 7th or early 8th-century ring, now in Norwich Castle Museum. The ring is inscribed with the woman’s name ‘Balde hildis’ which may refer to Bathild (or Balthild) who was sold as a slave but went on to marry the Frankish King Clovis II. While it is not known for certain if she was the Bathild to whom the ring refers, it does suggest the ring may have been worn by a woman.
During the middle ages, with the invention of sealing wax, signet rings transitioned from having a raised carving, to intaglio, which meant their design was sunken. This would leave an impression in the wax more effectively. Almost every person of nobility wore a signet ring engraved with their family’s crest or coat of arms. Over time, sealing in wax gradually became less elitist and by the middle of the 13th century, freemen adopted the practice.
Where to wear?
Traditionally, the signet ring was worn on the small ‘pinkie’ finger of the non-dominant hand. For example, a right-handed person would wear the signet ring on their left pinkie finger. This was so the ring could fulfil its primary purpose efficiently, which was to emboss or seal a document. In the UK, this is still considered to be traditionally correct.
However, the position is not echoed everywhere. Swiss men wear signet rings on the right finger of the right hand. In France, signet rings are worn on the right digit of the left hand, while in America, they are commonly worn on the middle finger. The modern trend in the UK is to wear a signet ring on the same finger as the wedding ring.
The majority of rings dating from these periods were destroyed when the owner died to prevent any possibility of forged documents appearing after a nobleman’s death.
Having a ring during this period marked you as a member of the highest class but as time went on the fashion percolated into the bourgeoisie. In the absence of a coat of arms, the middle classes used a signet ring to denote sophistication.
NEW TWISTS
The Georgians added a clever twist to the signet ring. At the ring base was a hidden hinged key that could be opened out to unlock a box containing jewellery, valuables or documents.
In the 19th century, the fascination for classicism grew into nostalgia for the renaissance and medieval
TYPES OF SIGNET RING
Oxford Oval - perhaps the most popular and traditional shape for signet rings. Round - thought to be more contemporary than the traditional oval. Marquise – an elegant and unusual diamond shape. Cushion – a soft, square-shaped ring, a favourite during the Victorian era.
Above A selection of signet rings, image courtesy of Hancocks, London
Right Prince Charles wears a signet ring on his little finger
Below left Signet rings come in a number of styles
Below right Signet ring, c. 1353–1323 BC, New Kingdom, Amarna period with two cartouches topped by ostrich plumes. The presence of Bes, a minor god associated with women in labour, suggesting the ring belonged to a queen, image courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art
Who wears them?
Prince Charles wears one adorned with the fleur-de-lis alongside his wedding ring. The actor Steve McQueen was rarely seen without a gold square signet on his ring finger.
The wartime leader Sir Winston Churchill also wore a signet ring with his family crest on his third finger.
Henrietta Queen of France, who died in 1669, wore a diamond signet ring with the coat of arms of her husband King Charles I.
The Pope has worn a signet ring called the Ring of The Fisherman or the ‘Piscatory Ring’ since 1265, with an engraving which represents Saint Peter.
When a Pope dies, his signet ring is ceremonially destroyed by hammering it into two lines in the shape of the cross.
Carole and Pippa Middleton wear signet rings engraved with the Middleton family coat of arms awarded after the Cambridges’ wedding. Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, is also rarely seen without a gold signet ring.
periods. Along with the Romantic movements in art and literature, Romanticism abounded in jewellery. Meanwhile, the signet ring continued in its use as a wax seal. John Everett Millais, famous for his painting of Shakespeare’s Ophelia, solidified his friendship with William Holman Hunt by marking a signet ring.
What to LOOK FOR
We asked Annabel Zarandi, Fellows Auctioneer’s jewellery and watch specialist for the most sought-after designs
Semi-precious gemstones, such as bloodstone or sardonyx, are often used in signet rings but for real desirability we need to look to the pieces which contain precious stones such as sapphire or amethyst. These rings are difficult to carve, as the engraver had to work with the gemstones’ internal chemical structure, which is why they are so desirable and rarer to come across.
While we have seen many different styles of signet rings at auction, it is always the more unusual and quirky items that really stand out. For example, a traditional oval signet ring with a very non-traditional engraving stood out a couple of years ago. The piece, with a brilliant-cut diamond, was gifted in the ‘80s by the fast-food chain McDonald’s to an employee in recognition of service.
Signet rings are reasonably easy to acquire at auction or from a jeweller. However, if you are looking for an antique piece, the likelihood of finding a blank ring is low. Modern signet rings are a great option if you are looking to get a personalised ring. The jewellers Rebus offers engraving services and will help create a design, or a contemporary jeweller such as Castro Smith would be a great option for a more unique signet ring.
Above right Michael Estorick’s carnelian signet ring with a Roman carving and 13th-century inscription, unearthed in 1760, image courtesy of Christie’s
Below left Antique signet rings often crop up at auction
Annabel Zarandi BA, GA is a jewellery and watch specialist based in Fellows’ London office.
My signet ring
Collector and author Michael Estorick on his signet ring with a Roman-engraved stone and a 13th-century inscription, unearthed in the north of England in 1760
“I love signet rings. I’m interested in all forms of mark-making — calligraphy, drawing, writing fiction. I think life is all about making your mark.
“I bought this ring around the time I started collecting. It was 1977, and I had just been given an advance on a book, so I went off and spent all of it on this one object. Soon after, someone found a reference to the ring in the journal of the Society of Antiquaries. It seems to have been dug up in Yorkshire, England, in 1760. I imagine it fell off someone’s finger, or was perhaps deliberately buried.
“The stone is a carnelian, and the carving is firstcentury Roman. The intaglio may seem tiny, but it is not small by the standards of Roman engraving. The figure with the horse is probably Castor.”
Returning crusader
“A crusader may have brought the stone back to England from the East. In the 13th century, it was set in the ring — perhaps in York, where there were many jewellers — and the ring was given an inscription in Lombardic lettering, which was the fashion at the time. The Latin wording says something about ‘our horse’, although I have never translated it. I wear the ring sometimes — I do see the pointlessness of keeping things in boxes.
“When they were used for putting a seal on a document, signet rings were usually worn on the thumb. As they migrated down the hand, they became more decorative. On the Continent, people tend to wear such rings on the middle or fourth finger; in this country, they are worn on the little finger.
“I always bid more than I want to spend, because auction rooms bring on bouts of what I call Nuremberg fever — the arm goes up. In the early days of collecting, I thought things like this would be snapped up: when you become keen on something, you imagine that everyone else is, too.
“You need at least three collectors to make a market, so there have been times when rings were relatively cheap, and others when they have been in great demand. I once bought a ring that was the second lot after lunch. I was incredibly pleased to get it while some people were still making their way back to their seats.”
Michael Estorick is the chairman of the Eric and Salome Estorick Foundation, which runs The Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art in North London.
We asked jewellery and watch experts for the piece they would most like to discover under the tree this year
Frances Noble, head of jewellery with the London auctioneers Dix
Noonan Webb. I would love to wake up to a piece with timeless style, beauty and history, such as the stunning art deco diamond and cultured pearl bracelet, c. 1925, cased by Cartier and once owned by Her Royal Highness, the Princess Margaret. It was the bracelet she wore in the photograph Cecil Beaton took of her on her 19th birthday in 1949. Dressed in an embroidered gown by Sir Norman Hartnell, the princess wore the bracelet on her left wrist.
It is the prettiest piece, with twin rows of deliciously smooth Mikimoto pearls centred with a delicate line of diamonds to a classic deco clasp.
Above right Sam would like to wake up to this 18th-century, gold signet ring, dated 1785
Below left Dig deep: the bracelet sold for £396,800 this year
Below right Liz wants a Georges L’Enfant Zodiac pendant made for Cartier in the 1970s
Below Pontus would love to give an iconic Tank watch also by Cartier
Pontus Silfverstolpe is the co-founder of the Barnebys, the world’s largest online auction
search engine. With the idea that is it is always better to give than to receive this is the gift I would like to give this Christmas. It’s a Cartier lady’s 18K gold quartz Tank rectangular wristwatch and, dating from 1990, is a modern classic. With its typical burgundy alligator leather strap, it’s also appropriate for nearly all occasions and seasons. Find more wristwatches and timepieces in all styles at Barnebys.co.uk
Samuel Mee from the Antique
Ring Boutique. I would describe this 18th-century, gold signet ring as handsome. What I love most about it is its generous scale and the way it symbolises the period in history so elegantly, when a document would be sealed by cinnabar-red wax. The impressive central plaque bears the initial of the original owner with an elaborate letter ‘M’ framed by incised beaded edging. It is a great statement piece, the colour of the high carat gold is alluring to the eye, it begs to be worn on the trigger finger, as it may have been 200 years ago over a heavy, stitched, black leather glove.
Liz Bailey head of jewellery
at Wilson 55. I would love to receive a piece of 1960s-1970s gold jewellery that is unique, sculptural and can be worn every day. These wonderful, tactile, bold and chunky pieces are so wearable and I just love how they suit modern fashions beautifully. Ideally, I would love a necklace to elevate any outfit I am wearing, so I would have to go for a Georges L’Enfant for Cartier Zodiac pendant. This amazing collaboration was created in the 1970s, and features oversized oval shape pendants so that I can wear my star sign as a medallion. At £15,000 it would be a very special gift.
Your Letters
This month’s postbag includes musings on the nature of collecting and a plea for information on a missing sporting trophy
The Fitzwilliam Museum in Cambridge recently put on display trophies from the Oxford Cambridge Boat Race. To accompany the exhibition, there is a very interesting online story on the history of the trophies and the race. In 1977, the race’s first trophy was commissioned by the betting group Ladbrokes. The Ladbroke Trophy continued to be awarded until 1987, with Oxford winning it every year except for 1986, when Cambridge won by seven lengths. In 1987, the Ladbroke Trophy was decommissoned after Beefeater Gin took over race sponsorship.
However, it seems the whereabouts of the Ladbroke’s Trophy is unknown. If anyone has any information or, indeed, knows anything of the designer of the iconic portrait of the exhausted rower on the front of it, I am sure the Fitzwilliam Museum would be very interested to hear. Richard Close, by email
receives a copy of Bulgari Treasures of Rome by Vincent Meylan worth £55. Write to us at Antique Collecting, Sandy Lane, Old Martlesham, Woodbridge, Suffolk, IP12 4SD or email magazine@ accartbooks.com
Above right The pursuit of knowledge should be at the heart of every collection
Right Trunk call: the elephant had special appeal
Below left The 2019 Cambridge rowing team
Star letter
Why collect? That question has often been asked. Georgina Wroe provided an admirable summary of the many reasons (Editor’s Welcome, September issue) including “simply because we like nice things”.
I prefer a more pragmatic reason and that is collecting for education and research. The most valued outcome being the sharing of that knowledge by way of displays, talks and publishing. In brief, to add something new to the body of knowledge. Proof of that are the many well-informed articles in Antique Collecting.
Ian Spellerberg, by email
The November magazine made my day. What a lovely issue of Antique Collecting. I was entranced by the article on Fabergé creatures (Animal Magic, November issue) with the little elephant standing on its trunk making me laugh out loud. My elephants are mostly bronze or netsukes. I also have an affinity for rabbits, most of which are probably Chinese, including an entire ivory boar’s tusk carved with gambolling rabbits. Many thanks for another wonderful issue.
Barry Anderson, Las Vegas, by email
Answers to the quiz on page 72
Q1 (c) Nelson. Q2 (a) A pole carrying a cannon-igniting match. Q3 (b) Al Capone. Q4 (b) Although some commentators put it closer to 1730, 1720 is close enough. Q5 c) A slice of the Prince and Princess of Wales’ wedding cake. Q6 a) £5. Q7 (b) Russian and (d) Scandinavian. Q8 (c) Jenny Haniver. Q9 (d) Love is in the Bin.Q10 (c) Proust.
(a) Paschal Bowlegs = Peachblow glass (a vitreous material) (b) Feral Hating = Farthingale (a women’s underskirt) (c) Pup Waterer = Tupperware (plastic containers) (d) Collie Hug = Guilloche (neo-classical French ornamentation)
