CHAPTER

INTRODUCTION

The name Fabergé has become a byword for luxury and craftsmanship of the highest order. The Imperial Russian goldsmith’s delicate and beautifully made creations entranced the greatest patrons of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries and have mesmerised every generation since.

The history of Fabergé, the Imperial Russian goldsmith, is inextricably entwined with that of Russia and the Romanov dynasty it served. The business was established in 1842 by Gustav Fabergé; under the guidance of his son, Carl, who joined in 1872, Fabergé eclipsed its rivals to become the largest and most prestigious jeweller in Russia. Although founded in and run from St. Petersburg the firm’s activities extended well beyond the borders of its homeland. It had an international patronage rivalling that which it enjoyed in Russia. To serve these overseas clients, the firm opened its only branch outside of Russia, in London in September 1903.

Fabergé’s works were as fashionable in London as they were in Russia and the branch grew to match those of St. Petersburg and Moscow in importance. It attracted a glittering homegrown clientele who were joined by an array of visiting Royals, aristocrats and socialites. Just as the Imperial family had in Russia, the British Royal family led the fashion for Fabergé in London and its most important patrons came from the Royal Court.

The vast majority of pieces purchased from Fabergé in London were bought as gifts. Exchanging gifts was an important protocol in Edwardian society and Fabergé offered its customers a supply of fashionable and royally-endorsed presents. The documented exchange of Fabergé gifts often identifies and reveals the nature of the relationships between the donor and recipient. Alice Keppel’s gift of a Fabergé cigarette case, decorated with emblems of eternal love to King Edward VII was a clear sign of her very personal feelings for him.

A photograph of Carl Fabergé sorting gemstones by Hugh Oberg. Wartski, London

Opposite page: The Winter Egg; Chief Jeweller: Albert Holmström, St. Petersburg, 1913. Given by Emperor Nicholas II to his mother Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna for Easter 1913. The Winter Egg is Fabergé's crowning masterpiece; the incredibly subtle use of complementing rock crystal, platinum and diamonds perfectly evokes the beauty of Russia's harsh winters.

Private Collection