Rolex, Building Icons by Mara Cappelletti

Geneva, 16 May, 2007 Rare cushion-form silver chronograph wristwatch with registers Ref. 2022 Chronograph c.1929

CHF 40,000 – 50,000 US$ 33,100 – 41,400

SOLD CHF 93,600

Ref. 2022 is an important model in the development of the Rolex chronograph. It is one of the first chronographs made by the company, one of the very few single-button models and one of the only cushion-form chronographs Rolex has manufactured. Additionally, it is highly unusual to find a Rolex chronograph in a silver case; interestingly, an advertisement from the 1930s displayed the model as available in either steel or gold, suggesting that silver was not a standard metal used in the production of this reference.

New York, 5 December, 2005 Rare cushion-form single-button gold chronograph wristwatch with register Ref. 2057 ‘Anti-magnetique’ Chronograph c.1930

US$ 20,000 – 30,000

SOLD US$ 22,800

The first Daytona – Ref. 6239 – was introduced in the early 1960s; it was to set the standards for Rolex chronographs for nearly 25 years. This watch was made to be the most reliable, precise and easy to read.

The movement, based on the Valjoux 72, was gradually upgraded to achieve the ultimate precision. The dial was produced with contrasting subsidiary counters to facilitate easy and accurate reading. For the same reason, the tachymeter scale was moved from the dial to the bezel. The watch also featured proven elements, such as the Oyster bracelet and the screw-down crown and case back. The result was a robust yet elegant sports tool watch.

It is, today, regarded as the most iconic and collectible wristwatch ever produced.

The vintage Daytona world is vast and certain references and characteristics are particularly sought-after. The reference 6239 is perhaps the most renowned.

The watch shown opposite is equipped with its original three-colour ‘Paul Newman’ dial. Nonetheless, what collectors appreciate is the mostattractive natural ‘tropical’ patina of the subsidiary dials. Over the years, their colour has changed from black to an appealing shade of ‘toffee’

brown. This phenomenon is caused by the reaction of materials in the dial to elements such as the sun and other forms of light. Note that the white part of the dial has also turned to an attractive cream colour. Very few examples of a Rolex ‘Paul Newman’ with such an appealing patina are known. What was originally considered to be a defect has become, today, highly desirable and coveted.

This watch was consigned to auction by its original and only owner. This piece came with an incredibly full set, comprising the original guarantee, invoice, box and outer packaging.

The watch was originally purchased new as a gift in 1975, by which time it was already seven years old and had a price tag of only £134.

The name ‘Cosmograph’ was first used on another Rolex watch: the Ref. 6062 Oyster Perpetual with moon phases and triple date, which was produced from 1950 to 1953. At the time it was called ‘Cosmograph’ because the moon phases were indicated against the backdrop of a dark blue starry sky. The name was then used again in 1963 to designate this new chronograph, a reference to the various space conquests that so fascinated the world in the late 1950s.

The original owner wearing the watch.

Geneva, 13 May, 2018 Very rare stainless-steel chronograph wristwatch with registers, ‘tropical’ subsidiary dials and bracelet Ref. 6239 Case 2004742 Cosmograph Daytona c.1969

CHF 200,000 – 400,000 US$ 208,000 – 416,000

SOLD CHF 951,000