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Explore Libbey

Feature Stories

26

Pizza! Pizza!

A pizza book author explores the pandemic-proof favorite, from new-wave doughs to plant-based options and more.

Departments

10 Management

An ACF chef and apprenticeship supervisor writes about the benefits (and challenges) of this timeless teaching method.

16

20

21

24

Main Course

Plating is an art form; chefs talk about the trends that inform how they present food today.

On the Side

All about the humble sweet potato and the special holiday sides that feature it.

Health

Chefs and farmers are working together to restore our country’s soil and reshape the food system.

Classical vs. Modern

Chef Andre Ellis, CEC, of Boonsboro Country Club showcases a classic and modern spin on the Jamaican oxtail stew from his childhood.

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42

Segment Spotlight

Healthcare chefs talk about the steps they’re taking to retain staff, boost morale and stay competitive.

Pastry

A look at traditional holiday desserts and the personal twists chefs are taking with them.

Editor-in-Chief

Amelia Levin

Creative Services Manager

David Ristau

Graphic Designer

Armando Mitra

Advertising and Event Sales

Eric Gershowitz

Director of Marketing and Communications

Alan Sterling

Contributing Editors

Amanda Baltazar, John Bartimole, Liz Barrett Foster, Jennifer Hill Booker, Kenya McCullum, Dan Pliska, CEC, AAC, Jody Shee, Robert Wemischner

Copy Editor

Erica Demarest

American Culinary Federation, Inc.

6816 Southpoint Parkway Ste 400 Jacksonville, FL 32216 (800) 624-9458 (904) 824-4468 Fax: (904) 940-0741 ncr@acfchefs.net ACFSales@mci-group.com www.acfchefs.org

Board of Directors

President

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA®, AAC®

Immediate Past President

Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA, AAC

National Secretary

Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC

National Treasurer

Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC

American Academy of Chefs Chair

Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC

Vice President Central Region

Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC

Vice President Northeast Region

Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE®, AAC, MBA

Vice President Southeast Region

Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC

Vice President Western Region

Greg Matchett, CEC

Executive Director

Heidi Cramb

The National Culinary Review® (ISSN 0747-7716), November/ December 2022, Volume 46, Number 6, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.

The National Culinary Review® is mailed, and periodical postage is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216.

The holidays are upon us!

It’s a special time — one that often means gathering with family and friends. But it can also be a stressful time, mental health-wise, for those suffering from depression and loneliness. As I write this, I’ve just read a lot of emails and messages overnight about ACF chefs and chapters affected by Hurricane Ian (please email disasterrelief@acfchefs.org or call the ACF office if you are in need of relief). It reminds me that this holiday season is the time not only to be grateful for what we have but also to think of those who may be in need and reach out to our colleagues, friends and fellow members. We are chefs. We are naturally giving and have a generous heart, and that’s what makes our federation so special.

For many of us, the holiday season is the busiest. This year, for the first time since the pandemic began, I’ll be traveling outside of the kitchen to talk to students at Johnson & Wales University in Charlotte, North Carolina, and even visit the Turkish Consulate General in Los Angeles. I am so excited and humbled to be flying around the country (and the world) to represent our ACF as your president!

Recently, I was honored to be invited on a trip to Mexico (sponsored by Patrón tequila and Tajín) for alumni of the James Beard Foundation’s Chef Boot Camp for Policy and Change. This program, which I completed during the height of the pandemic, taught me how to reach out to local governments to advocate for myself, my business and my industry. These are important skills and lessons that I apply every day to my role as your ACF president.

I’m not the only one headed out on some big trips this fall. Our esteemed ACF Culinary Team USA will be packing up their knives and heading to Luxembourg to compete in the Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup in late November (I’ll be there as a cheerleader). Read more about this on page 8. Let’s go, team!

National Apprenticeship Week is also in November — this strikes a personal chord with me because that’s how I got started (go Dallas College!). ACF Chef Dan Pliska, an apprenticeship supervisor, talks all about this educational tradition on p. 10.

Speaking of up-and-coming chefs, I would also like to introduce you to the new president of the ACF Young Chefs Club: Isaiah Gerrard, a student at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone. Learn more about him on p. 40.

Of course, I’m all about the food during the holidays! I love me some sweet potatoes (read ACF Chef Jennifer Hill Booker’s story on them on p. 20). And I have to have extra cranberry sauce for a sauce coulis for pound cake (read more about twists on holiday dessert on p. 42)! Best wishes to you this season, and I can’t wait to see, chat and work with you next year!

Forever thankful and grateful,

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC National President, American Culinary Federation

Contact

¡Se acercan las fiestas!

Es una época muy especial, un momento que solemos aprovechar para reunirnos con nuestros familiares y amigos. Sin embargo, para quienes padecen depresión y soledad, este momento también puede resultar estresante en términos de salud mental. Les escribo luego de haber leído muchos correos y mensajes sobre chefs y delegaciones de la ACF que se vieron afectados por el Huracán Ian (si necesita asistencia o socorro, envíe un correo a disasterrelief@acfchefs.org o comuníquese con la oficina de la ACF). Todas estas historias me recuerdan que estas fiestas no son solo un momento para sentirnos agradecidos por lo que tenemos, sino también para pensar en aquellos que puedan estar necesitando ayuda, para comunicarnos con nuestros colegas, amigos y demás miembros y extenderles una mano. Somos chefs. Dar está en nuestra naturaleza y tenemos un corazón generoso, y eso es lo que hace de nuestra federación un lugar tan especial.

Para muchos de nosotros, las fiestas son un momento de intenso trabajo. Este año, por primera vez desde el inicio de la pandemia, estaré saliendo de la cocina para encontrarme con estudiantes de Johnson & Wales University en Charlotte, Carolina del Norte. Incluso visitaré el Consulado General de Turquía en Los Ángeles. ¡Me siento muy entusiasmada y agradecida de poder recorrer el país (y el mundo) en representación de la ACF como presidenta!

Hace poco tuve el honor de que me invitasen a México (con el patrocinio Patrín tequila y tajín) en un viaje para exalumnos de la Chef Boot Campo for Policy and Change de la Fundación James Beard. El programa, que yo misma cursé durante el momento más álgido de la pandemia, me enseñó a comunicarme con los gobiernos locales para defender mis derechos, mi actividad y mi industria. Estos son conocimientos y lecciones importantes que pongo en práctica todos los días como parte de mi función como presidenta de la ACF.

No soy la única que piensa emprender viajes importantes en esta próxima temporada de otoño. Nuestro querido Equipo culinario de la ACF Estados Unidos estará llevando sus herramientas de cocina a Luxemburgo para competir en el Mundial Culinario de Villeroy & Boch a finales de noviembre (yo estaré ahí alentándolos). Para conocer más sobre este evento, diríjase a la página 8. ¡Vamos, equipo!

En noviembre también tendrá lugar la Semana nacional de la formación. Esto me toca de manera personal, dado que ahí fue donde yo empecé (¡Arriba Dallas College!). Dan Pliska, chef de la ACF y supervisor de formación, nos cuenta sobre esta tradución académica en la página 10. Y hablando de nuevos chefs prometedores, me gustaría presentarles al nuevo presidente del Club de chefs jóvenes de la ACF: Isaiah Gerrard. Isaiah es estudiante del Instituto Culinario de América en Greystone. Para conocerlo más, pase en la página 40.

¡Por supuesto que, en las fiestas, lo que más me gusta es la comida! Me encantan las batatas (para leer la historia sobre las batatas de Jennifer Hill Booker, chef de la ACF, pase a la página 20). Y siempre le agrego abundante salsa de arándanos al coulis para acompañar mis pound cakes (para leer más sobre algunos toques especiales para postres en las fiestas, pase a la página 42). ¡Les deseo lo mejor para estas fiestas! No puedo esperar a verlos, hablar con ustedes y trabajar juntos el próximo año.

Por siempre agradecida,