THIS LABOR SHORTAGE ISN’T A CRISIS IT’S A TOTAL AWAKENING

Let’s be honest, the current workforce reckoning is long overdue. And while our industry will be better because of it, much of the burden falls on you. We get it. And whether you need help rethinking your menu or finding more time to support employees, we are here for you.

Let’s fi gure this out together.

The Recruit

Feature Stories 26

ACF Chefs talk about how they’re attracting the best of the best. Plus, what younger chefs are looking for in potential employers today.

Departments

10 Management

16

20

24

Time is everything; a look at how competition chefs and culinary educators teach how to manage it.

Main Course

Chefs are redefining Levantine cuisine by studying history and regional nuances.

On the Side

Israeli chefs are introducing babka, an ancient sweet, to a wider audience with modern twists.

Classical vs. Modern

Chef Josh Wasky, CSC, CWPC, executive chef, Virginia Tech Dining Services, presents a classic pulled pork plate and a deconstructed modern version.

34

38

42

Health

Tofu presents both a healthful meat alternative and a blank culinary canvas. Plus, one scientist debunks misconceptions about soy nutrition.

Segment Spotlight

High school culinary educators showcase a wide variety of culinary jobs to entice a new generation.

Pastry

Chefs and “pastai” discuss the important ingredients and inspiration behind artisanal pasta-making.

Editor-in-Chief

Amelia Levin

Creative Services Manager

David Ristau

Graphic Designer

Armando Mitra

Advertising and Event Sales

Eric Gershowitz

Director of Marketing and Communications

Alan Sterling

Contributing Editors

Amanda Baltazar, John Bartimole, Lauren Kramer, Howard Riell, Jody Shee, Robert Wemischner

Copy Editor

Erica Demarest

American Culinary Federation, Inc. 6816 Southpoint Parkway Ste 400 Jacksonville, FL 32216 (800) 624-9458 (904) 824-4468 Fax: (904) 940-0741 ncr@acfchefs.net ACFSales@mci-group.com www.acfchefs.org

Board of Directors

President

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC®, CCA®, AAC®

Immediate Past President

Thomas Macrina, CEC®, CCA, AAC

National Secretary

Jeff Bacon, CEC, CCA, AAC

National Treasurer

Kent Andersen, CEC, CCA, AAC

American Academy of Chefs Chair

Americo “Rico” DiFronzo, CEC, CCA, AAC

Vice President Central Region

Rajeev Patgaonkar, CEC, AAC

Vice President Northeast Region

Barry R. Young, CEC, CCE®, AAC, MBA

Vice President Southeast Region

Bryan Frick, CEC, AAC

Vice President Western Region

Greg Matchett, CEC, AAC

Executive Director

Heidi Cramb

0747-7716), March/April 2023, Volume 47, Number 2, is owned by the American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF) and is produced six times per year by ACF, located at 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216. A digital subscription to the National Culinary Review® is included with ACF membership dues; print subscriptions are available to ACF members for $25 per year, domestic; nonmember subscriptions are $40. Material from the National Culinary Review®, in whole or in part, may not be reproduced without written permission. All views and opinions expressed in the National Culinary Review® are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views and opinions of the officers or members of ACF. Changes of mailing address should be sent to ACF’s national office: 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216; (800) 624-9458; Fax (904) 940-0741.

The National Culinary Review® is mailed, and periodical postage is paid at St. Augustine, Fla., and additional post offices.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to the National Culinary Review®, 6816 Southpoint Parkway, Ste 400, Jacksonville, FL 32216.

Spring is about to be sprung!

There’s a lot going on this time of year: Women’s History Month and National Nutrition Month in March, as well as major holidays like Easter and Passover in April. And I’m super geared up for the ACF National Qualifier and other upcoming competitions!

This issue is special to me because it’s focused on students and something near and dear to my heart: teaching and mentoring the next generation of chefs. Check out the main feature (page 26) covering that topic: Hear from experienced chefs on what they’re doing to attract and retain talent, and from recent culinary grads on what they’re looking for in employers. Turn to p. 22 to read about the two ACF Student Chef of the Year Award winners from 2022, both of whom have gone on to land great jobs and start their careers. There’s also some coverage of the 2022 ACF Student Team of the Year (p. 31).

If you’ve never mentored a younger chef before, consider doing that now. Pick one or two chefs working with you who are true go-getters. There’s nothing more rewarding than sharing and imparting your knowledge and recipes with others. Ask your chefs what their plan is for two years from now, five years from now or longer. Also: This wasn’t as commonplace in the past, but I’m finding it helpful to cross-train staff so that people can learn different jobs in the kitchen and help each other out more — especially amid ongoing labor challenges. It also creates a culture of learning, growth and engagement.

Collaboration is key, whether it’s between teacher and student, chef and chef or organization and organization. That’s why I’ve been so focused on collaborating with other groups like the James Beard Foundation (JBF) to bring more awareness about ACF. Last month, I was incredibly honored to have the U.S. Department of State invite me to be a member of its new “Kitchen Cabinet” as part of the Diplomatic Culinary Partnership — an initiative developed with JBF to promote American cuisine and ingredients around the globe. In celebration, I traveled to Washington, D.C., with four members of the ACF Young Chefs Club, who helped prepare a meal for those in attendance. Food is the vehicle to bring people together, and this new program proves that!

The future truly is now: Being a leader is important, especially if we want ACF to spearhead the charge in helping not only our industry but also the people within it evolve. The legendary Dolly Parton had a great quote last year that I’m going to borrow: “If your actions create a legacy that inspires others to dream more, learn more, do more and become more, then you are an excellent leader.”

Let’s go!

Kimberly Brock Brown, CEPC, CCA, AAC National President, American Culinary Federation

Contact

¡La primavera está a punto de florecer!

En esta época del año pasa de todo: El mes de la historia de la mujer y el mes nacional de la nutrición en marzo, así como también importantes días festivos como la pascua y la pascua judía en abril. ¡Y estoy súper entusiasmada por la ACF National Qualifier y las demás competencias que se vienen!

Esta es una edición especial para mí, porque se enfoca en los estudiantes y en algo que me apasiona: enseñar y acompañar a la próxima generación de chefs. Lean el artículo principal (en la página 26) que habla sobre este tema. Conozcan los testimonios de chefs con gran experiencia, quienes hablan sobre lo que están haciendo para atraer y retener talento, así como también los nuevos graduados culinarios, que nos cuentan qué es lo que buscan en posibles empleadores. Pasen a la pág. 22 para leer sobre los dos ganadores del premio ACF Student Chef of the Year 2022, quienes presentaron excelentes trabajos y comenzaron sus carreras. También hay algo de cobertura del Equipo Estudiantil del Año 2022 de la ACF (pág. 31).

Si nunca antes han sido mentores de un chef más joven, consideren hacerlo. Elijan uno o dos chefs que trabajen con ustedes y que sean verdaderos emprendedores. No hay nada más gratificante que compartir e impartir nuestros conocimientos y recetas con los demás. Pregunten a sus chefs qué plan tienen para dentro de dos años, dentro de cinco años o más. Además, esto no era tan común en el pasado, pero me resulta útil capacitar al personal para que las personas puedan aprender diferentes trabajos en la cocina y ayudarse más entre sí, especialmente en medio de los desafíos laborales actuales. Este tipo de formación también permite crear una cultura de aprendizaje, crecimiento y compromiso.

La colaboración es clave, ya sea entre profesores y alumnos, entre chefs o incluso entre organizaciones. Es por eso que me he centrado tanto en colaborar con otros grupos como la Fundación James Beard (JBF) para crear más conciencia sobre la ACF. El mes pasado tuve el gran honor de que el Departamento de Estado de los EE.UU. me invitara a ser miembro de su nuevo "Gabinete de cocina" como parte de la Asociación Culinaria Diplomática, una iniciativa desarrollada con JBF para promover la cocina y los ingredientes estadounidenses en todo el mundo. Para celebrar, viajé a Washington, D.C. junto con cuatro miembros del Club de Jóvenes Chefs de la ACF, quienes me ayudaron a preparar una comida para los asistentes. La comida es el vehículo para unir a las personas, ¡y este nuevo programa lo demuestra!

El futuro ya llegó, y es un hecho: es importante ser líderes, en especial si queremos que la ACF encabece la lucha para contribuir a la evolución tanto de nuestra industria como de las personas que la integran. La legendaria Dolly Parton dijo algo muy interesante el año pasado, así que tomaré prestada su cita: “Si tus acciones dejan un legado que inspira a otros a soñar más, aprender más, hacer más y convertirse en más, eso significa que eres un excelente líder”.

¡Adelante!