Opening Day

How a busy ACF Chef and Culinary Team USA member opened his first restaurant

By Howard Riell

Adecade-long career as a respected culinary educator and a place on the 2024 ACF Culinary Team USA apparently left ACF Chef Ted Polfelt, CEC, CCA, CEPC, AAC, too much free time — so he decided to open a restaurant.

“It has always been a goal of mine,” Chef Polfelt says. “I grew up in the restaurant business, and I have always loved it. It has changed so much since I started, in a lot of ways for the better. I want to foster that same passion that I learned when I started, create an environment that I would feel comfortable for my own kids to work in, and create a good work-life balance for our staff. I want them to have great pride in what we are doing. I always kind of joke that opening this was like having a baby; there is no perfect time, but when it’s time, it’s time.”

Called Brood Restaurant and Bar and located in Salem, Virginia, the concept is Southern-inspired modern American with a European influence. “When we were first designing the menu I wanted most of it to be naturally gluten-free,” Chef Polfelt says. “My oldest daughter has celiac disease, and I have always tried to teach her to eat naturally for her dietary restrictions.”

The doors opened in July with ACF Chef Josh Wasky, CSC, CWPC, helming the kitchen on a day-to-day basis. The dining room seats about 40, and there is a two-seat bar with three cocktail tables. Notable on the menu are such dishes as chicken schnitzel with grits, collard greens, Alabama sauce and pickled mustard seeds; and braised short ribs with horseradish crumb, mustard jus, white cheddar mashed potatoes and broccoli with parmesan and lemon.

The process took 10 months. “We were fortunate enough to fall into a beautiful space,” Chef Polfelt says. “The previous restaurant that was there, Blue Apron and Red Rooster Bar, was a staple in Salem, and was left in great condition. When we looked at the space we knew we had to do it, no matter the timing. My partner, Crenshaw (Reed), and I have opened several restaurants with our former restaurant group, so we already had a checklist and some experience with that part. My wife (Lindsay), who is also a part owner, handled a lot of clerical work that, to be honest, is not the strongest part of my game.”

The previous owners had kept roosters in various places around the restaurant, so Chef Polfelt says that’s where the name comes from: “brood, meaning a family of chickens. Some of our family members worked there, and (that is) the connection that we wanted to have with the wonderful community of Salem.”

Chef Polfelt advises colleagues who also dream of opening their own restaurants to make sure to “have the experience so that you know what you are doing. It can be a lot. I would just say do the work: work for other people so that you can see different ways that people operate, from front of house, back of house, processing paperwork, etc. Then decide how you want to do it. But you cannot replace the experience of working in the industry with professionals. There is always something to learn. Be humble. If you don't have a passion for it, you are in it for the wrong reasons.”

Balancing the restaurant with his teaching position and his spot on Team USA calls for dexterity — and assistance. “I am blessed to have a lot of great people around me,” Chef Polfelt says, “my wife and family especially. Team USA has been a phenomenal experience. I never in my wildest dreams thought that I would be fortunate enough to be involved with so many brilliant and legendary chefs from all over the country, from my teammates to coaches and advisors. It is hard work, but anything that is worth it always is.”

He is quick to point out that “balance doesn’t mean that everything is always in balance. Sometimes you have to put in extra time with the team, or the restaurant or family. It all happens, but knowing that it is OK, and then having the knowledge that it all has to swing back to maintain that balance” is important.

One challenge for anyone operating a restaurant is recruiting and retaining staff. “I think right now you have to pay professionals what they are worth,” Chef Polfelt says. “You get what you pay for in many instances.”

“We are dedicated as a company to providing an environment in which people can have a good worklife balance,” he continues. “Right now we are only open for five days a week, just for dinner service. We could be open more to drive profit, but we want to make sure that everyone gets two days off a week, at least. We always want to be a place where professionals work. Everyone has to be respectful, professional and hospitality-driven. Not all places are like that, but that is what we want at Brood.”