4 minute read
CHOCOLATE FEVER
from National Culinary Review (January/February 2024)
by National Culinary Review (an American Culinary Federation publication)
An ACF Pastry Chef and ACF Culinary Team USA advisor talks shop about owning her own chocolate business
// By ACF Chef Robert Wemischner
If you ask ACF Chef Susan Notter, CEPC, AAC , her favorite part of being a pastry chef, she says this: “Whatever I am doing at the moment. I have loved all of the different segments of the business.” Whether competing or coaching hopefuls in world pastry competitions, teaching, creating a sugar masterpiece fantasy or designing a full line of delectable products for her retail business, Chef Notter has a career that has spanned the gamut.
Today, she offers customers high-quality chocolate and confections at her two-year-old retail shop, Elizabeth Moore Chocolates, near Birmingham, Ala. “I have quite a unique store for the area so even though some may find my flavors somewhat mainstream, I also have fun with a bit more edgy combinations in my chocolate like chestnut mandarin and chai latte toffee apple,” Chef Notter says. “Around New Year’s last year my theme was infusing cocktail- and spirit-inspired flavors in my chocolates.” Apple and pear martini, espresso with Bailey’s, and truffles flavored with white port wine headed the list.
“In my shop, I find myself introducing taste experiences to many who are new to high-quality chocolate,” says Chef Notter, who often uses Felchlin Swiss chocolate. She previously served as corporate pastry chef for the chocolate maker, designing dessert programs, troubleshooting, and helping pastry chefs around the country to maximize their usage of top-quality chocolate. “I am gratified to find that customers have begun to seek single-origin chocolate bars. This is just one of the many perks of owning my own shop and a yardstick by which I measure my success. I get to exercise creative freedom and re-explore here many roles I have played throughout my career.”
For example, playing off her education background, Chef Notter has developed a series of three-hour classes given three times per month in the shop to enthusiastic audiences. Through these classes, Chef Notter finds that her customers gain a deeper appreciation of the processes, ingredients and price involved in creating unique high-quality products.
As the owner of a small business in a small town, she has found that prized balance between life and work. “I know that I will never be a millionaire and instead choose to divide my time between running the shop and getting away to work toward being a judge for competitions,” says Chef Notter, who is the pastry advisor for ACF’s Culinary Team USA due to compete in the IKA/Culinary Olympics in Stuttgart, Germany, in February. “I suggest that pastry chefs in training compete at the local level and do as many live competitions as possible to gain confidence. It’s only from experience that you will learn.”
Chef Notter’s Chocolate-Making Tips
To enhance shelf life – Reduce water activity through sugar choice. Using a blend of dextrose, low DE glucose and sorbitol sugars “prevents crystallization and creates a smoother, creamier product.”
To maintain flavor – “Use good quality ingredients — that’s paramount to making good chocolate.” Chef Notter prefers single-origin chocolates and couvertures with a strong flavor profile to start. “I like the 88% Venezuela couverture because it has some nice fruit notes with a little bit of cinnamon.”
To create a smooth texture – Process the melted chocolate on low with half of the cream-sugar mixture for a few minutes until the ganache breaks and is grainy. “Then re-emulsify with the rest of the liquid until smooth and shiny.”
Chef Notter’s Chocolate-Making Tips
To enhance shelf life – Reduce water activity through sugar choice. Using a blend of dextrose, low DE glucose and sorbitol sugars “prevents crystallization and creates a smoother, creamier product.”
To maintain flavor – “Use good quality ingredients — that’s paramount to making good chocolate.” Chef Notter prefers single-origin chocolates and couvertures with a strong flavor profile to start. “I like the 88% Venezuela couverture because it has some nice fruit notes with a little bit of cinnamon.”
To create a smooth texture – Process the melted chocolate on low with half of the cream-sugar mixture for a few minutes until the ganache breaks and is grainy. “Then re-emulsify with the rest of the liquid until smooth and shiny.”
Get Chef Notter's recipe on acfchefs.org/recipes
