NA ALL DAY

Putting the craft in spirit-free cocktails

By Mike Kostyo

Non-alcoholic beverages are booming. “The latest drinking trend is alcohol-free,” exclaimed a CNN headline in April. A Wall Street Journal article from earlier this year called Athletic Brewing’s core product “the hottest beer in America,” noting that the non-alcoholic brand is the top-selling beer at Whole Foods, outselling even the alcoholic versions.

The trend is driven by Gen Z, which is drinking 20% less than millennials (a generation that already drank less than previous generations), according to a World Finance report. Part of the trend is driven by social media, where young consumers see health influencers decrying the negative impacts of alcohol and users freely sharing stories of how and why they quit drinking. Others have moved on to cannabis, taking advantage of changing state laws across the country.

So, with so many consumers seeking out more nonalcoholic options, how do you launch and sustain a successful spirit-free program?

First, decide what to call the drinks. Non-alcoholic (or NA), spirit-free, zero-proof no-ABV — these beverages go by a lot of names. Current naming trends are less focused on what to call the drinks than what not to call them — anything but mocktail, which has a negative connotation that many bartenders prefer to stay away from. “For many people, that term makes a mockery of their decision to not imbibe and creates more stigma around sobriety and mindful drinking by insinuating that drink is less than, fake or a sham,” says Amie Ward , a veteran bartender and consultant who goes by the name The Healthtender. Ward says any of the other monikers are safe to use, but she also suggests having fun with the name — “A side” and “B side” for a music-centric concept, or “oui” and “non” for a French restaurant.

Whatever name you choose, crafting a complex, attention-getting drink is essential to winning over consumers and commanding premium prices — mixing together a few juices in a shaker isn’t going to cut it. Luckily, many of the same ingredients and techniques found in traditional alcoholic beverages can be cross-utilized in spirit-free versions — housemade syrups and tinctures, fresh-squeezed juices, shrubs, vinegars and unique garnishes all have a place in non-alcoholic drinks. Indeed, Gen Z’s love of unique cold beverages (think boba teas and dirty sodas) give today’s chefs more permission to experiment, while on-trend drinks like tepache, kombucha, unique espresso beverages, etc., can be a starting point for NA beverage innovation.

Like their alcoholic cousins, NA drinks are also free to feature flavors beyond sweet, getting more tart, bitter and savory through the use of herbs, spices, veggies and some of the artisan NA “spirits” available on the market today from brands like Seedlip, Ghia, St. Agrestis and Ritual. “I have always enjoyed drinking and creating savory and bitter cocktails, so you can catch me building spirit-free creations with things like mushroom tea, nutritional yeast, silken/ soft tofu, dandelion, coffee, bitter melon and more,” says Ward.

Many of these ingredients and drinks also lend a functional benefit that increases the value proposition of a beverage. While alcoholic beverages mainly have one functional benefit (letting loose), spirit-free drinks can offer a wide range of functions — stress relief, mental acuity, energy, etc. Ward mentions functional ingredients like lion’s mane mushrooms, green tea, valerian root, lavender, ginger and turmeric as options she likes to see in nonalcoholic beverages (and she says many ready-todrink THC and CBD beverages on the market also feature these functional ingredients, for those who are interested in that category).

At the end of the day, a well-crafted NA drink that shows a bartender’s skill and creativity, incorporating lots of flavor play and an eye-catching build, should win over even the most stubborn spirit-free skeptic. And for those customers who need that final nudge, a free sample almost always seals the deal. “I’d gladly give them one of my favorite spirit-free majesties on the house to let it speak for itself!” says Ward.

"I HAVE ALWAYS ENJOYED DRINKING AND CREATING SAVORY AND BITTER COCKTAILS, SO YOU CAN CATCH ME BUILDING SPIRITFREE CREATIONS WITH THINGS LIKE MUSHROOM TEA, NUTRITIONAL YEAST, SILKEN/SOFT TOFU, DANDELION, COFFEE, BITTER MELON AND MORE."

A non-alcoholic (NA) drink as the term goes to replace “mocktail” with grapefruit and rosemary.

Click here for more stories from the Sept/Oct 2024 issue of National Culinary Review, published by the American Culinary Federation.