BREEZE JUNE 2018
INTO THE BLUE Life’s a Beach
/ CITY EXPLORATIONS /
/ ON THE BUCKET LIST /
/ A WORLD OF WINE /
10 Reasons You’ve Got to Visit Verona, North Italy
Tel Aviv: Where Old Meets New
Along the Cyprus Wine Trail
Editor’s Letter The Sizzling Launch Issue Hot days, balmy nights, sunny skies and beaches that dreams are made of, it all sums up the long summers in Cyprus. All this, and a very exciting first issue of the new Cyprus Airways magazine following the re-launch of the airline last year! And our team – blessed (or slightly cursed) with itchy feet and an insatiable travel bug – have been busy trying to make every page as inspiring as possible. Lucky for us, it hasn’t been too hard, we only needed to look out to sea for inspiration to strike. If you’re landing down on the island in the midst of summer, you’ll no doubt be yearning to cool off as you lay down those beach towels on powdery sands. Νo matter what your beach style, we’ve got you covered on pages 20-27. Those of you, who are a bit like me, and can’t sit still for too long, will surely be dying to dig beneath the surface. Venture beyond the sandy shores where a different side to Cyprus awaits: one where towering slopes provide a playground for mountain bikers and rocky peaks give climbers the ultimate adrenaline rush. It’s a wild world out there and adventure awaits round every turn… or every flick of the page: 66-69. Head inland towards the revamped old town of the island’s capital, where thousands of years of history meet all things modern in a fascinating medley of cool bars, sleek restaurants, hip galleries and curious shops. Encircled by grandiose Venetian walls, pages 40-45 provide a local glimpse of where to indulge in cool cocktail heaven, sit back for a foodie feast, or head to for a spot of sightseeing in the maze of winding streets that beguile and bedazzle. Dreaming of a summer romance? Join us on a journey through pretty Verona (pages 28-32). Fixated on all things hip and happening? Tel Aviv – rightly called the Manhattan of the Med – should scratch that itch (pages 60-61). Looking for a fabulous room in one of the prettiest cities in Europe? We scoured Prague to find the best place to stay in sophisticated style (page 46). We hope we’ve inspired you and look forward to welcoming you back on board a Cyprus Airways flight very soon. Happy travels!
Zoe Christodoulides, Editor
EDITOR’S LETTER / 3
Contents �: �: ¹ �:
Editor’s Letter Greetings from the editor.
Welcome to Cyprus Airways An overview of who we are.
Ask the Pilot! Captain Andreas Georgiou fills us in on his favourite destinations and more.
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Hot Summer Rhythms
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Life’s a Beach
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The best summer music festivals in Cyprus to keep you on your toes through the season.
From quiet coves to happening strips, beach-side paradise beckons in Cyprus.
10 Reasons You’ve Got to Visit Verona, North Italy Living ‘la dolce vita’ in one of Italy’s most romantic cities.
Published by: Action PR and Publications Ltd, part of Action Global Communications 6 Kondilaki Street, 1090 Nicosia, Cyprus Tel: +357 22 818 884 publishing@actionprgroup.com www.actionprgroup.com
4 / CONTENTS
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Along the Cyprus Wine Trail
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Nicosia Uncovered
Popping open the best bottles at mustvisit wineries around the country.
Where to dine, drink, shop and more, like a local in the buzzing capital.
This magazine was published on behalf of: Cyprus Airways 1 Spartis Street, Antoniou Building, 6th Floor 6025 Larnaca, Cyprus Tel: +357 24 020976
Publisher • Chris Christodoulou General Manager • Dimitris Ioannides Chief Editor • Zoe Christodoulides Coordination • Effie Roussou Senior Designer • Gabriela Constantinou
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A Room to Remember…in Prague Get cosy for the night in one of the city’s most beautiful rooms.
A Scoop of the Best The lowdown on where to indulge in the finest artisan ice cream in Cyprus.
Cyprus from Above An alternative photographic glimpse of the island from the air.
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Tel Aviv: Where Old Meets New
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Reaching for the Stars
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Adventure Island
A glimpse of what’s hot, in hip and happening Tel Aviv.
Sibling architects make their vision reality with futuristic Troodos star observatory.
The adrenaline junkies’ ultimate guide to Cyprus.
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Contributors Alexander Davidian • Emily Millett • Alix Norman Matthew Stowell Photographer Antonis Farmakas Photography (pages 6-8, 10, 12, 14, 48-52, 76) Emma Louise Charalambous (pages 40-45)
Print Production Cassoulides Masterprinters Advertising sales Kiki Haida - kiki.haida@cyprusairways.com @ Copyright: Action Global Communications 2018
Travel in Style 5 cool & quirky travel accessories
Cyprus Airways Info The lowdown on all our destinations and routes.
While every effort is made to ensure that the contents are correct at the time of publication, neither the publisher nor Cyprus Airways accept responsibility for omissions or errors. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the publisher’s permission. Cyprus Airways and its publishers do not accept responsibility for the advertising content or for the return of unsolicited manuscripts or images.
CONTENTS / 5
Welcome to Cyprus Airways Who we are Established in 2016 and based at Larnaca International Airport, Cyprus Airways launched operations in June 2017, holding the trademark of the island’s national carrier. The relaunch of Cyprus Airways marks a significant milestone, both for the local aviation sector, and the country as a whole.
and reaffirms Cyprus’ strong and positive image abroad. Having built and developed all the necessary infrastructure for a safe and reliable airline, long term goals include promoting the island as a prime holiday and business destination, while increasing inbound tourism.
Having rebranded its visual identity to signify the beginning of a new era, the olive branch – deeply rooted in the identity of Cyprus – has been chosen as the airline’s symbol, while the moufflon has also been maintained as a core part of its identity.
Currently flying to ten destinations (namely Athens, Tel Aviv, Beirut, Prague, Verona, Zurich, Munich, Stuttgart, St Petersburg and Chania), the airline is continually broadening its spectrum of destinations, catering to the travel needs of both locals and incoming tourists.
The revival of the national carrier trademark not only expands and widens the island’s connectivity, but also re-establishes
Ask the pilot! Captain Andreas Georgiou first took off and reached for the skies when training to become a commercial airline pilot in Texas, followed by studies in the UK. But it was long before his studies that he was convinced he wanted to spend his days and nights soaring high above the clouds, recalling an exciting and unforgettable visit into the cockpit at the age of 11. Having joined the Cyprus Airways team six months ago, he lets us in on his favourite destinations and more!
iou
Andreas Georg
Verona
Q: Favourite Cyprus Airways destination to spend a weekend? A: Verona! It’s the city of romance, bringing the story of Romeo
and Juliet to life, and it’s so beautiful, with stunning architecture, exquisite tastes and an excellent climate.
Q: Most enjoyable airport to fly into? A: Amsterdam Schiphol; it’s so huge, with so much going on and great ways to spend your time while waiting for your flight.
Q: Most memorable flight? A: I always love to fly over the Alps. You can never get enough of the view, be it during the summer when everything is green, or when the peaks are covered in winter snow.
Q: Most exciting thing about life as a captain? A: Visiting new destinations, but it’s even more exciting to return to the family.
Q: One country in the world on your 'must-visit' list that you haven't been to yet? A: South Africa looks like such a diverse country; I’ve heard only
the best from everyone who has visited, and seen a lot of great pictures. I would love to go on a safari.
14 / SKY HIGH - ASK THE PILOT
Q: One country in the world on your 'must visit' list that you haven't been to yet? A: South Africa looks like such a diverse country; I’ve heard only the best from everyone who has visited, and seen a lot of great pictures. I would love to go on a safari.
Alps
T E X T BY E M I LY M I L L E T T
Hot Summer Rhythms Let go. Feel the music. Dance barefoot. Lose your inhibitions. Be free. It's summertime in Cyprus and the island has transformed into a hedonistic playground of music festivals. Here are the best of the season.
Ethnic beats: Rialto World Music Festival This unique free open-air music festival in the heart of Limassol sees consistently high-calibre musicians and bands from all over the world bring Heroes Square to life with vibrant sounds and exotic world rhythms. Last year, the line-up featured nextgeneration Buena Vista Social Club, Soneros De Verdad, all the way from Cuba, award-winning Indian classical sarod player, Abishek Lahiri, and internationally acclaimed Italian group, Band Adriatica. As for this year, artists and groups from the world music scene in Italy, France, Greece, Spain, the Middle East and Cyprus will be making an appearance. When: 1-30 July 2018 Where: Heroes Square, Limassol www.cyprusrialtoworldmusic.com
16 / CYPRUS MUSIC FESTIVALS
All about those blues: Sarama Blues Festival Hidden deep in the picturesque Sarama Valley is an otherworldly outdoor music venue that can’t be matched in terms of magical festival-style atmosphere, relaxing, laid back ambience and natural beauty. This year, the stunning Yurts in Cyprus (which also doubles up as a unique and alternative eco-friendly accommodation option), will play host to a selection of Blues musicians from Cyprus and abroad, for the two-day Samara Blues Festival. Bands set to play include Black Anis, The Great Flood and Ravens Reign from Cyprus; and Silesia Blues Group and Pokoj Number 3 from Poland. Limited camping space will be available and food and drinks will be sold on site. When: 15-16 June 2018 Where: Yurts in Cyprus, Sarama Valley, near Simou, Paphos info@yurtsincyprus.com
Pumping up the volume: Living Color Music & Arts Festival Returning for its second edition bigger and better than before, Living Color Music & Arts Festival presents world-class House, Progressive House (EDM), Hip Hop and RnB artists, in a unique interactive and immersive set up on Cyprus’ east coast. With last year’s line-up featuring some of the best known EDM artists worldwide – including headliners Dimitri Vegas & Like Mike, and female DJ duo NERVO – the benchmark has been set high. Organisers are bringing more internationally famous artists to perform, including R3hab, Will Sparks, Thomas Gold and Jaden Bojsen. Crowds can also enjoy mind blowing sound and visual effects, new activities, live art installations, interactive games and quality street food stalls. When: 7 July 2018 Where: Ayia Napa Modern Athletic Centre, Stadiou Street, Ayia Napa www.livingcolorfestival.com
HOT SUMMER RHYTHMS / 17
Vibrant parallel universe: AfroBanana Festival One of the most eagerly anticipated festivals on the island, AfroBanana Festival has earned international recognition as one of Europe’s finest festivals. Why? Perhaps it’s the consistently stellar line up of first-rate local and international bands, musicians and DJs, or the fact that the organisers create a surreal, magical and almost fairy-tale like world for the party to unfold in each year. For 2018, this parallel universe will move from the forest to the beach, offering the ultimate summer festival experience by the sea, where party goers can lose themselves in captivating world sounds from Afrobeat, Jazz, Soul, Hip-Hop and Reggae, to Funk and Post Funk, Disco, Techno, House and more. Headliners will include Ed Davenport, Afrodyssey Orchestra, Mor Elian and Ebo Taylor and The Saltpond City Band! When: 20-22 July 2018 Where: Kiti, Larnaca District 2018.afrobananarepublic.com
Photos: Silvio Augusto Rosmigo /
Let’s get loud: Loud Music Festival (LMF) Bringing the festival vibe into an urban environment, LMF takes place in the centre of Limassol and focuses solely on local talent. The free event covers a wide range of genres, with the first day dedicated to RnB sounds, the second day to EDM and Dance Music, and for the first time this year, the third day will be a tribute to Old School Disco. Running from 5pm-midnight each day, the festival weekend also buzzes with pre-parties and after-parties throughout the city. When: 27-29 July 2018 Where: Potamos of Germasogia parking, Limassol www.loudmusicfestivalcy.com
18 / CYPRUS MUSIC FESTIVALS
A holistic musical experience: Fengaros Festival Pioneers of the three-day outdoor festival concept in Cyprus, Fengaros is now one of the biggest music events on the island and boasts an impressive list of internationallyrenowned past headliners. Award-winning artists such as Fantastic Negrito, Joss Stone and Xylouris White have all graced the stage, as revellers and campers of all nationalities and ages danced under the stars. The exciting line up this year will include Deerhoof, Bazooka, Joan as Police Woman and Tootard. For 2018, the event will move from the mountain village of Kato Drys, down to the coast, taking place by the sea at the Journalist’s Village in Pervolia. When: 2-4 August 2018 Where: Journalists Village, Pervolia, Larnaca www.fengaros.com
Going with the wind: Windcraft Music Festival This cosy event is an intimate celebration of the wonderful, eclectic world of wind instruments, with live concerts, workshops and activities bringing the charming mountain village of Katydata to life each year. The festival encourages interaction and collective music making, inviting visitors to embark on a musical journey full of surprises. The variety of genres is as diverse as it is alternative, ranging from World Jazz and Ethnic Beats, to Balkan Fusion, Electronic and even Classical sounds. Some of the bands that are confirmed for this summer’s event include Captain Stambolov (France), Uriel Herman Quartet (Israel), Chouska Ensemble (Greece), Giannis Koutis Trio (Cyprus-GermanyArmenia) and the ever-popular Windcraft Band (Cyprus). When: 11-12 August 2018 Where: Katydata, Solea valley, Nicosia region www.windcraftmusicfest.com
HOT SUMMER RHYTHMS / 19
TEXT BY ZOE CHRISTODOULIDES
Life’s
20 / INTO THE BLUE
a beach Whether you yearn for lazy days, playing castaway on a secluded cove, are eager to get knee deep in powdery sand with the kids on a family friendly stretch, or are all geared up to unleash energy on a windswept strip, there’s bound to be somewhere to suit your beach style in Cyprus. As vibrant shades of blue dazzle the senses, here is a handpicked selection of where to find your own slice of summer heaven by the seaside.
LIFE’S A BEACH / 21
Best for Extreme Sports
Avdimou Beach, Limassol
Over a slightly bumpy dirt track, through a patchwork of farmland, past mature olive groves and voila: you’ll be at the golden sand stretch known as Avdimou beach. If you’re a little wild at heart and up for adventure – or simply want to get away from it all the with your own umbrella in hand – then this quiet spot beside Limassol’s Avdimou village sets the ideal scene for just your kind of barefoot magic. While it’s often calm and peaceful here, when the wind picks up, the horizon is punctuated with multicoloured kites as avid sporty types touch the clouds. On calmer days, the light sea breeze makes for an idyllic day out, while nearby fish taverns will enthuse gastronomes with fresh catch of the day.
Best for solitude
Lara Bay, Akamas Penisula
A haven for intrepid travellers and nature lovers, the Akamas peninsula defiantly juts out into the deep blue in all its unspoilt glory, as deep valleys, caves and gorges paint a picture of intoxicating beauty. One of the best spots on the island to claim your very own slice of rural paradise – stretching across approximately 230 square km on the far west of the island – it’s best to rent a 4×4 to get here, or head out on an organised safari tour to explore the area. And if you want to dip your toes in the best waters of the area, head to Lara Bay; a golden slice of perfection fringed with wild greenery. With its sands home to the green and loggerhead turtles that arrive to lay their eggs in the summer months, you’ll no doubt be making friends with the little creatures in this strip of untouched wilderness. Just be sure to keep quiet so as not to disrupt their peace.
22 / INTO THE BLUE
Best for walking
Finikoudes Palm Tree Promenade, Larnaca
A central Larnaca hot-spot and real city landmark with its towering palms, tourists and locals alike descend here for a morning or late afternoon stroll with ice cream in hand along the seafront promenade; a 600-metre shoulder-to-shoulder stretch of cafés, restaurants and bars. History and culture buffs will also be in for a treat at the Medieval Castle (often referred to as the Larnaca Fort), located on the southern end of the strip. Now housing the District Medieval Museum, you’ll come across all sorts of paintings, pottery, and utensils from days gone by. Head up onto the roof for panoramic views across the town and out to sea.
Best for fun
Nissi Beach, Ayia Napa
Famed as one of the best beaches on the island and revered for its placid turquoise waters, Nissi certainly the most hip and happening stretch on the white sand covered east coast, luring partygoers and well-oiled bodies to live it up in the sunshine. Beach bars and cafés blare out the latest House and EDM hits, with a touch of Reggae and Pop also in the mix, while countless water sports entice adrenaline junkies, from ringo rides to parasailing. Made up of two interconnected white sand beaches – one livelier than the other – there’s even a small island you can get to by wading through the shallow waters. And if you do just want to soak up the sun as you take in the buzz around you, there are plenty of sun loungers to kick back and enjoy all the action.
24 / INTO THE BLUE
Aphrodite’s Rock Beach, Paphos
Aphrodite Baths Beach, Chrysohous Bay
Konnos Bay, Ayia Napa
Fig Tree Bay, Protaras
Best for photos Aphrodite’s Rock Beach, Paphos Calling all shutterbugs, the Instagram-worthy Aphrodite’s Rock beach is bound to take your breath away as you get clicking. Famed as the mythological birthplace of Aphrodite, Goddess of Love and Fertility, legend has it that she rose from the waters surrounding the mighty rock that characterises the area. The shore here is pebbled and you can enjoy a swim – but do be careful as the water can often be choppy. Stay on until late afternoon and you may witness one of the most magical sunsets you could wish for, with skies ablaze in a multicoloured palette of red, pink and orange.
Best for snorkeling Aphrodite Baths Beach, Chrysohous Bay Sun worshipping may be high on the agenda when you visit Cyprus, but take a dip underwater and you’ll also be in for a treat. But first, enjoy the walk down the stairs that lead down to Aphrodite Baths Beach at the very start of the Akamas Peninsula and stop mid-way to look out across the wild west coast, speckled with rocky outcrops and blessed with intermittent sandy bays. Combining the best of both worlds, this picture-perfect beach is ideal for kicking back and losing yourselves in the pages of a good book, but once you put on that mask and snorkel, the shallow waters near the rockiest parts of the beach give you the chance to ogle at coral reefs where starfish and sea urchins hide. Also look out for small wrasse, groupers and Poseidon’s meadows.
Best for couples Konnos Bay, Ayia Napa Calm emerald waters, check. Glistening fine sands swooping across the crescent-shaped shoreline, check. Wild rocky peaks blanketed in scented pines, check. Hands down one of the prettiest beaches on the east coast, loved up couples will go gaga over this sheltered sandy bay, with its rugged backdrop and inland greenery adding to the charm. In need of a refreshment? Head up to the café and enjoy views across the bay. Fancy a romantic walk? Put your best foot forward with your other half through surrounding nature trails, best enjoyed in the early morning or late afternoon. As with most beaches on the east coast, this bay can get exceptionally busy during peak summer season, so be sure to get here early to claim a sunbed and umbrella.
Best for families Fig Tree Bay, Protaras Ranked among the Top 25 beaches in the world by TripAdvisor 2018 Travelers’ Choice Award, as well as fourth best in Europe, the shallow iridescent waters here are perfect for the kids to splash about in, while adults can enjoy swimming past the offshore island where the waters get deeper and a little cooler. Situated at one end of the busy Protaras promenade, a walk on dry land offers a world of amenities, home to a plethora of beach bars, restaurants, cafés, shops and hotels. The beach is named after a fig tree that has graced the fine golden sands since the 17th century, and now claims pride of place as the most famous tree of its kind on the island. LIFE’S A BEACH / 27
TEXT BY ZOE CHRISTODOULIDES
28 / CITY EXPLORATIONS
10 Reasons You’ve Got to Visit Verona, North Italy Forget public transport, this vibrant – almost fairy-tale like ancient city is begging to be explored on foot. Up through winding streets, into pretty plazas, past intimate wineries, and across fascinating bridges; romantic Verona is undoubtedly one of North Italy’s most stunning cities to live ‘la dolce vita’ with tonnes of history and culture to boot. Itchy feet wishing to venture further afield are also spoilt for choice; a spectacle of nature awaits with the glistening shores of Lake Garda just a short drive away, while the area’s winegrowing region is a picture-perfect medley of rambling vines and bucolic villages. Here are 10 reasons to add Verona to your holiday bucket list!
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A brush with Shakespeare
Verona is the notorious ‘city of love’ which inspired Shakespeare to write one of his most famous and tragic love stories, Romeo and Juliet. Today, die-hard romantics flock to ‘Casa di Giulietta’ to catch a glimpse of the balcony where Romeo promised Juliet eternal love in Shakespeare’s iconic play. Some go mad about having their photo taken on the famous balcony of the renovated 13th century building, while countless crowds gather inside the courtyard to take a selfie by Juliet’s bronze statue. If you’d rather stay away from swarms of tourists and their cameras, then you can skip this visit; there are plenty of other magical spots in the city to create your own romantic love story. VERONA / 29
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Outstanding history & architecture
With Roman ruins around every corner and sites from the Romanesque period, Middle Ages and Renaissance era vying for attention, historic and architectural hot-spots in Verona are endless. First up is the Teatro Romano, set against a hill side commanding splendid views of the city. On your way up the hill, prepare to spot altars, inscriptions dedicated to the gods, marble decorations and beautiful Roman mosaics. And if you do visit in the summer, you can often catch a musical performance here. Verona’s so called ‘living room’ and old government centre – the Piazza dei Signori (also called Piazza Dante) – is also worth a visit, with the imposing statue of Italian poet and author of The Divine Comedy, Dante Alighieri calling out for attention. Nearby, the busy and exceptionally photogenic Piazza delle Erbe is always bustling, with its vibrant market luring crowds and the Madonna Verona Fountain standing proud as the square’s most ancient monument.
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Riverside magic
Fancy a breathtaking walk? There’s nowhere better to enjoy a meander than the fascinating bridges over the Adige, with both the Ponte Scaligero (also called the Ponte di Castelvecchio) and Ponte Pietra bound to take your breath away. The former is celebrated as one of the most wondrous works from the Middle Ages in Verona, with its red-brick walls and soaring arches blown up by German troops in World War II and rebuilt in 1957. The latter is the oldest bridge in Verona, with its Roman arches completed in 100 B.C.
4−
Operatic splendours
Prick up your ears: Verona is synonymous with world class opera! Simply head to the Verona Arena; the majestic and unmissable first century amphitheatre which takes over the beautiful Piazza Bra. The third largest amphitheatre of its kind in Italy, often rated as one of the best in the world, the arena hosts the city’s annual Arena Opera Festival between June to September, luring thousands of spectators. It's one of the best opera experiences you could ask for with acoustics to astound you. This summer, scheduled performances include Carmen, Aida, Turandot, Nabucco, The Barber of Seville and more. Find out more by visiting www.arena.it/arena/en.
30 / CITY EXPLORATIONS
5−
Romantic garden rambles
A place of inspiration for Mozart, it is also reputed that Goethe spent time meandering through this striking greenery. And legend has it that those in love will stay together forever if they find each other in the gardens’ labyrinth. Located just outside the main part of town, the sculpted gardens were designed in
the 16th century, and today, are one of the best places to enjoy views of Verona from the look out spot at the back. A perfectly manicured example of Renaissance landscaping, Cypress trees rise up to touch the skies, while age-old fountains and ancient inscriptions add to the charm.
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Impressive art
Love Renaissance art? You’ll be blown away by Verona. Make a beeline for the Castelvecchio Museum where a vast civic art collection is housed within a stunning medieval castle with fantastic views across the river Adige. Take in the impressive architecture from the outside, before stepping inside the museum designed by modernist architect Carlo Scarpa, and get swept away on a journey back in time with paintings, weapons, sculptures and more.
VERONA / 31
7−
Tantalising regional food & wine It’s common knowledge that taste buds are in for a treat in Italy, and you’ll certainly be spoilt for choice in Verona, whether you’re after budget nibbles or fine dining. But wherever you choose to pull up a chair, be sure to indulge in local treats, such as the risotto al tastasal (with a salami dressing) or the famous polenta; a type of ‘porridge’ made with corn – enjoy it hot and creamy with cheese, mushrooms or wild game. And there’s nothing like a good glass of wine to wash it all down, with some fine varieties sourced from the district around Verona including the ruby red Amarone; a complex spicy red wine once reserved for royals made from partially dried grapes. The Valpolicella classic – a delicate bouquet reminiscent of bitter almond – is another must-try, while the Bardolino partners perfectly with almost any local dish.
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Rolling hills & vineyards
Speaking of fine wines, nothing beats traversing Valpolicella – the traditional wine producing region northwest of Verona. Here, vineyards dotted with cypress and olive trees make way for villages steeped in culture that defy the hands of time with majestic villas standing as elegant masterpieces of classical architecture.
32 / CITY EXPLORATIONS
Many visitors choose to head here by car, and then rent a bicycle. Cycle through well marked trails that lead past prime wineries and traditional trattorias, where home cooking is the name of the day. Find out more on valpolicellaweb.com.
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Time out by Lake Garda
If you just want to get away from it all, head out to idyllic Lake Garda by car, bus or train. The lake’s glistening waters are bordered by Alpine peaks to the north and surrounded by picturesque villages and lovely little towns. Be sure to visit Malcesine with its cobbled lanes and castle backed by a tremendous mountain ridge, Monte Baldo.
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You can even hop on a cable car up to its highest heights! Limone is another picturesque resort commanding pride of place on the shores of Lake Garda, with the little lanes of its town centre set against rocky cliffs. Sirmione is also worth adding to the bucket list, home to natural hot springs.
Venetian escapes
Evocative Venice is only a 90-minute train ride away. And you’ll be spoilt for choice once you get there. A tour through the winding network of canals (especially Canal Grande) in an iconic gondola should be top of the list. For a bird’s eye view of the city, head up the tallest building, the landmark Campanile di San Marco. When the hunger pangs kick in, delight the palate at a backstreet ‘bacari’ and devour a selection of local treats offering an authentic taste of Venice. Try ‘folpeto consi’ (baby octopus in vinaigrette), ‘sardelle in saor’ (fried sardines marinated in vinegar and onions), ‘polpettine’ (Venetian meatballs) and much more. And whatever you do, don’t miss the Piazza San Marco, once described by Napoleon as the ‘drawing room of Europe’ – just get here early to avoid the hordes of tourists.
Cyprus Airways flies to Verona twice a week
TEXT BY MATTHEW STOWELL
Along the Cyprus Wine Trail Recent research on clay wine jars found near the village of Erimi has revealed that Cypriots were making wine a whopping 6,000 years ago, placing Cyprus first among European countries to vinify grapes. It’s just one more entry in the Mediterranean island’s list of wine firsts, following the designation of Commandaria, the indigenous dessert elixir, as the world’s oldest named wine still in production. Once celebrated by King Richard the Lionheart as “the wine of kings and the king of wines” at his 12th century Limassol wedding, Commandaria also won first prize at the world’s first international wine competition in 1224. Thousands of years later, Cyprus wine has regained its noble status, winning Gold and Silver medals all over the world following a renaissance which began in the 1980s. 34 / A WORLD OF WINE
Quality and professionalism have been improving steadily year after year, and new money further facilitates the growth of dozens of quality-driven boutique wineries dotted around the island’s undulating wine producing region. Stretching from Limassol to Paphos and beyond, rambling vines blanket the slopes of the Troodos mountains and there’s no better way to learn about the country’s wine than a fine tasting and learning experience at the source. Here’s a look at must-visit wineries in each of the island’s winemaking districts, beyond the city centres and through roads less travelled, uncovering the true beauty and unique character of Cyprus.
Paphos
Paphos District Vasilikon Winery, Kathikas
“ What has always been important for us, is that our wine is consistently enjoyable and that all Cypriots can afford it.”
- Giannis Kyriakides, owner & winemaker
K & K Vasilikon, one of Cyprus’ first local wineries, began in 1993 out of a rustic stone-built shed outside the picturesque village of Kathikas, about 20 kilometers north of the city of Paphos and a mere 20 minutes’ drive away from the stunning Akamas peninsula, on the far western tip of the island. For many years, Vasilikon produced only three wines: Cyprus’ bestselling red, Agios Onoufrios (a blend of six varieties), Vasilikon from the ubiquitous, always refreshing local Xinisteri grape, and the premier, Methy; a collectible Cabernet Sauvignon with great ageing potential. In 2010, a young female oenologist was hired, and together, the team produced an excellent Rosé (winner of the 2011 ‘Women & Wines of the World’ international competition in Monaco). Recently, they have added Lefkada, a deep rich red (Morokanela), from a full-bodied, native white grape, and Aeon, made from the iconic Cypriot red variety, Maratheftiko. All of these wines are excellent and none of them will put a noticeable dent in your wallet.
The stone shed is still in use but a modern state-of-the-art facility, in addition to the winemaking cellars, now houses a tasting room and lounge (open Monday – Saturday, 9am to 6pm), a wine museum (don’t miss the corkscrew collection), and a large reception area for social functions. Group tours should be reserved in advance. Where to next? Unleash the explorer inside you and head to the Akamas Peninsula for a walk through an area of wild untouched natural beauty. To cool off, take a plunge in the deep blue before stopping off at the nearby Baths of Aphrodite and the adjoining botanic garden. Legend has it that the Goddess Aphrodite used to bathe in these waters. Other Paphos wineries well worth a visit include Fikardos (Mesogi), Vouni Panagia (Panagia), Kolios (Statos-Agios Fotios) and Nelion (Praitori). Vasilikon Winery - Kathikas, Paphos Tel: +357 26 633999 www.vasilikon.com ALONG THE CYPRUS WINE TRAIL / 35
Limassol
Limassol District Argyrides Vasa Winery, Vasa
“ I like everything to run with precision, from the vineyard to the production. It’s a
lot of work, but when you produce a wine that has quality and your customers are happy with it, that’s the most important thing.” - Rebecca Argyrides, owner & winemaker
The vineyards of Argyrides are thought to be Cyprus’ most fertile, graced with the perfect micro-climate for growing superior grapes. Housed in a beautiful 200-year-old estate in the pretty, narrow-laned village of Vasa, this winery is overseen by fifth generation winemaker Rebecca Argyrides, whose oenologist/consultant is the highly respected, California-trained Sophocles Vlassides. Together, they make limited quantities of fine wine, including an intriguing Viognier (a French white varietal), an extraordinarily flavourful Chardonnay, an intense rendering of Mourvedre (known locally as Mataro), a Merlot/ Cabernet Sauvignon blend that pleases in every decadent way, and a marvellous Maratheftiko that demands to be enjoyed with ‘kleftiko’ (lamb slow-cooked in a clay oven), ‘souvla’ (spit-roasted pork) or steak. Because yearly production is only 25,000 bottles, tastings of two wines accompanied by local cheeses and village bread are offered for a nominal fee on Saturdays only, from 10am to 1pm (and other days by appointment)
36 / A WORLD OF WINE
except in August and September. Group tours including a personal guide through the winemaking process from harvest to finish can be arranged by reservation. Argyrides wines are found in fine dining venues all over the island, but for home consumption, it’s best to purchase them on site. Where to next? Nearby sites to see include the ancient caves of Osios Varnavas and Agios Timonas, Evangelismos church and the lovely cobblestone village of Omodos, three kilometers to the north. Other important Limassol wineries in the area include Zambartas (Agios Amvrosios), Vlassides (Koilani), Agia Mavri (Koilani), Tsiakkas (Pelendri) and Kyperounta (Kyperounta). Argyrides Vasa Winery - Vasa village, Limassol district Tel: +357 25 945999 www.vasawinery.com
Nicosia
Nicosia District Aes Ambelis, Kalo Chorio
“ All our vineyards are managed with extra care
using environmentally friendly farming practices.” - George Tripatsas, owner & winemaker
Aes Ambelis was founded on a wing and a prayer in 1992 by an economist, a philosopher/poet and an iconoclast Cretan agriculturalist. Located on a slope of the Pitsilia Mountains, it is now operated exclusively by George Tripatsas (the economist) and two resident oenologists who produce a substantial, ever-changing range of accessible, very popular wines at reasonable prices. The winemaking facilities, barrel room, tasting room and reception are all housed in a uniquely designed, domed building that features a large impressive skylight of glass and multi-coloured woods. “We began the winery,” says George, “determined that we could create wines with classic continental grapes plus our own indigenous varieties that would eventually be able to compete with the wines of France, Italy and Spain. I’m happy to say that along with many of my Cypriot winemaker colleagues, we have done just that.” Aes Ambelis wines have won numerous international awards, including a Gold medal from Decanter magazine for its Commandaria, first produced in
2013, with a white lacework label inspired by the artisans of Lefkara village. The winery is open all year for public visits and tastings, Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm and Saturdays by appointment. Be sure to sample their bright, pleasingly acidic Rosé and their Morokanella, a richly complex dry white – both refreshing quaffs for the warm summer months. Where to next? Take a step back in time in the near-abandoned 18th century village of Fikardou, home to one of the oldest traditional wine presses in Cyprus. Ogle at the well-preserved houses and step into the village museum for a glimpse of rural items used in days of old. If time allows, head to the nearby Machairas Monastery; situated at an altitude of 870 metres on the slopes of Mount Kionia in a picturesque spot of the Machairas Mountains. Aes Ambelis - Kalo Chorio, Nicosia district Tel: +357 99 651361/+357 99 835663 www.aesambelis.com ALONG THE CYPRUS WINE TRAIL / 37
Larnaca
Larnaca District Dafermou Winery, Lefkara
“ Deep knowledge and use of up-to-date technology combined with more traditional and conventional wine-making methods leads to the production of high-quality wines.”
- Savvas Fakoukakis, owner & chief winemaker
Just a few metres south of the justly famous village of Lefkara, Dafermou Winery extends quite naturally from the side of a hill like a giant ledge of shale. The design of the building tells us a great deal about its owner and the wine he creates. It is modern and individualistic, yet it fits in harmoniously with the landscape or, in this case, the terroir. Savvas Fakoukakis was making wine in his native Crete before moving to Cyprus more than 25 years ago. In terms of winemaking, he is a firm believer in keeping things small and simple. He makes only four wines; a red, a rosé, a white, and a limited edition Assyrtiko with vines imported from Santorini. The red and the rosé both blend the Maratheftiko and Shiraz grapes to create seriously enjoyable wines, while the white is a highly successful international triumvirate of Chardonnay, Assyrtiko and Xinisteri. All three are served as house wines at the restaurants of the Four Seasons in Limassol, one of the island’s top hotels. The Assyrtiko, a ‘Selection’ white 38 / A WORLD OF WINE
(available only on site), was awarded a rating of 90 from Decanter magazine, and last year, it won a Silver medal at the prestigious Thessalonika Wine and Spirits Competition. Tastings and tours are available Monday to Saturday (4pm – 9pm) but it’s best to book ahead as the winery hosts many weddings and social functions. Where to next? Take a stroll through Pano Lefkara village, famous for handmade lace and silverwork rivalling the beauty of its streets and houses, before visiting Agios Minas monastery near Kato Drys. Other Larnaca vineyards making quality wine: Ktima Christoudias (Kato Drys). Dafermou winery - Lefkara village, Larnaca district Tel: 70 008 373 www.dafermouwinery.com
Local Festivals Featuring Wine July 2-3
Traditional Festival of Sotira Featuring various artistic events, dancing, singing, gastronomy and an exhibition of Cypriot professions. Sotira village (near Ayia Napa) - Famagusta District. Tel: +357 23 824444
August 31 - 10Sept
Limassol Wine Festival One of the major cultural events of the year, featuring exhibits, music, theatrical performances and free wine straight from the barrel. Limassol Municipal Gardens. Tel: +357 25 745919 /+357 25 342153, www.limassolmunicipal.com.cy
September 8
Orange Festival Food and drink stalls offering local products made from oranges (liqueur, beer, marmalade). Miliou village, 26 kilometres north of Paphos, not far from Kathikas. Tel: +357 99 450394
23
Festival of Statos Featuring wine tastings, winery visits, preparation of traditional products, and a traditional cultural programme with musical band “Dias” and the dancing group “Afroditi”. Village square, Statos-Agios Fotios Village - Paphos.
30 - 7Oct
Grape Feast, in Arsos (Sept 30) and Koilani (Oct 7) Featuring various events dedicated to wine and its products, including wine tasting and entertainment (folk music and dances, revival of old traditional customs). Arsos and Koilani - Limassol District. Tel: +357 25 421020 /+357 99 352547
October 7
Afamia Grape Festival Inviting all to celebrate the wine-producing heritage of the beautiful village and the end of harvest. Guests can enjoy wine tasting par excellence, traditional desserts made from grapes, folk dancing and other cultural performances. Koilani village - Limassol District. Tel: +357 25 421020 /+357 99 352547 ALONG THE CYPRUS WINE TRAIL / 39
TEXT BY ZOE CHRISTODOULIDES
NICOSIA
40 / LIKE A LOCAL
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NICOSIA UNCOVERED / 41
Do like the locals and grab a chair outside a buzzing coffee shop, immerse yourselves in the hubbub – most likely punctuated by the sound of dice hitting a backgammon board – order a cool frothy frappé, and you’ll be well on your way to embracing local life. Nicosia may be a buzzing modern capital, but there’s always time to kick back under sunny skies and take it easy in true Mediterranean style. And when you want to get moving, there’s plenty to provide inspiration, with evocative tales to intrigue the senses at ancient sites, delectable dishes to devour in modern eateries that breathe new life into historic buildings, creative cocktails to savour in slick bars enjoying international acclaim, and prize purchases to be made at hip boutiques. So what are you waiting for? In a place where history and modernity come together in the most inconspicuous fashion, Nicosia calls out to visitors, curious and intrepid, to unpick its secrets and create novel travelling tales.
/ Faneromeni Church and square
Onasagorou Street /
42 / LIKE A LOCAL
Sightseeing splendours For a real feel of local life and a taste of the endless sites to see, take a stroll through the maze of streets that make up Old Nicosia, encircled by the grandiose Venetian walls once used as fortification, with its heartshaped bastions dating back to the 18th century. Make a beeline for Faneromeni Church and Square, surrounded by cafés where locals take long sips of coffee. The church presiding over the square was built in 1872, while the area around it forms a modern hub of activity. Take a stroll down the nearby buzzing Ledra and Onasagorou Streets – brimming with cafés, shops, restaurants and bars – and then walk towards the nearby Taktakala and Chryssaliniotissa districts; two delightful residential neighbourhoods brimming with history and culture. Be sure to stroll past the old Nicosia aqueduct; a stone built arched construction dating to the 18th century. Just across the road, you’ll catch a great glimpse of the Venetian walls, and a little further down, you can see what used to be one of the entrance points into the city: Famagusta Gate. Love contemporary architecture? Be sure to check out the impressive Tower 25 high rise, built by world famous architect, Jean Nouvel, just outside the sandstone walls.
Art gazing You’ve seen the sites and now you’re in the mood for some artistic inspiration. But where to? Push through the doors of the A. G. Leventis Gallery (leventisgallery.org) right in the centre of town, near the Makarios Avenue shopping thoroughfare, to catch a glimpse of some magnificent works of art by legends like Monet, El Greco and Canaletto. Housing over 800 works in total, it plays home to the largest private collection of European Art on the island and stands as the culmination of the vision of the late Cypriot entrepreneur, Anastasios Leventis.
/ Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre (NiMAC)
The Loukia & Michael Zampelas Museum (zampelasart. com) is also one to add to the list, with a colourful collection mainly comprising work by Cypriot artists from the 20th and 21st century, including a small number of works by Greek artists from the 19th through to the 21st century. Various temporary exhibits also feature on the agenda. Art Seen (artseeneditions.com) is another cool little space and new kid on the block, organising curatorial projects and exhibitions by local and international artists and creating bridges and dialogue between Cyprus and the international contemporary art scene. The Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre (NiMAC) is a great place to discover all things new on both the modern Cypriot and foreign art scenes, with regular exhibitions often featuring a whole host of local talents under varying themes. Check out their website for updates (nimac.org.cy)
Art Seen /
Delectable drinking Coffee culture is huge in Cyprus. So much so, that getting your caffeine fix is one of the most popular pastimes on the island. And with 3rd wave coffee shops all the rage, the hip and cool hang out at Kxoffee Project (29D Pindarou St), The Daily Roast (16 Gerasimou Markora St) and Red Sheep Coffee Co. (16d, Kyriakou Matsi Avenue). Sip on your favourite cold brew or espresso beverage and immerse yourselves in caffeinated heaven with gourmet coffee roasted daily in-house. After a stiff drink? Make Lost + Found Drinkery (38 Lord Byron Street) your first port of call, officially celebrated as one of the ‘World’s 50 Best Bars’, and for good reason! You’ll enjoy the dreamiest cocktail concoctions in town, in a tiny place oozing retro cool that often hosts award-winning bartenders from around the world. Notes and Spirits (33 Evagorou Avenue) is another trendy joint with scrumptious cocktails and funky beats. Plato’s Bar & Restaurant (8 Platos St) is where you’ll guzzle a pint in a great pub atmosphere, featuring the most impressive beer menu in the country. They also dish up a massive burger and tender kebab.
/ Brewfellas
Kxoffee Project /
After something even more unique? Brewfellas (brewfellas.com) should be right up your street, with its fantastic selection of rare craft beers from around the world; while the talented team at Pivo Microbrewery (pivomicrobrewery.com.cy) welcome thirsty crowds into their hip little outdoor beer garden serving brews made on the grounds. Silver Star bar (44-46 Sofouli St) is every oenophile’s dream with low intervention wines from around the world, while their gin cocktails go down a treat. Looking for some toe-tapping live music? Sarah’s Jazz Club (sarahsjazzclub.com) hosts talented musicians for spine tingling performances every weekend. NICOSIA UNCOVERED / 43
Divine dining
Mattheos /
/ The Gym
Cyprus cuisine is every foodie's dream as fresh produce, heavenly herbs, lashings of extra virgin olive oil and the undisputed tangy drizzle of lemon make for a dazzling taste experience. Eat like the locals at midday and go for pulses like ‘moujentra’ (lentils with rice and fried onion), ‘louvi’ (black eyed beans served with courgette or greens) or ‘fasolada’ (broad beans cooked in a tomato sauce with potatoes, carrots and celery) at old town traditional eateries that have stood the test of time – namely Siandris (Pericleous Street, parallel to Ledra Street), Mattheos (8th October Square, behind Faneromeni Church) and St George (27 Dimarhias Square). For healthy lunch with an international flair, Inga’s Veggie Heaven (2 Dimonaktos St) is a gem of a place and every healthy-eater's dream. From veggie burgers and eggplant/feta lasagne, to vegan Moroccan shepherd’s pie and quinoa loafs with peanut sauce, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Got a soft spot for brunch? Silver Pot (3E Thenmistokli Dervi St) leaves us salivating every time with their American style blueberry pancakes served with mascarpone cheese and moreish French toast with brie and bacon, while Zest Coffee + Kitchen (13 Vasilissis Freiderikis St) is all about healthy eating with a piquant buffet spread. Walk down Onasagorou Street and stop off at a haven of all things stylish: The Gym (thegymconcept.com). Cool off with a cocktail or coffee, tuck into a risotto for lunch or enjoy an evening platter with fine wine. How about fine dining in ambient style? Skinny Fox (14A Menandrou St) is all the rage. After something more casual? The cute and cosy Cookshop (foodlovers.com.cy) should do the trick, whether you want to tuck into their halloumi fries, a juicy burger, pork belly or seafood risotto, this establishment hits the spot every time (open weekday lunchtimes and Friday nights). Intent on a dining experience in a historic location? Caraffa Bastione (Athinas St) is set in one of the most atmospheric spots of all, tucked away within the stone arches of the striking Venetian walls that surround the old town running adjacent to Famagusta Gate. Once seated, expect fine dining with a Mediterranean twist.
Heavenly Sleeps Whether you’re travelling solo, enjoying a family holiday, have jetted over for a short business trip or are feeling loved up on a romantic getaway, getting your precious night time shut-eye at the right place is priceless. For a unique – and slightly offbeat – stay, 3 Rooms Boutique Hotel (3 Stoa Klokkari) should be right up your street, tucked away in a cool arcade connecting Ledra and Onasagorou Streets in the centre of the old town. All three high ceilinged rooms in this cute little place boast a vintage flair, while guests have access to a common area with a large communal dinner table. Head out onto the upstairs balcony, and enjoy a peek at all the action in the arcade below, with its cool café and a traditional eatery dishing up simple yet tasty local fare. Also in the old town vicinity, the Classic Hotel (classic.com.cy) is a surefire choice, with sleek comfy rooms, ideal for business travellers or families. The grounds include conference rooms, a business centre with computer and printer, a fully equipped gym and a restaurant. Kick start the day with a continental breakfast buffet in the morning before exploring the city and be sure to step into the Olive Tree courtyard for uninterrupted relaxation. 44 / LIKE A LOCAL
/ 3 Rooms Boutique Hotel
Shopping therapy Whether you’re after a rare keepsake, have a penchant for jewellery, or love funky garments, Nicosia’s streets won’t leave shopaholics disappointed. As you perambulate the old town, stop off at The Collective (thecollectiveconcept. com); a one-stop-shop for vintage and pre-loved items. With owners, Natasha and Paris, passionate about all things cool and colourful, you’ll find just about everything here – rummage through men’s and women’s clothes and accessories, homeware, games, vinyl records, books and much more. Expect a mix of locally-sourced items and unique finds from travels abroad. For a hub of all things creative, head to Phaneromenis 70 (Faneromeni Square), run by local artist Kyriaki Costa. Get hold of handmade souvenirs with an artsy twist, ceramics, alternative post cards and trendy T-shirts. If you’d love to kick back with a cup of coffee as you indulge in a spot of shopping in one space, Artnaldas (2 Arnaldas St) just off Makarios Avenue is the place to be; a design store cum specialty café offering an exclusive shopping and gourmet experience. A great place to get your mitts on the creations of local designers, just take your pick from a range of jewellery, handmade bags and other hip finds.
/ Art naldas
The Collective /
/ Classic Hotel NICOSIA UNCOVERED / 45
A Room to Remember _in_ _ _Prague ________ Sip on the best beer in the world at old fashioned bars where history jumps to life, get lost in a maze of cobbled lanes laced with spellbinding baroque and art-nouveau buildings, stumble upon handsome hidden gardens, and look up at dazzling Gothic church spires. And when you want to put your feet up for the night in the dream-like capital of the Czech Republic? Make it one to remember! A stone’s throw from the ninth century Prague Castle in the city’s beautiful baroque ‘Lesser Quarter’, Design Hotel Neruda is a haven of all things modern and sleek, classical and cosy. One of the world’s designated ‘Hip Hotels’ – thanks to famous architect Borek Sipek and designer Barbora Skorpilova – we love their Design Deluxe Room, oozing romance as modern furniture and a touch of oriental chic combine in perfect unison. Characterised by a glass-walled bathroom, blissful stays are made all the more dreamy here with views of Nerudova Street leading uphill towards the UNESCO World Heritage castle, rising proud above the city. With sightseeing hotspots like St Vitus Cathedral, Loreta, Petrin Lookout Tower, Charles Bridge and the Jewish Quarter at your fingertips, the hotel’s ‘relaxing zone’ beckons once your feet tire, with spa therapies to send you to seventh heaven.
Design Hotel Neruda / 44 Neruda St, Prague, Czech Republic / Tel: +420 257 535 557 / www.designhotelneruda.com 46 / PERFECT STAYS
T E X T BY E M I LY M I L L E T T
Gelatissimo
48 / SCREAMING FOR ICE CREAM
A Scoop of the Best
The world is obsessed with ice cream and Cyprus is no exception. And with 300 days of sunshine per year, it’s always ice-cream season on the island. Try these local parlours for a taste of the best scoops around.
Napolea Ice Cream Created by French Chef, Pierrick Gautier, this artisan ice cream is prepared the old French way, combining specialised culinary skills, with fresh local dairy products and first-class ingredients from around the world including Belgian Chocolate, French Vanilla and Asian Mangos.
40 flavours on offer is the only hard part, but for a fail-safe option go for Rocher, Strawberry Cheesecake or Yoghurt with Forest Fruits. Fig Tree Bay, Protaras. Tel: +357 23 832896 Nissi Avenue, Ayia Napa. Tel +357 99 380611
The two shops both boast central locations in Ayia Napa and Protaras, just seconds from some of the best beaches on the island. Choosing from the Š Napolea Ice Cream
Gelateria di Gusto Proof that when something is made with love, customers will love it too, Gelateria di Gusto is more than a business; it is a family-run labour of love and the passion is palpable. Only fresh products are used to create these delectable goodies, with strictly no colours or preservatives added. Grab a scoop of bona fide Cypriot Mastic-Pistachio-Kateifi or the popular Vanilla-Brownie-Caramel before heading off to take in the awe-inspiring Salt Lake with its iconic pink flamingos, or the nearby churches of Faneromeni and Saint Lazaros. 102-4 Faneromenis Avenue, Larnaca Tel: +357 24 665758
A SCOOP OF THE BEST / 49
Gelamo Gelato Caffe Taking up a prime position on the picturesque Paphos Harbour, just a stone’s throw from Paphos Castle and the Archaeological Park with its iconic Roman Mosaics, this popular local joint is the perfect spot to enjoy the sun set over the Mediterranean with a fresh, 100% natural, homemade gelato. Be adventurous and indulge in traditional Chios Mastiha or go for chartbusters Pistachio, Dark Chocolate or Cheese-Cake. 114 Apstolou Pavlou, Kato Paphos Tel: +357 26 933769 © Gelamo Gelato Caffe
E Cosi Gelateria With 52 different flavours and 15 vegan options, ice cream aficionados are spoilt for choice at E Cosi Gelateria. Luckily, this local favourite is in the heart of Kato Paphos, making it a temptingly accessible refuelling point for visitors exploring the rich open-air museum that is this part of town. Prepared daily using seasonal fruits and fresh ingredients, this light, lowfat gelato comes in authentic Italian flavours such the famous Sicilian
Pistachio and Hazelnut Piemonte, timeless classics such as Madagascar Vanilla and Callebaut Belgian Chocolate or fresh fruit sorbets like Forest Fruits, Blood Orange and Lemon. 12 Marina Court, Apostolou Pavlou, Kato Paphos Tel: +357 26 943880
Gelatiamo Artisan Gelato Prepared fresh every day using craft methods and high-quality raw ingredients, this parlour in the very heart of Nicosia’s old town operates according to the moto ‘Fresh & Natural’. Embodying everything that makes gelato stand out from the frozen treat crowd, the perfectly creamy scoops at Gelatiamo are lighter, softer, less fatty and more elastic in texture than regular ice cream. The flavours are simple, yet authentically local, with favourites including Guava Sorbet or seasonal sugar and dairy-free Almond – the perfect refreshment on a hot day exploring the labyrinth of winding cobbled streets, historic Venetian walls, museums, churches and traditional buildings of this charming part of the capital. 51 Onasagorou St, Nicosia Tel: +357 22 755055 50 / SCREAMING FOR ICE CREAM
Uluwatu Specialty Coffees Located on the popular central Limassol shopping street, Anexartisias, this hip coffee shop-cum-gourmet ice cream parlour makes for the perfect pitstop for retail junkies and urban explorers. All their ice cream pops are made in-house, using organic milk and ever-changing seasonal local flavours. Vegan options are also available, while unique signature ingredients such as locally-grown flowers, fresh organic rose petals and edible gold leaf, ensure these impressive delicacies are a treat for the eye as much as for the palate. Try Lemon Biscuit and Strawberry Chocolate, Apple Pie, Red Velvet or Crunchy Chocolate. 10 Anexartisias St, Limassol Tel: +357 25 222191
A SCOOP OF THE BEST / 51
Gelatissimo Proof that small-scale can mean bigger and better quality, Gelatissimo is a tiny boutique parlour with a huge reputation for its excellent ice cream. Tucked away in a corner of the Limassol Castle square, surrounded by the buzzing energy of the historic centre, this is the perfect spot to kick back and watch the world go by. And although they may have a smaller selection of flavours than other places, those flavours they do have, including Coconut, Mango and Lemon, are made to creamy perfection. Also try the selection of yogurt options with Honey, Pistachio or Forest Fruits. 22 Irinis St, Limassol Tel: +357 25 379444
Pahit Ice A firm local favourite, this family-run franchise has become something of an institution since it opened 35 years ago. Basing their recipes on timeless traditional Italian methods, Pahit Ice produces superb quality artisan ice cream in their 30 parlours – many of which can be found in tourist hubs such as Protaras, Ayia Napa, Larnaca, Limassol, and Paphos Harbour, and in the heart of Nicosia’s historic centre on Ledra Street. Of the 40 plus flavours, Classic Chocolate is their best seller, followed by Chocolate-Chip, but for something more exotic opt for Chios Mastiha or Cypriot Rose Sorbet. Multiple locations islandwide.
52 / SCREAMING FOR ICE CREAM
Local favourites! Rose (‘triantafilo’)
Lemon (‘lemoni’)
Mastic (‘masticha’)
Nut Brittle (‘pastellaki’)
Rice Pudding (‘risogalo’)
Prickly Pear (‘papoutsosiko’)
Pistachio (‘halepiano’)
Carob Syrup (‘charoupomelo’)
Almond (‘amigdalo’)
Loquat (‘mosfilo’)
Fragrant, delicate and subtle, this local treat is a refined taste sensation for the sophisticated palette.
Made using the resin of the Mastic tree from the Greek island of Chios, this distinctive flavour exudes a feeling of exotic summers under the sun.
If you’ve ever wondered what rice pudding tastes like frozen or as ice cream, now is your chance to try it, with this rare local flavour.
Just like the classic international favourite, Cypriot Pistachio is a mouth-watering fusion of creamy nuttiness.
A seasonal speciality, almond only comes around once a year, so it’s best to savour its understated intricacies when you have the chance.
Walnut Sweet (‘glyko karidaki’)
This traditional sweet – young walnuts soaked in syrup – has more recently become an interesting ice cream flavour with an experimental yet undeniably sweet taste.
Perfectly refreshing on a hot summer's day, lemon is a cool pick-me-up with a sharp bite.
This traditional sweet brittle treat with honey, peanuts and sesame, transforms elegantly into an ice cream that is both nutty, sweet and as authentic as it gets.
Despite not looking that appetising, prickly pears are delicious, sweet and juicy under that hard exterior, and the ice cream equivalent is freshy and fruity.
A sticky brown alternative to honey or sugar, carob is prolific across Cyprus, making this flavour as authentically Cypriot, as it is uniquely delicious.
Somewhere between an apricot, an orange and a melon, the tiny little Cypriot mosfila fruit packs a powerful punch both as ice cream, and fresh from the tree.
Watermelon (‘karpouzi’)
This flavour is as cool and fresh as it sounds, and that is because Cypriot watermelons are some of the sweetest and juiciest in Europe. A SCOOP OF THE BEST / 53
Cyprus from Above “Photography is a love affair with life,” once said the famous American photojournalist, Burk Uzzle. And it certainly rings true for Cypriot photographer, Romos Kotsonis, whose passionate affair encompasses every inch of his home country as he sets off to capture the very best of the island from above with his cherished drone as part of his ‘Cyprus from Above’ project. Into far flung depths of the countryside, atop the highest mountain peaks, and all the way to the most remote rocky headlands, Romos has done it all; and seized the moment on camera. Beyond local shores, his endless relationship with the lens has seen him awarded in countless international photography competitions and exhibitions, scooping the Gold medal in Norway’s Arctic Exhibition of Photographic Art 2017, a Silver medal in the Swiss International Photo Contest 2017, and a Gold medal at the 2nd Indian Golden Digital Circuit.
54 / AERIAL VIEWS
Cape Greco National Park With crystal clear waters and brilliant snorkelling opportunities, the paradisiacal Cape Greco National Park also lures avid sailors who love to cruise along the rocky coastline. A far cry from the hustle and bustle of nearby Ayia Napa, it’s an idyllic spot blessed with sea caves, natural rock bridges, nature trails and vibrant flora.
CYPRUS FROM ABOVE / 55
Akamas Peninsula
Limassol coastline
One of the most stunning stretches of Cyprus coastline, the Akamas Peninsula – on the western tip of the island – is a place of intoxicating natural beauty where magnificent valleys befriend steep gorges and rocky outcrops are laced with sandy bays. A haven for avid explorers, nowhere is dreamier than the secluded Blue Lagoon, with iridescent turquoise waters begging you to take a mighty plunge.
A hip and happening city steeped in history right by the sea, cosmopolitan Limassol has undergone a serious transformation luring in gastronomes, party goers, entrepreneurs, shopaholics, archaeology buffs and just about everyone in between. A medley of cultures and a hive of all things cool, walk down its seafront strip to take in the buzz as sporty teens, happy families and curious visitors enjoy the fresh sea air.
56 / AERIAL VIEWS
‘Teichia tis Madaris’ nature trail
Pedoulas village
An awe-inspiring nature trail in the Troodos Mountains, it boasts excellent views towards the Mesaoria plain and Morfou Bay, while impressive vertical rocks (‘teichia’) resembling enormous walls cut into the rock face, render the trail even more stunning than most, formed by millions of years of natural erosion.
No Cyprus adventure is complete without visiting a mountain village. And tradition comes to life in all its glory in the green and fertile Marathassa Valley on the northern slopes of the Troodos mountains, with terracotta-hued villages encircled by gurgling spring waters, scented pines and bright cherry trees. Houses are characterised by red tiled rooves, while the Church of the Holy Cross also calls out for attention with its central dome and two tall belfries.
CYPRUS FROM ABOVE / 57
Panayia tou Sinti Monastery
Ayios Sozomenos abandoned village
Renowned for its religious heritage, the undulating Cyprus landscape is home to countless churches and monasteries. The striking Panayia tou Sinti may be a world away from civilization – tucked away in the countryside outside Paphos – but it’s worth every effort to reach it. A designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, this gorgeous abandoned 16th century monastery and church restored in the 1990s, received a Europa Nostra award for restoration and conservation in 1997.
A real off-the-beaten track historic gem, the 16th century Gothic church of Agios Mamas – with its imposing arches – is located in a deserted village just outside the island’s capital of Nicosia. With nothing but endless fields and open skies forming a backdrop to this otherworldly site, the whole place is a real photographer’s dream.
58 / AERIAL VIEWS
Tel Aviv
/ Where old meets new /
Why go?
Must visit
It’s hip and cool with a touch of old school! Israel’s second largest city – meaning ‘Hill of Spring’ in Hebrew – is a booming seaside metropolis famed for its vibrant nightlife and packed with upmarket bistros and sleek bars.
Neve Tzedek: Tel Aviv’s oldest and prettiest district screams ‘trendy’. A cool village atmosphere predominates with a fascinating medley of boutiques, design stores and quirky handicraft shops luring creative types. That’s not to forget the stylish eateries that sit beside cafés, beckoning crowds with al fresco jazz and delicious sundowners.
Walk down the famous Tayelet promenade and you’ll spot contemporary urbanites hitting the sandy beach, while well-dressed locals do lazy lunch at seaside cafés. But stroll through the cobbled lanes of old Jaffa and its port and you’ll suddenly lose yourselves in a web of history and culture, as old ancient clock towers befriend intricate sculptures, giving way to smart galleries and art studios, while the area's famous flea market injects brilliant colour into the urban tapestry.
60 / ON THE BUCKET LIST - TEL AVIV
Don’t leave without Devouring the local food! Whether you indulge in a hearty shakshuka for breakfast (eggs poached in spicy tomato sauce), grab a falafel for lunch from practically any street corner, or get decked up for a fine dining experience come evening, it will be worth every shekel and your taste buds will thank you for it. Be sure to order some divine hummus on the side, and dip that oh-so moreish soft fluffy pitta right in!
Take a selfie @ The Tel Aviv Museum of Art. Stand outside this exceptionally cool building to take a photo before stepping inside to gaze at the country’s best collection of local and international art.
Cyprus Airways flies to Tel Aviv up to 5 times per week
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TEXT BY ALEXANDER DAVIDIAN
Reaching for the Stars
62 / CYPRUS TALENTS
Troodos’ star observatory’s futuristic new design by sibling architects Elena and Nicodemos Tsolakis, is set not merely to raise the region’s tourism to new heights, but is also a powerful example of the new peaks being scaled by Cyprus talent.
“We didn’t present several options. We only presented one, because we had complete faith that that proposal… was THE proposal,” says architect Elena Tsolakis, as her brother and fellow architect, Nicodemos Tsolakis, concurs. They are speaking of their audacious design for an astronomical research centre – the first purpose-built star observatory in Cyprus – which is to be constructed 1,200 metres above sea level just outside the village of Agridia in Troodos’ Geopark.
Elena is a director at Kyriakos Tsolakis Architects, originally founded by her father Kyriakos in 1973 in Melbourne, Australia, with the Cyprus office opening in the island’s capital in 2008, and their London base launching in 2014. She and Nicodemos, who manages their Cyprus operations, point out that even though putting forth their sci-fi-inspired design had been a huge professional risk, their clients – the community of Agridia itself – lost no time in giving it their blessing.
The Geopark itself stretches 115 hectares across Cyprus’ main mountain range, thick with fields, forests, vineyards and orchards, and dotted with communities whose inhabitants have dwindled as young people find work in bigger towns. The observatory’s design was saluted in the Cyprus media and has also featured in the prestigious architectural Dezeen magazine, due to its breathtaking otherworldly concept, which was modelled on a spacecraft.
“I think we shocked them initially,” muses Nicodemos, “because the buildings which we had been asked to reference in preparing the design were functional, without that additional visual dimension. But, to our clients’ credit, once they saw our design, they went with it one hundred percent.” The project, which received planning permission in 2017, comes under the framework of a Cyprus-Greece collaboration that includes a swathe REACHING FOR THE STARS / 63
of initiatives intended to boost Troodos’ tourist appeal. The Tsolakis siblings – who also have a younger sister, Cassandra, herself an architect, too – became involved with the project in 2015, when asked to conduct a feasibility study as to the best location for the future observatory. They obliged, and ended up falling in love with the stunning views and pristine natural environment of Agridia. Once concluded though, the finished study – which included expert input from NASA astrophysicist Thanasis Economou – would ordinarily have ended the young architects’ involvement in the project. Things took a star-crossed turn when sometime later (with a European grant deadline looming) the community council of Agridia returned to Elena and Nicodemos, in order to secure planning permission for the observatory. This, in effect, left the Tsolakis siblings three months to generate what today has become their most visionary design yet. Battling the ticking clock, sister and brother challenged each other to take a huge aspirational leap towards the landscapes that had inspired them as children – namely the vistas of sci-fi classics like Star Wars and Bladerunner, featuring structures free of terrestrial influences. Finally, in December 2016, Elena and Nicodemos presented their design, and screened actual sequences from sci-fi films to amplify rather than bury their cinematic inspiration. Visualisations of the slender, wedge-shaped structure reveal a dome roof at one end, and a cantilevered roof terrace at the other, jutting impressively from the mountainside, yet taking up a small footprint. “We took all environmental concerns into account and, when construction begins, the area beneath the 64 / CYPRUS TALENTS
cantilever will not be disturbed,” explains Nicodemos. The region’s extremes in seasonal temperature and its snowfall have also been carefully factored in and provided for. Construction is seen as commencing by the end of 2018 and completing by the end of 2020, after which the hoped-for impact will be to draw local and visiting star-gazing enthusiasts, as well as students on school excursions, to come and be awed by the splendours of the heavens. The observatory – which will also be able to share celestial data collected between India and the Mediterranean with international space agencies – will operate on a 24-hour basis and house two telescopes. When the cantilever’s retractable roof draws back, visitors will be able to view the sun from a solar telescope mounted on a platform, while the more powerful night telescope, focused on stars beyond the sun, will be housed inside the dome. “Nicodemos and I wanted the kids and adults who visit to have the same experience of wonder that we had when we visited planetariums in Melbourne, growing up,” says Elena. “And even if you weren’t planning to visit, how could you not want to see more of this building when you drive by?” Arresting as their design may be, however, the Tsolakis duo intend to set many more architectural benchmarks in the future. Tomorrow’s hoped-for projects include high-rises and public buildings, as well as master-planning briefs, marrying their human-centred, phenomenological approach to generating sheer visual beauty. It’s a bold vision to follow… but then, you don’t need a safety net when your sights are set on the stars.
REACHING FOR THE STARS / 65
TEXT BY ALIX NORMAN
66 / ON THE WILD SIDE
Adventure Island If sun, sea and sand aren’t enough, you’re in the right place: Cyprus is an island of adventure, with every region delivering the opportunity for breathless exhilaration. From the tops of the mountains to the depths of the sea, this is a land designed for pleasures in the extreme: pedalling through forests, plunging into hidden wrecks, ranging the hillsides, scaling the heights, skimming the waves, and exploring coastal caverns. Whatever your plans, this is the place to indulge your intrepid nature with a walk (or a climb, or swim!) on the wild side...
In deep water Diving Larnaca Sunbathing on the sand is fun, but it’s what’s going on below the surface that brings the real burn of excitement. “Stunning scenery and clear waters make Cyprus an ideal dive destination,” explains expert diver and instructor Clive Martin, owner of Dive-In Larnaca. Offering diving courses and equipment rental all year round, the diving centre is ideally located for those who wish to explore one of the top five wreck sites in the world: the Zenobia. Resting on the seafloor a mere three-minute boat ride from the Dive-In centre, the Zenobia is an oasis of the deep, a haven for marine life. At a depth of between 17 and 43 metres (the top of the wreck is suitable for experienced open water divers; supervised beginners can dive the site following a week-long diving course) the 200-metre vessel is remarkable in both size and condition. “The sheer enormity, and the fact that the vessel is still fully-loaded and intact, make the Zenobia a unique dive,” Clive reveals. For more information on diving the Zenobia, visit dive-in.com.cy or call +357 24 627469
Wheels in motion Cycling Troodos Your first and last glimpse of Cyprus will be of the cool, green mountains. Rising from the coastal plain to a height of almost 2000 metres, the Troodos range is the island’s hot-weather playground: shaded river valleys and secret olive groves giving way to pine-clad slopes as you climb. Criss-crossed with neatly-mapped trails, this natural sanctuary is perfect for lovers of all things nature. And the best way to see it all is on two wheels. Divided into five main regions, the Troodos Cycling Network boasts more than 60 kilometres of designated trails: paths which dive in and out of verdant forest, circling through charming villages and intersecting with local wine routes. Guided tours abound, with Bikin'Cyprus Adventures, the Cyprus Tourist Organisation, and Mountain Bike Cyprus all renting bikes by the day. It’s the best way to see the area’s exceptional flora and fauna while it’s possibly the only way to sneak up on a free-ranging moufflon! For more information on cycling the Troodos mountains, visit bikincyprusadventures.com (+357 24332112) or visit mountainbikecyprus.com (+357 26 432033) ADVENTURE ISLAND / 67
Walking the wild side Hiking Akamas Practically untouched, the Akamas Peninsula is Cyprus’ most remote bastion of beauty, and though access may require a 4x4 and an early start, it’s a worthwhile journey for any adventurer! This is where the mountains meet the sea, plunging down in forested excess to the secluded shores and crystal waters. Home to more than a third of the island’s endemic flora and fauna, Akamas is a walker’s paradise, especially during spring and autumn: this is the place to spot your Cyprus warbler nesting amongst the gorse, wade through pastures of fragrant cyclamen, and marvel at the Green Turtle hatchery on Lara Beach. Meanwhile, natural features such as the Avakas Gorge (a hidden canyon with staggeringly beautiful rock formations soaring overhead) and Aphrodite’s Baths (a lushly-foliated grotto in which the Goddess of Love was said to bathe) make for delightful stopping points along the peninsula’s network of nature trails. For more information on hiking in Akamas, visit agrotourism.com.cy
On the rocks Climbing Napa Lauded for its epic nightlife and crystal waters, Ayia Napa is probably the area best known to visitors. But there’s a great deal more to this region than first meets the eye, especially for the more athletic adventurer. While the coastal wilderness of Cape Greco features 16km of hiking trails, a ruined temple, and a host of snorkelling opportunities, it’s the rocks themselves which are the best-kept secret amongst the island’s most daring. 68 / ON THE WILD SIDE
A favourite with experienced climbers for its lower grade and multi-pitch routes, the Cape boasts more than five separate climbs, including West Crag and Greco Crag on the south of the peninsula, and Tigani North on the opposite side of the bay. Experienced instructor Marios Hadjipetris of One Step Further, who runs courses and trips all over the island (including at the infamous climb site in the Diarizos River Valley, Paphos), notes that the Cape is
“a particularly beautiful area, the rocks packed with unusual fossils as you climb.” For more information on climbing at Cape Greco, visit onestepfurther.com.cy or call +357 22 254612
Touching the clouds
Coasting along
Kitesurfing Curium
Kayaking Paphos
Boasting one of the most impressive Roman amphitheatres in the world, Curium is history set on a cobalt horizon. Standing high on the cliffs, the world becomes your personal stage, the miles of sea the place on which to play an adventuresome role: that of an island kitesurfer.
Known around the Mediterranean for their unique wildlife, the sea caves to the north of Coral Bay are mysterious marine hideaways – and a cool respite for those who’ve been out on the water all day. Kayaking is the best way to get there; many of the caves are only accessible by boat, and a half day-trip courtesy of Zephyros Adventure Sports is an exciting introduction to these coastal caverns.
If you’re based in Larnaca, it’s Kahuna Surfhouse that’s the kitesurf go-to for equipment and instruction. But in Limassol, there’s nowhere quite like Curium Beach to master this most extreme of sports. While beginners’ lessons take place on nearby shores, once you know what you’re doing, Curium is an ideal location, says instructor and five-time island champion Antonis Anthimiades. Working with Kiteboarding Cyprus, who rent the full range of equipment, Antonis trains everyone from newbies to experts. “Curium is known for the interplay of clean wind and fantastic waves, which together create a truly dynamic experience,” he explains, adding that the majority of learners are skimming the space between sea and sky within just three days. For more information on Kitesurfing at Curium, visit kiteboardingcyprus.com or call +357 96 210066 (English) or +357 96 887732 (Russian)
Grazing green turtles, island seabirds, Mediterranean monk seals, and horseshoe and Egyptian fruit bats are just some of the indigenous fauna, reveals Zephyros’ Marine Activities specialist, Lucy Larcombe. “Kayaking is a fantastic way to explore the caves; some are up to 40 metres in depth. You can land your boat inside, have a quiet swim, and hunt for hidden fossils – the geography and geology are incredible: blowholes, collapsed caverns, underground beaches. Kayaking the sea caves isn’t just a sport, it’s a whole journey of discovery!” For more information on kayaking the Paphos sea caves, visit enjoycyprus.com or call +357 26 930037
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�Travel Cool & Quirky Accessories Who said packing is boring? These funky accessories and gadgets may change your travel experience or just add some fun along the way. Even if you don’t need them, you’ll probably want them anyway!
Flask light A flashlight and flask in one? That’s right! This VSSL flask has been designed to hold the beverage of your choice, with an added flashlight to guide you in the dark. Compact and portable, you can take it on any adventure, whether you’re climbing the highest peaks or hitting the beach. Lined with glass to preserve beverage taste and quality, it carries 10 ounces of liquid and comes with two stainless steel collapsible shot glasses, a custom VSSL bottle opener, and a compass. www.vsslgear.com
Customised luggage tag Gone are the days when luggage tags were purely functional; these days you can jazz up your suitcase with your own fun personal touch. This customised leather tag is hand cut and hand printed by independent Bulgarian designer, DiGeordie. Add initials, names, dates, coordinates, your logo, design, or even a quote that means a lot to you – if it inspires you, the designer is happy to oblige. www.etsy.com/shop/DiGeordie
Sandfree mat If you’ve ever left the beach and unknowingly carried a ton of sand back with you into your hotel room, then you’ll love this Sandlite mat, created with a quick-dry, soft, light material that easily folds into a small carry bag. Guaranteeing a patented sand-free experience, it comes in cool summery patterns and colours. And it’s super versatile – take it out on a picnic and a spilt drink will just bead on the surface and wipe off easily. www.cgear-sandfree.com 70 / TRAVEL IN STYLE
Anti-aging sleep mask Yes, that’s right, this mask claims to help keep you looking young as you sleep! If you’re craving some shut-eye on the plane or wish to block out all light in your hotel room, this Sleep Fountain specialized sleep mask infused with copper ions woven through the soft inner fabric promises to reduce fine lines and wrinkles as you rest, and improves skin appearance in less than four weeks. The Natural Mulberry Silk breathable exterior adds a luxurious feel, and you’ll receive it in a gift box with complimentary ear plugs too. www.sleepfountain.com
Wireless headphones Sleek and stylish, these Beats Studio3 headphones not only look and sound good, they are also light, comfy, and have a super improved dual-mode Adaptive Noise cancelling feature (pure ANC) that lets you block out noise when you’re not listening to your favourite tunes. The 12-hour rechargeable battery is perfect for a long flight and they’ll slip into your carry-on bag without taking up too much space, folding up into a super sleek carrying case. Also available in blue, matt black, red, white and porcelain rose. www.amazon.com
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Cyprus Airways Routes Cyprus Airways flights Cyprus Airways code-shared flights with S7
Our Destinations at a Glance / Summer period 2018, March - October
Athens, Greece Up to 5 times per week
Tel Aviv, Israel Up to 5 times per week
Beirut, Lebanon Up to 7 times per week
Prague, Czech Republic Twice a week
74 / CYPRUS AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS
Verona, Italy Twice a week
Zurich, Switzerland Twice a week
Munich & Stuttgart, Germany Once a week
St Petersburg, Russia Daily flights
Chania, Crete Twice a week (July - September)
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Useful information To book your flight, find out more about Cyprus Airways destinations, or join our newsletter for the company’s latest news and offers visit: cyprusairways.com For any information or support, the Cyprus Airways Call Centre provides a 24/7 service, with a toll-free number for Cyprus: 8000 8111. When calling from abroad tel: +357 24 00 00 53 cyprusairways
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“ Some moments are worth every distance." -Cyprus Airways