The gardener magazine november 2017

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NOVEMBER 2017 SOUTH AFRICA

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LIVING THE SEASONS Allow colour, recycling and edibles to inspire you!

Sunny summer colour with new plants

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Welcome

I

f we look at the traditional concepts of how we have gardened in the past, with veggies over here, herbs over there, a cut garden over there, and the ornamental gardening close to the house, we can see that space just wasn’t an issue back then. How things have changed! Probably the most common complaint I hear from people is “I don’t have space to grow veggies!” If that sounds familiar, have a look at this month’s feature garden. Designed by Lizette Nieman for the annual Garden World Garden Design Show 2017, it is for me the epitome of how we should all be gardening. Lizette took this lack of space as a challenge, planting ornamentals and edibles alongside each other in fresh, clever ways. This display garden is just 5m x 5m in size, but it contains a patio, a pergola, a vertical garden, roses, herbs, veggies, seasonal colour and even a braai. When Lizette needed a climber she planted broad beans. For a groundcover between steps she planted versatile thyme. She threw the notion of ‘compartmental’ gardening out the window, and instead created this beautiful, inspirational design. It really encapsulates the paradigm shift that we as modern gardeners need to embrace. This month’s food gardening article is along similar lines, focussing on how to make do with what you have, be it space, money or time. Make your own fertiliser or ‘green tea’, take advantage of freebies going begging, recycle what you have, plant wisely, and share with gardening friends. Another challenge that many of our readers face is that of brackish or ‘brak’ water, which is an issue that is not going away any time soon. Our own Anna Celliers gives some tips on what

Tanya and Garth dressed by:

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you can do to help your garden cope, and suggests a number of plants that don’t take much notice of inferior water quality. I just love ‘carnivorous’ plants – those snappy, canny, insatiable characters that are so fascinating to watch and grow. We take a look at some of the most interesting examples and those most readily available, all accompanied by beautiful pictures (as always!). Finally, I have to make mention of the 2017 The Witness Garden Show that we recently staged so successfully. That it went off so smoothly and to such wide acclaim was an incredible accomplishment, and I have to thank and congratulate the entire team behind the scenes. Thanks, too, to the visitors, the exhibitors and everyone else who made it such a success. Happy gardening,

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4 I www.dietuinier.co.za


Contents in the garden November 2017 6

Living room through seasons Be inspired by colour, recycling and edible gardening

12

For sunny summer colour Fill up your spots and pots with the latest colourful flowering gems

16

Little Shop of Horrors Delve into the fascinating world of carnivorous plants

20

Smart bordering Compact plants can be used in rich swathes of colour and texture in the foreground

25 26

Plant eucomis For a spectacular, different show, plant eucomis varieties

31 32

Proudly South African Beautiful, useful, round-leaf kiaat

38 43

Your rose garden Bring bees to your rose garden

Coping with brackish water What do you do if water quality is affecting your garden? Pool time! Get your pool ready for summer fun Summer in a basket Hanging baskets are a great way to make use of annual colour

Subscriptions Tel 031 003 0940 Email subs@thegardener.co.za Publisher Lonehill Trading (Pty) Ltd Editor Tanya Visser Assistant Editor Anna Celliers Managing Editor (Editorial enquiries) Wendy Moulton 031 003 0940 Assistant to the Editor Cindy May Wang 031 003 0940 Copy Editor Stephen Smith

create

garden decor and DIY

60

Working with wood Build a shelter to keep your firewood dry and close at hand

6 47

Understanding diatomaceous earth Do away with bugs the natural way

50

Food gardening t Herbs for summer skin ailments t 5 budget-beating ideas t Garden tasks for November t November sowing guide

58

Gardening with bees In Part 3 of this series we look at the different types of bees

64

November in your garden Here is a quick checklist to remind you what to do in the garden in November

Photography Geoff Redman Online Editor Katrine Anker-Nilssen DIY Expert Garth Demmer Advertising Jonathan Gouws 031 003 0940 jonathan@thegardener.co.za Advertising Mokete Maepa 031 003 0940 mokete@thegardener.co.za Office Administrator (Enquiries) Nokuthula Zuma 031 003 0940 nokuthula@thegardener.co.za

Design Gillian O’Donoghue Copyright subsists in all work published in this magazine. Any reproduction or adaptation, in whole or part, without written permission is strictly prohibited. The Gardener will not be held responsible for any omissions or errors. Unsolicited material will not be accepted.

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extras 68 69 72

Subscribe to The Gardener and save! Events and lunar gardening guide

Stoep Stories with Anna Celliers On the road again

Editorial contributors Alice Spenser-Higgs, Anna Celliers, Connal Eardley, David van den Bergh, Gerald Schofield, Graham Duncan, Ilona Thorndyke, Lizette Nieman, Ludwig Taschner, Paul Donovan, Tanya Visser, Tinus Oberholzer, Wendy Moulton Editorial Head Office 64 Old Main Road, Botha’s Hill PO Box 184, Botha’s Hill 3660 Telephone (031) 003 0940 Telefax 086 758 3105 e-mail: info@thegardener.co.za


GARDEN DESIGN

Living

room through

Be inspired by colour, recycling and edible gardening.

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By Lizette Nieman Photos by Geoff Redman

SEASONS


T

his garden, featured in the annual Garden World Garden Design Show 2017, drew inspiration from the show’s theme of ‘colour my world’, as well as the idea of reinventing an old space into something completely different, while retaining as much of the original as possible. It’s a small courtyard garden that fulfils the aspirations of an outdoor living room – the ideal place to showcase the theme. I wanted to encourage people to enjoy the outdoor living a patio affords them, and that includes using the herbs and vegetables that grow there. I know that most people would enjoy the idea of sitting amongst the flowers, herbs and vegetables while having a braai and a crisp glass of wine. To bring in more colour and to make the change of seasons more evident, I made very specific plant choices. When you reinvent something old, the canvas is different every time and your work can never be repeated. I used the ‘old’ as the backbone of the design, transforming the bottom two tiers of an old water feature into planter boxes. This was replicated in the quadrants on either side of the water feature. The quadrants were divided by slasto stairs and columns on either side, leading to the centre stage where old beams were used to create a pergola. A Weber braai was painted and sits on a purpose-built shelf, a pop of colour against the wall. I cut slasto paving up for the stairs, and also used it for crazy paving. The original pavers were cut and used as coping for the columns. Figs were painted on an old door above the braai table, reinforcing the food element and the use of recycled materials. I loved using old square wooden beams to create the illusion of a ceiling, and the holes in the beams gave the opportunity to bring in some old railway bolts as hooks for accessories. Having ‘rooms’ in the garden is so popular right now, and I achieved this feel by decorating

the walls with colourful plates and paintings. The trellis was decorated with ornamental granadilla, softening the walls at the back of the garden. Clay and blue glazed pots added spots of colour and personality, as did the galvanised watering cans. To round the design off and to bring the eye down to the front of the garden, there are hanging bella baskets planted with grey lotus. Pea ‘twirls’ were the inspiration for the design for the main floor space. A border

of thin cobble was used as edging for the circular design of twirls, done with black pebbles in cement. To soften the edges and compensate for the centering of the table with the paths and tables, I used organic crazy paving made from recycled black slasto pavers. Square landings were created with offcuts of slasto, broken blue tiles and cobbles. A practical element in this room is the serving table, with a built-in storage shelf and space for decorative items such

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It’s all about the journey – what we can do in our own small space, where you can catch your breath and marvel at your creations...

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as clay pots. A tap and basin were added to make the space truly functional, but to make it beautiful as well I used a lovely tap that one of my clients brought back from France for me. A mosaic border was created in blue and soft greyish-green, for a lovely complementing background. The centrepiece to the entire design is the recycled wire table and chairs, brought back to life with a bit of TLC and a fresh coat of paint. It is ideal, as it does not dominate the space and all features are still visible from all sides. As I love colour, the best part for me was bringing the whole theme together by using many tones. Blue is the dominant colour, used repeatedly in painting, decorations and glazed pots, as well as in the planting. The walls are painted in a colour that is almost khaki, to bring out the blue and the other, bolder shades. The planter boxes are painted an aubergine hue to create a difference between them and the walls, but still be natural and subtle. A soft shade of blue is used in painting the wooden beams and creating a washed look, which is also repeated in the trellis. The braai and wall brackets are a dark purple to bring a bit of drama to the fore. In terms of flower selection and planting, colour needs to be part of the design from the beginning. In order to decide on what colours and therefore plants to use, you need to take into consideration when the plants will flower and how they will complement each other.

Rose selection was key in planning the colours to be used, as they are the main structure in the planting layout. On the left the colours include mauve, pink, blue and purple, while on the right yellow, red and orange feature prominently. The colour scheme meets in the middle, with the yellow ranunculus and salmon pelargoniums. It’s easy to create an untidy ‘fruit salad’ effect when using so many colours – the trick is to use groupings, to repeat certain plants, and to tone it all down by using blue and white. Plants that are dormant in winter create wonderful opportunities. I used a grapevine to support sweat peas, and a www.thegardener.co.za I 9


The garden is alive with colour, form, tone and texture... 10 I www.thegardener.co.za

wisteria for the climbing nasturtiums. I also interplanted roses with poppies, all to create dynamic excitement with colours and forms that change seasonally. A blue planting combination is ‘Arctic Ice’ rose and lilac heliotropium, with dark blue salvia as a backdrop. Bordering the blue is an obelisk with lilac sweat peas, but the delphiniums are the highlight as they show their majestic blue flower spikes. ‘South Africa’ rose calms the colour down with its salmon hints, and is surrounded by Dianthus ‘Amazon Rose Magic’, Osteopsermum ‘Peach Sunset’ and pink pelargonium. The bottom is framed with Pansy ‘Marina’, Campanula ‘Thumbell’ and Nemesia ‘Banana Twirl’. ‘My Granny’ rose graces the stairs on either side, against a backdrop of purple-leaved kale. In the middle, pale salmon-pink ‘Naughty Nude’ rose is introduced, which shows off beautifully against the giant mustard on one side and grey Erysimum ‘Bowle’s Mauve’ on the other. Behind that is a pale pink penstemon, as well as scabiosa and Statice perezii. Cauliflower and leeks continue the idea of an incorporated fresh produce garden, as does the obelisk with broad beans front and centre. This is surrounded with Pelargonium ‘Salmon’, yellow ranunculus, Osteospermum ‘Sunset Magic’, radicchio and mixed snapdragons, and then framed with ‘Deloitte and Touche’ roses alongside Pansy ‘Marina’. On either side of these stairs are ‘Granny’s Delight’ roses to pick up the pink edge in ‘Granada’ rose, with pink poppies and Nemesia ‘Tropical’. The stairs are planted up with lemon thyme and yellow Chrysanthemum multicaule, to create a surprise of lemon scent when stepped on. In the corner a lemon tree is planted with Strobilanthes as a backdrop. This garden was sponsored by Nu leaf Nursery, Vrone, Ludwig’s Roses and Andriesse sand deliveries, and designed and implemented by Lizette Nieman of Strylitzia Landscaping (082 454 2869, strylitzia@networkone.co.za).



PLANT FOCUS

For sunny

colour

SUMMER

Fill up your spots and pots with the latest colourful flowering gems.

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Coreopsis ‘Citrine’ Bright, compact, showy and tough, ‘Citrine’ impress with great flower power and a very neat growth habit throughout summer. The new flowers appear right on top of the old ones, which just disappear. Coreopsis ‘Citrine’ works well en masse, as edging, or in mixed beds or containers for many months of exciting colour. It’s low maintenance, easy to grow and perfect for sunny places. It grows 15 – 20cm high and 40 – 50cm wide.

Brachyscome ‘Fresco Candy’

TEXT Anna Celliers

Tons of bright magenta blooms cover these mounded plants all season long. ‘Fresco Candy’ is ideal for containers and garden beds. The plants are sensitive to over-watering, and must be fed with a slow-release fertiliser to ensure good flowering. Plant these beauties in full sun. They reach 15 – 30cm high and 15 – 20cm wide.

Brachyscome ‘Fresco Candy’

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Petunia ‘BabyDoll’ and P. ‘Night Sky’

Petunia ‘BabyDoll’

With unique colour patterns on a neat plant with great performance, Petunia ‘Night Sky’ and its sister variety ‘BabyDoll’ may have the most distinctive blooms you’ve ever seen. ‘BabyDoll’ is primarily pink/rose but features eyecatching splashes of white/ cream. ‘Night Sky’ is primarily purple with splashes of white/ cream. They are ideal for containers and hanging baskets, or as a unique centre piece on your patio table. Deadhead spent and faded flowers to encourage new blooms. Plants grow 25 – 40cm high with a spread of 50 – 70cm.

Phlox ‘Pop Stars’

Phlox ‘Pop Stars’

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These small, tidy plants are smothered in star-shaped blooms in striking colours and combinations. ‘Pop Stars’ will be one of the star performers in your garden this summer, and unlike other ‘celebrities’ is really low maintenance. Plants are self-cleaning, so there is no deadheading required. Use in gardens and landscapes, and plant en masse for impact. It is also ideal for containers, where you can show off the bright colours and intriguing bloom shapes. Size is 25cm x 25cm.



Y

es, Audrey 2 of Little Shop of Horrors might have been the product of someone’s imagination running away with them, but there is a grain of truth in all that fiction. There are many plants around the world that have adapted methods of obtaining the nutrients needed to grow in poor soils, and some have done so by being carnivorous. When we see the word ‘carnivorous’ we immediately have a picture of a majestic, frightening lion or similar ‘hunter’ in mind. But for many years it was not believed that plants could be carnivorous, and many early botanical paintings of carnivorous plant species were done without any of the ‘prey’ showing. ‘Carnivorous’ or ‘flesh-eating’ is a bit of a drastic term to use, though, as most carnivorous plants are not bloodthirsty plants that will snap at you like Audrey 2. These plants are grouped together because of their common habit – using some form of animal matter to get the nitrogen the plant needs to grow. They are not all from the same family and don’t all look similar or work in a similar way. They are all very intriguing, though. Carnivorous plants come in a range of shapes and sizes: some of the Utricularia and Genlisea species are tiny, while some of the Nepenthes species can produce not only huge traps, but the bulk

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Dionaea muscipula

of the plant can also be unbelievably large. Some plants have passive traps and do not move, while others have active traps, of which the Venus flytrap must be the best known. Because of the wide range of different types and their varying habitats, there is no one-rule-fits-all for carnivorous plants, so it is best to treat them in their groups. For this reason we will look at the types most commonly available in South Africa. Growing medium and watering is something that can be generalised on. They grow best in good quality peat that is replaced every year or every other year in order to prevent salt build-up. Tolerance to water quality varies from one type to the next and it is therefore recommended to use distilled water. If your tap water is of good enough quality and does not contain too much dissolved salts, it can also be used with success. Another option is to collect rain water for your carnivorous plants.

Venus flytrap (Dionaea muscipula) Truly the celebrity amongst carnivorous plants, as it has been on so many natural history films. It’s always fascinating to see for the first time the speed at which the traps snap closed. These bog plants from North and South Carolina, USA, are compact and don’t take up much space. They are really easy to grow, but are often killed by being improperly cared for. Placing these plants indoors is often not the best option, as they need lots of bright light and good air movement to thrive. The best

TEXT Tinus Oberholzer

Little shop of HORRORS


Dionaea muscipula

Young pitcher developing on Nepenthes.

Sarracenia purpurea

Nepenthes truncata


Nepenthes ‘Bloody Mary’

Sarracenia ‘Velvet’

Drosera paradoxa

spot for these little snappers is in a full sun position, placed in a saucer or tray always containing some water for the plant to stand in. It is advisable to pinch out the flowers stems as they take a lot of energy from the plants.

Monkey cups (Nepenthes spp. and hybrids) With so many species known today, it is to be expected that there will be considerable variance in their growing conditions. The two main types are ‘highland’ and ‘lowland’ Nepenthes, which refers to the altitude at which they grow naturally. The highland types can grow in cooler temperatures, and the lowland types need hot, humid climes. In general, the hybrids are the easiest to grow and start with. The potting medium should always be kept moist, but these plants don’t like to stand in water. They are creepers by habit and should be trimmed back periodically. The best pitchers are usually produced on the lower parts of the plant.

Sundews (Drosera spp.) There are even a few species of Drosera that are indigenous to South Africa – Drosera regia, which is the largest-growing species, is endemic to South Africa. These beautiful plants, which have leaves covered in tentacles, exude a sticky fluid that traps the insect. The leaves of some species then slowly curl to enclose the insect, while in some species the leaves don’t move at all. These are probably the inspiration behind sticky flytraps, as they work on the exact same principle. 18 I www.thegardener.co.za

Cephalotus follicularis

Albany pitcher plant (Cephalotus follicularis) This Australian native looks like a miniature Nepenthes species and can be a bit tricky to grow. Luckily some of the recent selections are plants that are propagated due to their good colouring, but also their ease of culture.

American pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp. and hybrids) These plants are from different areas in the USA and many can handle quite cold winters. After the winter dormancy and before the new leaves emerge, their very interesting flowers develop on tall, elegant

stems. The flowers may stay attractive for long periods even if the petals have fallen, the main structure staying intact. Grow in the same way as you would a Venus flytrap. Carnivorous plants are great fun for young and old, and can make a wonderful hobby or addition to one’s garden interests. It’s always best to get more specific instructions for the plants you have, to ensure you don’t have some thriving while others struggle, due to a more general approach. www.plantae.co.za



EVERYDAY GARDENING

Smart bordering TEXT Anna Celliers

Compact plants can be used in rich swathes of colour and texture in the foreground of shrub beds that need a quick facelift.


A

ttractive background and middleground shrubs and perennials are always important to any mixed border, but it is what you add to the front edge of the bed that immediately grabs the eye’s attention. Here’s our selection of pretty groundcovers and dwarf plants, up to an approximate height of 40cm, that will add colour and texture to the foreground. Happy planting!

Quick tips for great border design A border of just one plant type, such as dark green mondo grass, is neat, very elegant and low maintenance.

If you’d prefer a more colourful look, plant your favourites in bold groups, taking care to pick those with complementing foliage or flower colour.

You can even double up on your border planting by using something taller, like a row of purple-leaved Ipomoea batatas (sweet potato vine) at the back, complemented by the bright yellow and very lowgrowing Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ (creeping Jenny) in the front.

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PLANT GALLERY Alternanthera dentata ‘Little Ruby’ Mounding groundcover with a compact spreading habit and deep burgundy foliage. It loves humidity, is heat tolerant and handles light frost. Plant in sun to semi-shade.

Cuphea hyssopifolia ‘Southern Border’ A classic border shrub – compact and rounded with dense foliage and bright pink flowers from spring to autumn. It is evergreen but tender to cold and frost. Plant in full sun.

Carex hachijoensis ‘Evergold’ A dense, tuft-forming sedge grass with yellow and white foliage with narrow green edges. It is evergreen and cold and frost hardy, and does best in sun to semishade.

Euphorbia hypericifolia ‘Diamond Frost’ These excellent border plants have clouds of small white flowers throughout the year. They are evergreen, good for sun or shade, are cold but not frost tolerant, and are water-wise.

Ophiopogon jaburan A water-wise, tuft-forming grass with dark green, curved leaves, Ophiopogon jaburan is an evergreen and excellent no-worry border plant. It is cold and frost tolerant and can be planted in anything from sun to deep shade.

Acorus gramineus ‘Golden Edge’ An evergreen ornamental grass with goldenyellow to light yellow and green striped leaves. Plant in sun to semi-shade. It is cold and frost tolerant.

Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’ Beautiful yellow foliage – roundish and small. It is an evergreen, low-growing groundcover for sun to semi-shade. It’s cold and frost tender.

Iberis sempervirens An evergreen sub-shrub with fine foliage and clusters of white flowers in spring. It is cold and frost tolerant but needs full sun.

Juniperus horizontalis ‘Monber Icee Blue’ This low-growing, spreading evergreen has silver-blue foliage that intensifies in winter. It requires full sun and is cold and frost hardy.

22 I www.thegardener.co.za


Agapanthus africanus ‘Double Diamond’ This variety of the faithful aggie has lots of small, double, white flowers on sturdy, compact plants in summer. It is cold and frost hardy as well as water-wise, and should be planted in full sun to semi-shade.

Ipomoea batatas ‘Sweet Caroline’ A striking groundcover with veined leaves, the sweet potato vine is dormant in winter. Plant in sun to semi-shade. There are a number of varieties, including ‘Lime’, with light green to chartreusecoloured leaves, and ‘Purple’, with dark purple leaves.

The Gardener’s choice!

Heuchera varieties (coral bells) There are a stunning range of coral bells with exceptional leaf colours and densely packed, creamy white flowers in summer. They are evergreen, cold and frost hardy and prefer sun to shade. Some of our favourite varieties are: ‘Electric Lime’ – vibrant acid-green leaves with prominent red veins in cooler temperatures.

‘Forever Purple’ – ultra purple leaves with fluttered edges. ‘Georgia Plum’ – large peach-coloured leaves with silver overlay. The foliage intensifies to rose purple with a decorative frosted veil in autumn and winter. ‘Paprika’ – large, warm, glowing, cherrycoral foliage. ‘Southern Comfort’ – huge cinnamonpeach leaves changing to burnished copper and amber in cooler weather.



Plant eucomis F

or a spectacular show of tall ‘pineapple-looking’ stems of star-shaped flowers in late summer, plant some of the eucomis varieties in your garden. Colours range from green to pale cream and purple, with foliage arranged in a rosette of broad, strap-shaped leaves. The light-green leaves, sometimes flecked with purple, are smooth with wavy edges. The flowers of some species are sweetly scented, but others have a distinctly unpleasant odour. Nevertheless, they are beautiful planted in garden beds that get morning sun and afternoon shade. Enrich the soil with plenty of compost and keep the soil moist during the growing season.

Plant facts Common names: Pineapple flower, pineapple lily Family: Liliaceae (Hyacinthaceae) Type: Deciduous, perennial bulb Origin: Some 15 species from Lake Nyassa in the north-east of southcentral Africa to the south-western Cape, but mostly in the eastern part of South Africa. www.hadeco.co.za


YOUR ROSE GARDEN

GET THE LOOK Bee-friendly gardens don’t have to be filled with indigenous flowers – many single or semi-double roses attract bees with their fragrance and pollen. Using a floribunda rose like ‘Butterfly Kisses’ and combining it with other pollen-rich plants, like arum lilies and alyssum, draws both bees and butterflies to the garden. ‘Butterfly Kisses’ is a very healthy, free-flowering rose that grows to hip height. It produces large sprays of 25 – 45 single blooms through to winter.

BEE

26 I www.thegardener.co.za

TEXT Ludwig Taschner

rosy this summer


A bee on ‘Lyndal Dawn’.

‘Butterfly Kisses’

‘Courvoisier’

‘Johannesburg Garden Club’

A bee-line for roses In selecting bee-friendly plants for the garden, have you ever considered single or semi-double roses? With their exposed stamens and pistils, the pollen is always fresh and the bees love it. Full-petalled roses, on the other hand, like Antico Moderno roses and hybrid teas, aren’t as accessible to bees, and by the time they open the pollen is past its sell-by date and the bees aren’t interested. Fragrance is another factor that attracts bees, but here’s the mystery; it is a particular fragrance linked to the pollen that attracts bees, and not necessarily the sweet or strong fragrance that gardener’s love. Generally, bees gravitate towards yellow, white, purple, violet or blue flowers. Although there are no true-blue roses, we have found purple roses like ‘Purple Glow’ as well as cerise-pink ‘Lyndal Dawn’ to be the most popular ‘bee magnets’ on our farm.

plant groups of bee-attracting annuals between groups of roses or as an edging, provided plants don’t creep into the roses or compete for water and nutrients. Scabiosa, alyssum, catmint, rudbeckia, echinacea, monarda (bee balm) and agastache are suitable plants.

Quick tips

z

My favourite bee-attracting roses z

z

z

Plant groups of single or semi-double floribunda roses in sufficient numbers (ideally in front of hybrid teas) as this will attract more pollinators than scattered individual plants. Ludwig’s Insect Spray is not harmful to bees, but even so it is advisable to spray early in the morning before bees are active. To attract bees between rose flushes,

z

z

‘Lyndal Dawn’ tops my bee-list because it is the first to flower in spring and continues non-stop until winter. It is a low-maintenance rose with disease-resistant leaves. ‘Iceberg’ and ‘Single White’ are both showy garden roses and are equally loved by gardeners and bees. Lesser-known ‘Single White’ is a self-

z

cleaning, low-maintenance shrublet with spreading growth, ideal for covering large sunny areas of the garden, or for planting in front of ‘Iceberg’. It also performs well in large containers. One of the best-known single floribundas is ‘Johannesburg Garden Club’, a neat shrub growing about 1.1m high and covered with delicate, soft coral-coloured blooms. A mutation (sport) of that rose is ‘Duncan’s Rose’ with deep pink single blooms. ‘Purple Glow’ is a newer rose, with glossy, healthy foliage, flowers that drop off cleanly and neat, hip-high growth. It is good for containers too. Another purple is the low-growing ‘Violetta’, which is compact, and ‘Passion of Stneat Peter’s’ flowers prolifically. www.thegardener.co.za I 27


‘Friesia’ with bee

‘Purple Glow’

‘Single White’

z

z

‘Mermaid’

z

Yellow roses come and go, but ‘Friesia’ remains an outstanding performer, and the bees think so too. It is one of the few fragrant yellow roses, it holds its colour well, and the bushes are neat and compact. Another oldie, ‘Courvoisier’, is also fragrant and appealing to bees. Climber ‘Clair Matin’ also performs like a large dense shrub, growing to roof height. It is a repeat-flowering climbing rose and its semi-double blooms with very prominent golden stamens attract bees. Other climbers that attract bees are ‘Mermaid’ (pale yellow flowers) and ‘Ballerina’, which produces large trusses of small, single pink-and-white flowers. As a security barrier-hedge, ‘Rosa Bracteata Macartney’ (white petals with prominent golden stamens) covers up to 10m2, enveloping fences and walls. It flowers from November into May and is superbly disease resistant.

ROSE TASKS FOR NOVEMBER z z

z

z

z

If there is no rain, water 2 – 3 times a week. During prolonged hot and dry conditions check the under-side of leaves for red spider. If they are detected, spray immediately with Milbeknock with a follow-up application a week later. If there is rain, prevent black spot by spraying with Chronos or Rose Protector mixed with Ludwig’s Insect Spray, which will repel aphids, bollworm, and light infestations of red spider and beetles at the same time. Fertilise with Vigorosa midNovember and water well afterwards. Keep on disbudding and deadheading.




PROUDLY SOUTH AFRICAN

Beautiful, useful, round-leaf kiaat Pterocarpus rotundifolius

TEXT and PHOTOGRAPH Graham Duncan

T

he round-leaf kiaat or dopperkiaat (Pterocarpus rotundifolius) is one of Africa’s most beautiful trees. A member of the legume or pea family Fabaceae, it is native to South Africa’s summer-rainfall provinces in northern KwaZulu-Natal, Mpumalanga, Limpopo and North West (South African Tree Number 237) and also occurs in Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Mozambique and Zambia. This usually deciduous, small, medium-sized or rarely large tree grows 3 – 15m high with a spread of up to 10m, and occurs in hot, high-rainfall savannah and woodland on rocky hillsides. It has a light grey-brown, peeling bark and is often multi-stemmed, developing a rounded crown of deep shiny green, compound leaves with round leaflets. Dense sprays of luminous bright yellow, honey-scented flowers with wavy petals appear at any time in spring and summer from September to February. The flowers are followed by large, circular, brown papery seedpods (hence the genus name

Pterocarpus, meaning ‘winged fruit’) containing a single seed surrounded by a large wavy-edged wing. The round-leaf kiaat likes hot, moist summers and cool, dry winters. It prefers frost-free conditions but is moderately hardy and will survive down to -5°C. It requires full sun and is fast-growing, flourishing in well-drained loamy soils containing plenty of well-rotted compost. It’s best planted out from nursery bags in spring and benefits from regular heavy watering for the first year, but once fully established it is remarkably drought resistant. It’s most effectively displayed as a specimen feature or in groups as a backdrop to shrubs. With careful light pruning after flowering it can be kept small at around 3m, but if left to its own devices it is ideal for medium-sized or large gardens, providing excellent shade. In its natural habitat this species regenerates after bush fires and browsing and it is usually deciduous, but in the mild winter climate experienced at Kirstenbosch

National Botanical Garden it remains evergreen. More than one flush of flowers is sometimes produced per season, and even when not in flower the large hanging seedpods remain attractive on the tree. Its nectar and pollen are strongly attractive to honeybees and it is of great value to beekeepers. It’s also visited by wasps and other insects, which in turn attract insectivorous birds. Larvae of the bushveld emperor butterfly (Charaxes achaemenes) and the veined skipper butterfly (Abantis venosa) feed on the leaves. The wood is used in the manufacture of furniture and household utensils and as firewood. Propagation is easiest from seed sown in spring after overnight soaking in hot water, and cuttings or truncheons can also be taken at this time of year. Plant material is available from Random Harvest Nursery (082 553 0598) and seeds can be ordered from Silverhill Seeds (021 762 4245).

www.thegardener.co.za I 31


PRACTICAL GARDENING

Acanthus mollis (bear’s breeches) Dymondia margaretae (silver carpet)

Coping with brackish water What do you do if your water quality is affecting your garden?

I

f faced with brackish water, your first step should be to check out what’s growing successfully in neighbouring gardens with the same problem, and then simply to plant the same. But also do the following: z

Add copious loads of organic material, like compost and well-rotted kraal manure, when preparing the soil before planting. Don’t skimp on this step! Generous layers of organic mulch

32 I www.thegardener.co.za

z

z

around plants can also work as a buffer against the building up of a salt layer on the soil’s surface. Try to form raised shrub beds that are higher than the normal soil level, as this can reduce the effects of brackish water. Irrigate less regularly but deeply. Water at soil level, taking care not to wet the whole plant as the leaves might burn and curl up. It helps to pick plants that are known to use only a little water once established.


GROUNDCOVERS AND PERENNIALS Dymondia margaretae (silver carpet) can be used between paving blocks or as a living mulch around other plants. Limonium perezii (sea lavender) is evergreen and will give you dark blue papery flowers on tall stems throughout the year. Acanthus mollis (bear’s breeches) is perfect for sunny or shady areas. It produces glossy green lobed leaves and tall stalks of white flowers with mauve bracts in late summer. Other old stalwarts to try include vygies, gazanias, arctotis, red-hot pokers, chlorophytum, agapanthus, wild iris, wild garlic, arum lilies, and the very hardy salt bush (Einadia hastata)

Limonium perezii (sea lavender)

SUCCULENTS Aloe arborescens (krantz aloe) is perfect to use as security hedging and will supply bright winter colour. Bulbine frutescens is a clumping plant with fleshy, greyish green leaves and bright orange or yellow flowers in winter to spring. Portulacaria afra can be used as a screening or hedge plant and tolerates brackish water with ease.

Portulacaria afra

Bulbine frutescens


PRACTICAL GARDENING

SHRUBS AND TREES Barleria albostella is a pretty shrub for light shade, with woolly grey leaves and white flowers. Grewia occidentalis (crossberry) is a pretty, large shrub or small tree with pink flowers. Also try Carissa macrocarpa (num-num), Eriocephalus africanus (wild rosemary), Melianthus major (giant honey flower), plumbago, leonotis (wild dagga), buddlejas and the perennial indigenous salvias.

Barleria albostella Grewia occidentalis (crossberry)


When next visiting a garden centre, make sure it is a GCA garden centre. Leading garden centres belong to the Garden Centre Association and each one has to achieve a high level of good business practice before they can be accepted as an Approved Member. At GCA member garden centres you can be assured of excellent levels of service, plants of quality and associated products, together with innovative life-style displays, professional advice and information. t

t

t

t

GCA Garden Centres constantly strive to improve nursery standards and are guided by the National Association. GCA Garden Centres are committed to selling healthy and good quality products. These Garden Centres are always on top of new legislation concerning the bio-diversity Act and are committed to not sell any alien invasive plants. GCA Garden Centres are committed to contribute to help save our planet, by supporting recycling initiatives instore.

Proud Diamond sponsors to the Garden Centre Association

www.thegardener.co.za I 35


Shop at a

Garden Centre Association Nursery or Garden Centre near you Eastern Cape

Colourful Splendour Nursery

011 447 5817

Cornwall Hill Plantland

012 667 6330

Craighall Park Builders Express

010 003 6000

Crowthorne Plantland

011 702 2188

Dainfern Garden Centre

081 420 8171

Eckards Garden Pavilion

011 453 8573

Edenvale Builders Warehouse

086 000 8902

Flora Farm Garden Shop

011 894 2377

Florida Glen Builders Express

010 003 5206

4 Seasons Garden Centre

016 341 5248

Garden Delight

083 441 0611

Garden World

011 9572545

Germiston Plant Ranch

011 8932033

Gleneagles Builders Warehouse

086 000 8901

Greenstone Builders Express

086 000 9526

Hecker Nursery

011 894 3643

Keith Kirsten Garden Centre

011 517 2525

Kempton Park Builders Warehouse 086 000 8912 Krugersdorp Plantland

011 964 1441

Lambton Builders Express

086 099 4184

Lifestyle Family Garden Centre

011 792 8244

Lombardy Plantland

012 809 2120

Greenside Kwekery

051 451 3042

Ludwig Roses Egoli

011 458 6045

East London Builders Express

086 099 4196

Plants@Preller

051 436 7678

Lynnwood Builders Express

012 003 5000

Floradale Nurseries PE

041 368 5169

Pretty Gardens Tuinsentrum

051 4511069

Menlo Park Garden Shop

012 460 5137

Floradale Nurseries EL

043 748 2420

Urth Garden Centre

082 696 7876

Menlyn Plantland

012 348 7121

Jeffrey’s Bay Builders Express

086 099 4178

Mercury Build It

011 897 3100

Midstream Garden Centre

087 805 5248

Newton Park PE Builders Express 086 099 4192

Gauteng

Port Elizabeth Builders Warehouse 086 000 8900

Akasia Plantland

Queenstown Builders Express

086 000 8946

Bedworth Park Builders Warehouse 086 000 8914

Nicolas Plants Northriding

Red Leaf Nursery

046 624 8530

Boksburg Builders Warehouse

Northriding Builders Warehouse 086 000 8906

Uitenhage Builders Express

086 000 9518

Brandmullers Vaal Garden Pavilion 016 428 3351

Norwood Builders Express

086 099 4189

Walker Drive P.E Builders Express 086 099 4190

Broadacres Garden Shop

011 465 4216

Parktown North Garden Shop

011 447 2368

Walmer P.E Builders Express

Bryanston Builders Express

086 099 4179

Plant Paradise Garden Centre

012 998 5480

Bryanston Garden Shop

011 463 5773

Plant Ranch

012 664 5777

Carnival Builders Express

086 000 8935

Random Harvest Indigenous Nursery 011 957 5354

057 392 1940

Cedar Square Builders Express

086 000 8999

Raslouw Builders Express

086 000 8976

Bloemfontein Builders Warehouse 086 000 8909

Centurion Builders Warehouse

086 000 9528

Rivonia Builders Warehouse

086 000 8913

Bruwer Kwekery Bk

CND Nursery

087 940 9617

Robindale Builders Express

010 595 3586

086 099 4183

Free State Alma Kwekery

051 433 2072

012 549 4945 086 000 8 923

New Market Builders Warehouse 086 099 4181 011 704 1938


Safari Tuinsentrum

012 807 0009

Schaffler’s Garden Nursery

011 786 0323

Limpopo

Soleil Ludwig Roses

012 807 2091

Greener Tidings

015 296 0303

Bellville Stodels Nurseries

021 919 1106

Southgate Builders Express

010 594 0401

Hardekoolskroon Kwekery

015 781 7952

Cape Garden Centre

021 988 4137

Polokwane Builders Warehouse

086 000 8911

Cape Gate Builders Warehouse

086 000 8925

City Builders Warehouse

086 000 8921

Strubens Valley Builders Warehouse 0860 008 905

Western Cape

Sunkist Garden Pavilion

082 809-6258

Sunward Park Builders Express

010 596 6300

Mpumalanga

The Wilds Plantland

012 991 3061

Emalahleni Builders Warehouse

086 000 8918

Constantia Stodels Nurseries

021 794 2221

Thyme Square Garden Centre

011 949 4210

Fever Tree Nursery

013 755 6012

George Builders Warehouse

086 000 8929

Wonderpark Builders Express

086 099 4185

Garden Pavilion White River

013 750 0719

Helderberg Builders Warehouse

086 000 8922

Woodlands Builders Warehouse

086 000 8915

Imbali Garden Centre

013 235 4062

Hermanus Builders Express

086 000 8965

Zambesi Builders Warehouse

086 000 8909

Concrete Garden Creations

013 745 8386

Kenilworth Builders Express

086 099 4187

Zambesi Plantland

012 808 1544

Middelburg Builders Express

086 000 8926

Kenilworth Stodels Nurseries

021 671 9050

Montana Garden Pavilion

013 741 3348

Knysna Builders Express

086 000 8936

Nelspruit Builders Warehouse

086 000 8910

Landscape Art Garden Centre

083 380 1544

KwaZulu-Natal

Constantia Berg Builders Warehouse 086 000 8919

Amanzimtoti Builders Express

031 904 7300

Ninfa Tuinsentrum

013 243 5626

Ludwig Roses Winelands

021 884 4552

Assagay Nursery

031 768 1333

Secunda Builders Warehouse

086 000 8971

Milnerton Stodels Nurseries

021 528 4000

Ballito Builders Express

032 947 2605

N1 City Builders Express

086 000 8988

Blackwood Home of Gardening

033 342 2191

North West

Durban North Builders Express

031 940 0145

Clarks Tuinsentrum

018 632 3542

Starke Ayres Garden Centre

021 685 4120

Garden Pavilion Halls

031 903 6737

Countryside Kwekery

076 632 1775

Stellenbosch Builders Express

086 099 4197

Hillcrest Builders Express

031 765 7711

Garden Pavilion Potchefstroom

018 290 6113

Stellenbosch Cape Garden Centre 021 855 0334

Hingham Nursery

031 564 3092

Geelhout Gardens

014 597 4382

Stodels Nurseries Somerset West 021 852 7400

Illovo Nursery

031 916 2491

Klerksdorp Builders Warehouse

086 000 8930

Table View Builders Warehouse

086 000 8924

Ludwig’s Star Roses

081 380 8496

Potchefstroom Builders Express

086 000 8990

Tulbagh Kwekery

023 230 0694

Newcastle Builders Warehouse

086 000 8932

Sittig Nursery

012 259 0900

Tygerberg Builders Warehouse

086 000 8920

Park Rynie Builders Express

039 976 1328

West Coast Village Starke Ayres

021 554 8450

Willowbridge Builders Express

086 099 4193

Worcester Builders Express

086 000 8986

Pietermaritzburg Builders Express 033 342 5410

Northern Cape

Pinetown Builders Express

086 099 4195

Vreedendal Kwekery

Plant Nursery

031 466 5599

Somerset West Cape Garden Centre 021 858 1157

027 213 2253

Richards Bay Builders Warehouse 035 940 0600 Riverhorse Builders Warehouse

086 000 8917

Rossburgh Builders Warehouse

031 941 1550

Sebenza Garden Centre

039 312 0378

South Coast Builders Express

039 315 0350

That Nursery

071 355 6699

Twinstream Indiginous Nursery

082 776 8128

Umhlanga Builders Express

031 566 3650 www.sana.co.za

www.lifeisagarden.co.za


EVERYDAY GARDENING

Pool time! TEXT Anna Celliers

Summer’s coming and the family will soon be back spending lots of time in the swimming pool. Here’s a quick checklist to get ready for some wet fun in the sun.


Reduce water wastage z z

z z z

Invest in a pool cover as it reduces evaporation, conserves heat and can reduce the use of chemicals. Allow the water level to be a little lower (your pool contractor will advise on a safe level) as splashing and playing in a pool that is filled to the top wastes a lot of water. Check all pool plumbing equipment for leaks. Only use fountains and waterfalls when you are entertaining, to reduce evaporation. Backwash the pool less often and try to install a poolside tank to filter the water for use on the lawn and garden. This equipment is available on the market.

SAFETY FIRST Check your pool fencing and play equipment for weak points and have them fixed as soon as possible. Also examine the pool surrounds for loose tiles and paving blocks, as they can be dangerous to playing kids.


THINK ABOUT SHADE Although the young ones will want lots of sun to tan their bleak winter legs, we must remember that we live in a very hot climate and the sun can cause severe skin damage. It’s also nice to have a little shade at the shallow end of the pool where toddlers splash while their grandmother watches. A great way to add shade is by investing in a large cantilevered umbrella or elegant shade sail, available at homeware stores.

Accessorise your pool surrounds Sparkling water If you’ve been battling with algae growth and murky pool water, call in the help of a pool contractor to help you to get your pool bright and sparkling once again.

40 I www.thegardener.co.za

Buy sturdy and comfortable sun loungers, and maybe a daybed too, and definitely some side tables for cool drinks and snacks. Make up pretty scatter cushions with the lovely botanical prints that are so in fashion this year. A must-have accessory for a pool garden is a large, all-weather storage box in which to store cushions, pool noodles, balls, bats, lilos and other poolside paraphernalia – this makes packing up after a fun-filled day at the pool easy, and you will never again have to hunt down the stuff when needed.


EVERYDAY GARDENING

Cordyline ‘Electric Pink’

Cordyline ‘Electric Flash’

Duranta ‘Sheena’s Gold’

Zoosh up your pool garden Although you shouldn’t overplant or create a fussy garden around a pool, it’s nice to have a few large containers in strategic places to add some greenery or colour. Great accent plants to plant in containers or in beds near a pool include all the latest stripe-leaved cordylines like ‘Cha-Cha’, ‘Can-Can’, ‘Electric Flash’ or ‘Electric Pink’. Phormiums like ‘Blondie’ and Duranta ‘Sheena’s Gold’ and ‘Goldmine’ will look equally elegant. For bright colour fill up a few containers with petunias and pelargoniums. Container with pelargonium.

Bright colour in pots. www.thegardener.co.za I 41


Your Gardening Partner

Imagine having this in your fairy-tale garden... Visit Plantland for these products and more‌ BRANCHES Plantland Akasia Old Brits Way (R513) Tel: 082 572 2419 Plantland Lombardy Lynwood Road, east of Silverlakes Tel: 012 817 2057

Visit our website for gardening hints and tips Plantland Crowthorne Cnr New Road & Whisken Tel: 011 702 2188

Plantland Cornwall Hill Cnr Nelmapius & Cornwood Drive Tel: 012 667 6330

Plantland Menlyn Cnr Atterbury & January Masilela Roads Tel: 012 348 7121

Plantland The Wilds Cnr Atterbury & Olympus Drive Tel: 012 991 3061

www.plantland.co.za Plantland Krugersdorp Cnr R28 & Robert Broom Drive Tel: 011 954 1441 Plantland Zambesi Cnr Sefako Makgato Drive & Derdepoort Drive Tel: 012 819 1664


POT RECIPE

Summer in a basket

Hanging baskets add a different dimension to a garden when hung at eye-level, and they can be changed up seasonally to make use of annual colour.

Purple bedding salvia Antirrhinum (mini snapdragons)

White petunia

Hypoestes phyllostachya (polka dot plant)

Lobelia www.thegardener.co.za I 43


What you need A coir-lined basket Potting soil Palm peat Vermiculite Organic fertiliser pellets Water-retention granules or waterwise crystals A selection of plants Liquid plant food Scissors Craft knife Black plastic A pot or bucket to rest the basket on A bucket for soil mixing

What you do 1.

2. 3.

4. 5.

6. 7. 8.

Add Âź bucket of potting soil to a bucket and mix in 2 cups of vermiculite, 2 cups of palm peat (reconstituted in water beforehand), a handful of organic pellets and a spoonful of water-retention granules. Mix well. Place the basket on a pot or bucket so that you have access to the sides. Place the coir liner in the basket and cover the interior with black plastic, cutting off the excess. Poke some holes in the plastic at the bottom of the basket for drainage. Fill the basket halfway with the enhanced soil mixture. Use a craft knife or scissors to cut crosses in the side of the basket liner and plastic, then carefully push through the lobelia, roots first, into the basket. Add some more soil and pat down. Position the other plants in the top of the basket and fill in with soil. Stand in a bucket of water for 20 minutes. Hang up at eye level. Feed every two weeks with a liquid plant food.

44 I www.thegardener.co.za




PEST CONTROL

Understanding DIATOMACEOUS earth TEXT Paul Donovan

Do away with bugs the natural way.

I

n this day and age of environmental awareness, many of us are looking for more environmentally friendly approaches to pest control, rather than resorting to the use of broadspectrum insecticides, which are as toxic to beneficial insects as they are pest species. One of the alternatives is diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth (DE) was first sold as a natural pesticide back in 1960. Its advantage over other forms of pest control is that it is an entirely natural, easy-to-use product. It has no impact on the environment and is harmless to most higher life forms. Furthermore, as DE is a natural substance, insects cannot build up resistance to it.

Definition Despite its name, DE is not a soil but a naturally occurring rock comprising of the fossilised remains of single-celled, algae-like plants called diatoms. Diatoms

still exist today and are one of the most common forms of phytoplankton found in water, but those from which DE is manufactured existed millions of years ago. As the great lakes dried up, the skeletons of these diatoms (which consist of 33% silicon, 19% calcium, 5% sodium, 3% magnesium, 2% iron, plus other trace elements) left behind deposits called diatomite. When we mine this the product is a chalk-like product.

How does it work? Although it may appear to have a soft texture, if we look at it beneath a microscope the crushed diatoms have sharp, jagged edges resembling shards of glass. These sharp edges not only cut into the exoskeleton of the pest, but the powder also has the ability to absorb the lipids from the waxy outer layer of the insects’ skin, which causes it to dehydrate. And if any DE is ingested,

When viewed beneath a microscope, the crushed diatoms have fractured into sharp splinters resembling shards of glass. the insides of the pest are shredded. It is these attributes that give DE its properties as a viable pest-control agent.

Food grade Diatomaceous earth is manufactured to suit a number of applications. For use as a pest control it is important to purchase ‘food-grade’ quality, and NOT the one that www.thegardener.co.za I 47


It takes time When using DE for pest control it is important to remember that as a natural control agent, it will take longer to be effective than more conventional forms of control. So you should be prepared to have to wait a while, and lose some plant growth. Depending on the extent of infestation and the pest being treated, it may take several days for DE earth to eradicate the problem.

Tail-end DE is not selective in the insects it kills, and will kill beneficial insects such as bees just as it will kill harmful pests such as aphids. For this reason I always use DE as a ‘spot treatment’, sprinkling it on the pest rather than dusting the entire plant. If at all possible, avoid using it on flower heads to prevent important pollinators from being harmed.

Slugs and snails can be deterred by spreading diatomaceous earth around the base of a plant.

Diatomaceous earth and your pets Depending on the size of the pest, DE will take time to kill them.

is marketed for swimming pool filters, as this has a higher content of free silica and is not as effective.

What is it effective against? DE is affective against a wide range of soft-bodied pests such as aphids, mites, thrips, small caterpillars, vine borers and other similar insects.

How do you use it?

Don’t be under the illusion that diatomaceous earth is limited to garden pest control only. Its widely used by pet lovers to control ticks and mites in cats and dogs. I keep chickens and use it for the same purpose, and it can also be used in cage birds. Gently rub the diatomaceous earth into the fur or feathers of your pet – not only will it deal with deep-seated pests, but it will also help to clean the fur/feathers. Food-grade DE is completely harmless if ingested, so there’s no need to worry if your pet licks it off themselves. Some of it may be absorbed into the body, where it will help with bone growth, and excess will be excreted.

Diatomaceous earth is a powder-like substance made from microscopic, algaelike plants called diatoms.

DE is simple to use. Depending on the extent of the pest infestation and the size of the pests in question, simply sprinkle it over the pest with the fingers, or via some sort of shaker.

Slugs and ground crawlers Spreading a ring of DE around the base of the plant will help to deter slugs, snails and other soft-bodied insects from attacking the plant. In my experience, though, DE has little effect in killing slugs or snails due to the ‘slime’ they secrete as they slither along, which helps to protect the soft body. It seems as they can detect the sharpness of the DE and avoid crossing it. 48 I www.thegardener.co.za

DE is most effective against softbodied pests such as aphids.

Wetting the leaf will allow diatomaceous earth to stick to it.



FOOD GARDENING

HERBS

for summer SKIN AILMENTS

Summer can be hard on our skin. There’s sunburn, mozzie bites, and cuts, scratches or grazes that come from being outdoors, whether it’s hiking, gardening or playing sport. A natural way to relieve external skin problems is with herbs, especially the aromatic herbs that have such a strong, fresh and lovely fragrance. With herbs at hand you don’t have to rummage through the bathroom cabinet or dash to the pharmacy.

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Take the sting out of sunburn Now, we all know that we should never go into the sun without sunscreen. But sometimes we forget, or the sunscreen washes off, or we just miss a spot. The result: sore and red skin.

3 Herbs that soothe sunburn z

z

z

Mozzie busters

Add a strong infusion of German chamomile to bathwater to soothe and cool sunburned skin. Chamomile’s anti-inflammatory and pain-relieving properties help to relieve the sting. This herb is a frost-hardy annual that grows in sun or semishade, to a height of 60cm and spread of 40cm. English lavender is another soothing herb that can be added to the bathwater. Add fresh herbs to the running bath water or put the herbs in a thin cloth bag and hang it under the hot tap so that the water runs through it as the bath fills. Lavender oil helps to quickly heal sunburned skins, and also reduces scarring. Good to know: Lavandula intermedia ‘Margaret Roberts’ can equally be used for healing. It flowers continually and may grow very large, but responds well to light trimming. Calendula petals contain vitamins A and C, and antioxidants that help repair cell damage from UV rays. Being a winter-flowering annual, make a point of harvesting the petals in August to make a cream that can be stored. To make a cream, melt 200g aqueous cream in a double boiler and add 60g of calendula petals. Simmer for 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Strain the mix through fine gauze and pour into a container.

ork? H ow do es it w dy odour, at tracted to bo e ar es ito qu os M the bo dy ’s work by masking and repellent s at a dist ance, ing mosquito es scent and ke ep ell. That is why sm don’t like the ey th l. if ly al ci espe rbs work so wel me aromatic he b ru to y ar the leaves of so cess however, it’s ne To be ef fe ctive, e this releases us ca be , in sk the the leaves onto on the sk in. oi d leaves the ls an ce an gr fra r thei

TEXT Alice Spenser-Higgs

hing rela xe d es from gate cras ito qu os m op St urbing your the braai or dist evenings around nearby moz zie g a leaf from a sa It’ . in sk sle ep by pick in ur yo d rubbing it on busting herb an -based sprays using chemical an th r ie th al he t lo and creams.


5 mosquito-repellent herbs that can be grown in pots and kept on the patio. Lemon balm, basil, citronella geranium, catnip and lavender.

Good to know: Add twigs of sage or rosemary to the braai fire – it not only smells good but keeps the insects away too (if you’re near the smoke).

Our pick:

keep Lemon balm has lemon-scented leaves that t insec an be there ld Shou . away ts all biting insec to wash a as s leave the of ion infus an use bite, does relieve inflammation. Good to know: This herb have s best in full sun. Its leave other healing, soothing and antidepressant actions. is so called for its strong nium gera Citronella is a hardy perennial that It nce. fragra ike ella-l citron s to release grows 80cm high and wide. Bruise the leave will ater bathw the to s leave g the fragrance. Addin s grow stem the If : know to Good skin. the also soothe Prune it sun. more s need plant the over, fall and lanky to get it back into shape. Swee t basil may be a universal fresh favourite, but not for mozzies. While picking ve reser s, dishe pasta y yumm leaves for the salad or s leave The lent. repel a as skin your on a few to rub g itchin es also have an antiseptic action that reliev ially from bites or stings. Good to know: Basil, espec s leave the o Mexic In too. flies s perennial basil, repel ets. blank and s horse over are rubb ed

Help for itchy pets Salves and shampoos can bring relief to the symptoms, but they don’t always treat the cause. To supplement veterinary treatment, use thyme as a tonic to support the body to find a cure for itself. Add an infusion of thyme to the drinking water or cook it with the dog food. Even if the diet consists mainly of biscuits, a side dish of cooked chicken, rice and gravy will usually be gobbled up. For external relief, spray an infusion of thyme onto the skin or add the essential oil to aqueous cream for use as a salve. Lavender also has antifungal properties and could be used in the same way. For more information visit www.healthylivng-herbs.co.za.


FIRST AID FOR SKIN Herbs most commonly associated with healing or soothing skin problems are bulbinella, calendula, comfrey, lemon balm, tea tree and thyme. All have anti-microbial properties, which include antifungal and antibacterial actions. Bulbinella, also known as the burn jelly plant, is probably the most effective first-aid herb for skin. Just snap a leaf and rub the jelly-like juice onto a burn, blister, cut, cracked skin, insect sting or bite, or rash. It’s even used for acne and cold sores. When the jelly dries it seals the wound and forms a protective cover. Good to know: It is indigenous, water-wise and multiplies quickly. It’s also good for areas of dry shade. Tea tree is a strong, effective natural antiseptic. Infusions of the leaves and flowers should only be used externally to wash an infected area before applying cream or ointment. It can also be used as a mouthwash for ulcers. Good to know: Tea tree grows into a large 4m-high shrub that is drought tolerant. Thyme is such a multi-purpose first-aid herb, it’s no surprise that its healing action extends to relieving bites and stings as well as bacterial and fungal skin infections like athlete’s foot. Good to know: It is drought tolerant, grows in poor soil, and responds well to pruning or trimming. Comfrey is a traditional woundhealing herb because it has anti-inflammatory properties and contains allantoin, a cell-proliferant that helps to repair damaged tissue. Apply as an ointment for sunburn, skin irritations, itchy skin, and to relieve insect bites and stings. Don’t apply to open wounds. To make a comfrey ointment: Wash, dry and chop 150g fresh comfrey leaves. Melt 500g petroleum jelly in a double boiler or a china bowl over a pot of boiling water. Add the chopped comfrey leaves and simmer for an hour, stirring continuously. Make sure the water does not boil away. To protect your hands from the hot mixture, put on rubber gloves and pour the mixture into a muslin bag and squeeze as much of it as possible into a bowl. Pour the strained liquid into a sterilised bottle before it starts to set. Let the ointment cool before sealing. Can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three months.


5

Budgetbeating ideas for the veggie garden

Times are tough and money is tight. Gardening is no t cheap, and it’s easy to be pe nny wise and pound foolish . In permaculture, garden ers make use of ever ything arou nd them and it’s amazing how much is for free, or almost for free.

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Make your own fertiliser

1

This can be a real money saver and it is quite simple. It can take the form of a worm compost tea, a manure tea or a green tea (using mineral- and nitrogen-rich plants). The term ‘tea’ aptly describes the process: the ingredients are put in a porous bag, dunked in cold water and left to draw. By making a tea, the nutrients are soaked out and become available sooner than through composting.

You’ll need A bucket or mediumsized dustbin, a sack (an orange or gem squash pocket is ideal), some string and a stick, and a cool, shady place.

Manure tea Only two handfuls of chicken manure are needed compared to 3 – 5 handfuls of cow or horse manure. Bagged manure from nurseries is an easy source. The manure tea is ready when it looks like weak tea. Manure tea is a good root drench for vegetables, flowers and containers. If using for seedlings the dilution rate should be 1:12 but for larger plants can be 1:7 or 1:10.

Green tea Use any soft, dark green leaves, especially comfrey, yarrow, amaranth and borage leaves, which are high in minerals. Tear or bruise the leaves to release the chlorophyll faster. Leave for about a week, stirring once a day. Green tea is best for leafy vegetables. For instance, comfrey tea is a plant cell builder that can be applied once a week, early in the morning. The dilution rate is generally 1 part tea to 7 parts water.

2 Find the freebies Many people dump their leaves, grass and wood clippings. Offer to take it off their hands, harvest from the pavement or the municipality’s garden waste sites, and use to make compost and as mulch. Check construction sites for free bricks and stones for paths and borders. Shred your Sunday newspapers and add them to the compost. If you are a coffee lover, save the grounds and ask the local coffee shop for theirs.

What’s good about coffee grounds

Worm compost tea is a cinch to make if you have a wormery. Scoop up a handful or two of worm compost (aka vermicompost), put it in a bag made from porous material (pantyhose, t-shirt etc), tie it closed and leave it in a bucket of water overnight. The next morning the water will be pale brown and can be used as a drench, diluted 50:50 with water, to make it go further. It encourages microorganisms.

O

O O

O Used coffee grounds add nitrogen to the compost. They are regarded as ‘green’ and should be balanced with ‘brown’ material. Added to the soil, used coffee grounds improve aeration, drainage and water retention. Coffee grounds will also attract earthworms. Use as a mulch and to repel snails and slugs. Add to the wormery as worm food.

GOOD TO KNOW!

Fresh coffee grounds are acidic but used coffee grounds are neutral. If you are worried, just rinse them before using.

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Veggies that keep on givi

ng

We all have our fav ourite ve ggies but there are some other criteria to consider when choo sing ve ggies:

O

O O

3

Use what you have (or scrounge)

O

O Quick to harve st: Radishes, spring onions, loose -leaf let tuce, baby marrows, bush beans, be etroot (as baby be ets), Sw iss chard, carrots (as babies). Continuous yields: Runner beans, kale, Swiss chard, spring onions, indetermina te tomato es . Lower nutritional de mands: Carrots, be etroot, radishes, green beans. Ve ggies with me diu m to low water ne ed s: Parsley, potatoes, pe as, broccoli, onions, be etroot, beans, ca rrots, parsnips, mieli es, radishes, thyme. Space savers: Runn er beans, indeterm inate tomato es, cucumb er, butternut, gem squashes and pump kins can all be traine d vertically

Before throwing anything away, look at how it could be re-used or re-purposed. Instead of seedling trays use jumbo or extra-large egg cartons (the cavities need to be deep enough), yoghurt tubs or tins (with holes punched in the bottom). Don’t throw away old plant pots, just wash and re-use them. Just about anything can be used as a container for herbs or veggies: old toolboxes, trunks, kitchen pots, leaking buckets. Make a cold frame from salvaged window frames and discarded dresser drawers.

stic 3 ideas for 2-litre pla

bottles

gs place over se edlin t of f the base and cu e: ch clo a e ak O M st. the bottom cut to protec t from fro ‘head-fir st ’, with t an pl a r to xt ne y of getting wate O Sink one as a water-wise wa r te wa th wi it l of f. Fil s. dire ct to the ro ot cut out a se ction ontally on a wall, riz ho es ttl bo g rin fy ve ggies and St O soil and grow lea ng tti po th wi l fil on top, herbs.

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5

Pool resources Share seeds, tools like picks, shredders, wheelbarrows, and even forks and spades. Buy compost or potting soil in bulk and split between friends. If you know someone with a wormery, ask them for a handful of red wrigglers and get your own wormery going. Pass on the benefit by encouraging friends to start their own wormery and supply the start-up worms. Share excess harvest or even mulching materials. That adage works: the more you give the more you receive.


NOVEMBER SOWING GUIDE

GARDEN TASKS FOR NOVEMBER If you stand still long enough you can see the veggies growing. Not that there is time to stand still; keep sowing summer veggies, weeding, watering and mulching. The reward for your labours is a great sense of satisfaction, spring veggies to harvest, and maybe an aching back!

CHECKLIST z

z z z z

z

Prevent white fly and aphids on tomatoes and other crops by spraying once a week with Ludwig’s Insect Spray or Margaret Roberts Organic Insecticide. Start spraying two weeks after transplanting seedlings. Stop spraying when you are satisfied that the plants are clean, but keep on checking and spray as soon as you see evidence of them. Remove fruit beetles, CMR and Christmas beetles by hand. Keep the soil mulched, especially around large vegetables. Water seedlings daily and larger vegetables twice a week for longer. Thin out seedlings. Pinch off the growing tips of brinjals and capsicums when 20cm high to encourage them to bush. Keep up succession sowing.

5 minutes to spare Weed a section of the veggie garden each day and pull the weeds out by the roots – that’s the only way to eradicate them.

10 minutes to spare Boost seedlings with a drench of liquid fertiliser (home-made!)

GOOD TO KNOW Pinching off the growing tip of cucumber plants once the plant has developed six leaves encourages it to bush. Pinch side shoots as well as this will encourage further fruit-bearing laterals. As soon as a fruit forms, cut back the stem to just beyond the fruit so that the plant’s strength goes into forming that fruit.

REGION

VEGETABLE

Highveld and KwaZuluNatal Midlands

Asparagus, bush and runner beans, cabbage, celery, cucumber, melons and water melons, sweetcorn/ mealies, pumpkins, radishes, spinach, bush and trailing squashes, tomatoes

Middleveld (Pretoria and other less frosty areas)

Asparagus, bush and runner beans, beetroot, brinjals, cucumbers, sweetcorn/mealies, bush and trailing squashes, sweet melons, pumpkins, spinach, tomatoes

Eastern Cape and Little Karoo

Asparagus, bush and runner beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cucumber, sweetcorn/ mealies, pumpkins, radishes, bush and trailing squashes, Swiss chard

Western Cape (and Southern Coast)

Asparagus, bush and runner beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, lettuce, sweet melons, sweetcorn/mealies, pumpkins, bush and trailing squashes, tomato

Northern Cape and Great Karoo

Asparagus, bush and runner beans, cabbage, cauliflower, cucumber, sweetcorn/mealies, pumpkins, spinach, bush and trailing squashes, tomatoes

Lowveld and KwaZuluNatal Coast

Sweetcorn/mealies


Types of

bees

A long-tongued bee about to take nectar from an aloe flower, with its long tongue extended. Photograph by D. Martins

Bees are classified according to common character traits.

B

ees can be classified in many different ways. Their taxonomic classification uses shared characteristics that are indicative of relatedness between species, and this is best expressed as an evolutionary tree. However, nest architecture, sociality and floral biology can also be used to classify bees. According to taxonomic classification, any species can only belong to one group. Other classification systems cross taxonomic boundaries, and species groups will differ according to the classification criteria. Buzz pollinators, for example, will include some carpenters and some diggers, but neither all carpenter nor all diggers. The different classification systems have their uses.

Bees identification South African bees are divided into six cosmopolitan families. Four of them (Melittidae, Colletidae, Andrenidae and Halictidae) are short-tongued bees. They may be able to extend their mouthparts a long way into tubular flowers, but then the entire mouthparts will be elongated and not just the 58 I www.thegardener.co.za

A short-tongued bee resting on a grass stalk. Photograph by P. Webb

tongue. Two families are long-tongued bees (Apidae, Megachilidae). The South African pollen-collecting bees can all quite easily be placed into families using The Bee Genera and Subgenera of sub-Saharan Africa (http:// www.abctaxa.be/volumes/vol-7-bees/). This booklet can also be used for identifying bee genera and sub-genera.

Bee nests Bees construct their nests, and the cells within their nests, in many different ways. Some of these are unique to a taxonomic group: all leafcutter bees belong to the genus Megachile, but not all Megachile species are leafcutters – some are daubers or resin bees. Carder bees belong to several closely related genera. Mining tunnels into the ground occurs in many unrelated genera (and in different families), and boring into wood occurs in both longtongued bee families. Knowing their nest architecture is useful for specific purposes. Tunnel-nesting bees, for example, only inhabit bee hotels, which are artificially provided tunnels for bees, usually in wood. Bees with similar nests could behave quite

A miner bee entering its nest in a termite hill. Photograph at Ujubee.com

differently in them. Some small carpenter bees are social, with very small colonies, whereas others are solitary. Most bees nest in cavities, while some have exposed nests. The best-known cavity nests are those of honeybees – they live naturally in holes in trees and in the ground,

TEXT Dr Connal Eardley

PART THREE


A cuckoo bee in the leaf cutter family visiting a flower for nectar. Photograph at Ujubee.com

and are kept by beekeepers in hives. Stingless bees inhabit cavities similar to those of honeybees, but smaller, and they don’t dig their own cavities. All other cavity nests are tunnels. Some bore their own tunnels (miner and carpenter bees), while others use existing insect burrows, including those of other bees. They mostly raise their larvae in cells within their nests. Exposed nests are usually made of mud (daubers), resin (resin bees) or plant fibre combed to look like cotton wool (carder bees). Daubers, resin bees and carders have either exposed or cavity nests. Exposed nests of dauber and resin bees are spherical, comprising several oval cells packed closely together. The whole nest, after all the cells have been constructed and provisioned, is rounded off into a ball with mud and/or resin. Carder bees simply have a ball of ‘cotton wool’ in which cells are constructed. Among the cavity nesters, honeybees make cells out of wax (honey comb). They use similar cells to store pollen and honey (made from nectar) that they feed to their larvae. Stingless bees have larval cells and much larger pots, also made from a waxy material, for storing honey and pollen. Only honey and stingless bees store food for their larvae outside brood cells. Other pollen- and nectar-collecting bees provision a brood cell and lay an egg in each cell. The materials used to make brood cells are reflected in their names: sand or mud (masons), resin (resin bees), wood shavings (carpenters), leaf or petal (leaf cutters), cellophane secretions (hyaline and plaster bees) or cottony fibre (carders). Some bees do not collect pollen, namely males and parasitic bees. They are therefore not important pollinators. Most parasitic bees are cuckoos, meaning they lay their eggs in other bees’ nests. The parasite kills the host’s larva and feeds on its provisions. Social parasites replace, or coexist with, queens of other social species. The host species’ workers raise the parasites larvae. Parasitic bees therefore do not construct nests.

A cuckoo bee in the banded miner bee family drinking. Photograph by P. Webb

Stingless bees inside their nest with honey pots. Photograph by D. Martins

Why are there so many female bees? In bees, fertilised eggs develop into females and unfertilised eggs develop into males (therefore females have twice as many chromosomes as males). After mating, females store the sperm in a spermatheca and are able to control which egg cells are fertilised, thus they can determine whether they lay female or male eggs. This enables social bees, including honeybees, to have a hive full of female workers and only a few males – when needed. Dr C. Eardley is from the Agricultural Research Council, Plant Protection Research Institute, and has worked on the taxonomy of African bees and the conservation of their biodiversity for 40 years. His email address is eardleyc@arc.agric.za. www.thegardener.co.za I 59


DESIGN DIY

WHAT YOU NEED

This is the seventh in our Working with Wood series presented by Greg de Villiers. Throughout the series we will introduce you to some amazing new tools on the market that take the ‘work’ out of woodwork.

Cutting list CCA-treated pine cut to the following dimensions: 8 x 1700mm x 25mm x 76mm 8 x 1400mm x 25mm x 76mm 8 x 555mm x 25mm x 76mm 14 x 400mm x 25mm x 76mm 2 x 550mm x 25mm x 76mm 3 x 555mm x 38mm x 38mm battens 6 x 262mm x 38mm x 38mm battens 50mm cut screws

Tools

300mm 700mm

1300mm

Make a log cabin

Festool jigsaw, Triton drill and driver, Festool track saw, Festool shop vacuum, Bessey K Body parallel clamps, combination square, tape measure, pencil

Keep your braai wood dry and close at hand. 25mm


2

What you do

1

2a

Clamp the eight 1700mm slats together and join them using the three 555mm battens. Centre the battens so that the slats extend 25mm past the end of the battens on each side, to accommodate the side panels. Attach the first batten flush with the base, the second 700mm from the base and the third 1300mm from the base. You have now made the back panel. Cut all your timber to size with the Festool track saw.

3

Mark a point 300mm down from the top of the back panel on both the left and right side. Draw lines from both points to the centre of the top of the panel.

4 Use the jigsaw to cut along the lines to form the pitch of the roof.

5 Clamp four of the 1400mm slats together to make a side panel. Join the slats using three of the 262mm battens, at the same measurements as the battens on the back panel (flush with the base, 700mm and 1300mm from the base). Make sure to keep the battens flush on one side of the panel, leaving a 40mm gap on the other side to accommodate the batten on the back panel. Repeat step 4 to create the other side panel, but be sure to leave the 40mm gap on the opposite side to accommodate the back panel battens.

6

Attach the side panels to the back panel, lining up the battens on the inside of the unit and screwing through the back panel into the side panels.

It’s easy to enhance your lifestyle with trendsetting DIYs.


7 Screw four 555mm lengths to the top of the cleats at the base of the panels. Screw the other four to the top of the cleats at the top.

m 76 m

8 You need to cut the two 550mm slats at an angle, so that they match the pitch of the back panel. Instead of measuring an angle, the easiest way to do this is by measuring 76mm from the end of the planks and making a mark. On the face of the plank, draw an angled line from this mark to the opposite corner. Cut along this line with a jigsaw. Screw these two planks to the front of the unit to form the pitch.

9

Fix seven of the 400mm slats to each side of the pitch to form the roof.

WIN with Working with Wood Vermont Sales is giving away a Triton SuperJaws Portable Clamping System This system has a powerful 1000kg clamping force allowing as much or as little pressure as required. It is a standalone system that enables you to work in 360 degrees and has foot-operated clamping to free up your hands for full control. The tripod base makes it stable on any surface and it folds down for easy storage. Other features include urethane jaw facings for a protective, slip-resistant grip; lock and release switch for fast release of the jaws; reversible sliding jaws for extra wide (956mm) clamping; and it is made from robust powder-coated steel to last. www.vermontsales.co.za www.facebook.com/TheGardenerMag To enter the competition and stand a chance to win this great prize, please go to our Facebook pages and like and share the competition post, and tag @VermontSales, @triton_za, @kreg_za, @festool_za and @torkcraft_za on Instagram. Competition ends 27 November 2017. Terms and conditions apply.


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CHECKLIST

2

1 PETIT, BUT HUGE FLOWER POWER Dwarf Inca lilies are magnificent for the garden and suitable to grow in containers too, as they reach a height of only 30 – 35cm. They flower profusely from spring to autumn and can be found in a wide range of bright colours. These shorties can be picked as long-lasting cut flowers, just like their taller family members. Growth in a nutshell z Good for sun or light shade. z Provide loam soil enriched with compost. z Water and feed regularly in the summer months with fertiliser for flower production.

4

QUEEN HYDRANGEA

Brighten up shady areas with glorious hydrangeas, which will now be available in flower. Colour in between them with impatiens, begonias and browallias. Remember: Hydrangeas love dappled shade, rich, loamy soil and lots of water. If you want to grow them in pots, place them on the southern side of the house for early morning sun and afternoon shade. They need to be fed monthly from August to March with plant food rich in potassium.

SUPERFOOD TREE The moringa tree (Moringa oleifera), also known as the miracle tree, drumstick tree, horseradish tree or radish tree, is a very fastgrowing deciduous tree that is packed with an almost unbelievable number of health benefits. Every part of this tree, including the leaves, flowers, seedpods, seeds, roots and bark, is edible. Moringa has been used for medicinal purposes for at least the last 4000 years. These trees are extremely drought resistant and suitable for very hot tropical and subtropical climates. Enquire at your local nursery for stock and more information.

November in your garden Here is a quick checklist to remind you what to do in the garden in November.

BEDDING BESTIES FOR HOT MONTHS

If you’re looking for lovely summer colour to plant now, go for vincas (Catharanthus roseus). Intensive breeding has resulted in compact, bushy plants with a long flowering period, in a colour range of pinks, reds, white and apricot, as well as the popular varieties such as ‘Jams ’n Jellies’ with nearly black flowers and ‘American Pie Mix’ with an interesting mix of white and berry coloured blooms.

3

Marigold

Vincas need z Full sun all day. z Very well-drained soil. z Correct spacing – plant them 20cm apart to allow for good air circulation, which will prevent stem or root rot. z Medium to low water requirements once established. Good colour companions for vincas are salvias, marigolds, verbenas, angelonias and zinnias. ‘American Pie Mix’

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5

7

FIND GOOD HEALTH IN FENNEL Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare) hails from the Mediterranean region, where it grows naturally along the coast and dry rocky outcrops. It’s a very attractive herbal plant that needs little more than lots of sun and ordinary garden soil. A cousin known as bronze fennel (Foeniculum vulgare ‘Rubrum Purpureum’) is an even prettier foliage plant, often grown amongst other perennials in a flower border. Apart from its natural good looks, fennel is prized for its culinary and medicinal values. The ferny leaves and copious seed produced in umbels of dainty yellow flowerheads are very aromatic, lending a subtle anise flavour to fish, chicken and veggie dishes, and they can also be used to bath sore eyes as well as to sooth indigestion and nausea. Fennel flowers are irresistible to butterflies and can also be used to lure aphids away from other susceptible plants. In the flower garden they are perfect companions for sun-lovers like dahlias, salvias, zinnias, cosmos and gauras.

8

Erica

z

z

6

PERFECT PRUNING

Fynbos pants like buchus, leucospermums, ericas and proteas can be pruned after flowering. Also prune confetti bushes quite hard. Stop lavenders like Lavandula stoechas from becoming woody by pruning them just after a flowering spell – this will keep them healthy, and extend their lifespans. Prune about two thirds of the growth away, but never into old wood.

It’s not uncommon for 25 – 40% of lawn to be covered in partial or deep shade – not ideal situations for sun-loving lawns! If shade is extreme, try to eliminate some of it by trimming low and overhanging branches of trees, or replace the lawn with shadeloving groundcovers. The other option is to use grass mixtures/blends that are capable of withstanding shade by over-seeding the existing lawn with it.

9

Buddleja ‘Buzz’

FOOD FOR THE WILD ONES Keep planting for birds and butterflies. Wild dagga, September bush, Pentas lanceolata and the wonderful Buddleja ‘Buzz’ range of dwarf butterfly bushes are highly recommended to make your garden come alive!

RENOVATE LAWN IN THE SHADE

Pentas lanceolata

EAT YOUR FLOWERS

Nothing makes a summer salad look prettier than garden flowers scattered over it, and it is high fashion too! So add some begonias, daylilies, hibiscus, borage and pineapple sage to your garden for culinary use. www.thegardener.co.za I 65



Open Gardens November EASTERN CAPE

the neat and meticulous with a friendly and welcoming English village atmosphere. It provides a feast of small gardens that spill out onto the pavements or are bordered with low palisade fences that offer a full view of plants, grasses, creepers, shrubs, hanging baskets, chimes, benches and garden ornaments. Time: 10:00 – 17:00 Tickets: R50 Enquiries: Pam 083 496 4746

KWAZULU-NATAL

11 – 12 November Gardens of East London The Pam Golding Properties Gardens of East London Event will be held on from 10am – 5 pm in aid of various East London Charities. Tickets are available at the Pam Golding offices or all participating charities. Enquiries: 082 963 2202

GAUTENG Until December 2017 STIHL Open Gardens The STIHL Open Gardens programme for 2017 includes Pietermaritzburg, Hilton and the Midlands region as well as the Upper Highway and East Griqualand. There are plenty of gardens to enjoy. See the details for the November gardens on www.thegardener.co.za.

Gardens of the Golden City Spring Gardens 2017 Gardens of the Golden City is now in its 21st year of sourcing and displaying private gardens to the ever-growing numbers of avid garden visitors on behalf of various charities. For updated information visit www. gardensofthegoldencity.co.za. 4 – 5 November 2017 Quondam Village, 79 Boeing Road East, Bedfordview Hidden behind high walls, Quondam Village is a pleasant surprise combining

Experience the gardens of the KZN Midlands Until December 2017 Harcourts welcomes you to a bumper Open Garden Season, ranging from the blossoms of spring to the summer gardens of December. Tickets are available at R50 from each garden, and this will enable you to visit all the Harcourts Open Gardens except for Benvie and Endebeni Forest, where tickets cost R50 per person. See www. thegardener.co.za for details of the gardens.

3 – 5 November 2017 Encounter East Griqualand Country and Garden Festival This year the Festival, which takes place in and around Kokstad, Swartberg and Cedarville, KwaZulu-Natal, is proud to present nine beautiful, unique and diverse gardens. In addition to the gardens, the festival includes markets, agricultural events, good food, art, crafts, music and talks on a variety of subjects. Tickets: R80, available at all the gardens. Enquiries: Dr Merida Roets, 083 630 7787, merida@scientificroets.com, www.encountereg.co.za www.thegardener.co.za I 67


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11 November 2017 Garden Route Open Gardens Various open gardens will be available for viewing at the annual Garden Route Open Gardens. Tickets: R50, entitling visitors entry into all the gardens. Tickets will be sold at BADISA, 60 Victoria Street, George. Enquiries: Jill de Ponte, jilldeponte@gmail.com

11 November 2017 Plett Open Garden Day While Plett is not a large town, it has a remarkable concentration of fine gardens and can showcase a good balance of different gardens every year. Plett is blessed with an abundance of beautiful views, and most featured gardens have the advantage of being viewed against the backdrop of mountains, ocean and lovely natural vegetation. Enquiries: Marsja Hall-Green 044 533 4578, 073 645 9476, marsjahg@netactive.co.za

Email subs@thegardener.co.za with your details.

Subscribe online at www.thegardener.co.za.

11 November 2017 Acara Open Gardens Acara is a beautiful English country garden with breathtaking views of the magnificent Helderberg Mountains and vineyards. It’s set in a valley with willow trees, rose gardens, rolling lawns, themed areas and even a small veggie patch. Tea and coffee with muffins will be served and plants will be on sale. Venue: Off R44, Winery Road Enquiries: 084 958 5074, info@acara.co.za, www.acara.co.za

See www.thegardener.co.za for more details on the gardens featured in November.


NOVEMBER EVENTS WESTERN CAPE Saturday 18 Creative container competition with the Durbanville Garden Club Durbanville Library, Oxford Street, Durbanville Prizes worth R6000! Free entry. Enquiries: www.durbanvillegardenclub.co.za

21 November – 3 December Cape Gift Market Sea Point Civic Centre Mondays to Fridays from 09:00 – 19:00 Saturday and Sunday from 09:00 – 17:00 Enquiries: 082 411 3981, geskenkemark@gmail.com

Saturday 11 and Sunday 12 Stellenberg Gardens Open Days In aid of the St. Joseph’s Home for Chronically Ill Children 30 Oak Avenue, Kenilworth 09:30 – 17:30 Entrance: R50, cildren under 12 free. Teas R30. The Stellenberg Nursery will be open. Enquiries: 021 762 7733, 083 300 1196, www.stellenberggardens.co.za

GAUTENG Wednesday 22 Talk: Lightning and Research Findings, by Estelle Trengrove The Floreum, Johannesburg Botanical Gardens, Olifants Road, Emmarentia Entrance: Members R20, Visitors R30, including refreshments. Enquiries: 082 951 1432


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TRIM THE NOISE NOT THE POWER

The Husqvarna 115iL is a light-weight, comfortable and easy-to-use battery trimmer for trimming lawn edges or small areas of longer grass. Its powerful, low-vibration, brushless motor, with no direct emissions, is quiet enough for use in residential areas without disturbing your family or neighbours. The intuitive keypad offers safe, convenient starting and stopping, the telescopic shaft is adjustable for personal fit, and the comfortable handle is also adjustable, adding up to an efficient, effective machine that is easy to store, transport and use. www.husqvarna.co.za

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SOMETHING FOR THE LADIES

The Lasher Tools Ladies Range features tools made with particular attention to aesthetics, but with the same heavy-duty effectiveness of all Lasher Tools. The range of tools is made lighter with smaller handles so that they are easier to use for finer work. The tools are powder coated and epoxy finished. Although called the Ladies Range, it is not just limited to women, but is suitable for use in smaller spaces such as townhouses. The range comprises a spade and digging fork. www.lasher.co.za 70 I www.thegardener.co.za

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BATTERY POWER

Stihl’s innovative new lithium-ion cordless range is the complete gardening package. The FSA 45 trimmer, HSA 45 hedge trimmer and BGA 45 blower all feature a powerful integrated 18V battery, great performance and enough run-time to take care of jobs around the house on a single charge. Developed especially for working in small gardens, the range is quiet, lightweight and easier than ever to operate. The Stihl lithium-ion range is now on promotion at Stihl dealers nationwide. www.stihl.co.za

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NEW SPRAYERS

KLB Engineering, known for their range of water pumps, have brought out new pressure sprayers for gardening. The 2-litre version has a mix level indicator and an extra nozzle for mist. The 5-litre version also has a fully-adjustable nozzle and trigger, an automatic pressure-release valve and a comfortable handle. Look out for the Red Rhino branding in your local retailer. www.klbengineering.com


Open Gardens

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e are very proud to bring you Open Gardens magazine, which will give you a guide to the best of the best private gardens in the country and time to plan your trips to see them! If you can’t find the magazine on the shelves, it’s also available online at www.thegardener.co.za

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STOEP STORY

On the road again... Months (or sometimes years) will go past without any need for my husband and I to travel further than about 60km from home. But as soon as we reach the level of complacency that even driving to buy milk from the local cafe seems like a ‘trek’ across the land, life changes and we are on the road again...

A

lifelong friend of ours recently passed away unexpectedly. Although we hadn’t seen her or her bereaved husband for many years, we remembered the good times we spent together and the bond that existed between us. We unanimously agreed to drive from Onrusrivier to Port Elizabeth to attend her memorial service, and seeing that it was an unexpected chance to take to the road again, we decided to make a little holiday of it. We kicked the tyres of the old Chevy, filled up her fuel tank, locked the house, said goodbye to the neighbours and took off on the N2 just after sunrise. When I phoned the eldest kid to tell her that we were leaving the last outpost, she was extremely shocked that we had not pre-booked any accommodation (so that she could check if we actually reached it) and had no clearly planned route to our destination. I told her not to worry, as in our heyday her Dad and I used to drive from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth, via the Garden Route, in just a weekend! The kid was shocked and said, “Ma, this isn’t a honeymoon! You’re going to a funeral and should be better organised.” I replied, “Ag, relax! What can go wrong?” She said, “Who’s driving?” I said, “Your Dad!” All went fine at first, as I was busy feeding little titbits to the husband to keep his blood sugar level. But after a while I heard the car’s tyres and engine humming a different tune. I heard this through the open window, since the darn car’s air conditioner had packed up and we had begun to feel the heat. The old man’s foot was heavy on the pedal and from where I was sitting it looked like he was going at about 140km per hour! I told him, “Slow down! We don’t need any more memorial services!” He said, “Anna, it’s simply a question of parallax. You’re looking at the speedometer from an angle and it is confusing you. We’re just a tad over the normal speed limit, and we need to burn this old car’s carburettor clean! So shut up and buckle up!” 72 I www.thegardener.co.za

I saw the yellow canola fields of the Overberg and the flowering ericas on the Garden Route passing me by in a blur. By the time we reached Plettenberg Bay (where I fervently had hoped we would overnight to catch our breath), I was ignored when I remarked that I really needed a bathroom stop. We reached the city of Port Elizabeth (Mandela Bay) late afternoon. As we were driving into peak hour traffic through the city (which we were warned not to do!), I asked my driver if he actually knew where the beachfront was, and where we should start looking for a bed for the night. He reminded me with annoyance that he often used to work in PE when he was overseeing the building of a printing press, and that he knows his way around. Well, we ended up in the ‘sticks’ of a fast-decaying city. When I asked him if he at least knew in which direction the ocean was, I saw a blank look on his face. We drove through narrow streets bordered by empty factories. We stopped at

The old man’s foot was heavy on the pedal and from where I was sitting it looked like he was going at about 140km per hour! a busy taxi rank to have a fight because I had apparently refused to buy a new GPS. And then, as if struck by a bolt of lightning, he suddenly said, “Sh@t! I’ve got Google maps on my cellphone. Sorry old dear, I forgot.” “So what,” I said, “What are you going to Google?” He said, “When I came to PE for work I always stayed in a ‘lodge hotel’ that was opposite the beach in Summer Strand. I’m going to Google ‘lodge’, and if it works this phone will lead us to a bed!” He did, and the phone guided us right to a disabled parking spot at a lodge’s front

By Anna Celliers

door. I got out to enquire about available accommodation and was promptly told that they were booked to the rafters for the night. As I was walking out of the foyer, totally dejected, to go and spread the bad news to my old man (who by now had got out of the car and was leaning heavily on his walking stick), the young receptionist came running out to tell me that they actually had a room available for disabled folks, if we should be interested. I ripped the walking stick out of the old man’s hands, waved it in the air and shouted, “We’ll take it!” After throwing the luggage down, there was another unanimous decision that we should visit the establishment’s ladies bar without further ado, to have a soothing drink. As we walked in we spotted a greyhaired bartender having a little snooze, his head resting on his chest. He looked up when he sensed movement, stared straight into my husband’s eyes and said, “Good evening, Jan. Will it be the usual?” My husband answered with a tear in his eye and a crack in his voice, “Good evening Templeton. It has been more than twenty years since we last saw each other. And yes, I will have the usual.” We found the funeral home with the help of two cellphones, attended the short memorial service, felt awkward and in the way, and got into the car again. I was asked which way we should drive home, and said very firmly that it would be a slow and peaceful trip via Route 62. I also insisted on ‘pit stops’ to answer the calls of nature, and more stops to identify the plants growing along the road. I added that if he didn’t agree, I would call a 46-year long marriage quits... I was taken slowly along magnificent mountain passes, held a branch of Nymania capensis (klapperbos) in my hands, treated to a glass of wine at Ronnie’s Sex Shop, and booked into the beautiful and quirky Karoo Art Hotel in Barrydale for the night. It took two days to get home again...




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