Issue: 6
AD ASTRA
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| A R M A N D D E B R I G N A C . C O M |
Welcome to Lifestyle Lifestyle began in 2011 as a members-only magazine for Ad Astra’s elite travel clients, but rapidly grew in popularity due to its unique style and content mix. Given its popularity, the circulation was extended to include exclusive hotels, airport lounges, private jets and Harley Street clinics, to name but a few. Consequently, the publisher decided it should become a stand-alone publication and be presented to a wider audience. The transformation is now complete and I would like to welcome you to this edition of the revised Lifestyle magazine. An exceptionally talented and international team of creative and enthusiastic people has been responsible for this transformation. They have not lost sight of Lifestyle’s heritage, but have brought exciting new content, delivered in a fresh style. This issue has a nostalgic theme to mark the transition from the old to the new. The raison d’être of Lifestyle is to transport you into a chic world, where we will introduce you to the finest, yet often lesser known, brands that represent style, quality and exceptional craft. To that end, we dedicate ourselves to a range of topics including: yachts, fashion, private jets, interior design, prestige cars, exclusive events and destinations. Lifestyle is now a quarterly periodical, styled to take pride of place on your coffee table. The magazine is available only through subscription and selective placement in exclusive venues. Should you prefer to read Lifestyle on a mobile device, it is also available as a digital download. We are active on social media too so you can stay in touch on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Google+ and LinkedIn. I am delighted to present the new Lifestyle to you, representing a wonderful journey for our team throughout the production of this edition. I hope you enjoy the read as much as we enjoy producing it.
Giselle Editor
Publisher
Editor
Deputy Editor and Production Manager
Creative Designer
Peter Coyle
Giselle Whiteaker
Amélie Arras
Sebastian Hartland
Contributors Dave Coyle, Demelza Craven, Giverny Bendall, Rupa Ganatra, Sabine Donnai, Susan Wade-Weeks, Tom Shaxson , Vicky Edgson
For a complete listing of brands featured in this edition, please turn to our Listing on page 64. For more content, visit www.adastra-lifestyle.com. For comments, questions or enquiries, please email us at Lifestyle@adastrauk.com. Cover Image courtesy of Bellerby Globes For editorial and advertising inquiries, please contact: editorial@adastrauk.com advertising@adastrauk.com +44 2032890460
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F I N E E N G L I S H H AT S AND HEADPIECES
By appointment T: + + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 7 2 5 5 1 2 9 8 3 W W W. V I V I E N S H E R I F F. C O . U K
HARRODS FORTNUM & MASON FENWICK BOND STREET
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AD
Contents adastra-lifestyle.com
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07 Jeepers! From
Utility to Essential Looking at the transformation of a utility vehicle into a ubiquitous must-have for townies and countrydwellers alike.
12 Swashbuckling,
Sou’westers and Salty Sea Dogs Water has the ability to inspire the inner explorer in all of us. So hoist the main sail and scale the rigging, as we explore the majesty of sailing around the world.
18 An Aviation Icon Remembering the noble spitfire; a plane with a reputation as great as the role it played in the Second World War. Belt up and strap in for a flight down memory lane.
23 High-flying Fashion Many dream of flying, but only a few actually get there. Those that do become icons and their associated style has attracted the attention of fashion designers.
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26 Hat Magic In contemporary society, women have a bee in their bonnet – they would often rather eat their hat than wear it. It takes courage to add a hat, but why?
29 Vintage Fashion What is vintage? We look back with nostalgia on this era of beauty icons, elegance and glamour.
31 A Prescription to Ski It is easy to imagine a situation where you are advised to have a week in a spa for the sake of your health, but the astute clinician may instead recommend you take a ski holiday.
36 Life-long Learning Throughout this life, there’s much to learn. Dave Coyle recounts his launch into the world of youth expeditions.
40 The Secret The word is out. Speakeasies are where it is at. And the word on everyone’s lips? “Shhh…It’s a secret.”
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45 On the Trail: Sardinia to Monaco
The Sardinia to Monaco journey is an enchanting way to spend 10 days aboard a yacht, with promises of striking sunsets, divine food and dynamic nightspots.
51 The Shabby-Chic Décor Revolution
Timeless and elegant are the catchwords for décor within the shabby-chic design style. Think cosy countryside cottages, French farmhouses and vintage furnishings.
58 Stepping Back in Time Vintage is all around us. It’s not surprising that vintage fairs are popping up across the globe. Here’s what to expect when you look into the past.
61 Accessing the Open Seas
The Jubilee Sailing Trust operates two special tall ships, which enable people with sensory impairments and physical disabilities to sail on equal terms with their more able counterparts.
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Up Next 07 Utility vehicles move into the mainstream 12 The open sea calls 18 Remembering the iconic Spitfire
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Jeepers!
From Utility to Essential
Lifestyle looks at the transformation of a utility vehicle into a ubiquitous must-have for townies and country-dwellers alike.
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B
umping along across the battlefields of the Second World War, with gunfire and explosions all around, could the drivers of the original 4x4 imagine how their steed would have developed and how successors would use them today? The Willys GP was the first mass produced four-wheel drive and was the stalwart vehicle for the US armed forces during the Second World War. As a quick aside, it is interesting how some brands or terms are created. Typically, with military personnel, abbreviation is rife and soon the two syllables of GP turned into a single syllable jeep.
The GP was a robust and highly capable means of transport across unmade and rough terrain. It is widely recognised as the origin of the species known colloquially as the 4x4 or sports utility vehicle (SUV). The military is probably the most demanding testbed for any vehicle and the Land Rover is a great example of this. Perhaps a more extreme and less practical example is the American HMMWV or Humvee, famously driven by Arnold Schwarzenegger. At 4.5 metres long, over 2 metres wide and weighing in at nearly 6 tonnes, it is not ideal for the school run. However, the spirit lives on, as General Motors has redesigned it to be the more practical and refined Hummer. 8
Today’s 4x4s embrace technology to not only enhance their capabilities and appeal, but also practicality and safety. When driving any off-road vehicle, confidence in its capability is essential. This was clear at the Land Rover Experience Centre in Ashford, Kent, where driving up a steep incline out of a chalk quarry in the rain the instructor said: “When you reach the top turn left.” Simple I thought. Then he added, “You will only be able to see the sky, so you will have to have faith.” Another example of trust is with the descent control. Tipping over the precipice of the same quarry, the Discovery tilted forward and we were supported by the seat belts rather than the seat backs. “Don’t touch the brakes, just let the vehicle deal with it,” the instructor insisted. Easier said than done, when it feels as though the vehicle is about to career downhill out of control, but the reality is quite the opposite. There is slight juddering as the brakes are applied intermittently to slow the descent, but it’s important to keep the wheels moving to avoid sliding. Perhaps it is this feeling of confidence in capability and safety that has caused the rise in popularity of these vehicles, or is it simply a lifestyle choice? They certainly have a style appeal and are extremely practical, but does the average owner need the off-road capability? The answer is yes, but only on rare occasions, and the question is whether it warrants the associated compromises. Whatever the reason, the majority of car manufacturers have at least one in their range and even luxury and sports-car manufacturers are jumping on the band-wagon.
Today’s 4x4s embrace technology
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So does a luxury 4x4 work as an everyday car during the week and an all-terrain adventurer on the weekend? Typically, the answer is both yes and no. One of our Directors uses his Land Rover Discovery to travel around the country meeting clients. He claims it is a comfortable motorway cruiser, taking the strain from the long distances he covers. However, in his free time he is a search and rescue volunteer and the vehicle instantly converts into a mobile operations control centre, equipped for a variety of terrains and stocked with the supplies and paraphernalia required. On the other hand, we enjoyed an extremely comfortable and quick, cruise to a pheasant shoot in Suffolk in the Hybrid Porsche Cayenne. From an image perspective, it fitted perfectly and it had the practicality to fit four people with Purdeys, shooting sticks and Barbour coats, a couple of dogs and space left over for a brace or two of birds. It also provided
a comfortable perch to share the contents of the ubiquitous hip flasks. However, with its low profile tyres more suited to its older sister the 911, it was less capable on the layer of slimy mud that had formed during the persistent drizzle. At the end of the day it was hosed down and was ready for the road again. Although the return journey was equally as comfortable as the outbound, the helicopter option is preferable for avoiding traffic.
The newest luxury car manufacturer to enter the SUV market is Bentley with its Bentayga. We looked at the prototype at the Goodwood Festival of Speed and although it looked a little out of place, it would take the award for practical opulence, especially when attending a country event. The tailgate drops down to become a comfortable seat, with high-tech picnic facilities in the side walls. Audi is looking to the future, too with its e-tron Quattro, which has been designed from the ground up as an all-electric car. Unimaginable in 1940, when its original ancestor, the Jeep, took to the battlefields. Motoring has certainly come a long way.
“Don’t touch the brakes, just let the vehicle deal with it.”
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Swashbuckling, Sou’westers and
Salty Sea Dogs 12
71% of the Earth’s surface is water. It is the globe’s ultimate means of transportation and has the ability to inspire the inner explorer in all of us. So hoist the main sail and scale the rigging, as we explore the majesty of sailing around the world.
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he great expanse of azure and the unending horizon; a sky with no light pollution –so clear that you don’t just see stars, you see galaxies; the sound of waves upon a hull; the vast stretch between you and land, on an ever-changing surface. You are at the resolve of the elements, to make your will so at the tug of a rope or the lifting of a sail, as long as nature agrees. You are sailing. There is something about the sailing yacht that brings out the explorer in all of us. Somewhere, deep in the recesses of our minds, are childhood memories of Long John Silver, Captain Hook and The Rime of Ancient Mariner. There is a magic to sailing that brings us straight back to those eponymous characters, provoking a sou’wester-
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craving for salty air and wind-bitten features. The humble sailing yacht upholds romanticism. It is the stage of swashbuckling and plank-walking, a deck upon which to recline beneath the heat of a rich Mediterranean sun, or a haven in which to batten down the hatches and ride out the storm. It is more than a mode of transportation, it is a home in an evolving location of your choice. The opportunity to sail around the world is often considered to be a once-in-a-lifetime opening, but in reality there is a huge array of prospects for those who are willing to take up the oars of destiny and the tiller of exploration. Take, for instance, the Clipper Round the World Race. This sailing race is summed up by its organisers as “…one of the biggest challenges of the natural world and
an endurance test like no other,” with no nautical knowledge necessary. It is a grueling 40,000 nautical mile race around the world on a 70-foot ocean racing yacht. All that is asked of participants is a good level of fitness, an age over 18 and a thirst for adventure into the unknown. What is particularly ground-breaking about this competition is that it is divided into eight legs and 16 individual races, offering participants the unique chance to complete the entire marathon or just certain legs. This means that the novice deckhand can choose their run. This is the only race internationally where organisers supply a fleet of identical yachts, all manned by a fully qualified skipper – all they need is a game crew. For some, sailing around the world in a yacht could never be about a race. For those who come to sea to leave the competitions of dry land behind, there are other options, such as the company Classic Sailing: A passion for Sailing Holidays on Tall Ships and Wooden Boats. Classic Sailing offers the chance to sail on vessels of bygone eras. If feeling like a pirate is what you’re after, this is the right place. You become the crew of barques, brigs, schooners, historic cargo ships, pilot cutters, luggers,
sailing trawlers, privateers and fine rowing boats. If you’re adventuring alone, you won’t be for long and you will be trained from the moment you step onboard. This is your chance to climb the rigging and scrub the deck. While there are many companies offering round-the-world yacht experiences, nothing could be more authentic than doing it yourself. Take for instance Liz Clark, lady of legend and owner of the ever popular blog Swell Voyage. She experienced the ultimate in fate when working at a bar. Her university lecturer, friend and mentor, Barry Schuyler, suggested she use his boat and live out her aspiration of sailing around the world. The only condition was that she documented her travels so that he could live those adventures through her. She seized the opportunity and has since sailed 25,000 nautical miles on her Cal 40 Sailboat. The 34-year-old Californian has dedicated her life to adventure, focusing on sustainable living and learning from new and exotic cultures. Her blog is an inspiration to anyone who wants to change their direction on the compass of life. Sailing around-the-world is the stuff that dreams are made of. And while
so many consign themselves to the humdrum of ordinary life, there are opportunities waiting. Whether it’s an around the world yacht race or manning the deck of a classic privateer vessel, whether you’re lucky enough to have a sailing boat offered to you or you can flash the cash to buy your own, there is a world of adventure awaiting those seafarers ready to seize it. Be seduced by the whisper of salt air or bellowed into submission by the roar of it, find the place where the albatross soars and the fish are big enough to swallow a
There is something about the sailing yacht that brings out the explorer in all of us
man whole. The destination isn’t clear because you’re just not close enough yet, but drift a little further and little by little, the vast expanse ahead will come into view. In the words of Mark Twain,
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
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There’s more to life than being a passenger Amelia Earhart 16
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An Aviation Icon
Lifestyle Magazine remembers the noble spitfire, a plane with a reputation as great as the role it played in the Second World War: the exhilaration, the power, the energy. Belt up and strap in for a flight down memory lane. “When everything seems to be going against you, remember that the airplane takes off against the wind, not with it.” There could be no more apt words when regarding the noble spitfire than those of Henry Ford. The plane is nothing short of enigmatic; a symbol of Britain’s most triumphant hour, taking off not just against the wind, but against the enemy. The Spitfire was Ford’s metaphor in practice.
The plane took its name from the old English word spitfire that denoted a person of strong or fiery character. The aircraft was exactly that; a physical representation of the strength and fire of the allies. In name alone it warned that if they were forced to spit fire, they would. The Spitfire is one of the few planes to achieve legendary status. Manufactured in the most prodigious numbers of any British warfare aircraft before or since, it was the only fighter aircraft to be in continual construction throughout the war. At the final count, a staggering 20,341 Spitfires were produced in the name of the war effort and production of the machine continued for the next 12 years, such was the level of its prestige. In total there were 22 variations of the Spitfire, perhaps the most marked being that of the naval Seafire. If there was a will, there was a Spitfire. Owen Thetford, author of Aircraft of the RAF since 1918, described the Spitfire as handling like a thoroughbred. It is almost
incomprehensible that a craft of 2,400 kilogrammes should launch from the ground into the sky. Add to that its capability of hitting a top speed of 582 kilometres per hour, with a dive speed far exceeding that, and this plane is nothing short of remarkable. It reached a height of 7,000 metres in just over 9 minutes, but it’s not just the staggering figures that spring to mind at the sight of a Spitfire in flight. The sheer majesty of this aeroplane is what most remember – the unmistakable shape, those characteristic target markings and the camouflage paint that blends seamlessly into the patchwork of the fields it flies above. Visually, the Spitfire is an aviation icon. The Battle of Britain played a vital role in the Spitfire’s dominance as an important emblem of Great Britain. With the allies outnumbered, their 640 planes battling against Germany’s fleet of 2,600, Herman Goering was confident of a humiliating defeat for Britain. He underestimated the Spitfire. With a powerful combination of Hurricanes and Spitfires, a staggering 1,887 German planes 18
“
Give me a squadron of Spitfires.
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”
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were downed. The RAF crushed the Luftwaffe, cementing the Spitfire’s reputation as an irreplaceable form of aviation combat craft. Most famously, Goering met senior German officers during the Battle of Britain and asked if there was anything he could do to improve the Luftwaffe’s performance. He was met with a reply from Adolf Galland, Germany’s leading fighter pilot of the Second World War, who was quick to answer: “Give me a squadron of Spitfires.” The Spitfire does not owe its reputation to military success alone. Post-war film has had much to do with the prestige of the plane. Films such as Reach for the Sky, The Malta Story and Battle of Britain helped to render the Spitfire an iconic emblem of British triumph. This was a title well-deserved, when during the filming of Battle of Britain the planes were so well camouflaged that they couldn’t be seen by the cameras. The crew resorted to filming against clouds so that the aircraft could be captured on film. The feisty Spitfire has captured the imagination for generations. John Magee penned On High, his famous sonnet, from the seat of a Spitfire, 30,000 feet above the rest of the world. The wonder in his opening line “Oh! I have slipped the surly bonds of Earth,” conjures the awe in climbing through the air in such a craft. He
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speaks of how he “wheeled and soared and swung” remarking on the great power of the vehicle with: “I’ve chased the shouting wind along”. The concept of chasing the “wind” goes some way to explaining the sheer capacity of these compelling aeroplanes. His closing lines sum up the magnificence of this majestic craft: “And, while with silent lifting mind I’ve trod, The high, untrespassed sanctity of space. Put out my hand and touched the face of God.” There could be no greater testament to the feeling of Spitfire flight. It is perhaps the Spitfire’s relationship with the common people that makes it infamous. During World War II, the population of Britain was encouraged to donate money towards the manufacture of Spitfires, creating an affinity with the people, who placed so much hope upon the promise of the plane. Children took hammers to their piggy banks with the excitement of aiding the war effort. Even today, the relationship with the aircraft is reinforced with fly-bys on special occasions and the name is still used in advertising due to the symbolism it carries. The Spitfire is not just visually famous, but audibly so too. Its engine is a Rolls Royce Merlin and to the ear of many it makes the sweetest of music, a distinctive sound that is all in the pistons. As sophisticated
The sheer majesty of this aeroplane is what most remember
as its manufacturers, there is an appeal in the music of the magical engine that powered the aircraft to victory on countless occasions. The Spitfire is shot back into public consciousness time and time again with the anniversaries of World War II battles and other events, giving clues as to why the Spitfire remains so iconic. World War II was a devastating event on a global scale. Nobody wants to forget the sacrifices made, the extreme loss of life, the devastation of cities and towns and villages. Equally, nobody wants to forget the unexpected positives: how communities pull together in times of adversity, how friends and family are reunited against the odds and how a special aeroplane saved countless lives by aiding to end a conflict that 70 years later is still as relevant as it was is its day. Photographs taken by MIKE CALDWELL
Up Next 23 What pilots are wearing 26 Hats as a fashion statement 29 Assembling the vintage look 31 Skiing as the ultimate form of relaxation
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H i g h - f ly i n g Fa s h i o n
WrightFlyer watch by Bremont What better for a pilot to wear a piece of the history of aviation? The WrightFlyer features the performance and efficiency of a hand-crafted reliable time-piece to accompany the most exiting adventures.
Bremont
Amelia Earhart’s Jacket – the Trans-Atlantic Flight Jacket A staple of Amelia Earhart’s flying wardrobe, this style of suede jacket was one of her picks for her history-making 1932 solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean and is featured in many photographs of the triumphant pilot.
Metal-Mirrored Aviator Sunglasses by Cutler and Gross These shades reflect a touch of style, perfectly matched with sailing the clouds. All of Cutler and Gross’ sunglasses are meticulously handmade and beautifully designed, with a protective coating and petrol-hued lens.
Cutler and Gross
The White Scarf by Tootal The white silk scarf is the pilot classic. Tootal scarves were the key fashion accessory during World War II. Made it Britain, this is the perfect touch of class to complete the aviator look.
Handcrafted from vegetable-tanned suede by artisans in France, this faithful recreation of the original is both practical and stylish. Crafted from 100% luxurious lambskin, it is a rarity, with only 300 of these handmade collector’s jackets produced.
Phoenix Project 23
Tootal
Many dream of flying, but few actually get there. Those that do become icons and the associated style has attracted the attention of fashion designers. Reflecting a job that steps from cloud to cloud, designers have turned this into fashion.
BR03-92-Heritage-Shadow by Bell and Ross The power, speed and rigour of a fighter pilot is combined into a single watch with the Heritage-Shadow. This military-looking watch by Bell and Ross is our pick for ex-RAF officers who wish to revive the memory of a 3,000-kilometre per hour take off.
Bell and Ross
Pilot Jacket - R.A.F. 1940 Pattern, by East Man Leather Originally designed by parachute pioneer Leslie Irvin in the early 1930s, the authentic RAF sheepskin flying jacket is now available for all pilots who wish to wear a piece of nostalgia from the Battle of Britain.
East Man Leather
Vento Sunglasses by MYKITA Pilots’ eyes are their most precious assets. This striking sunglass design by Mykita provides complete protection while endowing the wearer with a sporty charm. Each pair of shades is handcrafted and robust, perfect for the piloting lifestyle.
MYKITA
The Aviator Hat by Flying Jacket Although slightly out-moded, the Aviator Hat will certainly keep you warm at 2,000 feet. The style has been adopted by the high streets but this piece by Flying jacket adds the authenticity of a British-crafted headpiece.
Flying Jacket 24
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HAT
Magic In contemporary society women have a bee in their bonnet – they would often rather eat their hat than wear it. It takes courage to add a hat, but why?
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It is all about the plumage
H
ave you ever wondered why a queen wears a crown? In their infancy, crowns were created to distinguish a being who was thought to be ordained by the gods. While the style of head ornamentation transitioned from gold circlets to laurel wreaths, the significance of what it represented did not. Where the crown was concerned, the accompanying positive imagery was of wealth, power and prestige. But while we are now unlikely to spot Cleopatra bedecked on the Nile or a saintly glow surrounding a religious head, we can steal just a little of this glory for ourselves. Crowns came out on special occasions. They have associations with coronations and jubilees. The observant individual might notice that the same can be said for the modern-day hat. Hats have fallen out of everyday use, but when presented with a special occasion, perhaps a wedding or a once-a-year day at the races, the hat comes into its own. Hats are our modern-day crown. While some may shy away from headwear with the thought “what if nobody else wears one,” that is exactly why you should. “Life isn’t about finding yourself. Life is about creating yourself.” George Bernard Shaw wasn’t wrong when he spoke those immortal words. And if there was ever a sartorial application for them, hats would be it. Modern millinery is not fashion alone, it is art; architecture of the head. A lady is no longer confined to big boxy rattan numbers in lilac and peach. There is a new more chic, more stylish option. Take Wiltshire-based designer Vivien Sheriff for example, among the top milliners to have dressed the guests at the royal wedding in 2011, as reported in The Times. Sheriff’s designs are an endeavour in understated elegance, with curls and quills dancing from pillboxes and brims. She combines colour with shape, often adding a few inches of height to the wearer. It’s hard to 27
imagine being embarrassed in one of these hats. There is no room for embarrassment. This is a statement. Like the roman laurel wreath, the wearer is no ordinary individual. The most important aspect of wearing a hat is the attitude with which it is worn. A head that is slouched and apologetic for its own existence will not carry a hat upon it for long. It is confidence that most characterises the hat-wearer. A certain amount of balance and poise is required. When we think of iconic hats we think of Indiana Jones, Sherlock Holmes and Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Is it the hat that lends these characters their charisma? Or is it their charisma that rubs off on the hat? The two are entwined. This is why it is easy to compare the modern-day hat with the oldenday crown. Both are worn by select individuals who are separated from others by the distinction the hats lend. The only real difference is that we all have the option to wear a hat. It is unsurprising, however, that so many people are intimidated by the prospect of the hat. It is after all, right on top of your head. Who does not shudder at the prospect of making a mistake where everyone else can see it? A hat is not a subtle accessory, but when done well, it adds to a person what a cherry does to a cake. With just this slight adornment, one can go from palatable to delectable. But it is the trepidation that sorts the hat-wearer from the bare-header, for there is respect that is earned in the wearing of a hat – a respect that allows one to carry their head higher and their hat taller. The well-loved character Willy Wonka was famously never short as a child, for he distinctly remembered placing a very tall hat upon his head. One of the most prominent features of contemporary hat design is the feather. Ladies Day at Ascot is the nearest thing many encounter to standing in the midst of a flock. It is all about the plumage. The Ladies Day hat is a thing of legend, the phoenix of headwear. From the flames of short odds and equine perspiration rises the feathered hat, awash with colour, its talons varnished and its beak rouged.
For understated elegance, look for names such as Rachel Trevor Morgan and Edwina Ibbotson, or for a more witty design try the likes of Bundel Maclaren – to make yourself a talking point try her saucer of strawberries hat or taxidermy parrot headband. We’ve all heard the term peacocking used to describe men, but this is the female equivalent. Suddenly every woman has a crown and they all want to be the queen. Some argue that when a hat is placed upon the head, a little piece of it passes as if by osmosis into the brain. For many women, their day at the races will be the one day of the year they don a hat, let alone plan in detail which hat and the outfit assembled around it. Why only be a queen for a day? Why only wear a hat when there is a paddock full of rivals? A hat is a mind-set; a visual indication that you value what is inside your head as well as what is on top of it. Author Martha Sliter summed it up perfectly: “A hat is a flag, a shield, a piece of amour, and the badge of femininity. A hat is the difference between wearing clothes and wearing a costume; it’s the difference between being dressed and being dressed up; it’s the difference between looking adequate and looking your best. A hat is to be stylish in, to glow under, to flirt beneath, to make all others seem jealous over, and to make all men feel masculine about. A piece of magic is a hat.” Remember your hat. After all, a queen never forgets her crown.
Picture by Belmond and Vivien Sheriff
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V intage F ashion What is vintage? Vintage is where the mystery of feminism lies; the time when beauty and fashion reached its summit. It is a time when women expressed themselves and men were gentlemen. We look back with nostalgia on this era of beauty icons, elegance and glamour. “Charm is more valuable than beauty”, Audrey Tautou
Sultry Sunglasses Your eyes will be exclusively decked out with these key-shaped bridge sunglasses from Panto. Hide behind these glasses to generate the allure of mystery, then raise them to flash your most glamorous look. Panto Sunglasses from Courreges – £295
Courreges
Carrot Form Trousers High-waisted with darts, these trousers hark back to the ‘Fesculine’ (feminine/ masculine) fashion movement of the ‘60s. Designed by French brand All Saints, they will bring any woman the affirmation of power with a touch of glamour. Loose fitting tempered leg trousers – £118
All Saints 29
Must-have Makeup Makeup and hair are key for a vintage look. Used by beauty icons such as Audrey Tautou and extravagant performer Lady Gaga, these Besame Cosmetics are made for impact. 1946 – Red Velvet Lipstick – £22 1938 – Apricot Cream Rouge – £22
Besame Cosmetics
Grooming for Men A delightful set containing three of the Captain’s most desirable shaving requisites, this is ideal for those intent on appearing ship shape while keeping a stiff upper lip. Contents: Best Badger shaving brush with imitation ivory and chrome detail, accompanied by one of the finest hand-crafted safety razors and luxurious shaving soap in a hand-crafted wooden bowl.
Yes-Sir
Red Hot
Italian Tweed Eight Piece Cap
Raging red trousers were an icon of the ‘60s and now they’re back. Red is trendy, powerful and worn with a grey or green jacket, revives the old style. Tailor-made by Hacket, these red trousers are attention seekers in classic vintage style. Fiveo-pocket Moleskin Trousers – £125
Hackett
The Classic Blazer
Paisley Braces
Classic but smart, modern but vintage, this blazer by Dubarry of Ireland is the perfect finale for a vintage look. It projects the wearer back in the time, when men went hunting to bring the rabbit to the table. Made of wool, it’s the ideal winter companion.
What would a vintage look be without the cap and braces? Probably not a vintage look. These are the cherry on the cake. These Paisley Braces by one of our favourite gentlemen tailors, Peter Christian, are a good match for any vintage-look outfit.
GORSE from Dubarry - Men’s three-button tweed jacket with double-ticket pocket and alterable sleeve length – £399
Paisley Braces – £18
Dubarry Boots
Italian Tweed Eight Piece Cap – £35
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A PRESCRIPTION TO SKI
It is easy to imagine a situation where you are advised to take a break, chill out, or have a week in a spa for the sake of your health, but the astute clinician who is concerned about you recharging your batteries may instead recommend you take a ski holiday.
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W
e live in a stressful world. Every day we are faced with work deadlines, family pressures and environmental strain. A ski holiday could be the antidote. It’s not just about the benefit of burning 3000 calories per day on the slopes, or the improvement of fitness, muscle mass and flexibility. During this outdoor pursuit, endorphins and adrenaline are released into the bloodstream, elevating your mood and providing an overall sense of wellbeing and contentment. Beyond this, for a stressed individual, an active ski holiday helps focus the sympathetic system. This is not about emotional sympathy, but rather the part of the nervous system that puts your body into a state of alert. This system prepares you for action by increasing the heart rate and blood
pressure, accelerating respiration and releasing stress hormones. In short, the sympathetic system is like the gas pedal in a car. Today’s lifestyle promotes emotional stress, which generally doesn’t lead to concrete physical activity. When frustrated by a client or a deal is not going as planned, the sympathetic system sets off a general alarm: your pulse and respiration accelerate, your blood pressure climbs, and your pupils dilate. Your body is ready to face the challenge or run, the fight or flight response, but many times you hold yourself back. This common type of stress creates tension and adversely affects your health, as you rarely react. This can have negative effects on your health in the long term. Physical symptoms such as headaches, heartburn, palpitations,
anxiety, tightness in the neck and shoulders, irritability, insomnia, fatigue and digestive problems can all be directly related to the sympathetic system working overtime. Fortunately, the parasympathetic system does almost the opposite of the sympathetic system: it calms you and allows you to maintain energy, acting like a brake. This system slows the heart and respiratory rates, lowers blood pressure and allows the body to recover, also improving sleep quality. It’s practically impossible to eliminate all stress, but the parasympathetic system can be activated in other ways – by exercising or practising relaxation techniques. On a ski run, whooshing down the slope uses the excess
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energy stored by the sympathetic system. The parasympathetic system gains the upper hand over the sympathetic system and allows you to restore, recover and slide into a state of positive energy balance. Besides the cardiovascular and musculo-skeletal benefits of winter sports, skiing then embodies the advantage of energy restoration and relaxation. So next time you consider escaping to a tropical beach to destress during the winter break, think again. Forget hibernation, skiing is worth braving the cold for.
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Written by Dr Sabine Donnai, Chief Executive of Viavi Limited, a Londonbased health management company. For more information see: www.viavi.com
Up Next 36 Life-long learning and youth expeditions 40 Speakeasies make a comeback 45 Setting sail from Sardinia to Monaco
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Return with us to Nature’s perfect playground
Set on 11, 000 hectares, Gondwana is the only Fynbos reserve in the world with free roaming big 5 species. Luxury accommodation in Kwena Lodge suites or private bush villas ideal for families. Enjoy exhilarating game drives in a spectacular landscape. Ideally located only 4 hours from Cape Town and 45 Minutes from George Airport. Junior Ranger Experience for Kids over 6 years.
Contact Details: Tel: +27 (00 21 555 0807 Email: reservations@gondwanagr.co.za Website: www.gondwanagamereserve.com GARDEN ROUTE -SOUTH AFRICA
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Life-long Learning
Throughout this life, there’s much to learn. Dave Coyle recounts his launch into the world of youth expeditions.
“Hello Dave Coyle? We need you in the Jungle. Your flight leaves in 12 hours.”
T
hat was the phone conversation I had 10 years ago, which took me from a struggling outdoor pursuits instructor to an expedition leader.
Landing in Bangkok I was hit by the smells, noise and frantic pace of East Asia. Being my first time in Asia, it was time to put all my years of training and gaining of qualifications into practice. My first task was to change money. This was straight forward enough. Maybe this wouldn’t be so difficult. The next step was to get to a train station and head north. The trains depart from the airport directly to the main station, Don Muang, then after a short wait, chug north. I took a seat and dug out the information about the team I was going to find. 36
The world is my classroom, just as it is theirs.
I had been briefed that they were in a campsite in the central region of Thailand. They had been incountry for five days out of a 31-day expedition. The team consisted of 16 students aged between 15 and 17. They were from three different schools and each school had sent a teacher along. They had been put together at the last moment and had not met each other before arriving at the airport in the UK. Most had no travel experience, but all had been trained in the UK and had done some research. The expedition leader had had to leave the team. They had been told to remain static and wait for me to arrive. Arriving at my station, I jumped off the train, ready to find the campsite. “Mister, mister, help bags, help bags?” cried a teenage lad, wanting to help with my rucksack for a few Baht. My bag was packed for a month-long expedition. It looked bigger than him, but he looked strong. At this point my thoughts turned to when I last slept, what time it was in the UK, what time it was in Thailand and what time did my body think it was? I was tired and needed a good meal. Still trying to work out what day it was, the 37
young lad became my guide for the day. With some hand signals and the words “Food, food,” my new guide grabbed my rucksack and off we went. Eating true Thai food, cooked in traditional ways surrounded by locals, is fantastic. I had no idea what I was eating, but it was good – spicy but delicious. The next step was to try to explain to my guide that I was looking for a campsite where a western team were waiting. Could he take me? This was an ambitious attempt at communication. There was a lot of information to get across. With the help of a pen, paper, most of the locals, a lot of acting and laughing, we got there. Sitting on the back of a beat up moped with the rucksack on my back, my day pack on my driver’s back and the only helmet tied to the middle of the handle bars, we set off. I’ll never forget charging around the town visiting campsites and talking to locals. The police indicated that I should be wearing the helmet, which was bright orange, cracked and had no padding, strap or cradle. The police really didn’t care if my guide
had one on. It was me they were worried about. Bouncing along, the suspension hit the stops every time he aimed for and hit a pothole in the dusty roads, jarring my back. Yet around me were some of the most impressive Buddhist and Hindu ruins I’ve ever seen, sweltering in the hot and humid weather until 4pm, when the heavens opened. I knew this was going to happen, but rain it was not. It was continuous streams off warm water falling from the sky. Careering the moped though the mud, we stopped under a canopy. It was time to check in with the operations centre. I got on the Sat phone and the team had informed them that they were north in the jungle, about an hour’s trek. Leaving my new-found friend with a handsome sum of money and a big smile, I headed off solo. Machete in hand and rucksack on back, I needed to get a move on. Dark would be on me around 8 o’clock. The rain had stopped but the path was muddy and steam was rising from the leaves. The humidity was returning. My first lesson was how the puddles differ. You step in and
soon find it’s not a puddle but an elephant’s footprint and it’s 18-inches deep. I soon learnt to dodge every bit of water. I heard the team before they knew I was there. Crashing through the final section of undergrowth, the team spotted me and the real work began. I have gone on since that day to lead numerous expeditions around the world, stepping on six of the seven continents, from the depths of the jungle in Borneo, with leeches and snakes, to more than 6000 metres above sea level in the Himalayas. This has all been with students on youth-development expeditions. I’ve seen great changes in the students I have had the pleasure to lead. They have impressed and surprised me at times and made me bang my head against the wall at others. I know though, that all have had life-changing experiences and have gained the fourth dimension of education that they can only learn when put to the test outside their comfort zones. The world is my classroom, just as it is theirs.
“The rain had stopped but the path was muddy and steam was rising from the leaves.” 38
HANDCRAFTED USING TRADITIONAL SMALL BATCH DISTILLATION; THIS FINE LONDON DRY GIN MARRIES ONLY THE FINEST BOTANICALS TOGETHER WITH A NEUTRAL SPIRIT DISTILLED FROM GRAPES. IT IS THIS UNUSUAL RELATIONSHIP WHICH GIVES CHILGROVE GIN ITS SOPHISTICATED CHARACTER, WHILST THE PERFECTLY BALANCED ELECT OF FLAVOURS, TRULY MAKE IT THE GIN FOR ALL SEASONS.
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The word is out. Speakeasies are where it is at. And the word on everyone’s lips? “Shhh…It’s a secret.”
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The Secret Prohibition in America may be a thing of the past, but speakeasies are making a furtive comeback. A world of unmarked doors, hidden stairways and dim lighting awaits.
O
ur reservation is confirmed by text message in the afternoon. In the evening we walk down the main street before turning off onto a dark, narrow alley. We look around nervously to make sure we are not being followed. At the back of a well-known hotel, we press the call button on the service door and are buzzed in. The attendant checks our names and leads us down a dimly-lit set of stairs, past a fuse box and an old gas meter, into a narrow corridor. The destination of our covert operation is through a set of sheer billowing curtains. “Welcome to Manifesto,” says the attendant as she leads us to two chairs at the dark wooden bar. She gestures towards a man on the other side of the counter dressed in 1920s regalia – dark trousers, with a white shirt, pinstriped waistcoat and Fedora hat – “Joseph will take your order.” Across America, speakeasies are making a comeback and they are keeping their air of secrecy. In a fashion. In the Roaring Twenties, this was born of necessity. Prohibition was the mother of the speakeasy concept and these establishments popped up in hidden locations, offering food, drinks and jazz in a clandestine atmosphere. Speakeasies were notorious for their links with the gangsters who controlled bootlegging. This was a time of unprecedented prosperity and jubilance in the USA, but also one of secrecy and criminality and all of these aspects came together in the 1920s speakeasy. 41
Given the nature of a speakeasy, the contemporary versions walk a fine line between remaining a secret and drawing a crowd. In the reincarnations, the secrecy is a carefully generated illusion. This is a business after all. Many of the speakeasies don’t have websites, Facebook pages or Twitter accounts but Google can find them. And if Google can find it, so can Joe Public. “Our primary means of getting the word out is word of mouth recommendation,” claims Jim Meehan, managing partner of Please Don’t Tell (PDT) in New York. That and speaking to journalists obviously. Take the case of Harold Black, a mainstay on the Washington DC night scene. Harold Black started in December 2012 with no social media – a brave move in this area of digital connectivity. The phone number wasn’t even published anywhere. Instead, the owners personally distributed business cards with the initials “HB” and the number to potential customers in the hope that the word would spread organically. Getting the bar’s number is just the first step. If you mistakenly call for a reservation, instead of the accepted text message format, you reach an annoying recorded message advising that the subscriber you have called is not available. Leave a message or hang up. Either way Harold Black will text you back to explain the reservation system. Just don’t call from a landline.
This was a time of unprecedented prosperity and jubilance in the USA
Historically, speakeasies were on the wrong side of the law and entrance was strictly for people in-the-know. Today, this aspect is enduring. Untitled, in Chicago’s River North area – the city’s premier dining, entertainment, and nightlife district – is completely underground. There is no sign outside, just a doorman most nights and the address. Shreyas Shah, chief brand officer, believes this “immediately creates an insider’s feel to the place”, keeping it true to the speakeasy concept.
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PDT in New York takes the concept one step further. Guests enter via a retro hot dog outlet called Crif Dogs, complete with arcade games from the 1980s. A vintage phone booth sits against the wall. “The bar is totally unmarked,” explains Meehan “So you need to know where it is and how to get in. You walk into the booth, dial 1, and my host greets you after a buzzer sounds.” This may come as a surprise, as the entire back wall of the phone booth swings open into the lounge. “A lot of people find the phone booth to be a gimmick,” says Jim, “but it’s fun, and bars are supposed to be fun.” There is something cloak and dagger about it, which adds to the appeal. While the novelty of a furtive entry may wear off, that’s where the food and beverage offering comes into play. Both Untitled and PDT offer hand-crafted drinks, ordered either a la carte, or personally tailored to the
guest’s tastes. Tell your server your favourite flavours and you will be rewarded with a concoction made to the highest standards, with specialty ingredients and an explanation of the process that reads like a recipe book. The superb skills of the mixologists are worthy of the hefty price tags drinks command. On the food side, the bars take different tacks. Untitled has been awarded Michelin bib gourmand for its menu, meant for sharing. Chef Joseph Heppe combines seasonal ingredients with modern flair in a series of dishes ranging from truffled 43
chicken liver pate to duck sausage and bison burgers. PDT, on the other hand, given its location and partnership with Crif Dogs, focuses on the New York staple: the hot dog. “It’s a yin and yang thing,” explains Meehan. “We serve hand crafted US$15 cocktails made with a number of esoteric ingredients, which can be daunting to some. The hot dogs and tater tots balance out our offerings. There’s a fine line between pretension and modesty, and the food really helps bring our drinks programme down to earth. Given we’re attached to Crif Dogs, it only seems right to serve hot dogs.” The food might get people talking, but if they do so, it will need to in hushed tones. The speakeasy was so called because of the practice of speaking quietly about these establishments in public, or even when inside, so as not to alert police or neighbours. Times may have changed, but the rules haven’t. The framed rules of etiquette at PDT start with the Golden Rule: “Treat others how you would like to be treated. For those of you who don’t treat yourselves very well, please continue reading. ”Further regulations prohibit smoking, game playing, mobile phones and overtures towards other guests, all of which contribute to the cosy, comfortable atmosphere. Untitled is the larger of the two, with a capacity of 465 patrons. It is also the louder, but not from the sounds of dulcet mobile ringtones. The lounge features live music six nights a week. “We focus on American roots music: rhythm and blues, soul, country, blues, hot jazz, big band and more,” outlines Shah. “Our live music and entertainment is amazing. We have four distinct rooms which
each have their own character and appeal. At Untitled, there is something for everyone. People can come eat, drink, and experience live music and entertainment all at once. It’s a true supper club experience.” The speakeasies have tapped into something – whether it’s the hush-hush ambiance, the lure of bespoke beverages, a tasty hot dog, toe-tapping jazz or the appeal of stepping back into the 1920s. A diverse range of people are finding their way into these hidden dens. “An eclectic mix of customers come here,” says Shah of Untitled. “It’s true that it’s a very cool crowd, but we also serve a lot of business and corporate clientele, particularly business travellers.” Meehan claims a similar mix for PDT. “I’m glad the demographic and age range is wide,” he says. “It makes for a better atmosphere.”
Our primary means of getting the word out is word of mouth recommendation
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O n t h e Tra i l : S a rd i n ia to M o n a c o The Sardinia to Monaco journey is a mesmerising and enchanting way to spend 10 days aboard a yacht. From Sardinia to Corsica and then the French Riviera, the journey is filled with spectacular views, pristine beaches and an abundance of old and new Mediterranean charm. With promises of striking sunsets, divine food and dynamic nightspots, this trip offers unforgettable memories. DAY 1: ARRIVE IN PORTO CERVO, SARDINIA The Aga Khan stumbled upon this undiscovered area in the early 1960s and planned an ambitious redevelopment, resulting in the formation of the Costa Smeralda in Northern Sardinia. Here you will find stretches of white sand beaches and the beautiful emerald blue sea, which has resulted in it being named the Emerald Coast. Lying in the heart of this stretch is the Porto Cervo marina, one of the best-equipped marinas in the Mediterranean, with over 700 berths. 45
Don’t be surprised to see a flurry of celebrities and financiers lazing on their boats over the summer months. The most spectacular beach to visit is the Spaggia del Principe, the beach named after the Prince Karim Aga Khan. Many of the remote coves and beaches here can be reached via boat and foot. For dining out, world-renowned Cipriani’s is a local favourite, as is celebrity chef Michele Farru’s Fior d’Acqua. For those who want to carry on into the early hours, the place to be is Flavio Briatore’s Billionaire club. The name says it all.
DAY 2: PORTO ROTANDO & CALA DI VOLPE Porto Rotando is the tranquil sister marina of Porto Cervo. Although similar in architectural influences, this marina also has a Venetian feel, influenced by its’ founders, who hailed from Venice. Spend the day enjoying the boat or getting out on jet skis and as afternoon approaches, take a relaxing stroll along the boutique and restaurant-filled marina. For a great sunset view and a pre-dinner cocktail, move the yacht
towards Cala di Volpe. A spectacular five-star hotel near Porto Cervo, Cala di Volpe has the feel of an old colourful Sardinian village, yet with beautiful modern architecture. James Bond fans will recognise the resort from The Spy who Loved Me. The Il Pontile bar is the perfect spot to have a drink and admire the emerald-green sea view, while listening to the bar’s live pianist. For foodies, their spectacular Sardinian and Mediterranean brunch is one of a kind, or if it’s a round of golf you’re after, the 18-hole Pevero Golf Club is moments away.
DAY 3: MADDELENA ARCHIPELAGO The Maddalena Archipelago is a cluster of islands located within the Straits of Bonifacio, along the northeastern coast of Sardinia. The islands are captivating, with crystal clear waters, pink sand,
idyllic coves and the blue cliffs rising from the deep seabed. There are a variety of islands, each with different characteristics. La Maddalena is the largest town in the archipelago and is situated on Maddalena Island, where residents speak a Sardo-Corsican dialect known as Maddalenino. Here you can find bustling streets packed with shops, restaurants and cafes leading to two main centres of activity; Piazza Umberto I and Via Garibaldi. The island is also connected by a causeway to the island of Caprera, known for being the residence of the Italian revolutionary Guiseppe Garibaldi. Here you will find the Garibaldi Museum. If you only have time for only one island, it should be Budelli Island, one of Italy’s most exquisite islands with rare, pink-coloured sand stretched across a nine-kilometre coastline. It was first made famous in the Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960s film Deserto Rosso. One of the best mooring places for boats is in front of the Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach).
This area is fantastic for snorkelling and underwater photography. Other islands around the Archipelago include Razzoli, Santa Maria, Santo Stefano and Spargi.
DAY 4: GOODBYE SARDINIA, HELLO CORSICA To travel towards Corsica, your boat will move through the Strait of Bonifacio, seven miles wide and named after the Corsical town of Bonifacio. As you approach the fourth-largest Mediterranean island, Corsica, you will notice the striking landscape of this 8,700-square-kilometre island. The French have given it the nickname l’Ile de Beaute, The Isle of Beauty. The island is full of striking natural features and has been influenced by assorted occupiers – the 46
Greeks, Romans, Pisans, British and Genovese all occupied this island at some point in history. The three climate zones within Corsica illustrate how vertical this island really is.
The white sand beaches Palombaggio and Santa Giulia that lie to the south of Porto Vecchio offer plenty of action for sun-seekers. For local food, some of the dishes to try in Porto Vecchio are smoked ricotta and sea urchins.
There are a great selection of quaint cafés and restaurants in Quai Comparetti where you are often able to hear the sounds of Corsican blues music and you can also find the marina’s aquarium at ville basse.
The first stop is Porto Vecchio. The town is uber hip, the beaches the finest on the island and a vast forest rests above the city that houses 11,000 inhabitants year-round and many more in the summer months.
For those looking to party into the early hours, Via Notte club is the place to be, a favourite amongst French celebrities and sport personalities.
The most picturesque street in Bonifacio, Rue du Palais de Garde, hosts some of Corsica’s oldest houses and many double-arched windows
DAY 5: BONIFACIO
DAY 6: PORTO
Be prepared to be blown away. As your yacht arrives in Bonifacio, stand on the deck to enjoy the view. An old medieval town sits above stunning limestone cliffs that jut out into the sea, separated from Sardinia only by the Strait of Bonifacio and the clear turquoise sea. Arriving into the inlet, you will find a chic marina full of small fishing boats as well as super-sized yachts.
Porto, a tiny village with a beautiful marina, is a great spot to explore some of Corsica’s finest beauties. The coastline of Porto features some beautiful beaches as well.
There is both an old port from the 1960s and a modern harbour, equipped with all of the amenities and infrastructure you could need during a visit.
A walk to the Citadel, built in the 9th century, is a must. It is located in the Upper City haute ville peering over the harbour, which houses a museum and the residents’ quarter. You will find a gorgeous view of the white limestone cliffs and a huge lump of fallen rock-face, the Grain de Sable. 47
Magnificent views can be found at the 16th century Genovese watchtower and Les Calanches is close-by, offering spectacular sea views that can be explored by foot on marked walking trails. Whilst in Corsica, eat as the Corsicans do – the Broccui Cheese, with a similar taste to Ricotta, should be your cheese of choice. Ideally eaten within 48 hours of production, this is considered the national food of Corsica.
For those looking to party into the early hours, Via Notte club is the place to be DAY 7: CALVI Rumoured to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, the hideaway of Napoleon during the French Revolution and now one of Corsica’s biggest tourist destinations, Calvi has much to offer. As you arrive, you will enjoy the scenic sights of bastions nestled in front of a mountainous background. Take it easy over lunch at Octopussy beach club and join the lunchtime crowd starting the party early with bottles of bubbly. You’ve tried some Corsican delicacies and now it’s time to sample some local wine. Calvi is one of several wine regions on the island. Here the varietals to try are the wines originating from the vines located in Vin de Corse Calvi. Famous nightclub Chez Tao, founded by Russian military officer Tao Kerekoff, is over 75 years old and is still the nightspot of choice.
DAY 8: SUN, SEA & SAND IN ST TROPEZ It’s time to say goodbye to Corsica and hit the French Riviera and St Tropez is the perfect starting point on this journey. The old fishing village transformed when Brigitte Bardot set foot here. St Tropez epitomises everything that the Cote D’Azur is known for. The small port area is packed with yachts, where people sit on-deck enjoying the atmosphere. Boutiques, cafes and bars surround the marina area. Enjoy the sushi platter and some pink champagne at Nikki Beach, where you can arrive directly by boat. If you have the energy to carry on, the St Tropez nighttime haunt is Les Caves du Roy.
DAY 9: THE FABULOUS & THE FAMOUS IN CANNES Well-known for hosting the most famous film festival in the world, Cannes is the glamorous heart of the French Riviera. Promenade de la Croisette stretches along the Cannes coastline with bustling beach clubs along the waterfront, luxury boutiques lining the street and imposing five-star hotels
like the Martinez protruding from the rear. Walking along the Rue d’Antibes, you will find exclusive boutiques and a wide selection of designers. If you have time to leave the waterfront, visit the well-known luxury fragrance centre of Grasse, making a visit to the International Perfume Museum to explore the history of French perfumeries. 48
For lunch, the Baoli beach club on the Boulevard de la Croisette is a great spot, as is L’Ecrin Plage at Port Pierre Canto. For evening dining, Le Baoli is a lovely restaurant and lounge with a wide selection of Asian and Mediterranean-inspired dishes. For dessert, the Baoli dessert platter offers the most divine selection of sweets you’ll across in one single swoop. This is the perfect spot to carry on into the night, when the DJ and the club kicks in and the delightful super-sized cocktails with long fluorescent straws and sparklers appear.
the summertime, and an array of breakfast options await. Nestled between France and Italy, Monaco is the favoured destination of the iconic Grand Prix each year. As you arrive, you will notice row after row of glossy yachts, a picturesque view of colourful buildings and a plethora of winding, narrow roads.
there for the changing of the guard ceremony, the “Carabiniers,” at 11.55am, you’ll be delighted by the colourful, atmospheric celebration.
Monaco is the land of the rich and famous and every inch oozes luxury, regality, glamour and charm.
The Café de Paris is the perfect outdoor arena for an exquisite lunch, set inside the enclave of Casino Square with views of the casino, the spectacular Hotel de Paris and the fountains. Opposite here you’ll find the Metropole shopping centre, which accommodates over 70 exclusive boutiques.
DAY 10: FINAL DESTINATION, MONACO
One of the best ways to explore the two-square-kilometre stretch of Monaco is on foot and there are public escalators that help if the climb gets tough.
For those after Michelin-star dining, look no further. Monaco hosts a fantastic selection of Michelin-star chefs from Alain Ducasse to Joel Robuchon.
If you feel like a stop over en route to Monaco, breakfast al fresco at the Chevre D’or in the village of Eze is highly recommended. Beautiful landscaped gardens, great views of the sea, sprinkled with boats in
A stroll through the pedestrian streets and passageways of the Grimaldi family home Monaco-Ville is a must. From the Palais Princier, the Prince’s Palace, to the Saint Martin Gardens, there is much to see. If you can be
To finish your night and your holiday in style, Jimmyz nightclub is a happening spot, where the DJ will keep you partying until the wee hours.
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Up Next 51 The shabby-chic decor trend 53 Horses in art
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The Shabby-Chic Décor Revolution
Secretary desk A graceful addition to the study, this secretary desk offers elegance and nobility. Its ornate façade evokes vintage chic and with its subtle colouring it will complement any colour scheme. £295, by My Country Furniture
mycountryfurniture
Antique French Daybed
Antique Style French Lantern
The only thing more inviting than a bookshelf full of books waiting a reader is this distressed bookshelf ready to be taken home and filled with literary heroes and heroines. It has character and sophistication, yet is also endowed with a fully functional quality, making it a standalone design piece for the home.
£49.99, by The Flower Studio
£1,425, by Out There Interiors
flowerstudioshop
outthereinteriors
Iron antique French style towel rack Feminine and delicate, this beautiful towel rack looks exquisite against a bathroom painted duck-egg-blue or mint-green, with cream coloured towels draped over the rungs. The floral centrepiece adds a touch of French charm to create that delightful shabby-chic look.
£1,461.17, by Full Bloom Cottage
£54.99, by Homes Direct 365
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Ornate distressed bookcase
Designed for indoor or outdoor use, this rustic lantern adds a romantic allure to the atmosphere, with its intricate pattern and distressed teal tones. The French-style lantern has the feel of an aged artisan product. It has been deliberately distressed to create a vintage appearance with variations that add to the charm.
This dreamy daybed hints at languid afternoons, nibbling peeled grapes and having nothing more to worry about than which soiree you’re going to attend in the evening. Although it has connotations of days gone by, it also makes a great contemporary talking piece.
fullbloomcottage
T
imeless and elegant are the catchwords for décor within the shabby-chic design style, which transforms rooms in to a welcoming space. Think cosy countryside cottages, French farmhouse décor and vintage furnishings that wouldn’t look out of place in your grandmother’s home. Embrace the imperfections of shabby chic with these diamonds in the rough.
homedirect365
contents Click to go forward
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E questr ia n
Art
According to Aristotle, “The aim of art is to represent not the outward appearance of things, but their inward significance.” Denise Finney relates that significance in extraordinary equine artworks.
I
am looking at a painting. A painting of a horse called The New One. This horse was the winner of the Neptune Investment Management Novice’s Hurdle Race at Cheltenham Festival in 2013. What is most significant about this is that I originally thought I was looking at a photograph. This painting is executed with such finesse, with such acute attention to detail, that it is akin to the 53
very moment itself. Everything about it is perfect. From that slight tilt of the horse’s head to the inquisitive prick of the ears, from the ripple of jockey silks to the undulations of muscle beneath a sleek bay coat. I am instantly struck. It is clear from the off that the artist is somebody who doesn’t just know how to paint, but is performing from a place of such profound empathy that the spirit of the subject looks ready to gallop out of the canvas. The artist whose work is hanging on the walls of equine adorers and art aficionados alike is Denise Finney, a Devon based artist who immortalises equestrian greats from the comfort of her kitchen table. ‘I am mostly inspired by nature, its many moods, colours and forms. The natural world is the world I inhabit,’ Denise explains. It is clear that art is her passion, that which separates a day job from a vocation. Denise talks about how she always drew as a child and spent many happy hours
in the pre-Raphaelite art room at the Tate, inspired by flowing locks and sensuous skin. She recounts the familiar story of the child who tells their career advisor “I want to paint professionally.” When the career advisor negates the possibility, Denise thought: “that was it, the catalyst.” This goes some way to explaining the sheer grit necessary to make it as an artist, a grit that Denise possesses, which is immediately clear in her work. Take the image of Big Buck, the legendary animal that was the first National Hunt horse to win 17 consecutive races. Her painting of this equine phenomena invites the viewer to observe the gentleness in his eyes, offset by the strength of his great flaring nostrils. Finney sees the contradiction that is the horse; the physical dominance but nevertheless those limitations in form, the so breakable legs, the flightiness of character. “Horses fascinate me,
they are truly complex animals – enormously strong powerful athletes, yet ultimately fragile and easily damaged,” Denise says. It is this vulnerability that most characterises her work. The perception of juxtaposition characterises the art; that where there is hard there is soft, where there is light there is shade and where there is strength there is also weakness. Her creative process is a personal one. There is a sense of vision from the very start. Denise explains: “When I begin a new painting, my aim is to create something that is as close as possible to the real thing. Before I begin, I know exactly how I want the finished piece to look.” For Denise, the process involves visualising the subject inside out. Inspired by the accurate anatomical drawings of Leonardo Da Vinci, she studies the makeup of the creature to produce an image that is near photographical in accuracy. “When I paint a horse I am really studying the anatomy of the animal, what is going on under their fine skin, as you can see every muscle and sinew when they are in
motion…I enjoy testing myself, to see if I can create the correct texture and anatomical balance.” There is a magnetic modesty to Denise. She is so reticent to blow her own trumpet that she sums up her creative process as “I just sit in my kitchen and paint.” It is this humility that makes her work all the more endearing. “It is like putting together an extremely difficult jigsaw puzzle with all the pieces swimming around in my head. One by one, day by day, they fall into place until the puzzle is complete. Hopefully, all the pieces fit together as they should.” When talking about what is next, Denise says she has been painting Andalusians, Spanish horses that are quite different to thoroughbreds but with a presence and power that is irresistible to any equestrian artist. Denise is overrun with requests and is enthusiastic about all of the commission opportunities that come her way. “I have also been asked if I would like to paint some reindeer and a rare breed of old English cattle which I would love to do,” she says.
Imagine how these works would look hung in your home; the way a piece would sit upon your wall as your own piece of contemporary art. This is modern art that harks back to the golden days of painting and the likes of Georgian equestrian painter George Stubbs. The days when a picture looked like that which it was trying to recreate, when the magic was in the movement, the precision of lines and the intensity of a gaze. Denise captures all this and more. Her pictures speak and they hope that you will listen. “That is the beauty of art; everyone is looking for something to reach out to them and we are not all of one mind,” she says. That might be so, but those who view Denise’s paintings are of one mind. Her work is a testament to modern art, elite equestrianism and the magnificence of a moment. If you invest in any art this year, make it a Denise Finney, a woman so honest that the art she creates is as close to the genuine article as anything could possibly be.
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Up Next 58 The fun of a vintage fair 61 Sailing for all
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Stepping B ac k i n T i m e Vintage is all around us: fashion, design, décor and more. It’s not surprising that vintage fairs are popping up more and more across the globe. Here’s what to expect when you look into the past.
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one china tea sets, cameos, floral wallpaper, tweed skirts, a rope of pearls, seamed stockings, mink capes and silk gloves. Somehow these emblems of the past seem more luxurious than those of today. The allure of the mid-twentieth century has sent people reeling back in a flurry of victory rolls and cucumber sandwiches. There is something in the Guerlain-scented air of the past that has inspired a meteoric rise in vintage events. The word nostalgia is often used, but rarely considered. This is the word for that ache of familiarity. It is a word that smells faintly of mothballs and dried tea leaves. It is that attachment to a place, a time or an object that sends one stumbling into half-forgotten memories. It is not a
sad word, but an uplifting one. Nostalgia is that goldtinted memory that transports you back to when the sun was a little brighter and the grass a little greener. Here lives the great appeal of the retro revival. Whether it is the impressive St Andrews church of Lou Lou’s vintage fair in Norwich or the sprawling miles of the Earl of March’s Revival in West Sussex, these events share this longing for the lost in a vibrant atmosphere. More than this though, there is a sense that none of these things have truly been absent. If you make the commitment to sit at four o’clock each day with a slice of homemade Victoria sponge and a teapot of Darjeeling, you can. It’s as if Great Aunt Ethel is back in the room, saucer in hand and West Highland White at her feet. 58
It is amazing how little is required to transport the senses. It may be the taste of a humbug or the voice of Doris Day. Ambiance plays a big part in the success of a vintage day out. Visitors should feel that the bunting has been hand-stitched, probably from clothes so worn that make do and mend just wouldn’t do. It is important that the books are battered and the gloves neatly fitted. It’s all about the feeling with a nostalgia show. If the tweed isn’t made of wool and the flowers are artificial, the ambiance dies. The connoisseur is searching for that homespun vibe that is so alluring compared with today’s fast-paced consumerism.
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Not all vintage shows have a dress code, but many do. It wouldn’t be right to turn up to London’s tweed run without a tweed. Regardless of whether you enjoy delving into the fancy dress box yourself, the peoplewatching at these events is second to none. It is incredible what a change can be made when a man dons a military suite. And quite often, to not dress for the occasion is to be the odd one out. While vintage fairs are not all dress-up occasions, they are a hot spot for retro aficionados. Many dress vintage all year round, but for those who don’t, this is the right place to source that special one-off. For many, the food is lure enough to discard jeans in favour of plus fours. It is most often the afternoon tea that is heralded as the haute cuisine of the vintage fair. This is not just scones and clotted cream. Conjure a cake stand bedecked with the likes of thinly cut cucumber sandwiches and rose-infused fairy cakes. Imagine generous slices of tiffin, alongside bakewell tarts and tart au fraise. These delights paired with voluptuous teapots and wafer thin china are the recipe for vintage-fair success.
What is really learnt from attending a nostalgia show, is that bringing vintage into your everyday is easily done. Switch flicking through the television channels for a black and white Hitchcock film, or transport yourself to the French Riviera with some classic tunes and a vintage cocktail in hand. Who doesn’t relish an olive at the bottom of their drink? Wallpaper, tea sets and fountain pens are all good ways of incorporating a little bit of the old into the new of life. When you’re ready to step back in time, try these vintage events: The Goodwood revival The Tweed Run Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair The Chap Olympiad
A RGY L E P R I M A ™ — LOT 1 1. 20 CA R AT FA N CY R E D P E A R Taking centre stage in the Argyle Pink Diamonds Tender 2015, Argyle Prima™ is named in tribute to the world’s most notable ballerinas, and offers a rare and potent combination of colour and exceptional clarity.
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Accessing the
Open Seas
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he square-rigged sails pull taut in the wind as the magnificent ship sails out of Lisbon harbour in Portugal. The permanent crew competently direct the voyage crew in the tasks necessary to start the STS Lord Nelson’s voyage. Over the next 14 days, the ship will wend her way to Las Palmas, the Capital of Gran Canaria in the Canary Islands, taking in the captivating cultural heritage of the areas she passes through. There are no passengers on this adventure – everyone aboard is considered to be crew. It’s all hands on deck, whether vision impaired, hard of hearing, wheelchair bound or ablebodied. It’s all about teamwork on this accessible sailing ship. In October 1986, the newly built Lord Nelson made her way out of Southampton to start changing lives. Since that time, tens of thousands of people have sailed with the Jubilee Sailing Trust, either on the Lord Nelson or on Tenacious, launched in 2000. Many of these part-time sailors are physically disabled, including thousands of wheelchair users. Lord Nelson was the first squarerigged ship in the world to have been designed to enable able-bodied and disabled people to sail side by side. Along with Tenacious, she was commissioned by the Jubilee Sailing Trust (JST), a charity founded in 1978 to promote the integration of people of all physical abilities through the challenge of crewing a tall ship.
The Jubilee Sailing Trust owns and operates two special tall ships. They are the only tall ships in the world specifically designed and built to enable people with sensory impairments and physical disabilities to sail on equal terms with their more able counterparts. 61
The JST was the brain child of Christopher Rudd, who began his involvement with special needs children in the sixties. For eight years he was a sailing instructor at a school for children of limited ability and for three years at a school for emotionally disturbed children. It increasingly obvious to Christopher that the obstacles which prevented disabled people from off-shore sailing were to a large extent artificial and were all issues which could be surmounted. He believed that given adequate safeguards, thoughtful design and proper equipment, disabled people should be able sail equally with the ablebodied off-shore and not just in sheltered waters.
Christopher inspired others with his enthusiasm and chance allowed him to meet several people who became instrumental in moving the project forward. The first funding came from a grant from the Queen’s Silver Jubilee Appeal, sealing the name of the Trust. Further grants, including a £150,000 windfall from the Beaverbrook Foundation, led to the decision to build a purpose-designed vessel that could sail unimpeded, incorporating adaptations for disabled people. This required a ship with wheelchair access throughout, with light hauling loads on the ropes and a good measure of stability against heeling. The process of trial and error took years. One test involved capsizing a wheelchair. Testing showed this more or less reliably at 12 degrees. Lord Nelson was therefore designed to have a full sailing performance at 10 degrees. The final result was a ship that has the capability of sailing with a mixed physical ability crew in virtually any sea in the world. Since then Lord Nelson has sailed hundreds of thousands of miles, participated in The Tall Ships Races and been instrumental in helping to change thousands of lives, whether through a five-day sailing, a 15-day voyage or a 40-day journey. The objective of sailing on either Lord Nelson or Tenacious is the same – to include people from all walks of life; to offer challenges and promote teamwork; to improve
communication skills and increase disability awareness through working together as crew. Everyone is included in the experience, involved in all aspects of sailing the ships to the best of their abilities. This goes from setting sails to helming, cleaning and maintaining the ships. The emphasis is on inclusion and what people can do, not what they cannot. “For some this is an opportunity to discover talents they never knew they possessed, but for many there is an opportunity to set sail on an adventure that can provide a truly lifechanging experience,” explains CEO Alex Lochrane. Onboard, each person is assigned a buddy and together they discover how to sail the ship. The buddy systems teams physically disabled and able-bodied pairs, to promote integration, the central concept of the mission. “We have people from all walks of life sail with us,” Lochrane says. “Especially thanks to Sail the World we have Voyage Crew from all over the world. We do have groups and couples sail, and they can sail together if they want to.” Lochrane goes on to say: “It is rare for a buddy team not to get along, but the watchleaders and permanent crew are experienced enough to deal with such issues on an individual basis.” Everyone pays the same amount to travel, but every place is subsidised – only 50% of the operating costs are covered through voyage fees. The balance comes from donations
and fundraising activities. This is no small feat – it costs around £3million to run the ships each year. Whether you are an avid sailor, or a complete landlubber, Lord Nelson and Tenacious offer opportunities for you to not only take to the seas, but also to share the experience with a new friend on equal terms.
“A lot of people make friends that they are still in contact with over a decade later,” says Lochrane.
“The voyage opens their eyes to what other people are capable of and shows true teamwork. And they get to participate in a real adventure.” After all, sailing a three-masted, square-rigger through the middle of the night and watching phosphorescence being churned up by the wake and then waking to see the sun rise on the empty horizon is pretty spectacular sight. From a day sail to a once in a life-time round the world epic journey, your ship awaits, as does your buddy. It’s time to set sail. Other ways to help include getting involved in a sponsored challenge, becoming a friend of the Jubilee Sailing Trust or holding a fundraising event. See the website for details.
To learn more about the JST, Lord Nelson or Tenacious, see: jst.org.uk To donate see: jst.org.uk/forms/ onlinedonation
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Lifestyle Brand Listing Motoring:
Destination:
Land Rover – www.landrover.com Audi www.audi.co.uk Auto Sport International – www.autosportinternational.com/ Mitsuoka Motor – www.mitsuoka-motor.co.uk
Octopussy beach club – www.plage-octopussy.com/ Nikki Beach – www.nikkibeach.com Stellenbosch – www.stellenboschexperience.co.za Belmond Northern Belle – www.belmond.com/northern-belle-train
Fashion:
Entertainment:
Vivien Sheriff – www.viviensheriff.co.uk Cutler and Gross – www.cutlerandgross.com Mykita Sunglasses – www.mykita.com All Saints – www.allsaints.com Dubarry of Ireland – www.dubarryboots.com Phoenix Project – www.phoenixproject.com Tootal – www.tootal.co.uk Flying Jacket – www.flying-jacket.com Eastman Leather – www.eastmanleather.com Peter Christian – www.peterchristian.co.uk Hackett – www.hackett.com Courreges – www.courreges.com
Jimmy’z nightclub – www.fr.jimmyzmontecarlo.com
Accommodation: The Kulm Hotel St Moritz – www.kulm.com Martinez Hotel – www.cannesmartinez.grand.hyatt.com Gondwana Game Reserve – www.gondwanagamereserve.com South Beach Cape Town – www.blueviews.com Corinthia Hotel – www.corinthia.com/hotels/budapest/
Events:
Textron Aviation – www.textron.com Boultbee Flight Academy – www.boultbeeflightacademy.co.uk The Aircraft Restoration Company – www.arc-duxford.co.uk
Goodwood – www.goodwood.com The London Yacht, Jet and Prestige Cars Show – londonyachtjetandprestigecarshow.com/ Casino Square – www.casinomontecarlo.com The Goodwood revival The Tweed Run – www.tweedrun.squarespace.com Lou Lou’s Vintage Fair – www.thevintagefair.com The Chap Olympiad – www.thechapolympiad.com
Yachting:
Charity:
Classic Sailing – www.classic-sailing.co.uk Swell Voyage – www.swellvoyage.com/ Sunsail – www.sunsail.co.uk Moorings – www.moorings.co.uk
Jubilee Sailing Trust – www.jst.org.uk
Aviation:
Food and Drink: Please Don’t Tell – www.pdtnyc.com Manifesto – www.theriegerkc/manifesto Harold Black – www.haroldblackdc.com Untitled – www.untitledsupperclub.com Armand de Brignac – www.armanddebrignac.com Chilgrove Gin – www.chilgrovespirits.com The Social Vigneron – www.socialvignerons.com Cipriani Restaurants – www.cipriani.com Il Pontile Bar – www.caladivolpe.com/en/pontile-bar Le Baoli – www.lebaoli.com La Chèvre D’Or – www.chevredor.com Alain Ducasse – www.alainducasse-dorchester.com Joel Robuchon – www.joelrobuchon.co.uk
Jewellery:
Beauty and Fragnance: Besame cosmetic – www.besamecosmetics.eu Yes-Sir – www.yes-sir.com
Interior Design: Foglizzo – www.foglizzo.com The French Bedroom Company – www.frenchbedroomcompany.co.uk Flower Studio Shop – www.flowerstudioshop.co.uk Out The Interiors – www.outthereinteriors.com My country Furniture – www.mycountryfurniture.com Home Direct 365 – www.homesdirect365.co.uk L’Objet – www.l-objet.com
Art and Culture: Greg Percival Sculpture – www.gregorypercival.co.uk Denise Finney – www.denisefinneyart.com James Purdey – www.purdey.com
Mario Uboldi – www.mariouboldi.com Bremont – www.bremont.com Jager le Coultre – www.jaeger-lecoultre.com Star Diamond – www.stardiamond.com Argyle Prima – www.argylepinkdiamonds.com.au 64
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unparalleled lifestyle - your exclusive 5-star residence Are you looking for that perfect personal refuge offering you the best of both worlds - classy cosmopolitan events surrounded by breath-taking nature? The Kulm Residences provide the highest comfort and lifestyle all year round in a magnificent setting, right in the heart of St. Moritz. Relax within your own private domain, enjoy a priviledged panoramic view and benefit from the 5-star hotel facilities and exclusive service. As tenants you have direct access to the Kulm Hotel, its five restaurants, the state-of-the-art Kulm Spa St. Moritz, the hotel‘s 9-hole golf course and exclusive tennis courts. Welcome to the Kulm Residences.
Kulm Hotel · 7500 St. Moritz
T +41 81 836 80 00 · info@kulm.com · www.kulm.com
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MKI
ANY R E SEM B L AN CE TO T H E DA SH BOAR D O F THE E-T YPE JAGUAR IS PURELY INTENTIONAL . Enzo Ferrari called it the most beautiful car in the world. Now two new watches pay homage to Malcolm Sayer’s ground-breaking design. The Bremont MKI and MKII have been developed in partnership with Jaguar. The dials are inspired by the E-Type’s tachometer and the winding weight is based on the car’s iconic steering wheel. You may never own the car, but the MKI and the MKII might just be the next best thing.