The world of Abu Dhabi Cuisine 2021 by adculinary

THE WORLD OF

ABU DHABI CUISINE 2021

Produced by Lonely Planet for

DMO Welcome

Hello and welcome to the amazing world of food! In a place like Abu Dhabi, where 200 different nationalities live, work, and travel, the wonder of diversity brings about a rich cultural and community dynamic. This is aptly reflected in the wide range of culinary offerings across the emirate.

DMO Welcome

Food delights our taste buds and fulfils our appetites, but more than that, every meal tells an incredible story of culture, history, and humanity. Across history, people have used food to connect with each other, commemorate important experiences, and express love, generosity, and hospitality. Here in Abu Dhabi, we know and understand the power that food holds in every community, and we make sure we can always serve the best and most authentic food from every part of the world to our visitors and residents. Whatever food you might be craving, we have it in Abu Dhabi. And to make your search for your next meal easier, we have worked alongside Lonely Planet to curate the best culinary experiences across Abu Dhabi in one comprehensive guide that we hope will lead you to the perfect meal. From street food, to quick bites, to extravagant five-star meals, this guide includes delicious dining options for every budget, taste, and mood. Thank you for visiting and enjoy your meals! H.E. Ali Al Shaiba Executive Director of Tourism and Marketing, The Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi (DCT Abu Dhabi)

THE WORLD OF

ABU DHABI CUISINE Buddha-Bar Beach Dish: Lobster Dumpling

THE WORLD OF ABU DHABI CUISINE

CONTENTS FINE DINING

HIDDEN GEMS

EMIRATI CUISINE 6 CONTENTS

Meet the Chefs

10-15

Fine Dining Locations

16-19

Abu Dhabi’s best-kept secret restaurants

20-23

Hidden Gems Locations

24-27

Emirati cuisine at a crossroad

28-29

Emirati Cuisine Locations

30-31

COFFEE SHOPS

Crafting a coffee revolution

32-35

Coffee Shop Locations

36-39

INDULGE

How to indulge like a local in Abu Dhabi

40-41

Pastries/Desserts Locations

Drinking & Nightlife Locations

43-45

Shopping Locations

46-47

Eating in Abu Dhabi – Customs

NEED TO KNOW

CONTENTS 7

FINE DINING International star chefs have made Abu Dhabi one of the world’s major destinations for dining in style

Zuma Dish: Rib eye

Tom Aikens Oak Room | Alba | Market

Tom Aikens is a seasoned professional chef and cookbook writer with restaurant concepts all over the world. His three in Abu Dhabi include the British rock’n’roll steakhouse Oak Room, Mediterranean-style Alba, and healthy eating/ healthy living-inspired Market. All three are found in a stunning luxury waterfront hotel – Abu Dhabi EDITION. With restaurants in multiple countries, you have a unique perspective – how do you see the food scene in Abu Dhabi contributing to the global conversation about food? Abu Dhabi provides a mature, cultured and refined approach to dining. In Abu Dhabi I’ve enjoyed eating at places such as Tasha’s, as well as Butcher & Still. After opening restaurants in the UK and Hong Kong why did you choose Abu Dhabi to launch your concepts here? The Edition is an amazing hotel group and a leader of hotel hospitality in service and food, so it was this – plus the opportunity to collaborate with them in Abu Dhabi – which attracted me. I was able to be creative and produce three very different restaurant concepts under one roof which was exciting. I liked the fact that Abu Dhabi is still developing and expanding within the restaurant scene so it’s great to be part of that journey. 10 FINE DINING | Meet the Chef

How do your ideas of ‘locally sourced’ and ‘sustainably grown’ change from country to country? How do you bring that idea to your menu lineup here in Abu Dhabi? There are different hurdles with sourcing produce depending on where you are and what is physically available, so you have to learn to adapt how you approach a new menu. I do a thorough study of the produce available by trying the restaurants in the area and asking chefs who have been working there about which suppliers they use and what they recommend in terms of local ingredients. Of course, the quality of the produce as well as the food cost play an essential part in the elaboration of new menus as I source my ingredients. How did opening restaurants in Abu Dhabi allow you to grow as a chef and restauranteur? Expanding abroad is a lot of fun as you get to discover a new environment, new produce, new tastes, cooking techniques and of course meet new chefs which are all very good inputs to my cooking style. I would hope that we are setting some new trends in all the different offerings that we have made in each of the outlets. They all vary, with new and exciting food and different flavour and taste combinations. I love to change it up, constantly learn, grow and hope to keep on inventing and pushing myself whilst trying new concepts as I then learn and discover more plus our guests get the benefit of yummy, delicious food. |

Meet the Chef | FINE DINING 11

Faisal Naser Lento

Chef Faisal Naser recently opened the artisanal fast-food concept Lento. After studying genetics at the University of Leeds in England, Naser went on to study at Ashburton culinary school and work in restaurants throughout Europe to earn his place among the top chefs.

It is well known that Lento is a success in Abu Dhabi. What is the secret behind that? I am surprised, to be honest, as we didn’t have the best marketing and branding plan. However, I can only guess the initial success was due to long anticipation. For seven years I was using social media and blogs to push recipes that were all about food cooked from scratch in lengthy processes, during a time when everything labelled ‘quick and easy’ is preferred. So, people wanted to finally try the food of the man behind that message and at Lento we do exactly that. We bake our own buns using sourdough starter and we make most of our sauces and pickles all from scratch, using the freshest ingredients prepared day to day. 12 FINE DINING | Meet the Chef

Why did you choose to add artisanal fast food to the Abu Dhabi culinary scene? I am definitely quality over quantity and therefore artisanal over commercial. I believe that the best flavours come from slow preparations. Aged cheese and meat, fermented pickles, slow-cooked stocks and meat, sourdough bread, for example. The best balsamic is aged over 20 years. In my cooking I make sure there is always a slow element or slow condiment in everything I cook – black garlic, aged cheese, special homemade vinegar etc. At Lento I use the same concept in the fast-food frame. The menu and food look simple but there’s a lot going on in each item. The menu at Lento is both simple yet incredibly diverse – that’s quite an accomplishment. What do you draw on as a chef to be so exacting and also creative? The menu is small with the idea to make fewer items executed perfectly, rather than having a big menu with a best seller. At Lento we will continue to provide off-menu items, weekly specials, as well as pop-up dinners. That way myself and my team keep enjoying the kitchen and have healthy creativity.

I was born in Kuwait and grew up there. I started cooking my mother’s recipes at a young age, and following my move to the UAE, I was exposed to slightly different food and ideas. I do post a lot of Italian cooking and recipes on my page because I believe the ingredients are widely available for people here, they are often simple, and my audience is readily willing to try them. |

Photos provided by Lento

You’re half-Emirati and half-Kuwaiti – can you tell us about how you came to love posting so much info on Italian cuisine to your social media?

Meet the Chef | FINE DINING 13

Photo courtesy of Fa’e

Khaled Al Saadi Fa’e Café

An Emirati chef and co-founder of Fa’e Café, Chef Khaled Al Saadi chose a culinary career after discovering that he could cook amazing food that was clean and healthy as well. He focuses on elevating traditional Emirati cuisine using refined and perfected cooking techniques. How are you reimagining Emirati food for a global audience? I’m demonstrating appropriate cooking and execution to the ingredients used in each dish. Emirati cooking is mostly rustic and done in a home-style approach as opposed to ways where each ingredient shines individually. You love crafting dishes out of personal memories. What’s an example? I grew up in a large family that made big feasts and I have had the pleasure of being exposed to a variety of dishes. At my most recent event I re-created a dish that used to be a very messy one-pot recipe (Thareed) into a refined version that, I believe, was well received by the luxury French brand I had partnered with. What is it about Abu Dhabi that allows you the space to feature such a diverse menu? I’m lucky enough to work with an incredibly supportive partner, so I’ve been able to experiment with many new recipes during our first year of operations. Between the opening days early in 2020 and now, our menu has changed several times and that was strictly because we have a diverse market and an everchanging demographic of guests… and also because we can. How do you balance a health-conscious 14 FINE DINING | Meet the Chef

approach with indulgent food? I still try to keep our dishes as clean as possible, with minimal grease and elevated cooking techniques. I have had my fair share of healthy meals and I found that they were rarely encouraging enough for me to dine-out for. We have decided to make tasty comfort food that you would crave, while not feeling so guilty afterwards. How does being from Abu Dhabi influence your experience and mission here? Being an Emirati, I do find myself privileged in that I have my community’s support. My stamp would be to encourage people to expand their knowledge on what is actually ‘good’ and what’s not. It is not a matter of opinion as much as it is shedding light on certain ways of living that we were accustomed to with disregard to the cycle and agricultural process that went into the food we consumed as end users. I hope to be an element of culinary progress that can elevate our taste in food and cooking techniques. Trends you’re noticing in Abu Dhabi? The Instagram effect. I’ve noticed that if a restaurant does not have an exciting tableside service or another interactive element to its experience, it will not have the upper hand. Personally, I think this is good as it keeps chefs on their creative edge. |

Balveer Balkissoon Fouquet’s Abu Dhabi

Chef Balveer Balkissoon hails from the Republic of Mauritius and has travelled the world sampling food and learning the techniques behind different cuisines. He draws inspiration from places as different and far-flung as Switzerland and India. After overseeing the Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel & Resorts restaurant offerings, he joined the Barríere Group to head up Fouquet’s Abu Dhabi. You are from a family of restauranteurs from the Republic of Mauritius. What brought you to Abu Dhabi?

Is there a flair you’ve brought to Fouquet’s Abu Dhabi that culinary aficionados wouldn’t find in Paris?

The eagerness to broaden my culinary knowledge greatly encouraged me to move to Abu Dhabi where you can find multiple types of cuisines in one city.

Fouquet’s is a favourite dining spot for Arabic guests, so we have introduced a fusion of Middle Eastern spices to certain dishes on the menu to give them the opportunity to enjoy a French-Arabic flavour.

As a Chef who has travelled the world learning about and tasting cuisines, what do you enjoy most about the food scene in Abu Dhabi?

Fouquet’s Abu Dhabi is in the Louvre Abu Dhabi. What influence do you take from the art around you?

Abu Dhabi is the place to be if you are a passionate foodie looking to sample different cuisines. Over the years, Abu Dhabi’s dining options have grown significantly, giving food lovers amazing options that cater to various taste and flavours.

The museum has inspired us to remain classic and authentic in our menus.

How do your many global experiences continue to influence you as a chef?

It is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to be part of this prestigious and unique brand and it gives me great pleasure and honour to represent Fouquet’s in the Middle East. |

Knowledge never fades away and this applies to my culinary knowledge of the different cuisines that I have learned though my global journey. This allows me to understand better and cater confidently to different nationalities, recreating authentic dishes.

Fouquet’s Paris is a Michelin-awarded restaurant. What does it mean for you to represent this brand in the Middle East?

Meet the Chef | FINE DINING 15

Martabaan Dish: Dum ki sunehari nalli

Fine Dining

Multicultural Abu Dhabi offers world-class food experiences from across the world

Alba Terrace at The Abu Dhabi Edition

Coastal Mediterranean-style restaurant that transcends day-to-night. Offering the finest handcrafted beverages, light lunches and sharing plates to linger over whilst bathing in the natural sunlight that streams into the space. 7am-11pm daily (+971 2 208 0000) Al Bateen Marina

Coya

Peruvian cuisine combines influences from Japanese, Chinese and Spanish cultures for an utterly unique taste sensation. Coya serves these tastes while a resident DJ entertains you throughout the night. Noon-1am Sun-Wed | Noon-2am Thu 12:30pm-2am Fri | 12:30pm-12:30am Sat (+971 2 306 7000) Four Seasons Hotel, The Galleria Al Maryah Island

16 FINE DINING | Locations

Cafe Milano

At this sister restaurant to the award-winning, elite Washington D.C. restaurant of the same name, Chef Franco Nuschese brings his signature Milanese menu and boutique-like atmosphere to the Four Seasons at Al Maryah Island. Noon-midnight daily (+971 2 333 2444) Galleria Level 1, Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island

Cipriani Yas Island

The menu may be a choice of Italian (including a lot of signature dishes from world-famous Harry’s Bar in Venice) or Asian-fusion but the view is distinctly Emirates. The terrace looks out over the grandstands of the Yas Marina Circuit, designer yachts moored alongside, and the Yas Hotel, with its mantle of amethyst and diamond lights. 6pm-midnight (+971 02 657 5400) Yas Marina

Fishmarket

Made-to-order, Thai-style seafood is on the menu at the Intercontinental Abu Dhabi’s award-winning eatery. You can’t get fresher fish and prawns than this beachside setting, with a relaxed and familyfriendly vibe, and flawless service. The restaurant surrounds a massive display of the catch of the day, where dozens of multicoloured delicacies are artfully arranged on a bed of ice. Noon-11pm (800 423 463 or 050 125 9881) King Abdullah bin Abdul Aziz Al Saud Street

Marco’s New York Italian

Chef Marco Pierre White brings an eclectic mix of favourites to his New York-esque Italian eatery. The menu is always fresh and simple with Italian-inspired dishes and American classics from sharing platters and seafood to succulent steaks. L: noon-4pm | D: 7pm-11pm (+971 2 654 3333) Khor Al Maqta

Mare Mare

Delivering Italian coastal flavours on an open-air terrace overlooking the sea, Chef Simone Federici has a customer-centric philosophy wanting to provide exactly what his diners want to see on their plates. Noon-11pm Sat-Wed | Noon-midnight Thu & Fri (971 2 811 4444) Poolside, Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort

Villa Toscana

A seasonal menu enables Chef Rosario Martorana to utilize produce at its peak, so dishes preserve their ultimate aroma and flavour. Together with imported cheese, prosciutto and salamis, the tastes of Tuscany, Ubria and Emilia-Romagna shine. L: noon-3pm | D: 7pm-11pm (+971 2 694 4553) The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, Nation Towers, Corniche

Fouquet’s

Following in the gastronomic footsteps of the original Fouquet’s in Paris, French Michelin star- winning chef Pierre Gagnaire designed a menu that champions the traditions of classic French cooking while embracing contemporary international and traditional Emirati-inspired cuisine. Noon-midnight Sun-Wed | Noon-1am Thu & Fri (+971 2 205 4200) Louvre Abu Dhabi, Saadiyat Cultural District, Saadiyat Island

Coya Dish: Baos de Res

LPM

Cuisine Niçoise, with origins in old Genoese cooking, inspires a menu filled with sun-soaked artichokes, courgettes, lemons, olives, tomatoes, peppers and girolles paired with seafood, meat and fresh pasta for French Mediterranean flavours that are light and varied. Noon-11pm Sun-Wed | Noon-11:30 Thu 12:30pm-11:30pm Fri | 12:30pm-11pm Sat (+971 2 692 9600) The Galleria, Al Maryah Island

La Salle

Striking interiors and a shimmering view of Saadiyat Beach lend to the multi-sensory showcase that is a highlight of La Salle. The Provençal cuisine is full of the vibrant colours and rich textures of coastal France. 5pm-1am daily (+971 2 656 3535) Saadiyat Beach Club, Saadiyat Island

Mazi

Reviving the Greek tradition of sharing, each dish is meant to be enjoyed by the whole table and served at the moment it is ready. The flavours are unexpected and contemporary while remaining true to Greek tastes.

4pm-midnight Sun-Thu | Noon-midnight Fri & Sat (+971 2 498 8888) St Regis Saadiyat Island Resort

Oak Room

Thoughtful and precise, this quintessential and modern steakhouse is serving the very best of everything. Theatre is not saved for the kitchen here, as the glass-fronted butchLocations | FINE DINING 17

ery is constantly on show for the diners.

6pm-11pm Tue-Fri | 12pm-5pm Fri brunch (+971 2 208 0000) The Abu Dhabi Edition, Al Bateen Marina

Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill

Award-winning celebrity chef Marco Pierre White channelled his culinary expertise to design a menu that is an eclectic combination of innovative grill cuisine and classic English fare accompanied by an extensive wine selection. 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat (+971 2 654 3238) Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Khor Al Maqta

Nusr-Et

With many options for meat-lovers, Nusr-Et brings an extra flair to the steakhouse culture while continuing to offer rich dishes, warm atmosphere and top-notch service. Noon-midnight daily (+971 2 679 9949) The Galleria at Four Seasons

TEAN

Immerse yourself in Middle Eastern flavours with modern edge and beautiful presentation. Grilled spiced meats and seafood dishes are cooked the traditional Levantine way and served seaside.

Noon-11:30pm Mon-Thu | 8am-midnight Fri & Sat (+971 2 811 4321) Beachside at Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island Resort

Catch

This award-winning eatery will impress any discerning seafood connoisseurs with a menu of contemporary and Occidental cuisine, the highlights of which are Caviar sturgeons, oysters, sushi and crab. Noon-midnight daily (+971 2 694 4553) Nation Riviera Beach Club, Corniche Road, Al Khubeirah, Opp Nation Towers

Benjarong

Serving recipes from Thailand that have been passed down through generations, this opulent restaurant prides itself on its thoughtfulness, intricacy and presentation of each dish. L: 12:30pm-3pm Sat – Thu | D: 7pm-11:30pm daily (+971 2 698 8137) Dusit Thani, Al Muroor Road

18 FINE DINING | Locations

Sontoya

Set amongst a series of floating pavilions that look out onto the beach and across the Arabian Gulf, the perfect ambiance accentuates Sontoya’s flavourful Thai fare and cheerful signature cocktails. 6pm-midnight daily (+971 2 498 8088) St Regis Saadiyat Island Resort

99 Sushi Bar & Restaurant

With refinement and exclusiveness, the chefs at 99 Sushi bring respect for the product as well as precise technique to each dish. This Four Seasons offering is a must for lovers of Japanese cuisine. L: 12pm-3:30 | D: 7pm-11:30pm Sun-Wed 7pm-12:30am Thu | 8pm-12:30am Fri (+971 2 672 3333) The Galleria at Four Seasons

Aja Asian & Teppanyaki

The energetic Teppanyaki station, sushi bar and live music make for an entertaining and unforgettable evening. 7pm-10:30pm Mon-Sat (+971 2 492 2222) Rixos Saadiyat, Saadiyat Island

Zuma

Enjoy a twist on traditional Japanese dining straight from the robata grill accompanied by a beautiful waterfront view. L: 12pm-4pm Sun-Sat D: 7pm-1am Sat-Wed | 7pm-2am Thu & Fri (+971 2 333 2222) The Galleria at Four Seasons, Al Maryah Island

Hakkasan

World-renowned Michelin star restaurant offering a unique take on modern Chinese cuisine. Hakkasan has instant glamour, opulent design, ambitious cooking and excellent service. L: 12pm-3:30pm Fri | D: 6pm-11:30pm Mon-Sat (+971 2 690 7739) Emirates Palace, Corniche Rd

Tori No Su

Chef Ando Takeshi applies decades of mastery and skill to bring a menu that is at once bold and emphatic yet also delicate and refined. The subtleties of Japanese cuisine are on full display in Tori No Su’s atmospheric lounge. 7pm-11pm Wed-Sun (+971 2 811 5666) Conrad Etihad Towers

Dai Pai Dong

Inspired by the street food movement, the menu showcases interpretations of classic Chinese dishes, specifically Cantonese cuisine. noon-11pm Sat-Wed | noon-midnight Thu & Fri (+971 2 813 5588) Rosewood Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island

Li Jiang

The open kitchen provides endless entertainment while chefs create classic and contemporary Chinese and Southeast Asian dishes. Or choose a sumptuous outdoor banquette that overlooks the Grand Mosque from which to enjoy dim sum, wok-fried meats or handmade noodles. 5pm-11pm daily (+971 2 818 8282) Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Khor Al Maqta’a

Martabaan by Hemant Oberoi

Celebrated master chef Hemant Oberoi brings an innovative approach to Indian cuisine. Deeply embedded in cultural traditions, Chef Oberoi’s creative recipes have revolutionized the Indian culinary world. 1pm-11pm Wed-Sat (+971 2 690 7999) Emirates Palace, Corniche Rd

Namak

Indian cuisine peppered with global influences, Namak celebrates the flavours of South Asia paired with bold plating, unique combinations and cooking techniques from around the world.

L: 12:30pm-3pm Sat-Thu | D: 7pm-11:30pm daily (+971 2 698 8137) Dusit Thani, Al Muroor Road

Butcher & Still

Inspired by a 1920s Chicago steakhouse, Butcher & Still flies in prime-cut steaks from selected farms in the USA and serves them with an array of side dishes, exclusive sauces and homemade bread. 6pm-midnight daily (+971 2 333 2222) The Galleria Four Seasons, Al Maryah Island

The Forge

Named for the intricate process of forging a steak knife blade, The Forge is a signature steakhouse restaurant that serves speciality cuisine paired with craft cocktails and an extensive wine list. 6pm-11pm Sun-Fri (+971 2 818 8282) Ritz Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal

Buddha-Bar Beach at the St Regis Saadiyat

Exotic food, over-the-top interiors and trademark music is packaged into an unforgettable experience. Day offerings include Mediterranean fusion dishes while the evening hosts renowned DJs and cocktails. 5pm-12am Wed | Noon-midnight Thu & Sat 1pm-4pm & 7pm-12am Fri (+971 2 498 8888) St Regis Saadiyat Island Resort

Butcher & Still

Locations | FINE DINING 19

Pasha Turkish Restaurant Dish: Mixed Grill

Abu Dhabi’s best-kept secret restaurants While Abu Dhabi showcases countless marquee names and headlining dining adventures, some say the true mark of a world-class food city is the wealth of low-key hidden gems a wandering diner can discover throughout their stay. Thankfully, there are countless small restaurants and shops around Abu Dhabi catering to residents and tourists of all types that serve inspired food and that is also often budget friendly.

BEST-KEPT SECRETS 21

On that note, adventurous connoisseurs in Abu Dhabi will find plenty to occupy themselves with. Ubiquitous karak (tea) and manakeesh (flatbread topped with thyme, cheese or ground meat) spots and specialty spice, dates and honey shops offer traditional Arabic experiences. Other experiences represent the diversity of Abu Dhabi’s residents. So, dig into the capital’s backstreets to sample specialties that cater to most of the city’s inhabitants. The hidden gems that dot Abu Dhabi’s streets offer dirham- and waistband-stretching sustenance you will be glad you discovered.

The Madinat Zayed Mall is on few tourist maps, but this shopping mall’s food court offers a world of cuisines, particularly from Southeast Asia, that would make many cities envious. On this second-floor food court, you have your pick of some of the city’s finest — and cheapest — Indian food in one place. Southern Indian seafood dishes like local hamour fish curry with a Kerala paratha burst from Calicut Notebook’s kitchen. Vasanta Bhavan boasts delectable breakfast options like steaming ghee and masala dosas topped with sinfully strong sambars and chutneys.

The best way to eat around a new town and not miss a thing is to map it out. Here are a few neighbourhoods to keep in mind when plotting your culinary crawl.

Those who venture just beyond the mall will stumble across such diverse selections as incredible Sri Lankan food (Paprika’s spicy chicken curry and Ceylon fish biryani) and fantastic Jamaican jerk chicken at West to West (along with a mean Caribbean goat curry and plantains).

Downtown If you’re staying downtown, you’re in luck – there’s a world of cuisine to explore. Plucky diners should start in Al Markaziyah. You’ll find everything there from singular Indian subcontinent cuisine and Nepalese momos (meat and veg-filled Nepalese dumplings) to a Jamaican jerk chicken that will leave you feeling ‘irie.’

West to West Kitchen

Dish: Chicken Groundnut Stew

22 BEST-KEPT SECRETS

Meanwhile, budget seekers can find some true treasures at Nepal Palace, where you can dive into a mammoth platter of momos, served with different dipping sauces.

Waterfront finds Orient yourself toward Mina Port via Mina Street and Corniche and you’ll uncover some key experiences in this incredibly picturesque stretch of the city. If you want to splash out a little on an exquisite Middle Eastern experience, Al Mayass in the Sheraton is cherished for its old-school charm and sparkling water views. It serves LebaneseArmenian fusion cuisine, with standout mezze: hummus with pine nuts, garlicky batata harra, and grilled halloumi. For a very different foray into Middle Eastern cuisine, try the nearby Al Dhafra located along Mina Street next to the Abu Dhabi Youth Hub. With its proximity to the port, it’s got the skinny on the freshest catch of the day. Its outdoor area is popular with locals for shisha and Arabic late-night snacks, such as karak tea, manakeesh and saj.

Dig into the capital’s backstreets to sample specialties that cater to most of the city’s inhabitants. If you find yourself near Mina Port in the daytime, poke around the fruit & vegetable souks. The vendors are friendly, and you will breathe in the local life while learning a lot about local produce. Al Zahiyah A short walk east from the port is the Al Zahiyah part of town, which is also known to residents as the ‘Tourist Club Area’. That phrase might not scream ‘hidden gems’, but eagle-eyed explorers will encounter a great spread of no-fuss international food here.

Al Dhafra Dish: Seafood Platter

The whiz-bang neon facade of Khyber Darbar isn’t too hard to spot – head inside for the best Afghani pulao (rice) and chapli kebabs (flattened beef patties) in the city. Nearby, you’ll find some unforgettable dining at Sheger. Here you’ll find big gebatas (large circular communal platters) full of Ethiopian injera (fermented sour flatbread) and great scoops of stews, curries and vegetables. With its hands-first approach, Ethiopian may be the epitome of informal group dining, though it makes no sacrifice on flavour. Finally, try nearby Bandung, a cozy brick Indonesian dining room offering a huge variety of everything from humble nasi goreng (Indonesian fried rice) to chicken satay and spicy beef rendang (coconut beef stew). BEST-KEPT SECRETS 23

Golden Spoon Dish: Vegetable Akbari

Hidden Gems

Low-key specialties from cheap biryanis to eat-on-the-go shawarma

Al Dhafra

Al Dhafra brings in fresh seafood from the port daily. Diners can create their own seafood platter by choosing fresh fish or crustaceans from the display. The calamari and whole fish are standout dishes. Noon-11pm (+971 2 673 2200) Corniche St, Mina Port

dishes, using ingredients and raw materials from Sudan. The must-try shaya jamour is charcoal-grilled lamb marinated, spiced and served in a traditional Sudanese pot. 10am-11pm daily (+971 52 821 8316) Al Wahda

Aquarium

For the best Syrian food in Abu Dhabi try Al Liwan. The hummus with meat is served with homemade bread, the perfect vessel for the savoury meat atop creamy hummus while the grilled eggplant fatteh with meat and nuts makes for a delicious bite.

With extra-large aquariums gracing the interior of this casual-dining restaurant, there’s no doubting its speciality. Outdoor terrace tables are coveted at night for views over the marina to the curvacious swoop of the Yas Hotel’s roof. Either choose your fish and the way you’d like it cooked or pick a paella, pasta or sushi sharing platter from the globe-trotting menu.

Al Mufraka

Aroy Dee

Al Liwan

8:30am-11:30pm daily (+971 2 622 9441) Golden Beach Tower, Corniche

Sudanese chefs cook traditional Sudanese 24 HIDDEN GEMS | Locations

(+971 02 565 0007) Noon-1 am Sat-Wed, to 2 am Thu & Fri Yas Marina

Chef and owner Fatima, raised in the Ratch-

aburi Floating Market in Thailand, settled in Abu Dhabi where she’s been perfecting her favourite dishes. Start with the bold and perky Tom Yum followed by the green curry, with its first burst of heat soothed by the creamy coconut milk. 11am-11pm daily (+971 2 666 5461) Electra St., Al Danah

Bandung

This Indonesian gem is busy, full of flavour, fun and great food. We suggest the creamy and bold beef rendang accompanied by the nasi goreng special (fried rice with meat, chicken and egg). 11am-midnight daily (+971 2 645 2008) Al Zahiyah

Bosnian Hut

Abu Dhabi’s first Bosnian restaurant does not disappoint. It serves up classic dishes from the Baltics amidst a quaint interior. The cheese pita is a flaky, crispy pita pastry stuffed with soft, creamy and slightly salty cheese while the traditional kebab is wonderfully seasoned. 1pm-11:30pm daily (+971 2 566 6215) 933 Hazaa Bin Zayed St., near Burjeel

Bliss Tea

Bliss Tea is your go-to for bubble everything – from tea to waffles. And you can’t miss the gelato. The tea is the signature drink and a must-try, but the tiger sugar gelato is truly delectable and just gets better as you eat. 12pm-12am daily (+971 56 655 6789) Airport Rd.

Boti Street

From the minute you walk into Boti Street you’ll be overwhelmed by the fabulous Pakistani truck art, making you feel at home wherever you’re from. Share the BBQ Platter with its range of seekh kebabs, chicken bihari and fish. 8am-midnight daily (+971 2 621 3383) Lulu Street

Golden Spoon

This family-run Indian vegetarian restaurant has been a staple of the Abu Dhabi food scene since 1993. Our constant go-to is the rich and creamy vegetable abkari. This thick tomato-based curry is filled with vegetable kebabs and has just the right amount of spice. 8am-11:30pm daily (+971 2 633 7155) Madinat Zayed area

Bliss Tea Dish: Bubble waffles with ice-cream

Locations | HIDDEN GEMS 25

Kabul Afghanistan

Sit on the floor or at a table at this busy Afghani spot. Kabul does mantoo dumplings just right. Filled with lentils and meat and topped with a yoghurt sauce, these dumplings are light and flavourful. 5am-1am daily (+971 2 444 1889) Madinat Zayed area

Kitfo

Ethiopian favourites are prepared lovingly by owner and chef Mrs. Hanna and served to the beats of Ethiopian music. Share a kifto platter filled with delicacies, including kifto (minced raw meat, marinated in butter and spice blend). 10am-midnight daily (+971 2 678 0018) 3rd Street, Khalidiyah

Yamazaki Dish: Mochi

Mamak

This tiny Malaysian eatery is tucked in a food court and serves up perfect nasi lemak. The fried chicken is served with Malaysian coconut milk rice, sambal, boiled egg, fried crispy anchovies, toasted peanuts and cucumber with a drizzle of sweet chilli. Be sure to have each flavour on your spoon for an explosion of Malaysian flavours. 8am-1am daily (+971 2 563 1525) ADNOC food court, heading towards YA on the Saadiyat Highway

MLT

This Hudayriat-favorite food truck will blow a hole in your diet, with Instagram-worthy mashups of comfort food flavours from all over the world. Burgers, avocado toast, bao, and mac and cheese fill the menu, which also offers breakfast in the form of cheesy, scrambled-egg versions of its grilled cheese sandwiches and quesadillas. If you’re feeling decadent, the Naughty Marsha is a popular choice – it’s a croissant filled with Nutella and marshmallow. 6am-11pm (+971 56 666 5016) Al Hudayriat Island

Olé! España

Intimate yet buzzing, Chef Don Carlos takes pride in his secret blend of ingredients in the chicken paella. But for a true treat, try the 26 HIDDEN GEMS | Locations

bocadillo de calamari (calamari sandwich). 12pm-12am daily (+971 2 643 1162) Airport Rd

Pasha Turkish Restaurant

Masterful Turkish chefs are serving up favourites from their homeland like the signature mixed grill with an array of meats, including lamb chops, bayte chicken kabob, beef and chicken tikka surrounded by hummus, baba ganoush, mutabal and more. 9am-1am daily (+971 2 666 6601) Khalidiyah

Qian Zhou

Hot pot and Chinese barbecue are the standouts at this little café. Choose your broth’s spice level, add-ins and even create your own dipping sauce to make your hot pot exactly the way you like it. We’re particular fans of the hot and spicy crayfish – they are worth the effort. 12pm-12am daily (+971 2 674 5677) Al Markarziah, National Theatre

Qwaider Al Nabulsi

An institution in Abu Dhabi, Jordanian Qwaider al Nabulsi serves crave-worthy Arabic sweets.

Order the rosewater-drenched Kunafah in either orange or cheese – they are both divine. And the lenza (a coconut-based cheesy square) is shockingly good. But don’t leave without the basboussa, it’s the best we’ve tried.

8:30am-12:30pm daily (+971 2 650 6663) Al Ramlah St, off Muroor Rd or 16th Street, MBZ City

Falafel Sultan Dubai

A local favourite, this is where people get their falafel to take away. The shawarma has a special sauce that really sets it apart and the falafel are some of the best in the city. Also, worth a try is the mansaf (lamb cooked in goat’s milk yoghurt). 8am-9:30pm daily (+971 2 552 2400) MBZ City

Vansha Ghar

This two-story Nepalese spot has an extensive menu with a whole page for momos (dumplings). Whether steamed or fried, prepared in a tandoori style or on a sizzling platter, the momos are divine.

West to West Kitchen

A restaurant dedicated to food from Sierra Leon and the Caribbean, the carnival goat curry is marinated for over 24 hours in a blend of Jamaican spices creating an aromatic and succulent dish. And the deceptively simple awojoh binch will have everyone reaching for more. 12pm-9pm daily (+971 2 671 9119) Al Bzaymi St – Zone 1E11

Yalla Shay

This little takeaway eatery is bringing the best Pakistani street food to Abu Dhabi. Order the chapata fries battered, fried and coated in chilli spices – we promise you’ll want more. Also, a must-try is the Bun Kebab, a lentil and meat patty sandwiched with multiple sauces, onion, tomato and cucumber. 11am-midnight daily (+971 55 753 5004) Tourist Club area, behind KFC

6am-11:45pm daily (+971 2 644 0788) Zayed the First St., Al Markaziah

Yamazaki

People are just loving this brand-new Japanese bakery. The classic mochi is great, with an array of both traditional and more exotic flavours while the Japanese cheesecake is rich, but also light and full of flavour. 8am-midnight daily (+971 2 441 416) Defence Rd., Nahyan Camp

Qian Zhou Dish: Hot & Spicy Crayfish

Locations | HIDDEN GEMS 27

Emirati cuisine at a crossroad Emirati cuisine has its roots in Bedouin camps that dotted the nation. While staying true to those nomadic flavours, it has developed into the modern fare served across the country today. Over time, traditional Bedouin cuisine has become infused with spices and ingredients from neighbouring countries like Oman and Saudi Arabia and trading partners from India to Persia to Morocco.

Traditional Emirati food Emirati cuisine has long been dominated by meat. For millennia, Bedouin ancestors favoured camels, goats, mutton and fish caught along the Arabian Sea. These nomadic people journeyed across the desert for days, so meals incorporated complex carbohydrates to provide the travellers with energy for the arduous voyage. Early cultural cross-pollination led to most Emirati dishes being delicately flavoured with spices like turmeric, saffron, cardamom and cinnamon, highlighting the influence of trade with Indian merchants. Every Emirati home makes a unique mixture, or masala, with these spices, and thanks to that it’s rare for a home-cooked meal to ever taste the same as another.

topped with yogurt and tahini sauce, as well as parsley and pine nuts for extra flavour and crunch. Flatbread is universal, and the Middle East’s version, called manakeesh, is topped with za’atar seasoning, vegetables, labneh (yoghurt) or meat, cooked in a pizza oven. It’s fabulous for snacking on-the-go. Finally, when it’s time to indulge, regag can be thought of as a savoury Emirati crêpe. It’s a bit healthier than its European counterpart as it’s made from wheat flour. It’s usually topped with egg or cheese.

These days, a lot of modern Emirati food includes elements of many other cultures, resulting in fusion dishes that incorporate elements from cuisines around the world. Emirati restaurants today The history of traditional Emirati dishes is often on full display at restaurants specializing in local cuisine. Al Fanar Restaurant and Café recreates a Bedouin-style neighbourhood, complete with floor cushions and barasti booths. Choose outdoor seating if you can and enjoy traditional dishes sitting cross-legged on carpets and cushions. Other offerings focus on the personal nature of Emirati cuisine and feel more like a family home than a restaurant. Yadoo’s House, which loosely translates to ‘Grandmother’s House’ in Arabic, serves a vast array of options from grilled local fish to popular Emirati staples like harees (chicken soup) and machboos (layered and slow-cooked meat and spiced rice). Popular Emirati Dishes If you’re exploring the best of Abu Dhabi, grab a shawarma or falafel wrap to eat on the go. These consist of grilled chicken, lamb, beef or chickpea patties, chopped vegetables and mayonnaise or tahini rolled up in soft flatbread. Fattesh is a snack or side consisting of three-layers: bread soaked in stock, a middle layer made of chickpeas and stuffed eggplants and

The future of Emirati cuisine Young Emirati chefs, such as Chef Khaled Al Saadi of Fa’e Café are grateful for the abundance of ingredients and traditions that have arrived in the UAE. ‘The UAE is a young country’, says Al Saadi. ‘In the past we had to be creative with ingredients and have enjoyed the development of available food items in our stores. Our ancestors had to preserve seafood and make homemade cheese as this wasn’t readily available – we remain very close to our homemade traditions.’ To understand the future of Emirati food, Al Saadi adds, you need only look at this nation’s rapid rise. ‘In just 50 years, we’ve undergone so much change. The future of our country and our food scene is awe-inspiring. For younger chefs, like myself, with access to so many fresh and exciting ingredients, it’s our passion and maybe our mandate to create new dishes and traditions in our kitchens that will in years to come be considered “Emirati food.”’ EMIRATI CUISINE 29

Al Fanar

Emirati Cuisine

Traditional Gulf dishes have flavour profiles as bold as their chefs

Al Mina Fish Market

This large fish market bustles with traders selling row upon colourful row of the sea’s bounty from the ice bars. It’s busiest early in the day when wholesalers head here to buy up prawns, red snapper, blue-shelled crabs and pink Sultan Ibrahims. 7am-10pm (+971 50 155 3590) Dhow Harbour, Al Mina

Mezlai

Enjoy Emirati cuisine in an upmarket and airy Bedouin-tent-inspired atmosphere. The food is prepared from organic and locally sourced ingredients with favourites including medfoun (shoulder of lamb, cooked underground, wrapped in a banana leaf) and slow-cooked camel flavoured with rose water and served with raisins and cashews. 1pm-10:30pm daily (+971 2 690 7999) Corniche Rd, Emirates Place

30 EMIRATI CUISINE | Locations

Al Fanar

The outside may be kitschy, but this place is favoured by Emirati families, who come here for the mutton, seafood and chicken stews, jasheed (minced baby shark with onions and spices) and grilled seafood dishes spiced with tamarind and date syrup. 8:30am-10pm daily (+971 02 448 1144) Yas Mall, Yas Island

Meylas

Dive into Emirati flavours whether you’re here for a breakfast of chabab (cardamom-spiced pancakes) stuffed with caramelised onions and cheese or getting your fix of machboos (a casserole of meat or fish, rice and onions cooked in a spicy sauce). 9am-10:30pm daily (+971 02 444 8884) Al Muneera Island Beach Plaza, Al Raha Beach

Milas

Dark wood and neon announce that this is an Emirati restaurant for the 21st century. Classic Emirati plates of machboos (a casserole of meat or fish, rice and onions cooked in a spicy sauce) and deyay shiwa (chicken marinated in saffron yoghurt) are given contemporary makeovers. 9am-11:30pm daily (+971 2 558 0425) Khor Al Maqta

Najd Palace

An Emirati institution with outlets all over the UAE offering traditional Gulf and Arabian cuisine. Najd Palace is particularly celebrated for its flavourful and hearty mandi (specially spiced meat with rice). L: 9am-11am Sat-Thu | D: 12pm-11pm Sat-Thu 12:30pm-11pm Fri (+971 600 54 4546) Ministries Complex, next to the Ministry of Labour

(+971 2 666 3881) Old Airport Road

Yadoo’s House

The name translates to ‘Grandmother’s House’ and this restaurant lives up to it. It offers an elegant and museum-like setting to share delicious food with friends and family.

8am-11pm Sat-Thu | 8am-12pm and 1pm-11pm Fri (+971 2 441 1311) Al Murror St

Al Areesh

This local chain has made a name for itself by serving generous portions of delicious homestyle food. 9am-1am daily (+971 2 666 7292) Multiple locations

Lgymat and Rgag

For takeaway and delivery, this hole in the wall is serving up excellent harees, margooga and legemat at a budget-friendly cost. 6am-3am daily

Najd Palace Dish: Chicken Mandi

Locations | EMIRATI CUISINE 31

Blacksmith Coffee

Crafting a coffee revolution Coffee is more than just a morning brew in the Middle East; it’s a way of life, and its service is an act of generosity. The rich coffee traditions of the Middle East evolved long before Western coffee cultures, and the ancient traditions are not lost but celebrated every day.

COFFEE SHOPS 33

Abu Dhabi has an increasingly sophisticated coffee market that knows exactly how it likes its coffee and where it should be from. ‘Coffee brings people together’, says Maissa Al Qassimi, founder of Foodshed in the Khalifa Park neighbourhood. ‘Everything is done over a cup of coffee, from politics to business to friendly conversation. Here, all this can be done over an outstanding cup of coffee in a friendly atmosphere’. While coffee – or gahwa in the local parlance – plays that vital social role, there is also a complex and deeply entrenched coffee-drinking etiquette in the Middle East that is important to understand when you visit. For millennia, Arabian hospitality rules dictated hosts should offer coffee and dates to guests and even

Cafés are a complete package Abu Dhabi’s artisanal coffee culture has enjoyed an influx of international expats, leading to new coffee shop concepts from the US, Europe and Australia sprouting up everywhere. Traditional Arabic coffee culture still holds its own, but the popularity of Western-style cafés with their alternative brewing methods continues to rise.

The intricate service of coffee and dates is still the norm in UAE homes Young people love every aspect of speciality coffee, from the product and the experience to just hanging out in the shop with friends, so each café must stand out in the crowd and make itself somewhere people want to be. For example, Rain might be one of the most Instagrammed spots in the city. Guests love the bright and modern interior, as well as the selection of cakes that are well worth the visit.

Cartel Coffee Roaster

strangers upon their arrival from arduous desert journeys. Getting around is much easier today, but the intricate service of coffee and dates is still the norm in UAE homes. Knowledge of etiquette may ensure you a second cup. When you pay a visit, coffee will be served in small portions. Once you finish (and if you want more), tip your small cup with a slight shake back and forth. In the rare case your host does not offer you a refill, the message being delivered may be that it’s time to move on. 34 COFFEE SHOPS

Mirzam makes a name for itself by being artisanal in every way – from its chocolates and coffees to its handcrafted bespoke packaging created by a local artist. And located on one of downtown Abu Dhabi’s busiest thoroughfares, it’s the industrial ambience (its roaster is an integral part of the design) that makes Cartel Coffee Roaster unique. Then there’s Local. From the outside, it might look like just another über-hip cafe, but inside it’s also a trendy barber shop – with a highend sneaker and streetwear shop tucked in, too. Cool music complements your cuppa, making this spot a place to stay all day. Twenty-something co-founders Jackson, Jasim and Zayed explain, ‘Local is centred around culture and making sure we play our part to build and grow all aspects of the areas

we exist in. From high-quality coffee to sneakers and men’s grooming, everything we do is focused on growing communities and culture.’ Grounds for communion Love of coffee may be universal, but the UAE’s burgeoning coffee culture has next-level sophistication. ‘UAE customers know their coffee and know exactly what origin and what brewing technique will get them their desired dose’, says third-generation coffee roaster Ghassan Bagersh, the owner of Auro Premium Coffee, a roastery and café. Ghassan believes the UAE coffee market is the most sophisticated in the world right now. ‘UAE customers know the origins of the beans they like and want to know they’re ethically sourced’, he explains. ‘It’s a passion here, so café owners in Abu Dhabi must know more than their most knowledgeable customer to succeed’.

regularly so true coffee lovers can always come in to try new things.’ Ghassan takes a similar approach at Auro. ‘I take time with my customers. Because beyond the experience of drinking coffee, I feel people are after a communal experience, and at Auro, we’ve established a community of coffee lovers. My customers share a passion for coffee and the experience of partaking in it. It’s a tradition in the Middle East and in my native Ethiopia. It’s so much more than just a cup of coffee to us,’ he says. ‘Coffee in Abu Dhabi is centered around quality,’ says Local co-founder Jackson Brett. ‘The market here reflects (the customers’) knowledge and passion, but they also come for the community – so you have to offer both.’

At Echo Roastery & Café, owner Asma Al Suwaidi is adding even more to her customers’ depth of knowledge, making her café all about education. ‘We take our customers on a coffee journey so they can feel, smell and then taste it,’ she says. ‘We like to change our roasts and origins

Aptitude

That Shisha Life The tradition of shisha smoking, also known as hookah or hubble-bubble, originated hundreds of years ago in Persia and India with Abu Dhabi cafés now attracting mixed company. A typical shisha session lasts around an hour. While many establishments have shisha on offer, our favourites are the Hookah Lounge, Escape and Yacht Gourmet Restaurant if you’re interested in partaking.

Photo by ©food.kiro/Shutterstock

Wreaths of apple-scented smoke spiral above corner coffee houses while the low gurgle of water from a water pipe echoes softly through hot, humid Arabian evenings. Shisha cafés across the city play host to many of the local people most evenings.

COFFEE SHOPS 35

Elysium Dish: Nutella Croissant

Coffee Shops

To stand out in the crowd, cafes have mastered next-level sophistication

Joud Café

When ordering coffee, you’ll be asked what origin you’d like and whether you’d like it hot or standard warm. Serving some of the best coffee in town, its usually packed with young Emiratis. 8am-10pm daily (+971 56 525 8235) Al Khajeel Al Arabi & Hozaa bin Zayed the First Sts, Al Bateen

Art House Café

Connected to Etihad Modern Art Gallery, this artsy café is a colourful bohemian hangout with great coffee and excellent smoothies.

9am-11.30pm Sun-Thu | 10am-midnight Fri & Sat (+971 2 666 0175) Villa 15, Al Huwelat St, Al Bateen

Fifth Street Café

A popular lunch spot, this is a great bet for coffee and boasts a menu selection with 36 COFFEE SHOPS | Locations

something for everyone.

7am-11pm daily (+971 2 698 2255) Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed St, Courtyard by Marriot World Trade Center

Café 302

We love the cracking coffee, cooling milkshakes and good tea selection at this soothing café.

6am-10pm daily (971 2 610 6666) Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed St, Al Maha Arjaan Rotana Hotel

Navona Restaurant & Coffeeshop

Fantastic little spot to have a coffee after a morning slipping in and out of aisles of merchandise and watching life along the harbour. 9am-3am Sat-Thu | 11am-3am Fri (+971 2 644 0889) Area 5, Dhow Harbour, Al Mina

The Espresso Lab

The Espresso Lap strives to inspire coffee enthusiasts and the general public with their specialty coffee. This family-friendly coffee shop offers seasonal specialty coffee throughout the year. 7:30am-11pm daily (+971 55 100 0161) Qasr al-Hosn

DRVN

Specialty coffee and Neapolitan pizza are served amidst rare and exclusive classic cars. The all-day breakfast is truly exceptional, and the pizzas are a must-try. 8am-12am daily (+971 2 441 7774) Saif Ghobash St

Rain

Specialising in espresso and drip-brewed coffee in an environment inspired by rainy days. There is a children’s menu to make it particularly family friendly.

6:30am-11:30pm Sun-Wed | 8am-11:30pm Fri & Sat (+971 58 161 4461) Mohammed Bin Khalifa St., Al Nahyan

Blacksmith Coffee Company

Locally roasted coffee is served in a minimalistic space at this no-fuss café. Owned and operated by a group of former NYU Abu Dhabi students whose love of coffee brought them together. 7:15am-10pm Sun-Wed 9am-8pm Fri | 9am-9pm Sat (+971 2 650 1881) NYU Abu Dhabi, Saadiyat Island

No. Fifty Seven Boutique Café

From the chef and designers behind The Dinner Club by No. 57, this new café serves up fresh and local ingredients amidst a modern and sophisticated setting. 9am-10:45pm daily (+971 2 441 6100) Al Marasy, Al Bateen Harbour

Local

A coffee shop, barber shop and streetwear boutique combine in this urban, minimalist café. Local is passionate about supporting local suppliers and artists wherever possible. 7am-10pm daily (+971 2 555 3339) Al Zeina Complex

Cartel Coffee Roasters

Freshly roasted beans are brewed into an ample selection of espressos, cappuccinos and macchiatos served by baristas pouring the perfect cup and experimenting with latte design.

6:30am-10:30pm Sun-Thu | 8am-11pm Fri & Sat (+971 2 666 2002) Al Khalidiyah

Turf Café

Community-oriented café/bakery at the heart of Abu Dhabi. Coffee and menu items are inspired by daily experiences, travel adventures and the natural world. 8am-10pm daily (+971 2 626 0812) Al Khalidiyah

No. Fifty Seven Boutique Café Dish: Mexican Grilled Chicken

Locations | COFFEE SHOPS 37

Aptitude

One of Abu Dhabi’s first specialty coffee shops, Aptitude now has two locations brewing ethically sourced coffee beans from Panama, Columbia, Brazil and Ethiopia. 7am-11pm Sat-Thu | 10am-12am Fri (+971 50 988 5445) Al Nahyan & The Louvre

Elysium

This stunning café serves up coffee, food, desserts and flowers. 9am-12am daily (+971 2 585 7533) Shakhbout City

That Café

The design scheme at this pleasing café separates the space into zones, each with its own look and feel so you can visit That Café every day of the week and it will always be a different experience. 7:30am-11:30pm Sun-Wed | 7:30-12am Thu 8:30am-12am Fri | 8:30am-11:30pm Sat (+971 2 633 3316) Al Bateen

Sanderson’s

Seasonal ingredients are cooked from scratch daily for the sole purpose of transforming the customer’s mood. Sanderson’s prides itself on engineering recipes that highlight the benefits of each ingredient. 8am-8:30pm Sun-Wed | 8am-10pm Thu-Sat (+971 2 222 1142) Khalifa Park Area

1762

Industrial-chic meets comfy Victorian at this welcoming deli-café. The coffee is excellent, and the menu has a variety of sandwiches, salads and wraps with cool combos like zaatar chicken and halloumi toasties. 8am-6pm Sun-Thu | 9am-10pm Fri & Sat (+971 800 1762) Al Ain Tower

Du Roi

Sanderson’s

38 COFFEE SHOPS | Locations

A favourite meeting spot for Emiratis, this old-fashioned café deals in coffee and cake, as well as croissants and classic sandwiches. It’s a perfect spot to take a break if you’re wandering along the Corniche. 7am-midnight daily (+971 2 681 6151) Corniche Rd (West)

Colombiano Coffee House

Sitting in the café part of this establishment, beside the pond in comfortable armchairs, is a pleasant and sociable experience, especially on warm nights before the full heat of summer. Also, an enjoyable setting for a shisha session. 9am-2am daily (+971 2 633 7765) Corniche Rd (West) Urban Park

Le Café

Walk through the gold-edged central dome of the Emirates Palace for cappuccino sprinkled with 24-karat gold flakes or camelchino (espresso with camel’s milk). High tea here is an institution. 6:30am-1am daily | High tea 2pm-6pm (+971 2 690 7999) Corniche Rd (West) Emirates Palace

The Coffee Club

After visiting the Grand Mosque, this busy café inside the complex is the perfect pit-stop, serving up brunch and lunch plates of French toast, omelettes and sandwiches as well as frappes, iced coffees and hot drinks. 7:30am-10pm Sat-Thu | 12:30pm-10pm Fri (+971 2 552 1482) Northern entrance, Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque complex

Skinny Genie

Healthy vegan-friendly café offering homemade almond milk, avocado smoothies and green vegetable juices along with karak chai (spicy tea) and a caboodle of espressobased coffees. 9am-11pm Sat-Thu | 11am-11pm Fri (+971 2 555 5897) Masdar City

The Living Room Café

Family-friendly café beloved by expats. It has a neighbourhood feel with a kid’s corner and workspace. People love the home-baked cakes, all-day breakfasts, soups, salads and sandwiches. 7am-11pm Sun-Thu | 7:30am-11:30pm Fri & Sat (+971 2 639 6654) Khalifa Bin Shakhbout St, Khalidiya Village

The Espresso Lab

Locations | COFFEE SHOPS 39

How to indulge like a local in Abu Dhabi Lonely Planet Local Liz Totton has been living in Abu Dhabi for just shy of eight years. Foodies at heart, Liz and her family of four are always eating out when they are not enjoying the city beaches.

A typical weekend for us… involves an early-morning swim at either Saadiyat or Hudayriat Island, followed by a coffee and a bite to eat anywhere by the sea. Later we’ll take a leisurely bike ride along the Corniche, followed by a steaming manakeesh (flatbread topped with thyme, cheese or ground meat) somewhere along the way. Virtually every outdoor excursion we take is punctuated with a snacky pitstop. If you’d like to sample both Arabian hospitality and Emirati treats at the same time, many hotels serve Emirati donuts called luqaimat and Arabic coffee in their lobby to virtually anyone who pops in. For a sweet treat… When it comes time to indulge – in Abu Dhabi it’s always time for that – there’s no shortage of ways to treat yourself. I have two go-to’s. My first and favourite dessert is fittingly called ‘ermahgerd’ (toffee crumble, cream and roasted marshmallows) at The No. Fifty Seven Boutique Café in Al Marasy. The name derives from people’s delightful gasp when they first try it. When I crave chocolate, I head to Mirzam at Qasr Al Hosn. They make exceptional chocolate bars that are wrapped in artwork created by local artists. When I have friends in town… I always take them for a 24K gold palace cappuccino at Emirates Palace. The Instagram-worthy drink and over-the-top atmosphere is a truly unique experience.

Afterwards, I take them to Louvre Abu Dhabi. There are rarely crowds on weekdays. The architecture and the museum’s ‘universal theme’ are great conversation starters even for people who don’t consider themselves art aficionados. Then, we grab a coffee at Aptitude, which has amazing views of the museum and a divine Spanish latte. The best place to go for a romantic dinner is... anywhere by the sea – that’s part of why we live here, right? We like Buddha-Bar Beach at the St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort, for its lounge-like seating, live jazz, sundowners and sushi. Day or night, this is my favourite spot. When I want to get out of the city… I go to the Rub’ al Khali desert, aka the ‘Empty Quarter’. My favourite escape is to Qasr Al Sarab. It’s like a dreamy mirage hotel in the middle of the desert, but the hospitality and culinary offerings are strictly five-star, so you don’t have to sacrifice any luxuries to get out of the city and into the vastness of the desert. I know I’m an Abu Dhabian because… Abu Dhabi is the most peaceful and diverse place that I have ever lived. We’re all travellers at heart here and happy to share our history, food, culture and stories with you if you ask. Every Abu Dhabian becomes an intriguing fibre in the rich tapestry of life here, and the city is better for its diversity.

Dates Originally popularized on ancient desert travels, dried dates are a cherished traditional treat in Abu Dhabi to this day. There are more than 600 species of the fruit in Abu Dhabi, which are sold everywhere from the city's amazing coffee shops, to luxury date markets such as Bateel, to ‘Date Alley’ in the Al Mina Fruit and Vegetable Market. To eat a date the Emirati way, choose one half-ripe, biting the fruit lengthwise and savour the bitter zest with the mellow ripe part. INDULGE 41

Chocolate covered dates

Pastries/Desserts

Mirzam

The city’s best bakeries and confectionaries have plenty of decadent dishes

Mirzam

Chocolate expertly crafted from bean to bar wrapped in art produced by local artists. 10am-10pm daily (+971 2 555 2211) Qasr Al Hosn

Godiva Chocolate Café

Beautiful cakes, pastries and chocolate-dipped strawberries with an exceptional view of Abu Dhabi’s Al Zahiyah district from the wall of windows. 11am-10pm daily (+971 2 667 0717) Galleria Mall, Al Maryah Island

Arabica Booza

This sleek shop serves up Middle Eastern ice cream made from mastic (resin from the mastic tree) and sahlap (powdered orchid tubers) rhythmically beaten by staff wielding giant wooden pestles. The original flavour is the hero, topped with pistachios. 10am-10pm daily (+971 55 155 6295) World Trade Center Mall

Tawa Bakery

Strictly gluten-free, this hip bakery has decadent desserts (banoffee pie and pistachio eclairs) served with a beach view. noon-10pm (+921 2 800 8292) Al Muneera Island Beach Plaza, Al Raha Beach

42 PASTRIES/DESSERTS | Locations

Home Bakery

Exceedingly popular with Emiratis, this trendybakery café serves decadent cakes and tea inside Umm Al Emarat Park. 8am-midnight daily (+971 2 446 6511) Umm Al Emarat Park, Al Mushrif

Wafi Gourmet

With gorgeous marzipan, baklava and other Middle Eastern sweets as well as Medjool dates stuffed with pistachios, cashews, almonds or oranges, you can find any number of Arabian tastes to take home with you. 9am-midnight Mon-Sat | 8:30am-midnight Sun (+971 2 665 6077) Corniche Rd (West), Nation Galleria

Bateel Boutique

This food nirvana elevates the humble date to gourmet levels. Head straight to the decadent selection of dates stuffed with fillings of candied ginger or smothered in chocolate. 10am-10pm Sun-Wed | 10am-11pm Thu 3pm-11pm Fri (+971 2 635 4977) Khor Al Maqta, 1st floor, Souk Qaryat Al

Camel Cookies

Two branches serve up cookies with a local twist using flavours such as cardamom, pistachio, dates, saffron and Arabic coffee.

10am-10pm Sun-Wed | 10am-11pm Thu 3pm-11pm Fri (+971 600 544 541) Khor Al Maqta 1st floor, Souk Qaryat Al Beri or Yas Mall

MAD on Yas Island

Drinking & Nightlife Emiratis love big parties as much as laid-back outdoor shisha sessions

Hakkasan

Try signature cocktails like Pearl Sky (gin, rhubarb liqueur, yuzu, blackberry and lemon) or Sake Samurai (vodka, sake, mango, pineapple, cumin syrup and Prosecco) on Hakkasan’s bar terrace while soaking up the views overlooking the vast, manicured grounds of Emirates Palace. 3:30pm-1am daily (+971 2 690 7749) Corniche Rd (West)

Stratos

Quaff wine or a classic whiskey sour and watch the city slowly pass by at this revolving lounge. Booths of high-backed chairs all with window views fill the plush set-up. 5pm-late Sun-Fri (+971 2 696 0490) Khalifa Bin Zayed the First St, Le Royal Méridien Abu Dhabi

Ray’s Bar

For a prime perspective on Abu Dhabi’s audacious architectural vision, let the lift whisk you up to this 62nd-floor bar at Jumeirah at Etihad Towers, which is all about cocktails and mocktails and skyscraper views – arrive at sunset to be dazzled by the light bouncing off all the steel and glass. 5pm-2am daily (+971 2 811 5666) Corniche Rd (West)

Dragon’s Tooth

The coolest speakeasy-style bar in town seems to have fallen straight out of the 1920s. The cocktails are super creative – our favourite is the Black Panda with rum, amaretto, activated charcoal and blackberry and rosemary syrup. 6pm-1am Sat-Wed 6pm-2am Thu & Fri (+971 2 813 5588) Dai Pai Dong restaurant, Rosewood Hotel, Al Maryah Island

Hakkasan

Locations | DRINKING/NIGHTLIFE 43

Chameleon Terrace

In cooler months, this is the place to be. Cool cucumber mojitos, passion-fruit Collins, and kiwi gin and tonics are just some of the signature cocktails you can enjoy on this outdoor terrace with Grand Mosque views in the distance. 6pm-1am daily Nov-Apr (+971 2 634 3238) Khor Al Maqta, Fairmont Bab Al Bahr

Beach House Rooftop

Atmospheric music at just the right volume and low, emotive lighting set the tone, though it’s Mother Nature’s stunning sunsets and the gentle sound of waves lapping that really steal the show. 5pm-1am Mon-Sun (+971 2 407 1138) Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas

Mad on Yas Island

Dress up and hang with the beautiful people at one of Abu Dhabi’s top party haunts. Dance to R&B, hip-hop, house and grime at the UAE’s biggest indoor nightclub. 11pm-3:30am Thu & Fri (+971 55 834 6262) Leisure Dr. near Yas Tunnel

Iris Yas Island

Packed with trendy young things sipping signature cocktails. DJs spin different music depending on the night. From October to April the partying spills out onto the outdoor deck with the twinkling lights of the Yas Hotel across the water creating a suitably dramatic background.

Chameleon Terrace

44 DRINKING/NIGHTLIFE | Locations

6pm-3am daily (+971 55 160 5636) Yas Marina

SHISHA Hookah Lounge

Right on the water’s edge and beloved of locals, the shisha comes in a variety of sweet flavours like watermelon and grape. Tends to get busier from late afternoon into evening. 9am-1am Mon-Sat | 9am-midnight Sun (+971 02 666 1179) Breakwater Rd opposite Marina Mall

Escape

Located at the Radisson Blu Beach Club, this bar and shisha café is right on prime beachside real estate with outstanding skyline views. Also serves cocktails, beer, wine and light bites. 9am-1am daily (+971 02 692 4344) Marina Breakwater

Yacht Gourmet Restaurant

This simple café has a great outdoor terrace overlooking the marina for an evening of shisha and sipping karak chai. Also serves a variety of fruit juices, mocktails and hot drinks. 24hr (+971 02 222 2886) Marina Breakwater

Iris

Locations | DRINKING/NIGHTLIFE 45

Shopping

Middle Eastern craftwork and contemporary artisan stores riff on traditional designs

MALLS Yas Mall

Bright and spacious and hosting 370 shops, Yas Mall is the star of Abu Dhabi’s shopping scene. Admire the growing plant wall and the two 12m-high tree-themed sculptures by acclaimed South African artist Marco Cianfanelli, with leaves inspired by Arabic calligraphy.

10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-midnight Thu & Fri www.yasmall.ae Yas West

Galleria Mall

The curved glass roof shines like a diamond on the Abu Dhabi skyline, a hint at what lies inside. All of the most well-known luxury brands have a storefront at the Galleria. Go for the shopping and stay for the rooftop park and myriad other entertainment options. 10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-midnight Thu Noon-midnight Fri Al Falah Street, Al Maryah Island

46 SHOPPING | Locations

COMMUNITY MALLS Abu Dhabi Mall

Al Zahiyah’s major shopping destination features plenty of international brand-names among its 200 shops. Seek out local brands, such as Bateel for luxury dates and the Spirit of Dubai which blends the heady scents of the Gulf, oud (incense made from agarwood), frankincense, rose and bergamot, to create its luxury perfume range. 10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-11pm Thu & Fri 10th street

Marina Mall

In addition to its more than 400 stores, this popular mall has plenty of entertainment options, including the Marina Eye Ferris Wheel just outside. While there are bundles of international brands, local shopping includes perfumery Hind Al Oud and the quirky gift shop Scarabee. 10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-midnight Thu & Fri Marina Breakwater

Al Wahada Mall

A favourite family hangout on Thursday evenings, there is much to find here. In addition to the international brands, local offerings include Al Rifaki with an amazing Middle Eastern nuts selection, Magrudy’s (a local bookstore chain), and Nishat Linen, which is great for jalabiyas (traditional kaftans native to the Gulf) and other clothing that fuse south Asian and Arab styles. 10am-10pm Sun-Wed | 10am-11pm Thu-Sat Hazza bin Zayed the First St, Al Wahada

LOCAL EXPERIENCES Souk Qaryat Al Beri

With a waterfront location and appealing Middle Eastern architecture, this small 21st century take on a classic souq is filled with shops that offer items with roots in Arabia. There are also a couple of great art stores selling original, contemporary art and crafts. 10am-10pm Sun-Wed | 10am-11pm Thu 3pm-11pm Fri Khor Al Maqta

House of Artisans

One of the many attractions at the historic landmark and heritage site Qasr Al Hosn. The House of Artisans showcases the best of UAE traditional crafts, and hosts workshops and demonstrations by Emirati craftsmen.

Madinat Zayed Shopping & Gold Centre

For first-time visitors to a gold souq, the window displays are an attraction in their own right. It’s also known for being a place to shop for affordable pearls set in gold necklaces and rings. 9am-10:30pm Sun-Thu | 4pm-10:30 Fri www.madinatsayed-mall.com 4th st

Hind Al Oud

Luxury fragrances, oils, home scents and skin care using the heady scents of oud (incense made from agarwood), rose, jasmine and saffron. 10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-midnight Thu & Fri www.hindaloud.com Ground floor, Marina Mall

DEPARTMENT STORE Tryano

Located in Yas Mall, Tryano is an Emirati department store dedicated to not only bringing shoppers luxury international designers, but also local, luxury Emirati fashion and beauty brands.

10am-10pm Sat-Wed | 10am-midnight Thu & Fri Frist and ground floor of Yas Mall

9am-8pm daily Sheikh Zayed the First St

NAME Marina Mall

Locations | SHOPPING 47

Eating in Abu Dhabi – Customs There is no question this cultural capital is a great place to eat. But whether you’re looking to sample Middle Eastern mezze or Emirati delicacies, there are a few things you should know.

WHERE to eat WHAT to eat Here’s a quick primer to help you make your choices

WHEN to eat

Downtown, Marina Breakwater and Al Bateen are three of the best districts to sample regional Gulf and Middle Eastern fare. You’ll find cheap, cheerful mezze and kabab places, as well as traditional Emirati stews lifted to fine-dining level.

Baba ghanoush – smoked aubergine dip Tharid – lamb stew layered with flatbread Harees – a porridge-like stew made from cracked wheat and slow-cooked chicken or lamb Jesheed – minced baby shark with onions and spices Kibbeh – meat-filled cracked wheat croquettes Kunafeh – vermicelli-like pastry over a sweet-cheese base soaked in syrup Machboos – a casserole of meat or fish, rice and onions cooked in a spicy sauce Mandi – slow-roasted meat served with rice and chilli sauce Madfoun – shoulder of lamb, slow cooked in a banana leaf Shawarma – meat sliced off a spit and stuffed in a pocket of pita-type bread with chopped tomatoes and garnish Umm ali – dessert of filo pastry, butter, raisins and nuts baked in milk A much-loved city tradition is Friday brunch. This lavish buffet starts later than a traditional brunch at mid-afternoon and continues to late afternoon. Afternoon tea is another Abu Dhabi favourite, offering an affordable opportunity to enjoy a fine-dining environment. Dinner cruises set sail in the early evening, but most locals pile into the coffeehouses for light bites, coffee and shisha late into the night.

Eating Etiquette Here are some of the main things to think about when dining the traditional Arab way: »

It's polite to be seen washing hands before eating.

It’s rude to show the bottoms of your feet – so be careful when crossing legs.

Don't take the best parts of the meat – if you're a guest, your host will be sure to lavish them on you. Strictly use only your right hand (the left hand is reserved for ablutions) for eating or passing food.

Leave a little food on your plate to show you’re finished.

Feel free to pick your teeth after dinner.

Don't leave the meal before coffee is served…but don't stay for too long afterwards. Most of the chatting is done before dinner, less during and almost none after!

Abu Dhabi Culinary: The World of Abu Dhabi Cuisine 2021 Published March 2021 This guide was paid and controlled by Abu Dhabi Department of Culture and Tourism. It has been produced to reflect Lonely Planet’s high-quality storytelling, but it may not reflect our editorial views.

www.lonelyplanet.com

Abu Dhabi Department of Culture and Tourism https://tcaabudhabi.ae/en/default.aspx https://www.adculinaryseason.ae/ FB: @ADCulinarySeason IG: @AbuDhabiCulinary

This book was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Franklin, TN office and produced by the following: Sales Manager Jim Brody Account Manager Anne Zalatoris Creative Director Matt Parish Designer Mandi Cummings Contributing Editors Sarah Stocking, Ben Buckner Contributing Writer Liz Totton Proofreader Anna Hider For sales enquiries visit https://www.lonelyplanet.com/advertise

Photos courtesy of Abu Dhabi Department of Culture and Tourism except where noted. Front cover image: Kzenon / Shutterstock ©

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