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In Smuggler's Notch, Bridget Croke dances up ENT’s classic overhanging arête, Quickbeam

(5.11d). Photo by T. Peckham

GREAT CLIMBS10Beyond Bolton:

BREAK OFF THE BEATEN ROUTES AND EXPLORE SOME OF VERMONT’S LESSER-KNOWN CLIMBING DESTINATIONS.

St. Albans

2

5

89

Burlington

7 3 4

Stowe

Waterbury

Montpelier Barton

2

91

2

6

St. Johnsbury

Middlebury

7

9

89

8

Vershire

Rutland

10

White River Jct.

4

7

91

Ilearned to climb on the spraypainted urban granite of Quincy Quarries during my junior year at Boston University. As soon as I graduated in 1993, I was excited to get back home to Vermont and try out my skills. In the Green Mountains, there seemed to be unexplored and unlimited potential for climbing. Vermont is far rockier, wilder, and more mountainous than Massachusetts.

But when I got home the question was, where to go? I had expected to find a comprehensive guidebook like those that cover the many classic areas in New Hampshire and New York. But no such guidebook existed. Vermont climbing was still largely undiscovered.

In the early 1990s the only cliff frequented by Burlington-area climbers was Lower West Bolton. We hardly needed a guidebook to memorize the area’s 30 climbs from the map Bruce Jamison made for his short Climbing article about the area. But Bolton began to wake up, slowly at first, and many more cliffs were discovered and explored. Bolton evolved into the place to climb in Vermont, a place where everyone seemed to get their start. But I was ready to explore.

As I climbed around the state, I took notes and climbers shared their beta. This eventually turned into the 2012 publication of Vermont’s first rock climbing guidebook, Tough Schist, Rock Climbing in Northern Vermont. As I researched the book, I gained a new perspective on the state’s cliffs and a great appreciation for the wild breadth of geology in the Green Mountains. The guidebook pointed many climbers to areas outside Bolton and provided a jumping-off point for further exploration. In the following decade, hundreds of new routes were discovered, many new areas were explored, and Vermont’s climbing landscape evolved significantly.

With rumors of these new climbs

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Seth Maciejowski of Jericho climbs one of Black Mountain’s best cracks, Double D (5.7+) Photo T . Peckham

spreading, my every visit to the climbing gym or the crags would prompt a question about when the next edition of Tough Schist was coming out. I soon ran out of excuses; it was time to get to work.

I realized that I’d settled into a wellworn path of climbing almost entirely in nearby Bolton. It had been years, and in some cases over a decade, since I’d been to some of Vermont’s more remote cliffs, and a few of the newer areas I’d never been to. There was no question I needed to break out of my routine and immerse myself in the less-traveled and further-afield. The experience could not have been more rewarding.

With the Covid-19 pandemic running white hot through the country and nearly everything locked down, our lives were transformed in many challenging ways. But despite the upheaval, I was surprised to find a few silver linings. My wife, Nancy, and our teenage kids, Flynn and Phoebe, were eager to get out of the house and join me for fieldwork and adventures within our state’s closed borders. With the kids soon off to college, exploring and documenting Vermont rock, socially-distanced in our “bubble”, was an amazing opportunity for which Nancy and I are very grateful. We visited more areas, explored more terrain, and climbed more vertical miles than in any season I can remember—and we had a blast!

Even after climbing here for nearly 30 years, I continue to be overwhelmed by the breadth and diversity of Vermont rock. Every cliff and region is unique and beautiful in its own way. When I’m asked which is my favorite, I can’t say I have one. I love them all the same— equally but in different ways. From the impeccable granite of the Northeast Kingdom to the lakeside limestone of the Champlain Valley and the wild swirling variations of schist along the Green Mountains, every crag has its own special, endearing qualities, natural beauty and compelling challenges.

So, jump off your well-worn path, get out of Bolton, and try something new. It’s time to gain a fresh perspective on Vermont rock. These ten outstanding climbing areas, in order from north to south, are a great place to start.

1. BLACK MOUNTAIN, AVERILL

Hidden in one of the most remote corners of the state, just off Route 114 and only a few miles from Norton and the Canadian border, lies Black Mountain, a shrine to the god of granite. This cliff’s surreal architecture makes it unlike any other in the Northeast. Its splitter cracks, razor-cut corners, towering arêtes, and long, technical faces are so remarkably perfect at times that they look like they were created by ancient stonemasons as some sort of a mysterious astrological monument.

Simply walking the base of the cliff will be enough to make most climbers struggle to fight off the overwhelming urge to quit their day jobs and live in a van parked here. Nowhere else in the state can this concentration of otherworldly cracks in perfect granite

But be forewarned, the first ascensionists who established many of the climbs here were forged from the bold traditional ethics of their era, and more than a few of Wheeler Mountain’s climbs feature harrowingly long runouts and dubious protection.

The perfect 90-degree arête of 3/8ths My Ass (5.10c), showcases the impeccable rock found virtually everywhere on the mountain. This classic stunner has awesome moves requiring body-English and finesse.

First-time visitors probably won’t be able to complete the half-hour approach hike to the climb without being tempted to stop for one of over a hundred other spectacular climbs passed along the way. Classics pitches like Moosehead Crack (5.7), The Right Stuff (5.9), Kingdom Crack (5.10b) and Thunder and Lightning (5.11a) will almost certainly have those new to the area throwing down their packs and breaking out their racks. Those looking for bigger adventures can step up to one of the cliff’s multi-pitch challenges like VJ’s (5.6), Whine and Cheese (5.11a), and the legendary The Great Corner (5.11a).

With one of Vermont’s largest climbing areas at your fingertips, it might be hard to break away from Wheeler, but make time to take a refreshing dip in the chilly waters of Lake Willoughby, unquestionably one of Vermont’s most beautiful lakes. If you prefer warmer water, try the public beach at the state park at nearby Crystal Lake. Round out the day with artisan pizza at an outdoor picnic table at Parker Pie in Glover, paired with one of the elusive Hill Farmstead beers served here.

3. PROSPECT ROCK, JOHNSON

The patchwork of fields and farms seen from high on Prospect Rock, off Route 15, is the perfect backdrop to a cliff with a great variety of moderate climbs.

Unlike Smugglers’ Notch, its intimidating and rugged alpine neighbor to the south, the rolling farmland of the Lamoille River valley is a tranquil pastoral setting for this laid-back schist playground. Its short scenic approach, mix of sun and shade, and variety of climbs on the easier end of the spectrum makes Prospect a perfect choice for families and those looking to learn more about climbing outdoors.

Charge the Farm (5.7) is one of the best sport climbs for the grade in northern Vermont and a mustdo when visiting the area—but don’t miss Prospector (5.8), Noeyed Deer (5.4), Bee’s Crack (5.9), Chipmunks on Espresso (5.8), and two-dozen other great routes that are sure to delight those looking for quality rock and relatively low commitment. While there aren’t many

The author, climbing Wheeler's 3/8ths My Ass Photo by Nancy Koenig Peckham

come close to being matched.

Cracks like Double D (5.7+), are among the area’s collection of brilliant moderates that includes Black Dreams (5.8), Traffic Jam (5.9), and Crows Fly Black (5.8+).

Those looking to step up to stout, gear-eating 5.10s will find 20 of the best pitches in New England, including perfect fingers on Wild Black (5.10c), perfect hands on The Absence of Light (5.10b), and the gruesome characterbuilding 5” offwidth, Black Plague (5.10c). But don’t make the power-line utility road’s rough 6-mile drive looking for sport climbs. Black Mountain is paradise, but almost entirely trad.

Given the time and effort needed to reach this remote crag, most climbers will want to plan on staying a few days. Quimby Country, Vermont’s oldest sporting camp, founded in 1894, offers excellent cabins by Forest Lake and Great Averill Pond. Gene and Lilly Devlin, Quimby’s owners, are former climbers themselves, so be sure to mention that you’re there to visit Black Mountain.

Those new to climbing outdoors might consider hiring Sterling Mountain Guides. Food options in the area are limited, but Chez Pidgeon in Norton is a popular spot with locals for brews and pub fare, and more options can be had in nearby Island Pond, including a local favorite, Jesse’s Little Kitchen.

2. WHEELER MOUNTAIN, WESTMORE

Wheeler Mountain, just off Route 5, is the Northeast Kingdom’s crown jewel of old-school Vermont trad climbing. The amazing fine-grained granite dome has some of the state’s best—and boldest— friction climbs. With its stunning views of the deep, cold waters of Lake Willoughby and the massive, streaked walls of Mount Pisgah in the distance, the region offers a beautiful setting for some of the best climbing adventures in New England, as you will see from the photo of Mt. Hor on the cover of this magazine.

Best yet, in the fall when humidity is low, temperatures are perfect, and friction is at its best, the vast forests below the cliff offer a splendor that is beyond breathtaking.

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Swordsman (5.13d). Photo by T. Peckham

climbs harder than 5.9 at Prospect Rock, the nearby Butchers’ Crags are home to the savagely steep Under the Cleaver (5.12a), arguably the valley’s best pitch of sport climbing. Beginners and those not interested in lead climbing will find it reasonable to set up topropes on many of the area’s climbs, using mature trees and bolted anchors.

Located just a few miles from Johnson, off the Long Trail trailhead on Hog Back Road, Prospect Rock is popular with Northern Vermont University Outdoor Leadership program students, outing clubs, and the handful of climbers of Lamoille County.

While it’s common to see other climbers on mid-summer weekends, the cliff has plenty of room to spread out and is rarely crowded.

After climbing, enjoy a refreshing dip in the Lamoille River just a stone’s throw from the base, or take a short drive for a proper swim in the beautiful water of Metcalf Pond. Great beer, pizza, and pub grub can be found at Johnson’s Downtown Pizzeria and Pub a 5-minute drive from the cliff.

4. SMUGGLERS’ NOTCH, JEFFERSONVILLE/STOWE

Renowned for its ice climbing and bouldering, Smugglers’ Notch has been largely overlooked by technical rock climbers. Daunting exposure, a reputation for loose rock, steep approaches, and alpine weather all conspire to keep Smuggs off the climbing map.

But the adventurous few who’ve explored its long scree gullies have found dozens of huge buttresses with some of the wildest and most exposed climbing Vermont has to offer. Among the many cliffs in the Notch, ENT Gully is one of the best introductions to climbing in the area, with its high concentration of excellent sport climbs, short approach, and some of the steepest rock in Vermont. ENT’s classic overhanging arête, Quickbeam (5.11d), (shown on page 10), is a jaw-dropping line that begins at the mouth of the gully, below the outrageously steep wall that forms the left side of this deep slot canyon. Stickclip the first bolt and boulder up to a huge triangular jug notched out of the arête, a perfect place to look straight up the line and contemplate the battle to come. Charge up incut holds, and as the pump builds, unlock an unlikely kneebar to catch a quick shake before the final crux.

After cruising Quickbeam, continue the savage forearm workout with Bark of the Bull (5.10d), Joel’s Bolts (5.11a), Fangorn (5.12a), and Massing up Vermont (5.12b), some of the Notch’s best sport climbs. Don’t forget to bring a third person to take epic photos of your sends from high in the gully.

When your tired forearms have nothing left to give, drop down Route 108 toward Jeffersonville and relax in the cool pools of the Brewster River gorge on Canyon Road before enjoying fresh brewed beer and excellent pub fare at Brewster River Pub and Brewery. On the Stowe side of the Notch, plunge into the gorgeous emerald pools below Bingham Falls, before winding down at von Trapp Bierhall, Idletyme Brewing, Stowe Cider, or Alchemist Brewery, home of the double-IPA, Heady Topper.

5. LONE ROCK POINT, BURLINGTON

If you thought Vermont was nothing but schist and granite—guess again. Lone Rock Point’s steep lakeside limestone stands apart from other area crags. Its Dunham dolomite rock offers a climbing experience unlike any other this side of Rifle, Colo.

Just minutes from downtown Burlington just past North Beach on the shores of Lake Champlain, Lone Rock is home to many of Vermont’s hardest, most powerful and beta-intensive sport climbs. Bring a long stick clip and sticky rubber knee pads, and get ready to try very, very hard.

Peter Clark, shown above working through the challenging upper cruxes of The Swordsman (5.13d), has been a regular at the cliff and has established many of the cliff’s routes and variations. His efforts as a representative of CRAGVT have also been essential to forming a lasting access partnership between climbers and the Episcopal Diocese, the cliff’s landowner. Clark’s other routes at Lone Rock are some of its finest and include Liquid Swords (5.13b), Proto Sloth (5.13b), and the future classic (and possibly the longest-named route in Vermont) Terror Wolf: The Howling Undead Warrior (5.13c).

Don’t come to this savagely overhanging bluff looking for moderates, the area only has two routes easier than 5.12. But if you’re prepared to climb some of Vermont’s most powerful lines, you won’t go wrong with a visit to the lake.

When the sun swings onto the cliff in the mid-afternoon, and temperatures become less than ideal for hard sending, cool off in the lake and bask in the sun on the boulders below the cliff, or take a short walk over to the south side of the point to North Beach.

When it’s time for dinner, ride your bike back into town on the nearby Burlington bike path, where freshly tapped beers can be found at Foam Brewing. Pedal a few minutes further for waterfront views, live music, and crepes at the Skinny Pancake.

Flynn Peckham flies up The Swarm (5.10a) at Marshfield Ledge. Photo by T. Peckham

6. MARSHFIELD LEDGE, GROTON STATE FOREST

Groton State Forest hosts some of the state’s most amazing and least-visited climbing areas, and of these Marshfield Ledge is the best. Rising 400 feet from the beautiful forests below, this half-mile-wide granite dome offers trad and sport climbing with grades from 5.6 to 5.14. Unlike many areas in the Northeast which sit perched over highways and towns, Marshfield Ledge has almost no human development within sight. The expansive views from high on the cliff showcase a vast expanse of unbroken forests, wetlands, and mountains. If you’re looking for great multi-pitch routes, bullet-hard granite, and transcendent tranquility, Marshfield Ledge is for you.

The Swarm (5.10a), climbed in the photo above by Flynn Peckham, is a perfect introduction to over 60 other climbs at Marshfield Ledge. With technical friction, cracks, corners, and edgy vertical faces, this route has it all. Intensity builds over the route’s three-pitches (5.8, 5.9, and 5.10a) and culminates in a cruxy pull over a steep roof at the very top of the cliff

Most climbers won’t complain about the comfortable belays and good protection, and after rappelling down, they’ll be hungry for more. Nearby Nip Tuck (5.9+ PG), Marshfield Corners (5.10b), Bidin’ Time (5.10c), Parula (5.11a), and other classic lines offer options to round out a very full day.

Those looking to challenge themselves with some of the region’s hardest sport climbs will want to find their way to High Grade Ledge. Spectacularly perched hundreds of feet above the forest, this fierce overhanging face hosts nearly a dozen legendary routes and variations that are 5.13 and harder. Don’t miss Vounilla (5.13b), reputed to be one of the most truly unique climbing experiences in New England.

Camping in nearby Stillwater State Park on Lake Groton is one of the best ways to enjoy the area. Wonderful swimming and paddling in the 422acre lake provide a great way to cool down if your feet get a little too hot on Marshfield’s slabs. Big Deer Mountain has excellent trail running and the Cross Vermont Trail puts one of the state’s longest bike routes right at your campsite. While peregrine falcons and oppressive heat close most of this south-facing cliff until August, the climbing at nearby Owl’s Head and Spice Mountain is also good fun and provides more options for those visiting the park in mid-summer.

7. APP GAP, WAITSFIELD

Route 17’s beautiful high-mountain pass between Mount Ellen and Camel’s Hump links the Mad River Valley and Huntington, Bristol and Hinesburg on the western side of the Greens. At the top of the pass, rocky outcroppings emerge temptingly from the steep slopes, hinting at the potential that might be hidden in these hills. Dropping down the west side of the pass, the striking buttress of Road Wall is enough to make passing drivers crane their necks and struggle to keep their cars on the road as they wonder. “Is there any climbing up here?” The answer is “yes”.

Appalachian Gap, or “App Gap” as it is more commonly known, has tempted climbers for decades, but it has only recently gathered any momentum as a summertime cragging area. Here Derek Doucet recently did a first ascent of a new unnamed 5.11d route wedged in a unique cleft behind a prominent outcropping north of the parking area. Doucet’s new route is but one of the 25 great climbs scattered about on the numerous small crags in the area.

The gap’s shade and high elevation makes it one of Vermont’s best warm-weather destinations, and its concentration of 5.10s, a balanced blend of trad and sport, appeal to experienced climbers.

When visiting App Gap, don’t miss some of my favorites, Two Hoots for You (5.9), On the Road (5.10d), The Homeless’ Guide to Phoenix (5.10d),

Derek Doucet, above left, on the first ascent of an unnamed 5.11d route on App Gap, just north of the parking area. Right, local Matt Severson on home turf at Eagle Hollow's Turkey Shoot (5.7+ PG). Photos by T. Peckham

Severance Crack (5.11a), Swole Gibbon (5.11c), and Vespa (5.12a).

When your forearms can’t hold onto the vertical walls of the gap anymore, jump on the Long Trail, north or south, and enjoy a classic stretch of Vermont’s famous footpath in the wilderness.

After the sun sets over the Adirondacks, drop down to Waitsfield to the east for a brew at Lawson’s Finest Liquids, a meal at The Mad Taco orStoke Ramen in Waitsfield. Or head west to Bristol to refuel and unwind, at The Bobcat Café and Brewery.

8. EAGLE HOLLOW, VERSHIRE

How the proud cliffs of Vershire’s Eagle Hollow, on Route 113 about 30 miles northwest of Norwich, were all-butforgotten by most climbers remains a mystery.

While much of the cliff’s early history is lost to the mists of time, climbing here dates back to at least the 1960s, and its use as a training ground for the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club (DMC) may bring its history back even further. It seems likely that mountaineering legend Jack Durrance, who founded the DMC in 1936, made the half-hour drive from Hanover to hone his skills here before his 1938 first ascent of Devil’s Tower in Wyoming

Ancient pitons scattered around the wall, some clearly homemade and experimental, offer evidence of a long and mysterious past filled with thrills, spills, and good times. With the emergence of sport climbing in the 1990s, Bolton and Rumney became ascendant and Eagle Hollow, an old bastion of schist trad climbing, fell into the shadows. But this excellent cliff is long overdue for a renaissance.

Matt Severson of Vershire, shown above climbing the classic 200’ corner, Turkey Shoot (5.7+ PG), began exploring and rediscovering Eagle Hollow in 2018. While it was obvious that many of the climbs here hadn’t been led in years, Severson was inspired by the area’s potential. He quickly repeated many of the area’s old trad classics, then moved on to establish a flurry of new sport routes, destined to become future classics. Two of his best routes— Left Back, Let Down

(5.10a) and Alt-Right-Delete (5.9) — have ample protection and sustained climbing up the tallest part of the cliff.

Severson was soon joined by Morgan Patterson of Hanover, NH, and they and their partners inspired the quality lines of Eagle Horns (5.10b), Eaglet (5.10b), Shoo-B-Doop (5.5), and Trash Talking Turkeys (5.10a). Severson also discovered Lasso Ledge, a second cliff nearby, that is now stacked with terrific 5.7 to 5.11 sport climbing. This new crag will certainly reinvigorate interest in this long-lost area.

While the immediate area around Eagle Hollow doesn’t offer many amenities for the visiting climber, Montpelier is about a half-hour away. Pho Capital, Pho Thai Express, The Hippy Chickpea, Positive Pie, and The Mad Taco, are all great options sure to satisfy hungry climbers after a long day at the crag.

9. BRANDON GAP, GOSHEN

Along the winding curves of Route 73, between Brandon and Rochester, impressive cliffs and boulders decorate the southern slopes of Mount Horrid near the top of Brandon Gap. The Great Cliff, with its huge overhangs, looms above and invites climbers to explore its steep faces. Below, the wild spires of Finger Rock and the Crow’s Nest stand out proudly from the surrounding jumble, begging to be climbed. These massive, detached spikes are some of the East’s few free-standing spires and offer a rare opportunity to bag a technical summit.

The spire’s eponymous route, Finger Rock (5.10d) (shown at right), is a steep bold line first established on aid by Stanley Rydjeski and Ed Clark in 1982. A shallow groove on smooth rock leads straight up through a series of difficult cruxes before a tough pull onto the right shoulder of the spire leads to an easy romp to the narrow summit.

Enjoy the well-earned views from the top, then catch up on the history of Finger Rock ascents in the tattered summit register. After rappelling off, run a lap on the spire’s other route, Buzzard Bait (5.11a) before warming down on Birds of Prey (5.7+ PG) and West Face (5.6) on the Crow’s Nest.

Like Smuggler’s Notch and several cliffs in the Northeast Kingdom, Brandon Gap is home to nesting peregrine falcons, and the cliffs are typically closed until the beginning of August when the birds fledge.

Many rare and sensitive plants can also be found in the Gap, and visitors should be careful to minimize their impact on the ecology. Respecting these unique ecosystems is not only important to preserving the natural world, but also helps ensure that climbers will continue

spires in the East. Photo by Flynn Peckham

to be welcome on these and other state lands in the future. When visiting the area, please tread lightly and respect the wild things that live here.

After you put the ropes away, explore the Moosalamoo National Recreation Area, camp at Silver Lake or head to Brandon for the deliciously strong ales at Foley Brothers Brewing or a meal on the terrace at Café Provence.

10. DEER LEAP, KILLINGTON

Perched above The Inn at the Long Trail at the very top of Sherburne Pass on Route 4 in Killington, the proud crest of Deer Leap has tempted climbers for over

Travis Peckham taking in the scenery on The Perfect Pint (5.7 PG) at Deer Leap, just a short hike from Route 4 near Killington. Photo by Flynn Peckham

65 years. The cliff’s first known pioneers were Arni Kirbach and Carl Acker with their ascent of Center Crack in 1946. Their ascent drew a crowd of spectators from the inn below the cliff who came out to watch the drama unfold. The audience was given quite a show as Kirbach reportedly took a ten-footer onto a softiron piton and then, after gathering his wits, continued to the top of the cliff with cheers and car horns tooting from below. Over the years, many more parties explored the area, but while its history is certainly as rich and colorful as any Vermont crag, very few stories survive other than this classic anecdote.

Today, Deer Leap continues to entertain with its excellent variety of trad, sport, and toprope climbs on some of Vermont’s best schist. Its excellent views of Pico Mountain and the Adirondacks provide a airy alpine atmosphere just a few steps from the road.

While there are a few good sport climbs at Deer Leap, like The Far Side (5.8) and Darkside (5.9), the best thing about this cliff is its trad climbing. Long, outstanding lines like The Tree (5.4), Center Crack (5.7), The Monkey (5.8), and Celibacy (5.9+) are some of the best pitches on Vermont schist and should not be missed.

The Perfect Pint (5.7 PG), another excellent line (see photo), follows a steep path of positive incut edges up the right side of Deer Leap’s main cliff. The protection on this route isn’t everything one might want, but the climbing feels secure and gear-eating cracks and slots seem to magically appear when needed.

After a full day of sampling some of the cliff’s 48 routes, grab a pint of Guinness at McGrath’s Irish Pub at the Inn at the Long Trail below the cliff. Follow up beers with bangers and other Irish pub fare. If stouts and sausages aren’t to your liking, drop down Route 4 on the west side of Sherburne Pass and visit Rutland Beer Works or Hop’n Moose in Rutland.

Travis Peckham’s second edition guidebook, Vermont Rock: A Rock Climber’s Guide, is scheduled for publication in spring 2022. Follow @ vermontrock802 for updates on the book’s release.