APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
ARVIND LIMITED, LIFESTYLE APPAREL, JEANS DIVISION MYSORE ROAD, BANGALORE
Internship Duration: - 25th May to 29TH AUGUST, 2015
APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT Under the Guidance and Supervision of: MRS. V PRIYADARSHINI
Submitted By: RAJIV RANJAN VIBHANSHU SRIVASTAVA DFT – SEM 7
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
DECLARATION This is to declare that this document is an original work done by the following students of Department of Fashion Technology, semester 7 under the guidance of the college mentor “Mrs. V Priyadarshini”
Rajiv Ranjan
Vibhanshu Srivastava
Mrs. V Priyadarshini (Mentor)
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would sincerely like to thank Arvind Limited, Lifestyle Apparel, Jeans Division, Mysore road, Bangalore for giving us an opportunity to work and learn in the apparel industry as an internee. It was great experience learning from expertise in the industry. It was a very good exposure with newly automated machineries indeed. We would like to thank our mentor Mr. Shrinivas Naik (Head of Laundry Operations) and Mr. Rajendra N (Quality Head) for guiding us throughout the internship period and providing a moral and mental support. We would also like to the hr manager, Mr. Vikas Tripathi & Mr. Partha Das, for taking care of our needs and for providing encouragement at every step. We would like to give our heartfelt gratitude to the “head of department” of all the departments that we studied for letting us go through the processes in detail with the help of provided person. On the other part, we would like to thank our centre co-coordinator “Mr. Shakeel Iqbal” for providing us the chance to do the internship and our college mentor “Mrs. Priyadarshini” for guiding us throughout the internship span. It was a good experience visiting Arvind ltd. And learning the new perceptions, methods, techniques and atomization related to the textiles. Lastly, we would like to thank our parents, friends and co-internees for boosting up our strength and helping us whenever we needed. Without them we would not had been able to do this document.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
TABLE OF CONTENT
S.NO
TOPIC
PAGE NO.
1.
ABOUT THE COMPANY
8-20
2.
INTRODUCTION
21-22
3.
CHAPTER 1- MERCHANDISING
23-30
4.
CHAPTER 2- STORE DEPARTMENT
31-35
5.
CHAPTER 3- FABRIC STORAGE
36-43
6.
CHAPTER 4- TRIMS STORAGE
44-47
7.
CHAPTER 5- LABORATORY
48-56
8.
CHAPTER 6- SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING
57-72
9.
CHAPTER 7- CUTTING
73-87
10.
CHAPTER 8 - SEWING
88-100
11.
CHAPTER 9 – INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
101-104
12.
CHAPTER 10 - WASHING
105-130
13.
CHAPTER 11 – FINISHING AND PACKAGING
131-141
15
CHAPTER 12. PROJECTS
142-242
15.A
PROJECT #1
143-186
15.B
PROJECT #2
187-242
16
BIBLIOGRAPHY
243
17
ANNEXURES
244
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
List of Figures and Tables Figure .No
TOPIC
PAGE NO.
1
Work Flow in Organization
22
1.1
Process Flow In Merchandising Department
25
1.2
Process Functionality In Merchandising Department
26
1.3
Role Of Market And Product Merchandising
29
1.4
Hierarchy In Merchandising
30
2.1
Fabric And trim Storage
31
3.1
Fabric Storage
36
3.2
Layout of Fabric Storage
37
3.3
Process Flow Of Fabric Storage
38
3.4
Sections Of Fabric Storage
38
3.5
Shade Segregation Details
40
3.6
Fabric Inspection Process
42
3.7
Activity chart Of fabric Storage
43
4.1
Trim Storage
44
4.2
Layout of Trim Storage
45
4.3
Process Flow of Trim Storage
46
5.1
Tests performed in Lab
51
6.1
CAD & Sampling Department
57
6.2
Layout Of Sampling Department
59
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2015
6.3
Cutting Section Of Sampling Department
67
6.4
Sewing Section Of sampling Department
69
7.1
Cutting Department
73
7.2
Layout Of Cutting Department
74
7.3
Process Flow Of Cutting Department
75
7.4
Activity Flowchart Of Cutting Department
77
7.5
Fabric Relaxation
79
7.6
Spreading
80
7.7
Labeling & Cutting
83
7.8
Embroidery section
85
7.9
Numbering, Bundling & Audit Section
87
8.1
Sewing department
88
8.2
Sewing Lines
90
8.3
Layout Of sewing Lines
91
8.4
Process Flow Of Sewing department
93
8.5
Wash care label Standard
97
9.1
Industrial Engineering Department
101
10.1
S.O.P Of Washing Department
106
10.2
Layout Of Dry Washing
107
10.3
Process Flow of Laser operations
109
10.4
Hand scrapping
111
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2015
10.5
Tacking
113
10.6
Resin Wash
114
10.7
Crocking
115
10.8
curing
115
10.9
Layout Of wet Processing
117
10.10
Grinder
118
10.11
PP Spray
119
10.12
Process cycle Of Stone Wash
121
10.13
Pumice Stones for Stone Wash
122
10.14
Sponge used For Sponge Wash
125
10.15
Semi Wash & final Wash Loader
125
10.16
Hydro Extractor
127
10.17
Material flow In wet washing
129
11.1
Finishing department
131
11.2
Process Flow Of Finishing Department
135
11.3
Process Layout
140
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2015
S.No.
TABLES
Pg. No.
3.1
4 pt. system
41
6.1
Stitching Steps For denim Jeans
70
8.1
Capacity details Of Wet Process
92
8.2
Operational Breakdown Of Sewing Section
95
8.3
Machine types & Needles
98
10.1
SMV Of whiskering
108
10.2
SMV of Hand Scrapping
112
10.3
SMV Of Crinckling & Curing
112
10.4
SMV Of Hydro Extraction
116
10.5
Methods Of Washing
126
10.6
Machine Details Of Wet Process
128
10.7
Machine Details Of Dry process
130
10.8
Tacking
130
11.1
Machine Details For Finishing Department
136
11.2
Capacity Details For Finishing Department
136
11.3
Manpower Details For Finishing Department
137
11.4
Time study Of Ricky Youth
132
11.5
SMV details Of Various Buyers
138
11.6
Machine Details
139
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2015
Table of Figures for PROJECT#2
Figure .No
TOPIC
PAGE NO.
1.0
Operational Breakdown Of Mould Whiskering
190
1.1
Setup Of Suspender
191
1.2
Elastic Band Implementation
193
1.3
Elastic Bands With Velcro Used For The Setup
195
1.4
Cello Tape Attachment
196
1.5
Elastic Band Attachment
196
1.6
Operational And Time Breakdown Of Puncture Patches
198
1.7
201
1.8
The Breakdown Of Puncture Patches Process After Implementation Manpower Reduction For Puncture Patches Process
2.1
Standard Procedure For Developing Module Setup
206
2.2
Dry Process Update Chart
208
2.3
H&M Hand Sanding Report
209
2.4
LEVI’S Hand Sanding Report
210
2.5
Hand Sanding Final Checking Report
211
2.6
Mould Whiskering Final Checking Report
212
2.7
Operators Hourly Production Report
213
2.8
Dry Process QA audit Final Report
214
2.9
Dry process QA audit Report
215
2.10
Dry process Q.A audit report
216
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2.11
Set Theory Of Constraints
218
2.12
Washing Quality Checking Report
222
2.13
Washing Rework And Rejection Details
223
2.14
225
2.16
Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit ReportFinal Wash Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit ReportSemi Wash Washing And Dry Process Control Wise Report
2.17
Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Semi)
228
2.18
Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Final)
229
2.19
Washing Quality Checking Report
231
2.20
Washing Quality Checking Report- Dry Process
231
2.21
Washing Quality Process Control Wise Audit Report
233
2.22
Washing Process Control- Initial 4 Lots
234
2.23
Quality And Audit Module Setup Through ISO XPRESS
235
2.24
Log In Screen
237
2.25
Home Screen
237
2.26
Quality Audit Option
238
2.27
“Internal Audit” Screen
238
2.28
“Internal Audit Record” Screen
239
2.29
“Report” Screen
240
2.30
“Attachments” Screen
240
2.31
“Template” Screen
241
2.15
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | Introduction
Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931. With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122 looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76 lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country. In the mid 1980’s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its highest level of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management, for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy – Reno vision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the obvious and that became the corporate philosophy. The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind’s markets shifted from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An indepth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | Company’s Vision
The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles of people, across all diversities and demographics. OUR PHILOSOPHY WE BELIEVE In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus on problem solving; in teams for effective performance, in the power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for the corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.
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‘We
will enable people to experience a better quality of life by providing enriching and inspiring lifestyle solutions’.
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
Denim The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been Arvind’s core competency and have played a key role in Arvind’s success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All Arvind’s products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from Arvind’s designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality. Some Examples:
·
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim
·
Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
·
Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, and Linen
·
Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
·
Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
·
Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
Knits
Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics and offers specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing and peaching.
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish. Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
Garment Exports
A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our range of fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves as a one-stop shop for apparel solutions catering to an array of national and international clients.
Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum
Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum
Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum
Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:
Automated Placement Printing Machinery
India’s largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes
Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry processes
Skilled artisans for hand processes
Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver Jeans – Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit – S.Oliver – Mexx – Sisley – Benetton – Coin
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2015
Advanced Materials
We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering high-tech textile solutions for critical and composite applications. Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the Advanced Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have brought a new level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of branded fabrics and composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial sectors like Personal Protection,
Industrial
Filtration,
Wind
Energy,
Defense,
Auto
Components,
Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure. Products in the Pro1 range include: Fire Protection Fabrics Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics
Proban
Pyrovatex
Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics
Nomex
Protex (Modacrylic)
High Tech Applications Filtration Fabrics Anti-Ballistic Fabrics Nylon Fabrics Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics
Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that are as distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work across multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of the Arvind 13 | P a g e
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brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273 standalone brand stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts and multibrand outlets across India. Own Brands
Licensened Brands
Joint Venture Brands
Mainstream
Bridge to Luxury
Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant
U.S.A. 1949
Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine
Energie’
Popular
Premium
Premium
Ruf&Tuf
USPA
Lee
New Port University
Arrow
Wrangler
Izod
Popular Cherokee Mossimo
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS Mega Mart Retail
2015
Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain Megamart. The MegaMart format offers a unique
and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega brands at amazingly low prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger stores are called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are 205 in number. Mega mart is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr chain within the next two years.
The brands sold exclusively in Mega mart include:
RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE
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2015
The Arvind Store
After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has now introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail. The Arvind Store brings together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer. It is a convergence of three of Arvind’s strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics from Arvind’s textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and bespoke styling solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios. In a world where bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store will create a shopping experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.
Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized washed denim - a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world Arvind Studio – A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the world
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | Executive Leaders
Corporate Jayesh Shah Director & CFO Anang Lalbhai MD - Arvind Products
Lifestyle Fabrics Aamir Akhtar CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim Susheel Kaul CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics PD Chavda President, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel Ashish Kumar CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts
Brands & Retail J.Suresh Managing Director - Brands & Retail Knowledge Academy Milan Shah CEO, Knowledge Academy 17 | P a g e
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | Board of Directors MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI (CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR) Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years.
MR. JAYESH SHAH (DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER) Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Whole time Director with the designation of Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.
MR. PUNIT LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR) Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in Strategy and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters of Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science (Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA.
MR. KULIN LALBHAI (EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR) Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along with a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford University, USA.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | International Buyers
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 About the Company | Own Brands
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INTRODUCTION
DENIM The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been our core competency and have played a key role in our success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All products are designed and modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out of India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of distinctiveness and quality. Some Examples: Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100, GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025 certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc. The workflow of the company is shown in figure 1.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS WORK FLOW IN THE ORGANISATION HR MARKETING
MERCHANDISING
SAMPLING
PURCHASE
STORE
PPC
CUTTING
SEWING
WASHING
FINISHING
PACKAGING
SHIPMENT
Figure I .Work Flow in the organization
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DESIGN
2015
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
CHAPTER 1.MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT Upon confirmation of the order from the buyer the job of the merchandising department starts. A merchandiser is the middleman between the manufacturer and the buyer. Merchandiser is solely responsible for coordinating inter departmental activities and to get the shipment dispatched on schedule. A merchandiser takes care of all the orders from his/her designated buyer. The merchandiser also coordinates the sampling procedure. He gets all the samples made in various stages and sends them to the buyer and carries out the necessary corrections & additions told by the buyer. The sampling process is a lengthy & very crucial process, because what you get approved finally by the buyer, if your bulk shipment doesn’t match even in the tiniest of specifications, the whole shipment can be rejected. So, a merchandiser should very clearly and carefully examine & analyze each sample before he sends to the buyer & get approval.
MERCHANDISING SECTION A Merchandising division surrounds the concept of the target customer and translates the customer preference into a product line for the rest of the apparel firm. Merchandising is the planning, development and presentation of product line for identified target market with regard to prices, assortment, styling and timing. Merchandising department is the central coordinating point for line development, design execution and delivery of products. It plays a major role in the industry and they communicate with all other department to give the information from the Buyer and get the things done on the required date. Merchandiser deals with the Buyer and the suppliers and through them the order is processed and delivery dates are met on time. Merchandising involves the conceptualization, development, procurement of raw material, sourcing, planning and coordination between all the departments for production and delivery of apparel products to the customer. The Merchandising Department is responsible for selling the manufactured product to the buyer. It is responsible for getting the orders and hence generates a source of revenue for the company. A team of 23 | P a g e
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merchants, along with people from various departments such as Production, Sampling, Quality, are responsible for overseeing the development of the product. In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. Merchandiser will check whether it is possible to go ahead with the style and if the style is feasible will get the costing done and get the sample ready. The goal is the timely delivery of costing details and samples so as to receive an order from the buyer. Merchandiser needs to make the time and action plan, allocating time to various activities keeping in mind the resources available in hand. Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production samples, and Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers. The hierarchy and the function flow is given in figure1.0 and the process flow is shown in figure1.1.
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1.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow in Merchandising
Recieve P.O from the buyer
OB recieved from IED & Production plan from PPC
Package file sent to all dept. with all details
Recieve tech pack & sample
Trims and fabric approved
Time and action chart prepared for orders
Tech pack & sample sent to sampling and tech dept.
Fabric and trims ordered after approval
Packed garment shipped to buyer with tech pack copy
Sample sent to buyer with test reports for approval
send tech dept for correction
Figure 1.1 Process flow in merchandising
Functions Performed By Merchandising Department The functions performed by the Merchandising department can be broadly classified under the following headlines. 1) Communication 2) Co-ordination
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3) Planning 4) Follow up 5) Sourcing 6) Costing 7) Sampling 8) Compliance & 9) Documentation and Maintaining Records These steps are made practical through the functionality flow (shown in figure 1.2) in the merchandising department.
DGD received
Green Tag Sample
PP Sample
Development Sample
Yellow Tag Sample
Bulk Production
Proto Sample
Fit Sample/Sellers Sample
Figure 1.2 Process functionality in merchandising
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects. Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co 26 | P a g e
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coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication etc. The Merchandiser performs the following follow ups: With Buyer to send complete info about the styles With all dept. to check everything is going as planned With Buyers to send the raw material for sampling With Suppliers to get raw materials in house on time With Sampling dept. and seeing that samples are ready With the Buyers to send the comments and approvals With Production dept. to check whether the production is on time so that the bulk delivery schedules are met. Key Responsibilities of a Merchandiser: I.
Communication
II.
Coordination
III.
Planning
IV.
Follow up
V.
Sourcing
VI.
Costing
VII.
Negotiation
VIII.
Sampling
IX.
Compliance
X.
Managerial
XI.
Decision Making
XII.
Documentation and Maintaining Records
Merchandiser role in Production Development 27 | P a g e
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A merchandiser can have both buyer and seller roles. As a buyer for materials needed in production, his duties might include sourcing vendors, securing samples and communicating between the export house and suppliers. In the seller role, the merchandiser helps buyers with developing merchandise specifications for export house orders. Export house duties can include developing samples and presentation portfolios used to secure prospective buyers. An educational background in design may be sought for an export merchandiser whose primary duty is to assist clients with product development. In the garment industry, for instance, the merchandiser may help a client develop custom specifications for garment designs, including fabric and color selections. OTHER ROLES OF MERCHANDISER Order Follow-Up. Prepares a timetable during pre-production and production stages. Conducts plan visits to follow-up the status of the product/order. Closely monitors the production process and sends progress reports to the buyer. Establishes clear measures for quality control, and affects the same in inspecting all orders placed during production and post-production prior to loading. Ensures on-time delivery of the goods to the buyer. Negotiates with buyer in case of delay.
WORK OF MERCHANDISER In every season the garment merchandiser receives tech pack from various buyers. These tech packs contain information about the garment down to very last detail. Four copies of these tech packs are made for the following. INDUSTRIAL IE DEPARTMENT. CAD DEPARTMENT (PATTERN MAKING). SAMPLING DEPARTMENT. 28 | P a g e
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SELF MERCHANDISER ROLES IN DIFFERENT WORK PROCESS Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and zippers etc. The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms and executes the styles for sampling. A final sample called the sealer sample or the pre-production sample is made which is sent to the factory for bulk production. During production, if any shortage in fabric or trims or any other problems arise, the merchant is informed, and they acquire more fabric or trims, or under extreme conditions, inform the buyer for an extension in delivery date. Market and product merchandising are two main forms of merchandising. These have got various versatile roles shown in figure1.3. These two forms depends lot on the hierarchy of merchandising(shown in figure1.4)
Marketing Merchandising
• Contact with buyers • Sending samples • Getting approvals & rejections and futher communications • Payment terms and other negotiations
Product Merchandising
• Sourcing of raw materials • Costing • Sample development at various stages • Production status • Completion of order on time and with required buyer specifications
Figure 1.3 Role of market and product merchandising
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Head Merchandiser
Senior Production Merchandiser
Senior Marketing Merchandiser
Junior Marketing Merchandiser
Junior Production Merchandiser
Figure 1.4 Hierarchy in merchandising
The marketing department is responsible for procuring the orders from buyers globally. Either the buyer can approach the company or the marketing team will present their products at the world stage to receive orders. Thus, it is imperative to maintain reliable and trustworthy relations with the vendors. At Arvind Mills, Mysore road the marketing team is divided under three heads. The U.S. team caters to the business interests in the states. The European team looks after the buyers from the European countries while the Domestic team caters to the domestic buyers. Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and zippers etc. The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms and executes the styles for sampling. Based on the issues that crop up during sampling, changes are made, re submits are made over and over again, until the required look and feel of the garment is achieved. 30 | P a g e
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CHAPTER 2. STORE DEPARTMENT One of the major and important departments in any industries is the stores. The department involved in purchasing the raw materials and required accessories and keeps ready for production with a view not to suffer due to non-availability of materials at these of actual requirement. In the garment industry stores maintain fabric, trims and accessories record of all incoming and outgoing materials is the responsibility of the stores. Stores normally are the centralized section fabric storage for the unit after for stabilization of the whole unit fabric is ordered by the sourcing department in accordance with the requirement of the merchandiser for the export order. For job orders store in charge of the respective unit are the responsible for the follow up for placing the purchase order and the receipt in most cases or in other words the hierarchy level of the stores is as follows in connection to the decision making. Figure 2.1 showing the storage of fabric and trims.
Figure 2.1.Fabric and Trim storage
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Store at Arvind is divided into two sections: Fabric Store Trim Store The fabric requirement of a particular order depends on its consumption. The consumption varies with the style and size of the garment. The fabric store has a capacity to store around 2-3 lacs meter of fabric. 95% of the fabric requirement is procured from Arvind’s denim fabric unit at Naroda in Ahmedabad. Other mills that provide fabric at times are Raymond’s, Ashima etc. Fabric is at times sourced from Artistic Millers, Pakistan & Hong Kong. The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. As a norm 10% of fabric received from Naroda unit is inspected. For other suppliers, 20% of rolls is inspected. The merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the fabric store head. The required number of pieces (garments) is given in the sheet. After this the Fabric Cutting Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric required by the cutting room is given. 3 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 5 % is added for the rejection of garments. Hence, a total of 8 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores. Thus after all the required reports are received, the sub store in-charge maintains a Fabric Package File. This package file contains several charts. They are: Shade Band Approval: This chart is received from the merchandiser. This chart contains various details regarding the shades of the fabric. Style no, Buyer, Count and Construction, PO no, Received rolls, Color and code, Supplier Shade. This chart contains a swatch of the different shades of the fabric and the code given to them by the buyer and the store in-charge himself.
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Swatch Card: This card contains the details – Date, Design no, Style no, Count and construction and buyer name. This card also contains the before and after wash swatches and shade bands of the fabric. Sample Card: Swatch and sample cards being the same, contains the defect details that are present in the fabric. The common defects observed were: Slub Foreign yarn Dye Patch Stain Face Card Approval: This card contains a swatch of the fabric showing the face side of the fabric. Certain suppliers mark the face side of the fabric, however for the rest for the fabric where the face side determination is not easy; the merchandiser decides the face side of the fabric and marks it. This card is also received from the merchandiser.
Fusing Details: The sub store also stores the fusing materials. They also maintain the fusing details. Shrinkage report: The package file also contains the shrinkage report. This is received from the merchandiser. Fabric Quality Inspection Summary: This sheet is received from the merchandiser and is maintained in the package file. After the fabric is ordered, the store in-charge maintains a Daily Fabric Status Report. This report contains the details of the fabric ordered. That is, the quantity of the fabric received and the quantity of the fabric that is yet to be received (Balance). The store in-charge according to the quantity required and the availability of fabric in the store, issues the fabric to the cutting section. Thus the store in-charge fills in the rest of the form, the details – Quantity issued and Dept. The fabric is issued in the FIFO order – First In First Out. That is, the fabric that is received first from the main stores is issued first to the cutting section. 33 | P a g e
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The end – bits (left over bits of the fabric in the cutting room) were also being stored in the sub store. The shrinkage bits were also being stored in the sub store. The trims store maintains both garment materials and non-garment materials. Garment materials such as thread, zipper, shank and rivet, snap buttons etc are to be sourced as per buyer’s requirement before the actual production. Non-garment materials include items such as stationary, hardware that assist production indirectly. Primarily trim store ensures that there is no shortage of trims supply for the production. First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample, Order chart, RMR. The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to receive. There are 2 parts to the trims store. o Stitching Part o Packing Part After the trims are received, they are checked and then an Inward Challan is made. In the quantity ordered, 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations. The inspection of the trims and accessories is done by the supplier itself .Hence, when the trims are received; they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims store. However, for buttons counting is done. The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart are the details – Fabric swatch 34 | P a g e
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fabric code fabric color Matching thread for the fabric Labels Buttons Zippers Rivets Elastics The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details – material, Qty indent (required), qty issued and the dept. The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty. The packing part of the trims means the issuing of the trims at the packing stage to be included in the packing. E.g.:- Packing polythene. The next form filled is the Trim Order Completion Report (OCR). This form is filled by the trims store head at the dispatch stage of the garment. It contains many details – Materials, Consumption/garment, required, received, consumed, sent, total, balance, physical balance. This report basically gives the number of pieces of trims that were required and that were received. It also gives the balance that should be left – (total – received quantity). Store at Arvind is divided into two sections: (i) Fabric store (ii)Trim store
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CHAPTER 3.FABRIC STORAGE
Figure 3.1 Fabric Storage
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its merchandise such that fabric will be obtained as shown in figure3.1. It works in coordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcing executive must have knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively. The fabrics are sourcing from Ahmadabad basically. The fabrics they are sourcing from Arvind Textiles, Ahmadabad, Raymonds Textiles etc. The objective of the storage is to store the fabric in efficient manner and issue the fabric for cutting. After storing the fabrics in the storage, the QA team inspects the fabric by using 4 point system. For Arvind fabrics, they checked 10% of the lots and for non-Arvind fabrics; they checked 20% of the lots. The defect points are also specified by the buyers like for Levis, the average defect acceptance point is 18 points/ 100 sq. mt. individually and average defects acceptance point is 14 points/ 100 sq mt (roll wise). For other brands the 36 | P a g e
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average DPT is 24 points / 100 sq. mt. individually and and roll wise 20 points / 100 sq. mt. For storing they are using racks as per the buyer requirements. Like for making Levis garments, the fabrics must be stored in racks. For GAP, they put the rolls in Pyramid way, so that every part of the roll gets same pressure during storing so that no dimensional instability happen. For, Raymonds, they put the rolls in crisscross way. Objective is that the Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage, width and P.O shown in figure3.4. Layout of the fabric storage is shown in shown in figure3.2. The process flow of the fabric storage is from the fabric ordering till it is received shown in figure3.3
LAYOUT
Figure 3.2.Layout Of Fabric Storage
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Process Flow:
Indent is given by merchant
Covering of fabric with polybag to avoid dust
Issuing the fabric to cutting and sampling dept
Purchase Order is prepared
Fabric is sored in racks or pallets
Issue record is maintained
Details are fed in ERP softwre 'NOW'
Inspection of recieved rolls by 4 pt system
Packing List Verification is done
Shade/Shrinkag e/CSV tests are done
Figure 3.3.Process Flow Of Fabric Storage
Figure 3.4.Sections Of Fabric storage
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1 m2 fabric from every lot is cut and sends to the laboratory for the performance test. SO that, One can know about the shrinkage and shade variation in the received fabric. Shrinkage Test: 1m2 fabric is marked to find out the shrinkage with the help of marker plate in which marking is done at 15, 30 and 45 cms. Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube. The tube is sent for washing. After washing the shrinkage is measured. Shade Test: Shade grouping is done. The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied. And then the Shade variation is measured. After the test, shade numbers are given to the rolls. The data of the shrinkage of every roll is stored in the database and is provided to the sampling department during the creation of pattern and production of samples. We need to be careful in the shade identification thus a standard protocol needs to be followed (shown in figure3.5)
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Instructions for shade segregation at fabric store
END
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Figure 3.5 shade segregation details
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Fabric inspection Complete visual inspection is being done. There is no systematic recording. Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of the defects. If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects may not to be recorded. Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only. Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes. Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection. The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.( shown in figure3.6) 4 POINT SYSTEM Size of the defect
Penalty Points
Defects up to 3 inches
1
3 inches < Defects < 6 inches
2
6 inches < Defects < 9 inches
3
Defects more than 9 inches
4
Holes and Openings
4 Table no. 3.1. “4 point inspection”
Unit – points / 100 sq. yards Formula – (total pts. In the roll x 36 x 100) / Fabric length in yards x width in inches Major defects that are encountered are: 1. Weaving 2. Dyeing (patta, center, selvage, streaks) 3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
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A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the defect is measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for the evaluation of the fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric with more width, will have more area. Or we can say that a 72” wide fabric will have twice the area when compared to a 36” wide fabric. As the area of the fabric is more, this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects. When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again is a matter of agreement with buyer’s clothing manual. Some buyers working on low price prints can accept fabric with DHU as high as 40-44 points. 1) 20-25 points – Acceptable with most buyers 2) 25 & above 35 – Discussed with buyer & decided. 3) 35 & above – Normally considered as reject Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room when the request for the fabric comes. A standard procedure is followed for inspection shown in figure3.7
Figure 3.6.Fabric Inspection Process
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Flow Chart - Fabric Audit Flow chart
Kept on the rack for further process Figure 3.7.Process Flow of Fabric Storage
ï&#x192;&#x2DC; PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS
During storage, shade/shrinkage/width are not considered. No special storage for the fabric which are more stretchable. Nap direction and grain line are not considered during storage. Fabric relaxation is not done here. Racks are used for Levis only.
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CHAPTER 4 TRIMS STORAGE
Figure 4.1.Trim Storage
This department is similar to the Fabric storage department but the main difference is that the fabric storage department works for sourcing the fabrics alone as shown in figure 4.1 while the purchasing department works for the sourcing of accessories and trims. However, the working procedure is the same. The working is as follows:
The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular style to the purchasing department and the concerned person starts the further process and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for its production.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., is given by the 44 | P a g e
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merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.
This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and POâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this breakups are given. Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those materials. Objective: Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and sampling dept. Layout shown in figure4.2 and the process flow shown in figure4.3. LAYOUT
Figure 4.2.Layout Of Trim Storage
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS PROCEDURE:
Inspection of recieved material as per AQL 2.5
If OK, document material approved
Disposal plan for unused trims
Purchase order prepared by purchase dept
Trims card prepared
Make MRN with location and details are fed in SAP
TCR details informed to concerned persons
Material delivery by supplier
Counting & handover to storage dept
Submit invoice to accounts
Materials with trim cards are sent to issue area
Goods recieved at stores after Invoice verification
If OK, entry in inward register
Storage a/c buyer wise with approved trim cards
Issued to the factory stores by cross checking with PRPO
Purchase request from merchant
Figure 4.3.Process of Trim Storage
Functions
-
Negotiation of prices, quality, delivery place and time with the supplier
-
Prepare proposals according to the buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requirement
-
Selection of supplier for order
-
Co-ordination with the merchandiser, supplier, and finance department
-
Store the trims and accessories with approved trim card and issue to the factory departments. 46 | P a g e
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Lead time for Trims and Accessories The lead time is divided in two parts: 1. Production Lead-time
2. Transit Lead-time
In case of domestic accessories, the production lead-time is 7-10 days and the transit lead-time is 2 days. In case of imported accessories, the production lead-time is 3-4 weeks and the transit lead time is 7-10 days for air and 20-30 days for sea.
QUALITY CHECKINGS -
Thread- color, tex. , shade against shade card, verify with other boxes.
-
Zipper- teeth color, size, tape color, slider shape, slider movement, logo
-
Labels- care instructions, size, center out, color, barcode numbers
-
Elastic- width, color, holes, stretch ability, shrinkage
-
Price ticket- style no, barcode no, size, price, centre out, content
-
Buttons- types, holes, shape, logo, color, line/size, M/D test
-
Poly Bag- size, caution print, print direction, thickness, print quality, sealing
Quality Indicators: Green - accepted, Red â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Rejected Man Power: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper. Problems And Defects In This Department: Our Observations
Item wise bin cards or item wise stock in system is not available. Quality checking area and quarantined productâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s area is very small. Needles and labels are not kept safely, i.e. in cupboard and cotton bin box respectively.
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CHAPTER 5. LABORATORY Functioning of the Department The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approval. The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
(i) Fabric sourcing department
The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as soon as it receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics which they require for the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after they receive the small amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing department generally asks for are as follows.
Yarn count Construction of fabric Color fastness to washing Color fastness to crocking Dimensional stability to washing Fabric strength (tearing and bursting) Fabric weight 48 | P a g e
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(ii) Accessory Stores
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they sampling process starts and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists of tests that are generally done for accessories are as follows:
Button breaking test Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness Color fastness test for elastics Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability Corrugated box
(iii) Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out the tests. 49 | P a g e
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The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like
Type of test Urgency of the task Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally Duration of the tests that has to be carried out Time required in getting the proper and the required output Number of samples that has to be tested
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from any of the departments they proceed on priority basis. If the results are required very soon and the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample is taken first and then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received involves more number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests takes time about 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 days and then after receiving the proper output they note down the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department form where they received.
Objective: Tests are done on the fabric and trim to know their properties, strengths and reaction towards certain chemicals shown in figure5.1 and send the shade and shrinkage reports to the pattern making section.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS PROCESS FLOW Start
Fabric Sourcing
Accessory stores
Merchandising
Test
Test
Carry on test on fabric and garment as per buyer requirement
Skew
Appearance Attachment strength test
Tensile strength
Dimensional stability to washing
Color fastness test and elastic
Stretch and recovery
Lining fabrics
Color fastness to washing/ crocking/ water/perspiration
Dimensional Stability
pH measurement
Fabric Weight
End
Figure 5.1.Tests Performed In Lab
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On meeting buyer requirement, samples to be sent to lab to get approval
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Fabric Performance Test (FPT): (i) Shrinkage Test: -
They have to cut samples of 15 cm X 15 cm or 30 cm X 30 cm or 45 cm X 45 cm
-
Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube and sent for washing.
-
Then the samples are sent for washing and after washing, the lab team take the measurements and note down the shrinkage %.
-
The tests are done two times and average is taken from it and according to that percentage, the patterns are modified.
(ii) Shade Test: -
Shade grouping is done.
-
The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied.
-
Shade variation is measured.
-
These test reports are sent to the sampling dept. where using CAD, the patterns are created with the allowances.
(iii) Skew Test: -
Skew - When weft yarns are straight from one end to another end but angled across the width of fabric.
-
Skew % = (Angular division / full width of fabric) x 100
(iv) Tensile strength test: -
Sample needed = 6 x 4 inches
-
Gauge length = 3 inches
-
The sample is attached between the jaws of the machines and stretched until the sample gets distorted. Then the reading is taken at that time. 52 | P a g e
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(v) Tearing strength test: -
Tearing strength is the force required to tear a fabric.
-
Sample size = 100 x 75 mm
-
Testing area = 43 mm
-
According to the template, the fabric sample is cut. Pendulum lever is there
-
After placing the fabric, the pendulum is left for the free fall.
-
Pendulum weight = 6400 grams.
-
Tearing strength (grams) = Pendulum reading (%) x 64
(vi) Color Fastness to crocking: -
Crocking means rubbing.
-
The sample is placed on the machine and it is rubbed by the machine for 10 times.
-
Sample size = 5x5 cms.
-
After rubbing, generally some amount of color goes.
-
Then according to the grey scale, the color is matched. Grey scale = 5 / 4-5 / 4 / 3-4 / 3 / 2-3 / 2 / 1-2 / 1
-
According to the buyer specification, the points are measured.
-
This test is done on both dry and wet specimens.
(vii) Seam Properties: -
Sample size = 14 x 4 inches
-
Gauge length = 6 inches
-
For this test, the machine used for tensile strength is used.
-
Standard = 11 stitches /inch
-
Reading is calculated when the fabric is teared up to 6 inches.
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(viii) Weighing balance: -
GSM is calculated through this test.
-
A GSM cutter (diameter=11.3cm) is also there to cut the sample needed.
(ix) Stretch and Recovery test: -
Sample size (in cms) = (5 x 22), (4 x 22), (3 x 22 ), (2 x 22), (1 x 22)
-
These 5 specimens are taken for this test.
-
The sample is held on one end of the equipment.
-
At the other end, according to the sample, weight is hanged.
-
Sample is stretched up to a certain limit.
-
Then the fabric regains its normal structure.
-
Stretch percentage is measured on the meter.
(x) Color Fastness to perspiration -
For this test acidic and basic solutions are formed.
Acidic solution= 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydrochloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2 gms Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate Basic solution = 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydro chloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2 gms Sodium di hydrogen ortho phosphate dehydrate + NaOH (0.1 Normality until the pH becomes 8) -
Multifibre sample = 10 x 5 cms (acetate + nylon+ cotton+ polyester+acrylic+ wool)
-
2 Garment sample +2 Multifibre Sample are overlapped.
-
The 2 overlapped samples are dipped in the acidic and basic solution respectively for 30 min.
-
After 30 min, the samples are squeezed and are placed between the acrylic plates and 5 kg wt. and put inside the oven for 4 hrs.
-
Then the variation in the color due to acidic and basic solution is matched with the actual fabric. 54 | P a g e
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(xi) Color fastness to water: -
Same process is done for this test.
-
But except the acidic and basic solution, Grade- 3 water (distilled water) is used.
(xii) pH measurement: Done after the color fastness tests. American Standard -
Sample size - 5.5mm/10gm
-
Boiled in beaker at 90 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 92 degree C. Add 10 gms sample and leave it for 10 min.
-
Leave for cooling.
-
Remove the sample and put this water in the pH measuring container in which electrode is inserted.
-
The pH meter will show the pH of the fabric.
European Standard -
3 samples are tested.
-
Normality KCl or Grade 3 water is the medium which are taken in 3 conical flasks in which 3 samples of 2gms each are dipped.
-
They are placed on Textile lab shaker for 2 hrs (rpm30). It shakes the solutions in which the samples are placed.
-
Then, the solution is directly put in the pH meter which shows the pH.
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Fabric Performance Test (FPT): (xiii) Attachment Strength Test: (trims) In this test, the strength of the attachments are checked. For example,
-
strength of shanks, rivets, buttons, loops, kids decoration items are checked. Universal Unit â&#x20AC;&#x201C; kg
-
(unit is dependent on buyer)
U.S standard = 16 lbs European standard = 19N/10 sec (xiv) Appearance after wash: -
This test is related to the appearance of the garment after washing process.
-
The fabric is just observed properly and changes are noted down.
(xv) Dimensional Stability: -
Dimension of the fabric is measured before washing.
-
The fabric piece is sent to the washing department.
-
Again the dimension of the fabric is measured.
-
The changes in the dimensions of the fabric show how stable they are.
ď&#x192;&#x2DC; PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS
Lots of machines are there. So, direction or procedures for using the machine should be pasted.
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CHAPTER6.SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING
Figure 6.1.CAD and Sampling Department
In any export house, the sampling department shown in figure6.1 is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specification.Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average, proto, fit, correction,size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to the Sampling department head. Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sample garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and 57 | P a g e
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techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
Sampling is basically the process of producing few garment in order to match the various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. as soon as any order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the buyer. When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk production is going on. In these stage, the company checked the feasibility of the garment whether it is affordable or not and the company have the machineries to do the operations to make that particular style of garment. Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done. This department makes the samples of DENIM (Jeans) and KNITS (T-shirts & Lingerie). But the company only does bulk production of Denim. After getting knits approval from buyer, the bulk productions of knits are done in other units. Layout of sampling and pattern making department shown in figure6.2
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Figure 6.2.Layout of Sampling Department
TYPES OF SAMPLES DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE PROTO SAMPLE FIT SAMPLE WASH SAMPLE SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS) SEALER /PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE SIZESET SAMPLE TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE PILOT RUN SAMPLE GARMENT PACKAGE TEST (GPT) SHIPMENT SAMPLE
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DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE Sample before Proto Sample. Measurements are checked in this sample.
PROTO SAMPLE – The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This sample is made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of identifying the overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of the style. The garment is produced in the base size (32, 30, 34) as asked by the merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are made for proto sample one for SMS (color wise) and other for Presentation sample.
FIT SAMPLE – Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size and fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given by the buyer is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also done on the substitute fabric as proto sample. The main factors that are considered are: A. Perfect style. B. Quality. C. Measurement. Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in each fit.
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WASH SAMPLE – After wash a sample is send to the buyer then approval or comment procedure is taken by them. Then according to comments of buyer changes are done.
SALES MAN SAMPLE – These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer reaction to the various styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed indifferent retail stores and based on the average reaction, the buyer places orders for bulk production. At the factory the salesman samples are referred to as mini bulk.
SEALER SAMPLE OR PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE – Sealer sample is sent back by the buyer after the approval of size set sample. Seal is attached on this sample and it is maintained in the production department, finishing department and QA for the requirements and the quality parameters. Once the sealer sample is received industry is not allowed to make any changes in the garment and this sample should only be followed as the standard for production.
SIZE SET SAMPLE – In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment. If the fit sample is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and all sizes. Original trims and accessories are used. Four sets each of size are made. If not approved then again size set is made.
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TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE – The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the first bulk production. It is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to all sizes and all colors. In the base size the sample produced should be double. One set to the buyer. One set as a counter with the merchant. IF NOT APPROVED, then again top sample is produced. IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment starts.
PILOT RUN SAMPLE25 pieces are cut in each color and each size. 5-5 pieces on each size and each color are offered to the buyer’s QI’s.
SHIPMENT SAMPLEBefore the shipment buyer Q.A. picks up the carton randomly and checks for the quality. Shipment can only happen after of the approval over shipment sample. Role of Q.A in sampling department:
Tech packs review. Pattern check against tech pack (construction, no. Of parts, seam allowance, grain line.) Check print & embroidery, placement of color (according to tech pack). Check trims against tech pack. (Thread, label, trim fabric). He tells the stitching guidance to the supervisor against the tech pack.
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Review final spec. sheet.
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer
has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if
applicable). Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style no/ Size Store In the sampling department, there are many sub divisions i.e. CAD Section which consists of Pattern making and grading, Marker making and printing the pattern and cutting of that pattern. CUTTING Section where patterns are traced on the fabric and cut accordingly by cutters. SEWING Section where the cut parts of the fabric are stitched and become a full garment TRIMMING Section where the garments are trimmed after wash and trims are attached to it. INSPECTION Area where the quality checkers are checked the garments. The checking is done before wash and after wash also.
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CAD SECTION In this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer requirements. From pattern making to printing, the company uses the CAD software. There are two types of buyers â&#x20AC;&#x201C; One who give the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details, shrinkage % etc), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like Levis send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block they pattern master need not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of the patterns and get the print out. Other type of buyers who give only the measurements and tech pack where they only mentioned about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. These patterns are called block pattern. For this type of patterns, the pattern masters have to make the patterns by CAD software with the measurements the buyer given. And for these type of buyer, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern masters. According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns. Sometimes, some buyers gives wrong measurements, for that the company gives some suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the proposed tech pack or process given by the company.
PROCEDURE: First, the pattern masters get the pattern indent issued by the merchant where all the specifications given about the patterns. Along with patterns, the masters get the tech pack where all the measurements are given. Then according to the specification, they make the pattern (including notch mark, darts etc) and add shrinkage as per the requirements on the CAD software. They do the grading of the patterns then.
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After that they send the patterns to the marker making departments. The marker makers make the marker by placing the patterns in such a way so that the marker has the optimum utilization of patterns. After that, the marker is sent for printing. Here in this section, the marker makers gives the seam allowances and other details like GSM etc to the patterns and after that it is printed by the plotter. After that, they verify the patterns and send the patterns along with the ready sample to the buyer. If the buyer changes some part or want some alteration, the masters get the sample request again by the merchant and according to the specification they changes the patterns. The CAD Software used for making patterns and markers are: A. GERBER TECHNOLOGY (ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software) – mother software using it since 12 years. It is windows based software; satisfy their most demanding design and production requirements. AccuMark provides seamless integration with Gerber’s automated spreading, cutting and PLM systems for more effective work order management – helping customer to improve efficiency and optimize results. B. LECTRA CAD SOFTWARE more complicated than Gerber and it is dos based software. At the crossroads of design and production, patterns made by Lectra drives brand consistency in terms of fit and look.
C. TUKA TECH provides 2D as well as 3D pattern making and design technology. TUKA cad has multi-tasking & Multi-user operation ability, built-in e-mail & Automatic data maintenance. Also, it features Digitizing, First Pattern Design, Pattern Alterations, Auto patterns, Grading, Style Definitions & Various other features. The company recently use the trial version of TUKA 3D, from 2 months. Now they are thinking to implement it. The 3D software has the automatic dummy facility which helps in see the fit and fall of the pattern by inserting the pattern to the dummy.
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GRADING: After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the process of creating a range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern. MARKER MAKING: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. The efficiency of marker making in the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists of different size of same style of garment. For different type of appearance of fabric, they use different markers like solid marker (one way, two way directions), stripes, checks, colors. Each marker contains certain annotation like:Piece name Size Bundle Number Buyer Work Order Number Cut Number
PLOTTING: The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were used in applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the output. It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the maker making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like GSM, style no. etc on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there are two types of plotter. One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the 66 | P a g e
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automatic cutter plotters which prints the marker cut the patterns simultaneously which are used in cutting section of sampling department. The patterns cut manually also. Advantages of CADWastage reduction Minimum time consumption Increased accuracy Reduction in labor cost PROBLEMS FACED DURING USING OF THE SOFTWARE: They faced some problems when a complicated style has come. For that the company makes a knock off of the garment or style and check the feasibility. And if they faced software problems they directly mailed to the software manufacturing company and that company upgrades the software and solves the problems. Manpower: 2 CAD managers, 11 pattern masters, 1 data operator, 1 coordinator, 3 trimmers.
Figure 6.3.Cutting Section of Sampling Dept.
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After printing the marker and cutting those patterns shown in figure6.3, the ready patterns are come to the cutting section of sampling department. Here, the cutters check the measurements of the patterns and match it with the sample indent. The fabrics in small amount are then issued by the storage as per the requirement of sample indent given by the merchant. After that the fabrics are kept for 4 hours approximate for fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments. After that the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and placed the pattern on it. The length of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the patterns of a single size of a particular style. The no of lay is depending upon the requirements of buyers. It can be vary from 1 to 20 no. of lays. 20 lays are basically made for the salesmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sampling. After spreading manually, they traced the pattern on that fabric and cut accordingly by using straight knife and round knife. During the cutting, they also cut the notch marks. After that the parts will go for sewing. The output per day in cutting section is 40 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 50 garment parts / day. In the cutting section, DENIM and KNITS (t-shirts) are cut and go for sewing.
Manpower: 3 Cutters, 4 pattern selector & fabric selector.
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SEWING SECTION IN SAMPLING
Figure 6.4.Sewing Section Of Sampling
When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing process shown in figure6.4. For sewing the modular system is using here. One worker is producing the full garment i.e. He/she is attaching all parts of the garment and only for specialized technique there are other workers to do that particular operation. One worker is producing average 2 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 3 garments per day. Total output of sewing section is 70 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 100 garments / day (approx). The numbers of sewing machine are: 40 [34 sewing machines + 6 specialized machines]
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Loading plan: This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the loading plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and stitching is done.
STITCHING STEPS FOR PRODUCING DEMIN JEANS
STEPS
MACHINES
Divide cut parts.
Manually
Front fly stitching, front rise
3 thread overlock
Back yoke stitching, back rise
Feeder form DNLS
Back pockets hem
DNLS overlock
Attaching the back pockets on the back SNLS panel Pocket bag stitching ( Scoop pockets)
DNLS overlock
Attaching facing to the bags
3 thread flat lock
Front coin pocket attachment
DNLS overlock
Attaching back panel
DNLS
Front rise (J – stitch) on the fly and one SNLS more stitch on it Double fly attachment (right side front placement) Button / Zipper placement on the fly
Manually
Front rise ( to get clean finish)
DNLS overlock (distance between two needles is 1/8 ”)
Inseam attachment
FOA (DNLS) / 5 thread Overlock / DNLS (distance between two needles is 1/8 ”)
Side seam attachment
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thread overlock for close finish DNLS (distance between two needles is
Side lock stitch
3/16”, 1/8 ”, ¼” according to the style ) Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10, width =
Side seam busted chain stitch
½” , 3/8” SNLS or Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10
Bottom hem
–8 Width= 3/8”, 5/8”,
½”,
7/8”, 1”, 2”
according to the style Waistband attaching [waist band width = Manually
/
specialized
machine
1” i.e. the width of the waistband panel is (automatic) 2”] DNLS flat lock (distance between two
Waist band loop
needles is 1/4 ”) or DNLS (distance between two needles is 1/8 ” – 3/8”) Buttonhole (kasa or keyhole), bar tack
Specialized machines
Table 6.1.Stitching Steps for Denim jeans
After all the operation, the denims are then trimmed and sent to washing department for washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After wash the garments are directly come to the sampling department for further process.
Manpower: 30 workers, 1 supervisor, 1 in-charge. FINISHING SECTION IN SAMPLING After washing, the samples are coming to finishing section that is also called as trimming sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets, shanks, buttons, tags etc. are attached with the garments. After that, the garments are sent to the inspection area for the quality checking. Man power: 4 workers, 1 in-charge 71 | P a g e
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INSPECTION AREA IN SAMPLING
After stitching, the garments are come to the inspection area for stitching quality checking of the garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it with the sample indent. If there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements, they send the garment for remaking. If the sample is ok it is sent for washing. After washing, the samples are coming to sampling department for trimming and after that it is sent to inspection area for checking. The checkers check the small detailing about the garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100% checking of the samples are done here.
Manpower: 6 quality checkers The quality parameters they checked here: Grain line Sample indent information Shade Shrinkage % Measurements Tech pack The placement of the panels, Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tags etc.
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CHAPTER 7. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Figure 7.1.Cutting Department
Cutting department shown in figure 7.1 is the first step to production. After getting the bulk order from the buyers, the fabrics are sourced and kept into the storage. The cutting department then gets the cutting request from the merchant and they send fabric request to the storage department and after that the storage department issues the fabric. The objective of the cutting department is to spread the fabric lays, cut the garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the panels. The major cost of the garment is the fabric, accounting for almost 60% of the total cost so it becomes very essential that actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by scientific method and procedures. Layout of the Cutting Department is shown in figure7.2
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In this department, desired layers are cut using straight knife machines, band knife machines and automatic cutting machines. The number of patterns cut depends upon the length of the fabric lay and making patterns of the layers. Once the cutting operations are finished, immediately the cut parts go to next operations.
Objective: Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy. Ensuring 100% quality in cutting. 100% issue of all the parts to sewing section. The S.O.P is shown in figure7.3 and the activity flow is shown in figure7.4 followed in the cutting department.
LAYOUT
Figure 7.2.Layout Of Cutting department
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Standard Operation Procedure
yes Is correction required?
Make alternate patterns
Randomly check the fabric while Spreading for: Marker edge parallel to selvedge. Alignment of fabric Tension Count
A
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Feed to sewing floor as required Figure 7.3.The Process Flow In Cutting Dept.
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ACTIVITY FLOW:
Marker Making
Knee level marking
Embroidery
Fabric relaxation
Cut Panel auditing
Fusing
Spreading
Numbering
Sorting
Labelling
Cutting
Bundeling
Figure 7.4. Activity Flowchart of the Cutting Dept.
ď&#x201A;§ MARKER MAKING: CAD software is used for marker making as well as pattern making. The software used here is Lectra, Astor, Gerber. Using CAD, grading is also done if required. The patterns are not created here. The sampling department sends the patterns to the cutting department, and with those patterns, the pattern masters in CAD section create the marker. The marker is then made combining patterns of different sizes. Efficiency of the marker changes with the shape of the patterns. After marker making, the plotter give the print out of that marker which is going to use for cutting that particular style. The average efficiency is 85%.
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SOFTWARE - GGT- GERBER, LECTRA, ASTOR VERSON- 8.5, 8.2 ROLES OF PATTERN MAKERPATTERN DESIGN PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MARKER PLANING
PATTERN DESIGN The department receives a pattern request form sampling department every time a new pattern is to be made.
Every time there is a change or amendment in the pattern, the pattern version alphabet is changed. For example from A to B.
There is a team that works exclusively on making templates for production.
DIGITIZING
Digitizing is done on an electronic digitizing board by pasting pattern pcs on it.
The digitized patterns are amended, graded and used for making costing markers also bulk production markers.
This is the pattern that is used for making templates also.
Amendments are then made on this digitized pattern and directly printed; this reduces work of manual pattern maker as well as improved department efficiency. There is an input menu on the board, which is used to digitize pattern pieces.
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT Development of product is made according to requirement of buyer. Example- Development of - Patches on pocket position, Yoke high, Pocket high, Side Seam/stitch label. MARKER PLANING
Marker planning is done to reduce wastage of the fabric as well as use the available fabric most efficiently.
Auto marker is used on software REDTREE EAZY DESIGN. There are 4 reasons by which marker planning may be increase or decrease:-
1. Comment of buyer. 2. Grain line. 3. Seam allowance 4. One way or two way direction map. 5. Parts jumbling Manpower: 3 Fabric relaxation:
Figure 7.5.Fabric Relaxation
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After issuing the fabric from storage, the rolls are kept in the cutting department after relaxation as shown in figure7.5. It is done for the following reasons: -
To produce quality product
-
To get the dimension stability of the garment.
-
To avoid the measurement changes after washing
Relaxation for the stretch material is for 24hrs. Relaxation of the normal materials is for 10-12 hrs. Manpower: 10 SPREADING:
Figure 7.6.Spreading
Spreading shown in figure7.6 is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table, cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting department. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric required by a single marker. A spread may consist of Single ply or multiple plies the weight of the ply is limited by fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method and vertical capacity of the spreader. End cutters are used for spreading. After fabric relaxation for 24 hours, the fabric is then spread on the table according to the nap direction of the fabric. For denim spreading direction is FOW. The marker is spread over the lay and cutting is done. The laying is done shade wise.
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Factors affecting spreading process: Set up i.e. loading and threading fabric through the spreader. Laying out of fabric: It involves laying out of fabric in desired no. of layers. i.e. face up/down/face to face. Etc First of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the cutting table using an adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and subsequently the other plies are laid. The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading Machine. While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine gives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the dimension of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas lay height depends on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine. Man Power: 8
DEFECTS: o Slack tension: lesser problem contains excess fabric in each ply. Cutting a slack spread may create over sized pieces. It causes in accuracies in assembling and waste fabric. o Ply alignment: accuracy with which fabric edges, both length and width are aligned during spreading. o Static electricity: results from friction among materials and spreading equipment. Fabrics from manufactured fibers may have static problems.
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Problems occurrence Absentees or man power issues. Less spreading tables due to which 10-20 min is wasted. And within this time 10-15 layers can be spread. Machine repairs, wastage of 2-3 days. Delay in Relaxation due to roll delay.
Improvements Requirement of Extra spreading tables, by which delay in sequence operations can be avoided Requirement of On-Spot Machine repairs. In time fabric roll has to be supplied, which helps in good relaxation & garment quality.
LABELLING: The lay which is to be cut is labeled by stickers according to the pattern placement. It is done bt the auto labeling machine. This makes the auto cutter to cut easily.
CUTTING :
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay shown in figure7.7 following the pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc. that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine are used. It is a non-portable cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are kept aside as and when they are cut. 82 | P a g e
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STEPS: o Laying marker, fixing lays with the help of gum tape o Cutting o Checking each panel or the bundle of each part o Removing any one piece, checking size and then passing o Bundling all parts of each sizes together o Put serial number on each panel with the help of silver mark ink o Group bundle of 20 pieces by using the rubber bands o Maintain record of each bundle o Load the bundles for sewing Manpower: Cutting (7 people) Auto cutter (2 people) Re cutting (2 people) Cutting loaders (2 people)
Figure 7.7.MorganTecnica, Labeling & cutting m/c
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2015
CUT PART AUDITING :
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade variations etc. that are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. This is spotted out during garment finishing or washing. There are some common cutting defects. They are: Miss notch Selvedge Uneven cut Miss cut Over notch Shape off Rugged cut
Man power: Panel checking (5 people) Panel marker (4 people)
NUMBERING: In this dept, all the cut parts are given the style number in series, to avoid the mismatch during sewing and helps in increasing the production. Man Power: 8 people 84 | P a g e
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ď&#x201A;§ FUSING : Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated
from the bundle. The fusing material is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between two paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time. Fabric is used to the fusing layer at the temperature of 70 0 C. fusing machine has two rollers. First roller is heated 710 C and back roller at 700 C. the fabric is passed through the machine and fabric get fused. The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled. Man power: Fusing (8 people) Piping (2 people)
ď&#x201A;§ EMBROIDERY:
Figure 7.8. Embroidery Section
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This operation shown in figure7.8 is optional, only for the certain style and if the buyer asks for it. The capacity of this machine is 18 pieces at once. For embroidery, they take a panel of the style where the embroidery needed, basically in back pockets. Then they attach the panel to the frame. Frame size may vary from 9 to 45 sizes (9, 15, 18, 21, 45 sizes) as per the buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s requirements. The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for Embroidery as stated in the production process. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the embroidery. Man Power: 2 people
ď&#x201A;§ SORTING & BUNDLING: As shown in figure 7.9 the pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations in the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using ticket gun. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly line from start to end. Man Power: sorting (8 people) Helpers (8 people) Bundle movers (2 people)
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Figure 7.9.Numbering, Bundling & Audit sections
POWER CONSUMPTION: On the floor: 20 fans, 120 lights CAD section: 2 lights, 1 air condition, 4 computers, 1 plotter, 1 photocopy machine Embroidery: 22 lights, 4 fans, 1 computer
FINDINGS: As the automatic spreading machine is not in use, it creates problems for auto cutting machine as the markers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t spread lays equally along the selvedge and the production is also less. There should be another operator who knows to operate the auto spreading machine. Mobile rack is there, but not in use. Cut parts are not stored according to the shade/shrinkage/width wise. Shade wise ratio cutting is not done.
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CHAPTER 8.)SEWING DEPARTMENT
Figure 8.1.Sewing Department
OBJECTIVE: To produce the garment by sewing together the various pattern pieces of that style in least possible time and least possible defects. The dominant process in garment industry is sewing shown in figure8.1, still the best way of achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams. It is basically divided into ten lines, one of which is dedicated to the training purpose and others are dedicated for the production. In between there are inspection tables , one after back section another one after front section , next after waistband is stitched and last is the end of line checking. All of them 88 | P a g e
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are doing 100 % inspection as the operators are new and they are not consistent in quality and thus increasing labor cost as well as throughput time of the garment. Each line has a supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line himself, these are also not trained properly and thus are not confident on implementing new suggestion in Layout or man power planning. No floaters are kept for the handling of absenteeism. If absenteeism is there then people from other lines are taken or people from the training line are taken. The sewing process at the Mysore road plant is fully following the Progressive Bundle System.
Description about line: Denim floor consists of 14 sewing lines shown in figure 8.2 with 40-50 workstations (sewing machines) in each line and in each line there are three check-points. Most machines are from VI.BE.MAC, Italy and they have automated operations like Back pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach and bottom hemming.
The machines are arranged in straight line; hence progressive bundle system is working. There are two line are setup parallel to form a line. There are two inline check-points (one check-point is put when the front is complete and the other is put when the back is complete) and one end-line, when the front and back are joined and the garment is complete.
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Figure 8.2.Sewing Lines
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Figure 8.3.Layout Of Sewing Lines
Each line of the sewing shown in figure 8.3 has got various operational breakdowns which consist of workstations, checking tables, various sewing machines and auditing tables. Figure8.4 gives the description about the S.O.P of the sewing department.
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CAPACITY DETAILS OF SEWING: S.NO
ITEM
DETAILS
1
NO.OF.SEWING LINE
13
2
TYPE
OF
PRODUCTION STRAIGHT
SYSTEM 3
LINE
BUNDLE SYSTEM
NO.OF.MACHINES
PER 40-48
LINE 4
NO.ON.OPERATORS/LINE
40-45
5
TOTAL
625
.NO.OF.OPERATORS 6
AVERAGE
PRODUCTION 8300
/DAY 7
EFFICIENCY
OF
THE 40-45%
FACTORY 8
NO.OF.SUPERVISORS
14
9
NO.OF.PRODUCTION
2
MANAGER
Table No.8.1 Capacity Details of wet process
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PROGRESSIVE
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS Sewing Standard Operation Procedure
A
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS A
Figure 8.4 Process flow of sewing
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS OPERATION BREAKDOWN: S. NO.
2015
Table No.8.2 Operational breakdown of sewing section
OPERATION
MACHINE
WORK STATION
BACK 1
HEM BACK PKT MOUTH
SNLS
1
2
DECO ST ON BK PKT
SNLS
1
3
ATTACH BACK POCKET
SNLS
2
4
TOP ST ON BACK POCKET
SNLS
2
5
ATTACH BACKYOKE
5T O/L
1
6
TOP ST ON BACKYOKE
FOA
1
7
ATTACH BACKRISE
5T O/L
1
8
TOP ST ON BACKRISE
FOA
1
9
BARTACK ON BACK
BT BROTHER
1
SCOOP PKT 10
HEM COIN PKT
DNLS
1
11
ATTACH COIN PKT
DNSB
1
12
CLOSE PKT BAG
5T O/L
2
FRONT 13
SERGE FRT FLY & FRT RISE
3T O/L
1
14
E/S ON LEFT FLT
SNLS
1
15
SEW J’’ STITCH
DNLS
1
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ATTACH FRONT RISE
DNSL
1
17
ATT PKTBAG TO SCOOP
SNLS
1
18
T/S ON SCOOP PKT
DNLS
2
19
LOCK PKT BAG
SNEC
1
ASSEMBLY 20
ATTACH INSEAM
5T O/L
2
21
TOP ST ON INSEAM
SNCS
2
22
ATTACH SIDE SEAM
5T O/L
2
23
SEW CORD STITCH
DNLS
2
24
BOTTOM HEM
JUKI BTM
1
25
ATTACH LEBAL
SNLS
1
26
ATTACH ELASTIC END
SNLS
1
27
ATT W/B PNLS ENDS
SNLS
1
28
STAY ST ON W/B
SNEC
2
29
CLOSE W/B
DNCS
2
30
JOINT & PREPARE LOOPS
SNLS
1
31
LOOP ATTACH
BT BROTHER
2
32
W/B END BACK
SNLS
1
TOTAL
43
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Labeling It is very important that consumers be given accurate information on how to take care of their garments so they can make informed purchase decisions concerning the care characteristics of competing products and the product damage caused by the improper cleaning procedures can be avoided by consumers and cleaners alike. Some of the care label shown in (figure 8.5) informationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s are 1. Whether the item should be washed or dry cleaned 2. Whether the item is colorfast or should be washed separately 3. Whether it should be washed by hand or machine 4. Whether the item is permanent press or needs ironing 5. Whether it can be washed in hot water 6. The temperature setting for the iron : hot , warm, or cold 7. The type of bleach to use, whether chlorine or no chlorine. 8. Whether the item will shrink and how much. Care instructions provided to consumers carry an implied guarantee that in all respects a garment will stand up under the conditions of laundering or dry-cleaning that are specified. This implied guarantee covers all component materials: their colorfastness, appearance, dimensional stability, workmanship that is, the seams will not open up or the garment loses its shape and so on. It also carries the style number of the particular brand or garment and size of the garment.
Figure 8.5.Wash Care Label Standards Followed
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS Machine types and the needles used in sewing NEEDLE M/C TYPE
TYPE
SIZE
Edge Cutter M/c
DBx1
14,16,18
Kaj
DPx5
11,14,16,18,21
Over Lock M/c
DCx1
14,16,18,21
Single + Double Needle +
Flat Lock + FOA + Chain UYx128 / Lock
TV x3
14,16,18,19,20,21
UYx128 / Pocket Setter + Deco M/c
TV x3 MR
14,16,18,19,20,21
Waist Band
TVx5
14,16,18,21
Kansai W/B Pocket Hem
DVx57
14,16,18,21
Pckt
DPx17
14,16,18,21
Bottom Hemming
UO180GS 14,16,18,21
keyhole kaja
DOx558
Bar tack + Button + Welt
14,16,18
(MR) loop setter m/c
DPx5
4.0,4.5
(MR) pocket setting m/c
TVx3
4.5,5.0
Saddle stitch
CP x 12
21
Table No.8.3 Machine types and needles
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Reports: There are various types of files and records maintained in the sewing section at different stages. They are discussed below: Line Balancing File Hourly Production per Operator Incoming Bundles Hourly Production Line wise Daily Production Line wise Production status (Style wise) Production and Attendance Details File Daily Factory Status Report (DFSR) Findings/Problems
No Systematic machine sequence. Regular Machine problems. Cutting no feeding, due to which next operation is stopped. Trims delay. Electrical problem. Absentees. Others – delay from embroidery in the pocket section. Pocket decoration thread breakages due to low quality. Back pocket attach – Needle problem. Pocket special machine- Stopped due to no feeding and facing mark. Frequent Operators change. Top edge cutter – Q placement. In FOA- Skeep, thread cutter, holder problem. In double needle – Trimming problem, thread breakage due to time setting not proper.
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ď&#x192;&#x2DC; Minimum of 3 idle machines are placed in each sewing line, which should be placed in store.
Suggestions Alternate solutions to regular Machine problems. Systematic machine sequence should be maintained. Feeding should not be delayed. Trims to be supplies at necessary time. Alternate solutions for electrical problem. In advance garment to be supplied from the embroidery section. Pocket decoration thread should be of good quality. In double needle machine proper time setting has to be done. Idle machines placed in sewing line should be placed in store.
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CHAPTER 9.)INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING
Figure 9.1. Industrial Engineering Department
The IE department shown in figure 9.1 plays one of the key roles in the garment industry. The main objective is to: Analyze the sample/technical pack Line arrangement The line arrangement and production capacity is achieved by work study, time study and allowances. Thus SMV is improved. The work study is measured by method study and work measurement. Time study is used for all the planning and control systems. Production target= 480 min/ standard time
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Operation bulletin: It is a format prepared by IE department, which gives information about type of machines, attachments, total no. of operations, time taken for each operation, total time taken to make a garment and efficiency of style. Batch setting: Batch setting is the process of machines with suitable folders, needle and with other setting to carry out operation in sequence according to operation bulletin into various section. It is to set the operator to achieve desired standards and various reference samples are made to make sure that desired quality can be achieved. Roles & responsibilities: Preparing the Operation Bulletin Making the Layouts with best Material movement / Flow Machinery arrangement for the Line Batch setting Batch setting check list Line Balancing GSD method implementation Time study Motion study Costing Make suggestions on Constructions changes & Appearance 102 | P a g e
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Daily MIS Process / Method improvement Method auditing Performance evaluation of the Lines Operator Skill matrix Eliminating Non value added things along with Plant Manager Identify and reduce the Wastage % on Trims like Threads along with the Plant Manager Standard minute value There are two SMVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s provided for a style in Arvind: Costing SMV Actual SMV Actual SMV: The actual SMV is arrived based on actual operation bulletin. Here the automatic pocket creaser and Pocket setter is considered wherever possible. The batch Efficiency or Performance is calculated based on the Machine SMVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, as per actual SMV not the costing SMV. Standard allowed minutes: The SAM is calculated by the formula: SAM= single sewing cycle*20% personal fatigue*15% m/c delay*2%contingency allowance
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Method of costing When tech pack comes to merchant, he fixes the same and sends it to IE department. IED does the feasibility analysis called as Cut and Make charges, which means whether a particular order can be accomplished in the factory or not. There are number of tools and techniques which are used in by industrial engineers to establish an effective production system in the company. Most of the job profile falls under following list. Knowledge about various sewing production systems Knowledge of all types of Sewing machine necessary for the company Time study (Cycle timing) Motion analysis of the operations Operation break down Preparation of Operation Bulletin SAM Calculation M/C Layout and Work station layout Setting up new line for a particular style Production estimation of a line Work Sampling WIP Control Line Balancing Capacity study Cost estimation of a garment Developing and Maintaining Skill Matrix Calculating Thread Consumption Work aids, Guide and Attachment Performance rating
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CHAPTER 10.)DENIM WASHING OBJECTIVE:
To give different effects to the garments by various wet and dry
processes as well as to clean the garments. Washing department plays an important role in the garment Industry. It gives a special effect and good appearance to the garment because of washing price of the garment differs. There are different types of washing. The washing section head receives the recipe and desired finish in the garment from the merchandiser who gets this specification from the buyer. According to the wash recipe, the washing section prepares 3-5 samples and sent to the buyer. The buyer approves one of the samples. After buyer approves the sample, a lot is washed (bulk washing). 2 samples out of the bulk lot are sent to the buyer again for approval. Once it is passed the bulk washing starts for the entire style production (same recipe as made by the washing). When the garments are received it is checked if the garment is soft or hard. If the fabric is soft then the garment is just washed with softeners. If the garment is hard then the garment undergoes a proper wash cycle. The wash cycle starts with the process of de-sizing this is the process of removal of starch from the garment. The starch makes the garment stiff Total area - 59,000 sq. Feet. (Dry Process + Wet Process) Washing capacity -16, 50,000 per month
Washing mainly can be categorized into: 1. Wet Processing 2. Dry Processing
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Both of these processes are at two separate areas and comprises of various sub processes.
Standard Operation Procedure of Washing Figure10.1 shows the S.O.P of the washing section
WASHING
DRY PROCESS
WET PROCESS
LASER
PP SPRAY
HANDSANDING
SEMI WASH
SANDBLASTING
GRINDING
CRINKLING
FINAL WASH
RESIN
OZONE
CURING
DISPATCH
Figure 10.1.Washing Procedure
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SEMI WASH
a) Enzyme Wash c) Stone Wash
2015
b) Bleach Wash d) Sponge Wash
DRY PROCESS The distressed jeans that we see around everywhere undergo a wide variety of wet as well as dry treatments to get the desired effects. Here I shall try to explain some basic Denim Dry Processing techniques. In the creation of distressed jeans, dry processes play a very important role and hence important to understand. Destroying denims is as much an art as it is a technique. Sometimes a bit of local tint staining is being done into the local areas to emphasize the lighter parts. The jeans then go for a washing with pumice stone to blend in the whiskering and tinting / over dyeing. No one other than those who work for these companies knows the exact techniques or the abrasives and chemicals used to achieve certain special effects. Layout of Dry Process section shown in figure 10.2.
Figure 10.2.Layout Of Dry process (Washing Dept)
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Following are the processes in dry processing area: 1. LASER The laser fading process is acknowledged as a very strong alternative compared to the conventional physical and chemical processes used for aged-worn look on denim fabrics. In this study, the beams from a CO2 (10.6 µm) laser was used for the fading of denim fabrics. The effects of laser beam on the physical properties of denim fabrics such as tensile strength, tear strength, abrasion resistance, and static and kinematic friction coefficient were investigated and optimum process conditions were determined. In order to investigate the effect of laser fading treatment on color change, the fabrics were washed and color efficiency, L a b values and yellowness index were measured after washing process. In terms of both color and mechanical properties, it is found that 100 and 150 μs pulse times are suitable for laser fading process of denim fabrics Figure10.3 showing the procedure of laser operation and figure10.3 d showing the laser designs on denim jeans.
SMV Of Whiskering for a Particular Style WHISKERING ACTIVITEIS
TIME IN (SEC)
PICKING
3
POSTIONING
7
SCRAPPING
45
UNLOAD
3
TOTAL
116
BUYERLEVI’S
LOGWOOD-511
Table No.10.1 SMV of Whiskering
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PROCESS FLOW OF LASER OPERATION
a) Figure 10.3.a. Laser Machines
b) Figure 10.3.b. Operator Inserting Designs In The System
c)
Figure 10.3.c. Laser Movement on Denim During The Process
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Figure 10.3.d. Effects Of Laser On Denim Jeans
2. HAND SANDING Hand sand is step which is generally being done in rigid form of garments to get distress look shown in figure 10.4. Locations can be front thigh & back seat or its can be overall / global application as per Standard. Emery paper is being used to scrape the garments in particular placement & design. Emery paper comes in different number generally start from 40 till 600 and above , higher the number finer the emery paper, lower the coarseness of the paper. In garment industry from 180, 220, 320 & 400 number papers are most popular & widely used. Purpose of doing this process is make used worn out look to the garments. The most important factor is to select right number of paper according to the fabric strength & intensity need. Feathering / merging white sanded part to dark blue area in such way that it should look natural & not artificial.
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Scraping can be done on inflated rubber balloons for better effect (horizontal or vertical itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s up to operatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s convenience), even it can done plain wooden board of garment size & hand pressure should be uniform in order to get better results. Hand sanding must be started from intense part & feathering out on less intense part gradually. One garment must by do by one operator only to have balance intensity on both the legs.
Figure 10.4. Hand Scrapping
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SMV Of Hand Scrapping For a Particular Style HAND SCRAPPING ACTIVITEIS
TIME IN (SEC)
PICKING
5
POSTIONING
10
AIRBLOW
9
SCRAPPING
156
AIR RELEASE
3
UNLOAD
5
TOTAL
188
BUYER- LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
STYLE-LOGWOOD 511
Table No.10.2.SMV of Hand Scrapping
TACKING Tacking is a process which is being done by swift tag machine with the help of plastic or nylon tag pins in rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waistband, bottom hems, back pocket & front pocket corners etc. after completing wash cycle, it must be removed from garment before making softening shown in figure10.5. Table No.10.3 SMV of Tacking
TACKING TIME ACTIVITEIS
(SEC)
PICKING
2
POSTIONING=TACK 10 NO. OF TACK
10
UNLOADING
2
TOTAL
24
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Figure 10.5.Tacking
3. Resin Spray This process is given to the garment when the garment is in the dry stage shown in figure10.6 .This is given to denim garment for the purpose of making the denim fabric stiff so that the crinkles (3d effect) can be formed prominently. There are 3 stages in resin spraying: Preparation of the chemical Application of the chemical Cross linking of the chemical From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require calculating the SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost same. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the operator.
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Figure 10.6. Resin Wash
4. CRINKLING AND CURING For high quality 3D crunching / whiskers shown in figure10.7, the two most important criteria are temperature and control of cycle. Presses should be equipped with highheat, cast aluminum heads or with supplementary electrical heaters to give a processing temperature of approximately 150 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 180 degree centigrade. This temperature is crucial as it starts the curing process and controls the effects. This process consists of passing the infra red light on to the jeans for 6 mins. The jeans produced by this process is dependent upon the wavelength of light .normally 2.4m will be suitable for this process .the garment is put in a mannequin which is hung vertically and the mannequin will be revolving around its own. Using resin on garments shown in figure10.8 is only one major danger is leaching of free formaldehyde if resin is not cured properly due to any parameters being ignored in
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a process i.e. Temperature and time. Hence for dealing with resin application skilled man power is pre requisite.
ds wdqwdq
Figure 10.7.Crinkling
Figure 10.8.Curing
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SMV OF CRINKLING AND CURING FOR A PARTICULAR STYLE CRINKELING+CURING(IR) TIME ACTIVITEIS
(SEC)
PICKING
5
AIRBLOW
5
IN
NO.OF CRINKELING
18
CURING
240
OUT
4
AIR RELEASE
2
UNLOAD
5
TOTAL
333 LOGWOOD -
BUYER- LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
511
Table No.10.4 SMV of Crinkling and Curing
If one person makes crinkling then it will takes almost 333 sec for a particular style. In this process two activities are variable no. Of crinkle and curing time and rest are almost same .By measuring these two time we can calculate SMV for a particular style. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the operator.
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WET PROCESS Denim washing is the aesthetic finish given to the denim fabric to enhance the appeal and to provide strength. Dry denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a denim fabric that is not washed after being dyed during its production.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to that which artificially distressed denim attempts to replicate. With dry denim, however, such fading is affected by the body of the person who wears the jeans and the activities of their daily life. This creates what many feel to be a more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim. Layout of the wet process area is shown in figure10.9. Following are the processes in wet washing:
Figure 10.9.Layout of Wet Processing (washing dept.)
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1. GRINDING Grinding is the process of rupturing the surface of the denim to give it a torn and rash look. There is a special tool called grinding pencil used for the grinding. On the front end there is a grinded stone (shown in figure10.10) rotating in normal rpm, hence when in touch with the surface of the fabric, gives it a torn effect.
Figure 10.10.Grinder
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2. PP spray This process is given to the garment when the garment is in the dry stage shown in figure10.11 .This is given to denim garment for the purpose of blocking the indigo. There are 3 stages in PP spray:
Preparation of the chemical Application of the chemical Cross linking of the chemical From above activities only spray time is variable .so whenever we require to calculate the SMV for a particular style we need to note down the spray time and rest are almost same. This value is at 100% efficiency because we have not considered allowance and rating of the operator.
Figure 10.11.PP Spray
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3. Semi wash There are two types of semi washing in wet process:
I.
Mechanical wash
A. Stone wash B. Micro sanding
II.
Chemical wash
A. Denim bleaching B. Enzyme wash C. Acid wash I.
Mechanical wash
These washes are done mechanically with the help of the machines and an external agent is required to give the desired effect without getting dissolved in the process. A.)Stone wash In the process of stone washing shown in figure10.12, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look. Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional. The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment .Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn.
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Process cycle:
Figure10.12 Process cycle of stone wash
Selection of stone
Stone should be selected of the proper hardness, shape, and size for the particular end product. It should be noted that large, hard stones last longer and may be suited for heavy weight fabrics only. Smaller, softer stones would be used for light weight fabrics and more delicate items. Stone wt. /fabric wt. = 0.5 to 3 /1 .It depends on the degree of abrasion needed to achieve the desired result. Stones can be reused until they completely disintegrate or washed down the drain. Thus pumice stones shown in figure10.13 are the best for the stone wash.
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Figure 10.13. Pumice Stone for Stone Wash
Problems caused by stones:
1- Damage to wash machineries and garment due to stone to machine and machine to stone abrasion 2- Increase in labor to remove dust from finished garments. 3- Water pollution during disposal of used liquor. 4- Back staining and re deposition. Back staining or Re-deposition:
The dye removed from denim material after the treatment with cellulose or by a conventional washing process may cause "back staining or "re depositionâ&#x20AC;?. Recoloration of blue threads and blue coloration of white threads, resulting in less contrast between blue and white threads. Remedy of back staining
-
Adding dispersion/suspension agent to wash cycle.
-
Intermediate replacement of wash liquor.
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Using alkaline detergent like sodium per borate with optical brightener as after wash.
Limitations of stone washing:
Quality of the abrasion process is difficult to control Outcome of a load of jeans is never uniform, little percentage always getting ruined by too much abrasion. The process is non-selective. Metal buttons and rivets on the jeans in the washing machines get abraded. This reduces quality of the products and life of equipment, and increases production costs. Stones may turn into powder during the process of making the garment grayish in color and rough too. Provides rougher feel than enzyme wash. Stone may lead the harm to the machine parts.
B.)Micro sanding In this fabric treatment process, a series of cylindrical rolls in a horizontal arrangement, either wrapped with an abrasive paper or chemically coated with an abrasive, are used to create a soft, suede hand. The denim is pulled over the face of the sand rollers creating a raised surface finishing. Some color reduction is experienced. II.
Chemical Wash
Chemical wash is the type of wash in which a chemical, reducing agent, coloring agent or any of the solvent is mixed with the water to get the desired effect on the denim A.)Denim bleaching In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition. 123 | P a g e
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Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time. Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlor or after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully sorted before processing for color uniformity. B.)Enzyme wash It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes that eat away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose. When the desired color is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final rinsing and softening cycle. The effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are--1.
Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable
2.
Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
3.
Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion to garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes. Garment load size of the machine is 35-40 jeans per machine and it cannot be overloaded
Types of enzyme are: 1-nuetral enzyme 2-acid enzyme 3-cold wash
In neutral enzyme process we use denim ax PB. And this process is carried out at 55 degree and maintained at a ph of 7. In acid enzyme process we use enzyme called Biotouch. And temperature 55 degree at PH 4.5 In cold enzymatic process we use enzyme called Airocell and this process is carried out at room temperature up to 10 min for 2 hours depending upon the characteristics of fabrics. 124 | P a g e
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C.)Acid wash (Marble/ Moon Wash/ Snow Wash)- This finish gives indigo jeans sharp contrasts. The process is achieved by soaking pumice stones in chlorine and letting these stones create contrast. D.)Sponge wash Fabric is loaded into machine with 14 liter of water and 600-800 gram of the potassium paramagnet soaked in foam for at least 10-15min. When the fabric is rotated with sponge shown in figure10.14 and figure10.15 then it randomly touch the garment ultimately after final washing it will give a faded effect.
Figure 10.14.Sponge Used for Sponge Wash
Figure 10.15. Semi wash and Final Wash Loader
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4. HYDRO EXTRACTOR 80-100 pieces are loaded in a high rotating machine shown in figure10.16 for 4-6 min .due to centrifugal force water is extracted from the garment so that it might take less time while drying. Total machine
=5
Capacity
=8-100
Man power
=2/machine and two helper
HYDRO EXTRACTION ACTIVITEIS
TIME IN (SEC)
LOADING
280
DOOR CLOSED
13
RUNNIGN
300
DOOR OPEN
5
UNLOAD
155
TOTAL
753
Table No.10.5 SMV of Hydro Extraction
RECOMMENDATION Machine runs on an average 5min. During running time both the operator are doing nothing except standing near the machine. One complete cycle takes around 10 min i.e. in one hour 30 min they are idle and in one shift 240 min means 50 % time they are idle. Men operator to be employed. They can be asked to bring the trolley during idle time from final wash as final wash operator remains busy and have to handle 3-4 machines. 126 | P a g e
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Figure 10.16.Hydro Extractor
5. Final washing Final washing involves the last wash of the garment which removes all the chemicals left and also used as a softener to make the fabric feel soft. This process is done in big washing machines.
6. Drying This is the last process of washing in which the drying of the garment takes place with the warm air blown in the machines
Special Cases of Wet Process 1. Ozone wash This wash is done by oxidizing the denim jeans so that it could get the used look and faces no further oxidization.
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2. Puncture Patches These puncture patches are stickered on the back side of the denim on the place where the torn area is present so that skin is not visible and also add an effect to the denim jeans.
Methods of Washing Process There are generally various ways of washing according to the demand of various buyers but generally the following two methods are most active in denim washing:
METHOD-1
METHOD-2
Receiving garments from sewing
Receiving garments from sewing
Whisker effect by laser
Whiskering by laser
Tacking
Whiskering
Tying
Hand sanding
Resin treatment
Tacking
Crinkling
1st wash
Curing
Grinding
Washing as per requirement
PP spray 2nd wash/neutral pp
Hydro extractor Grinding
Softener
Final wash
Drying
Drying
Table No.10.6 Methods of washing
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS Material process flow in washing
Garments are checked as per quality standards Bulk approved wash standard received from buyer First bulk wash is done(250 pcs)
Rectify the faults and update the recipe Bulk wash ranges are send to the buyer Comments and approval comes from the buyer Bulk washing is done
Tumble dry
Garment is inspected as AQL 2.5 Garment sent to finishing for packing
Figure10.17 Material process flow in wet washing
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Machine Details of wet process S.NO. NAME OF THE MACHINE
NO.OF MACHINE
MANUFACTURER
1
45
TONNELLO,
WASHING
DENIS,TOLKAR 2
DRYER
24
RAMSON,STALWART ,TRIVENETA
3
HYDROEXTRACTOR
6
BIGMAC
Table No.10.7 Machine Details of wet process
Machine details of dry process S.NO
NAME OF THE MACHINE
NO.OF.MACHINE
MANUFACTURER
1
CURING OVEN
2
RAMSON
2
CRINKLING MACHINE
14
RAMSON
3
BENCH GRINDING
2
RAMSON
4
TACKING MACHINE
6
RAMSON
5
IR CURING MACHINE
12
IR CURE, GEM
6
3D BOHIMA
1
IR CURE
7
BRUSHING ROBOT
1
IR CURE
8
JACKET ROBOT
10
IR CURE
9
LASER MAKING
6
IR CURE
10
SPRAY BOOTH
4
VIJAY & RAMSON
Table No.10.8 Machine Details of Dry process
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Chapter 11.)FINISHING DEPARTMENT OBJECTIVE: To finish the garments and pack them such that they are ready to be sent to the buyer. Finishing section shown in figure11.1 is responsible for trimming, checking, mending, ironing, and packing the garments. Finished garments are received from Washing Unit. There are 5 lines of finishing named as Module A, B, C, and D & E.
Figure 11.1.Finishing Department
MANPOWER Checkers/ironers/packers = 100 Supervisors=3 Total floor area of finishing department 9355 square feet Finishing is the last stage of garment production where garment gets its final look. It undergoes for quality check for several number of time which sets the garment free from defects. Buyer specifications and instructions are strictly maintained. Finishing section consists of the various operations: 131 | P a g e
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Loop cutting Trimming Audit Rivet/snap attachment Measurement Folding Ironing Labeling Trim attaching Tag attaching Packing Final inspection
Finishing & Packaging â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Denim The Finishing & Packaging Section for Denim Garments is on the same floor as the Denim Sewing Section. After washing and other surface finishing, the dried garments are brought to the Finishing Floor. Various activities also shown in figure11.2 undertaken before packaging are: i.
Cut Plastic on Labels: The plastic pouches wrapped over labels attached to the garment so as they do not catch any color bleed while washing of the garment are cut and removed.
ii.
Trim Threads: Extra threads that are left on the garment while sewing are trimmed off.
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2015
Trim Belt Loops: Long lengths of belt loops are often left on the garment while the automatic machine attaches them on the waistband. These extra lengths are manually trimmed off using trimmers to a suitable length.
iv.
Measurement Checking: All measurements are checked once more so as to ensure there is no deviation from the required specification due to postwash shrinkage.
v.
Alteration: If any measurement is found inappropriate and it is correctable, it is sent for alteration on the same floor. Measurement is again checked and then sent for the further processes.
vi.
Topper: Garment is hanged on the machine and is stretched to check the strength of the waistband and also check the size.
vii.
Attachment of metal trims (except zipper): Rivets and shank buttons are attached to the garment on different machines.
viii.
Pressing: Ironing is done often by steam press. Those garments whose specification is not to use a press, are set on the topper which removes the wrinkles out of the garment.
ix.
Final Checking: A final check is further done so as to assure the quality specifications, trims attachment, quality of stitching, measurement specifications and other features that may have been left out during previous inspections.
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Kimble & Sticker Attachment: Kimble and hangtags are attached as per the size of the garment. Garments are folded and are segregated size and color wise.
xi.
Needle Detection: All the garments are passed through metal detector machine as it is mandatory quality specification.
xii.
Packaging: Individual garments are brought in packaging section. They are then individually packed and then put in cartons as per buyerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specification. Packing is done manually by hand held Tape Dispenser.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS FINISHING PROCESS FLOWCHART
Figure 11.2. Process Flow of Finishing Dept.
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS MACHINERY DETAILS OF FINISHING SECTION: S.NO
NAME OF THE MACHINE
NO.OF.MACHINE
1
SNLS
10
2
SNLS â&#x20AC;&#x201C;UBT
16
3
BARTACK
11
4
CHAIN STITCH
1
5
SNAP BUTTON
13
6
PRESSING TABLE
22
Table No.11.1 Machine details
CAPACITY DETAILS OF FINISHINGSECTION: S.NO
ITEM
DETAILS
1
NO.OF.FINISHING LINE
8
2
NO.OF.WORK
12
STATION/LINE 3
NO.OF.EMPLOYEE
375
4
AVERAGE
6350
PRODUCTION/DAY 5
TYPE OF PACKING
Polybag and cardboard cartons Table No.11.2 Capacity details
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Man Power required for finishing section:
Time taken for
Man Garment
(40
Target
Power
Per
Target by
Process
Avg
garment)
Per Hour
Day
required
individual
Loop Cutting
0.2
2
122
974
3
2922
Trimming
1.4
11
21
169
15
2533
Audit
1.4
11
21
170
15
2545
Rivet/Button
0.5
4
62
496
5
2479
Ironing
0.3
2
98
785
3
2354
Final checking
0.5
4
61
487
5
2435
Measurement
0.2
1
160
1283
2
2567
Trim attaching
0.7
6
41
331
8
2645
Folding
0.2
2
131
1049
2
2098
UPC / Labeling
0.7
6
43
341
7
2386
Tag attaching
0.3
3
87
699
4
2797
Packing
Na
Na
Na
Na
5
Na
74
2524
TableNo.11.3.Manpower
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INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015 FinishingAPPAREL time study report : BUYER: H&M , StyleRicky Youth Finishing section (Jeans) Time study report Sl. No
Operation Name
Avg
SMV
Avg/Hr
Avg/Day
1
Loop Cutting
0.224
0.2464
243.506
1948.05
2
Trimming
1.292
1.4212
42.2178
337.743
3
Audit
1.286
1.4146
42.4148
339.319
4
Rivet/Button
0.44
0.484
123.967
991.736
5
Ironing/Topper
0.278
0.3058
196.207
1569.65
6
Final checking
0.448
0.4928
121.753
974.026
7
Measurement
0.17
0.187
320.856
2566.84
8
Trim attaching
0.66
0.726
82.6446
661.157
9
Folding
0.208
0.2288
262.238
2097.9
10
UPC / Labeling
0.64
0.704
85.2273
681.818
11
Tag attaching
0.312
0.3432
174.825
1398.6
12
Packing
1.858
2.0438
29.3571
234.857
Total SMV
8.5976
Table No.11.4 Time Study of Ricky Youth
DETAILS OF THE STYLES STUDIED SL.NO
BUYER
STYLE
SMV
1.
PIMKIE
COL ACID
9.04
2.
LEVI’S
LOG WOOD-511
8.75
3.
LEVI’S
AMEZE-511
11.36
4.
LEVI’S
WARM JET WAYS
8.24
5.
H&M
Skinny Clean
10.98
6.
H&M
Slim Ricky cane
8.29
7.
PIMKIE
Black Rinse
9.30
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H&M
RICKY YOUTH
8.59
9.
H&M
JOGGER WILLIAM
10.79
10.
LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S
CORK BREAK
10.96
2015
Table No.11.5 SMV details of various buyers
DEFECT ANALYSIS SL.NO
DEFECT
PART
OF CAUSE
GARMENT 1.
Unraveling of bobbin thread Back
OF
DEFECT pocket, Washing
stitch
Waistband
2.
Unraveling of fabric thread
Belt loop
3.
Open stitch or loose stitch
Bottom hem, Waist Washing, Sewing
Washing
band, Crotch area 4.
Wrong bar tack
(Fabric Pocket bag
Sewing
tucked) 5.
Broken Chain Stitch
Pocket bag
Washing
6.
Opening of chain stitch
Back Yoke
Washing
7.
Improper Over lock
Side Seam
Sewing
8.
Unraveling
of Over lock Side Seam
Washing
stitch 9.
Wrong SPI
Pocket bag
10.
Broken Stitch
Back
Sewing Pocket, Washing
Waistband 11.
Missing bar tack
Fly facing, Pocket Sewing bag
12.
Broken Zippers
13.
Holes, Torn label, Stains
Fly
Washing Washing, Sewing
Table No.11.6 Machine details
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PROCESS LAYOUT- FINISHING DEPARTMENT (shown in figure11.3)
FINISHING LINE FEEDING LOOP CUTTING
POCKET CLEANING TRIMMING INITIAL CHECKING ALTERATION KBS THREAD SUCKING IRONING/TOPPER
D FINAL CHECKING
I S
PRICE TAGGING
ENTRY/EXIT
P
NEEDLE DETECTION
A
PACKING
C
PACKAGING layout CARTONS AREA Dept. Figure 11.3.Process for Finishing Figure 11.3. Finishing Process Layout
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FINISHING SUGGESTIONS THREAD TRIMMING The main cause for recurring defect is tangled untrimmed thread. According to time study, the time required to trim these thread is around 2 minutes. Even though initial trimming is done, processes followed after involves trimming again. If the trimming section function properly after sewing i.e. before it goes for washing, the trimming in the finishing department can be avoided. So, after washing these garments can be directly loaded to initial checking after pocket cleaning. In this way, the SMV can be reduced which will enhance productivity. GARMENT DEFECTS If we follow the current layout, the defected pieces can be segregated in the trimming section rather than following further processes. For eg: If a garment is beyond alteration it can be segregated in the trimming station itself. Also the common recurring defects can be segregated in the trimming station itself. For e.g.: The troughs in which the defected pieces are put on can be divided into two or three like Over lock, SNLS, Bar tack defects rather than mixing it all together and segregating it with the help of additional helper.
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Chapter 12.) PROJECT
SUBMITTED BY: RAJIV RANJAN VIBHANSHU SRIVASTAVA DFT- VII NIFT, HYDERABAD
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PROJECT ‘MEASUREMENT ISSUES’ & ‘QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS’ (SURVEY)
By: RAJIV RANJAN
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OBJECTIVE OF THE PROJECT The main objective of the project was to find different issues in the measurement of a style of denim. As we all know the importance of measurement in the garment industry. Any defect or issue in the denim can increase the possibility of the rejection. So, this study is done to detect these issues and enhance the quality of the garment, There are several parameters by which we can understand the measurement problems in the garment. We found the problems and the cause of the problems occurred in this style during the whole manufacturing process from pattern making to shipment. In this project, we followed a style “Jogger Liam 89” of H&M and find the measurement issues in that style on every step. From the pattern making to the finishing process, there are several types of measurement issues in this style. So, we found those measurement issues and the cause.
INTRODUCTION OF THE STYLE
Buyer- H&M Style- Jogger Liam 89 Season- 2, Color - Blue Fabric Composition- 76% cotton + 23% polyester + 1% elastane Shrinkage- 2cms x 2.5cms Group – Kids Issue Date –2 April 2015 Wash – Mid wash
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METHODOLOGY
STUDY OF THE WHOLE PROCEDURE FOR NORMAL DENIM
COLLECTION OF INFORMATIO N THIS STYLE
FIND THE MEASUREME NT ISSUES IN EACH DEPT.
CAUSES OF MEASUREME NT ISSUES
• Understand the different processes for a normal denim • quality checks which are to be followed to avoid issues
• Study the processes used in this style so that we can find the reasons for measurement issues. • Problems that occurred during the manufacturing
• Type of measurement issues • Reasons and effects
• Conclusion, i.e. “why these issues occurred?” • Recomendation
1. PROCEDURES FOR NORMAL DENIM CONSTRUCTION
Fabric and Trims quality inspection
Washing
Finishing
Pattern Making and Sampling
Sewing
Packaging
Pilot Run
Cutting
So, we covered all these departments and the brief idea is given in the document previously. 145 | P a g e
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2. COLLECTING INFORMATION OF THIS STYLE FROM EACH DEPT. FABRIC/TRIMS STORAGE AND INSPECTION Objective: Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage, width and P.O, Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and sampling dept. Fabric inspection for Jogger Liam 89 Complete visual inspection was done. There is no systematic recording. Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the dimension of the defects. Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only. Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes. Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection. The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.
Major defects that are encountered are: 1. Weaving 2. Dyeing (patta, center, selvage, streaks) 3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.
RESULTS: 2 rolls i.e. 99371 & 99213 were rejected due to shade variation in length. There is a major problem during sewing due to the crisscross storage manner of the fabric rolls.
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Inspection Report of Jogger Liam 89
Trims Inspection In this style, all the quality inspection for the trims were done. The trims used in this style are as follows: Size label Wash care label Name label Tubular tape Threads and Buttons 147 | P a g e
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SAMPLING Objective: To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer. To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process. To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost quotations.
In this style, following samples were created:
Proto sample
Pilot Run 2
Pilot Run 3
Quotation Sample
Pilot Run 1
Bulk
Photo shoot sample
Size set
So, measurement issues can arise at any of this point.
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PILOT RUN
OBJECTIVE: Purpose of pilot run is to check production techniques and quality requirement.
CUTTING Objective: spreading the fabric lays, cut the garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the panels. It consists of following processes: Marker making Fabric Relaxation Spreading Cutting Cut parts checking and recutting Numbering Fusing Embroidery Sorting and bundle
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SEWING Objective: To sew the garments according to the styles given by the buyer.
Operation Bulletin of Jogger Liam 89
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WASHING Objectives of Washing: To develop softness in garments To give a vintage look to the garment To introduce fading/used effect To create new styles and thus a change in fashion To satisfy the customer needs and wants To make the garments shrink to the maximum
Wash Recipe
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FINISHING Objective: to add on value to the garments and give the final touch to the garment. It is consist of following processes: Loop trimming Pocket cleaning Extra thread removing Rough checking If any minor defect is there, Alteration can be done. If not, the garments are rejected by the QA. Thread setting Pressing Final inspection Match book After final inspection, the trims like tags, stickers etc are attached Fold the garments properly then and send to the packing department.
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3. MEASUREMENT ISSUES FABRIC STORAGE Due to this section, a big problem was occurred in â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Jogger Liam 89â&#x20AC;? in the cutting section known as waviness. This stretchbility of this fabric was much more. Some of the rolls were not relaxed before cutting.
FABRIC STORAGE This manner of storage create dimensional instability in the stretchable fabric rolls, because due to this type of storage manner, the rolls which are in the bottom of the rolls get more pressure which causes the dimensional instability in the rolls because each part of the roll does not get same pressure.
Solution: The fabric which is more stretchable should be stored in pyramid form, whether the buyer ask for it or not.
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PATTERN MAKING AND SAMPLIN
Proto sample
Pilot Run 2
Pilot Run 3
Quotation Sample
Pilot Run 1
Bulk
Photo shoot sample
Size set
Measurement Issues In pattern making: Due to washing, there were many changes in the measurement because there is shrinkage in the fabric. So, every time pattern master have to make the changes in the pattern. In quotation sample, Shrinkage: L X W = 2 X 2.5% The pattern master added some allowances to get the fit. The allowances are: Thigh = +0.9, Bottom = - 0.4, Front rise = + 0.5 Back rise = +0.5, Inseam = +1, Out seam = +1. In Size-set samples, Buyer checked the photo shoot sample and asked for size set sample with the same block. Scoop pocket making adjustment was needed. After sending the size set sample, the company got the approval of bulk production. 154 | P a g e
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1st Pilot Run: Shrinkage: L X W = 3.5 X 7% The allowances are: Waist = +2, Thigh = +1.2, Knee = +.8, Inseam = +.8, Front rise = +.5, Back rise = 0.8 2nd Pilot Run: Shrinkage: L X W = 4.5 X 3.5% The allowances are: Waist = +0.5, Front rise = +1
BULK Shrinkage: L X W = 1.5 X 6 % The allowances are: Seat = -0.6, Thigh = +0.8, Knee = +0.6, Bottom = +0.4, Inseam = +0.5, Front rise = -0.5, Back rise = - 0.6.
Reasons for the measurement issues: SHRINKAGE Shrinkage is the most important parameter because the measurement is totally dependent on this parameter. So, its important to calculate the shrinkage of the fabric and give the allowances during the pattern making and sampling. This project i.e. ‘measurement issues’ depends on shrinkage.
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To check this, we gave 4 tubes for washing in the washing dept with same reciepe and time duration. Sample 1 ï&#x201A;¢ Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1 Before wash: L = 25 cm & W = 25 cm
After Wash:
L = 23.7 cms. (-1.3cms.) W = 22.7 cms. (-2.3cms.)
So, we added these deviations in the actual measurement. Sample 2
Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1
Before wash: L = 26.3 cm & W = 27.3 cm
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS So, we gave the samples again for washing. Sample 3 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1 Before wash: L = 26.3 cm & W = 27.3 cm
After Wash: L = 24.5 cms. (- 1.8 cm.)
W = 26 cms. ( -1.3 cms.)
Sample 4 Fabric: SB-15-00437 1/1 Before wash: L = 26.3 cm & W = 27.3 cm
After Wash: L = 25.3 cms. (-1 cm.) , W = 25.1 cms. (-2.2 cms.)
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In the 4th time, the sample is near 25cms x 25 cms. So, there are some faults in washing which creates problem for the pattern making section, which lead to the creation of different samples. Example of alteration in pattern:
FRONT PANEL
BACK PANEL
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PILOT RUN During pattern making, the reasons for measurement issues are:
Top fly notch was missing in pattern.
The pattern of back panel and back yoke did not match.
Wrong waistband measurement.
No elastic cut measurement was given in spec.
During sewing the measurement issues are: •
Elastic gathering was not even.
•
Shape off at bottom hem.
•
Raw edge at waistband over lock.
•
Slanted loop attachment.
During washing:
Little shrinkage problem occurred again in wet processing
In dry process, due to more scrapping and the size of balloon give rise to the measurement issues.
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CUTTING Reasons for measurement issue: (i) Waviness
(ii) Improper Spreading
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS (iii) Mis- cut
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS (iv) Marker Placement
(v) Frayed edges
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(vi) Fabric Relaxation
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS SEWING Measurement issues in sewing mainly because of these reasons given below: Waistband measurement. Side seam margin not given Coin pocket, scoop pocket, back pocket and facing are not checked. 1. Waistband Mis-alignment
2. Improper thread tension
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WASHING Reasons for Measurement Issues:
I.
•
Scrapping
•
Shrinkage
•
PP Spray Scrapping
Effects of uneven balloons:
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II.
2015
Shrinkage
Shrinkage in Jogger Liam 89 (1% elastane) due to wet washing takes place due to : (i) Water (ii) Chemicals (iii) Exceeding time limit III.
PP Spray
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APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS FINISHING
Measurement issues are: o Rib size misplace o Uneven folding in bottom. Alteration due to: •
Bar tack missing
•
Miss stitch
•
Alignment
4. CONCLUSION Through this project we come to know about the measurement issues and their reasons. So, we are concluding the whole project here. It contains the reason.
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RECOMMENDATION: The stretchable fabric rolls should be stored in pyramid form. The relaxation should be done properly before spreading. Balloon pressure should be checked properly before scrapping is done in dry washing. During sewing, QA department should check the measurement properly and the workers should work with extra care and check the operation whether it is done properly or not and then pass it on.
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These issues should be taken seriously and each department should try their best to decrease these issues. ADVANTAGES: Less rejection Productivity increases Less rework Profitable Shipment on time Optimal utilization of all the resources Reputation of the company becomes better Good working condition
EFFECT OF MEASUREMENT ISSUES ON INDUSTRY Possibility of rejection increases Extra work load on every department to remove those issue Wastage of resources Time wastage due to doing the processes again and again Garment can be damaged by rework again and again Profit decreases Exceeding the time limit for shipment Reputation of the industry
So, these are the measurement problems and issues in each department. I have tried my best to cover all the measurements issues and their reasons. Hope this project will help this industry.
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QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS (SURVEY) IN ARVIND LTD., MYSORE ROAD
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QUALITY ASSURANCE PARAMETERS AUDITORS Sl. No
Process
Requirement
Details
Section: TRIM STORES
1
2
3
Entry restricted for others
YES
Incoming goods
YES
Trims inspection area
YES
Inspected ok goods
YES
Rejected goods
YES
Sticker for pass
YES
Item wise Bin cards or item wise stock in system
YES
Adequate light
YES
Authorized person
YES
Quantity inspected record
YES
Communication of pass/fail record
YES
Approval of merchant
YES
Storage PO wise
NO
Needles under safety lock
NO
Labels must be stored under safety lock Handling
NO
Identification
Trim Inspection
Others
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YES
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4
2015
Housekeeping
YES
Approved Trim card
YES
Sampling plan
YES
Store layout
YES
Process flow chart
YES
Fabric defect standard
YES
4 point system chart
YES
Process flow chart
YES
Face side. If necessary display Nap direction & Grain line Approved shades
NO YES
Layout
YES
Incoming goods
YES
Display
Section: FABRIC STORES
1
2
3
4
Display
Fabric inspection area
YES,SMALL
Inspection OK goods
YES
Rejected goods
YES
Sticker identification
YES
Physical check against Receipt invoice
YES
Communication of excess/shortage
YES
Centre to selvedge color variation report
YES
Identification
Fabric receipt
Fabric inspection
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5
6
7
Fabric relaxation
Fabric storage
Fabric issue
2015
Shrinkage, wash & Iron
YES
Shade segregation
NO
Shade blankets for wash program
YES
Approval on shades
YES
Face side approval
YES
Combo and trim fabric approval
YES
Relaxation history card
YES
Relaxation record style/roll/color wise
YES
Stretch fabrics recommended to be stored in pyramid form Fabric must be stored shade/shrinkage/ width wise Cover fabric with poly bag to avoid dust Issue record to be maintained style/PO/ color/shade wise Fabric issue must be shade/shrinkage/ width wise Pass roles must be identified with green stickers
NO NO YES YES YES YES
Section: CUTTING
1
Approved Ref samples
Plaid matching requirement
YES
Grain line/center/feature line requirement Nap/design direction
YES
Fusing requirement
YES
Combo/trim/Emb/print requirement
YES
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YES
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Fabric
3
Preventive maintenance
4
Display
5
6
7
8
9
10
Cutting CAD markers Sober numbering
2015
Fabric receipt and consumption record
YES
Cutting machine maintenance record
YES
Spreading m/c maintenance record
YES
Display cutting SOP
YES
Approvals (Emb, printing, Shades etc.) Fabric face side
YES
Process flow chart
YES
Layout
YES
Shade wise ratio cutting to be worked out
YES
Cad markers must be used
YES
All panels must be numbered using sober stickers Color code sober in case of multiple shrinkage patterns Cut parts must be stored in racks
YES
Mobile cut part storage to be made available
YES
Pilot run records
YES
Marker/spread audit
YES
Cutting audit
YES
Bundle inspection
YES
Adequate light
YES
Display defect standards
YES
Part replacement to take place from the same rolls
YES
YES
NO YES
Storage
Quality control
Cut panel inspection
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11
2015
End bits must be stored neatly with identification Embroidery 100% check to be carried
YES
Printing 100% check to be conducted
YES
Fusing standard (approval report)
YES
Fusing test at least one time a day
YES
Bond strength report
YES
Machine preventive maintenance calendar Fusing audit report
YES
Fusing shrinkage & swatch record
YES
Handling/ house keeping
YES
Pre-production meeting conducted prior to pilot run All people listed must attend PPM
YES
PPM comments must be available
YES
Pilot run
YES
Batch setting must be as per technical specification Traffic light system at the line
YES
Needle procedure
YES
Label procedure
YES
Bundle integrity
YES
Self trimming
YES
Self evaluation/inspection
NO
YES
Fusing YES
Section: SEWING
1
Quality system
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YES
NO
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2
Display at end line
2015
Handling
YES
Operation standard on all m/c sighed by QA, Sup & Op Machine maintenance card
YES
Inspection done by operator himself
NO
House keeping
YES
Inspection area must have adequate light End line inspection
YES
Regular visit by QA, Sup (hourly) to end line Corrective action report at the end line record every hour Measurement audit
YES
SPI mocks on all machines
YES
Gangue must not be blocked
YES
Machine alignment
YES
Buyer construction detailed to be displayed Reference sample
YES
Production comments
YES
Pilot run comments
YES
Technical specifications
YES
Fabric defect standard
YES
Sewing defect standard
YES
Checking sequence
YES
Critical/major/minor defect list
YES
Approved fabric/trim card
YES
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YES
YES
YES YES
YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
Style analysis/line plan
YES
Skill matrix
YES
Inline DHU graph
YES
End line DHU graph
YES
Measurement spec sheet
YES
Check/pass/repair/return/reject identification
YES
Size set
YES
Pilot run
YES
Offer pilot & TOP
YES
Bulk cutting and production
YES
Internal audit and carton audit
YES
Final inspection
YES
Section: PO EXECUTION
1
Execution
Section: FILES AND RECORDS
1
Fabric test report
YES
Garment test report
YES
Fusible interlining report
YES
Trim test report
YES
Approved fabric swatch card
YES
Approved trim card
YES
Style files
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2
Records
2015
PP sample approved card
YES
PP meeting comments
YES
Size set report
YES
Pilot run report
YES
Technical specifications
YES
Buyer construction sheets
YES
PO copies
YES
Measurement spec sheets
YES
Mini marker
YES
Thread consumption report
YES
Packing/folding instruction
YES
Production record (date/style/color/ size wise) Inline inspection report
YES
End line inspection report
YES
Measurement audit report
YES
Daily quality status report
YES
Corrective/preventive action report
YES
WEEKLY/MONTHLY quality status graph Inline & end line DHU batch wise
YES
Defect analysis
YES
Monthly style wise audit co-relation (Nom QA/buyer)
YES
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YES
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2015
Section: LAUNDRY A. Dry process
1
2
3
4
5
Laser (print/burn)
Resin treatment
3D
Whiskering
Hand scrapping
Approved standard to be displayed
YES
Quality report on size of burn or print/ grading / intensity and placement
YES
Record on style wise chemicals mixed for resin Resin solution to be made ready for a definite qty. Record on % of concentration of chemicals used Record on mixing of chemicals on weight basis Record on pressure inside balloons for each style Record on garment rotation time and no of revolutions Record on curing time
YES
3D standard to be displayed
YES
Record on maintaining of temp during 3D processes Quality check report on placement and rigidity Display standard on every work station Separate production and rework records Operators identification on each garment Adequate light at end table
YES
Display standard on every work station
YES
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YES YES YES NO YES YES
YES YES YES YES YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
6
Tacking/tying
2015
Separate production and rework records Operators identification on each garment Adequate light at end table
YES
Standards to be displayed
YES
Records on type of tag pin used
YES
pH value of every load of wash to be recorded Wash standard to be available
YES
Wash type and record of recipe used
YES
Wash load qty and duration of wash records Quality report with accept/reject remarks Spray requirement standard/record
YES
Records on area of spray
NO
Style wise spray mixing remarks
YES
Standard to be made available in the area Record on nos & sizes/ placement of destruction Checkers report
YES
Details of pre-treatment to be recorded
YES
Recipe used for treatment
YES
Duration of treatment
YES
Standard to be made available in the area
YES
YES YES
B. Wet process 1
2
3
4
5
6
pH value
First bulk/pilot wash
PP spray
Damages/ destruction
Pre-treatment
Bleach wash
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YES
YES YES
YES YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
7
8
9
10
11
12
Enzyme wash
Acid wash
Stone wash
Drying
Washing & drying m/c health Quality audits
2015
Record on bleach agent/recipe used for wash Record on temp/time at each bath station Record about after wash treatment
YES
Standard to be made available in the area Record on recipe used
YES
Record on temp/time at each bath
YES
Post treatment detail and record to be maintained Wash standard availability
YES
Recipe followed. Should maintain records Temp/time record of bath
YES
Post treatment details
YES
Standard to be made available in the area Quantity of garments and stones taken for a bath Size and type of stone used
YES
Stone size/solvent ratio, time and temp records Drying load quantity â&#x20AC;&#x201C; record to be maintained Temperature and time records
YES
Each m/c to have individual health cards Health check calendar displayed for all m/cs After wash AQL audit report
YES
Style wise dispatch against receipt
YES
Section: FINISHING 183 | P a g e
YES YES
YES
YES
YES
YES YES
YES YES
YES YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
1
Receipt of garments
Maintain receipt records daily style/ color/size wise
YES
2
Washing
Approved wash std (hand heel/shade)
YES
After wash AQL audit report
YES
Communication on audit result to concern person Approved reference sample
YES
Approved trim card
YES
Fabric defect std
YES
Sewing defect standard
YES
% of defect trend (graph) chart
YES
Process flow chart
YES
Lay out
YES
Approved garment standard signed by QAM Traffic line system
YES
Operation std signed by QA, Sup & operator Handling
YES
House keeping
YES
Damaged snaps/button record
YES
Approved standard GMT signed by QAM Traffic line system
YES
Operation std on every table signed by QA, Sup & operator Handling
YES
House keeping
YES
Inspection record to be maintained
YES
3
4
5
6
Display
Button/button holes
Pressing section
Middle
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YES
NO
YES
NO
YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS inspection
7
8
9
10
Final/ presentation checking
Machine maintenance
Measurement audit
Garment packing
2015
Co-relation middle & final inspection report Identification check/pass/repair/return and reject Handling & House keeping
YES
Maintained inspection record
YES
Identification check/pass/repair/return and reject Handling & House keeping
YES
Co-relation middle & final reports
YES
All sewing m/cs
YES
Metal detection maintenance and calibration Maintenance of ironing table
YES
Button and button hole m/c
YES
Critical measurements â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 100% checking Measurement records
YES
Separate area for measurement must be identified A min of 32 pcs random audit report style/color wise Tape calibration
YES
Approved shade garments
YES
Packing std signed by merchant
YES
Garment to be stored style/color/size wise before tag Pkg audit of pkg cartons for ratio packing
YES
Approved trim/accessories card
YES
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YES YES
YES
YES
YES
YES YES
YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
11
12
13
Internal audit
Rejection analysis
QA centre
2015
Placement of tag
YES
Handling & House keeping
YES
Finished pkd gmts to be offered for final audit in small lots Audit to happen as per sample plan for visual & measurement Ratio/solid and carton audit report
YES
Corrective/preventive action in case of audit failure Audited pass goods to be stored separately Daily rejection analysis report
YES
Style wise rejection analysis report
YES
Communication to head of the department Adequate light
YES
Fabric/sewing defect standard
YES
Measurement charts
YES
Sampling plans
YES
Reference sample
YES
Internal audit/buyer audit o-relation
YES
Graphs/bar chart/pie chart/histographs
YES
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YES YES
YES
APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS
2015
PROJECT REPORT TOPICS: 1. PROCESS DEVELOPMENT/IMPROVEMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE) 2. QUALITY and AUDIT MODULE SETUP
Submitted By: VIBHANSHU SRIVASTAVA
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CONTENT
1.
PROCESS DEVELOPMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE)
1.a)
CASE 1/ PROCESS 1 – MOULD WHISKERING
1.b)
CASE 1/ PROCESS 1 – PUNCTURE PATCHES
2.
QUALITY and AUDIT MODULE
3.
CONCLUSION
4.
LEARNING OUTCOME
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Project#1 PROCESS DEVELOPMENT (P.D.C.A CYCLE)
Process development implies improvising and making an existing process grow in its attributes and give a higher efficiency and productivity in order to achieve greater profit. In this project two processes are taking into account and through various research and study these processes are improved in terms of feasibility, manpower, cost effectiveness, time cutting and visualization. Plan-Do-Check-Act (P.D.C.A) cycle implies as, first planning for the right improvements of the process, implementing it, checking the results and then enquiring the failures and feasibility minors and then accordingly making the improvements to come out of a better and improved process method. In denim washing the process development contributes in increasing the aesthetics of the process, saves the time, reduces the manpower and implies cost effectiveness. These developments are also feasible and easily acquired developments.
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Case1/Process1- Mould Whiskering Description-Hand Whiskering is done with the help of the moulds to give a specific and prĂŠcised texture to the denim jeans and is called as mould whiskering. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a process of achieving a desired texture or design of whiskers and chevrons with a template; here the template is made of the foam board. Process breakdown: The process is shown in figure 1.0:
1.Taping the moulds to the pole
2.Arranging the jeans on moulds
3.Hand whiskering with the silicon carbide paper
Figure 1.0 Operational Breakdown of Mould Whiskering
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Findings/problem While the process of mould whiskering for a particular whisker/chevron mould or the stencil needs to be untapped and have to be taped again for the new style quite often.
There is an inconvenient glitch in arranging the moulds by taping and unwrapping it which takes an unwanted amount of time. Solution/recommendation Suspenders setup should be applied as shown in figure 1.1. There should be a pair of elastic band, one near the waist area and one near the knee area. It should be tight and the mould should be inserted between these elastic bands. Then the jeans should be dressed and whiskered.
SUSPENDER SETUP
Figure 1.1 Setup of suspender
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Advantage This will avoid the unnecessary and irritating job of taping and unwrapping of the tape to attach the moulds. Feasibility indicators: Before implementing the change in this process to make it feasible, the key things to be kept in mind were: The arrangement should be tight and rigid. If cello tapes weren’t used the other fastener should be cost efficient and durable. The life of the other fastener should be more than the cello tape. The fastener should be broad enough to cover the surface of both the mould and the pole.
IMPLEMENTATION of Elastic band (SUCCESS & FAILURE) 1ST ATTEMPT
Initially in search of the elastic material I picked up the elastic band used to make the waistband of the underwear. It was joined at the ends with the adhesive to make a elastic circle and was applied on the attachment holding the mould and pole together.
Failure- This attachment was able to hold the mould and the pole but the mould was very loose and while whiskering it hindered the formation of whiskers and chevrons.
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2nd ATTEMPT After the 1st attempt I picked up the elastic band for making waist band of joggerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans because it had more width and more durability. Then instead of joining the band, I got stitched Velcro on both the ends. The trick was in the application of the band on to the mould and pole. Instead of making an elastic circle of the band, it was stretched and wrapped up tightly with more no. of rotations around the mould and the pole; also the elastic got stuck with its other ends with the help of the Velcro stitched at the ends making the setup very rigid and non-movable as shown in figure 1.2.
Figure 1.2 Elastic band Implementation
Success- This attachment was very tight and gave the strength like that of the tape.
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Advantage- The use of the elastic bands removed the use of the cello tapes which was not reusable and was also very irritating to remove it with its adhesive end creating trouble. The elastic band lasts up to 20 days minimum which is better than cello tapes which can be used only once.
Cost analysis for elastic Band Attachment: Before elastic band implementation No. of cell tapes used /day = 4 (avg.) Cost of 1 cello tape = 50 Rs. Total expenditure on cello tapes /day =4ˣ 50= 200 Rs Hence total expenditure on cello tapes / month = 30ˣ 200=6000 Rs. After elastic band implementation Elastic band used for 1 setup = 2 Meter of elastic band used for 1 setup = (1meter/band + 1meter/band) =2 meter. Cost of elastic band / setup = 2ˣ 5= 10 Rs. Velcro used for 1 setup = (3 inch/band + 3inch/band) =6 inch Cost of the Velcro/setup (Velcro / 6 inch) = 2 Rs. Total moulds setup= 40 Cost of elastic bands for 40 setup = 40ˣ 10=400 Rs. Cost of Velcro band for 40 setup = 40ˣ 2=80 Rs. Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) = 400+80= 480 Rs. 194 | P a g e
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The elastic band lasts up to 20 days, so Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 20 days = 480 Rs. Total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 1 day = 480/20=24 Rs. Hence, total expenditure on (elastic band + Velcro) / 30 days (1 month) = 30 ˣ 24= 720 Rs.
Hence total cost savings/ month = 6000-720= 5280 Rs. Thus we see a great saving while the process development evident through figure 1.4 to 1.5 of the mould whiskering. Feasibility check The arrangement as shown in figure 1.3 came out to be rigid and tight. The elastic bands and Velcro used as new fasteners are cost efficient (less expenditure) and durable. Life of the elastic bands is more as it lasts up to minimum 20 days. The elastic band has more width than the waist band of the underwear used in the first attempt.
Figure 1.3 Elastic bands with Velcro ends used for the setup
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INITIALY
Fig 1.4Cello tape attachment
PROCESS DEVELOPMENT
FINALY
Figure 1.5 Elastic Band attachments
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RESULT There is a decrease in the wastage of cello tapes. As the cost analysis suggests there is a fair amount of saving per month. The elastic bands and Velcro are easily available in the trims store of the industry in bulk as those are used for making elastic waist bands of the jeans and undergarments, thus no need of ordering it separately. Mould surface also get ruptures while un tying the cello tape , which is avoided in the case of elastic bands. Scrap pieces of the cello tape wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get stuck on the denim jeans or onto other places like shoes etc.
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CASE /PROCESS 2 – PUNCTURE PATCHES This process is a small but very important process. These puncture patches are stickered on the back side of the denim on the place where the torn area is present so that skin is not visible and also add an effect to the denim jeans. Breakdown of puncture patches application on the denim jeans along with the time study is given in figure 1.6TIMEOPERATION
20.1
• spraying / applying glue
sec 29.4 sec 51.7
• spreading glue with fingers • applying of the patches on the jeans
sec 100
• arrangement of the puncture patches on the pressing machine
sec 60
• machine process
sec 4.8
• reciprocating the jeans
sec 9
• inspection
sec 60
• ironing
sec
Figure 1.6 Operational and Time breakdown of Puncture Patches process
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Total time of operation- 335 sec (5.5 min) Total pieces produced per hour =150
Problems/Findings Applying glue takes a lot of time manually. 300 bottles of glue used daily. Problem of the wrinkling of the puncture patches at the time of applying the patch to the jeans. Pressing m/c should be improved. Unnecessary shifting/transporting of garment for ironing.
Solutions: 1. There should be a bowl, cup or any container where the glue can be poured.
2. There can be a Band-Aid applying arrangement of the puncture patches on the jeans.Instead of applying the glue with the finger, brush or a flattened head stick should be used. Advantage- it will eliminate the wastage of the glue and will eliminate the time of squeezing the bottle and putting extra effort.
3. 300 glue bottles are used in one hour of the 60 ml bottle costing 43 Rs/bottle Therefore, total cost on glue bottles is (43Ă&#x2014;300)=12900 per day Hence itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better to use a big glue box of at Rs 200. Advantage- this will cut the unnecessary cost spent on the buying of glues.
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4. While the process of applying the puncture patches with the glue there are
wrinkles often formed on the surface of the puncture patches which needs to go through ironing which is involvement of an extra operation.
Thus there is a need of making the fabric wrinkle free so that even with poor handling of the puncture patches there are no wrinkles and ironing is not required. Advantage- elimination of an extra operation and saving inspection and ironing time for the process. 5. The pressing machine has a pressure of 2 kg and temp-150ยบC and contains two beds in between which the jeans are kept and final pressing of the jeans is processed for the prominent sticking of the puncture patches. These beds are made of polymer material and hence because of excess pressure and heat generated in the machine the beds are wrinkled and have deformations which forms the unnecessary wrinkles and fabric gathering on the jeans. Hence there is a need of changing the beds from time to time to make the wrinkle free jeans. Advantage-elimination of an extra operation and proper pressing of the machine saving inspection and ironing time for the process.
6. After the inspection some pieces need to be ironed for removing the wrinkles and enhancing it ,thus there are iron tables available at the dry washing department which is approx. 120 meters far from wet washing and involves extra effort of carrying the lot from wet washing to dry washing. So there should be iron tables available at the wet washing only. Advantage- avoidance of extra effort in transportation.
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After implying the various recommendations and changes the time process change for process breakdown and time study will change as shown in figure 1.7.
TIMEOPERATION AFTER IMPLEMENTATION
Figure 1.7 Time breakdown of Puncture Patches process after the implementation
Time achieved- 263.8 SEC Time saved after implementation = 5.5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 4.39 = 1.11 mins
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manpower
after implementation
4 workers decreased
before implentation
0
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Figure 1.8 Manpower Reduction of Puncture Patches process
Therefore as it is evident from figure 1.8 above that the reduction of manpower was from 4 to 8 which is considerably a huge profit in terms of manpower. This profit in terms of manpower is quite effective and profitable because these 4 workers can be used for other tasks rather than unnecessary being engaged in the puncture patches process.
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IMPLEMENTATION SuccessThe bottles of glue are poured in the bowl initially and the bottles are also cut when the glue is at its base so that that much of glue is also used. A denim patch is used for pressing the patches. Manpower is reduced from 8-4. Time reduced from 335 sec to 263.8 sec for completing the process for one denim. Failure â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Wrinkles are hard to avoid so there will be ironing of the garment at the last. The pressing bed cannot be removed constantly. Stick and brush allows drying of the glue on its surface and ruptures the surface.
RESULT: Hence we see only 1.1 min is saved but that is a lot to affect the production as in a shift of 8 hours nearby 200-250 garments are completes thus there will be a time saving of 250ËŁ 1.1= 275 mins, hence proving a worthy time saving activity.
CONCLUSION The two processes which were mould whiskering and puncture patches after the improvement in the processes gave the profits in terms of cost cutting and manpower, hence contributing in the productivity and efficiency.
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Project#2 Quality Checking and Audit Module Quality Checking implies the continuous monitoring and evaluation of the output for making it high in quality, which leads to a better productivity and sets the quality standards. Audit means an official inspection of the organizations account or the data to achieve production at the required time, in required amount and also having good quality. Hence the Quality Checking and Audit Module is a continuous activity to keep the production in command and also get the best quality in time In denim washing there is always a continuous monitoring and quality checking of the garments,so there is a need of regular inspection of the garments for a better productivity. Thus this quality module will bring the quality constraints close to the authorized people and will benefit in malfunctioning the defects and the red tagged activities. Aim: 1. To reduce the unnecessary paperwork. 2. Cutting down the hierarchy of various reports. 3. Making a better and more feasible face report including all the required constraints with the help of the existing ground level reports. 4. Inspecting each and every process and accounting its K.P.Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s (Key Performance Indicators) 5. Maintaining the records of effective and non-effective production. 6. Maintaining the records for employee and their efficiency which will be helpful for their incentives. 7. Developing a common database which is accessible to only authorized people.
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8. Other reports/queries and audits can be attached to the follow up of the database.
Description: In this setup, the Quality and Audit Module has a common process Breakdown as shown in figure 2.1 but is divided into two sets of activities: Set 1 deal with clubbing the various types of reports on the ground level which are noneffective and need an improvement in terms of quality and feasibility to a more confined and classified reports with all the constraints for each and every process for a) Dry washing and b) Wet washing. In both the parts there are different face reports for a) Quality checking and b) Auditing
Set 2 deals with making a common server along with database for the denim washing unit which will be accessible for authorized people only and all the reports will be made available on that server along with the queries, audits and the quality constraints.
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Process for making the Quality and Audit module setup 1.Collecting the ground level reports (DRY WASHING & WET WASHING)
2.Researching and monitoring the reports
3.Making a final face report
4.Implementing it on the production floor
5.Developing the server with the database
6. online auditing and attachment of reports
Figure 2.1Standard Procedure for developing the Quality and Audit module Setup
Note:
Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 are done for both the areas of denim washing
separately, which are:
a) Dry Process b) Wet Process. Whereas the 5 th and 6th
step is done collectively for both the areas.
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(A)Dry process
1. Collecting the ground level reports. First step was to select the reports which were non-effective and needed an improvement and collectthem for the Dry Process areawhich was already being followed in the unit. This step was done for two areas i.
Quality checking
ii.
Auditing
For QUALITY CHECKING The reports under consideration were: Dry process Update chart Hand sanding report Hand sanding final checking report Mould whisker final checking report Operators hourly production report
For AUDITING The report under consideration was: Dry process Q.A audit final report Dry process Q.A audit report Dry process Q.A final report
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2. Research and monitoring the reports.
FOR QUALITY CHECKING For a synchronized quality checking in dry washing, 5 reports of quality which already existed and were followed haphazardly were selected for the improvement. These reports were: 1. Dry process update chart:(shown in figure 2.2) Constraints: Line wise Process wise Time wise Date wise Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature Account of monthly production, Target/Hr, Production/Hr and Rework/Hr
Figure 2.2 Dry Process Update Chart
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2. Hand Sanding report Constraints; Employee wise Shift wise Style wise Time wise Shift wise Date wise % of rework, yellow tag and red tag. Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature Account of checked pieces, red tag pieces, and rework pieces. Especially for major brands like LEVIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Sas shown in figure 2.3 and H&M as shown in figure 2.4 there are different hand sanding reports which have the same constraints as above.
Figure 2.3 H&M Hand Sanding Report
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Figure 2.4 LEVI’SHand Sanding Report
3. Hand Sanding Final Checking Report(shown in figure 2.5) Constraints Date wise Module wise Buyer wise Style wise Emery paper type Authority’s signature Account of checking quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, yellow tag, checker name, red tag and rework status.
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Figure 2.5 Hand Sanding Final Checking Report
4. Mould Whisker Final Checking Report( shown in figure 2.6) Constraints: Buyer wise Date wise Time wise Style wise Emery paper type Lot wise Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature % of rework Account emery paper type, checking pieces, pass quantity, rework, yellow tag, red tag, remarks, checker name and rework status.
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Figure 2.6Mould Whiskering Final Checking Report
5. Operators Hourly Production Report(shown in figure 2.7) Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Shift wise Date wise Operator’s wise Machine wise Time wise Authority’s signature Account of sticker no. m/c no., orapps
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.Figure 2.7 Operators Hourly Production Report
FOR AUDITING For a synchronized AUDITING in dry washing, two reports of quality which already existed and were followed haphazardly were selected for the improvement. These reports were:
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. 1. Dry Process Q.A Audit Final Report(shown in figure 2.8) Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Lot wise Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature % of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut. Account of sample size, rework quantity, folding mark, thread mark, and thread cut, red tag, emery paper type, remarks and action.
Figure 2.8Dry Process QA Audit Final Report
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2. Dry Process Q.A Final Report(shown in figure 2.9) Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Lot wise Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature % of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag. Account of checked quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity, folding mark, thread mark, and thread cut, red tag, remarks and action.
Figure 2.9Dry Process QA Final Report
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3. Dry Process Q.A Audit Report (shown in figure 2.11) Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Lot wise Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature Account of orapps, yellow tag, red tag, pass, fail and remarks
Figure 2.10Dry Process QA Audit Report
These are the reports which have different constraints and keep account of various attributes important for quality and auditing.
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Findings/Problems i. In these reports for QUALITY and AUDITING there were constraints which were common for the above reports like: date, time, lot, buyer and shift. ii. The key performance indicators were not mentioned for different processes. iii. Failed in making the use of all attributes in one along the quality check when the attributes are common for most of the cases.
For solving these problems next step came into the action.
3. Making a final face report
FOR QUALITY: For making the final face report named DRY WASHING Q.A AUDIT FINAL REPORT, I applied a “SETS”theory/concept used in mathematics as shown in figure 2.11: This derives: Considering any 3 above reports Let, Dry process Update chart is set A Hand sanding report is set B Operator’s hourly production reportis set C And, DRY PROCESS OPERATORS HOURLY CHECKING REPORT is set Z. And A, B and C are the subsets of set Z, then set diagram will be
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Figure 2.11.Set Theory of Constraints
The left colors are for the common constraints between the two or three sets of the set Z, hence these constraints were made common and rest three constraints on the right side were added to that report which was only a small percentage. So the final face report named Operators Hourly Production Reporthad the constraints: i.
Employee wise
ii.
Time wise
iii.
Buyer wise
iv.
Date wise
v.
Process wise
vi.
Shift wise
vii.
Line wise
viii.
Shift wise
ix.
Module wise
x.
Authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature
xi.
% of rework, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag and DHU
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Accounting pieces completed, sample size, rework quantity, folding mark, thread cut, red tag, checker name, remark and action.
xiii.
Separately can just tick on the process type : scrapping or whiskering
Hence there was a final face report called OPERATORS HOURLY PRODUCTION REPORT
FOR AUDITING The same “SETS” theory for constraints were used to make a final face report for auditing which had all the constraints and most importantly the Key Performance Indicators (K.P.I’s)were included to the final face report. So the final face report named DRY PROCESS AUDIT FINAL REPORT had the constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Lot wise Authority’s signature % of rework%, folding mark, thread mark, thread cut, red tag. Account of checked quantity, pass quantity,rework quantity, folding mark, thread mark, and thread cut, red tag, emery paper type, remarks and action. Key Performance Indicators (K.P.I’s) were the main attributes mentioned in the report. These were: For checking: i.
Displaying standard
ii.
Shade matching
iii.
Adequate light
iv.
Marking
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For record: i.
Sand paper used
ii.
Pressure of balloon
iii.
Moulds used
Hence there was a final face report called DRY PROCESS AUDIT FINAL REPORT
Advantage of Making the Face Report in Dry Process:
1. All the required constraints for bulk production in dry wash present in the report 2. It limited the three reports to one and decreased the paper work 3. It also substantially helped in checking the reports on an optimized level 4. Higher authority wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find it difficult to look into one report rather than searching for the other reports. 5. Key Performance Indicators mentioned in the required report. 6. Saving time and labor of the supervisors and managers. 7. Effective inspection
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B.) WET PROCESS
4. Collecting the ground level reports. First step was to select the reports which were non-effective and needed an improvement and collect them for the Wet Process areawhich was already being followed in the unit. This step was done for two areas: iii.
Quality checking
iv.
Auditing
For QUALITY CHECKING The reports under consideration were: 1. Washing Quality Checking report 2. Washing Rework and Rejection details report
For AUDITING The report under consideration was: Washing Quality Process control lot wise audit report- Unwash Washing and Dry process control lot wise audit report Washing Quality Process control lot wise audit report- Semi Wash Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots audit (Semi) Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots audit (Final) NOTE: In auditing reports 1,2 and 3 were combined to make one final face report and
report 4 and 5 were combined to make a final face report.
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2. Research and monitoring the reports FOR QUALITY CHECKING For a synchronized quality checking in wet washing, 2 reports of quality which already existed and were followed haphazardly were selected for the improvement. These reports were: 1. Washing quality checking report (shown in figure 2.12) Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Date wise Account of checked quantity, pass quantity, pass quantity, rework quantity and remark
Figure 2.12Washing Quality Checking Report
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2. Washing Rework And Rejection Details Report(shown in figure 2.13) Constraints: Date wise Style wise Process wise Various types of defects for wet process, pp spray, dry process, resin spray
Figure 2.13 Washing Rework and Rework Rejection Details Report
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FOR AUDITING For a synchronized AUDITING in dry washing, two reports of quality which already existed and were followed haphazardly were selected for the improvement. These reports were:
1. Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Unwash(shown in figure 2.14)
Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Date wise Shift wise Lot quantity wise Audit quantity wise Account of order quantity shade no., cut no., major defects, process making, DP concept, audit status, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature, and remarks.
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Figure 2.14 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Unwash
2. WASHING QUALITY PROCESS CONTROL LOT WISE AUDIT REPORT- SEMI WASH (shown in figure 2.15)
Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Date wise Lot quantity wise Account of machine no., pass, fail, percentage, major defects, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature and remarks
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Figure 2.15 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report- Semi Wash
3. Washing And Dry Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report(shown in figure 2.16)
Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Date wise Shift wise Lot quantity wise Account of order quantity, pass quantity, audit status, major defect, process missing, DP concept, remarks, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature and orapps.
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Figure 2.16 Washing And Dry Process Control Wise Lot Report
4. Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots Audit (Semi)(shown in figure 2.17)
Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Order quantity wise Date wise Process wise Shift wise Checked quantity wise Account of cut no., shade variation, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sign, orapps and remarks
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Figure 2.17 Washing Process Control- Initial 5 Lots (Semi)
5. Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots Audit (Final)(shown in figure 2.18)
Constraints: Buyer wise Style wise Order quantity wise Date wise Process wise Shift wise Checked quantity wise Account of cut no., shade variation, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sign, orapps and remarks
These are the reports which have different constraints and keep account of various attributes important for quality and auditing.
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Figure 2.18 Washing Process Control- Initial 5 Lots (Final)
Findings/Problems iv. In these reports for QUALITY and AUDITING there were constraints which were common for the above reports like: date, time, lot, buyer and shift. v. The key performance indicators were not mentioned for different processes in the important reports. vi. There was use of two different reports for the same attributes with the only difference of a single variable. vii. Failed in making the use of all attributes in one along the quality check when the attributes are common for most of the cases
For solving these problems next step came into the action.
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5. Making a final face report
FOR QUALITY:
The same “SETS” theory for constraints were used to make a final face report for Quality Thus there was a final face report made for Quality for wet washing and also for dry processing inspection at the wet washing area and following were the reports improved and made for the production floor for wet washing: a.) The final report for Quality came out as WASHING QUALITY CHECKING REPORT having constraints as shown in figure 2.19 for wet process and figure 2.20 for dry process: Date wise Lot wise Buyer wise Style wise Account of pass quantity, rework quantity containing defects, total rework quantity and remark.
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Figure 2.19 Washing Quality Checking Report
Figure 2.20 Washing Quality Checking Report(Dry Process)
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FOR AUDITING:
First three reports were improved and made appropriate for the correct auditing process and a final report came out as: WASHING QUALITY PROCESS CONTROL WISE AUDIT REPORT(shown in figure 2.21) having constraints: Stage wise Including the KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS (K.P.I’S) Buyer wise Style wise Date wise Lot wise Shade wise Cut wise Account of lot quantity, audit quantity, pass, fail, major defects, process missing, authority’s signature and remarks.
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Figure 2.21 Washing Quality Process Control wise Audit Report
The last two reports were clubbed and improved for making the following face report named as WASHING PROCESS CONTROL-INITIAL 4 LOTS(shown in figure 2.22) having constraints:
Reducing the 5 lots to 4 lots Stage wise Including the KEY PERFORMANCE INDICATORS (K.P.Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S) Buyer wise Style wise Order quantity wise Date wise Process wise 233 | P a g e
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Shift wise Checked quantity wise Account of cut no., shade variation, authorityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sign, orapps and remarks
Figure 2.22 Washing Process Control-Initial 4 Lots
Advantage of Making the Face Report at Wet Process: 1. All the required constraints for bulk production in wet wash present in the report 2. It limited the seven reports to three and decreased the paper work 3. It also substantially helped in checking the reports on an optimized level 4. Higher authority wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find it difficult to look into one report rather than searching for the other reports. 5. Key Performance Indicators mentioned in the required report. 6. Saving time and labor of the supervisors and managers. 7. Effective inspection 234 | P a g e
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4. Implementing it on the production floor. After developing the final face report it was implemented and run on the floor, the report which came out after the successful implementation was appropriate for synchronized data and quality audit proving more advantageous for both the QULAITY and AUDITING.
5. Developing the server with the database. After making the various faces reports in dry process, I developed and enquired software called IsoXpress shown in figure 2.23 in which QUALITY and AUDITMODULE was made by me for the better functioning of the process and record checking through the final face reports.
Figure 2.23 Quality and Audit module through IsoXpress
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Description about the IsoXpress The software is a local server which is accessible via a username and a password. We can insert the software in the computer and the person knowing the username and password can access it. Advantage of using IsoXpress as a local server
Using the software we can enquire and enter the reports online of quality and audits. Simultaneously we can attach the brief description of the reports via an automatic indent. Any authorized person can look into the reports without going to the required place. Requirement of IsoXpress in Denim Washing There is a haphazard alignment and utilization of the reports. There are many hierarchies of the reports in washing so using the software there can be a cut on to the unnecessary use of this hierarchy format. Most importantly the higher officials can look into the reports without running to the dry process and wet process area. Quality department can monitor on the activities regularly through the server only.
6. Online auditing and attachment of qualityreports. The online auditing and attachment of quality reports can be done in the following steps: STEP 1. ) Opening the software STEP 2.) Entering the USERNAME and PASSWORD in the login pageas shown in figure 2.24.
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Figure 2.24 Log In Screen
STEP 3.)Welcome page will be opened (shown in figure 2.25)
Figure 2.25 Home Screen
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STEP 4.)Click on the “Qlty Audits” option on the right side (shown in figure 2.26)
Figure 2.26 Quality Audit Option
STEP 5.)Add, Edit or delete the report with the help of the operations in the left top side (shown in figure 2.27)
Figure 2.27 ”Internal Audit” Screen
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STEP 6.) To see the existing report, click on the report and a pop-up screen will flash with 3 options: 1. Reports (shown in figure 2.29) 2. Attachments (shown in figure 2.30) 3. Template(shown in figure 2.31)
Figure 2.28 “Internal Audit Record” Screen
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o Click on “report” to see the brief description of the report with all necessary details regarding the attachment
Figure 2.29 ”Report” Screen
o Click on “attachment” to open the report
Figure 2.30 “Attachments” Screen
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o Click on “templates” to change the format of option (i)
Figure 2.31 “Template” Screen
Hence by these steps we can make a synchronized module for quality and auditing which is more effective and time saving.
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CONCLUSION This module is set to bring close the quality and auditing aspects from ground level of the production floor to the higher level. This module not only helps in making the quality aspects more prominent but also increases the efficiency of monitoring activities. A common lay for quality and auditing is set for everyone in the denim washing department and everyone is linked with the critical activities of the production.
LEARNING OUTCOME
Our internship at Arvind Mills Ltd. over the period of fourteen weeks has been a highly enriching experience. We received the practical acumen of operations of various departments. This has led to the belief that studying a subject and implementing it in real scenario are two completely different tasks. The project that we received on Measurement issues and Process Development and Quality and Audit Module gave us knowledge in various fields and led to our practical involvement in the industry. As a part of internship we visited various departments and experienced firsthand how a garment industry functions. In pursuit of our project work we learnt that soft skills play a major role in receiving information and having oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work done. We also got opportunity to interact with operators and seniors for getting information
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/quaterly_financial_reporting/ArvindC orporatePresentationFebruary2012.pdf http://www.arvindmills.com/pdf/annaul_finacial_reporting/annualrepo rt201011.pdf
http://www.arvindmills.com/heritage/history.html
http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2013/06/10/globalcarbon-emissions-record-high/2408487/
http://www.haverford.edu/educ/knight-booklet/chemreact.html
http://www.epa.gov/climatechange/ghgemissions/gases/co2.html
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ANNEXURES
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