Adventura - Spring 2012 by Christian Levesque

THE WEEK-LONG WARRIOR

What you need to know to plan your next healthy holiday

MINIMALIST RUNNING

Fashion or (R)evolution?

[GEAR]

Fresh Air: Running Shoes New Camping Gear

RYDER HESJEDAL Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cycling Superstar NATHAN KUTCHER Underdog Climber Reaches the Top BUMP UP PERFORMANCE With the Sunshine Vitamin VOL. 4, NO. 1

| SPRING 2012 | free | adventuramag.ca

Content SPRING 2012

THE WEEK-LONG WARRIOR At Andalucian Cycling Experience, there are short, medium and long options offered each day, enabling each rider to join a group they are comfortable riding with. Read more on vacations that focus on fitness on page 16.

04 EDITOR’S NOTE FIELD REPORT 06 Ryder Hesjedal: Canada’s Cycling Superstar 07

Studying the Bikeability of Toronto and Montreal Put Your Money Where Your Mouth Is

Nathan Kutcher: Underdog Climber Reaches the Top Bump Up Performance with the Sunshine Vitamin

SPRING AGENDA

DAYTRIPPER

GEAR 22 Fresh Air: New Running Shoes

WEEKEND GATEWAY Parc national du Lac-Témiscouata

MIND & BODY 26 Minimalist Running: Fashion or (R)evolution?

LIVING LARGE

The Gluten-Free Diet

FEATURE The Week-Long Warrior

LAST CALL Terra Nova National Park

GLOBETROTTER Going Back to Gros Morne

New Camping Gear

adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 3

///EDITOR’S NOTE

Mini-ME A totally new

rad adventure just began for me: my girlfriend gave birth to our first child, a girl. From the beginning, we called our fetus “Dragon.” Since this is the Dragon year and Marie is one-eighth Chinese, we thought it was a good working title. In fact, we just didn’t know yet what name would suit her, and we didn’t want to mess up this first important decision. But it was important for us to give her a name that would sound as good in French as in English – and one you can search on Google without getting 10 billion results. In fact, we didn’t even want to know the gender of our baby right away. So we pressed on with no answer to give people who were wondering what colour they should choose for

old she would need to be before I could bring her along for winter camping or ice climbing, she answered: “Not before she’ll be able to say she’s cold!” We have high hopes that we’ll be able to introduce her to enough outdoor activities to awaken her passion for an active lifestyle. Will this passion be as strong as ours or even stronger? We do pray that her desire for sleeping in a tent, hiking in the woods, climbing rocks or even riding a bike in the mud will be stronger than her desire for going shopping with her friends. After all, we already have a pair of skis and a climbing harness for her! The issue you hold in your hands right now feels a little bit like a newborn. Though the magazine launched just four years ago, the real novelty this time around is the new format and glossy paper. Man, I could not be more proud

a baby gift. What a blast we had bringing people inside our little mystery adventure. We asked the doctor to write the baby’s gender down and put it in an envelope that we opened on Christmas Eve. It was magical. Just like overcoming adversity in the wilderness and knowing you’ll be all right, or getting rid of your ski skins atop a big slope after a 10-inch snowfall, seconds before an epic descent. This new project, as with anything we do when we go off the beaten path, kind of followed our plans. But as with any adventure, things never turn out as you thought they would. Everything went well except at the very end, when our little angel decided to be upside down at the worst moment. Marie didn’t know exactly what risks a Caesarean could entail, but she didn’t have any choice either. After a quick operation, Naomi opened her eyes for the first time. Will she be a climber? A skier? Will she love the outdoors as much as we do? It’s hard to say. When I asked Marie how

of what we’ve accomplished. I know you love the stories we bring to you because I read all your emails. This new beginning is like a new step in the evolution of our publication. It feels like it is old enough to venture a little bit further out of bounds. And this is precisely why we love the outdoors so much! One of my friends told me that when you have kids, your life stops. I’m not sure what he meant: since I’ve become a father, I see a new opportunity to get out and spread the love for the outdoors. It might sound cliché, but I see the world in a brand new way. Just like my daughter’s eyeballs are running across everything she discovers for the first time, I am excited to be able to share those passions with one more person on this earth. And that is just awesome!

PUBLISHER: Stéphane Corbeil (stephane.corbeil@adventuramag.ca) EDITOR: Chris Levesque (christian.levesque@adventuramag.ca) SENIOR EDITOR: Stephania Varalli | stephania.varalli@adventuramag.ca CONTRIBUTORS: Liz Bruckner, Véronique Champagne, Bryen Dunn,Patrice

ADVERTISING:

This new project, as with anything we do when we go off the beaten path, kind of followed our plans. But as with any adventure, things never turn out as you thought they would.

Chris Levesque, Editor @chrislevesque

Spring 2012 :: Vol. 4 :: No. 1

Halley, Ilona Kauremszky, Shelagh McNally, Travis Persaud, Frédérique Sauvée, Kathleen Wilker.

PROOFREADER: Christopher Korchin TRANSLATOR: Christine Laroche COVER PHOTO: A couple, brightly dressed, hiking along the rocky shore of

Rialto Beach, Washington. Driftwood covers the shore in the distance from major storms pushing the logs beyond the tide line. © Jordan Siemens / Aurora Photos

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4 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

CIRCULATION: 60,000 copies distributed to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere. ADVENTURA is published four times a year by Groupe Espaces Inc., a division of Gesca Publishing Inc. ARTICLE SUBMISSIONS: ADVENTURA welcomes editorial and photo submissions,

which must be sent by e-mail only. Contact the Editor to discuss. ADVENTURA is not responsible for articles, photographs or any other material sent to its attention. If you do not keep a copy of ADVENTURA magazine for your personal archives, please give it to a friend or recycle it.The opinions expressed are those of the authors and are not necessarily shared by Groupe Espaces Inc. Some of the activities reported on in ADVENTURA could entail injury risks for anyone engaging in them. ADVENTURA and its reporters, contributors, photographers and other staff members do not recommend the practice of these activities by anyone who does not have the required skills and technique. ADVENTURA is not responsible for the information contained in advertisements. Any reproduction of material published in ADVENTURA is prohibited without the expressed consent of Groupe Espaces Inc.

FIELD REPORT

Ryder Hesjedal

Canada’s Cycling Superstar

Do you remember your first bike? My parents bought me a tricycle that I was riding by the age of three. I then somehow ended up with a motorized bike that I don’t recall how I got, and I sold that to buy a Kona mountain bike when I was in the seventh grade. What was the first race you ever entered? A friend of mine organized a mountain bike race called “Mackenzie Mud” on Vancouver Island that I rode in at 12 years old. I’m not sure what place I finished, but I remember having a lot of fun and knew I wanted to continue riding.

How did that lead up to racing professionally? I first started making money when I was 16, finishing in the top rankings at various local junior-level elite categories. I graduated high school at 17 and competed in my last junior race, and then decided to take up racing professionally a year later in 1999. I raced mountain bikes until 2001, and then began racing road bikes in 2002. I participated in both mountain and road competitions simultaneously for about three years, until 2005, when I switched to road only. What is one of your most memorable moments in your career? I’ve had plenty of moments in life that are memorable, but I’d have to say starting in my first Tour de France would still rank at the top. I first aspired to ride in it back in 2003, and five years later I was at the starting line with the most elite in the professional cycling world. What tips would you give to anyone interested in taking on racing as a professional sport? Cycling is more than a sport. It’s a yearround lifestyle from morning to night. I can spend up to eight hours a day on a bike. The body is a machine, and it requires plenty of fruits and vegetables to keep it running smoothly. I go by what my body requires, and I modify my intake in accordance to my physical exertion. Riding and racing is a life

commitment that is going to take time, and you should realize that it’s a benefit to the body whether you win or not. Two years ago you co-launched the inaugural Ryder Hesjedal’s Tour de Victoria. What were your reasons behind starting your own ride? Besides the fact that Victoria is my home and the route takes in many of the same areas that I personally trained in over the years, it is a benefit to charities I support. All proceeds from the Tour de Victoria’s community ride benefit the Power To Be Adventure Therapy Society, a program facilitating outdoor education for individuals and families facing significant life challenges. Beyond your home stomping ground of Vancouver Island, where else are you training to keep in shape these days? During the winter I train in Hawaii, where I have a place in Maui. A few of us get together

Put Your Money Where Your Mouth Is BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

Take a moment and think about the gear you use to make yourself perform better at your sport. If you’re a runner, you may be loyal to a specific brand of shoe. A cyclist might swear by their frame choice. If you trained through the winter, maybe there’s a base layer you can’t live without. And gear junkies might be thinking about their compression clothing, or custom electrolyte blend or GPS-enabled microcomputer with mega-analyzing abilities... Here’s one you probably didn’t consider: performance mouthwear. This trademarked concept comes from Under Armour, and it is promising to deliver better results for athletes across all sports. The product is called ArmourBite, a multi-patented mouthpiece that uses (the also trademarked) Power Wedges, which are uniquely shaped to pivot your jaw forward into a specific position. This forces you to unclench your jaw (clenching is a natural reaction when training hard or competing), which 6 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

in turn reduces the production of the stress hormone cortisol. Why should an athlete care? Cortisol kills performance, claims Under Armour. And it is a claim they are backing up with data. In laboratory studies, mostly conducted at The Citadel (The Military College of South Carolina), athletes tested while wearing the product showed increased strength by up to 20 percent, and up to 25 percent less lactic acid buildup after 30 minutes of intense exercise. The tests even showed an improvement in reaction time, although to a less impressive degree. While Under Armour does not post the original studies on their own site, you can find most of them on the Bite Tech Inc. site (bitetech.com); they’re the company that originally developed the technology, and have now partnered with Under Armour.

to have some fun riding, and we host a training camp as well. One of the routes is the East Maui Loop along the Road to Hana, while another climbs up the 3,000-metre Haleakala Volcano. In the spring and summer months I tend to be in Europe, where most of my races are. I particularly enjoy Spain, where I have an apartment in Girona and my team is also based. What’s up next? I have a couple of races on the regular circuit, including the Giro d’Italia and Tour de France. I will also be riding in the London Summer Olympics less than a week after the Tour de France, and the World Championships in Holland, all of which I am super-excited for. ryderhesjedal.ca Ryder’s Tour de Victoria: tourdevictoria.com

For such an impressive list of claims, the device itself seems pretty simple. The Power Wedges sit on your lower rear teeth, attached to EVA plastic that you mould to your mouth. They are connected by a thin T-bar that holds everything in place without restricting your ability to have a conversation (the workout can take care of that part). There’s also a full mouthguard version for contact sports, which uses the same technology but has the bonus of impact protection. Under Armour is selling both the ArmourBite Mouthpiece and Mouthguard on their website for CAD$40, and so far the user reviews have been glowing. There are some skeptics, however, who question how much the product’s improvements in athletic ability are simply in the mind of the wearer. An older version of the product – which is still available through BiteTech – was fully customized, required a dental mould and was priced in the hundreds of dollars. Not the sort of gadget the average athlete can afford to experiment with. Priced at 40 bucks, though, it might be worth trying out an ArmourBite product for yourself. Gear junkies are ordering now...

Ryder Hesjedal, from Victoria, British Columbia, was cast into the spotlight as one of the top cyclists in the world with his seventh-place finish at the Tour de France in 2010 – the highest placement for a Canadian since Steve Bauer’s fourth position in 1988. The 31-yearold, two-time Olympian finished in the top 50 in 2008 and 2009, impressive considering he only began to pursue road racing exclusively in 2005. He rode mountain bikes until 2001, winning seven World Championship medals, then took up road racing and competed in both disciplines simultaneously for three years. He took some time off this past December to get married, but that isn’t keeping him from a busy racing schedule in 2012. Adventura had an opportunity to chat with Ryder about his achievements to date, and what the future holds.

BY BRYEN DUNN

OF TORONTO AND MONTREAL BY KATHLEEN WILKER

Simon Fraser professor Meghan Winters has developed Canada’s first Bikeability Index. This mapping tool measures the factors that make neighbourhoods more or less bike-friendly. How does your city rate? With two young children riding on her cargo bike, Meghan Winters knows how important great cycling infrastructure is for creating safe riding conditions. Winters has studied how

STUDYING THE BIKEABILITY

far out of their way cyclists will travel to ride on premium bike paths. She’s also looked at how effective cycling education is at preventing accidents. Her Bikeability Index, which she first applied to Vancouver, takes into account bicycle facility availability and quality, as well as street connectivity, topography and land use. Neighbourhoods across Vancouver were all measured, and the results layered on a map of the city. The goal: to guide local action to improve cycling and inform decisions made by city planners. Winters’ Bikeability tool was so popular in Vancouver that she’s been invited to apply the Bikeability Index to municipalities across the country. She has already submitted data to her partner organization, Walkscore, that assists planners and helps people moving into a neighbourhood determine if they’ll be able to walk to grocery stores, transit stops and other important destinations. Winters’ data, along with information on creating a “Bikescore,” will enable the calculation of the bikeability of each city she investigated. Toronto and Montreal are two of the 10 pilot cities Winters has examined through the Bikeability Index lens. “Toronto and Montreal have very different cycling infrastructure,” states Winters, noting that Montreal has over 250 kilometres of separated bike routes in the city on major city streets, whereas Toronto currently has an extensive network of off-street paths but fewer routes through the city on roads. “If you really want to get somewhere within a city, you need bicycle routes on roads,” says Winters. “Because Montreal has such an advanced and interconnected network, layering programs like Bixi on top

of that existing infrastructure has been very successful,” says Winters. “Infrastructure and programming go hand in hand.” Creating standards for measuring Canadian cities has been challenging. In gathering information from municipalities across the country, Winters has found that coming up with common language to describe cycling facilities, like trails, would be useful. “In some more rural areas, ‘off-street path’ refers to a mulch path. Elsewhere, the same name refers to a paved route,” says Winter. “A bark mulch path would make a nice trail, but it’s not really appropriate for transportation purposes.” Another challenge beyond common language is data availability. Cities that support Open Data, like Vancouver and Toronto, were much easier for Winters to research because she was able to easily locate the data she needed in a central location. “With Open Data, in two clicks I can download the data I need. Open Data makes putting data that is already gathered to use in multiple and creative ways possible.” Elsewhere, Winters found that cycling data was sometimes maintained by the municipality’s planning department and other times held by the recreation department. Considering bicycle-friendly cities and population health are closely connected, any municipality would stand to benefit from understanding and improving their Bikeability Index. Winters will be presenting her findings on building Bikeability Indexes at the Velo City Global 2012 Conference in Vancouver, June 26–29.

FIELD REPORT

Underdog Climber Reaches the Top BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

to bed early and drank a lot of Gatorade and ate plenty of bananas to keep my potassium up. The morning of the race, I was one of the first ones to compete. They give you just a couple of minutes to inspect the circuit and then I did an on-sight climb, which means I had no prior knowledge of the route. I usually do a lot of red pointing, where you work on the moves. This was my first time at this mixed competition in Ouray, so I just focused and took my time. I thought I would be nervous but I wasn’t. When I finally topped out by the narrow gorge, I finished and watched the others, who looked like they were going faster. I didn’t care about winning.

Nathan Kutcher has no sponsors, works 50-plus hours at another job and lives in St. Catharines, Ontario – an area he describes as “Ontario’s Riviera” for its mild winters and remarkable flatlands. Yet he’s currently North America’s best ice climber, a title he earned using his bare hands at the renowned Ouray Ice Climbing Festival in Colorado earlier this year. Outshining 18 elite climbers, the 35-year-old was one of only two to top out. With 80 seconds left on the clock, he beat the odds and earned first place. What do you think you did that made you win North America’s biggest ice climbing competition? I knew Ouray was 8,000 feet above sea level, and I live at 250 feet, so I needed to acclimatize to the altitude. We did a road trip and arrived a week earlier. All during the festival, there’s free beer and food but I stayed away from that, went 8 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

How did you prepare? This was my first ice climbing competition, so I took all my skills and my rock climbing experience (I’ve been doing that for over 18 years) and just kept practising and practising. In my backyard, I made a 16-foot-tall ice climbing training course, and in my basement I made a bouldering cave. Every free moment I have I climb. I would drive five hours north to find ice falls just so that I could practice. One of the most challenging climbs in Ontario I established is outside Elora in a cave I named the Centipede. It’s very steep and about 70 feet long and feels like you’re climbing on the ceiling of your living room. All in all I’ve established 100 routes across Ontario. I love to climb so I really don’t think about it. I just find a good spot, focus and climb. What advice do you have for the guy who lives in a small apartment and wants to climb but doesn’t have a clue? Seek a qualified instructor, find a mentor or a climbing buddy, and start indoors. I don’t think going outdoors first is the best way to approach this sport. Get some basic gear. Forget about those high-performance shoes, which are really expensive because they are designed for pro athletes and aren’t made for wear and tear; in the beginning there will be a lot of footing mishaps and errors, so you’ll want something sturdy. Get a chalk bag and some rope. For ice climbing, I like leash-less tools. They have handles that are easier to hold on to but don’t have the leash to get in the way. NATHAN KUTCHER’S FAVOURITE EVENTS Rocktoberfest – Red River Gorge, Kentucky – rrgcc.org “It’s cool because the Red River Gorge Climber Coalition purchased a bunch of undeveloped land by the gorge, and this annual fundraiser helps pay it off. The gorge is beautiful and the routes have some of the best climbs.” New River Rendezvous – West Virginia – facebook.com/NewRiverRendezvous “This has got to be one of the coolest climbing events in the U.S. It’s put on by the New River Alliance of Climbers and helps pay for trail building and repair of old anchors. There are thousands of routes here in some spectacular surroundings.”

Bump Up Performance With the Sunshine Vitamin BY SHELAGH MCNALLY

Nathan Kutcher

We’ve known about Vitamin D’s connection to bone development for a while, but it looks like that’s not all that the sunshine vitamin can do. New research shows it may also help the body utilize calcium, strengthen the immune system and allow muscle fibres to grow and develop normally. There also appears to be a link between Vitamin D deficiency and an increased risk of common cancers, autoimmune diseases, hypertension and infectious diseases. “Vitamin D can up-regulate and down-regulate hundreds, maybe even thousands, of genes,” says D. Enette LarsonMeyer, an assistant professor in the Department of Family and Consumer Sciences at the University of Wyoming. “We’re only at the start of understanding how important it is.” Larson-Meyer is one of the researchers studying the effects this “sleeper nutrient” has on athletic performances. His study found that adolescent athletes with the lowest level of Vitamin D couldn’t jump as high as those with greater levels. Researchers at the University of North Carolina have found evidence that low levels may also contribute to sports injuries, since Vitamin D is so crucial to bone and muscle health. Their research measured Vitamin D levels in athletes training outside year-round and found they were at their fittest in August, when the days are long and they were getting much more exposure to the sun. “There is scientific evidence that UVB radiation, either from the sun or a sunbed, will improve athletic performance, and the mechanism is almost certainly vitamin D production,” said John J. Cannell, MD, Executive Director of the Vitamin D Council. Thanks to our long winter and lack of sun, most Canadians are Vitamin D deficient. A simple blood test can determine your level – anything below 50-70 ng/ml (nanograms per millilitre) is considered lacking. Health Canada recommends a daily intake of between 600 IU (15 mcg) to 4000 IU (100 mcg) for adults. So if it has been a while since you’ve soaked up some rays, bump up your Vitamin D and you may just start performing better.

AGENDA////// Great outdoor events in Ontario and Quebec to kick off your spring. BY KATHLEEN WILKER

APRIL APR. 8

// Hell of the North Endras Farm, Uxbridge, Ontario Early-season cyclocross classic to start your racing season with a bang. Brought to you by Real Deal Racing and La Bicicletta. realdealracing.ca

APR.

14–15

// Minesing Swamp Overnight Canoe Trip Willow Creek, Edenvale, Ontario Beat the bugs on an early-spring paddle. Join a naturalist adventure through this diverse and provincially significant wetland. All equipment, meals and guiding are supplied. earthtracks.ca

APR. 22

// Toronto Yonge Street 10K Toronto the Good becomes Toronto the Active on this run down the historic main street from north of Eglinton to west of Bathurst. New date and time for this year. toronto10k.ca

APR. 28

// 5 Peaks Trail Running Series Rattlesnake Point Conservation Area, Milton, Ontario

Touted as the most technical of the Ontario courses, Rattlesnake has continually been a favourite among trail runners. Runners are treated to the shade of hardwood forests and some incredible single-track in this area situated along the Niagara Escarpment. 5peaks.com

APR. 29

// The Chocolate Race Port Dalhousie, Ontario New, earlier, chocolate-friendly date. Indulge in the finest treats on and after your run. Move over, post-race bagels – it’s chocolate croissant time. thechocolaterace.com

APR. 29

// Ontario Cup Mansfield, Ontario This spring mountain bike race has something for everyone and offers early-spring racing on well-drained soil. With men’s and women’s beginner races, the Try-an-O Cup, sport-level races and an elite level, anyone can join in on the fun. chicoracing.com

MAY MAY

//Frontier Adventure Challenge Huntsville, Ontario A classic adventure race: 40K biking, paddling and trekking through the Muskoka wilderness, with nothing but a map and compass to guide you. Challenging and fun for firsttimers and experienced competitors. far.on.ca

MAY 12

// ROGAINE Laurentides Mont-Bleu, Quebec Test your orienteering skills with a ROGAINE – or Rugged Outdoor Group Activity Involving Navigation and Endurance. Participants join in teams of two to four to reach as many locations as possible and make it back to the finish line in the

allotted time. Points are awarded for each location reached, with harder checkpoints scoring higher. www3.sympatico.ca/montbleu

MAY 13

// MEC Bike Fest Ottawa, Ontario Join cycling enthusiasts in a one-day celebration of cycling and cycling advocacy. Held on the grounds of the War Museum, the event includes demonstrations, bike repair workshops and fun cycling activities for all. mec.ca

MAY 26-27

// Ottawa Race Weekend Ottawa, Ontario Tour two cities in two provinces with thousands of spectators cheering you on. You choose the distance you’re up for: marathon, half-marathon, 10K, 5K or 2K. There’s also a wheelchair marathon. ncm.ca

MAY 29

// Spartan Race Montreal, Quebec The Spartan Sprint is a three-mile muddy race with at least 10 obstacles. Most people finish. Everyone gets dirty. Let out your inner warrior. spartanrace.com

MAY 27–JUNE 3

// Montreal Bike Fest Montreal, Quebec In addition to encouraging everyday cycling, especially cycling to work, this week-long festival wraps up in style. Highlights include the Tour de l’Île, the Metropolitan Challenge and Un Tour la Nuit, an opportunity to enjoy a night ride through the streets of Montreal. veloquebec.info

DAYTRIPPER OTTAWA

WITH THE WEIGHT OF WINTER FINALLY MELTING AWAY, IT’S TIME TO BREATHE IN THE FULL EFFECT OF SPRING.

CLIMBING THE GREAT INDOORS

Think cathedral ceilings, natural light, incredible climbing and bouldering possibilities in a spacious, beautiful, calm environment and you’ve got Altitude Gym. Newly opened (2011) in Gatineau, Quebec, Altitude is built in a refurbished church. “We wanted to create a climbing space that was beautiful and challenging,” says Altitude manager Isabelle Quintin. It’s hard to believe the wall in front of me is not rock. With natural colouring and a rocky feel, I can’t wait to get into the harness and reach for the top. Before climbing, though, my husband and I need to pass the belay test. Boulderers have ample space to play in the centre of the converted sanctuary. And climbs of varying levels

BY KATHLEEN WILKER

of difficulty are offered on every spare patch of wall. “That’s our route board,” says Quintin. “If you come all the time, you can see which routes are new and try those ones first.” As we tour the facilities, Quintin points out a large outdoor play space with posts of various sizes that offer different options for slack-lining and a giant boulder covered in holes where holds are attached in the spring. “That’s where our day camp plays,” explains Quintin. At $175/week and offered in English and in French, the day camp is a steal. Already, Altitude is growing an avid crew of young climbers. The junior team is making a name for itself provincially and

regularly competes with teams from area climbing gyms. As well as the extensive climbing facilities, Quintin invites us to check out Clip ’N Climb, Altitude’s sister business. Equal parts playground, climbing wall and amusement park, this facility is unique in the region. Each participant wears a climbing harness and, after a safety lesson, clips in to the wide variety of fun and themed climbs. It’s a popular spot for birthday parties, and I was very impressed with how calm the large, bright room was despite the kids and parents trying out all the different climbs.

429 other mode

TORONTO

GRANNY GEARS AND GRAPES

The name Twenty Valley should hint at what to expect: This Niagara Escarpment wine region is as full of rolling hills as it is award-winning vintners. Only a one-hour drive from Toronto, the area is best known for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling. Some of the region’s most lauded wineries, including Vineland Estates, Tawse, Cave Spring Cellars, Creekside Estate and Flat Rock Cellars, can all be sampled on a 23-km route that starts at Ball’s Falls Conservation Area. Challenge yourself with 10 more 10 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

kilometres and an uphill climb by tacking on the Jordan Loop of the Waterfront Trail, which makes its way around the harbour to Lake Ontario. You’ll be earning every sip. To satisfy your savoury or sweet cravings (and to soak up some wine), the Upper Canada Cheese Company (uppercanadacheese.com) and Toute Sweet Ice Cream and Truffle shop (toute-sweet.ca) are both in the historic Jordan Station village. For more substantial gourmet fare, try the restaurants at Vineland Estates or Cave Spring.

BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

Activity: Cycling Level: Moderate Season: Weather permitting, best from spring to fall. Most wineries are open between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. (some require tour bookings). Getting there: Follow driving directions to Ball’s Falls Conservation Area, available at ballsfalls.ca. Cost: Expect $5–$10 for wine tastings, unless you purchase a bottle.

Gear: Road or hybrid bicycle, safety gear and plenty of water. Other activities: Hiking in the Ball’s Falls Conservation Area. For More: winecountryontario.ca twentyvalley.ca waterfronttrail.org, section 1, map 5

HERE ARE SOME ACTIVITIES YOU CAN START WHEN THE SUN RISES AND FINISH BEFORE IT SETS.

Activity: Climbing, bouldering, slack-lining Level: Beginner to advanced Season: Year-round Cost: $13.95/day pass. Gear rental and lessons extra. Monthly passes available. Gear: Clean gym shoes are required. Climbing shoes and remaining gear can be rented. Other activities: Clip ’n Climb gym for kids; Day Camp for kids Getting there: Located not far off Autoroute 5 near Gatineau Park (check out the map on their website, on the Contact page) For more: altitudegym.ca

models in store

BELŒIL - BROSSARD - LAVAL - OSHAWA - OTTAWA - QUEBEC - VAUGHAN

MONTRÉAL

HOLY HIKE

You won’t want to leave your walking stick behind for this pilgrimage! Inspired by Europe’s Chemin de Compostelle, the Chemin des Outaouais, formerly known as the “Chemin des Sanctuaires Outaouais-Montréal,” is a 230-km pilgrimage between Ottawa’s Notre-Dame Cathedral and Montreal’s Saint Joseph’s Oratory. The journey is divided in 12 sections and can be done in as many days, but each leg of the trek can be taken alone. Near Montreal, the 23-km leg between Rigaud and Oka is particularly interesting, as it is one of the most scenic. Begin at the Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes shrine in Rigaud,

BY FRÉDÉRIQUE SAUVÉE

which is an outdoor spot for religious gatherings that just happens to have a gorgeous view of the region above the Rigaud hill. The trails will then lead you along Chemin Grande Ligne toward the city limits, following the Ottawa River by Chemin de l’Anse. Most of the walk is done on low-traffic country roads. The charm of this particular leg of the pilgrimage is the lovely English-style villages you’ll cross in the Hudson area. Once arrived in the town of Como, a ferry ($) takes you to Oka in about 10 minutes. On the other side of Lake of Two Mountains, the journey finishes at the Calvaire d’Oka shrine.

The next sections of the Chemin des Outaouais lead to Sainte-Marthe-sur-le-Lac, then to Laval, finishing at the Mont-Royal Oratory. It’s also possible to take a different pilgrimage route from Montreal to go to Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, and another that goes all the way to Gaspé. Spirituality meets athleticism in these unique walks that can be enjoyed by all. Activity: Walking Level: Accessible to all

Distance: 23 km Access: From Montreal, take highway 40 West to exit 12 toward Rigaud. Cross the village and turn before the bridge onto 325 South, then turn left on Bourget Street. Turn right on Lourdes Street: You’ve arrived at the Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes sanctuary. Don’t forget to leave a car at the arrival point if you’re not planning a return journey. Information: 819-777-6023 • chemindesoutaouais.ca adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 11

WEEKEND GATEWAY + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +

Parc national du Lac-Témiscouata

FOR THE LOVE OF NATURE BY FRÉDÉRIQUE SAUVÉE

WHILE THE LAC-TÉMISCOUATA NATIONAL PARK WAS CREATED IN 2009, IT WON’T OFFICIALLY OPEN ITS GATES UNTIL NEXT YEAR. HOWEVER, YOU CAN ALREADY HIKE SOME OF THE PATHS OF THE NATIONAL TRAIL OF THE BAS SAINT-LAURENT THAT LIE WITHIN ITS TERRITORY – AN APPEALING OPTION FOR A SNEAK PEEK BEFORE THE BIG OPENING, WHICH IS SURE TO BRING BIG CROWDS OF NATURE LOVERS. The Notre Dame Mountains, which are made up of the western foothills of the Chic-Chocs, are composed of low peaks interspersed with towering glacier valleys like the Matapedia Valley and Lake Temiscouata. It is an unspoiled, naturally wondrous place that seduced Grey Owl, a legendary writer and the father of modern ecology, who lived there in the late 1920s. He was a trapper, and despite his Amerindian looks was actually a Brit named Archibald Belaney who devoted his entire life to the preservation of nature. After a friend told him of the unexploited beauty of Lake Temiscouata, he travelled from Ontario to the Bas Saint-Laurent region in order to establish a sanctuary for beavers, a species that was almost extinct at the time due to the fur trade. He canoed across the 39 kilometres of Lake Temiscouata, then up the Touladi River. On the shores of Au Foin Lake began a three-year-long journey for himself and 12 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

his Amerindian wife. His time was devoted to the conservation of beavers and penning books about biodiversity and environmental issues. If Grey Owl is so important today for the Sépaq team that has been managing Lac-Témiscouata National Park since 2009, it is because he embodies the ongoing battle for the preservation

words show us what it must have looked like at the time, a stark contrast to what it is today. There has been much logging in the area during the past 50 years, but we’re determined to preserve the flora and fauna. Thanks to the creation of the park, 45 percent of Lake Temiscouata’s shores are protected.” After leaving the area, Grey Owl became a spokesperson for

Sépaq is on the ground, working hard to build the infrastructure of the park. Its inauguration, first scheduled for 2012, was delayed due to heavy rains last spring. In the meantime, several sections of the Bas Saint-Laurent National Trail remain accessible and give hikers access to the park’s territory. In total, four sections (ranging from 10 to 16 kilometres) out of the 12 that make up the National Trail pass through the park. of endangered species and natural spaces. “My colleagues and I read Grey Owl’s novel Pilgrims of the Wild,” says Johanne Marchesseault, a member of the park’s conservation team. “He describes his travels along the Touladi River during the three years he spent living there between 1928 and 1931. His

Canada’s national parks. And even though he is now long gone, his role as ambassador of nature in the Bas Saint-Laurent region lives on. Sépaq is on the ground, working hard to build the infrastructure of the park. Its inauguration, first scheduled

for 2012, was delayed due to heavy rains last spring. In the meantime, several sections of the Bas Saint-Laurent National Trail remain accessible and give hikers access to the park’s territory. In total, four sections (ranging from 10 to 16 kilometres) out of the 12 that make up the National Trail pass through all or some of the park from north to south: - The Cascades Sutherland trail (9.4 km), which runs alongside the river of the same name all the way to its majestic waterfalls. Surely one of the most beautiful legs of the Bas Saint-Laurent’s National Trail. - The Montagne-à-Fourneau trail (9.6 km), a mountainous section that leads all the way to the lookout and has a panoramic view on Lake Temiscouata. - The Touladi River trail (5.8 km completely in the park), where the spirit of Grey Owl lurks. - And finally, the De la Grande Baie trail (14.3 km), which runs on private property before returning into the park via the southern sector of the Le Montagnais bay.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ PARK AREA: 176.5 km² ACCESS: The four trail sections are subject to the Sépaq park fare ($5.50). Throughout the course of the year, adjustments will be made to the trails. Given the fact that there is construction underway in the park, it is best to communicate with its administrative office for information about access to sections that could be temporarily closed for accessibility and safety reasons. LODGING: The two shelters located in the park (which belonged to the National Trail) will be moved and are therefore closed until the official opening in 2012. However, chalets in the Le Montagnais region are already operational, and many campsites will soon be open to visitors. INFORMATION: 418-855-5508 • sepaq.com/pq/tem

ARE YOU PLANNING TO GO SEA KAYAKING? Before Setting Out Think about your safety and that of your loved ones. Please be aware that both you and the provider from whom you rent your kayak must comply with Transport Canada’s boating safety regulations. Don’t hesitate to ask questions about the training of the guides, the use of safety equipment and the security and navigation rules. Wear a personal flotation device or lifejacket fitted to your size. You may want to have spare clothing in a watertight bag. Also, bring drinking water and snacks to help avoid fatigue and dehydration. Finally, consult the weather forecast in preparation for your excursion. Guided Excursions Before each guided excursion, make sure that there is an emergency plan in place and that the group leader clearly explains the safety measures. Be aware of the effects of hypothermia and cold-water shock in case of immersion. Maritime Traffic A sea kayak can be difficult to spot given its small size. Stay in a group to ensure you are clearly seen by other boats, particularly large vessels. For further information, please visit our website: www.boatingsafety.gc.ca

adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 13

ALTBERG WILDLIFE SANCTUARY NATURE RESERVE TORONTO

BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

No wonder Canada’s Freshwater Summit is here. The Altberg Wildlife Sanctuary is home to the largest mixed woodland and wetland reserve in the region, and there’s no better time than spring to watch the annual pilgrimage of migratory birds returning after a cold, harsh winter. Hike the warren of trails and be prepared for red-shouldered hawk, deer, moose and beaver sightings among the overgrown marshes. Around the breezy Kawartha Lakes, binoculars are a staple, and you’ll soon find yourself craning your neck skyward to watch the birds’ homecoming.

R&R Kinmount House Bed and Breakfast (from $105 • 1-800-511-0211 • kinmounthouse.com) feels like a big hug with its wraparound porch. There’s plenty of history, too: Kinmount’s founder, among other local notables, resided here. The quaint four-bedroom inn provides a complimentary (and ample) home-cooked breakfast, from farmhouse eggs to freshbaked bread. Adjacent to the 85-km Victoria Rail Trail, it’s ideal for hikers, horseback riders, cyclists and joggers. Overlooking Sturgeon Lake, the upscale Eganridge Inn and Spa (from $105 • 1-888-452 5111 • eganridge.com) offers elegantly styled rooms and cottages featuring whirlpool baths, king-size beds, and a few with fireplaces. Spa visits ($90 for a one-hour massage) and golf ($39 for 18 holes on weekends) are available for diversions.

EAT The Eganridge Inn and Spa’s pine-panelled dining room gives off an upscale Canadiana cottage ambience (mains from $25 • 14 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

1-888-530-9941 • eganridge.com). Chef Steve Moghini creates French fusion menus using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Try his Classic Mixed Grill with organic chicken, steak and chorizo sausage seasoned with Middle Eastern spices over tomato rice and vegetables. For a true family-style tavern experience, the proprietors of McKecks in Haliburton, about a 40-minute drive north from the reserve, have created a landmark known for lager and nightly entertainment. Upstairs you’ll find settler-themed decor, while the main space nods to local Maple Leafs legend Walt McKechnie, who ran the place until 2009 (705-457-3443 • mckecks.ca). Choose from finger foods like nacho platters and ribs, or try the locally harvested rainbow trout.

PLAY HIKING: The 1.5-km, multi-use Windy Ridge Conservation Area has a panoramic view from the area’s highest perch of the confluence of Pigeon River and Fleetwood Creek. Start with a gentle climb, then switch gears for an uphill hike to the lookout. From there, head downhill to the water’s edge (1-800-668-5722 • kawarthaconservation.com). BIRDING: Environmentalist Rudolph Altberg donated a 470-hectare chunk of land in 1983, creating the Altberg Wildlife Sanctuary Nature Reserve. Situated between granite barrens and limestone plains – and often called “The Land Between” – Ontario’s largest nature reserve boasts four marked trails, ideal for hikers (no dogs or bikes are permitted). The looped 1.25-km Beaver Meadow Trail is best for beginners. The 1.6-km Ridge and Valley Trail is good for woodpecker and hawk sightings, while the .5-km Blue Mesa Trail wanders through easy terrain – a good add-on for the Ridge and Valley Trail. Don’t be surprised by the abundance of growth, from fern varietals to yellow-spotted lilies to jack-in-the-pulpits.

Red-backed salamanders poke their heads from the branches, and there are occasional moose sightings (you’re sure to see their droppings). Keep your head craned for hermit thrushes and least flycatchers (705-772-9571 • kawarthafieldnaturalists.org/Altberg.php).

FORESTER’S FALLS OTTAWA

BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY

This whitewater region, located an hour’s drive southwest of Ottawa, is ideal for rafters and kayakers ready for highvelocity action. Class IV and V rapids offer an unbeatable adrenaline rush, and the higher-than-normal spring runoff means more spills and chills. Spring is also pesky mosquito and black fly season, but don’t let that detract from the natural wonders lurking among the hiking trails.

R&R In the old lumber town of Pembroke, host and proprietor Shirley Nugent of Grey Gables Manor Inn Bed and Breakfast (from $130 • 613-635-7011 • greygablesmanor.com) welcomes her guests to this posh mansion once owned by a lumber baron. The Tudor-style home is a step into the past but with all the modern amenities, like wireless high-speed Internet. Six bedrooms are each tastefully designed and named after a royal castle, from The Balmoral to The Kensington. We love the inn’s grand hallway with its impressive carved staircase and leaded glass windows. Near Barry’s Bay, the simple, family-run resort Fortune’s Madawaska Valley Inn (from $115 • 1-800-363-2758 • madawaskavalleyinn.com) is on six acres of sprawling bush country. Rooms are equipped with satellite TV and wireless Internet, and the six-person hot tub is perfect after a day spent whitewater rafting.

Spring brings fresh air and fresh ideas. After a cold (albeit active!) winter, set aside some time to reconnect with Mother Nature as she blossoms into summer – and choose to spend some quality time on your own or with a special someone. Here are two quick and easy destinations complete with custom game plans to restore your peace of mind and recharge your batteries. EAT

Fortune’s Madawaska Valley Inn serves locally harvested items as much as possible. Chef Warwick Fortune creates a menu incorporating inspiration from Canada, Europe and Australia – though he’s also known for homemade sausages (mains from $15). In Renfrew, Coco Jarrys is a cool roadside pub with open jam sessions (613-432-3310 • ottawavalleyguide.ca/cocojarrys.html). Relax in their Thirsty Parrot Lounge with an order of spicy jalapeño poppers, a simple grilled cheese or a 12-ounce steak from the grill.

PLAY RAFTING: OWL Rafting (1-800-461-7238 • owl-mkc.ca) is a great choice for challenging the river’s ancient Class V rapids. This eco-playground rocks with ample activities and on-site camping ($15 extra charge, bring your own tent). All trips start with the prerequisite safety drill and instructional paddling techniques, then you’re off for a natural obstacle course. On the high-adventure tour, the first rapid, called McCoy’s, is one of the biggest, and there are more dunks and dives from there. For a gentler experience, the family float trip ($75 for adults, $55 for children under 12) gives a good intro to the sport with Class III rapids. Dress to get damp (wetsuit overalls are an extra $10). HIKES: It is hard not to catch the turtle-nesting action from May through June around Bonnechere Provincial Park, so keep a lookout when hiking along the more than 10 trails. We recommend the 18-km Bonnechere Tour Trail, a mix of gravel and paved, that winds through lakes and rivers alongside Crown land (613-757-2103 • bonnecherepark.on.ca).

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The Week-Long

WARRIOR From sport-specific training to boot-camp style, vacations that focus on fitness are gaining in popularity. Here’s what you need to know to plan your next healthy holiday. BY STEPHANIA VARALLI

PICTURE YOUR DREAM VACATION. At least 41 percent of Canadians, according to a recent poll by Expedia, are currently thinking about a sandy beach. Or, if you are like me, you are more accustomed to spouting the line “I’m not really a resort person.” (Not that there’s anything wrong with that.) I have attempted seaside resorts in the past, and the results have been generally disastrous. Lying still on a beach was more like torture than relaxation, the allyou-can-eat buffet magically shrunk my jeans, and it is best we don’t discuss the so-fruity-you-can’t-taste-the-boozy drinks, with their alluring ornamental umbrellas and wee plastic monkeys. Rather than return home, yet again, with a tan and 10 pounds to lose, I jumped aboard a growing trend for Canadians: active travel. This broadly defined category includes just about any trip that involves physical activity, from camping to scuba diving. The niche that I have grown most attached to takes the idea to the extreme, with a holiday that is focused entirely on training. There are sport-specific options, such as cycling, running or swimming (or put them together for a triathlon camp), as well as more general offerings, each with their unique variety of activities, all geared toward making you fitter before your flight back home. Even if you are “not really a resort person,” it may sound strange to spend your holidays on a paid suffer-fest. The average Canadian earns 16 days of vacation per year. Why devote a good chunk of that precious time to rigorous physical 16 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

activity? The simple answer: Training on vacation is more enjoyable and more rewarding than training at home.

The Benefits of a Training Vacation

For most people, training has to be squeezed in between work, a social life and some necessary downtime. In an already full day, finding the time and motivation for exercise can be difficult. Now imagine if the only thing you had to do in a day was train. Wake up, get your workout done and then enjoy some well-earned relaxation. Without the other stresses, the training may still be a challenge, but it is less of a chore. The singular focus is not the only plus. Take that training session and put it against the backdrop of Spain, or Kenya, or wherever your travel daydreams take you. With options all over the globe, you can decide on the view that will inspire you to run farther or pedal faster. You can also select a location that offers a training experience you wouldn’t find at home. Ashley Higgins, owner of Andalucian Cycling Experience, has been running training camps and cycling holidays out of a small town in the south of Spain since 2005, taking guests on rides throughout the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. In his own words: “The terrain we ride in a training camp is quite hard compared to where most clients ride at home.” In my own estimation, there is no place in Canada east of the Rockies that can offer this many hills per square kilometre. On day two I was making my way up an hors catégorie climb: a sixteen-kilometre

slog so difficult it defies categorization and has earned the name The Beast. Throughout the week we managed more ups and downs than I ever thought possible, but every pedal stroke came with a breathtaking view, and it’s hard to complain when the sights are stunning and the sun is warm and ever-present – in February. Finding spring in the middle of winter is one more advantage of going abroad to train. Unless you’re an all-season athlete, keeping up your fitness level year-round can be a challenge. Fortunately, it’s always the season you want it to be somewhere on the globe. The key is selecting the region that can offer the weather you are looking for when you need it. And you don’t need to be an athlete in a specific sport to get the benefits. Tara Wood opened Wildfitness in 2001 and now offers courses in Kenya, Crete, Spain and the Isle of Wight. She believes that the ability to be “immersed in the pristine natural environment” is healing, and it’s just one of “the 360-degree aspects you need in order to get healthy.” A Wildfitness course involves everything from barefoot running to boxing, and also provides meals based on a specific diet. We were all working out more – and with far more intensity – than we would be on our own, and dining on a 100-percent healthy and delicious diet. Just as importantly, we were resting when necessary, escaping the stress of our regular life and learning from experts not only about how to move and eat, but also how to continue this lifestyle at home.

THE

WORLD AT YOUR

FEET... As intense as it may sound, the Wildfitness course – like many of the more broad-based training holidays – is well-suited for people of all fitness levels. “Everyone who comes on the course is very motivated, but people come for different reasons,” Tara points out. “Some have come to achieve results and are very focused on their performance, some are more keen to have fun and be playful. Some people are very confident about their fitness and enjoy being pushed and having some competition, other people are more keen to enjoy the session at their own pace and feel part of the team. Whatever the personality or attitude toward fitness, the course is designed so that everyone feels included and enjoys the sessions.” There is enough variety to keep you keen for the duration of the trip, and you do not need to be an expert in any one sport. If you do have a discipline that you enjoy, however, travel training is a great way to increase your skills. No matter what level you are starting at, you are almost guaranteed to see improvement, because the achievements of one day are quickly compounded by the next. As expected, the sport-specific camps do tend to attract participants with some degree of experience. Ashley notes that “most people on the Winter Training Camps are training for an event of some kind, from a local Sportive to an Ironman.” He quickly adds, though: “Some riders are more serious than others.”

How Fit Do You Need to Be?

Even “serious” athletes are not always at their fittest after an off-season slump. Most camps are equipped to cater to a broad range of abilities. At Andalucian Cycling Experience, there are short, medium and long options offered each day, enabling each rider to join a group they are comfortable

riding with. Even so, Ashley notes that “clients will generally enjoy their training camp more if they are starting from a good base level of fitness, and a high percentage of riders will actually do some training before they come.” General fitness camps can sometimes be more adaptable to less seasoned athletes, since no single skill is involved. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t expect to be pushed to your personal limit, though. “We get a wide range of people attending our courses, from those who have done very little exercise before to those training for marathons,” Tara notes. “The course is specifically designed to push each person at the pace that is suitable for them.” Here’s my advice: Review the itinerary of whatever training camp you are considering. If it isn’t well outlined, send an email to ensure you clearly understand what you are in for. You do not need to be a star athlete to make it through a training vacation, but it is always helpful to be aware of the expectations. And remember: While the exercises can be challenging, the rewards are worth it.

Photo by Beth Wald © Wolverine World Wide, Inc., official footwear licensee for Patagonia, Inc.

What Kind of Training Vacation Is Right for You?

What Can You Really Do in a Week?

After over 10 years of running Wildfitness courses, Tara can confidently boast about the results. “Everyone gets stronger and leaner – if they were not lean to start with – and posture improves, and they feel more energy. What our course is extremely good at is teaching people how to enjoy training, and how to push without injuring themselves.” Sport-specific training courses can have the same impact on your physical fitness, with the bonus of improvement in your selected skill. Ashley notes that most of his clients – 30 percent of whom are repeat customers – not only feel fitter at the end of the week, they are more confident climbing, less afraid of hills and more enthusiastic about road cycling in general. Let’s try this again: Picture your dream vacation. How fit will you be at the end of it?

Jump on the Training Vacation Trend These camps have been put to the test. Here’s what they offer: Andalucian Cycling Experience Winter/Spring Training Camps are one week long, and are offered from December through to the end of April. Self-catered accommodation is included in the €395 price tag (€355 if you have a group of four or more). Expect big hills and beautiful sights, with guides that support you every pedal stroke along the way. andaluciancyclingexperience.com Wildfitness Holidays range from three days to three and a half weeks, and are offered in Kenya, Crete, the Isle of Wight and Spain. Both your activities and diet are set, with plenty of downtime for recovery. Expect to learn skills and habits that you can apply well beyond your vacation time. wildfitness.com

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GOING BACK TO

GROS MORNE BY BRYEN DUNN

18 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

I FIRST SET FOOT ON NEWFOUNDLAND SOME 10 YEARS AGO, and I got the exact same thrill when arriving for my second, recent visit. It is natural beauty beyond belief. No matter which way you turn there is picture-perfect scenery, from the majestic forests to the expansive Atlantic Ocean. If you’re an outdoor enthusiast, this is one region of Canada that can be explored over and over again without ever repeating the same experience.

of my ride was veering upon a caribou that I shared the trail with for a short distance. I finished the loop in about an hour, feeling as if I had truly experienced nature (and glad that I had brought a change of clothes with me).

Gros Morne National Park is located on Newfoundland’s west coast, and is the second-largest national park in Atlantic Canada, covering 1,805 square kilometres. It not only includes the second-highest mountain peak in the province, but also some of the most challenging multi-day hiking trails in the country. Whether you’re cycling the coastal roadways or hiking the remote trail systems, pristine panoramic views appear around each corner. The area is a remnant of continental drift, where deep oceanic crust, mantle rock and distinctive flora combine for a stunning adventure. Add in glacier-formed fjords and crystal-clear lakes, and you’ve got the closest thing to paradise on earth.

Adventures on Wheels

Photos: © Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism

There are several villages within Gros Morne where residents live year-round – tiny hamlets that were there long before the area was designated a National Park back in 1973. As I drove around I often stopped to grab a bite or check out one of the handicraft shops. It’s a great way to meet the locals and gather stories from days past. There’s usually an assortment of accommodation options available as well, from camping to bed and breakfasts to hotels – a great base before setting off into the wilderness. And there is plenty of wilderness to be found: There are over 100 kilometres of hiking opportunities throughout the park, ranging from quick, one-hour jaunts along well-maintained pathways to multi-day backwoods trails for the experienced adventurer. Most of the biking is done along the paved mountainous roadways, with the exception of the Stuckless Pond trail, which was recently modified to allow mountain biking along with hiking. I picked up a rental from Cycle Solutions at the Visitor Centre and made my way over. The 10-kilometre single-track ride around the circumference of the pond led me up some challenging climbs through varied terrain, but it was well worth it. Leaving the main road there is about a kilometre of raised, wood-planked pathway – a bit treacherous when damp – but once past this, the marshy land and tree roots become the obstacle course. The highlight

One of the most memorable experiences to take home is the spotting of wildlife in its natural habitat, and it’s not uncommon to spot lynx, black bear, caribou, arctic hare, marten and moose from almost anywhere. The moose population is one of the highest concentrations in North America (so watch out while you’re driving). As well, there are over 200 species of birds, 700 species of plants and an ocean full of whales, which can often be viewed from the shorelines.

Getting There

Deer Lake is the closest airport, with frequent year-round scheduled service and increased summer service. There’s regular bus service that connects to the nearest park entrance some 32 kilometres away, or rental cars are available (and should be booked in advance). If driving from the mainland, there is year-round ferry service from Nova Scotia.

The abundance of wildlife is a good reminder that this is nature’s playground, operating under nature’s rules and regulations. Although the park is well-maintained and › › Continued on page 20 adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 19

well-staffed, there is a vast expanse of land to explore, and with it being along the Atlantic shores there’s always the unpredictability of changing weather patterns. I was witness to a bright sunny day becoming overcast, winds picking up, and eventually heavy rains pouring down – all within a matter of minutes.

A View from the Water

The one disadvantage about Gros Morne is the size, which often means there’s a great distance to cover to get between one area and the next. Some advance planning and a good map helped to alleviate the time I had to spend in a car. My first night I set up a tent along the shore of Bonne Bay, the point where I would set off kayaking the next day. Although there are designated campgrounds within the park, most are suited for RVs and families, which is not what I consider camping. I was recommended by one of the local tour guides to grab a piece of land up the way and set up my tent. She informed me that she and the other guides do that on their off days, and it was safe as long as I had all my gear, and perfectly legal. I gathered my backpack, trekked down along the waterside just beyond town, and found a flat spot to pitch the tent. I had just enough time to prepare dinner before watching the sun set, and bunked down listening to the chirps and whistles of the wilderness.

Gros Morne Adventures. They also offer guided tours, from a few hours to a full day, and even overnight excursions. Paddling within the sheltered harbour inlet of Norris Point, it was hard to imagine a ravaging ocean lay just the other side of the mountain. The Tablelands can be reached by road between the towns of Trout River and Woody Point. However, viewing it from the seat of my kayak was definitely a more memorable experience, especially as the rays of sunlight heightened the reddish-orange hues. After I arrived back on shore I walked over to the main pier and jumped on one of the sunset cruises that included a locally prepared meal, live music and a bar service featuring Newfie Screech. Once the boats depart the harbour they float beneath the towering cliffs of the fjords, passing by waterfalls, marine inlets, sea stacks and sandy beaches. Back on land I made my way along the seashore toward Western Brook Pond, where it seemed I could get in a fair bit of hiking the next day. It’s a bit like travelling into the past, to a time when Newfoundland was covered with Arctic plants and animals. I chose to do a couple of the shorter trails of various levels, from easy stroll to moderate workout. The less challenging options are perfect for visitors with mobility issues, and combined with a boat cruise along the freshwater fjord, carved out by glaciers during the most recent ice age – from 25,000 to about 10,000 years ago – the views are nothing short of spectacular.

I awoke the next morning and waded into the still waters Into the Wild below, which already carried a reflection of the surrounding The more strenuous trails are longer, have many steep mountain ranges. After a quick breakfast, I packed my gear Pub_1-3Carre-GTD2012-ANG_Layout 1 12-03-21 11:53 Page 1 overnight stays in the wild and should only sections, require and headed back into town to pick up my kayak rental from

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Quebec Permit Holder

READY TO PLAN YOUR OWN TRIP TO GROS MORNE? CHECK OUT THESE SITES FOR MORE INFORMATION: NEWFOUNDLAND/LABRADOR TOURISM – newfoundlandandlabradortourism.com PARKS CANADA – parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne GROS MORNE ADVENTURES grosmorneadventures.com SUGAR HILL INN – sugarhillinn.nf.ca OCEAN VIEW HOTEL – theoceanview.ca WESTERN BROOK FJORD - bontours.ca CYCLE SOLUTIONS – cyclesolutions.ca

be attempted by those with previous backpacking experience. There are two unmarked routes often referred to as the “map-and-compass” traverses, Long Range and North Rim, each providing the ultimate hiking challenges. You’ll need to carry all essentials, including food, gear, a topographical map and a compass. To make sure you’re fit for the task, each hiker must attend a mandatory briefing with a backcountry warden on the day prior to hiking. The trail fee includes this orientation as well as the rental of a VHF Telemetry Unit that aids in the location of potentially lost hikers. I inquired at the information centre as to what each might entail, should I choose such an adventure. I was told that the Long Range Traverse covers 35 kilometres and takes an average of four to five days to hike, whereas the North Rim Traverse covers 27 kilometres and takes an average of three days to complete. Each route begins at the same point, with a steep 600-metre, four-kilometre hike up the gorge. It takes approximately four to five hours to reach the top of the Long Range plateau, where the first primitive campsite is located, and typically the first overnight stop. From here the trails veer separately, with the Long Range ending at the Gros Morne Trail, and the North Rim following a thicker route of vegetation at the opposite end. I decided against either option (it’s always good to have a reason to come back). After a couple nights roughing it in the outdoors, I was ready to treat myself to a real bed and a home-cooked meal. Sugar Hill Inn in Norris Point had just what I needed – a taste of civilization within the wilderness, with excellent accommodations, exquisite cuisine and a generous bar selection. After dinner I went over to the Ocean View Hotel in Rocky Harbour, where they offer a nightly local showcase of music and comedy called Anchors Aweigh. There’s nothing quite like enjoying a Black Horse beer while listening to traditional Newfoundland jigs. Getting ready to leave the Park, I thought back to all I had done in three short days, from cycling, to kayaking, to hiking. I also had met many interesting people, and sampled some delicious local dishes. The great thing about Gros Morne is that there is something for everyone. Although those with limited time may choose to visit the top three visited attractions – the desert-like Tablelands, the fjord waters of Western Brook Pond and the hike up Gros Morne Mountain – whatever you see, you’re guaranteed to enjoy your experience, and you’ll want to head back for more.

› › Continued from page 19

(Manicouagan and Duplessis)

ÂŠPhotos: Ă&#x2030;. Marchand, N. Boisvert, M. Loiselle

A N E X H I L A R AT I N G J O U R N E Y O N T H E W H A L E R O U T E

For more information, visit

quebecmaritime.ca/cotenord

GEAR

Finally, FRESH

BY TRAVIS PERSAUD

AIR _ And It’s About Time

If you’re equipped for winter running and have been outside stomping through the snow for the past four months, you’re not as inclined to shout for joy. But for the majority of us, relegated to indoor tracks and gyms, springtime presents the first moment of the year we can lace up our shoes and head outdoors. With spring here, it’s time to get up to date with the gear you need. Here, we take a look at some of the top new road and trail running shoes for this season.

TRAIL

ROAD 890V2 This brand new neutral running shoe is built on the Natural PL1 last, which drops the heel height to bring the shoe closer to the ground. Cushioning and shock absorbency are not sacrificed, however, as the shoe uses REVlite foam and soft uppers, giving your feet all they need when pounding the ground. NEW BALANCE, 890v2 | $140 | newbalance.ca

LUNAR ECLIPSE+2 Nike’s latest runner wraps around your feet with a glove-like fit. The laces are attached to the midsole, so tightening or loosening customizes the shoe around the shape of your foot. A floating heel support clip ensures stability and the “Lunarlon” cushioning saves your knees from the unforgiving ground with its springy attributes. NIKE, Lunar Eclipse+2 | $170 | nike.ca

CASCADIA 7 The Cascadia line is one of Brooks’ most popular. The Cascadia 7 presents a perfect balance between ruggedness and runnability. Using their patented DNA midsole cushioning, this shoe provides the ideal comfort level no matter the level of intensity. And with a ballistic rock shield and toe protector, there’s no worry about damaging them through the toughest terrain. BROOKS, Cascadia 7 | $160 | brooksrunning.ca

ADIZERO RUSH Weighing in at 6.3 oz (w) and 7.5 oz (m) respectively, Adidas’ adizero Rush lets you know that they’re okay with less. Less weight and materials that get in the way of what you want to do: run, and run fast. The nylon mesh keeps your foot locked in and stable for speed. And Adidas’ “SprintWeb” promises enhanced breathability to keep you cool on the hot road. ADIDAS, Adizero Rush | $100 | adidas.ca

VELOCITY 2.0 Vasque takes the success of their first Velocity trail runner and updates it for the bold new version 2.0. It features a lower profile with a durable midsole, making it ideal for both running and light hiking. And airflow is taken care of with an airmesh upper for greater breathability. Plus Vasque adds daring new colours, including Chili Pepper and Lemon Chrome, for a stylish look on the trail. VASQUE, Velocity 2.0 | $120 | vasque.com

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TERRAFLY 303 AND 277 The Terrafly lineup gives runners a lightweight option (the number is the weight of the shoe in grams) to tackle a combination of ground conditions. It uses minimal cushioning to maintain a lighter body, but still has enough protection for your feet to traverse through rocky ground and road straights. INOV-8, Terrafly 303 and 277 | $120 | inov-8.com

MOVIES

Adventure flicks

Must-See Adventure

Movies BY FRÉDÉRIQUE SAUVÉE

THE CLASSICS

TOUCHING THE VOID (2003) MOUNTAINEERING Juggling between documentary and enactment of true facts, Kevin McDonald’s film brilliantly submerges the viewer into the world of mountaineering, where the line between life and death is narrow. The fascinating, based-on-true-facts film follows mountain climbers Joe Simpson and Simon Yates on their first ascent of the west face of the Siula Grande in the Andes in 1985. Their climb to the top takes a turn for the dramatic when Joe Simpson breaks his leg during a storm. In the fall, Joe finds himself hanging in mid-air, typically a surefire death sentence for both partners. After several minutes, Simon decides to cut the cord that ties him to Joe. The film, which is jam-packed with shudder-worthy scenes, is based on the testimonials of both men and the book by Joe Simpson. Since its 2003 release, the outdoor adventure community has praised this low-budget film for its up-close-and-personal, realistic feel – it’s a far cry from specialeffects-laden films like Vertical Limit! To this day, it is considered one of the greatest and most beautiful mountain adventure films. THE ENDLESS SUMMER (1966) SURFING A cult classic for all surfing lovers, this documentary depicts reality in a dream-like state. During the Woodstock days, two surf forerunners travel Australia and Africa on a quest for waves. We hang 10 with the best of them and are submerged in the hippie ambience thanks to the musical score (no crashingwaves sound bites due to the technological limitations of the era). It’s one of the first films to demonstrate that surfing isn’t just a sport, it’s a lifestyle. Bruce Brown produced a sequel to his The Endless Summer some 30 years later, but this time with a slightly larger budget. The fascination with waves remains intact, the heroes appear just as naïve, but this time we can hear them!

THE HOLLYWOOD PRODUCTIONS 127 HOURS (2010) The ultimate survival flick, 127 Hours takes the viewer on an incredible emotional roller coaster. First, the scenery (Utah’s canyons) takes our breath away. Then, we get the chills when the fall occurs and, finally, of course, we squirm and struggle to watch when the protagonist cuts off his arm. Based on the autobiography of Aron Ralston, an intrepid 27-year-old hiker, the film retraces the five days of agony spent with his arm trapped under a boulder. Danny Boyle (director of Trainspotting and Slumdog Millionaire) delivers a high-budget film riddled with stupefying, sometimes harrowing scenes. With 125 nominations including several Oscar and Golden Globe nods, 127 Hours took home 22 awards, many of them for James Franco’s incredible portrayal of Ralston. A great ode to courage and perseverance that makes you want to visit the parks of the western United States. But one thing is certain: Nobody will forget their knife! K2: THE ULTIMATE HIGH (1992) In the same lineage as blockbuster, testosterone-filled American productions like Cliffhanger, this high-wattage thriller stars two stubborn mountaineers tackling the famed K2, the second-highest mountain in the world. Released in 1991, K2: The Ultimate High was first a play that was adapted for the big screen with a profusion of special effects and dramatic scenes. The recipe works and results in a film that transports us into the dream of several mountaineers looking to conquer this dangerous mountain. Despite awe-inspiring visual effects, the film was originally ill-received by critics who mocked the poor storyline. Nonetheless, the film is highly entertaining and has fascinated an entire generation of mountaineers-in-training with high-altitude dreams.

THE ENDURANCE: SHACKLETON’S LEGENDARY ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION (2000) EXPEDITION Liam Neeson lends his voice to charismatic and legendary explorer Ernest Shackleton in this documentary retracing his perilous expedition to Antarctica in 1914. When his ship, The Endurance, gets trapped in the ice, he and his crew are forced into some terrifying conditions of white hell, making for one of the most memorable survival stories in the history of polar exploration. The film, directed by George Butler, is based on a bestselling book by Caroline Alexander. It presents rare photographs and videos shot at the time, intercut with re-enactments. It is a great production that brings to life with much realism Shackleton’s unshakable leadership qualities.

Canoeing, hiking, biking — or another cup of coffee?

New

Camping Gear BY SHELAGH MCNALLY

GO GOURMET ON THE TRAIL

You’ll have no more excuses for rehydrated dinners on the trail with the GSI Bugaboo Base Camper Cookset. This non-stick cookware made out of ultra-light quality aluminum is perfect for cooking in the great outdoors. A small set includes the 1.5- and 2-litre pots with lids, the medium set has 2- and 3-litre pots and the large set offers the 3- and 5-litre pots. All sizes include a frying pan, cutting board and locking gripper packaged in a durable mesh stuff sack. It doesn’t get more high-tech than this: Grooved bases on the pots and pans reduce slippage and prevent burning, and the transparent nylon lids have a heat-proof silicone rim with an integrated strainer. Pick up a copy of Backcountry Cooking Deck: 50 Recipes for Camp and Trail by Dorcas S. Miller for some inspiration. GSI, Bugaboo Base Camp | $54–$72 | gsioutdoors.com

FLEXIBLE HYDRATION

Have the flexibility of creating your own hydration system with the Nathan Fusion Series. This build-yourown belt lets you add as much or as little as you need. Start off with the limited-stretch Titanium Belt, add a few mesh pockets, a flask holster or a gel bandolier. There’s even a weather-resistant phone pocket. If you don’t want to be weighed down, try the Sprint Plus hand-held flasks. The strong and flexible adjustable hand strap eliminates the need to hold on tight, and alternative hand positions allow for maximum comfort. There’s also a zippered pocket for other essentials. NATHAN, Fusion Series | $12 per item for Fusion Series/$20 for Sprint Plus | nathansports.com

SUPPORT ON THE TRAIL

New for spring, the Vasque Talus UD hiking boots will keep your feet dry and comfortable on any trail. The waterproof nubuck leather has a padded nylon mesh collar and tongue to keep out trail debris, and the breathable membranes block rain while letting sweat out. The rubber outsoles give good traction over the slipperiest trail, while the footbed and midsoles are designed to absorb shock and provide cushioning. It adds up to a nice-looking hiking boot with outstanding performance. VASQUE, Talus UD | $150 | vasque.com

24 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

HAVE BABY, WILL HIKE

It’s all about comfort and ventilation with Osprey’s new Poco child carriers. The soft, supported seat adjusts up and down for optimal fit and safety for your baby. For you, there’s a printed scale on the torso that allows for quick length adjustments – from extra-small to large – and the hip belt can be easily resized with the pack on, for a perfect fit. Padded grab handles make for secure and balanced lifting, and the strong aluminum frame with injection-moulded hinges folds down for easy transport or storage. The best feature: a removable and washable drool pad. Available in Romper Red, Bouncing Blue and Koala Grey. OSPREY, Poco Line | $230–$340 | ospreypacks.com

BE STYLISH AND SWEAT-FREE

Tilley’s Airflo® Shirt for women or men is a quick throw-on after a run or hike. This multi-purpose, button-down shirt has moisture-wicking material that is not only stain- and wrinkle-resistant, it offers some ultraviolet protection. Two front chest pockets have discreet zippers, and the women’s style has a flattering front fit. Cram this shirt into your backpack and it will come out looking fresh. TILLEY, Airflo | $120 | tilley.com

SLEEK YET ROOMY

Mountain Equipment Co-op has replaced their popular Gemini and Apollo tents with a new Volt line. Their lightweight (2.9-kg), four-season, two-person TGV 2 tent is the sleekest in the mountaineering lineup. It has got a bit of extra length for tall people to comfortably recline, and the A-shaped front arch pole gives extra headroom. Plus, the U-shaped door offers maximum ventilation. The poles attach with clips for a lighter and faster set-up, and pegs are a mix of Easton Gold round and Y cross-section aluminum for maximum strength and holding. Mitt-friendly tensioners and internal guy line anchors are a nice feature as well. MEC, Volt | $309–$369 | mec.ca

ALL-IN-ONE KITCHEN

Poco Plus 1_3H EN Aventura.pdf

2/6/12

2:31 PM

If you’re cooking for a large group on the trail, you’ll want to check out the new Jetboil Sumo Group Cooking System. Weighing in at 435 g, the Sumo pairs the all-weather Sol burner with a 1.8-litre cooking cup. The integrated stove and pot provides consistent heat output down to the last BTU and will boil 24 litres of water per 230 g Jetpower canister. The cup has a drinkthrough lid with a pour spout and the container is insulated to keep food warm. A pot support and stabilizer tripod is included, along with a secure strap to hold onto to prevent spillage. The best feature: the push-button igniter. It’s compatible with other Jetboil accessories so you can still use your Jetboil coffee press! JETBOIL, Sumo | $124 | jetboil.com

CMY

adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 25

MINIMALIST RUNNING

FASHION (R)EVOLUTION? BY VÉRONIQUE CHAMPAGNE

About 25 percent of running shoes bought in the United States are minimalist sneakers, according to SportsOneSource and the Outdoor Industry Association. That’s a 100 percent increase compared to 2010’s sales. For a closer-to-home glance, Montreal boutique Endurance (which boasts the widest selection of minimalist shoes in the area) stocks 40 barefoot styles: double what was available in 2009. 26 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

Two years ago, the boutique was already

carrying minimalist kicks. In fact, they’ve been available for over 25 years. “We’re selling the same shoes, but we’re not selling them to the same clientele. At the beginning, minimalist styles were bought as a competition shoe by racers,” notes Pierre Léveillé, the store’s manager. Today, we’re in the middle of history’s second running boom, as the sport has been redefined as a participatory one and the number of recreational runners has exploded. And their choice of shoe is increasingly a barefoot style. Nonsensical? Not if you know the whole story. Prior to 1970, running was an elitist sport, practised only by hardcore athletes who were knowledgeable about the mechanics of a good stride and an effective training plain. These runners wore competitive-style shoes whose average weight was about 7 ounces and, had the barefoot running movement existed, would have been considered minimalist. With his marathon win in the 1972 Olympics, charismatic runner Frank

Anatomy of a Minimalist Shoe

Minimalism is a trend that aims to lighten and simplify shoes. For an extremist, the role of the shoe is to merely protect against exterior elements like temperature and sharp or otherwise uncomfortable surfaces. At the very least, to be considered minimalist, a shoe must: allow for conscious movement and sensations and allow the body to make adjustments (a close-to-the-ground shoe with minimal support); not impede the body’s natural stride, notably its rest on the ground and transfer of the centre of gravity;

let the foot move naturally to allow it to develop its structure and elasticity (a flexible shoe that places toes near the ground). Despite what some purists say, it can be useful to talk about minimalism as a characteristic and not necessarily a category: a shoe can be more or less minimalist than another. Progression can also occur in the choice of shoe.

Shorter inspired many to take up the sport, marking the first running boom. Many of those who started running were used to walking, thus placing the heel on the ground first. One foot after the next, without any support, these runners changed the face of running. While more than 76 percent of athletes landed on the ball of the foot (a technique that allows a more effective absorption of the impact) in 1964, 80 percent of runners went heel first in 1983. Injuries were therefore rampant: 79 percent of runners got hurt at some point during their season. As a reaction, manufacturers began producing cushioned styles to protect the body from the impact of running. Despite these efforts, injuries were still occurring. Christopher McDougall, a curious journalist and injured runner, went to the Tarahuma Indians, a Mexican tribe renowned for its long-distance runners, for answers. From this 2009 quest was born the book Born to Run, in which a stunning study revealed that the human species owes its evolutionary survival to longdistance running abilities. According to the findings of Dr. Daniel Lieberman, professor of human evolutionary biology at Harvard University, the body is built to run: the stride is natural, the foot is supple, muscular and has a healthy bone mass that is capable of sustaining the stress of running. But traditional shoes changed the stride and weakened the foot, increasing risk of injury.

be lightweight (weighing less than 10 ounces), have a heel-toe ratio of less than 13 mm and spacious toe box;

The author made running natural, the book became a bestseller and thus was born the second running boom. Many runners are encouraged by the discovery while others are inspired by the new promise of minimalist shoes and by the ad campaigns featuring splashy, liberating slogans that manufacturers are using to respond to the new demand.

Two running booms, two different currents

of thought: the former to protect the foot from the runner’s movement, the latter to protect the runner from the classic shoe’s characteristics. The common denominator: protection. It’s up to you to see if you need to protect your feet from shoes or from your technique.

Six hundred and fifty muscles and two hundred

bones participate in a stride. This complex movement is learned and perfected over time. The body adapts, so long as its capacity to do so is respected. For a foot that’s accustomed to being cushioned, a few minutes of unprotected pavement pounding in a minimalist shoe can have severe consequences, like a stress fracture. Tempted to try barefoot running? Think gradual progression. Migrate toward a minimalist shoe a few minutes at a time – it can take several months, but patience and persistence are the words of order.

adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 27

MIND & BODY

THE GLUTEN-FREE DIET

BY TRAVIS PERSAUD

The news paralyzed her. Months previous, Karen Dyck was training two hours a day for a triathlon – 1,500-metre swim, 40-kilometre bike ride, 10-kilometre run – alongside her weekly Ultimate Frisbee game and normal active day-to-day lifestyle.

Then, at just 30 years old, she was told she has a disease. Not something that can be cured with medication, like a parasite (which she thought was the issue after returning from a trek in Africa). In fact, her doctor put her on anti-parasite medication, and it only made the diarrhea, violent stomach pains and weight loss worse. The issue wasn’t something that modern medicine could wipe away. The problem was gluten. “My initial reaction was of disbelief, fear and anger,” she remembers. “I had real trouble reconciling the fact that I had a disease today that I didn’t have yesterday. I was terrified I would have to live the rest of my life with a painful stomach that would stop me from living the active life that is such an organic part of me.” Dyck isn’t alone. Health Canada estimates 300,000 Canadians have celiac disease – an autoimmune disease triggered by gluten that damages the lining of the small intestine and reduces absorption of minerals and vitamins including calcium, iron and vitamins A, D, E and K. And the number is growing. How do you know if you have celiac disease? Well, some of the common symptoms are gas, bloating, fatty stools, chronic diarrhea, weight loss and fatigue. Dr. Kate Whimster, a licensed naturopathic doctor based in Toronto (wavelengthwellness.com), says a great way to determine if you have celiac disease is to start an elimination diet. “Take out the common foods that irritate, gluten being one of them,” she says. “Eliminate them 28 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

for at least four weeks and see if your symptoms improve.” If they do, then begin to add foods one at a time to narrow the symptoms to a specific food. “That’s a cheap way to find out,” Whimster says. “If you try to treat digestive concerns without dealing with your diet, you’re unlikely to see a lot of positive results; supplements can only do so much.” Whimster says the medical community is still learning about celiac and its cause. However, some studies are beginning to explain potential reasons why celiac is such a growing concern. “In North America, grains have a higher gluten concentration compared to grains in Europe, for example,” she explains. “And in our society a lot of people have been on antibiotics. They wipe out the good bacteria in your gut, making you more vulnerable to damage. The lining of your intestine is really important because it protects your body from anything that’s foreign; if you’re taking antibiotics you’re essentially damaging that lining.” While research is ongoing, there is a way to resolve your symptoms – switch to a gluten-free diet. Unfortunately, that may not be simple if you’ve been recently diagnosed with celiac and haven’t been exposed to the options that exist, as Dyck found out. “I’m of German descent, so bread was a big part of my daily food intake,” she says. “But the morning after I found out I had celiac, I threw out everything in my kitchen... and I really felt lost.” Of course she had to avoid all of the gluten-containing grains

– barley, rye, wheat, spelt and kamut. Even oats, which do not have gluten, are farmed, transported, manufactured and packaged by companies that make other gluten-containing grains, so they often reach the table contaminated, unless you look specifically for gluten-free oats that are handled away from other grains. And there are many other hidden sources of gluten that aren’t easily detectable. Sauces are one of the biggest culprits. They often use gluten-laced ingredients such as dextrin or modified food starch to act as a thickener. Dr. Whimster also says to be careful buying bulk items such as roasted almonds and seeds, because they’re often covered in wheat starch to help them brown nicely (but of course you always buy them raw and roast them yourself!). As well, restaurants may use wheat on steak to help bring out the grill lines, in salad dressings and in ground beef to help make it go further. Her advice when eating out? “Unless it says glutenfree, you should ask.” Because of this, Dyck spent considerable time researching flours she had never heard of before, began using more raw foods and eventually learned how to create healthy and delicious gluten-free dishes – including variations of the bread she so missed (although “it isn’t at all like the bread I remember from my childhood”). She’s also ventured into the world of cultural foods that are naturally gluten-free, such as Indian, Thai and Vietnamese dishes. But what about staying active? Dr. Whimster says that if you have celiac or gluten sensitivity, switching to a gluten-free diet

will enhance all levels of performance. “You will eliminate something that is an irritant and stress on your body,” she says. “You will start to feel much better and your body will work better. And it will make a huge difference in athletic performance, from stamina to energy.” Dyck agrees. She started training for a 70.3 Ironman a year after she was diagnosed with celiac disease. While it was tough to prepare quick gluten-free meals, she was able to increase her training load without noticing a lack of energy or health. She was eating so clean, in fact, that she had to be conscious of adding salt into her food. “I had muscle cramps during the hottest days of my training,” she remembers. “I no longer ate a lot of processed foods, so I had to be intentional about adding salt to my diet. Once I did, the cramps went away overnight.” Today, at 32, Dyck is training two to three hours a day for another 70.3 Ironman. While there are still many unanswered questions, put away any misconceptions and know that you can continue your active lifestyle with celiac disease – likely better than before, with enough energy to complete an Ironman race.

Celiac disease vs. gluten sensitivity

Contrary to what some may think, gluten sensitivity is not the same as celiac disease. The Canadian Celiac Association dubs the condition “non-celiac gluten sensitivity.” A person with gluten sensitivity will have symptoms such as stomach pains and headaches, but they don’t suffer from the intestinal damage that celiac disease causes.

WHERE TO EAT?

CRAVINGS It’s not easy to drop favourite foods such as bread, cookies and pancakes. Well, there are a growing number of gluten-free shops and restaurants to help with your cravings!

TORONTO

MOLLY B’S GLUTEN-FREE KITCHEN Find everything from bagels to pizza dough here. They also have a lineup of mixes, so you don’t have to miss out on pancakes, crepes and cakes. mollybglutenfree.com KENSINGTON CORNERSTONE RESTAURANT A vegetarian- and celiac-friendly restaurant right in the heart of, yup, you guessed it, Kensington Market. Main entrées average $16. kensingtoncornerstone.com SNOWMAN BREWING CO. Gluten-free beers exist – thank goodness! – but Snowman Brewing is a new microbrewery in Toronto that exclusively produces gluten-free beer. snowmanbrewing.com

OTTAWA

DOLCI A gluten-free bakery that specializes in gourmet cookies and custom cakes that are so good, you’ll want to go there even if you don’t have celiac disease! dolcibakeshop.com CAPRESE RISTORANTE ITALIANO It’s tough to create gluten-free Italian food, but Caprese is up to the challenge, serving everything from penne primavera to cannelloni. Main entrées average $20. caprese-glutenfree.com RAINBOW FOODS While not exclusively gluten-free, Rainbow Foods is a natural food store that provides a wide variety of products for people with celiac in the Nation’s Capital. rainbowfoods.net

MONTREAL

PATSYPIE Based just outside of Montreal, Patsypie creates incredible cookie, brownie, muffin and biscotti mixes available all across town. patsypie.com LOLA ROSA This vegetarian bistro doesn’t cater to the gluten-free segment entirely, but it does have a wide range of GF dishes to satisfy your wants and needs. And they deliver! Main entrées average $10. lola-rosa.ca RAWSOME Looking for a gluten-free, wheat-free, dairy-free, soy-free, egg-free, cholesterol-free dessert? Well, Rawsome has all of your cake needs met! rawsome.ca adventuramag.ca SPRING 2012 29

TRIM

LAST CALL

LIVE

CYAN GUIDELINES DO NOT PRINT ALL ART IS FPO

TERRA NOVA NATIONAL PARK

“In outdoor photography, getting a good shot is often about “being there and f/8.” But sometimes, no matter how great you visualize your picture could be, things simply do not happen. This could have been the case when, after a long rainy day, we went up Newman Sound in Terra Nova National Park to paddle into the Dungeon, a giant crack splitting the cliffs of Canada’s easternmost park. Fortunately, the unexpected can happen, too. The rainwater falling down created a mist and, with the sun at the right angle, I managed to capture this rainbow before the sun vanished behind the rock.“ – Patrice Halley, photographer The Tools: Nikon D700, 70–200mm, ISO 400, f/5.6, 1/640 second, Singh-Ray warming polarizer to enhance the rainbow’s colour spectrum. 30 SPRING 2012 adventuramag.ca

* ÂŠ 2012, Trademark of Kashi Company used under licence.

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