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Whether it is mountain ice or frozen waterfalls, ice climbing around Chamonix is superb. The sound of your axes bedding into the ice, and the beauty of the mountains in winter is hard to beat. These long weekends are great actioned packed breaks, with 3 days ice climbing, then returning to our cosy chalet in the evenings for some well-earned rest. Local venues include the Argentiere basin, Chatelard, Trient and of course the Mont Blanc massif. The world class venues of Kandersteg (Switzerland) and Cogne (Italy) are also within easy reach. We focus our attention on climbing at the excellent venues close to Chamonix to maximise the climbing time, but also travel to Cogne in Italy and Kandersteg if the conditions dictate. Our courses are run on a high ratio, with only 2 climbers per guide. We’re also available for custom guiding throughout the winter. The best ratio is 1:1 or 1:2.
DREAM-GUIDES.COM INFO@DREAM-GUIDES.COM . +44 (0) 845 564 52 19
This course is suitable for novices and experts alike, as we have a huge number of routes to choose from, at all levels of difficulty. Equally, as we run these weeks on a 1:2 guide to climber ratio, we can make sure climbers are of a similar standard and have similar objectives. So whether you want to climb hard routes, learn to lead or this is your first introduction to the world of ice climbing this is a great weekend. ABILITY LEVEL: ALL- This is appropriate for all levels of ability FITNESS LEVEL: 1 - Good cardiovascular fitness and upper-body strength are very helpful, but not crucial. Frozen waterfalls are steep, and approaches can be several hours in deep snow.
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DATES: Late December until the end of February is best for frozen waterfalls, but the mountain ice season continues throughout the spring. If you are a group of two or more people we can put together a bespoke package. MEET: We meet up on Thursday evening to prepare for the weekend of ice climbing action, finishing on Sunday ICE CLIMBING WEEKEND-SAMPLE ITINERARY Our ice climbing weekend includes three days ice climbing on frozen waterfalls around Chamonix at venues such as the Argentiere basin, Trient, Chatelard and if conditions dictate, in the high mountains of the Mont Blanc massif. Likewise, we often spend a day ice climbing in Cogne (1.5hrs drive). This combination really provides some of the best ice climbing around! The itinerary is subject to change, depending on the conditions, and what you’d like to do. We are very flexible! THURSDAY: Arrive and meet in Chamonix in the evening FRIDAY: Ice climbing - Argentiere basin SATURDAY: Ice climbing- Chatelard SUNDAY: Ice climbing- Trient SUNDAY EVENING: Depart
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on a plan and schedule to help you achieve your goals. Training does not work overnight! The fittest athletes train as part of their lifestyles and have been doing it for years. Consider training for a good couple of months before coming out to the Alps. Good fitness will make ice climbing more fun and you’ll get more out of your weekend! Although we will tailor the course to your ability, we definitely recommend getting as fit as possible before you start. The process of training for your goal will help you focus on your goal and having a goal will help you focus on your training. So all in all training is good! Ice climbing is all about being able to exercise at a moderate intensity for many hours, with bursts of strength and your training should reflect this. Training to mimic the real thing as closely as possible prepares your body as well as your mind. However not everyone has the opportunity to do this and so alternatives such as jogging, cycling and gym workouts are good. The focus should be on training Cardiovascular Endurance for long days in the mountains, and upper body strength for climbing. For cardio cycling, running, rowing machines are much better than weight training. Try and exercise for up to a couple of hours at a time, 4 times a week. For climbing, core stability, flexibility and balance are as important as strong arms and shoulders. Don’t just lift weights, try yoga, swimming and pilates too. Remember to build up your workouts over time. If you are not used to exercising much, your muscles and joints need time to build up to avoid injury. Try and choose an activity that you enjoy and keep a note of what you do and your times, this really helps with keeping the motivation up. If you are not used to training then your local gym will be able to advise you
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Chamonix is at an altitude of 1100m and it is rare that one would suffer from altitude sickness at such a level. However, the lifts in the Chamonix valley take you up to an altitude of 3842m which can at times have an effect on how you feel. As you climb higher the air gets thinner and so there is less oxygen in each breath we take. The higher we go the less oxygen there is. This makes exercising much harder work than at sea level, so we have to slow down to help compensate. Because we have slowed down, we may feel colder. Because there is less oxygen in the air as we get higher, this can lead to ‘altitude sickness’ or Acute Mountain Sickness which may include headache, nausea, weakness, fatigue, dizziness, and can develop into a very serious and even fatal (in extreme cases) problem. In reality on an ice climbing weekend, it’s unlikely you will have any lasting effects from altitude – however, it’s something to be aware of, and let your guide know if you experience any problems. INSURANCE We strongly recommend getting specialist travel insurance that covers cancellation, medical and mountain rescue. Make sure that it covers glaciated mountaineering and climbing. We recommend the Dogtag (www.dogtag.co.uk) - they have comprehensive policies and a good reputation.
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16. Water bottle - not platypus type - they freeze and leak. 17. 3 sets socks and thermal tops 18. Rucksack (25 to 30 litre) 19. Personal first aid - Blister kit and ibuprofen. Unfortunately we can’t recommend a specific brand and model for each item on the kit list, as what is available is constantly changing and, of course, different people are different shapes and sizes with different budgets! However, in general we use and endorse Mountain Hardware products because in our experience they are excellent. In short, January and February are often cold in the Alps and so you will need good winter clothing, including full Gore-Tex, hat, warm gloves and warm layers. It is also important to have appropriate boots that are warm & comfortable and stiff enough to take a climbing crampon. We provide group climbing kit (ropes, ice screws, and quick draws) and personal technical gear such as harness, crampons, ice axes, boots and helmet can be rented in Chamonix if needed.
20. Head torch (you never know!) Remember kit should be lightweight but functional - you have to carry it! We can help with equipment rental in Chamonix.
1. Warm and rigid mountain boots that will take ice climbing crampons. 2. Ice climbing crampons. 3. 2 x technical ice climbing axes. 4. Harness 5. Helmet 6. Gortex clothing (trousers & jacket) 7. Warm under layer (thermals or leggings) 8. Warm layers (base layer, thin fleece, and thick fleece) 9. Down / primaloft jacket (optional but useful – in rucksack – may be good for belaying in cold) 10. Hat 11. Warm gloves 12. Spare gloves (optional but useful) 13. Thin inner gloves / liners 14. Sunglasses 15. Sun cream - lip salve
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Rooms are normally on a twin share basis. Have a look here for more details and photos: http://www. adventurebase.com/sun/accommodation/slider
RATIO: 1:2 guide: client LEVEL: All abilities FULL COURSE PRICE INCLUDES: Guiding, guides expenses, twin share chalet accommodation in central Chamonix on a B&B and packed lunch basis, in resort transport (one trip to Cogne if needed). FULL COURSE PRICE DOES NOT INCLUDE: Insurance, travel to and from Chamonix, ski lifts, equipment rental, drinks, snacks, evening meals in Chamonix (it’s nice to explore the town!) COURSE ONLY INCLUDES: Guiding, guides expenses. To find out more about our course, availability, or to ask any questions, please get in touch with us through the website www.dreamguides.com or by phone on +33 (0)645 139 406 GETTING TO CHAMONIX: Once you have booked with us and bought specialist skiing/climbing travel and cancellation insurance (dogtag), it is best to book flights and airport transfers well in advance of your departure. Booking a place on a minibus airport transfer service is by far the best way to get from Geneva airport to Chamonix (it takes about an hour or so, is cost effective and is a door to door service). If you have booked Full Course, we can book your airport transfers at a competitive rate – just email us with your flight details. ACCOMMODATION When staying in Chamonix, we stay in one of our comfortable Adventure Base Chalets (www. adventurebase.com), literally 6 minutes’ walk from the town centre’s restaurants and bars. Breakfast and packed lunch are included leaving the evenings free for you to explore the delights of Chamonix.
PRIVATE GUIDING If the course dates don’t suit you or if you fancy something a bit different or further afield let us know! OTHER INFORMATION www.chamonix.net is a good source of information about the town, the restaurants and the bars. They also have listings of doctors, dentists and other medical practitioners. There are lots of cash points in Chamonix and Maestro/Visa/MasterCard are all readily accepted. Look forward to seeing you soon!