issue4 by adventure magazine

AFRICA’S ONLY ADVENTURE

Adventure Magazine

Tech - Gear -

DVENTURE & OVERLAND E-ZINE

News - Reviews

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Crew & Contributors Editor-In-Chief Stephen de Vries Copywright Editor Kirsten Sheldon Contributors Wilddog Adventure Riding Photography & Design Kirsten Sheldon Stephen de Vries Stitchedkitten Photography www.stitchedkitten.co.za Web Hosting Redhammer www.redhammer.co.za Contact 082 5888383 022 461 2526 Advertising Enquiries info@adventuremagazine.co.za

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Contents GS911 Credits Gear Ph oto of th e Month Cederb erg Adventure Bike Ch allenge Feature - Pan South African Motogear.co.za Feature - Optimus Prime Ride Report - Lesoth o a ph oto story Trailersonline.co.za Tech - Ch ain Maintenance Farkling your Transalp 700 Tulieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Adventures Adventure Magazine

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Gear Shift XC Jacket Full Ce Armour Removable Sleeves Hydration Pack Ready www.shiftracing.co.za

Shift Stealth Gloves

Short cuff-style leather and textile glove. Direct inject knuckle guards. Lightweight, flexible materials with vent panels for added airflow. Leather palm with reinforced padding. Additional palm heel reinforcement. Pre-curved Lycra finger sidewalls. Hook and loop wrist closure. Adventure Magazine

8 Click me to feature your product here.

PodMx Knee Braces Thermo Plastic Fully Customized for fit Improved comfort and airflow Self tracking patella guard The Best in Knee protection www.podmx.co.za

Uvex Carbon Enduro

Anti allergic, removable and washable COOL MAX inner lining Removable cheek padding Windcuff Can be used with or without visor Covers for visor mechanics included Quick-release visor lock Helmet bag Recommended for spectacle wearers www.motogear.co.za Adventure Magazine

Photo of the Month Submitted by Mark Hardy, KZN, South Africa.

Submit you pictures to info@adventuremagazine.co.za

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Pan South Africa Honda Deauville NT700

Honda South Africa recently introduced their mid package tourer. Call it something for the people who want something they can do distance on, but canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really afford a Goldwing or find themselves too intimidated by the Pan European ST1300. Adventure Magazine

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13 The Honda NT700, or Deauville as it’s called, is actually a very nice little package. 20 litres of fuel, 700 (680cc) V-twin engine and built in panniers? What more could the traveller on a budget ask for? Swinging your leg over the NT you immediately notice the facia – okay, who does not? Fuel gauge, speedo, tacho and temperature gauge, all analogue. Strange that they didn’t opt for the digital speedo/analogue tacho option as found on the brother Transalp. After all, they do share engines? That’s about all they share. The NT features a shaft drive. Yes, chain maintenance is a thing of the past. 120/17 front and a narrow 150/17 rear provides rather good grip for a porky 237kg’er. I must say I was shocked to find out the actual weight. The NT carries its weight high up but I never felt out of control, with it changing direction very quickly and easily. So now we have a prefect touring bike for the masses. Height adjustable front screen, built in panniers come standard. They are so narrow you hardly notice that they are there. Tucked in from the bars, if you can fit the Adventure

bars through, the back end will follow. Anyways, that’s what I believed and I didn’t get into trouble. Of course then there, is the Honda HISS security system that will protect you from potential thieves. Just don’t lose or damage your keys, it will be costly. Cruising seems to be what this little mid-sizer is about. Country lanes, 120km/h for hours… fuel consumption is around the 5l/100km so a tank should give you in the region of 350-400km. The standard ABS brakes work wonderfully. If it’s one thing that stands out, it’s the brakes. The 47kw engine is not the most powerful, but who’s racing when you are out and about on your way to your next destination? I would have hoped for a 6 speed transmission as an overdrive option to keep the Rpm’s lower on the freeway though. 120kph is around 5000rpm, with the limiter being reached at just over 8000Rpm. The 47kw gets you moving on the freeway and you should be able to attain prosecutable speeds with this mid-sizer. You never really seem to feel how fast you are going. But it Magazine

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15 really eats up the road. The standard exhaust system is extremely quiet. If it was not for the slight vibration through the bars at low speed, I would have thought that the engine was off. There arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many road tourers in this segment. If you need something to replace your older Honda CX500 or Silverwing, go have a look at the Deauville. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a nice little package with good value for money.

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Optimus Prim Adventure Magazine

me Adventure Magazine

21 The GS Adventure has been around now for a while. Back in the day, when there were adventurers riding around on R80 Kalahariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, little did they know that in a short span of time, BMW would break out with a master piece known to most travellers as the GS1200 Adventure.

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22 The 1200 boxer twin’s low stress engine makes it ideal for long distance touring, the way the motorcycles ergonomic just inspires the rider to go for miles is great. It’s a machine you ride for the whole day and feel like you could ride for another, straight away. The ESA function that was introduced in 2008 is still with us and what an awesome system it is. Just doddle with the left thumb button and ‘voila’, you can choose the perfect damping and pre-load settings for your trip. It’s perfect to compensate for a fully loaded bike. The settings need to be adjusted while standing still and in neutral, although the rider can choose between the “comfort, normal and sport damping levels while moving. The system works really well and it will only be a short while before the other manufacturers catch on. The grip heaters work really well, with nothing more needed than the 1st stage if you are riding with thin gloves. The huge 33l tank will take you forever if you abide by local traffic regulations. Adventure Magazine

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24 Why would you want to be in a hurry anyhow?

don to Cape Town on a couple of GS Adventures.

The rev limit has been raised and up to 8000rpm, making the boxer spread its legs slightly more. With around 105hp on tap, there is always enough power available. The transmission, like most BMW’s, is super smooth with the clutch feather light, sometimes feeling that more than one finger is an overkill. Make no mistake; the GS Adventure is big and heavy, but also immensely capable. It’s not a dirt bike and it does not pretend to be one. There is no posing here; this bike is meant for some serious distance in some of the worst terrain available. It’s not uncommon to read about guys travelling from Lon-

There is also a nearly endless optional extra’s list: ABS; heated grips; tire pressure monitors; traction control and some other little things like headlights and so on. There is a big range of open class adventure bikes available. The BMW is in a class of its own and although that does not mean it’s the best bike available, it does everything well. Well, everything we could throw at it, at least. Go test ride one, it might just change your opinion on long distance riding.

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Lesotho a photo story.

Ever since my 1st small trip through Lesotho in Dec 2006 I was captivated by this Mountain Kingdom. It’s hard to believe that a place like this exists within South Africa. It’s like something out of Lord Of The Rings, mystical and ancient. Undeveloped. So, after 2 years of looking forward, a year of planning and a week of preparation I was on my way to a 2nd and all together more intimate visit. All journeys have to start somewhere and mine would already start in Cape Town. I don’t believe in rushing to my destination and rather make the whole trip the destination.

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26 Day 1 Cape Town to Baviaanskloof (636km)

It’s 2 am and I’m tired of rolling around in bed in anticipation of the trip, I might just as well get started. By 3h30 the bike is packed, I’m geared up, geyser switched off and rubbish taken out. With the push of a button my companion for the next 8 days barks into life. Riding down a surprisingly busy Buitengracht Street and on to a dark N1 my thumper seems eager to eat some road. I make my 1st stop on the Du Toits Kloof Pass to admire and take a picture of the lights of Paarl. Foolishly I half handily balance my camera on top of my backpack on top of a roadside concrete table and while I pose it falls to the ground with a thud. Luckily it’s still in tact and I got the picture.

A quick stop by the roadside garage in Worcester for some fuel and I’m off again. Now I can go almost 400km before I run out! At Touws River I stop to rest and get something to eat. I’m dressed warm because experience taught me it get’s very cold on the other side of the mountain coming from Cape Town. Riding so early in the morning normally I’m frozen by the time I hit Touws River. For breakfast two meat pies from the

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27 24 hour kiosk will have to do.

Just outside of Touws River the sight of a nasty accident, a minibus taxi lost control and rolled off the road sending it’s 20 odd passengers flying into the bushes, reminds me how fragile our bodies really are. I don’t want to stop, I don’t think anyone survived. I will be extra careful on the trip. About 20 km down the N1 from Touws River I hook a right and after crossing the Trans Karoo train tracks I’m on my 1st gravel of the trip. The road winds through farmland and beautiful rocky outcrops. A stunning little road, smooth surface. Here and there I cross cattle grids and small dry riverbeds, no bridges, and even stops once to open a gate. This road basically runs parallel with the N1 just 10 or

so km’s South. I can’t believe how much more rewarding the ride and scenery is.

Just after passing through the Rooinek Pass I decide to take a little detour to see a place called Rouxpos. Stumbling upon a small hidden settlement I stop to ask accommodation information for a future stay-over. A gentleman called Mziwoxolo Mfekrto bought some land there and built a couple of self catering wooden houses on the slope of the scenic mountain that dominates his land. I was a bit short on time and as I indicated I had to get going his wife waved me back. Mr Mziwoxolo explained it is African custom to give a guest a gift upon his departure and with that Mrs Mfekrto gave me a bottle

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of their best wine. Goodness, my surprise was only outlived by my gratitude. Nice to meet such pleasant people.

The Seweweekspoort Pass delivered all it promised and before long I was in Calitzdorp. It’s midday and while refuelling I ask the petrol attendant where the best restaurant in town is. As he points up the street he explains I must go where the orange bikes are parked. KTM’s mark the spot I had lunch.

The original plan was to meet up with a friend living in George. He couldn’t join me for the whole trip but I still invited him to ride with through to Knysna and camp for the night in the Prince Alfred Pass, ride the next day to Uniondale where our paths would part again.

After numerous failed attempts to make contact over the last week leaving unanswered messages I realized we won’t be meeting up… Time to re-think my route. I’ve been in the Prince Alfred Pass before, even camped there once on my way to The Hell. I have not been in the BaviaanAdventure Magazine

29 skloof before though. As I wait for my lunch to come I undress layers of warm sweaty clothes because by now it’s really bloody hellish hot! Studying the map I plot a new route. The only problem is that I have no idea where I would get accommodation for the night if I head towards the Baviaanskloof.

country on a small gravel road that rises and dips as it curves along a river passing places like Daskop and Buffelsdrif. Once again the heat get the better of me and I make a stop under some trees nearby a farmhouse.

After lunch I head for the information centre and there a most friendly kind lady called Erina sorts me out with information to a variety of accommodation near and in Baviaanskloof for the night. As a sign of my gratitude I leave the bottle of wine. Braving the midday heat I make for Oudtshoorn and once there nearly bring a stop to my precious trip by running a red light. I have an old habit of looking around and daydreaming on the bike and not always paying attention to where I’m going. I realise what’s happening only when I see cars heading towards me from the side and come to a screeching halt! Very embarrassing. Luckily I live to screech another day.

While resting some kids rock up on their bicycles. They probably saw me stop and came to have a closer look. I break the silence and soon after they bubble with questions about me and the bike. Pleasant bunch. I can’t help to wonder how they pass their South of Oudtshoorn I cross time in this desolate place but they Adventure Magazine

30 assure me that the river and rocky outcrops make for excellent playgrounds. They remind me of myself and my friends on the farm during the good old days. I pass Uniondale without stopping for petrol. Just a couple of km’s down the N9 another small dirt road will take me to the Baviaanskloof. This road has a good surface and at speed playfully offers up a couple of long gentle bumps to lift the bike off the surface. I am in good spirit but have to stop again because the sun is cooking me alive. Where the road cross a dry riverbed I find shelter under some bushes. This time there is not a soul around and I take off nearly all my clothes… Maintenance to the final drive chain keeps me busy till I have to get going again. The Baviaanskloof officially starts with the Nuwekloof Pass and while navigating what must be the last 15km’s of the day stomach cramps sets in. There is only one solution. Hastily I search for a sheltered inlet into the gorge side, stop, out comes the toilet paper I always carry and within minutes Vesuvius is peaceful once more.

Without further incident I find my accommodation for the night. The Makadaat Grotte is my choice. Unfortunately the actual Cave units (rooms built into caves) are unavailable but the Aartappelkamer (Potato Room, used to store potatoes years ago) on the farmyard looks just as promising. After unloading my trusty steed I potter around the farm and eventually retire to my Aartappelkamer for the night. For an extra R50 the farmers wife struck me a dinner deal. Her family made an early Christmas gathering this year and once they sit down for their meal she will dish for me a plate of what is on offer. I’m so tired that by the time the food arrive I’m fast asleep. A full spread of cold meat, salads and pudding it was worth waiting for though. Dankie Tannie.

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32 Day 2 Baviaanskloof to Barkly East (696km) Waking to the early morning sounds of birds, sheep and a cockerel I realise I’m finally on the trip I’ve so looked forward to. The sun is not visible yet but once your eyes gets used to the low light a crisp fresh world unveils. Breakfast consists of what was left from last night.

As I sit down to eat a very friendly and somewhat intrusive cat makes it’s appearance. I love cats, so much so that there is no love left for dogs. I will share my food but since I need the nutrition my guest will have to do with the fatty scraps.

a early morning stroll summons me. I’d like to ask a few questions, meet the man who works this land and running out I leave the plate of food on the table.

Oom Basie explains to me that Through the open door the sight this valley and the neighbouring of the farmer, Oom Basie, taking ones were once used intensively to grow vegetable seeds. Adventure Magazine

33 The stuff that you’d buy in packets from the nursery if you wanted to plant vegetables. The area is perfect because each farm is separated from the next by the mountains and bees doesn’t travel through thus preventing cross-pollination. Sadly an unfavourable economic climate, lack of modernization and international competitors brought everything to a suffocating stop. Today he makes more money providing accommodation for the tourists that travel through. As we stand admiring the massive tree that dominates this part of the farmyard I realise that the cat is still in the room along with my nutrition for the day… Damn it! Obviously he took all the meat. Kindly he left the pudding. Backtracking for 20km’s I am reminded of the beauty of the Nuwekloof Pass/Gorge. Once up on the plato again a wide landscape unfolds in front of me. My goodness, we really live in a stunning world.

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34 In Willowmore I fill up with petrol and add some oil to the engine. KLR’s infamously use oil in large quantities and I have learned to check the level frequently. Down the street someone has done some landscape gardening by filling the trunk of an old car with soil and planting cacti inside. From Willowmore there runs a small dirt road via the Swanepoelspoort Pass to Klipplaat. I travel on gravel. The road is a little beauty. Turns and winds, dips and rises. River and rock formations, wildlife and old farm buildings add to the interest. I’m the only vehicle on the road and thus enjoy clear air and have it all to myself.

Not far from Willowmore and still before the Swanepoelspoort Pass I stop near a farm workers house to take some pictures of road signs. Low water bridge crossings, one vehicle at a time and 90ْ turns are surely only found on gravel roads… The backpack I carry my valuables in has torn open from all the wear and tear, trying to fix it I will have to resort to using safety pins but where to find some? The local grocery shop doesn’t have any but I do buy some Chappies and Nikkerballs. The family running the shop out of the back of their house has recently taken it back from some bad Nigerian tenants. Reminding me of my own little farm grocery shop I used to run while living with my family everything is neatly lined up in rows all the labels facing to the front. Omo, Boxer, Lux, Lucky Star Pilchards, Sugar, Malt… Ahh, such distinctive smell. Towards Jansenville the road is being upgraded to tar. Stopping to take a leak I notice more closely how the vegetation has changed. Here the

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35 landscape is dominated by dangerous looking cacti. I’m glad I don’t have to farm this land. Finally I find some safety pins in Pearston. From here I’m treated again to a stunner of a little road going past Swaershoek and up the Swaershoek Pass. With a predictable and smooth surface I can ride

at speed as well as look at the landscape. The day heats up quickly and once more I find myself looking for shelter. Adventure Magazine

36 I underestimated the distance of my route and by the time I roll into Cradock I realize I’m running late. This though doesn’t deter me from taking another detour to see Lake Arthur and ride more exiting dirt but from here I don’t stop to take pictures anymore. Riding through the edge of a thunderstorm I try to make speed but by the time I hit Dordrecht the sun is already hanging low. Passing through Rossouw and Clifford I’m on small twisty road. The landscape has changed dramatically now and I’m starting to see bigger and bigger mountains with those typical sandstone face. Once near Barkly East I open throttle on tarred road but soon realize something is wrong with the bike. She won’t pull above 5000rpm, that’s 120km/h. I’m too tired to be worried but do feel disappointed. Is this the start of the end of the trip? As the last breath of dusk dissipates I arrive safely in Barkley East. From here I have to find my way to the farm of Wallace Hardy where I’ll be staying for the night. He is one of my dad’s clients and coincidentally my dad is actually also in the area and has decided to join us. Getting confused by the dark I can’t find the farm but John comes to my rescue. John is a good old biking friend from our school days in Bloemfontein, joining me on the trip, he was the only one of three friends I invited to take up on my invitation to do a Lesotho tour. Wallace’s farm is our meeting point and wisely he arrived earlier. The night is spent with sweet wine and vibrant discussion on everything from farm stuff to biking. Its also good to see my dad again. Wallace, having been a bachelor till recently, whipped up a delicious roast chicken dinner. Being an old farmhouse, with 3 single beds standing along the one wall, the room John and I share is as big as my whole Cape Town flat! Good night John, good to have a friend to share the adventure…

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37 Day 3 Barkley East to Matatiele (320km)

From our bedroom window we can see our bikes standing in the garden under a willow tree. All green. Yes, we both have KLRâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. This trip was one of the things that motivated us to buy similar adventure touring bikes. John does also has a ZX14 and a Fireblade for stunt riding at home. John had his own little adventure yesterday as he rode from Bloemfontein to meet up with me.

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38 Fiddling with his GPS he went off the road and smashed into a rock bending the crash bar. Nothing serious but as it now rubs against the fairing he is adamant on bending it back before we head off. I also still have to sort out my bike. She still runs but because the engine stutters at higher refs. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m worried the problem might worsen and leave me stranded in the middle of Lesotho. John is the 1st to realize the problem lies with the air intake. Investigating we find a totally clogged filter!

I recently learnt that one has to treat a sponge filter with a special oil but being new to the procedure I overdone it and because of the more than 800kmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of gravel road Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done so far the whole thing became just one big dust magnet. Wallace, being a professional quad racer, came to the rescue with cleaner and new filter oil. Sorted! Using tools from the farm, a hammer and block of wood, John also manage to bend back the crash bar. He recently fitted GPS but there seems to be a problem with the electrical connections. Long last the bikes are sorted.

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39 At Rhodes we decide to go see the location of the Tiffendale Ski Resort. This takes up a lot of time but the ride is definitely worth it. From here we are starting to be challenged by steep climbs and descents one after the other. Nothing we can’t handle but the road surface is covered in millions of small ball bearing like stones that makes sudden deceleration impossible. Inevitably I am caught out by a sharp turn with a camber to the wrong side and end up skidding off the road, planting the KLR between some boulders. I come off lightly with only my confidence dented.

Right on top of the Naude’s Nek Pass we came upon a 5 Star hotel. The luxury is unreal, the building beautifully built. They have to run of a generator but the whole sys-

tem is self sustainable, given you put in some diesel of course.

Time is not on our side and we make speed on bigger roads towards Matatiele. We thought we’d ride all the way to Molumong in Lesotho today but given the sun is already setting again I can only laugh at my optimism. We will have to make an unscheduled stop and stay over in Matatiele. Just outside of Matatiele, as we stop to take a picture of a

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40 rainbow and use John’s GPS to find the contact details of local B&B’s. Technology really make our world small, within two phone calls I arranged beds for the night.

Bosman’s Dakkie appears to be groaning under the weight of all his luggage. He explains that he’s got his full diving suit on board as he wants to test the waters once in Cape Town.

While hanging around by the roadside I noticed a bike approaching. With no shame I flag the rider down and to our delight we cross paths with a fellow adventurer. Bosman Spaarwater from Gauteng on his Dakar on his way to Cape Town!

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41 The internet shop, video shop and fast food restaurant combo, Fernandoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, made delicious pizzas for dinner. Having full stomachs we retired to our accommodation for the night. Right in the centre of town the Resthaven B&B provided hot showers and comfortable beds. The owner also has a job with a local security company. As he knows Lesotho very well I use the opportunity to enquire about our route for the next day.

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42 Day 4 Matatiele to Molumong (339km)

For breakfast we have what was left of the Fernandoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pizza from last night. Having stocked up with food & drink at the local Shoprite we head for the Qachaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nek Border Post.

Some quick paperwork and for a minimal fee we are finally in the Mountain Kingdom! Check out the aids awareness note. Adventure Magazine

43 All along the road, which is still tarred, people stand seemingly with no other task than to look at everything that comes past. I can’t help wondering if they really have nothing better to do. This is a weird place. Nobody seems to be in a hurry to do anything. Here they still plough with oxen. Riding along John uses every opportunity to entertain the onlookers with a splendid display of wheelies. He recently started training to be a stunt riding artist and just can’t get enough. I am worried though that this sort of risk taking could turn

nasty. Following him I don’t concentrate on the map in front of me. He has GPS. Eventually we realize we’re on the wrong road. While popping a wheelie he missed a turn. Backtracking, we decide to play it safe and top up with fuel at the petrol station we passed just after crossing the border. This mistake ended up costing an hour of the day but at least the bikes are filled to the brim. Riding now on dirt the B45 road winds along the Tsoelike river with villages dotting the slopes. This road is a big artery into this part of Lesotho and big vehicles, like a truck with a Caterpillar on

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44 the back, still use it. All be it at a very slow pace. Reaching Seshlabathebe or some place nearby we find some petrol pumps but quickly realize these havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t pumped fuel of any sort in a long time.

From here we start to slowly climb up towards the bigger mountains crossing the streams that flow from their flanks. Adventure Magazine

By early afternoon we are in what must be the most beautiful part of Lesotho, crossing the Matebeng Pass we are in exceptionally good spirit. Thunderstorms rolling in doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even dampen the spirit!

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46 Approaching Sehong Hong we are challenged for the 1st time with some serious steep and rocky road. At one of the streams John flags me down. We just passed a taxi loaded to the roof and he would like to see it navigate the rough terrain through the stream and up the embankment. The taxi don’t seem to be in a hurry and just cruise at a donkey’s pace but it was worth the wait. Calmly as if an everyday event it scales the embankment with front wheels lifting off the ground, smoke bellowing from the rear!

Farther down the road one can see attempts of upgrading the road. Big earth moving has scarred the side of the mountain. This must be where the truck is heading… would be fun to see it navigate that stream! At this point we pass a 4x4 with what must be some tourists. A elderly man with presumably his wife. They are going in the opposite direction. We don’t stop to chat but as he passes me he shouts from an open window: “good luck!” He must recon we will have trouble riding where he just drove…

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47 A couple of k’s on all is revealed. A steep climb on a narrow road with rock, dongas and a near sheer drop to the bottom of the valley.

mountains and here the road evens out. Some fast riding to make up time but eventually we are on smaller roads again.

As we crest the top of this climb John loses momentum and topple over. Funny how quick the spectators gather. Nobody hurt and no damage done we hand out some of those Chappies and Nikkerballs I bought in Klipplaat and plough on. By now we are on top of the

This place is just so picturesque. I noticed a beautiful scene and want to turn around to take a picture but for no reason end up toppling over as well. John recons we’re tired and don’t concentrate well enough anymore. That may just as well be the case

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48 The sun sitting low again John is getting worried we wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make our destination before nightfall. How far still? I have been in Molumong before and will recognize the road but it still evades us. Just one more hill but by the time we get to the top another steep valley unveils. As the sun leaves the day and night fall we finally reach the Backpackerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lodge in Molumong. To my surprise and great delight an old acquaintance, Tom, is also here. Tom used to be the care taker but has since moved on and is working at the University in Maseru. He explains that it is a pure co-incidence that we see each other again because he is also just staying for the night passing through. Worn-out and desperately tired I brave a cold shower and after playing around with our cameras we settle in for a deep sleep.

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49 Day 5 Molumong to Hilton, PMB (231km) and all the way to Hilton near Pietermaritzburg where we will be staying with my aunt. Having had a exhausting ride the day before John is the last to get out of bed but in good time the wheels are rolling again.

Molumong is a small village not too far from Mokhotlong. The Backpackers Lodge used to be a trading post belonging to some Scottish guy but that was a long time ago. A travel magazine would refer to the accommodation as rustic, that basically just mean single beds, water from a stream, no electricity and everything that comes with a lack of such privilege. There is though some atmosphere of calm and timelessness here. The people are friendly and kind as well. You can buy what amounts to a fully stuffed bankie for only R10! Today we ride down Sani Pass

From Molumong it is just a couple of km’s to Mokhotlong where we should be able to find petrol. After filling up at the Qacha’s Nek Border Post yesterday we haven’t had another opportunity. With an 400km (easy ride) range on the KLR we could try to make for Himeville just under the Sani Pass but decide to visit the town anyway. Although I’ve been in Mokhotlong before I had no luck finding a garage with petrol but as we explore deeper into the town we do find a legitimate station. It is run by a Chinese guy. Funny how they’ve infiltrated even this, what must be to them, a desolate and alienating place. They also sell cooking gas. All along little stalls selling food, clothes and other merchandise hug the road, donkeys strolling past.

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50 We don’t have a long way to go today and take things easy stopping at what must be a landmark waterfall to take some pictures. With three shepherds approaching us we use the opportunity to sample some local portraits. After having climbed to the very top of the mountains passing nearby Thabana–Ntlenyana, the highest point in Southern Africa, we descend through long open valleys reaching Sani Pass Border Post in no time.

The usual picture taking at the Sani sign precedes our descend. I am surprised by how washedaway the pass has become in the last 2 years. Warily we negotiate steep downhill on lose rock. The pass separates the Lesotho border post from the South African one.

I’ve always hated riding in someone else’s dust and whilst John and I keep a good riding distance one can’t plan for other vehicles. As my luck would have it a police van has caught up with us, having already passed John, throwing up a moerse amount of dust! Not wanting to be enveloped I speed up and end up being chased at over 120km/h for the last 15km’s of dirt. Making a stop to regroup at the intersection with our 1st tarmac on SA soil I am met by a very moody John. Coming down Sani he smashed into another rock, again bending the crash bar right close to the fairing. Nothing serious I’m thinking but he’s not a happy bunny… Climbing off he neglects to put the bike in gear and as it rolls forward and off the side stand I grab it just in time…

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“ With this I also notice the front wheel is flat… Now John is REALLY not a happy bunny!” While I warm a canister tire-fix against my body we engage in some motivational talk. I’ve always had satisfactory results from tire-fix but firmly believe in warming it up first. In fact, they say one must fix the tube properly once in the nearest town but my old DR500S have been running on such fix on both tires for years.

Tire-fixed we have an uneventful ride on tar all the way reaching my aunt’s in Hilton by midday. The idea was to have a sort of a chill out rest day in the middle of the trip. After unloading the bikes and having lunch with my aunt and her husband (Oom Tony and Tannie Annalé) we set about trying to bend the crash bar back.

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52 I felt that, since the metal isn’t actually touching the fairing plastics having only bent 1cm inwards, it’s unnecessary to make an issue of it and rather not scratch where it’s not itching. John felt the bike didn’t look like that and he won’t have it any other way…

it still doesn’t fit, more bending and so on…

We have much to thank them, while Oom Tony helped with the bike providing tools and all, Tannie Annale washed all our dirty clothes. Being a keen photographer she also burned to disc our With the exception of being invited images and video captured so far thus allowing us to free up space to a 3hour Christmas dinner the rest of the day until midnight was on the memory cards for the 2nd spent stripping the bike, bending, part of the trip. fitting, bending, fitting, bending, now it doesn’t fit the bolts, bending, Day 6 Hilton, PMB to Katse (370km) Fast riding right back on the same tarred road to Sani we fill up at Himeville for in case Mokhotlong doesn’t have fuel. Now we have to get back up Sani Pass. With all the lose rock, climbing the steep turns won’t be easy but our fear is short lived for we manage to ride all the way to the top without falling. Being Christmas day I didn’t expect to see any other bikes on the pass but to my delight we find husband and wife Lettie and Otto right in the middle. They are also on their way into Lesotho but only for the day. Adventure Magazine

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54 By the time we leave Mokhotlong, our tanks filled to the brim, it’s already midday. We make fast progress on tar heading towards Mapholaneng on the A1. The landscape is incredible, with the road turning, rising, dipping and rising again. Steep inclines but at a good pace. Making a stop at some little supplies station we are reminded of the dangers of these roads.

we stop to ask for directions. Ever since we 1st entered Lesotho passing most villages the dogs would chase after John. This gentleman’s dog didn’t make an exception either but luckily, sensing no threat, calmed quickly and settled down in the afternoon sun.

Just before we get to Mapholaneng the alternative road to Katse forks off to the left. With proper signs indicating the way to Katse I feel confident that it shouldn’t be too difficult to get through this way. The map though warns with “4x4 only” signs and from The Wes’s ride report (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/ index.php?topic=11097.40) I realise we should be aware. This whole area feels like it must be in the middle of the mountain range, the plateau so to speak. The valleys are wider and the peaks further apart. By 2pm we reach our 1st fork in the road that doesn’t give away the direction to Katse. Luckily there is someone living on the hillside so

This is the last village to be reached by vehicle from this side of Lesotho and from here it is clear that thetrack we are on is not being used by vehicles anymore.

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map, now that we know where we are, we realize we should have put aside more time to cover this section of the journey. I feel a bit stressed because we will probably ride right until dusk before reaching Katse but won’t mind making camp if we run even later than that, but John is being consumed by his fears. Taking the lead he is starting to ride faster and faster. He doesn’t like the idea of putting up tent in the unknown, he recons the Basotho will do us harm. Having been in Lesotho once before, on my own, I underJudging by the distance on the stand his anxiety but at the same Adventure Magazine Riding along the road, which best be called a track from here on, it offers up one after the other steep climb. Imagine the steepest street in BoKaap, narrow it down to 2-spoor, now cover it in rocks anything from the size of a tennis ball to a soccer ball, add some sections of bare bedrock with steps 20-30cm high and lastly throw in deep eroded dongas with a near vertical drop inches away. That’s what we’re riding now. 1st gear all the time.

56 time know it’s unfound.

cross a obstacle like a valley.

The idea is to make sure you just ask the local chief if you may put up tent and offer a small fee as sign of gratitude. Moreneng means ‘place of the chief’, or at least that is what Otto said. By asking anyone: moreneng? We should be pointed in the right direction…

John makes the call, we’re going left. About a kilometre further, having already blundered down some steep section of the track, my eye catch some boys standing in the distance. I decide to stop but John is already so far in front that I can’t call him back. Calling the boys closer I ask about the road to Seshote. They can’t really speak English but understood me well enough to point out that we should have taken the other road. Oh bloody hell! We’re already short on time and now John is speeding in the wrong direction!

For John logic now lies in keeping his eye on the GPS in front of him and hurrying along trying to close the gap between two points. As we climb right on to another plateau, up up up, the road disappears for a moment and we just trek across flat lawn like grass. Almost fun. Finding the faint track again we get to another fork in the road… Now I’m a bit lost. According to my map we should hook a right but I can’t be sure that the fork we’re standing at is the one marked on my map. Time to ask the locals I’m thinking but there is no one around. Ok, lets look at the GPS. No roads show up on the screen but if one looks at the direction of where we are and where we want to be we should be going left. I don’t trust this GPS. The correct roads here sometimes go in the incorrect direction just to

Do I try to chase after him and risk crashing? For as long as he sees my headlight behind him he will keep on speeding ahead. Or do I just stop here and wait till he realize I’m not coming and decide to turn around and come to look for me? I think the answer is obvious. While waiting I use the time to chat to the boys and they even go along with me taking some pictures. They have about 7 dogs presumably helping them to take care of the sheep by fending off predators. Surely the dogs are mostly companions in this lonely

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57 landscape. What must it be like to hang around the mountain slopes guarding the sheep day after day after day for the years these boys are old? Imagine, sitting there with just the wind blowing across the grass in a timeless eternity. What do they know about our modern world?

Hearing his thumper in the distance I am relieved John has turned around but by the time he stops next to me he is boiling with anger. “Why are you not coming? We are going to be late! Do you realize how far I was when I had to turn back?” Suddenly the peace is broken. Reluctantly John follows me back to the right road. (In retrospect, having looked it up on Google Earth, I now know that John’s road would have taken us to Katse never the less but it is much longer and a bit more difficult.) Scaling yet another steep section of lose rock I feel my confidence slipping away and sure as hell lose control of the bike. Jumping left and right I see in slow motion the front wheel rolling over the edge. In a desperate move to gain control I keel over with a crack. John, having anticipated I will have difficulty after he went up here first, comes running back to help pick

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58 the bike up. We have to drag her away from the edge first though. There is an village on the slope and before long a couple of spectators have gathered. One lady even kindly help to roll away some of the biggest rocks to give me a clean start. This little incident has brought back some camaraderie and as we leave behind yet another obstacle we ride side by side.

Progress is painfully slow. We canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make any speed because the rocks are just pulverising the bikes. At one point my eye catch the reflection of something flying off Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bike. Stopping to see what it is I realize a big chunk of his skid plate broke off. My skid plate is still whole but has torn out at one of the mounting points.

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59 Back on two wheels again we ride along, now in the dark. It’s a bit scary because every settlement we pass I can hear dogs chasing after us but I can’t see them. One barking right next to me on the embankment give me such a fright I yank my leg up hitting it numb against the tank. These things are more like Hyenas! Finally we come to the A8, a tarred road that will take us to Katse. I’m a bit disappointed that we’re riding this in the dark because we can only see as far as our headlights shine and as we snake along mountain passes I am dying with curiosity as to what the landscape looks like. Not having made any arrangements for accommodation at Katse we waste more time trying to find a place to rest our weary bodies but at long last John leads me into the Katse Lodge. First things first, we need to eat! After a delicious dinner meal with Christmas special malva pudding at the lodge restaurant we take the cheapest option for accommodation and book ourselves into some room in a building with a communal bathroom. A quick shower and off to bed. Thank goodness, we made it! Adventure Magazine

60 Day 7 Katse to Motsoanakaba (172km)

Today we will attempt riding all the way to Semonkong on a road that I’m not sure actually still exists but we will try never the less. Having learnt our lesson yesterday we decide to get moving early not even wasting time on having breakfast. We do stop though to get a good look at the dam and obviously take some pictures.(The panoramas are courtesy of John.)

Last night’s ride seemed like a dream. It took us to this place under the veil of the blackest night. 1st thing as my feet hit the floor beside my bed I rush to the window to have a look at what the view is like. Wow! I could never have imagined. The dam comes right up to the lodge as one would think it should but this is no ordinary dam, it’s Katse! The water lies in a valley that snakes it’s way through the mountains.

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With only the nuts we received as a gift for Christmas and 2l of water between us we set off for the last full day of riding Lesotho. The road from Katse to Thaba-Tseka is in good condition and we make fast progress. In Thaba-Tseka we look for petrol but the station is all out, not even Paraffin! Riding this last section of the route that I planned more than a year ago will depend on if we can find petrol. We have enough to make it to Maseru but that will have to be on the straight road. Quietly I argue with myself. John had a tough day yesterday and I can sense he would rather get back home to his girlfriend today still that blunder into another difficult day of riding. On the other hand, we have so far been successful in riding the exact route we planned and it would be a shame to give away the opportunity of a lifetime just because we are a little tired. We havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t made an chance yet

to roll out our tents and camp. Semonkong would be the place we will do so. The route I want to take will go off the main road from Mantsonyane via Auray and Seng to Semonkong. Montsonyane being the last village that might have petrol. I decide that, given we find fuel in Mantsonyane, it will be a sign we can safely ride the route I planned. Riding on mountain ridges the road offers up dangerous potholes and rock sticking out of the otherwise smooth surface. The landscape is all inspiring. Stopping for more pictures it almost seem like the Swiss Alps here. Apart from the Basotho shepherds of course. Them you only find here in the Mountain Kingdom.

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A quick search through the village and we actually find a petrol station with petrol! Our trusty steeds filled to the brim I am happy for the sign I’ve been waiting for. Let’s ride! John doesn’t share my enthusiasm. As we rode his mind also worked overtime but he decided to pray to God and ask for a sign. According to John, God haven’t sent a sign yet. I recon it be best we actually chat to the locals and find out about the possibility of travelling from here

to Semonkong. As we stand arguing about the matter a lady called Thato introduces herself. Seeing these two helpless white blokes she offers to help as a translator. Thato lives in Maseru where she

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63 studies, English amongst other subjects, at some school and is only on a visit to Mantsonyane to see her mother. I guess you could say we chanced upon Thato. She doesn’t know the area that well but after asking around on our behalf she breaks the news. “There is no road, only mountains…” Damn it! I don’t want to give up now. I still want just a little more adventure. I am worried John will take this as the sign from God but luckily he doesn’t become any more stubborn than he already is. I insist on having more opinions. While John wait with the bikes Thato and I wander off into the village to look for a local 4x4 owner that occasionally travels past Auray to deliver supplies. We don’t manage to find him but do speak to a couple of other villagers and now popular consensus is that we can travel the road.

though point us to the local Police Post to get yet more opinions. Taking her address I promise to mail some of the images I took of us. Leaving the petrol station and Thato behind John follows me to a small building that is the Police Post right on the edge of the village. Brushing past a prisoner, feet chained together standing in the doorway, we enter a gloomy room barely bigger than a small bedroom. Inspector Makhetha sits behind his desk. Horse saddles hanging from the wall, paperwork stacked into the corners. The television and DSTV decoder standing on the far side seems out of place. He doesn’t get up and just points to the little wooden bench instructing us to take a seat.

Thato is concerned for our wellbeing and stress the fact that the road will be difficult but accepts that she won’t be able to stop us from attempting to ride it. She does Adventure Magazine

64 The long and the short is that the Inspector is also a newcomer to this area and have to resort to asking the men with chained feet about the route we propose. They speak in a language we can’t understand but the gestures are clear. A lot of pointing in the air, left and right and some forks in the road. Great! John only want to know one thing: “what is the quality of the road?” To which the Inspector responds: “I just asked these men and they say it is very drivable.” Sweet, let’s take the plunge. I managed to persuade John and keep on nursing the mood by being very friendly. It’s just gone midday. The road to Auray is in good condition and we make two stops for pictures and one to take a leak. John has relaxed and the spirit is high. Passing Auray we have to ask for directions as the road makes a fork but have no problem in communication.

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65 From here on the climbs and descents become steeper and steeper. Negotiating a steep downhill I foolishly follow John closely and almost end up crashing into him when he slips into a donga and falls right in front of me.

The road has now deteriorated to a track much worse than yesterday. At this stage all is still predominantly downhill but I fear when the time come for climbing upwards again. Chances are that we are not even on the right way anymore! I finally catch up with John finding him at the bottom of an insanely steep and rocky descent. He lost control, fell over and scraped to a standstill. Now I’m pretty startled too.

Now the mood is all screwed up again and, like yesterday, John speeds ahead. Refusing to stop even for a rest or drink of water. We haven’t had anything to eat today and I’m starting to feel weary.

The hand gestures of those prisoners flash in front of me. All that pointing in the air must have meant: “steep roads waiting for you silly bikers.” My dear Thato, we should have listened to you. Deflating my tires to get more grip, I manage to make the descent without incident but having gone down where I don’t think we will get up again we have inevitably gambled away the option of turning back in the hope op the road becoming better.

Continuing to take time for video and pictures I end up falling so far behind a racing John that I don’t see himfor the next hour. Only his tracks in the mud surrounding the stream crossings reveal his direction. I think he is back to trying to close the distance between the points on his GPS. Adventure Magazine

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67 Reaching a temporary flat section we ride past fields with mielies and through some boggy marshland. A horse standing in the middle of nowhere makes for another obstacle as it is chained to the ground but the chain is so long it races left and right being frightened by the bikes. Having made it so far I’m pleased but when I look further ahead my heart races not from exitement but from fear. Short lived is our relief when yet another rocky decent blocks progress. This is insane! Engine switched off I use the clutch as a rear brake and thus keep both feet on the ground. Easy does it. These rocks will smash metal and flesh alike. Rushing ahead again stubbornness makes John blunder down the wrong footpath and turning the bike around against this slope takes both our strengths as well as that of two willing Basotho boys. John is not in a good place right now. Fear and anger has taken over… At this stage John really urge me to stop taking pictures and making videos because, as he explained, we are in a situation of life and death and we should be concentrating on getting out of the mess

I got us into in the first place. I, on the other hand, only saw more photo opportunities and dramatic footage for my documentary… I’m a very persistent photographer but John has strong methods of persuasion. Fearing to lose all the footage I partially obey orders only sneaking out the camera when he can’t see it. Sooner than I’d hope I am caught out though and now things turn a bit nasty… I realize that further headstrongness on my side will only aggravate him, turning the day into a real crisis, so from here I will be very obedient and helpful. As instructed I take the lead and head towards the last descent before the river. The usual afternoon thunderstorms threatening from the North. As we ride we can see across the gorge to the other side where towers the mountain we will have to get up. The track is clearly visible but what concerns me is the sheer steepness of it! Unlike the usual mountain pass that winds left and right up the slope this one has long sections that just shoot straight up. Like the roads we’ve

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68 been on the last two days erosion has done it’s work leaving deep dongas and lots of lose rock I’m thinking, please John, lets make camp near the river and call it a day. We haven’t had anything to eat the whole day and our water is used up. Tomorrow we can attack this section with new strength… Cresting the last descent I see what must be a mirage.

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69 I see two 4x4â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with white people. What the f**k! I must be dreaming. The bike stays at the top while I run towards the cars, large raindrops starting to saturate the earth.

Praat julle Afrikaans? I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t express my relief in English. Dankie tog! Two families from Pretoria, hardy 4x4 enthusiasts, decided to take on this road but only from the other side going towards the North. Hello, what does the road look like? How long to Semonkong? We need to get out of this place because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m responsible for getting us down here.

them the whole day to get this far having left Semonkong this morning. Just the last two kilometres took them two hours! The road is covered in lose rock and so steep they partially lost control of the vehicles during descent. The wives and children had to get out and look on while the men struggled to get the cars down safely. Bursting into tears when things got too tense.

All is ok now and for me the sound of a familiar language The response is as feared. It took brings a feeling of relief and ease. Adventure Magazine

70 They recon we have no chance at getting up the mountain, in fact, they are pushing ahead because they themselves won’t get back up there. I shake my head in disbelief, what are we doing blundering down where we can’t get back up? I am sceptical if they will make it the way John and I came but they seem pretty confident. The decision was easy. We will stick together and make camp at the 1st village back on top of the Mountain. This meant though we will have to ride back up where we struggled so much to come down. Leading the way the 4x4s make their way up the ridge with John just behind them. I take a moment to reflect on the coincidence that just happened but regret the fact that we’re not going further towards the river. I would have liked to make camp there for the night… The 4x4s make it look so easy. They just slowly crawl up the track, stopping to roll some boulders, inching their way up. For myself and John it’s a different matter. The worst sections of the track is narrow and right next

to a sheer drop to the stream below. If one lose control of the bike it can easily jump over the side. The problem facing us is that the track is too steep and the surface too lose to allow riding up it slowly. The bikes just get stuck, wheel spinning around in the rocks. You have to have momentum but once on the roll the bike jumps so violently over the surface it makes for a hairy experience. The Dogs I ride with in Cape Town would advise me to “stand up and open up” and although this technique works exceptionally well when we fool around in the dunes the Lesotho rocks make for a different story all together. Here a aggressive attitude might send you over a cliff or disembowel the bike on a rock. Easy does it. Little throttle, little momentum and just keep it steady to ensure traction. John opted for walking beside the bike, push-riding it up, while I hold on to the other side ensuring she stays upright. It works but takes a lot of energy. At one stage we almost go over the side anyway! John’s temper is about as jumpy

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as the beast we’re trying to wrestle up the track. Once through the worst section John gets back in the saddle and I give him a last push for momentum as he rides further up. Limping back to my bike, completely exhausted from the exercise, I’m thinking John will park his bike at the top and come down to help me but a while later I faintly hear him shout from the top. Bloody hell, what is the matter now? Back up I go… My body is protesting, I’m totally exhausted, I’m crawling with no shame… Once in sight of John he explains that some Basotho has gathered round his bike and in fear of them stealing his stuff he can’t come to help me… I will have to ride my bike up with no help. Sure I deserve punishment but hell? Having had nothing to eat and

only 1L of water to drink my body doesn’t want to cooperate anymore. 3 Chappies for energy will have to do. With the beast between my legs I take a deep breath and launch forward. Dodging the biggest rocks I hang on for dear life, front wheel bouncing, aaaaaaah. I bloody made it! Ok, now only one more section, that place where John fell and slid to the bottom, and we’re on top. Here at least some Basotho boys helps to push me when I run out of momentum. I wish I could say it’s my skill that helped me ride but to be honest I think I was just very lucky not to crash badly. We are on top! The family’s have already started to set up camp. John has calmed down and doesn’t seem to be too worn-out. I on the other hand am totally f***ed, finish en klaar!

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72 Day 8 Motsoanakaba to Nooitgedacht, Jagersfontein (428km) Waking next to John in his tent we share I’m reminded of yesterday’s ordeal. I take comfort though in the fact that, if all goes well, by tonight I will sleep in a familiar bed on the family farm. Breaking up camp we are closely watched by the local children. Clearly this is a sight they are unfamiliar with. I should admit to enjoy being a curiosity.

Motsoanakaba Primary School, what a remote place to build a school. Come to think of it, all the villages in the area obviously have children that need educating. Last night it rained a bit and as we make our way back to Mantsonyane we encounter one after the other

muddy pool of Lesotho clay. I think it is fare to say we have had our share of adventure and would now like to get back to the comfort zone we know. I am not the cocky rider anymore that came down this road yesterday. Sliding around in the mud I’m anxious for John’s mood and rightfully so because after only a couple of k’s his temper flares again. “Dis jou f***en skuld dat ons hier is en nie al by die huis nie!” Guilty as charged. Speeding ahead once more I lose sight of John. The whole idea was to not ride alone for in case one of

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73 us get in trouble. Navigating the slippery 2-spoor I end up skidding sideways but luckily no harm done.

I finally catch up with John at Mantsonyane. From here we are back on main roads and as John instruct, we head back to the home country on the shortest route, I obey.

Filling up with cheap petrol just before crossing the border at Maseru Bridge I decide to shake hands and part as we are now in tamed land again. I want to thank you John. We had a tough time and my stubbornness, even

call it selfishness, was responsable for putting you in a situation that made you feel out of comfort and control.

Doing this trip and the roads we did was only possible if I could Adventure Magazine

74 find someone to ride with me. Going by myself would just have been too risky. You were the only one to take up on my invitasion. Thanks. My destination is farther South than John’s and with this I revert back to original plans by travelling on gravel. Reddersburg makes for another chance to get the camera out.

you also feel such a lonesome sadness once a big exiting journey/ holiday has ended? Now all that is left are the memories.

With the old girl turning 20K I realise we will have to celebrate her 21st before I get back to Cape Town, probably somewhere on the N1 crossing the Karoo. Now I’m almost there, the family farm a mere ½ hour’s ride away. I will stay there for a week until my final return to Cape Town. I would like to leave the end of my story for the video to tell. Don’t Adventure Magazine

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Chain Maintenance http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

believed the O-Rings created high levels of drag. However, that is not the case. A well-maintained O-Ring (X-ring, Y-ring etc) chain provides less drag, requires less maintenance, and lasts a heck of a lot longer.

It is important to remember that the purpose of an O-Ring chain is to keep the lubrication inside. So based on that, there is little you can do to keep your chain in top Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face it, without your chain, you ainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t going anywhere. So why, condition, right? Sorry, but Othen, do we ignore our chains for so Ring chains require attention just like everything else on your bike. long? Chains have gotten so good over the past 10 years that it is easy A true sign of a squid is a dry, to forget about them. But an ounce squeaking, rusty chain. of prevention is worth a pound of A chain that is ignored will evencure. Which in motorcycling, an tually fail, typically by breaking. ounce of prevention can also be A broken chain will many times worth a pound of skin. ball-up around the countershaft and front sprocket. When this hapThere are really two main types of chains: O-Ring chains and Non-O- pens, your chain will rip and tear its way through your soft aluminRing chains. O-Ring chains have, as you would guess, small O-Rings ium motor and will always result in engine damage (either from the built into them. The O-Rings are used to keep grease and lube inside chain flailing around or from the motor coming to an immediate your chain (between all the movstop). Sometimes a chain will get ing parts). Non-O-Ring chains do caught in the rear wheel, resulting not. Back in the day when O-Ring in an immediate rear wheel skid. chains came out, many people Rarely, somebody will get lucky Adventure Magazine

78 and the chain will fly off the bike without making contact with anything while the rider coasts to a stop (this is rare). In either case, you will be stranded. More than likely, you It is important (with O-Ring will have some damage, be it be chains) to always lube your chain minor or major. immediately after riding, while the chain is warm. Remember how we So now that we’ve established talked about how O-Ring chains chain maintenance is probably a good idea, where should we start? keep the lube inside the chain? Well, lubing your chain while still Like all things mechanical, let’s hot will cause the lube to be drawn start with lubrication. You should into the chain as it cools. Also, relube your chain every 500km’s of member that chain lube’s primary riding. There are many types of job is to lube between the chain lube available; everything from and the sprockets. basic wax, foaming wax, conventional lube to foaming conventional lube. Different lubes will provide different levels of fling and protection. Typically, the more fling, the better protection and the less fling, the less protection. The hard part is deciding what level of fling/protection you want to deal with. The less fling, the more frequently you’ll have to lube.

Also, you need to lube your chain in two locations. Spray the majority of the lube on the inside of the chain. This helps prevent fling and will force lube into the chain when you are riding. You also need to spray lube directly onto the O-Rings. The best way to do this is at the rear sprocket, spinning the wheel as you go. Avoid When your chain is without lube, it the temptation to prop the bike up will build up a lot of heat and result on the track stand or center stand, start the bike, put it in first gear in the chain stretching. Without while the rear wheel is in the air, lube, your O-Ring will also be exposed to the harmful ozone and and spray as the motor moves the ultraviolet rays, causing them to dry rear wheel. The number of fingers claimed by this exercise is out, crack, and even fall off. astonishing and a quick search on Adventure Magazine

79 the internet will reveal images of people who have lost their fingers doing this (not just dummies, but experienced motorcycle mechanics). It is much better and safer to do it the hard way, with the motor off and the bike in neutral.

will have an immaculately clean chain and an amazingly filthy rag. CAUTION: Be sure you get “kerosene” - not camp fuel or white gas. Camp fuel and white gas comes in the same can as kerosene but it is extremely volatile and will ignite astonishingly easy. Be If you do this regularly, your chain double and triple sure that the can will keep a high level of lubricasays “Kerosene”. Don’t trust the tion but will also draw a lot of dirt store clerk either, if it doesn’t say and you’ll end up with a really kerosene it is most likely white dirty-looking chain. Dirt, as I’m fuel and that is very dangerous. sure you can imagine, is very bad It’s also a really great idea to for a chain. A good idea is, every remove the countershaft sprocket 5000km’s or whenever you change cover and clean all the excess lube your oil, to clean your chain. The build-up that is around the front easiest way to clean your chain sprocket. If you let this stuff build is with a rag, a toothbrush, and up it can cause problems that you kerosene. probably do not want to ever deal with. Don’t use harsh solvents, like gasoline, because they can ruin the Your chain also needs to be adO-Rings. Spray or wipe your chain justed properly. Of course, your with kerosene. The best part about owner’s manual will have exact using kerosene is that it will clean requirements for your bike, but your chain incredibly fast, saving the rule of thumb is about 2.5 to you lots of time. I usually use an 3 inches of slack. But what does old rag and soak it with kerosene that mean and why is that imporand wipe it over the chain until the tant? Slack is how much the chain chain is clean. Incidentally, kerosene can be found at any department store, usually in the camping section. It’s traditionally used to run camp-stoves, lanterns and stoves. After about 20 minutes you Adventure Magazine

80 causes a lot of slop in the driveline. Example: twist the throttle, short delay, then lurching as the chain snaps tight, then loose until you are under heavy acceleration. Chain adjustments are very important, even though it may not be something you need to do very often. will move up and down freely at a point halfway between the two sprockets. You need slack because as your swing arm moves up to compress for a bump, the chain gets tighter. When a chain is too tight, it will bind on the sprockets, causing quicker wear of both chain and sprockets. A tight chain will also, over time, ruin your countershaft and your countershaft seal (the seal around the shaft that carries the front sprocket) and may even bend the countershaft. Also, a tight chain is more likely to develop tight spots. Tight spots are portions of the chain that stretch at different rates and cause binding between links. So, why not just run the chain really loose? Well, too loose and the chain runs the risk of flying off the sprockets. Bad news! Also, too loose

If your chain requires adjustment, your ownerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s manual will have the information you need to tighten/loosen it as there are many different types of adjustment. You will probably need to start by loosening the axle to allow the wheel to move. Then you can turn the adjuster screws, Âź turn at a time, until you reach the proper adjustment. I like to turn the left one, and then turn the right one the same distance to maintain wheel alignment. When you achieve proper slack, you need to make sure the wheel alignment is still correct. If the wheel is crooked in the swing arm, your chain and sprockets will wear rapidly and you can even get into strange handling characteristics. There are two ways to measure alignment. You can grab a flexible tape measure (like what tailors use) and measure from the centre of your axle

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81 to the centre of the swing arm pivot. Or you can string your bike up. Stringing requires you to get a really long piece of string and wrap it around the front tire. Then pull the lengths of string back toward the rear wheel. You can then use your calibrated eyeball to compare the strings with the alignment of the wheels. If your wheel is out of alignment, it will be pretty obvious. I have had a lot of success using the tape measure method. I think it’s quicker and more accurate. After you are confident with your alignment, tighten everything up and check the slack again. Most bikes will to tighten chain slack when everything is snugged back down. So I have to set the chain really loose so when I torque everything down the chain is set properly.

stretched out yet. Also, if your sprockets no longer look like points but a bunch of little hooks you need to replace it all. While we are on the subject of chains, a very popular upgrade is to lower the gearing to make the bike quicker off the line at the cost of top speed. The quickest and easiest way to lower gearing is to buy a front sprocket with one less tooth. Simply replacing the front doesn’t require a new chain and will cost about R150 to do. However, the disadvantages of doing this are pretty significant. First, if you are not replacing your chain at the same time, it will lengthen your wheelbase; that’s not such a big deal. But the biggest problem with dropping a tooth in front is you put a lot more torque on your countershaft. Possibly resulting in a ruined seal or worse, a bent countershaft .I know of more than a couple of bikes out there that bent countershafts within 80km’s

But how do you know when your chain needs to be replaced? If you go to your rear sprocket and pull straight back on the chain, you’ll be heading in the right direction. If your chain pulls away from the sprockets by much, it is probably stretched out. If the chain does not pull away and stays right on the sprocket, then the chain is not Adventure Magazine

82 of dropping to a smaller front sprocket - so this is likely more of an issue with high-torque motors. So the likelihood of this happening depends on how dramatic the change is and the characteristics of the motor, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s good to be aware of this before making any decisions. We strongly feel that the best way to lower gearing is to add teeth to the rear sprocket. Depending on how dramatic of a change you want, you will probably need a new chain. Usually, you increase four teeth in the rear to equal dropping one tooth in the front (but that varies greatly depending on what your stock gearing is). By changing rear sprockets, you have more control. You can go up by any number of teeth to get the result you want. I have typically only gone up one or two teeth in the rear to get the results I wanted. Plus, you are shortening your wheelbase. This is cool if you want to ride a track or a canyon. Another common upgrade you hear about is a 520 conversion. A 520 is a smaller, lighter chain. The advantage of this upgrade is you will have less rotating mass, less inertia, and therefore an internal dyno like a Dynojet will report a horsepower increase. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the same

reason a lot of people put lighter wheels on their bikes. However, you will need to go with aluminium sprockets, because they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make 520 steel sprockets, and you will use up chains and sprockets about 30% faster. Plus, because they are a lot lighter, high horsepower engines can snap a cheap or worn 520 chain easily. Another disadvantage is that a 520 chain and sprockets can be as much as 50% more money than a conventional setup. The true advantage of a 520 conversion is the sponsored racer who gets a new chain before every race. Even the most proficient street rider gets very little benefit from this and will never notice any difference. But then there are replacement issues. Every new bike today comes with a link-less chain. Meaning there is no master link. Every link is riveted. While master link chains are still available, the best idea is to purchase a chain rivet tool (about R250) so that you can replace your chain with another linkless chain. I would not want to have a master link come apart on a 120hp engine at high speed. Yikes! A common misconception with chain replacement is to change

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83 you chain and sprockets at the same time. This is only true if you use aluminium sprockets. If you use steel or factory sprockets, the rule of thumb is two chains to one set of sprockets. That is, of course, if you replace your chains before they are so bad they damage the steel sprockets. Unless you wish to change your gearing when your chain wears out, simply replace the chain. A good chain costs about R1000, and a rear sprocket can run around R500 or more. Even if the second chain wears out a little bit faster than the first

chain, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll still end up saving a bundle of money without compromising safety. So, there you have it. The moral of the story is: lube often. A well-lubricated chain is quieter and has a lot less drag allowing the motor to spin the rear wheel without having to force its way past a worn or tight chain. And if you are lubing your chain every 1000kmâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, you will be very aware of its condition for when it will need an adjustment or a replacement.

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The Great All Rounder XL700V

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85 The Transalp came arrived on our shores in the form of a 600cc many, many moons ago. It was then replaced with a 650cc model that was available up until late 2007. The newer model Transalp, with the Deauville based engine, is a real gem. The fuel injected 680cc engine purrs along at freeway speeds and sometimes, should the right hand develop urges of its own, a whole lot faster!

to side. This is annoying and can create rider fatigue really quickly. The solution: an MRA screen with an extender. The extender is adjustable to a point where it should be able to set your custom wind deflection to have you riding at a comfortable speed. Riding off-road has its dangers to you and you new found motorcycle. There is going to come a time where you are bound to drop it. Maybe Buying one straight off the not hard and not fast, but as showroom floor, there are little soon and you get those first ideas flowing through the heads scratches on you new boney, of buyers. To most, it’s merely it’s always a heart sore mata road bike or commuter. To ter. There are a couple of crash some, it’s the samurai sword bars available for the Transalp to their next adventure… just a such as the Givi, Kappa and couple of dreams away! SW-Motec stables. They proFarkling (a term used for fitting vide decent crash and engine extras onto your new motorprotection, but let’s face it, cycle) a Transalp seems pretty they won’t protect the bike straight forward and indeed it fully. Also there is a lack of is. But choosing the right com- handlebar and lever protecponents for the job at hand is tion on new bikes these days. crucial. Handguards such as Barkbusters could save your levers in The screen is probably one of the long run. the most important comfort Aftermarket pegs are definitely features - riding with too low needed. The stock pegs are a screen creates turbulence rubberised and do an appallaround the helmet, having the ing job at keeping the rider in neck and head weave from side the standing position. There Adventure Magazine

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87 are aftermarket pegs available from Hepco & Becker as well as FASTWAY, just to name but a few. Having your engine breathe and get rid of the restrictive gasses often helps for fuel economy, but then mostly you will have a gain in exhaust noise. Some prefer this, they say loud pipes save lives, but thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also the issue of noise pollution in some places that you would normally consider riding. Remember this when opting for a loud exhaust system. Most of them have inserts available that lower the decibel readings and make it quite easy to ride in some areas stealthily.

or not to farkle, the Transalp will fulfil most of the duty that you want it to and now that you know about the accessories available, it makes sense to give the bike a decent look over when looking to buy your next steed.

On the pannier side, you need to decide what works best. Some of the Kappa panniers are thinner and longer than the Hepco & Becker ones. But usually the aluminium panniers look the partâ&#x20AC;Ś I guess its function over form? The aluminium boxes are usually stronger and less prone to breakingâ&#x20AC;Ś and did you know that they provide some crash resistance? Whether you decide to farkle Adventure Magazine

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