11 minute read
FIVE MAGIC PARKS
These National Parks are road trip worthy
School’s out and the open road beckons, inviting you to embark on an unforgettable summer adventure. While California boasts remarkable natural wonders, venturing beyond state lines to explore US National Parks unveils a whole new world of breathtaking landscapes. Whether you embark on a solo journey or gather the whole family, a road trip to these out-of-state gems promises an experience you’ll cherish for a lifetime. Although popular during this season, with careful planning and an open mind, discovering the wonders of out-of-state National Parks is a rewarding escapade. Here are five enticing picks to ignite your wanderlust.
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Great Basin
Location: Nevada • EST: Oct 27, 1986 • Most known for: Ancient forests and limestone caves • Fun fact: It’s home to the only glacier in Nevada • Average temps: June — Avg High 76 & Avg Low 48 // July — Avg High 86 & Avg Low 57 • Distance and drive time: San Francisco — 520 miles // 9 hours • Los Angeles — 400 miles // 7 hours • Las Vegas — 300 miles // 4.5 hours • Reno — 380 miles // 6 hours *
Crater Lake
Location: Oregon • EST: May 22, 1902 • Most known for: Large deep blue lake, which was formed by the collapse of an ancient volcano • Fun fact: It is the deepest lake in America and clearest lake in the world • Average temps: June — Avg High 75 & Avg Low 45 // July — Avg High 80 & Avg Low 53 • Distance and drive time: San Francisco — 400 miles // 6.5 hours • Los Angeles — 800 miles // 12 hours • Las Vegas — 740 miles // 11.5 hours • Reno — 300 miles // 5 hours *
Great
Basin National Park is a refreshing mountain getaway, offering respite from the Nevada desert heat. It is also one of the least visited National Parks in the US. Take a hike to the foot of Wheeler Peak Glacier, the only glacier in Nevada, and marvel at the icy formations. Adventurous families can tackle the challenge of reaching the summit of Wheeler Peak, the second highest peak in Nevada at 13,065 feet. Other scenic trails like the BristleconeGlacier View Trail, showcase ancient bristlecone pine trees and panoramic mountain views. For beautiful alpine lakes, head to Stella Lake and Teresa Lake which are easily accessible via the Alpine Loop/Bristlecone trail. Make sure to explore the Lehman Caves, where guided tours take visitors through stunning limestone formations.
NPS tip: Great Basin National Park is located in extremely remote, eastcentral Nevada, five miles west of the town of Baker. This is a remote area with limited services, little to no cell coverage, no public wifi, and large stretches between gas and grocery services. Plan ahead and pack diligently in case of breakdowns, unexpected snow/dust/lightning storms, and no quick access to many conveniences. nps.gov/grba
PETS: Leave Fido at home. National Parks have strict restrictions on pets. So, though your pets are cherished family members, leaving them at home during national park visits allows you to better immerse yourself in nature and enjoy the experience.
Startenjoying the only National Park in Oregon by embarking on a scenic drive along Rim Drive, where the whole family can marvel at the deep blue waters of Crater Lake and enjoy the various viewpoints along the way, such as Watchman Overlook, Discovery Point, and Cloudcap Overlook. Hiking trails, like the Garfield Peak Trail or Discovery Point Trail, provide opportunities to explore the park’s unique volcanic landscape and encounter diverse flora and fauna. The Cleetwood Cove Trail leads to the lake’s edge, where families can take a refreshing swim or enjoy a boat tour to Wizard Island. Parts of the rim of Crater Lake are steep and can be dangerous, especially for young children, so please make sure to keep an eye on little ones.
NPS tip: May and June are months of transition in the park, as winter slowly gives way to summer. They can also be months of frustration, as lingering snow prevents access to much of the park. The road around Crater Lake and the park’s North Entrance might be closed due to snow. Before you visit, learn about seasonal road closures and check the current conditions to find out which roads are open. nps.gov/crla
CAMPING: If you don’t have a site confirmed, check regularly for cancellations, or try first-come, first-served sites, overflow camping, nearby national forests or private campgrounds. Consider using a thirdparty camping app to find availability. Flexibility and arriving early are key.
* Travel times and distances provided are approximate and can vary depending on road conditions and traffic. Check for road closures and make sure your point of entry to the park is open. Some of these drives are quite desolate, so plan to fill up the tank and have a plan for bathroom emergencies and make sure you have plenty of snacks on hand.
Olympic
Location: Washington • EST: June 29, 1938 • Most known for:
Incredible natural diversity • Fun fact: The Hoh Rainforest is one of the wettest places in the continental United States • Average temps: June — Avg High 62 & Avg Low 46 // July — Avg High 68 & Avg Low 51 • Distance and drive time: San Francisco — 865 miles // 14 hours • Los Angeles — 1200 miles // 19 hours • Las Vegas — 1200 miles // 19 hours • Reno — 760 miles // 13 hours *
Olympic National Park is very large, offering a diverse array of ecosystems to explore and appreciate. Home to three national wildlife refuges and Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary, the Pacific coast’s most popular areas are Kalaloch and Ruby Beach. Four rainforests, including Hoh, one of the finest remaining examples of temperate rainforest in the United States, are popular destinations to experience this grand lush, green environment year-round. Elwha and Sol Duc valleys provide dense, green forests and sparkling rivers. Glacially
Yellowstone
Location: carved Lake Crescent is an alluring attraction for pristine, natural beauty.
NPS tip: Hurricane Ridge is closed indefinitely following the tragic loss of Hurricane Ridge Day Lodge due to fire on May 7. Access to Hurricane Ridge area remains closed beyond Heart of the Hills entrance station. In addition, a portion of North Shore Road (Lake Quinault) is closed due to storm damage. nps.gov/olym
PASS OPTIONS: $35 one week / $70 annual / $80 America the Beautiful provides year-round access to multiple parks. nps.gov/planyourvisit/passes
Glacier
Location: Montana • EST: May 11, 1910 • Most known for:
Glaciers and diverse wildlife • Fun fact: Home to over 700 lakes! • Average temps: June — Avg High 70 & Avg Low 40 // July — Avg High 75 & Avg Low 45 • Distance and drive time: San Francisco — 1,150 miles // 19 hours • Los Angeles — 1,350 miles // 21 hours • Las Vegas — 1100 miles // 15.5 hours • Reno — 900 miles // 15.5 hours *
Glacier National Park offers stunning mountain scenery, crystal-clear lakes, and plenty of opportunities for hiking and wildlife viewing. The park’s Going-to-the-Sun Road is a must-drive, offering spectacular views of the park’s alpine landscape. Be sure to take the time to hike to some of the park’s most popular attractions, including Hidden Lake, Trail of the Cedars, Grinnell Glacier, and Avalanche Lake. If you’re visiting with kids, consider taking a guided horseback ride or boat tour for a unique perspective on the park. With 700 lakes, there are endless opportunities for first National Park • Average temps: June — Avg High 70 & Avg picnicking, swimming, and kayaking. Wildlife enthusiasts can go on wildlife spotting adventures to catch glimpses of bears, moose, and mountain goats.
Yellowstone is one of the most popular National Parks in the country and for a good reason. It’s home to a wide variety of wildlife, including bison, elk, and grizzly bears, and features geysers, hot springs, and canyons. The park has an extensive trail system to explore, and you can also book a whitewater rafting trip or enjoy fishing in pristine lakes. Old Faithful, the park’s most famous geyser, erupts every 90 minutes or so and is a must-see for anyone visiting the park. Other popular sights in Yellowstone include the Grand Prismatic Spring, Mammoth Hot Springs, and the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.
NPS tip: In summer 2023, a vehicle reservation is required for four areas of the park: Going-to-the-Sun Road, the North Fork, Two Medicine, and Many Glacier. Each location has unique details and requires a separate reservation. Glacier has become an extremely busy park. Expect crowds on roads, at visitor centers, on popular trails, and on shuttles.
NPS tip: Take the pledge. Tell a friend. Protect the park. The National Park Service works hard to protect Yellowstone and they need your help. The best way to start is by taking the Yellowstone Pledge. It’s a personal promise you make to yourself and the park. It can be taken anywhere: it doesn’t need to be taken out loud or in front of anyone. Tag #YellowstonePledge and encourage others to do the same. “I pledge to protect Yellowstone National Park. I will act responsibly and safely, set a good example for others, and share my love of the park and all the things that make it special.”
MY TRAIL NAME IS “DETOUR”
A Pacific Crest Trail Journey: Part 2
By Matt Johanson
Sugar
Foot,
Take Five, Bad Sherpa, Mr.
Clean,
Resilience, All
You Can Eat … and Matt? Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) hikers rarely use their real names with each other. Early on their way from Mexico to Canada, most adopt a trail name connected to a funny story or their personality. Trail names help build community and give hikers something to talk about when they meet.
Ididn’t have one when I started my “North State” (Northern California) section hike at Lassen Volcanic National Park. Because I began in July, I joined the trail halfway through its 2,650 miles. That should let me reach Canada before snow sets in, and I can detour south for the California desert next spring. So in my first days of hiking, I felt a bit out of place every time I gave my real name to another PCT hiker. No one rushed to suggest a trail name either, as happens often early on the route. How does one choose a new identity? I thought about that for a few hundred miles.
Along the way, a bear who wandered through camp surprised me but did no harm. A skunk alarmed me more but left me no stinkier than before. On the other hand, the quarter-sized blister on my right heel proved a real problem, forcing me to hike in sandals for 50 miles while my wife Karen shipped my running shoes.
I love Lassen Volcanic National Park, where I’ve enjoyed many hikes, climbs, and ski outings. So it hurt to see results of the 2021 Dixie Fire which burned about two-thirds of it. Fire occupies the minds of all PCT hikers, who know a blaze could end the journey at any time.
But I enjoyed detouring to the summit of Fairfield Peak, and then later, to Subway Cave and Burney Falls. Most other hikers stick to the trail and avoid any extra mileage, but I like taking side trips to see more scenery, and the Cascades are mostly new to me.
Hat Creek Resort provided my first bed and shower, which felt great. All the hikers congregate at such havens from trail rigors. The resort’s hosts kindly tolerate the pack of dirty vagabonds drinking beer, stuffing themselves and charging their phones. In such places, hikers also resupply with food and supplies for the next push, either at stores or from boxes they ship themselves.
Summer heat requires an early start, so in Lassen National Forest, I hit the trail by 5am. The trail rewards long hiking days with quicker arrivals at trail towns, which allows lighter pack weight. I planned on hiking 15 miles a day but I’m averaging 20, and plenty of others do more than that.
Though I’ve been backpacking for decades, I find I still have more to learn. For instance, water requires more attention here than other places I’ve hiked. In the North State, the PCT often extends more than a dozen miles between sources. These days, virtually all hikers rely on the FarOut app to locate water sources, campsites and more; no longer is the backcountry a retreat from phones and technology.
I also found new ways to lighten my gear, shipping home unneeded clothes and trading in my sleeping bag and cookware for lighter replacements. That brought my base pack weight (without food or water) to 17 pounds, which isn’t bad, though many travel with even less.
So in my first days of hiking, I felt a bit out of place every time I gave my real name to another PCT hiker. No one rushed to suggest a trail name either, as happens often early on the route. How does one choose a new identity? I thought about that for a few hundred miles.
I’m losing weight, too, and not on purpose. Hiking all day while eating little takes a toll and I lost more than ten pounds in my first weeks. Pack weight or no, I need to eat more on the trail. I was glad to discover Packit Gourmet backpacking fare; meals like Texas State Fair Chili and Pasta Beef Bolognese help to satisfy my considerable appetite.
After the burned trees of Lassen, I was glad to reach the healthier Shasta-Trinity and Klamath National Forests, even though they introduced the challenge of blowdowns. Hikers must clamber over thousands of fallen trees across the full PCT. Some of these obstacles require hard and dangerous climbing on steep slopes, and a few hikers suffer falls and minor injuries. From now on, I’ll appreciate the efforts of volunteers who toil to saw through logs and clear the trail.
Towns like Burney, Dunsmuir, and Etna gave me a chance to catch up on calories. Ravenously hungry, I stuffed myself in each of them, but still lost more weight. In Seiad Valley, the Seiad Cafe offers a pancake challenge: eat an 8.7 pound plate of giant flapjacks within two hours and get the $16 meal for free. Many hikers attempt it but few succeed. I opted for a large plate of bacon and eggs instead.
Trail angels make hiking not just possible but enjoyable. My new friend Megan kindly drove me from Red Bluff to my trailhead near Lassen. Burney’s
Word of Life Church opens its doors to hikers to shower, eat and even spend a night. I know an old friend in Burney; Sarah and her husband and son graciously took me in. In Callahan, I enjoyed a night at rustic Sugar Creek Ranch, which offers excellent fishing for anglers. In Etna, trail angel Molly drove me to town and even found me a cheap room and bed. Several other friendly drivers picked me up when I hitchhiked. Majestic Mount Shasta reminded me of pleasant climbing memories as I hiked beside it. Some hikers even left the trail to climb it, though I opted instead for new and closer summits, like Buckhorn Mountain, Kings Castle and Eagle Peak in Marble Mountain Wilderness.
I enjoyed meeting other hikers like Arrowhead, Troubadour, Bahama Mama, Turtle, Drama, Shaggy and Robin Hood. But as I neared Oregon, I still had no trail name. Other hikers began to notice my affinity for side trips off the main PCT. That sounded like a fun and fitting concept.
So when I reached the register at the California-Oregon border, I signed my new moniker: Detour.
Matt “Detour” Johanson describes his journey on the 2,650-mile PCT in this series. Next time: Forging through Oregon’s Forever Forests.