COASTAL COMFORTS

TIRED OF THE CORPORATE WORLD, Rex Bellomy quit his job in commercial real estate to open his own business, which became one of the best fish markets in town. But he didn’t start out as an expert.

“I have a love for cooking and a passion for seafood,” he says. “I learned as I went along.”

The neighborhood resident opened Rex’s Seafood Market in January 2006 at Lovers and Inwood, followed by the restaurant a year later. Bellomy says that when it comes to fresh seafood, being landlocked in Dallas actually helps. He brings in fish from both the east and west coasts six days a week.

“In Dallas, we have the best of both worlds,” he says.

Specifically, the fish seen in the case at Rex’s is caught from the coasts of Alaska, Canada, Hawaii, Boston and the Gulf.

Seafood isn’t exactly a staple dish at the holiday dinner table, but that doesn’t mean our fish markets go into hibernation this time year.

What to look for

Shrimp cocktail: Made with Gulf shrimp not the pre-frozen kind found in most grocery store chains — Rex’s shrimp cocktail is a classic appetizer for seafood lovers.

Crab cakes: These are by far the most popular item in the display case year-round, Bellomy says, and it’s all crabmeat, no filler.

^^ SPICY TUNA TARTAR: One of the market’s most popular appetizers, featuring diced sashimi, AAA grade ahi tuna blended with Sriracha and coated in sesame oil.

Gumbo: For some Cajun flare, pick up a quart or two of Rex’s seafood gumbo, one of the market’s most-loved soups, along with the lobster bisque.

Red snapper: Salmon season ends in October, but the red snapper is at its best right now. Bellomy suggests keeping it simple by sautéing the filets with some salt, pepper and lemon juice. Your pescatarian friends will thank you.