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MILK • CREAM

5420 Ross Ave. 214.377.7821 milkncream.com

AMBIANCE: Ice cream boutique

PRICE RANGE: $5-$7

HOURS: Noon-10 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and noon-midnight Friday-Saturday. DID YOU KNOW: You don’t have to get the milky bun. Milk • Cream also sells traditional scoops in bowls and cones.

Milk • Cream specializes in the milky bun, ice cream inside a doughnut, with a choice of cereal toppings. (Photo by Kathy Tran)

The ice cream sandwich in Dallas just took a giant leap forward. Milk • Cream owner Man Ho’s debut in the restaurant business, sells what just might be the perfect redesign of the classic ice cream confection.

The new ice cream boutique at the corner of Ross and Greenville specializes in the milky bun, which is a scoop of ice cream placed inside what is essentially a large doughnut without a hole.

“You get the doughnut, you fill it with a scoop of ice cream and you get a choice of topping. The toppings are mostly dry cereal, which gives an extra crunch. Then it goes into our machine,” Ho says. The machine looks kind of like a waffle iron, but instead of a grid, it has a round indention in the center. The milky bun comes out warm on the outside but cold on the inside. As the ice cream melts, it gets soaked into the flaky pastry.

Sound messy? That’s why they’re served in paper sleeves, Ho says.

“It works because you can put ice cream in anything, right? And it would be good. The key with us is, we warm the doughnuts and when it gets warm it gives it a completely different texture.”

Originating in Australia, the dessert became a favorite in California a few years ago when Ho was living on the West Coast and working in the tech industry. When the Houston native decided to move to Dallas with his girlfriend after nine years in Southern California, he decided to bring the popular treat with him.

Ho opened his shop this summer. So far the shop sells 16 ice cream flavors, including top sellers lavender, sea salt caramel and cheesecake. They also sell a flavor called cookie monster, which is cookies and cream dyed blue. Ho also wants to eventually rotate flavors and bring in seasonal ice cream selections, but he’s not ready to reveal those just yet.

While the business is up and running, the kitchen is still being set up. Right now Ho has to go get the doughnuts and ice cream — which are made from scratch by his friend — off site. Once some new equipment is brought in, both parts of the milky bun dessert equation will be produced in house.

—STEVE DICKERSON

Forgotten Recipe St Caf Rock Cake

When Hans and Clare Van Loenen blew into the White Rock Lake area from Europe in 1991, they brought with them many culinary sensations that delighted our palettes during their nearly 20 years in business.

It began with Sweet Temptations bakery, which became known for its sumptuous cakes and savory kolaches. It proved so popular, they added on ST Café, serving comfort food with European flair like pecan-crusted chicken and pork loin with sun-dried apricot sauce.

In 2010, the couple lost their lease at 9090 Skillman, and the bakery and restaurant quietly closed. But the flavors live on in this forgotten recipe, first published in the Advocate in 1998.

CHOCOLATE SPONGE:

½ cup flour

2 tablespoons cocoa

4 large eggs

½ cup sugar

4 tablespoons butter, melted

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