DELICIOUS

Don’t hold the bacon

Fresh ingredients, many bought locally, and a welcoming atmosphere are what keeps the customers of Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen coming back for more.

By NICHOLE OSINSKI

DID YOU KNOW: When it comes to views, table number 29 is the best seat in the house, according to Carros.

Talk to the people who are behind the scenes at the new Sugarbacon Proper Kitchen in Lakewood and the message is clear: it’s all about the food.

Though the original Sugarbacon is in McKinney, adding a second location close to the heart of Dallas means more people get to indulge in what the restaurant’s chef Andrea Maricichi describes as “New American cuisine with Texas undertones.” But what is that exactly? It’s a little bit of everything.

“We’re not particularly trying to rewrite the culinary bible but what we do, we really try to perfect,” Maricichi says. “It’s straightforward comfort and things that people can really embrace.”

For Maricichi, this is the restaurant’s pulled Berkshire pork chop that is brined and grilled to order.

Johnny Carros, one of the restaurant’s three partners, has a few recommendations of his own. His favorite dishes include the shrimp and grits, enchiladas and burger as well as the pork chop. Getting that food to the table and making sure it will be something patrons enjoy isn’t the result of a few quick decisions — it’s a process.

“It’s just years of operations and eating out,” Carros says. “We really wanted to try a balanced menu to hit all the notes on what you might want when you come in a restaurant.”

As for the process that goes into those dishes, it all starts with fresh ingredients that are brought right to the prep kitchen. Maricichi points out they try to also keep what goes into the dishes local, like the grits that come from a farm right outside of Waco.

SUGARBACON PROPER KITCHEN

However, at Sugarbacon the food isn’t just served, it’s presented. Take the pork chops for example. It’s not just a smoked pork shoulder, it’s enhanced with a salad of granny smith apples, arugula and lime on top while roasted chili hominy sits underneath to create a combination that Maricichi describes as hearty and scrumptious.

Ambiance: Trendy dining

Price range: $15-$50

Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. 6400 Gaston 972.290.0731 sugarbacon.com

“You have to tie everything together, it has to smell delicious, it has to look delicious, it has to taste delicious,” Maricichi says. “But the first thing you eat with is your eyes, before you put the first bite in your mouth, so we really try to elevate some of the classics through presentation and perfection of execution.”

Enchilada’s ‘Tony’s Chicken’

Enchilada’s has been a Dallas staple since it first brought its signature style of TexMex to the city in 1979. For more than 20 years, it’s been under the leadership of Tony Waldrop, who cut his teeth working for the restaurant his family built on Northwest Highway. While that location has since closed, the restaurant is stilling serving up sizzling plates on Upper Greenville and Downtown.

Back in 1999, we shared the recipe for Waldrop’s signature dish, “Tony’s Chicken.” It remains a favorite with diners because of its tangy flavor topped with creamy cheese and crisp bacon. As Waldrop told us, it all comes down to the marinade — whatever you do, don’t skip that step.

4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

¼ pound bacon, cooked and crumbled ¼ pound Monterey Jack cheese, grated

MARINADE:

16 ounce bottled Italian dressing

1 cup fresh lemon juice

½ cup garlic powder

½ cup fajita spice (found on the spice aisle of most grocery stores)

Marinate chicken breasts for at least 24 hours, then grill over medium-high heat until done, approximately 15 minutes. Cover with bacon crumbles and top with grated cheese. Place under broiler until cheese melts.