Champagne explained

Gloria Ferrer Sonoma Brut ($15) California

Never has one kind of wine been so confusing to so many people. Once, all sparkling was called champagne, even if it didn’t come from the Champagne region of France. Today, for a variety of reasons, only bubbly that comes from Champagne can be called Champagne — which, as it turns out, is perfectly fine with producers in Spain, where it’s called cava; in Italy, where it’s called Prosecco; and in the rest of the France, where it’s called cremant.

Those wines, which cost a fraction of the price of Champagne, are markedly improved in quality and deliver value far above their price. Yes, there is nothing like Champagne, but if you want to spend $20 or less, there are literally hundreds of great wines to choose from.

These wines are just a glimpse of what’s available: This cava is soft and generous, with sweet lemon fruit and bubbles that won’t quit. It doesn’t have the edge that many other cavas have, but that’s not a problem.

A Cali- fornia sparkler that never disappoints. Look for a bit of spice, minerals, apple fruit and even a certain yeastiness, which is usually found only in more expensive wines.

Outstanding chardonnay-based effort from Burgundy region of France that has some apple, wonderful bubbles and even a bit of caramel in the back. Not as fruity as cava, but more austere than real Champagne.

—Jeff Siegel

JEFF SIEGEL’S WEEKLY WINE REVIEWS appear every Wednesday on lakehighlands.advocatemag.com

Ask the wine guy

Why does sparkling wine have bubbles?

It’s from carbonation, just like soft drinks — thou g h the p rocess is muc h more com pl ic ated with champa g ne-style w ines an d inv o lv es tw o roun d s o f fermentation, as opposed to o ne f or still w ine. The second round produces the bubbles

—Jeff Siegel

ASK THE WINE GUY taste@advocatemag.com

With Your Wine

Texas pecan cake

Pecans, though popular in Texas and the South, aren’t as well-known in the rest of the world. This knockoff of a Spanishstyle almond cake shows just how versatile pecans can be.

GROCERY LIST

2 eggs

1 c sugar

1/3 c oil

1/2 c milk

3/4 c flour

Directions

1/4 c ground pecans 3/4tsp baking powder

3Tbsp pecan pieces powdered sugar for garnishing

1. Beat eggs in a large bowl. Stir in sugar and oil, and then add milk, flour, ground pecans, and baking powder. Mix well.

2. Pour the batter into a greased and floured 9-inch pie plate. Sprinkle pecan pieces on top. Bake in preheated 350-degree oven for 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Garnish with powdered sugar.

Makes one 9-inch cake; takes 45 minutes to an hour.

The Gattini family invites you to our new location! After a quarter of a century, Momo has moved to a new and better spot. We are still in the neighborhood and we are as committed as ever to offering our guests lovingly prepared homemade Italian food — made in the traditional ways.

That’s what you’ll hear when you give one of these unique made-right-here-in-the-neighborhood gifts

STORY BY CHRISTINA HUGHES BABB | PHOTOS BY DANNY FULGENCIO & CAN TÜRKYILMAZ

If your gift recipients generally respond with the phrase, “You shouldn’t have” (and really mean it), or if you are a pro gift giver aiming to maintain your perfect record, we found the baubles, designs and goodies manufactured locally for maximum merriment.