Worth a splurge

King Estate Acrobat Pinot Gris ($15) Oregon

Sometimes, whether for a special occasion or just because, it’s nice to buy a more expensive bottle of wine. But that can be even more complicated than the complications involved in buying an ordinary bottle of wine. How much should you spend? How do you tell the difference between one expensive bottle and another? Is a $40 bottle that much better than a $20 bottle?

So four tips to help when it’s time to go up market: of a brand that you already like. Oregon’s King Estate makes Acrobat, which is very nice red, white and pink wine for $15 or so. Its more expensive namesake label, like the pinot noir ($30), offers value, even for expensive wine.

This is easier said than done, but it’s also much easier than it used to be. Our neighborhoods have attracted small, local wine shops like never before, where customer service is their reason for being. These are the places where you should be able to walk in, explain what you’re looking for, and get several solid options.

Every person’s palate is different, so wine critics (even the best intentioned ones) can give you only a general idea about what’s what. Case in point: I really like the Pio Cesare Barbaresco ($65), a dry, acidic and tannic wine. But if you don’t like what tannins do (that bitter, astringent taste), it’s probably not worth your $65.

This is the easiest way to make a safe splurge, and Champagne

Delamotte ($45) is not only very well made, but a steal given how silly Champagne prices are. —Jeff

JEFF SIEGEL’S WEEKLY WINE REVIEWS appear every

Wednesday on oakcliff.advocatemag.com.

Siegel

Go online for this month’s delicious recipe and ask the wine guy. oakcliff.advocatemag.com/dining