Delicious

A guide to dining & drinking in our neighborhood

Roll With It

NOVICES AND PROS UNITE AT KU SUSHI, a neighborhood restaurant that offers everything from California rolls to more exotic dishes such as sea urchin and squid. “It’s an acquired taste. We have beginners to advanced. We cater to everybody,” owner Steve Chang says. Ku Sushi opened three and a half years ago, almost hidden among other storefronts in Preston Forest Village. News has spread only by word of mouth, drawing small crowds, and Chang says that’s a good thing. “We want to maintain that small restaurant feeling. We know the names of all our regulars.” The restaurant offers about 70 different rolls, including the basic tuna and the Japanese snapper. But if you’re still nervous about raw fish, Chang recommends starting with one of the cooked rolls such as the avocado.

He says that’s something you won’t find in Japan, where restaurants typically offer only a few rolls, mainly serving straight-up raw fish. “Here, especially in Texas, sushi has been Americanized.” Ku offers a diverse menu for purists and fusionists who like cream cheese with their fish. Chang says the secret to good sushi and sashimi is freshness and straightforward recipes. “It’s all about simplicity.” —EMILY TOMAN

Pictured: Wow roll

Three more spots for Asian fare

1 ROYAL CHINA

You can’t beat the consistency of this neighborhood staple, which has been serving up authentic Chinese cuisine since 1972.

PRESTON & ROYAL

214.361.1771

ROYALCHINADALLAS.COM

2 ASIAN MINT

Eastern inspiration meets western favorites at this Asian fusion café equipped with an extensive dessert menu, featuring fresh treats like green tea ice cream cake.

CENTRAL & FOREST

214.363.6655

ASIANMINT.COM

3 BEST THAI

No Thai lover could miss this tiny, family owned spot almost hidden in Preston Royal Village. The restaurant serves up all the favorites, including pad Thai, curries and coconut dishes.

PRESTON & ROYAL

214.373.8113

BESTTHAIDINING.COM

FOOD AND WINE ONLINE. Visit prestonhollow.advocatemag.com/dining.

ASIAN MINT $$ODFBWB Our Highland Park location, The Mint, offers an array of Asian-fused cuisine, specializing in Bangkok style dishes. We feature farm fresh ingredients, beautifully presented, coupled with a chic atmosphere and friendly service. Happy Hour is 5pm-6:30pm Mon.-Fri. – all beers and house wines are $3; $2 off appetizers, soups & salads. 4246 Oak Lawn Ave. 214.219.6469. The Asian Mint, along with its fused and sushi menus, also offers one of the best dessert bars in Dallas. 11617 N. Central Expwy. 214.363.6655. www.themintdallas.com

Texas wine has never been more popular or of better quality. So what’s the Legislature about to do? Eliminate the state’s funding for wine research and marketing as it attempts to solve a $27 billion budget deficit.

The savings? About $3 a Texan a year for the next two years, which won’t make much of dent in the deficit.

It will, however, seriously damage the progress Texas wine has made over the past several decades. Texas wine is not some effete pastime enjoyed by a bunch of outsiders who don’t like to drink Lone Star and eat chicken fried. It’s Big Bidness.

Texas wine sales increased 6 percent in 2010, with consumers buying almost 240,000 cases of Texas wine from grocery and liquor stores, according to the Nielsen survey company. Texas wine outsold Argentine and Chilean wine — combined — in the state in 2010, reported Nielsen, and four Texas wineries were among the top 100 brands in the state.

So buy a bottle of Texas wine, toast the Legislature, and hope it does the right thing:

($15). This is the best-selling viognier in Texas, outselling viogniers from California and France. Which is exactly the point of the $3 a person tax, since it pays for the research necessary to find out if a grape like viognier will make quality wine here. $10).

Yes, I always recommend this wine. And why not? It’s cheap and well-made, and, though pink, manly enough for any member of the Legislature.

($13). Texas chardonnay has always confused me. But if Texas is going to make chardonnay, this is a good start — unoaked, with lots of tropical fruit and balance.

—JEFF SIEGEL