Nico Sanchez

When Nico Sanchez moved to Dallas from Mexico in 1996, he spoke no English and took the first restaurant job he could find at Sambuca in Deep Ellum, washing dishes and chopping endless mounds of parsley. “That’s one thing,” he says. “When I smell chopped parsley, I remember those days.” It would be 15 years before the Tex-Mex-loaded land of Dallas was ready for what Sanchez wanted to offer: traditional Mexican food. He opened Meso Maya in 2011 at Preston and Forest and, later, a another location Downtown. Diners traded refried beans for black and flour tortillas for corn, and discovered a world beyond the enchilada dinner. Sanchez has earned his place among the most respected chefs in town, but it hasn’t gone to his head. When asked what he does for a living, he responds not with his weighty title — only that he cooks at Meso Maya.

What was the hardest part about working your way up?

The language. It was the toughest barrier, especially when your job requires you to describe specific things. You have to be able to talk passionately.

Do you cook at home?

To be honest with you, people might think you go home and cook, but if a chef says he cooks all the time at his house, he’s lying. I think you cook for special occasions — when you have friends or family coming.

So, what would you prepare for family or friends?

Carne asada on a wood-burning grill, some fresh guacamole right there, a few sauces they always like different kinds of sauces fresh tortillas, cold beer if you drink. You can’t beat that.

Where do you like to dine in Preston Hollow (besides Meso Maya)?

In Preston Hollow, it would be Royal China. I get the beef and broccoli, wonton soup and egg rolls. Their noodles are awesome. The guy stretching the noodles really enjoys it when people are watching him work. He’s full of joy.

What’s in your refrigerator right now? Watermelon, garbanzo beans, chicken breast, eggs, cheese — lots of cheeses. Milk, maybe some orange juice.

What’s the most essential tool in your kitchen?

A knife. A sharp knife. It makes life so much easier.

What’s the worst thing you ever cooked?

I did scallops with a very spicy sauce and some kind of wild rice. It was super spicy and unbalanced. Scallops can be good on their own. That doesn’t mean I can’t cook scallops — I can make them very tasty.

Do you watch any TV cooking shows?

I don’t know what happened, but they started to go all over the place like a soap opera. But one chef that I admired was Al- ton Brown, showing you things at home so everyone can understand. Also ‘Diners, Drive-ins and Dives.’ That’s pretty honest and straightforward.

Any other shows you watch when you just want to veg out?

I’m really intrigued by ‘Forensic Files’ and ‘American Greed.’

What would be your last meal on earth? Boiled peanuts, fresh. That and fresh garbanzo beans are my favorite things to eat. I grew up with them. October to November is peanut season in Mexico. That’s when they’re the best.

What’s the best advice you’ve received about being a chef?

Don’t be afraid. When you feel uncertain about showing something to someone, that definitely has a huge impact on your dish. I had a friend, another chef, tell me, ‘You have to let that go. Everything is going to be fine.’ I still think about it today.