it’s so misunderstood

Bogle Riesling 2007 ($10) California

Riesling is, perhaps, the most misunderstood of all the wine varietals. People who don’t like sweet wine dismiss it because it can be sweet, while people who drink sweet wine are often confused by the various ways that riesling is made. Both of which are too bad, because riesling is a refreshing alternative to the white wine that we usually drink — and it’s especially welcome this time of year, a wonderful hot-weather wine that is low in alcohol and pairs with a surprising number of foods (smoked pork loin, anyone?).

Most rieslings, even those that are dry, have some sweetness. But since it occurs naturally, and not as added sugar (or even high-fructose corn syrup), it’s not overwhelming. In fact, in the best rieslings, the sweetness — even in the most sweet — are balanced by the fruitiness and acidity of the wine. One of the biggest and best changes in rieslings over the past several years is new labeling, which identifies the wine by sweetness. This is a far cry from the old days, when consumers had to navigate German wine terms to try and make sense of sweetness.

In this, fine rieslings are made all over the world, including New York and Michigan. These rieslings will get you started:

This

New York producer makes top-notch riesling, and it’s not even the best in New York state. Look for candied lemon fruit and a long finish; this is an excellent example of dry riesling.

Bogle is probably California’s best grocery store wine producer, and this wine shows why. It’s varietally correct, with some lime fruit and just enough sweetness to be riesling. Not as crisp as the Dr. Frank, but it doesn’t need to be.

This

Alsatian wine is quite different from most, and should appeal to anyone who likes riesling, feels adventurous and wants to splurge. It features an almost olive-oil aroma and herbal taste.

—Jeff Siegel

Ask the wine guy

What are riesling’s sweetness levels?

Tra d itiona lly, t h e y ’re German — Kabinett , which is dry; Spätlese, more sweet or o ff -dr y ; and Auslese, or sweet. They still appear on German ries l ings, b ut new labels pioneered by the Internationa l Ries l ing Foun d ation list the wine’s sweetness o n a sca l e an d are muc h easier to fi g ure out.

—Jeff Siegel

ASK THE WINE GUY taste@advocatemag.com