The Epic Hike

Alasdair Veitch sizing up a fallen tree on the Salt Springs Trail PHOTO BY TRISH JOUDREY Great walks of the North Shore

BY TRISH JOUDREY

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Mike Verbern (left) and Francis Verstraten trail-clearing the Trans Canada Trail from Oxford to Slade Road. PHOTO BY GREGORY NIX

From daunting to optimistic … the trails are beckoning

Our long awaited, three-day 60-kilometre epic weekend hike through some of the most beautiful trails on the North Shore was only two days away. Each of our 12-member group had trained, hiked many kilometres with weighted backpacks, bought supplies, and were psyched to start walking.

The day we were due to depart, hurricane Fiona hit, unleashing her gale-force winds and causing epic destruction. In her wake, most of our North Shore forest trails were devastated. Almost unrecognisable. Walkers were left wondering when they would be able to get out on the trails again, and hiking organizations were faced with the enormous task of rebuilding.

“I have one word for what I see now — daunting!” says Alasdair Veitch, retired wildlife biologist, Cape to Cape committee member, Yon the Move hike leader and 2019 Trail Booster award recipient. “It is totally overwhelming.”

I decided to join Alasdair to see just how extensive and daunting the damage was.

We met at the entrance to Salt Springs Provincial Park and passed the park’s entrance sign, which beckoned us in as though it is any ordinary day. However, only 50 feet into the trail, we found a pick-up-stick-like mess of old trees — some three feet in diameter — strewn across the path and preventing us from going any further. Looking around, I saw a mixture of trees leaning precariously, a few trunks split violently in two, and many huge limbs torn indiscriminately from tree trunks. “It’s not over yet,” says Alasdair. “These trees that are still standing are weakened now, and what hasn’t come down in this storm, may come down in the next with any little bit of wind.” Alasdair tells me that the municipal and provincial parks — like this one at Salt Springs — have access to funding, while the many kilometres of volunteer-maintained trails like many of those in the Cape to Cape trail system and Gully Lake Wilderness area have none.

“It’s going to be a huge challenge,” says Alasdair. “We don’t have the ability nor the capability to cut through these massive logs and remove them from the trails. It’s one thing to be clearing trees on your own property, but (here) we are facing about 50 km of backcountry trails to clear.” It’s the same story for most of the other hiking associations of the North Shore. Sheila Wilson, chairperson for Cobequid Eco-Trails Society, echoed Alasdair’s concerns. “We need help,” says Sheila. “If we don’t, our trails will not open before 2023.” Opening the trails is now the priority of each trail association on the North Shore. Some were hit harder than others and require more assistance. But what is clear, is that they all need more assistance than their local volunteers can provide. “Our goal is to open all trails, including our multi-use trails before the snow flies,” says Gregory Nix, president of the Cumberland County Trails Association. “However, our volunteers are limited in their skill and time. Our work parties, thus far, have progressed less than 500 metres per four hours of hard (backbreaking) labour.”

A Window in Time. Six Mile Brook Trail PHOTO BY TRISH JOUDREY Volunteers remaking a bridge at Meguma Falls. PHOTO BY SHEILA WILSON More sand deposited at Melmerby Beach PHOTO BY TRISH JOUDREY

Gregory tells me that individuals and groups from clubs have been working tirelessly, sometimes with the assistance of a volunteer’s tractor or small excavator. “The job is immense,” he says. “At this time, most of Cumberland County trails are passable with extreme caution, but overhanging trees place a safety concern on the trails. The famous Bunny Trail in Oxford is open and also a short bit of the Peace Trail in Pugwash.” It was not long ago I had hiked the Peace Trail and appreciated its serenity along the shoreline, which was protected under the cool canopy of conifers. I took a moment to reflect on the immense impact resulting from hurricane Fiona. “We have over 1,000 trees down in just the one-kilometre section of the Jitney Trail around Meadowbrook,” says Clifford MacDonald, chair of the Pictou County Trails Association. “We have a processor working there now. It’s going to take time.” Velma MacEachern, past supervisor of the Cape George Hiking Trails, also gives me the same report. She explains that it’s difficult to even assess the damage on the trails because, “they are cut off by fallen trees.” She adds, “We are a mess around here and at this point not sure where to turn to for help.” Leaving Salt Springs Trail, I was saddened to think that access to these soothing wooded paths is now limited. “This has been my church,” says Alasdair, motioning with reverence as we leave the forest. The benefits of spending time in nature and walking forest trails had been keenly appreciated by many during the pandemic lockdowns. People began to walk and explore new trails in their area. Since that time, getting out in nature has become an integral part of many people’s lives, providing both physical and emotional outlets, reducing stress and boosting positivity. Now, post-Fiona, the impact of not being able to crunch leaves under our feet in the fall, listening to the sound of brooks flowing along a wooded path, or snowshoeing through the quiet forests in winter, may be more than we realize. “People just want to get back out (hiking) and walk their dog where there are no sidewalks,” says Alasdair. “Somewhere where they can see the water or smell the trees.” Later, Alasdair takes me to six other popular hiking trails in the area to assess the damage: Six Mile Brook Trail, Trenton Park, Green Hill Provincial Park, Melmerby Beach Provincial Park and Roy Island Trail, and Powel’s Point Provincial Park. With the exception of Green Hill Provincial Park and the Melmerby Beach area, it’s impossible to go more than 100 feet into the trail due to a tangle of fallen trees over the paths. “The storm has certainly changed our perspective,” says Gordon Young, chairperson for the Cape to Cape Trails Association. “Before (Fiona) we were planning hikes and spending our time doing trail development, Adirondack placement etc. Now, we have to be focused on just getting our trails open again. They are now all officially closed.” Three days later, I joined Gordon and his group from the Cape to Cape Trails Association to assess the Six Mile Brook Trail, one of my favourite hiking trails on the North Shore. I was hoping the MacLachlan Bothy — the only free overnight drop-in wooden shelter on a trail in Nova Scotia — was still standing.

I met Gordon Young, Pat MacDonnell, Alasdair Veitch and Theresa Dickson at the trailhead to the Six-Mile-Brook Trail. The first half kilometre of trail was completely blocked with downed maples, poplars and elms, so we skirted past the initial entrance and accessed the trail through a small path off an adjacent quarry road. On sections of the path, I heard, “I don’t recognize this at all,” and “We will have to forge a new path around these fallen timbers.” However, the majority of the trail was surprisingly untouched, the memorial benches were intact and most of the trail markers were visible. Most of all, we were all grateful that we were able to walk on a forest trail. “I’m optimistic,” says Alasdair with enthusiasm. “I think, with a crew of people and chainsaws, we can get this trail back in shape for hiking by November.”

“We haven’t made it to the Bothy yet,” says Pat, looking down from the south path to the brook below. We noticed that the water has wildly diverged from its once, wellworn channel, and was now flowing in new directions around piles of debris and timber that were washed downstream during the rain and wind of the hurricane. “Must have been a raging river during Fiona. Look at that water mark. Must have overflowed its bank at least 20 feet,” says Pat. As the path started to descend, we followed the trail ribbons to the Bothy’s outdoor privy. “She’s intact!” I shouted, pointing to the Bothy. “Not a scratch,” says Alasdair. Gordon and Theresa, who were investigating the trail on the north side of the brook, have now joined us in celebration. “We made it through!” exclaimed Gordon and Theresa in unison. “Parts were rough, but we can get this six-kilometre loop to the Bothy back in shape,” announces Gordon. “It’s going to take lots of hard work and help, but we can do it.” I marvelled at the amount of commitment and dedication. All the trail associations on the North Shore are undertaking a task of epic proportions — getting our trails reopened for our physical and mental wellbeing.

“We are very thankful to our local business and contractors who have donated their gear and all the individual and club efforts we have been seeing,” says Gregory Nix. With more professional help, more volunteers and added financial support, the daunting restoration will be an optimistic one. Our trails need us now, as much as we need them.

Like to Help with Trail Restoration?

Please contact:

Cobequid Eco-Trails Society Sheila Wilson wilson_5589@outlook.com Pictou County Trails Assoc. Clifford MacDonald 902.759.1191

Cape to Cape Trails Assoc. Gordon Young 902.396.6116

Antigonish North Shore Development Assoc. Karen Mcgronicle smkdm@gmail.com Tatamagouche Trails Assoc. Chris Lavers info@tatamagouchetrails.ca or cmlavers@hotmail.com

Cumberland County Trails Assoc. Gregory Nix nixgregalvina@gmail.com

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PHOTOS BY STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE STUDIOS

to forever home

The final chapter?

enovating isn’t for sissies. Rob Christie and Irene Szabla started renovating the foundry in Pictou about a year ago. The retired couple wanted the old building to be their forever home and they set out to do whatever it took to make that happen. As it turns out, “whatever it takes” is a lot. The couple completely lost their privacy, as workmen in numbers past counting took over the space. Almost every deadline came and went, unacknowledged and unmet. Unexpected problems reared their heads. And the price skyrocketed. When asked if they’ve blown the budget, they just roll their eyes and grimace, nodding ruefully. Yet somehow, it’s all worked out. Now on the cusp of having all the work complete, they’re still sane and happy with what they’ve accomplished: a one-of-a-kind home that meets their needs exactly. Downstairs, a large open space holds the kitchen, dining room and living area, with the couple’s bedroom and bathroom off the main area. Upstairs, there are two guest bedrooms, a bathroom and a large library/minstrels’ gallery overlooking the main space. The house has so many interesting features it feels almost impossible to try to list them all. There’s the niche built into the shower wall to hold the shampoo bottle (right below the line of tile featuring more bling than a Beyoncé concert); the overhead lighting that can be changed from warm yellow to bright white and high intensity to low at the flick of a switch; the sleek tap over the gas stove that lets pots be filled in place rather than carried, heavy and full, from the sink. On top of that, the space manages to marry authentically antique industrial chic with modern design and convenience. Looking up (wayyyyy up), one sees the newly stripped beams that have been holding the roof in place for more than 150 years. Once painted a depressing shade of green, they’re now showing off their natural grain.

Rob Christie and Irene Szabla.

Upstairs, there are two guest bedrooms, a bathroom and a library overlooking the main space. Downstairs, the large open space includes the kitchen, dining room and living area, with the couple’s bedroom and bathroom off the main area.

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The high white walls form a pristine background for the building’s architectural features, and are ideal to house the couple’s extensive art collection. In order to bring the beams back to their original state, they were glass bead sanded. This is a process using minuscule glass beads to blast the paint off. It’s more precise than using sand, which can pit the wood because of its lack of uniform size, as well as being more environmentally friendly. But the process left a residue of glass dust on everything in the house. Christie and Szabla had to hose everything, including the walls, down and then shovel up the tiny particles while they were still wet to stop them pothering back into the air. “That was a slog!” says Szabla. Down at eye level, sleek blond wood cupboards and walls and granite counters can only be a product of the 21st century. Tying the two layers together are wide pale wooden stairs with a black metal railing as well as large black hanging lamps and wall sconces. Rather than looking sterile, the high white walls form a pristine background for the building’s architectural features, and will house the couple’s extensive art collection. What are they looking forward to when the last pieces fall into place and they can start on their post-reno life? They’re still discussing their plans. For starters, they’re hoping to do some travelling again, which has been restricted as much by COVID-19 as by the renovations. Christie is also looking forward to focusing on the outside once the inside is truly finished. He has plans for gardens and decks that will fit snugly into the narrow spaces available.

The libray loft (left) and guest bathroom on the second storey.

One thing Szabla is really anticipating about having the job done, however, is regaining their privacy. “I’m going to be so happy not to have workmen in the house at 8 a.m. before I’ve had my coffee.” As the reno wraps up, it’s clear Christie and Szabla are comfortable in their new home. There have been a few setbacks and surprises. The realization that the big picture window they installed in their bedroom so they can watch the world outside also means the world outside can watch them in their bedroom. The way the polished cement floor discolours when it gets wet is rather a problem in a kitchen. The miscommunication about where gas pipes should run left them with a useless barbecue. But Christie insists he has absolutely no regrets about the stressful times that are, hopefully, now in the past. He looks around the transformed space with satisfaction and contentment in his eyes. “This is a calming place.” He points to the large windows high up the walls. “The best feature is the light. It just pours in. I feel relaxed and part of the outside world.” That’s especially true compared to their old stone home with its small, mullioned windows. It’s a very stark contrast. That feeling of being part of the outside world extends past the front door. Christie and Szabla are both sociable and are delighted to have a small deck adjacent to the sidewalk where they can sit and interact with the people walking by. One day they ended up sharing a glass of wine with a couple from Calgary who were passing by. Another day Christie spent half an hour helping a little boy untangle his fishing line while Szabla and the boy’s grandmother chatted. The home is completely accessible. The couple felt it was important to build in such a way so they could stay in their own home even if their physical condition deteriorates as they age. And that decision has some immediate benefits. “We had friends visit on the weekend,” Christie says, “and she’s in a wheelchair. It’s the first time in 11 years she’s been able to visit us in our home.” Recently, the couple welcomed their children and grandchildren for a visit. It’s the first time they’ve all been together since the couple’s wedding 11 years ago. Szabla’s daughter lives in Hong Kong and she hasn’t seen her it two and a half years. The other kids are also living elsewhere. “We had 12 people here and it was great. This place absorbs that experience,” Christie says. Szabla agrees, adding that there was private space for their guest upstairs if they needed it, but downstairs people flowed from one part of the large open area to another without friction. Privacy, plenty of space for entertaining, interaction with the world on their doorstep and a place to grow old. It’s clear that Christie and Szabla have created their forever home.

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