12 minute read
Sparkling wines of summer
Sparkling wines of summer
A tour of the East Coast’s newest bubblies
BY COLLEEN THOMPSON
According to Salvador Dalí, great wine requires a mad man to grow the vine, a wise man to watch over it, a lucid poet to make it, and a lover to drink it. In Atlantic Canada, we have it all. And if "struggling vines make great wines," we have that too.
Unlike warmer wine-growing regions, where grapes need to be picked by midsummer, the East Coast, particularly Nova Scotia, has an exceptionally long growing season. Winemakers can pick grapes in October and November, allowing for the maturity and acidity needed to produce great sparkling wine.
For this issue of East Coast Living, we've rounded up nine of our favourite bubblies. We recommend pairing a glass — or two — with some great East Coast cuisine and your favourite tunes. Find out more in our Q&A with local winemakers.
Jessica Emin
1 Benjamin Bridge, 2014 Brut Reserve
Q&A WITH JEAN-BENOIT DESLAURIERS, WINEMAKER
ABOUT THE WINE
The Brut Reserve is made from the best parcels of Benjamin Bridge’s Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards. The grapes are carefully hand-harvested and pressed. During blending, the final wine is selected from the highest quality barrels before being aged for a minimum of five years on lees before final disgorgement and ultimate release. As a result, it’s a captivating and expansive wine.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
Hands down, the best pairing for Brut Reserve is Nova Scotia seafood. Digby scallops in a savoury saffron cream sauce on corn tacos with fresh veggies and pickles.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
Around a driftwood bonfire on the Bay of Fundy with great company.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“Seasons” by Future Islands.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
An expansion of the open-air wine terrace will enable Benjamin Bridge to extend its season. Last year, the winery offered sparkling wine by the glass to go, which meant you could order your wine and then stroll the vineyards down to the river. An excellent option for busy weekends, particularly when all of the seating is occupied. It's also a perfect option for families wanting a quiet picnic, guests with dogs and people simply wishing to connect with the farm.
2 Blomidon, 2016 Extra Brut Blancs de Noirs
Q&A WITH SIMON RAFUSE, WINEMAKER
ABOUT THE WINE
The 2016 Extra Brut Blancs de Noirs is made from Blomidon Estate vineyards of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. The wine is aged in bottles for four years before disgorging. It's quite dry but very rich and ripe and one of my favourites. All of our sparkling wines at Blomidon are made using the traditional method, where a second fermentation takes place inside the bottle (the same method as Champagne). This method is perfectly suited to our cool climate, where our grapes typically have lower sugars and higher acidity, giving us the perfect tools to craft this style of wine.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
I drink quite a lot of sparkling wine; it's one of my favourite styles. I certainly don't think it needs to be saved for a special occasion. My favourite time to drink it is Sunday afternoon while hanging out in the kitchen with the family and getting dinner ready. I don't overthink food pairings. I just enjoy it with whatever.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
I love getting a glass of sparkling wine while I look through the dinner menu at a nice restaurant. It helps whet the appetite.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“Move on Up” by Curtis Mayfield.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
We're expanding our outdoor areas at Blomidon to give everyone more space to enjoy the fresh air. People have been telling us how much they enjoy the summer weather at the winery, so we will be adding new seating, shaded areas and a fire pit.
3 Domaine de Grand Pré, Champlain
Q&A WITH BEATRICE STUTZ, CEO AND VICE PRESIDENT OF GRAND PRE WINES
ABOUT THE WINE
Our cooler climate, combined with the unique soil composition rich in clay, leads to incredible wines. This wine is named after Samuel de Champlain, who mapped Nova Scotia during the earliest French and Acadian settlements in what was then known as L'Acadie. After spending a minimum of 12 months on the lees, bottles are hand-riddled and disgorged before receiving their final dosage. This nonvintage traditional method of sparkling wine is made from hand-harvested hybrid grapes; L'Acadie Blanc and Seyval Blanc are grown on our estate vineyard in Grand Pré. It shows beautiful sparkling wine characteristics with bubbles and refreshing notes of baked bread and green apples with a crisp, clean finish.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
One of the best pairings with sparkling wine is potato chips. But Champlain’s clean and crisp characteristics paired with fresh and local oysters are a “match made in heaven.”
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
Sitting around a bonfire by the lake or at one of Nova Scotia’s many beaches.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“When My Angel Gets the Blues” by Matt Andersen.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
We added our inn last year, so you can sip Grand Pré Wine, dine at Le Caveau, and now you can stay at our working farm winery inn. We are also looking forward to hosting our popular music nights under the vines in July and August.
4 L’Acadie Vineyards, 2020 Joie de Vivre
Q&A WITH BRUCE EWERT, OWNER AND WINEMAKER
Submitted
ABOUT THE WINE
Joie de Vivre is a new sparkling style made with a process called the Charmat method. With this style, the second fermentation occurs in specialized pressure tanks instead of the traditional method bottles to produce natural bubbles, the same way Prosecco is made. It complements our diverse traditional method sparkling portfolio and offers a new sparkling that is fresh, vibrant, fruity and dry. The Charmat method has a relatively brief time in the tank to complete the second fermentation and keep the wine fresh and fruity. The result is a creamy mouthfeel with persistent natural bubbles and is certified organic.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
All our wines are suitable for vegan diets, and our family favourite is vegan carbonara. Our winemaking has been vegan since 2010 and viticulture since 2017. We have recently been certified to the European Biocyclic Vegan Standard, the first in North America, and the 2021 vintage will have the certification mark on labels. “Vegan from the soil to the glass.”
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
At L'Acadie Winery while enjoying the views of Gaspereau Valley.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“I Can See Clearly Now” by Johnny Nash.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
Sparkling tastings at L'Acadie all summer long.
5 Luckett Vineyards, Traditional Method NV
Q&A WITH GEENA LUCKETT, OWNER AND GENERAL MANAGER
ABOUT THE WINE
Luckett Vineyards is releasing a multi-vintage cuvée of L'Acadie, ranging between 2012 and 2017. There are steel and neutral oak combinations on the base wines, with a long aging process on the lees with zero dosage, which gives rise to a good structure and mouthfeel. There is a multi-year tirage (the amount of time after bottling that it sits on the lees), with the first disgorge at 18 months, the second at 32 months, and the most recent disgorge was at 3.5 years.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
It might sound strange, but chips. Specifically, salted kettle-cooked … or some fresh super briny oysters on the half shell.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
Anywhere with a view of the ocean.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
There’s nothing better than a local wine and local music pairing. So, it’s a tie between “Maritime” by Pretty Archie or “Trouble” by Dave Sampson.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
We are in the middle of a big renovation right now to enclose a portion of our patio. It will allow for a multi-season bistro space at Luckett.
Rebecca Frank
6 Lightfoot & Wolfville, 2016 Brut
Q&A WITH RACHEL LIGHTFOOT
ABOUT THE WINE
The 2016 Brut was sourced from a single block of estate-grown Chardonnay certified organic by Ecocert Canada and biodynamic by Demeter. (To date, Lightfoot & Wolfville is the only winery in Nova Scotia to achieve biodynamic certification and is one of only five certified biodynamic wineries in Canada.) Nova Scotia’s coastal growing environment is incredibly unique. Our microclimate is strongly influenced by proximity to the Minas Basin. An inlet of the Bay of Fundy and the cool breezes help extend our fruit’s “hang times” and provides the perfect conditions for distinctive sparkling wines. The 2016 Brut was made in the traditional method and aged on the lees for 46 months, providing layers of depth and nuance.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
Fresh seafood is a classic. “What grows together goes together.” We love pairing this with Sober Island oysters and verjus. The mousse and acidity also work well with fried or rich foods such as fried chicken, lobster salad on brioche with green apple slaw or creamed mushrooms on toast.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
The Lightfoot & Wolfville Wine garden patio in the summer.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
Live music by one of our incredibly talented East Coast musicians such as Daniel James McFadyen, Joel Plaskett, Mo Kenney, Rose Cousins, Terra Spencer or Matt Andersen.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
The Deep Dive into Sparkling tasting experience. This is a by-appointment sparkling wine-themed private tasting experience with food pairings.
7 Mercator Vineyards, Traditional Method Sparkling Cuvee
Q&A WITH GINA HAVERSTOCK, WINEMAKER
ABOUT THE WINE
This Traditional Method Sparkling Cuvee is only the second traditional method sparkling released from Mercator Vineyards. Like the first 2011 Cabernet Franc, this is a small lot sparkling unique to our winery and style. Notes of lemon, brioche and hints of vanilla and spice with a distinct note of minerality evolve from the glass, with the gentle rise of carbonation from the mousse. True to the Mercator style, the wines that form the base of this wine are aged, providing the reserved yet complex profile of the wine and the dry and somewhat lean style that Mercator is also known for.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
The classic traditional method of sparkling pairing is oysters on the half shell; the minerality and the refreshing acidity of the wine pair perfectly with the delicate flavour of oysters.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
In a quiet setting with someone who enjoys sparkling. Mercator’s Cuvee is a wine that evolves after you open it, so if you can take the time to enjoy it you will be rewarded with subtle complexities intensifying as time passes.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“Under the Sun” by David Myles.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
We will be starting new tours at Mercator and releasing our traditional method sparkling, so keep an eye on our social media and website for details.
8 DOMAINE LATITUDE 46 ESTATE WINERY
Q&A WITH BILL FITCH, CO-OWNER
ABOUT THE WINE
Sea Spray is made with hand-harvested grapes from our vineyards. It’s composed of several hybrid grapes: Frontenac Blanc, Louise Swenson and Prairie Star. The wine has an aromatic nose with hints of oak and green apple, a palate of pear and apple flavours, and toasted oak. We partner with Belliveau Orchards in Pre d’en Haut to produce the carbonation and bottle it.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
Great for Sunday morning mimosas and New Brunswick oysters.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
The patio with cheese and crackers on a hot afternoon.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
Anything by the Hay Babies from Memramcook and Lise LeBlanc of Rosaireville, N.B.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
Our plaza, gazebo and tasting room will be open for tastings and tours, and our party tent is ready to host celebrations.
John Cullen
9 Planters Ridge, 2021 Elevation
Q&A WITH WENDY COLLINS, RETAIL AND HOSPITALITY MANAGER
Submitted
ABOUT THE WINE
The 2021 Elevation is made with three grapes, L'Acadie Blanc, Frontenac Blanc and Muscat Ottonel. All are grown at our Basalt Ridge Vineyard on the southern slope of North Mountain. The name Elevation comes from the grapes being grown at a higher elevation. It’s very Prosecco-like, with easy, casual, delicate bubbles that are great for all occasion drinking. Crisp and refreshing, it gets beautiful floral notes from the Muscat Ottonel, fun tropical notes from the Frontenac Blanc, and acidity and citrusy flavours from the L'Acadie Blanc.
FAVOURITE FOOD PAIRING?
Anything salty with a good dose of fat. Cheese plates, fish and chips, potato chips ... the options are endless.
FAVOURITE PLACE TO SIP?
On the back deck of the Planters Ridge tasting room at sunset, with our favourite people.
FAVOURITE SONG TO SIP TO?
“Ain’t No Mountain High Enough” by Marvin Gaye and Tammi Terrell.
THINGS TO LOOK FORWARD TO THIS SUMMER
We're very excited about many changes happening to the winery this summer. We've expanded our beautiful patio and will increase and enhance our food offerings.
John Cullen
