An Italian classic with an Indigenous twist

Holy Bannock Holy Bannock

Cannoli! Cannoli!

BY CHEF STÉPHANE LEVAC PHOTOS BY STEVE SMITH, VISIONFIRE STUDIOS

We’re heading into those winter months, and I must say this is my favourite time of year to get into the kitchen and cook up a storm. Whether it’s making a hearty soup for those cold winter nights, entertaining family and friends during the holidays or simply indulging in some sweet treats, winter to me spells COMFORT. I can’t help but feel nostalgic and inspired by my recent trip to Italy, where food is all about comfort and joy.

It was the fi rst time overseas for my wife Sarah and me. It did not disappoint.

Our journey started in Naples, a city known for its pizza, most notably the Neopolitan “Margherita” made with San Marzano tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella. This style of pizza gave rise to the New York-style pizza that was fi rst made by Italian immigrants to the United States in the early 20th century. Funnily enough, pizza is not what we were there for.

We had a reservation at Il Comandante. A one Michelinstar restaurant located on the 10th fl oor of the Romeo Hotel overlooking the Gulf of Naples. The menu showcased local, creative and refi ned gourmet cuisine by executive chef Salvatore Bianco. The dishes also showcased his former position as souschef at the world renowned Nobu. The eight-course meal was fantastic, as was our conversation with their master sommelier, who instantly recognized Nova Scotia as the home of our famous Vidal ice wine.

After an inspired trip to Italy this fall, East Coast Chef Stéphane Levac is back in his own kitchen reimaging a few Italian classics with his signature Indigenous fl air.

Herbed Ricotta Gnocchi with Three Sisters Stew. In Indigenous mythology, squash, corn and beans are crops that are considered the “three sisters” and ingredients in celebratory dishes.

The following day we headed to the Amalfi Coast, a stretch of coastline on the Tyrrhenian Sea, located in the Gulf of Salerno in Southern Italy that’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Limoncello spritz? Yes please!

I could talk about how great the cafés were, all the decadent baked goods, the pastas, the perfect little sandwiches, the frutti di mare, the fresh fruit growing on the mountains, yes. But there’s one thing that really and truly was an experience of a lifetime.

We had been making quite a few Instagram posts of our trip and received numerous messages from friends and strangers on how they were living vicariously through our adventure. And then I received a message from chef Michael Howell, executive director of Devour the Food Film Fest, asking if we were actually on the Amalfi Coast. I replied, “Yes we are!” Michael, having been to Italy numerous times with his “Tempestuous Culinary” adventures, was quick to make some suggestions on what to see and do. The one that really stood out for us was a mozzarella cheese-making class in Ravello.

Caseifi cio Staiano is located in the center of Ravello, in the Piazza Fontana Moresca. We met master cheesemaker Biagio Staiano a couple of days earlier when we were simply trying to fi nd the place. He didn’t speak English, so we had to communicate with him via email for translation reasons. Our class was booked. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by Biagio and his wife, who is also his translator. She gave an overview of what we were about to experience, as well

as walking us step by step through Biagio’s rigorous daily and all-manual routine to make mozzarella. The lesson was followed by a buffet of cheeses that we made, some of his cheeses such as ricotta and provolone all paired with local wine. We had a great conversation; we had some laughs, and the evening created a lasting memory.

Biagio’s delicious ricotta that we tasted that day, creamy and smooth, needing nothing, but all the more amazing with a touch of balsamic, is the inspiration for these holiday recipes, with my own special touches from a foraging chef that I hope you’ll recognize. Enjoy and Buon Natale! o

View chef Stéphane Levac’s recipes for Herbed Ricotta Gnocchi with Three Sisters Stew and how to make your own fresh ricotta at eastcoastliving.ca

Black Currant Bannock Cannoli with Ricotta Filling & Rosemary Honey

Ingredients Cannoli 2 cups all purpose fl our 2 tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. salt ½ cup dried black currants 1 tbsp. vegetable oil ¾ cup water

Ricotta fi lling 4 cups ricotta cheese, drained ¾ cup powdered sugar, plus more for sprinkling Dash of cinnamon

Rosemary Honey ½ cup liquid honey Sprig of rosemary 1 tbsp. water Preparation Step 1 (make the cannoli) Place all the dry ingredients in a bowl and stir until well mixed. Add water and vegetable oil to the dry ingredients and stir with a fork in order to form a dough. Using your hands, knead until a dough is formed. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and let it rest for 30 minutes.

Step 2 Place dough on a lightly fl oured countertop. Using a rolling pin, roll out the dough to about 1/8 inch. Using a 4-inch diameter circular shaped bowl or cup, cut out rounds of dough with a knife. When all the dough has been used up, wrap each round of dough around stainless steel cannoli molds and seal the edges with a little water or egg white.

Step 3 Fill a deep heavy bottom pot halfway with vegetable oil. Using a thermometer, bring the oil to 350-375 degrees ferenheit. Fry 3 or 4 cannoli shells at a time until golden. You may have to hold them down to ensure that all sides are evenly fried. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Let the cannolis cool for a bit and carefully separate the cannoli molds from the shell. Repeat until all the dough has been used up. Step 4 (make the ricotta fi lling) In a bowl, use an electric mixer to beat together the ricotta, powdered sugar and cinnamon until smooth. Fill a pastry bag with a star tip with the ricotta fi lling. Pipe fi lling into cooled cannoli shells. Sprinkle powdered sugar over top. Step 5 (make the honey) In a small saucepan, heat ½ cup of honey with 1 tbsp of water and sprig of rosemary. While stirring, bring to a quick boil and turn off the heat. Allow to cool for 5-10 minutes. Drizzle rosemary honey over cannoli and serve.