Eastern Shore

Where culture meets the coast

Pockets of pristine wilderness mix with small-town elegance along the Eastern Shore. Whether you’re coastal kayaking or biking, soaking up historic villages or tucking into fabulous Maritime fare, indulge your “rustic roamer”

By Alec Bruce

Kayaking at Norse Cove Camping in Tangier.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / Alexa Cude

What’s hot this summer

Stanfest is back! The Stan Rogers Folk Festival (July 22–24), which had been “covided” like so many other live events, is up close and personal for the first time in two years. Established in Canso in 1997 to honour the late Canadian folk singer and songwriter Stan Rogers, the festival rightly calls itself “Canada’s Songwriter Festival” and showcases international grassroots musicians in all genres. The festival, which has attracted upwards of 10,000 music fans annually, has won a bevy of East Coast Music Awards.

The Stan Rogers Folk Festival is scheduled for July 22–24.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia

Guysborough County’s spectacular shore welcomes cyclists to its very own Tour de France — specifically, to the Gran Fondo (Aug. 27). This corner of Nova Scotia has an oceanfront loop that connects over 20 fishing communities. The event offers 35, 50, 90 and 120-km rides. That’s something for every fitness level. The 120-km loop was added in 2017 and has since become the most challenging and popular ride. Riders experience breathtaking views of the Atlantic coast as they ride through the communities of Larry’s River, Charlos Cove, Port Felix, Hazel Hill and Canso. The loop concludes with a ride back into Guysborough along Highway 16. The loop includes five rest stops operated by local volunteers to keep you nourished, hydrated and cheerful as you make your way.

For seagoing fun and adventure, the Eastern Shore offers coastal boat tours. Check out sea kayaking through the 100 Wild Islands — between Clam Harbour and Mushaboom — from Coastal Adventures in Tangier. If that’s a bit more exercise than you bargained for, see the islands through Sheet Harbour’s Sober Island Boat Tours and Murphy’s Camping on the Ocean from Murphy’s Cove.

Sober Island Boat Tours allows visitors to see some of the beauty Nova Scotia has to offer.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / @daveandsky

The Eastern Shore also brings history alive in stunning “living museums” like Sherbrooke Village and Memory Lane Heritage Village. At the former — in Sherbrooke, Guysborough County — experience life as it was in 1867 with a working woodturner shop, a black smithery, a pottery and a printery. Wander down the award-winning Memory Lane Heritage Village in Lake Charlotte, which depicts coastal rural life in 1940s Nova Scotia.

Step back in time at Sherbrooke Village, located along the St. Mary’s River.

Photo: Dennis Jarvis

The St. Mary’s River runs from Pictou County down to the sea at Port Hilford.

Photo courtesy of the St. Mary’s River Association

When it’s time to break from the day’s fun, remember that for 30 years Taste of Nova Scotia has been inspiring you to eat, drink and explore Nova Scotia. From local road-trips to explore Nova Scotia’s wine country, to out-of-province visitors on the search for the perfect seafood chowder, these folks have helped shape culinary adventures since 1989. Now, its mobile app makes that so much easier (get it at: tasteofnovascotia. com/taste-of-nova-scotia-mobile-app). While you’re there, check out the rest of the website! This year’s Culinary Trails will once again feature a physical paper passport that can be stamped, and new digital stamps via the app at participating locations. For more details, visit the Nova Scotia Culinary Trails sites, Good Cheer Trail, Chowder Trail and Lobster Trail.

Old friends and new favourites

On the Eastern Shore, Canada’s national parks are on display in all their natural beauty and cultural significance. Check out Tor Bay Provincial Park, where the first trans-Atlantic cable made landfall. Only eight kilometres away is the small, windswept Acadian settlement of Larry’s River. Meanwhile, Canso Islands National Historic Site is home to the remains of an 18th-century fishing settlement and the ruins of battle-ravaged Fort William Augustus, casualty of the battles between British and French troops as they vied for control of the continent. If you want to know why we call this place “Canada’s Ocean Playground,” head

Photo: Taste of Nova Scotia

over to any one of the Eastern Shore’s marvelous, diverse beaches — from the surfers’ delight of Lawrencetown and Martinique beaches, to rugged Tor Bay, Taylor’s Head, Clam Harbour and more. Visit novascotia.com/things-to-do/outdoor-activities-tours/beaches?f=qFzdqiuGLX for the complete summer listings for public beaches in all regions of Nova Scotia.

The Eastern Shore also means happy trail blazing. There’s the Canso Waterfront Trail, which overlooks the town’s Grassy Island Museum & Interpretive Centre. There’s the Port Bickerton Lighthouse walking trail near Sherbrooke, which offers a unique range of coastal terrain maintained by a dedicated group of volunteers and is open to the public each summer. There’s the Taylor Head Provincial Beach Park Trail system near Sheet Harbour: Beach Walk, Bob Bluff Trail, Bull Beach Trail, Spry Bay Trail and Headland Trail. For more information about these and many others, visit coastalnovascotia.ca/ outdoor-activities/

Don’t leave the St. Mary’s River off your bucket list. Running from Pictou County down to the sea at Port Hilford, this stunning waterway is one of the finest salmon rivers in Nova Scotia. Here’s where baseball legend Babe Ruth fished almost a century ago. Visit the education and interpretive centre in Sherbrooke to see classic fishing tackle, photos and memorabilia. It’s also close to a provincial picnic park and nature trails; bus tours are welcome.