The centre of the action

In Atlantic Canada’s biggest city, history and the hottest new events march hand in hand, offering an endless array for visitors in any season

By Trevor J. Adams

In Halifax, summer starts with a drum’s staccato rap, a skirl of bagpipes, the cannon’s roar, and timeless pomp and pageantry: the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo (June 30 to July 3) returns to Scotiabank Centre for another season! The world’s largest annual indoor show of its type, the 2.5-hour event spotlights military and civilian performers from around the world. The 2023 theme is “Oceans,” celebrating the province’s rich nautical heritage. The cast is set to include the German Air Force Band, the British Royal Marine band, Australia’s Brisbane Boys’ College Pipe Band, and the Tattoo Highland Dance Team.

Up next, the Peggy’s Cove Area Festival of the Arts (July 5 to 16) is a must for art aficionados, and a perfect complement to your Halifax-based day trips. Centred in the eponymous fishing village and sprawling out to the surrounding communities, the festival showcases local artistic talent, with studio tours, sales, and more. The highlight is always Paint Peggy’s Cove. From July 7 to 9, dozens of artists will set up around the village for a celebration of plein air painting, with the works available for sale in a nearby yurt as soon as the paint dries.

July also sees Halifax host two of its most beloved annual festivals. This year’s edition of the Halifax Jazz Festival (July 11 to 16) showcases local talents and big-name touring acts like multiple-Juno-winning singer/songwriter Feist (July 11) and Seattle indie-folk stars Fleet Foxes (July 16). Catch the action on Lower Water Street at the festival tent, which also hosts free daily matinee concerts.

The Halifax Jazz Festival and the Peggy’s Cove Area Festival of the Arts are summertime favourites.

Photo: Unbound Media

And mark your calendars for the Halifax Pride Festival (July 20 to 30). The East Coast’s biggest queer celebration features family events, educational sessions, live entertainment galore, and a boisterous parade.

For another beloved rite of summer, join the locals for a Hfx Wanderers FC (Apr. 19 to Sept. 30) soccer match. Head to bustling Spring Garden Road on Canadian Premier League game day and visit just about any pub before kickoff, and you’ll instantly make dozens of new friends. Join the singing, chanting throng as they make their way to the intimate Wanderers Grounds on nearby South Park Street.

The Halifax Busker Festival (Aug. 2 to 7) is sure to draw a crowd too, with waterfront stages hosting free performances by street performers from around the world. See hilarious and death-defying acts by acrobats, illusionists, magicians, and entertainers for all sorts.

There’s plenty for theatregoers this year. Point Pleasant Park hosts theatre al fresco with Shakespeare by the Sea

Look WHO’S BACK

The Marblehead to Halifax Ocean Race returns for its 40th installment, as yachters race from Massachusetts to Nova Scotia in a competition that has run intermittently for 118 years. The race begins on July 9, with the frontrunners likely to arrive in Halifax about 29 hours later. Point Pleasant Park offers a good vantage of the harbour-entrance finish line.

(July to September) and Scotiabank Centre welcomes Broadway in Halifax, with touring productions of The Book of Mormon (July 18, 19) and Come From Away (Nov. 15, 16).

As summer wanes, Halifax Fringe Festival (Aug. 31 to Sept. 10) sprawls over multiple venues, with 55+ produc- tions mounting 350+ individual performances. And then you just have a chance to catch your breath before Neptune Theatre’s new season opens with The Play That Goes Wrong (Sept. 26 to Oct. 22), a farce featuring Jonathan Torrens. (You likely know the local talent from his roles on the hit Canadian comedies Trailer Park Boys, Letterkenny, and Shoresy).

For even more Canadian acting talent, check out Fin Atlantic International Film Festival (Sept. 14 to 21). The eight-day cinema extravaganza always punches above its weight, connecting audiences with established and emerging filmmakers and screenings and events around the city.

YADA, YADA, yada

When the Great Outdoors Comedy Festival announced plans to come to Halifax for the first time, tickets for the Aug. 11 show at the Garrison Grounds were instant hot commodities, and it’s little wonder why: comedy legend Jerry Seinfeld is set to headline. The box-office sold-out months ago, but you may find tickets with (legitimate, of course) online resellers.

COME ON over

Selling 100 million records over her 40-year career, Canadian Shania Twain is the best-selling female artists in music history. And on June 12, the Queen of Country Pop makes a rare visit to Halifax, performing at Scotiabank Centre.

Family matters

Halifax is known as one of the country’s most family friendly cities, with CleverCanadian.ca recently ranking it 13th overall. “It … has plenty of parks,” gush the reviewers. “It’s safe and the community is amazing.” A host of others agree, with Trip Advisor and Today’s Parent also hailing it as one of the country’s top family destinations.

Variety is the key. The city has something for any interest, in any season. There’s a vibrant live sports scene, as major-junior hockey’s Halifax Mooseheads and the National Lacrosse League’s Halifax Thunderbirds both play their home games at Scotiabank Centre fall through spring. It also hosts live music and other events year-round.

When foul weather looms, head to the Discovery Centre on Lower Water Street. This hands-on science centre is chockablock with interactive exhibits and displays — learning disguised as fun to engage young minds. Nearby is the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21. A former immigration shed, it’s considered “Canada’s Ellis Island” — the entry point for thousands of newcomers in the 20th century, plus landfall for thousands who fought in the world wars. Now fully restored, it’s the site of Atlantic Canada’s only national museum, telling the story of the people who built our country.

Exciting EXPLORATIONS

If you’re on a tight schedule, or just feel like letting somebody else take the helm for the day, considering a tour to help you get the most from your visit.

From kayaks to cruisers, numerous operators depart from both Fisherman’s Cove and the Halifax waterfront, offering guided explorations that let you be as relaxed or active as you choose. Popular offerings include Ambassatours’s Harbour Hopper, an amphibious vehicle exploring the downtown by land and sea, and the Tall Ship Silva, a spacious three-masted schooner offering dinner and party cruises. Various operators will even take you to visit Halifax’s uninhabited harbour islands.

Or head inland. Many tour companies peddle craft-beer and wine themed excursions, cycling and hiking tours, excursions to must-see destinations like historic Peggy’s Cove and Lunenburg, art and history themed itineraries, and various customizable options.

In summer, representatives from many tours take bookings on the waterfront boardwalk, or Google “Halifax tours” to discover lots of options.

And just a couple blocks north on the waterfront, is the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, with fascinating exhibits on the Titanic, the world wars, pirates, and all things nautical. And just a short stroll uphill on Hollis Street, the Art Gallery of Nova Scotia features a dynamic variety of exhibitions, a huge permanent collection of work by acclaimed folk artist Maud Lewis, and summer day camps for budding young talents.

On a fair-weather day, Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is an ideal sum- mer adventure. The grounds are open year-round, and from May to October, you can tour the fortress, travel back in time with historic animators, and explore Canada’s martial history at the Army Museum. The huge hill overlooking the downtown is perfect for picnicking. Nearby, Summer Street borders the verdant splendour of the Halifax Public Gardens and is home to the Museum of Natural History, which has permanent and visiting exhibits on topics like Nova Scotian wildlife and human anatomy.

Journey across the harbour to Dartmouth for more family friendly experiences. Dartmouth Common is another great spot to picnic or just let the kids frolic for a bit as you soak in the seaside vistas, and nearby on Newcastle Street is the Dartmouth Heritage Museum, where the Toys Through

Time exhibition will fascinate and appall children (watch their face when you explain that a wooden cup and ball was once as diverting as Minecraft). The museum’s operations also include Quaker House, open seasonally on Ochterloney Street. The historic home tells the story of a group of whalers who settled in the community in the 18th century.

Fisherman’s Cove is nearby in Eastern Passage, a 10-minute drive from downtown Dartmouth. The quaintly restored 200-year-old fishing village offers a peek into the past with a variety of modern activities and family events for the entire family. Stroll the picturesque boardwalk and visit the many shops and eateries boasting delicious food, Maritime crafts, local paintings, unique folk art, and souvenirs.

DRINKS WITH friends

For craft-drink enthusiasts, Christmas arrives on Aug. 10 to 12, when the Halifax Seaport Cider & Beerfest returns to the Cunard Centre on the Halifax waterfront. Dozens of vendors from around the world pour an array of beers and ciders, including many that are typically unavailable in Nova Scotia.