Hike & dine

The best from northern cliffs of Cape Breton to southern Acadian shores

By Trish Joudrey

People across the world have long travelled to Nova Scotia for our music, hospitality and unrivalled seafood. The hidden gems along our wilderness and coastal walks are now drawing more and more people. Explore with me some of Nova Scotia’s most spectacular trails paired with tastes of our local culinary delights.

Cape Breton Island

Savouring the view on Franey Mountain

Photo: Trish Joudrey

Just north of Ingonish Beach, at 49 Franey Mountain Road, the challenging seven and half kilometer Franey Mountain loop trailhead begins. Ascending three hundred metres up a tree-rooted and wooden stair path to the summit is worth the slog to view the stunning Cape Smokey and panoramic coastline views below. Post hike, reward yourself at the local favorite, Periwinkle Café, Ingonish, with an exceptional coffee, glass of wine or a wholesome, locally grown menu choice.

L’Abri Cafe in Chéticamp.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / Corey Katz

The easy, seven-kilometer loop Skyline Trail is a must before you leave Cape Breton National Park. “It’s a place where the sea meets the sky,” says avid hiker, Angela Chisholm. Starting at trailhead, 19713 Cabot Trail, Pleasant Bay, this gravel path and boardwalk hike along the coast, will take your breath away. Not from difficulty, but from the stunning views of the Cabot Trail and rugged coastline. Early mornings, you may be lucky to see a moose. Grab a pre- or post-hike snack at the new L’Abri Cafe in Chéticamp. Meaning “shelter” in English, this is a place where friends gather to share stories and good food. Gluten free, vegan, and vegetarian dishes dot the delicious eclectic menu.

Northern Shore

One of the only hikes in Nova Scotia where the entire walk follows lake shores and Pugwash River estuary, is the aptly named, Peace Trail, starting at trailhead 5683 Thomson Rd, Pugwash Junction. The moderate seven-kilometer, shady path loop meanders through old-growth Acadian forest. Bring your camera for the seventy species of birds and waterfowl here, such as osprey, eagles, and perhaps a mink or two. Nearby, the place for homemade soups, chili, quiche or hot turkey sandwich, is Sheryl’s Bakery & Café, Durham Street, Pugwash. You’ll be hard pressed to resist desserts as the waft- ing aromas of fresh cinnamon buns, pies and pastries greet you upon entering.

Rogart Mountain Trail, 221 Alex MacDonald Rd, Tatamagouche, is a dream hike. The undulating, six-kilometer trail loops through stands of sugar maples and old growth forest. It passes brooks, a waterfall, and every step of the way, signage explains the area’s history and ecology. A picnic at the 1129 summit overlooking Nuttby Mountain is unforgettable. Adjacent is the log restaurant, Sugar Moon Farm. It’s always a buzz of chatter from guests and the chefs behind the long open countertop. The menu boasts local ingredients, including Malagash Oysters, Nova Scotian roasted coffee, organic heritage flour, and of course, their signature product, maple syrup.

Sugar Moon Café.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / Jessica Emin

Sylvan splendour on the Rogart Mountain Trail.

Photo: Trish Joudrey

Eastern Shore

Top of the list is the untamed rugged, wind-swept coastal Headland and Spry Bay Trails, Taylor Head Provincial Park, 20140 Hwy. 7, Spry Bay. Don your hiking boots to amble through wooded paths, coastal barrens, and pristine shoreline. You might spot the elusive pitcher plant, iris or maybe a seal or two frolicking off the coast. There is no better place than the Henley House, Sheet Harbour, to replenish your calories after hiking. This quaint restaurant will lure you in with homey pub fare, afternoon high teas and Thursday live music evenings.

The moderate nine-kilometer, inland Liscomb River Trail loop charms you with nature’s sights and sounds. Rushing river waters. High suspension bridge overlooking a fish ladder and salmon pools. Bunchberries, and May flowers. Trailhead starts behind cottage #10 at Liscombe Lodge, 2884 N.S. Trunk 7, Liscomb. For a killer breakfast according to owner Max MacDonald, stop at Beanie’s Bistro, Sherbrooke. Eat here where the local stamp of approval is on their fresh locally sourced ingredients and quality lattes and expressos.

Halifax Regional Municipality

Pennant Point trail loop is a coastal gem. The trailhead veers off the end of Crystal Crescent Beach, 223 Sambro Creek Rd., Sambro. This rugged, yet rewarding eleven-kilometer trail, is filled with stunning vistas from high sea cliffs. White-winged Scooter, Sheep Laurel, Marsh skullcap, and even American Cranberry have been spotted. Pack your bathing suit and swim at the one of three beaches.

Hiking Pennant Point Trail.

Photo: Trish Joudrey

Pavia, Espresso Bar and Café, Herring Cove, a 20-minute drive from Crystal Crescent, is well worth the drive up the coast. Whether you sit on their spacious deck or inside, their locally sourced, “everything from scratch” menu items will be a hit.

Train Station Bike & Bean Café.

Photo: Train Station Bike & Bean Café.

Exploring the Bluff Wilderness trail.

Photo: Trish Joudrey

Bluff Wilderness Trail is a must for experiencing the beauty of inland Nova Scotia. Located at 2890 St. Margaret’s Bay Rd., Timberlea, each of the four well-marked, eight-kilometer loops takes you further into serenity where you might glimpse a black bear or Eastern coyote. Pot Lake Loop, the first and most trodden trail, winds through stands of hemlocks, mixed woodlands, brooks, lakes, climbing to a stunning granite look-off with views of the ocean. The nearby Train Station Bike & Bean Café, Upper Tantallon, is the ideal stopping place to relax and grab a fresh panini, soup or coffee and pastry before or after your hike.

South Shore

For the best views over the south shore, hike up Castle Rock, East Chester. Access is from the parking lot near the junction of highways 3 and 329 in East River. After a three-kilometer stroll, the trailhead begins at the northern end of Labrador Lake. From there, it’s an easy two-hour hike, except for the last scramble up the Castle Rock summit. The three trails, yellow, blue and red, all lead to breath-taking panoramic views of Tancook Island, Chester and Mahone Bay. Watch for eagles and listen for raven calls on your way through wooded paths around lakes, and over heather barrens. Seaside Shanty, East Chester is a local favourite. Within minutes after hiking Castle Rock, you can be sitting on their sea-facing deck eating fresh oysters, calamari, rainbow trout or sampling their renowned seafood chowder.

Seaside Shanty, East Chester

Photo: Seaside Shanty

Gaff Point Hike, Kingsburg, is a walk into paradise. Stroll the pristine white sand of Hirtle’s Beach, to start this seven and half kilometer hike, 318 Hirtle Beach Rd., Kingsburg. Prepare to be wowed; high cliff plateaus, contorted weather-beaten tree trunks, a secret beach, spectacular sea views, and serene fernlined forested paths. Watch for Lady’s Slipper, Black Crowberry, Sheep’s Laurel, American Cranberry. Rose Bay General Store and Bistro, a family run, laid-back community hub, is en route to Hirtle’s Beach. Sit inside or out and enjoy the friendly ambience while sipping on fresh soup, or munching on a Scotian (lobster) salad, fish burger, lobster roll or pizza.

Yarmouth, Acadian Shore, and Valley

The iconic Cape Split Trail, located in Scot’s Bay on Hwy. 358 North, has seven designated lookoffs— ample opportunity to savour the incredible vistas across Minas Basin and Scots Bay. Rest up at Cape Split’s grassy plateau summit with towering cliffs dropping vertically to the sea below. This is where you can touch the sky. Long Table Social Club is the ideal place to dine and recharge after Cape Split. Catering specifically to hikers by day, they offer take-out or dine-in gourmet sandwiches and salads.

Cape Split

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / AeroVision Canada Inc.

Spot waterlilies, beavers, birds or skunk cabbage—the earliest flowering native plant in Nova Scotia, on Van Tassel Lake Trail, 859 Culloden Rd., Digby. This moderately challenging five-to seven-kilometer wilderness trail network offers look-off views, forest trails, lake, reservoir, dam, waterfall, a beaver of two, and plenty of benches to rest. The Crow’s Nest, a quirky little restaurant, minutes from Van Tassel Lake, boasts the best scallops in Digby. Apart from their fresh seafood dishes, the views overlooking the Digby’s scallop fleet on their small patio are worth the stop.