Stepping out

You can’t beat these small-town Nova Scotian pathways for walkers, gawkers, riders, rollers, and perambulators of every variety

By Alec Bruce

Notlong ago, American author and Time magazine Humorist of the Year David Sedaris wrote about living in the English countryside and receiving his first Fitbit in the mail. “10,000 steps, I learned, amounts to a little more than four miles (6.4 kilometres). That sounds like a lot, but you can cover that distance over the course of an average day without even trying, especially if you have stairs in your house and a steady flow of people who regularly knock, wanting you to accept a package or give them directions, or just listen patiently as they talk about birds.” Or you could just close the door, sneak out the back way, and go for a stroll.

Of all the pleasures that small Nova Scotian towns offer, nothing beats their lovely places for perambulating. Likely, you won’t need a Fitbit to tell you when it’s time to turn around. To go anywhere, there and back, 10,000 steps — or the rolling equivalent — ought to cover it.

Digby Pier Lighthouse.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / Titus and Matt Burton

Prospect Bay

Photo: Dennis Jarvis

There’s the decidedly (and deservedly) famous sidewalks and pathways of Digby, Wolfville, Antigonish, New Glasgow, Chester, Sydney, and Baddeck. There’s the almost-famous “four corners” of Bridgetown in the Annapolis Valley, where crafty locals selling everything from art to underwear will ply you with bespoke coffee before sending you on your way.

Still, if you’ve heard of Peggy’s Cove, have you heard of Prospect? No? Many who have been to the peninsula, with Prospect Bay on one side and Shad Bay on the other, say it’s just as nice and not as crowded. Also, the glacial moraine there forms a perfect path along High Head Trail to the sun-downy sea.

Also under the radar is Sherbrooke in Guysborough County at the far end of the Eastern Shore. Some people might call it a “manufactured village,” owing to its authentically restored 19th-century streetscape and costumed historical interpreters. It’s a marvelous place to gambol and gawk on a warm summer night when you know the nearest movie theatre in Antigonish is 62 kilometres away. Stroll past the old print shop and blacksmiths or take a short hike down to the mighty St. Mary’s River where Babe Ruth once went to cast for a fish.

Historic Wolfville offers an ideal summer stroll.

Photo: Tourism Nova Scotia / Aaron McKenzie Fraser

Explore life as it once was in Sherbrooke Village.

Photo: Dennis Jarvis

LaHave, on the province’s South Shore, is another little-known, people-powered paradise — too-often overshadowed by its more famous civic cousins, Lunenburg and Mahone Bay (which cannot lay claim to owning one of the province oldest continuously operated cable ferries). In fact, the Municipality of Lunenburg likes to brag about the nearby LaHave Bakery’s “delicious brunch.” Located in the same building are the LaHave Craft Co-op, LaHave River Books, and Homegrown Skateboards. Meanwhile, West Cote Bell Pottery makes one-of-a-kind tableware, tiles, sinks, and sculptures.

Discover local talents at the Heart to Hand Creative Arts Studio in LaHave.

Photo: Darcy Rhyno

At the right time of day, in the right mood, Nova Scotian cities can also feel like small towns, especially if you’re from New York or London. Be on your way, down their waterfronts, past their wharves and moorings and stumpy landings. Conjure the past and muse about the future past the wine-coloured horizon. Better pack your Fitbit. This may take a while.