I am a Porketarian

BY JIM MATHIS

Growing up, I had an on-again, offagain love affair with pork. Bacon and sausage made me pledge my undying love. Then an over-done pork chop or toosalty ham would have me swearing I’d never eat the foul beast again. But that was when everyone was concerned that pork that was anything less than very, very well-done would send us to an early grave with trichinosis. I have since learned there is a wonderful world of pork filled with crispy bacon and medium rare pork loin. We now live in a post-“The Other White Meat” era when pork means exotic hams, unctuous sausages and to-die-for barbeque. And this October, which is National Pork Month, I declare that I love pork and I am a Porketarian. As such, I will faithfully sing the praises of porcine goodness.

First, let’s talk about bacon. Bacon is proof that God loves us and wants us to eat pork. I often think the only thing it would take to get a vegetarian to switch teams is a few good slices of applewood smoked pork belly, crispy, but not burnt. Bacon at breakfast is a no-brainer. Put bacon on salads and sandwiches? Of course! But why not add it to vegetables? That will get the kids to eat their green beans. Wrapped around tenderloins or scallops or even water chestnuts, bacon makes just about everything better.

What’s the next best thing to bacon?

Sausage! Don’t get all pious about caloric content and the stuff that goes into sausage; I don’t want to hear it. I know it’s not good for you. I know what goes into sausage. But trust me; it’s better than what goes into a Twinkie and you’re not complaining about Twinkies, are you? OK, then bear with me.

When I was growing up in Des Moines, there was only one sausage that really mattered, the sweet Italian Sausage from Graziano Brothers Market on South Union Avenue. I can still smell that old market down by the river. Their Italian sausage is the barometer by which every other sausage should be measured. You can now get their special concoction all over central Iowa. I hope there are no laws about transporting pork across state lines, because I have brought plenty of this stuff to the Sioux Empire. Since then, I have fallen for spicy Andouille sausages from Louisiana, chorizos from Spain and Mexico, Portuguese linguica and countless others from around the world.

While many people will say they like pork, they probably think of chops, loins and ham; the glamorous cuts of the hog. But two of my favorite cuts of pork are the cheapest—the shoulder (often called the Boston Butt—I don’t know why) and the shank (the shin bone, just above the foot). Both of these cuts need to be treated with care and cooked a long time to break down the tough, sinewy connective tissue. But if you’ve ever had really good pulled pork barbeque, you know how that tough old pork shoulder turns into succulent pigcandy. And a braised pork shank will melt in your mouth and make you think you’ve gone to porky heaven.

But don’t get me wrong, I love a good pork chop too. Last night I cooked up two with a nice grainy mustard sauce. Sorry, I had to wipe a little drool off the keyboard. Here’s the thing I’ve learned about cooking pork chops; they don’t need to be “well done”. A nice

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This is my new favorite way to cook pork tenderloin What makes it great is the prosciutto keeps it moist and you get two kinds of pork in each bite. What could be better than that?

PORK WRAPPED IN PORK

1 pork tenderloin, 12 to 16 ounces 4 or 5 thin slices prosciutto 2 cloves garlic, chopped very fine 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 ounces basil pesto, either fresh or from a jar

Preheat grill to medium heat.

Remove any excess fat or visible silver skin from the tenderloin, then rub with 1 tablespoon olive oil and the garlic. Lay the slices of prosciutto down so the long edges overlap slightly. Then lay the tenderloin on the prosciutto and roll the tenderloin up in the ham. Rub the outside with a little more olive oil.

Put the bundle on the grill perpendicular to the grates. Slowly turn the tenderloin on the grill, so you get grill marks all around, until the prosciutto gets crispy. The internal temp should be the required 140 degrees by then. Remove from grill and let it rest for 3 to 5 minutes. Slice and top with the pesto sauce.

I love pork. I am a Porketarian.

thick chop cooked to medium (about 145 degrees in the middle) is not only safe, but tender and juicy. This is not your grandmother’s tough, dry pork chop.

And a pork tenderloin is just about the easiest protein you can cook for dinner… rub it with some salt, pepper and a few herbs and throw it in the oven or on the grill for 15 to 20 minutes until your meat thermometer reads about 140, then let it rest for a few minutes and it will finish cooking. It’s really easier (and better for you) than cooking a hamburger.

What about ham, you ask? There is not enough space here to talk about the wonders of ham. Not the salty, canned variety, but prosciutto from Italy or Iberico from Spain. That’s a whole different article in itself. Take a look at the side bar recipe to tide you over.

So who’s with me? Anyone ready to join the Porketarian movement? No…OK, fry two slices of bacon and call me in the morning.

Do yourself a favor, eat something good today. And if it’s not good, add some bacon.

Jim Mathis is more than just an evangelist for pork, he also an old ad who grew up with “Pork: The Other White Meat.”