You Say Shiraz, I Say Syrah

BY RICCARDO TARABELSI

Ihave been asked this one question so many times that I thought it deserved an entire column dedicated to answering it. The question is, “What is the difference between Shiraz and Syrah?” The simple answer is, “Nothing.” Thanks for reading; see you next month…

Seriously, Shiraz and Syrah are the same grape; they just differ in nomenclature. Shiraz has a long and rich history, working its way to be the 6th most popular grape variety in the world, and the most commonly grown red wine grape in Australia.

In France, in 1968, there existed only 2,700 acres of Syrah vineyards, in the traditional appellations of northern Rhône. After the wines of northern Rhône were rediscovered by wine writers in the 1970s, plantings expanded considerably. This trend received an extra boost in the 1980s and 1990s, when influential wine writer Robert M. Parker, Jr. started to award very high scores, up to the “perfect” score of 100 points, to wines of some Rhône producers. The popularity of Australian Shiraz on the export market may also have played a role. In 1988, total French plantings stood at 27,000 acres, and the 1999 viticultural survey found 50,700 acres of Syrah vineyards. France thus has the world’s largest plantings of Syrah.

The Shiraz grape was introduced into Australia in 1832, by James Busby, an immigrant who brought vine clippings from Europe with him, and it is almost invariably called Shiraz. Today it is Australia’s most popular red grape, but has not always been in such favor. Many factors, including the success of brands like Lindemans, Jacob’s Creek, and Rosemount, were responsible for a dramatic expansion of plantings during the 1980s and 1990s; a similar trajectory occurred in California; however, the biggest factor in this expansion during the 1990s was a federal government tax subsidy to those planting new vineyards.

In the United States, wine produced from the grape is normally called by its French name, Syrah. However, in cases where winemakers choose to follow a New World style, similar to Penfolds Grange, they may choose to label their wines as Shiraz. Under American wine laws, either name may appear on the label. Syrah first appeared as a wine grape in California in the 1970s, where it was planted by a group of viticulturists who called themselves the “Rhône rangers.” Although most plantings of the grape are in California, there are increasing amounts of it being grown in Washington state.

Shiraz is a very vigorous growing grape. It produces large bunches of anywhere up to 130 berries per bunch. They are long and loose bunches with very good disease resistance. Shiraz does very well in cool climates and thrives in warm spring weather to produce a strikingly peppery wine. Syrah goes very well with beef and other hearty foods. It also goes well with Indian, Mexican, and other spicy foods. This wine is rich and full, and should be served from a large glass at 64˚F.

No matter what you call it, Syrah/Shiraz is a great varietal for any occasion. Whether you need a light and fruity Shiraz from southeastern Australia for some patio wine, or an elegant Côtes du Rhône to go with a great rack of lamb, Syrah/Shiraz is a diverse and lovely wine. Carpe Vino!

Riccardo will be celebrating Father’s Day this month with his wife, Marybeth, and their three sons Dante, Berent (fiancée Molli,) and Jaxon. Riccardo and Marybeth own R Wine Bar & Kitchen, Brix Wine Bar, Maribella Ristorante, and Vespa Catering, all in Downtown Sioux Falls. Contact Riccardo at riccardo@rwinebar.com.