Regulars 11 Editor’s Note 156 Photo Gallery 108 Flyfishing - Fantastic Farquhar Graeme Field discovers that the outer atolls of the Seychelles is a secret and magical Nirvana to the fly fisherman.
134
Travel Bites
160 154
Subscriptions Book reviews - Timeless Karoo
Features South Africa 16 The Kruger National Park made over Our grand old park is undergoing a bit of a face-lift to patch up a couple of love lines and look the five star part in order to accommodate discerning international visitors.
28
The wonders of the Eastern Cape Discover the hidden treasures of the beautiful Cacadu District.
28
Off-road - four better or worse... An African Safari is not quite complete without the 4x4 experience…
Features Africa 36 Botswana Wild at heart and generous by nature, Botswana has a surface area of approximately 582 000 km2. Explore this country’s magnificence with us.
48
Namibia The country beckons the traveller with her unbound nature, wide open spaces and big, big sky.
60
Zambia Step back into Africa time and discover a land of contrasts – silence and thunder, vibrant colour and grey-scales, cool and dry. Zambia is known as the “real” Africa. Find out why…
68
Tanzania Tanzania is home to some of the most incredible tribal diversity in Africa and includes all of the major ethnic and linguistic groups on the continent
86
Kenya The word “safari” originated in Kenya. In the national language, Swahili, the word simply means ‘journey’.
98
Uganda In June 1906 Uganda’s highest peaks were conquered. The style of expeditions is still much as it was in those pioneering days.
Features continued 110 Luxury Lodgings The African Bush for life…
116 Wine for Africa This continent is not famous for its wine aficionados, yet from the northern tip of Africa, near Cap Blanc in Tunisia to the wind-lashed peninsula of Cape Agulhas in South Africa, wine is made and consumed on the continent of Africa.
146 Conservation The Namibian government understands the importance of animal conservation and rehabilitation. They are streets ahead of most other so-called first-world countries in terms of policy and implementation…
Credits EDITOR Jo Kromberg jo@taumedia.co.za TRAFFIC CONTROLLERS Benita Abrahams Laurenda Hagglund DESIGN & LAYOUT Keverne Morland SALES MANAGER Shakier Brenner ADVERTISING SALES Linda Schady, Robin Tremmers, Gerhardt Burger, Michael Keys, Bernhard Kappelsberger, Tyron Fuscher CLIENT LIAISON Laurenda Hagglund CONTRIBUTORS Graeme Field, Fiona McIntosh, Leighton Alcock, Raymond Travers, Dr. Mark Jago, Stefanie Swanepoel PHOTOGRAPHY Jac Williams, Graeme Field, South African Tourism, Stock Exchange, Shakier Brenner, Shaen Adey COVER PHOTOGRAPH South African Tourism PRINTING Tandym Print DISTRIBUTION Local Distrimag International Ryder Circulation Services Magazine Agency Group DIRECTORS Donovan Abrahams, George Cloete ADDRESS TAU Sports & Media 3rd Floor, CCMA House 78 Darling Street Cape Town, 8001 South Africa Tel: +27 (0)21 461 2856 Fax: +27(0)21 461 7580 E-mail: taumedia@telkomsa.net
Editorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Note Hello traveller and welcome to the 13th issue of African Safaris. If you are reading this, you are probably one of my favourite people â&#x20AC;&#x201C; curious, LQTXLVLWLYH DQG DGYHQWXURXV ZLWK D WKLUVW IRU NQRZOHGJH RI IDU Ă&#x20AC;XQJ SODFHV and people. The continent of Africa offers all of that and so much more. 6FLHQWLÂżFDOO\ DQG DQWKURSRORJLFDOO\ UHJDUGHG DV WKH ÂłFUDGOH RI KXPDQ NLQG´ $IULFD KDV KDG LWV UHFHQW IDLU VKDUH RI GLIÂżFXOWLHV <HW WKHUH LV VR much about Africa that is misunderstood and ignored. ,Q DQ DUWLFOH SXEOLVKHG LQ WKH :DVKLQJWRQ 3RVW D ZKLOH DJR HQWLWOHG Âł7KH Africa you never seeâ&#x20AC;?, author Carol Pineau sharply criticises the distorted SLFWXUH RI $IULFD SDLQWHG E\ ÂľGHYHORSHGÂś FRXQWULHV Âł7KH IDLOXUH WR VKRZ (the great return on investment) side of Africa creates a one-dimensional caricature of a complex continent. Imagine if 9/11, the Oklahoma City bombing and school shootings were all that the rest of the world knew about America,â&#x20AC;? she writes. Âł0RVW RI WKH WLPH $IULFD LV VLPSO\ QRW RQ WKH PDS 7KH FRQWLQHQWÂśV ERRPLQJ VWRFN PDUNHWV DUH DOPRVW QHYHU PHQWLRQHG LQ QHZVSDSHU ÂżQDQFLDO pages. How often is an African country - apart, perhaps, from South Africa RU (J\SW RU 0RURFFR IHDWXUHG LQ D QHZVSDSHU WUDYHO VHFWLRQ" (YHQ WKH listing of worldwide weather includes only a few African cities.â&#x20AC;? African Safaris aims to go far beyond the good old African tourist traps and stereotypes and our objective is to educate, inform and awaken your senses and imagination. Not to mention getting your restless feet going! ,Q WKLV LVVXH WKH LQWUHSLG )LRQD 0F,QWRVK WHOOV XV DERXW WKH OHVVHU NQRZQ 8JDQGDÂśV 5XZHQ]RUL 0RXQWDLQV 6WHSKDQLH 6ZDQHSRHO XQHDUWKV WKH hidden secrets of the history of the wines of Africa and Graeme Field takes XV ÂżVKLQJ LQ )DUTXKDU ,Q DGGLWLRQ 'U 0DUN -DJR WHOOV XV DERXW WKH LQFUHGLEO\ VRSKLVWLFDWHG holistic and sustainable approach the Namibian government has taken with regards to animal conservation and rehabilitation. We also feature the fascinating and breath-taking countries of Kenya, Botswana, Tanzania and Zambia. So sit back, relax and indulge in the best Africa has to offer
Bon voyage!
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-R .URPEHUJ The opinions expressed in AFRICAN SAFARIS are not necessarily those of the publisher. Š COPYRIGHT: IMVUSO TRADING All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, without prior permission from the publisher. ISSUE 11
| AFRICAN SAFARIS | 13
The Djibouti Palace Kempinski Hotel receives world-class award Welcome to the award winning Djibouti Palace Kempinski, where an impossible dream becomes a luxurious reality. This world-class hotel is nestled within a breathtaking natural environment, IDFLQJ WKH PDJQLÂżFHQW 5HG 6HD 7KH KRWHO RSHQHG LWV GRRU LQ 1RYHPEHU DQG WKH URRPV DQG VXLWHV DUH VHD IDFLQJ ZLWK VWDWH RI WKH DUW IDFLOLWLHV DQG DQ LQÂżQLW\ VZLPPLQJ SRRO WKDW DGMRXUQV to the horizon of the sea. The development of the hotel continues and will include a grand casino DQG DQ HOHJDQW QLJKW FOXE E\ WKH HQG RI 7KH VHFRQG SKDVH GHYHORSPHQW LV HYHQ PRUH LPSUHVVLYH ZLWK PRUH URRPV DQG VXLWHV ÂżQH FXLVLQH UHVWDXUDQWV DQG RQH RI WKH EHVW ZHOOQHVV VSDV in Africa. 7KH WK 2FWREHU ZDV LQGHHG D PHPRUDEOH GD\ IRU 'MLERXWL 3DODFH .HPSLQVNL VLQFH WKH hotel became the proud recipient of the Excellence Hospitality Award from The Seven Stars & Stripes. The Seven Star & Stripes is a globally renowned hospitality accreditation organization. It is considered an immense achievement and honour to be bestowed an award by this organization. 7KH DZDUG SUHVHQWDWLRQ FHUHPRQ\ ZDV KHOG RQ WK 2FW LQ FRQMXQFWLRQ ZLWK D FHOHEUDWLRQ FRFNWDLO KRVWHG E\ WKH KRWHO 7KH HYHQW ZDV JUDFHG E\ WKH SUHVHQFH RI +LV ([FHOOHQF\ 0U 0RKDPHG 'LOHLWD 0RKDPHG WKH 3ULPH 0LQLVWHU RI 'MLERXWL DQG PDQ\ ORFDO DQG IRUHLJQ dignitaries of the state. The hospitality industry of Djibouti will be set at a new international level comparable to some of the most well-known and admired established hotels in the world. Very proudly, Djibouti KDV EHFRPH WKH ÂżUVW FRXQWU\ LQ $IULFD WR UHFHLYH WKLV DZDUG IRU LWV H[FHOOHQFH LQ KRVSLWDOLW\ 7KH SUHVHQWDWLRQ ZDV EURDGFDVW JOREDOO\ RQ WKH ZHEVLWH DQG WKH SXEOLFLW\ JDLQHG ZLOO GHÂżQLWHO\ KDYH a positive impact in the development of tourism in Djibouti. www.kempinski-djibouti.com sales.djibouti@keminski.com
THE KRUGER NATIONAL PARK FEATURE
16 | AFRICAN SAFARIS | ISSUE 13
Renewing its Nature Story by Raymond Travers Photography by Jac Williams
Like a grande dame of old, The Kruger National Park is shaking her feathers and getting ready for a bit of a make-over, not to be outdone by her rapidly proliferating posh five star neighbours. Raymond Travers looks at her exciting transformation.
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ver since we were kids, Oom Hendrik used to fascinate us with stories about the African bush and the Kruger Park and tonight is no exception. He VLWV QH[W WR WKH ¿UH PDUVKDOOLQJ KLV WKRXJKWV for his next profound utterance. A herd of JUDQGFKLOGUHQ VLW DW KLV IHHW ZDLWLQJ RQ KLV words as if they were syrup drops off an ice FUHDP FRQH RQ D KRW VXPPHU¶V GD\ $OO H\HV DUH FHQWUHG RQ KLV PRXWK DV KLV IDFH ORRNV VN\ZDUG at the Southern Cross.
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18 | AFRICAN SAFARIS | ISSUE 13
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20 | AFRICAN SAFARIS | ISSUE 13
was that management treated day visitors and RYHUQLJKW YLVLWRUV LQ VLPLODU ZD\V ZLWKLQ WKH FDPSV DQG WKLV UHVXOWHG LQ D SRVVLEOH FRQÃ&#x20AC;LFW between the two types of guests. )RU H[DPSOH GD\ YLVLWRUV ZRXOG RIWHQ SLFQLF metres away from accommodation units in FDPSV OLNH 6NXNX]D DQG 2OLIDQWV ZKLFK LV XQGHVLUDEOH DV DQ RYHUQLJKW JXHVW GHPDQGV SHDFH DQG TXLHW 7KH GHFLVLRQ ZDV WDNHQ WR HTXLS PRVW RI WKH PDLQ FDPSV LQ .UXJHU ZLWK new day visitor sites. 6NXNX]D ZDV WKH ¿UVW UHVW FDPS LQ WKH .UXJHU 1DWLRQDO 3DUN WR EHQH¿W IURP WKLV QHZ WKLQNLQJ DQG D QHZ GD\ YLVLWRU VLWH ZLWK VZLPPLQJ SRRO VKRS EDUEHTXH IDFLOLWLHV DGHTXDWH SDUNLQJ DQG D ODSD DUHD ZDV RSHQHG LQ $QRWKHU JURXQGEUHDNLQJ GHYHORSPHQW LGHQWL¿HG DV FULWLFDO DQG SODQQHG IRU E\ WKH ,'3 LV WKH LQWURGXFWLRQ RI GULYH WKURXJK ODQHV DW PRVW RI the KNPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entrance gates. As mentioned above, 3KDODERUZD RSHQHG LWV ERRP JDWH VW\OH HQWUDQFH ODQHV LQ 2FWREHU DQG WKLV SURMHFW ZLOO UROO out to the other gates. ,QVWHDG RI WKH WUDGLWLRQDO ZD\ ZKHUH JXHVWV KDYH
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8SJUDGHG .13 DFFRPPRGDWLRQ ZLOO DOVR FRQIRUP WR FXUUHQW LQWHUQDWLRQDO VWDU JUDGLQJ standards, which means that the KNP guest of WKH IXWXUH FDQ H[SHFW D FKRLFH RI RQH WZR WKUHH RU IRXU VWDU VHOI FDWHULQJ DFFRPPRGDWLRQ LQ PRVW RI WKH PDLQ FDPSV 7KLV ZLOO HQVXUH accommodation options for a wide variety of tourist needs. 7KHUH DUH DOVR ELJ SODQV IRU WKH .13¶V QHWZRUN of restaurants, run by SANParks food and beverage partner Compass Game Park Services. 7KH ¿UVW UHVWDXUDQW WR RSHQ DIWHU LWV XSJUDGH ZDV 6NXNX]D ZKLFK KDSSHQHG LQ 6HSWHPEHU $ GHFN KDV EHHQ DGGHG DQG WKH UHVWDXUDQW LWVHOI PDNHV XVH RI D PRUH PRGHUQ XVHU IULHQGO\ OD\RXW 2WKHU FDPSV 2OLIDQWV 5HVW &DPS LQ SDUWLFXODU ZLOO DOVR UHFHLYH DWWHQWLRQ WR WKHLU UHVWDXUDQWV ZKLFK ZLOO SURYLGH JXHVWV WKH RSWLRQ RI HQMR\LQJ UHVWDXUDQW TXDOLW\ IRRG DQG VHUYLFH LQVWHDG RI VHOI FDWHULQJ %XW LQ VSLWH RI DOO WKLV GHYHORSPHQW .13 PDQDJHPHQW KDV LQVLVWHG WKDW JXHVWV ZLOO VWLOO HQMR\ WKH QLJKW VRXQGV DQG VWLOO EHOLHYHV WKDW LW¶V WKH VHQVH RI SODFH WKDW UHVXOWV LQ WKH VWHDG\ growth of visitor numbers to one of the most IDPRXV QDWLRQDO SDUNV LQ WKH ZRUOG WKH .UXJHU 1DWLRQDO 3DUN ³, UHPHPEHU ¿UVW FRPLQJ WR WKH SDUN DV D \RXQJ boy. We drove in at Numbi and stayed in the ¿UVW KXWV WKDW RSHQHG LQ WKH QHZ 3UHWRULXVNRS FDPS LQ ´ VD\V 2RP +HQGULN ³%XW ZH QHYHU KDG PLFURZDYH RYHQV ´ $ VRIW IURJ OLNH ³SUUUXS´ HFKRHV IURP MXVW above the group. ³6KKK GLG \RX KHDU WKDW"´ KH ZKLVSHUV ³WKDW LV DQ $IULFDQ VFRSV RZOHW DQG , WKLQN LI \RX ORRN FDUHIXOO\ \RX PLJKW VHH LW SHUFKHG MXVW DERYH XV ´ $QG LW LV SUHFLVHO\ WKDW NLQG RI H[SHULHQFH ZKLFK WKH .13 ZLOO NHHS ZHOO LQWR WKH IXWXUH ± IRU DOO 2RP +HQGULN¶V JUDQGFKLOGUHQ DQG WKHLU JUDQGFKLOGUHQ
24 | AFRICAN SAFARIS | ISSUE 13
Perfect Holiday Destination Romantic Breakaways Holiday Breakaways On Route to Kruger National Park Glenshiel Hotel R71 between Haenertsburg & Tzaneen Tel: 015 276 4335/6/7 Fax: 015 276 4338 Cel: 082 389 7256 Email: info@glenshiel.co.za Web: www.glenshiel.co.za
3$0 *2/',1* :,/'/,)( 3523(57,(6 Situated in the Town Of Hoedspruit The very heart of South Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big 5 territory! :H VSHFLDOLVH LQ SULYDWH DQG FRPPHUFLDO JDPH ORGJHV JDPH IDUPV ZLOGOLIH KRXVLQJ HVWDWHV KROLGD\ KRPHV DQG VWDQGV ± DW SULFHV WR VXLW DOO )RU SURIHVVLRQDO DQG SHUVRQDO VHUYLFH SOHDV FRQWDFW XV RQ YLVLW RXU ZHEVLWH ZZZ SDPJROGLQJ FR ]D KRHGVSUXLW (PDLO ORZYHOG#SDPJROGLQJ FR ]D
Phophonyane Falls Lodge and Nature Reserve Swaziland Situated in Swaziland just 70 kms south of Kruger Parkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s MALALANE GATE and 12 kms north of PIGGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PEAK A unique and private eco-lodge set in a place of legendary romance and beauty. Biodiversity rich 500 ha nature reserve with small game and 250 bird species. A stunning combination of mountains, waterfalls, sub-tropical indigenous forest, lush gardens, great accommodation and food and the friendliest staff in the world. Enjoy our a-la-carte restaurant with a wide variety of traditional and international dishes. Accommodation in safari tents on decks over the river, luxurious Swazi beehives and self-catering double storey thatched cottages. We offer great swimming, hiking trails and mountain drives. There is also a fascinating variety of attractions in the surrounding area. We are highly recommended by all the best travel guides.
KEY
Beira
Future routes Vilanculos Inhambane SWAZILAND Maputo
Johannesburg
Cape Town
Durban
Listen to the drum beat as a new dawn rises over Southern Africa Swaziland, South Africa, Mozambique. ,_WSVYL [OL SPTP[SLZZ WVZZPIPSP[PLZ <UJYV^KLK THYRL[Z HUK ILHJOLZ ZHMHYPZ HUK HK]LU[\YLZ VM HSS RPUKZ
Business Class Service at Economy Fares
Email: lungile@phophonyane.co.sz www.phophonyane.co.sz Tel: +268 437 1429 Fax +268 437 1319 Cell: +268 602 2802
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+ 2731 408 1115
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