The African Adventurer Magazine | Issue 1 by African Sporting Publications

Volume 1 First Quarter 2016

The Zambezi A Place of Gold

Painted Dogs Painted Showcasing Zimbabweâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Lin Barrie

01 9

780797

469877

Have Africa

Will travel

Enjoy an Amanzi Lodge Getaway without leaving Harare Amanzi Lodge offers the perfect weekend escape. Fine dining, excellent wines, a tennis court, pool, gym and a first-class spa ~ all without travelling too far from home. With a top, 5 star barrel-rating, sixteen luxurious private rooms ~ each decorated in the theme of an African country and set in immaculate landscaped gardens ~ you couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wish for a better break. Our attention really is in the detail ~ everything at Amanzi has been put together with our unique African pizazz! T & Cs apply 1 Masasa Lane, Kambanji, Harare, Zimbabwe Tel: +263 4 499257 â&#x20AC;˘ Mobile: 0772 367 495 Email: lodge@amanzi.co.zw

w w w . a m a n z i . c o . z w

From the Publisher... Have you ever watched a storm in Africa? Bruised purple clouds, laden and pregnant as they roll across the plains. Big fat drops which make an audible ‘plop’ as they splash to the ground, set against a sun-lit backdrop. In a moment, tendrils of steam begin to rise, filling one’s nostrils with a smell only Mother Africa has. The sweet aroma of dry grass wet with hanging diamonds of moisture, the hot steamy earth sucking hungrily at the rain. Carried on the breeze, myriad of spicy fragrances emanate from the earth and lay testament to the passage of time and wildlife, the endless cycle of grazing, fertilizing and life-giving rain which is the essence of the African savanna. It is truly something special and memorable, seldom forgotten and always inspiring. Drought is an ever present feature of Africa. The continent’s arid cycles punctuated with the life giving respite of rains herald new beginnings. Regular visitors are left in awe at the transformations which occur in these arenas as desert-like plains distorted by heat waves burst forth. Where before animals magically floated on rippled mirages teasing the imagination, swathes of green flush in crisp hues often splashed with specks of colour as wild flowers bloom. It is simply breathtaking! As our African rains are the harbinger of fresh beginnings, this exciting publication ushers in a new chapter in our almost 30 year publishing history. From humble beginnings our outdoor publications have stood the test of time garnering an almost religious following. But our work is not done, and this latest offering will fill a niche well suited to our expertise. Africa’s wilderness with all it encompasses, and especially the way visitors and tourists experience it, has changed too. Today’s traveler wants to take more than a

memory-stick of photographs home. Fully experiencing every aspect of their wilderness adventure, discerning visitors prefer to feel connected to the places they visit, the people they meet, and even the animals they see. It is not enough to be driven around like a herd of sheep anymore. Through our pages, we hope to bring those connections to our readers, enhancing every nuance of your adventure on the Dark Continent. It is said that knowledge becomes power only when we put it into use, and it makes sense that understanding all that surrounds us will enhance any bush experience. The Panchatantra explains that “ Knowledge is the true organ of sight, not the eyes.” We hope the gems you find in these pages, will indeed sharpen your vision during your African adventure.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Kneeling to Royalty ÂŠ Scott N. Ramsay

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Cover Story Year in the Wild © Scott N. Ramsay

“In the end, our society will be defined not only by what we create, but what we refuse to destroy.” – John Sawhill

“I took this photograph of experienced wildlife guide Stretch Ferreira and guests with a wild bull elephant in Mana Pools National Park in Zimbabwe. The trust that exists between this elephant and Stretch is exceptional. This photo shows a group of visitors kneeling before an elephant, but to me it also shows a group of human beings paying respect to one of Earth’s wisest animals.” Scott explains when asked about the cover picture... An office escape turned into three years of wilderness when South Africa’s photographer Scott N. Ramsay took a break from his succesful career in Johanessburg... During what was meant to be a “Year in the Wild”, Scott travelled South Africa’s wilderness

and slowly ended up visiting her neighbours which is how he came to be in the presence of one of the legendary bull elephants of Mana Pools, Zimbabwe. Scott didn’t stop at one year... After three years he finds himself even more determined to make others aware of Africa’s natural treasures. In Scott’s words; “My journey started out as a dream, an adventure, but it has become my vocation. I’m sure that if other people can see for themselves what I have seen, then they too will be inspired to care more for the few pockets of wilderness that remain.” View more of Scott’s work at: www.lovewildafrica.com and his blog: www.yearinthewild.com.

Content 13 Painted Dogs, Painted

Zimbabwe’s Lin Barrie writes of her passion for wild dogs and gives us inside information on her art.

Elephants, Oranges & Raw Africa Certain areas along the Zambezi, a particular remote airstrip I remember from my days of flying all over Africa, a deserted beach in Mozambique and the Namib desert are some that work for me. I am sure...

Ubuntu

The Skype Effect

Someone once told me that if a place is left vacant in the world, it becomes derelict and desertified, but if a place is left vacant in Africa, Africa takes it back…forests grow around it, rivers meander and rocks fall. And, when reaching the top of the descent into the Batoka Gorge, we had no idea how far down the river lay, or what we might encounter on the way there. It was at this point in time, already a good two hours into our trip, having driven out from Victoria Falls on approximately 100km of dirt road...

The Zambezi - A Place of Gold

We search to find what could have inspired in Europeans the belief that Mwenemutapa held the legendary mines of King Solomon...

...the more we can have, the more we want. So, is Skype having a bad effect on travelling?

46 Regulars Traveller’s Smile 27 • The Adventure Gallery 32 • Survivor 101 35 • The Taste of Africa - Potjie 37 • Focus Species - Impala 38 • Discovered The African Honey Bee 43 • African Explorers - Cape to Cairo 44 • Have Africa Will Travel 46 • Travel Requirements 51 • Campfire Tales 55

Bless the Rains Down in Africa ÂŠ Ant Williams

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Focus In this issue, we focus on the mighty Zambezi - in the first of many themes to follow in coming issues. The Zambezi River flows across Africa from west to east for 2 700km, passing through six countries, a major flood-plain, the world’s widest set of falls (Victoria Falls), and two major impoundments - Kariba and Cahora Bassa - before winding its way to the Indian Ocean. It is the fourth largest river system in Africa, with extensive protected and wildlife areas in all countries for much of its course. One of the world’s most ancient rivers - attested to by the prehistoric dinosaur fossils and foot prints frozen there in time - the Zambezi Valley is part of the Great Rift Valley which transects the African continent. It is also a tremendously spiritual place, and even if one has not originated close to, or in the cradle of her arms, it is impossible to visit “The Valley” without some part of your soul being awakened. Aside from this ethereal quality, the Zambezi and its valley are imbued with some of the richest concentrations of wildlife on the Dark Continent, and a rugged wilderness which is as rare as it is beautiful. Once imagined to be a possible highway into Africa’s interior, the river was explored and mapped by great men with vision, among them Africa’s most famous explorer and missionary - Dr. David Livingstone - who walked its course from Barotseland in the north, to the mouth on the east coast with modern day Mozambique, and back! Thomas Baines, another African explorer, writer and artist, envisaged the trip from the Falls to the coast using a steam boat in the early 1860’s, though illness prevented this. In 1903 one H. De Laessoe began an expedition from the Gwaai river in August, arriving at the coast in October of the same year. His expedition not only mapped the area, but he also captured in black and white photographic plates, significant features of the river, many of which are today buried beneath the flooded

The African Adventurer Magazine is alive on all platforms! Download the digital magazine & view videos on the cloud magazine on every device. www.africanadventurer.com

waters of both Kariba and Cahora Bassa dams. These treacherous, rock strewn and violent rapids dashed his, and others’ hopes of ever navigating the great river. Though the river proved not

to be the navigable highway the visionaries hoped, it nonetheless has played a major role in southern Africa’s history and development, and today stands as a shining jewel in the crown of Africa.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF • Anthony M. Williams • ant@mag-set.com EDITOR • Renée Mostert • africanadventurer@mag-set.com SUBSCRIPTION ENQUIRIES • A: P O Box 6204, Harare, Zimbabwe • T: +263 (4) 293 4438 or +263 (8683) 005 261 • C: +263 (712) 212 963 • E: info@mag-set.com ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES • A: P O Box 6204, Harare, Zimbabwe • T: +263 (4) 293 4438 or +263 (8683) 005 261 • C: +263 (712) 212 963 • E: ads@mag-set.com LAYOUT, DESIGN & PUBLISHING: Mag-Set Publications (Pvt) Ltd • A: P O Box 6204, Harare, Zimbabwe • T: +263 (4) 293 4438 or +263 (8683) 005 261 • C: +263 (712) 212 963 E: info@mag-set.com COPYRIGHT • Copyright of all material is expressly reserved and nothing may be reproduced in part or whole without the express permission of the publishers. While every care is taken to ensure the accuracy of editorial content the publishers do not accept responsibility for omissions, errors or their consequences. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publishers, their distributors or representatives, the editor or the represented body. GENERAL • The editor welcomes contributions submitted for publication in The African Adventurer magazine. All work submitted is considered to be done so on a voluntary basis without expectation of financial compensation. Contributors maintain ownership of their work and may publish it elsewhere. By submitting material for publication, authorisation is given to edit for content, clarity, or brevity. Although all possible care is taken with material submitted, the editor cannot take responsibility for lost articles and photographs. The African Adventurer magazine reserves the right to all material used, and the right to re publish such material at their discretion. The publishers reserve the right to deny the publication of any work for any reason.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

The Zambezi A Place of Gold

A recently published article on the Zambezi nicknamed her “Besi” – not a common name used in this part of the world. People here call it the Zam if we’re being technical about nicknames, but what few who live around the Zambezi know is that scientists believe the Zambezi Valley may be among the oldest of places in the world…

The fourth-longest river in Africa, the longest east flowing river in Africa and the largest flowing into the Indian Ocean from Africa, the Zambezi River basin is 1,390,000 square kilometres (540,000 sq mi), slightly less than half that of the Nile. The nearly 2700-kilometrelong river (1,599 mi) rises in Zambia and flows through eastern Angola, along the eastern border of Namibia and the northern border of Botswana, then along the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe to Mozambique, where it empties into the Indian Ocean. Quite recently, the first dinosaur

trackway along the Zambezi was discovered by a hunter and surveyed by Tim Broderick in 1984. “Fourteen clear footprints are exposed on a resistant sandstone pavement which appears from beneath alluvium on the north bank of the river…”, he wrote in notes he published in 1985. The prints are 40cm long, 33cm wide and 2cm deep. An analysis of this track indicates a bipedal dinosaur. The prints show three distinct protruding toes which were clawed. It is speculated that this “Ntumbe” dinosaur is

likely to be a very large theropod dinosaur, very likely an Allosaurus. The Allosaurus is guestimated to be 180 million years old and a predecessor to pop science’s Tyrannosaurus Rex. The reason the remains have been so well preserved in the Chewore River and in the Zambezi Valley, Steve Edwards (a local expert on our dinosaur history) says, is that when tectonic-rift movements during the earth’s evolution changed the course of rivers, vast amounts of silt and sand were

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Above: An early explorer’s map of Southern Africa Below: Africa’s inhabitants as depicted by early visitors.

dumped on top of organic matter, preserving it. It is only today, as rock is eroded by wind and water, or lake waters drop as they have at Kariba, that the treasure is revealed. If you have ever stood in the Zambezi Valley close to twilight time, you too will feel the prehistory. With the whooping of hyenas and the distant roar of lions, it wouldn’t be too

surprising if a dinosaur walked out of that bush as wild Africa doesn’t seem that different from Jurassic times. One hundred and eighty million years old… fast-track the dinosaurs becoming extinct, whichever evolution or creation theory you believe in and look at the Zambezi Valley from the eyes of the people

who lived there a little later, in the land of plenty between the Limpopo river in the south, and the Zambezi in the north. The origins of the ruling dynasty at Mutapa go back to some time in the first half of the 15th century. According to oral tradition, the first “Mwene” was a warrior prince named Nyatsimba Mutota from the

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

10 Kingdom of Zimbabwe sent to find new sources of salt in the north. Legend has it that Prince Mutota found his salt among the Tavara, a Shona speaking subdivision, who were prominent elephant hunters. The Prince made short work of conquering these people and with his successors expanded his kingdom to what became known by the Portuguese explorers as the Monomotapa (Shona: Mwene Mutapa) Empire, which encompassed the Zambezi through to the Limpopo river, to the Indian Ocean in what is today modern Mozambique. The empireâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tentacles reached out to encompass what are today the modern states of Zimbabwe, South Africa, Lesotho, Swaziland, Mozambique and parts of Namibia and Botswana; stretching well into modern Zambia. It even influenced the rise and fall of the ancient settlement of Zanzibar. Its founders are descendants of the builders who constructed Great Zimbabwe. These states had one thing in common: they were built on and around the Zambezi River. It is said that the Monomotapa Empire

controlled the ivory and gold trade from the interior to the south eastern coast of Africa. Every trade route from the docks of Tanzania to the bays in Mozambique had to cross the Empire, or one of the minor rulers of it, to get to the interior. Thus, the Empire thrived because they imposed a tax of 50% on everything that crossed their borders. Speaking with the Zimbabweans of today, it seems tax laws have not changed much. Asian and Arabic goods could be found in abundance in the kingdom. The Great Zimbabwe people, also overtaken by the Monomotapa Empire, mined minerals like gold, copper and iron, bringing an ancient myth to the fore. As the trade routes became more and more accessible, gold from the empire, inspired in Europeans a belief that Mwenemutapa held the legendary mines of King Solomon, referred to in the Bible as Ophir. The belief that the mines were inside the Mwenemutapa kingdom in southern Africa was one of the factors that led to the Portuguese exploration of the

Above Left: The wealth of gold available on the surface that led many to believe in the Legend of King Solomonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mines. Above Right: A dhow approaching the exotic city of Zanzibar. The trade of which was closely linked to the Kingdom of Monomatapa. Below: The ruins of Great Zimbabwe, left by the Prince of Monomatapa in order to find a source of salt. Having found the salt and new and fertile lands, he stayed put and the empire grew into one of the greatest civilizations of all time, rich in gold and spices from the world over. Opposite Right: The memorial statue of David Livingstone at the top with a foreground of the Falls.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

11 hinterland of Sofala (on the coast of Mozambique) in the 16th century, and this contributed to early development of Mozambique, as the legend was widely used among the less educated populace to recruit colonists. Some documents suggest that most of the early colonists dreamed of finding the legendary city of gold in southern Africa, a belief mirroring the early South American colonial search for El Dorado and quite possibly inspired by it. Early trade in gold came to an end as the mines ran out, and the deterioration of the Mutapa state marked the end of the financial and political support for further developing sources of gold. If there is any truth in the legend of the gold on both continents, there has been evidence showing how on the supercontinent of Pangea (when all the continents were linked together) Southern Africa was but a step away from Argentina… we’re talking about dinosaur steps here. Through the last four or so centuries, the Zambezi Valley was central to slave trade and slow colonization, through British, French, Dutch, German and Portuguese influences, until a missionary addressed an audience of young men in Cambridge’s Senate House. He impressed upon them an idealistic mission in Africa worthy of their attention. He told them he would return to Africa in the hope of opening a path into the continent ‘for commerce and Christianity’. This was the speech of one David Livingstone before his famous visit to the Zambezi whence he came across the “Smoke that Thunders” (Mosi-oa-Tunya) later named Victoria Falls for David’s Queen of England. He wrote the quote that you can still feel today if you care to cast your vision over the edge; “Scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”. No matter how many times one reads the story of the good doctor coming across the Victoria Falls, it does not cease to give the reader cold shivers – imagine being the first foreigner to walk to the edge of the abyss where water tumbles treacherously into the gorge at a rate of 625 million litres every minute! Based on its width of 1,708 metres (5,604 ft) and height of 108 metres (354 ft), the Victoria Falls is the world’s largest sheet of falling water. Quite recently though, the Kariba and Cahora Bassa Dams were erected to harness hydroelectric power for the surrounding countries changing the landscapes of the Zambezi river forever. Nonetheless, whether it is paleontological, geological, anthropological or simply natural, there is gold in that valley. Stand there for a few minutes in silence and you will feel it in the rich air, smell it on in the potato bush fragrance wafted along, hear it in the fish eagle cry and see it in every dust-filled sunset. If you’re going treasure hunting, here is gold.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Painted Dogs, Painted Africa - Through the Eyes of Lin Barrie

African wild dogs! My passion... Unique to Africa, and endangered, these special predators are resident in only 9.4% of their historical range of sub Saharan Africa. Given that wild dogs are a wide ranging species that require plenty of space, large expanses of protected land such as trans-frontier conservation initiatives are fundamental for their future conservation. The Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Conservation Area (GLTFCA) encompasses parts of Zimbabwe, South Africa and Mozambique and hosts globally significant populations of African wild dogs. Habitat loss, wire snaring, disease (rabies), competition with lions and human persecution threaten wild dogs throughout their range. Gonarezhou National Park is part of this eco system, and we at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge are

privileged to have access to this pristine wilderness, as Gonarezhou is a perfect wilderness environment for these endangered animals and their pups. The Gonarezhou Predator Project, managed by The African Wildlife Conservation Fund (AWCF) is dedicated to wildlife conservation in Africa with a focused goal of safe-guarding endangered African wild dog populations in the Zimbabwean Lowveld. Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge situated on the Save River boundary of the Gonarezhou National Park is seeing increased sightings of wild dogs on game drives, and it is through the efforts of such organisations as AWCF, Frankfurt Zoological Society and Zimbabwe National Parks, that these endangered animals are doing well in the Gonarezhou National Park.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

“Golden Dog Days” – acrylic on canvas – 126 x 400 cm – by Lin Barrie, is a huge 4 meter long canvas, 126cm deep, worked on by various people over a few years! Kelli Barker, (my make up artist daughter) and her friend Guy Cockroft, originally painted the metallic background on the canvas, for a backdrop to one of Kelli’s body paintings for the “While We Wait” photographic exhibition by French photographer Eric Gauss. I took that inspiration further, adding to the background and showing painted wolves at play... metallic gold and silver is used in the background. Part proceeds from the sale of this artwork will go to the two Zimbabwean African wild dog projects, AWCF and PDC. Left: Yearlings Playing - Christmas day and Wild dogs... Posted on December 27, 2012 by wineandwilddogs Woke up early Christmas morning and sat on our verandah, listening to the Woodland kingfishers. Suddenly there they were, 11 wild dogs trotting rapidly towards our waterhole, staring cautiously up at us as we sat, breathless, coffee cups poised. Relaxing, the dogs bunched up at the water hole and slurped happily. What a Christmas gift! The adults flopped down under mopani trees as the yearlings bounced and chased each other over and around a small termite hill. Below: One of my paintings , which hangs in the dining room at Chilo Lodge...

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Gentle Killers © Melanie Anderson Gardener

Fact #1 inted wolf,” which aptly deshscyritabeilss

have bu ans “pa ild dog me Wild dogs w s. e n a h g. The ic tc a fr p A hile huntin for the w d yellow t e n c a m ta a k n n c o la n c b ti , a r having ack in rown The L minck, afte aena keep the p t of dark b a m to o e c g T l a u d fl a rf a ra s lo the co ay serve a 20 by Coen . Wrongly named Hy tips that m fically in 18 ti n ie amed mbique sc with white d e 27, and ren like’. st of Moza 8 a t describ 1 o rs c fi in e s s a th e w k m s o lf ro specie taken fro eaning ‘wo y Joshua B a specimen ykaios), m s a canid b (l a k d l picta, e a e is re in n g examined G g ri o e o the ter rec n is th m o la o a s c fr a y d w L e f v it o , ri e omic ord hd picta s on Taxon The root w n for ‘painted’), whic le r. u lo R o l a ic n tr o ti n ti a Lycao ictus (La h the Intern ic epithet p formity wit n o c in The specif . , it re tu turned to Nomencla was later re

Below: Half grown pups are nurtured and protected within the pack... this is a pup on the left...

Left: Gorgeous coats , a painter’s dream in gold, black and white!

African wild dogs are not generally aggressive to man, very unassuming in fact... I call them ‘gentle killers’ in homage to one of the first amazing books written about them by Jane Goodall and Hugo Van Lawick, so many years ago, called “Innocent Killers”. What an amazing book it was to read, documenting years of research, and personalizing three fascinating predators: African wild dogs, Spotted Hyenas and Golden Jackals. These photos, taken by friend Melanie Anderson Gardener on a game drive near to Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge, with guide Thomas Mutombeni, really capture their mood, relaxed yet very inquisitive...

I am thrilled to note that each of these photos shows a different pup... plenty of new blood to carry the fortunes of the pack! There is another pup... E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Fact #2 st efficient hunters and their

are the mo eds of more s, wild dogs n reach spe re ca o y n iv e rn th t, ca n e ri a sp f the dogs ru Of the larg escapes. In ted, some o e ly er rg re ad ta ra le is y e y re th p re r when when p targeted ve d o g an in r, k u o ta , h miles hind es per to about 35 rs follow be e p than 44 mil th u o s d e e il e h w sp ession is, at animal, lack of aggr nces like th te ta is close to the le d p g m n co lo a vious re is can run hunting the re is little ob e e tires. They il th h s, w al y, im gl g rituals, cial an terestin rate greetin ke other so o li b per hour. In n la u e d e av an h r, tions hey othe hierarchy. T ir large range of vocaliza that toward each al ci so ir e e within th contact call whining. Th intimidation d a bell like ittering and an tw l y w mony b o h d g ie n , a rallyi r playful cere e accompan m th ar ra al f a o e k av hunting ort bar they h h hunt. The ac includes a sh ver long distances, and e s te ia it for the and in do rgitate meat on purpose can be hear gu m re m y e co th a r em fo n where that bonds th e pack return to the de th e and pups. f o al members nursing fem

Right: And another... note the differences in coat markings which make these spectacular animals so easily identifiable in the field... This pup is eagerly following an adult, anticipating the late afternoon hunt...

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Above: A Sketch - On the Hunt...

Fact #3

Wild do g numbers s live in packs o f six to 2 fall below 0. If A nuclea s r pack o ix, hunting efficie the pack f about s one dom ix dogs u ncy is eroded. inant bre sually e d in adult ma le helper g pair and severa consists of s l non-bre . about on A breed ed ce in pups, tho a year, with litte g female gives b ing irth rs averag ugh as m ing arou any as 19 spite of th nd 10 ha is Pups are , few pups actuall ve been recorded y survive b . in a hole orn in a shelter to adulth In of thick known a o o d. bush sad in the we lfare of th en. The entire p or grass, or babysit th ack is in e pups; b vo e young and prov oth males and fe lved twice as m id ale e many m food for ales are them. U s species, b o s r the fem ually n. Unli when the ale offspring leav ke many other e the nata y reach m l aturity, n ot the m group ales.

Wild dog pups © AWCF

About Lin Barrie Wildlife and community conservation, and responsible tourism in ecologically sensitive areas, are abiding interests for Lin, as portrayed in her life, art and writing portrayed through her blog, of which this view of Africa has been adapted. The Save Valley Conservancy stretches along the upper reaches of the great Save River in the south east of Zimbabwe. Here lies Senuko Wilderness Area, embracing Senuko Safari Lodge, which will be re launched as a luxury tourism lodge in the near future. This is home to artist and writer Lin Barrie and her life partner, conservationist and tourism operator Clive Stockil, winner of the Prince William Award for a lifetime achievement in Conservation, 2013. Home is a pristine wilderness for Lin and Clive, a place where their passion for conservation, African wild dogs, wine, food, art, creative writing and responsible

tourism can be indulged to the full. Expressing her hopes, fears and love for this special ecosystem with oil and acrylic paints on canvas, Lin Barrie believes that the essence of a landscape, person or animal, can only truly be captured by direct observation. Lin states: “Through my art, and my writing, I feel an intimate connection with the natural world, and from my extensive field sketches of wild animals, people and landscapes, I create larger works on canvas.” Lin’s work is in various public and private collections in South Africa, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Australia, England, Canada, Sweden and the United States of America. She is represented by galleries in South Africa, Zimbabwe, England, Kenya and Florida, USA. Lin’s art catalogue can be viewed at: www.wildlifeandwilddogs.wordpress.com/art

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Fact #4 and are a major sourpcuelaotifon

ogs, re po an wild d and usually whe abundant. ic fr A te ore ups, mina Lions do oth adults and p e low, lions are m will follow b r r a n a s fo g s d mortality f African wild do t klepto-parasite ir kills. n o riate the sful in ta s p r o ie o r it p p s p n im a e d re to succes hyenas a d dogs in order are more sually repel s Spotted a il n w e y n h a ic su tted Afr dog pack en the two ups, spo packs of o d r il g w in h g g betwe peratin ls, thou When o ican wild dog kil , the relationship enas. le fr h o A wh the y pirating nefit for . On the s e a b n d e e y h id e a one-s solitary ght to th species is een brou hment b e v a h y ica, the encroac ost of Afr s well as human ons as they m s s o r c a a s, ulati esent abitat los dog pop grazers across H d . Once pr il n w o ti to c extin al threats ders and domestic brink of on are re ersecuted by her ti u c e ted by s r e ever, and p transmit cally p , ti s a ie m b a es. How te r s m s y a s ti t n h n c e e e u ease s arch, have b ore rec nent. Dis cks in m ated rese the conti imated entire pa s of much dedic often involves focu hich s dec dogs, ha s are the on initiatives - w ter awareness of g o d d il w ti a n v rea a r g e ic a s n Afr many co lace - resulting in ght. d n a n o li u ti p protec eral pop tatus and g the gen ngered s a d n e educatin ir the

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge

Fact #5

African wild dogs are Artistic depictions of c palettes and other prominent on cosmeti y predynastic, while the objects from Egypt’s role in the mythology also play a prominent a San people of Botswan of Southern Africa’s ld dog as the ultimate who see the African wi s y believe that shaman hunter, and traditionall es n transform themselv and medicine men ca San hunters will into the wild dog. Some ir g bodily fluids on the smear African wild do lieving that doing so feet before a hunt, be animal’s boldness and will gift them with the the species does not agility. Nevertheless, San rock art, with the figure prominently in nt being a frieze in Mou only notable example es. ck hunting two antelop Erongo showing a pa r gs are the subject matte Today, African wild do ted tra rn artists as demons for a good many mode d anying works. Hers, an by Lin Barrie’s accomp of ss s raised the awarene the work of others, ha a deared the animals to the dog’s plight and en d an e, aiding awareness much broader audienc conservation efforts.

Above: Puppies make fabulous models...

e mythology too. In on Wild dogs appear in the indirectly linked to story, the wild dog is hare is cursed by the origin of death, as the nted by African wild moon to be forever hu ise uffs the moon’s prom dogs after the hare reb er s to be reborn aft to allow all living thing ing s ha the god Cagn tak death. Another story up gods by sending a gro revenge on the other gs o African wild do to of men transformed int ver o won the battle is ne attack them, though wh revealed.

Resources: 1. My Wild dog page: African Wild dogs on Facebook: A Celebration of Painted Wolves at www.facebook.com/pages/A Celebration of Painted Wolves 2.The Gonarezhou Predator Project operates under the auspices of the African Wildlife Conservation Fund (AWCF) which incorporates the Lowveld Wild Dog Project (LWDP), all projects being run by Dr. Rosemary Groom on rosemary@africanwildlifeconservationfund.org www.africanwildlifeconservationfund.org • www.zimbabwewilddogs.wildlifedirect.org 3. Painted Dog Conservation • www.painteddog.org 4. Painted Wolf Wines and Pedals 4 Paws • www.paintedwolfwines.com • www.pedals4paws.com Facebook page for Taste of Africa event, and African wild dogs (Painted Wolves): A Celebration of Painted Wolves 5. Frankfurt Zoological Society has initiated the Gonarezhou Conservation Project, a long term vision which has committed to a very interactive relationship with Gonarezhou National Park and the surrounding communities. The Gonarezhou Conservation Project provides logistical support to the park management. The FZS aircraft serves to monitor and record illegal activity within the park as well as to carry out aerial surveys of large mammals and vegetation coverage. • www.zgf.de/?projectId=105 • www.facebook.com/Frankfurt.Zoological.Society ‘Art by Lin Barrie’: • www.wildlifeandwilddogs.wordpress.com/art Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge website: • www.chilogorge.com

Painted Wolf Wines are one of the preferred brands at Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge and they sponsor many groundbreaking initiatives for African wild dog conservation in Southern Africa. Some of the wines donated by Jeremy and Emma Borg of Painted Wolf Wines for AWCF in support of the 2014 Two Oceans marathon included a magnificent Magnum, bearing a label painted by Lin Barrie! E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Life-changing journeys... with Wilderness Safaris Wilderness Safaris is an ecotourism company that specialises in creating life-changing journeys in some of the most pristine areas in southern Africa. It offers guests from all over the world private access to Zimbabwe’s beautiful places – from wildliferich Hwange and Mana Pools National Parks to the majestic Victoria Falls, showcasing these diverse areas through a variety of experiences, while at the same time helping to ensure the future protection of Africa’s spectacular wildlife heritage and sharing the benefits of tourism with local communities. Our Hwange camps are positioned in the best private concession in the Park, with access to outstanding wildlife in both summer and winter. Game drives and walks take in the plethora of plains game followed by predators, many drawn to the waterholes that the camps overlook. Linkwasha is our newest most luxurious offering; built on the site of the “old” Linkwasha Camp it is thus a symbol of our 20-year connection with and commitment to the people and wildlife of Zimbabwe. Ruckomechi Camp lies on the banks of the magnificent Zambezi River – one of Africa’s great waterways. Wildlife of all shapes and sizes are drawn to the waters and the nutritious riverine vegetation, and game drives, canoeing and walking are perfect ways to see such diversity. Catch-and-release fishing is a favourite activity here, while Ruckomechi boasts a favourite amongst guests: its outdoor ‘bath-with-a-view’ in a secluded, scenic spot. For more information contact Emmah Morengoa - Wilderness Safaris Zimbabwe Emmah@wilderness.co.zw / 013 43371/3

www.wilderness-safaris.com The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

2121

Elephants, Oranges & Raw Africa

By Ant Williams

There are places on this amazing continent of ours, which inspire a certain tranquillity that somehow transcend most other beautiful or scenic locales. Certain areas along the Zambezi, a particular remote airstrip I remember from my days of flying all over Africa, a deserted beach in Mozambique and the Namib desert are some that work for me. I am sure it is different for different people, and location is something which strikes a chord inside each of us for differing reasons, conjuring an old memory, re-igniting an image from our childhood, or even triggering a primal sense from long before we could remember... maybe even from the womb. I do not know what makes some places more significant than others, but do know that oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s soul seems to know. It only takes a split second for that spark of recognition to ignite, and suddenly a warm, fuzzy feeling settles within as that ember grows and a peace descends.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

22 Whether a casual visitor to Africa, or a resident of this mystical continent, they say that once Africa is in your blood, it never leaves you. If you open yourself, there is a primeval presence here... a knowing which does indeed make you feel like you are â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Nottingham Estates close to the Limpopo river in southern Zimbabwe - another of Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic rivers - is one such place. Ancient and raw in its desertlike aridness, the sweeping expanses push the distant horizons further than you might see anywhere else. It is not really a place one would imagine elephant to be a common sighting, though this place has something special. Nottingham is a citrus estate, and have a juicing plant which produces large volumes of pulped orange and peel. For years, they have dumped this pulp, on a daily basis for six months of the year, at a location the elephants have come to love... and I mean L O V E! I am guessing that after years of this delicacy, they know where and when to find it. That said, recent studies published in the journal Genome Research, examined the olfactory receptor (OR) range in 13 mammalian species including man. They found the African elephant has the largest number of OR genes ever characterised. Researchers identified over 10 000 OR genes in total.

The repertoire of OR genes found in any given species was highly unique only three OR genes were shared and evolutionarily conserved amongst all 13 mammals. The African elephant (Loxodonta africana) , they found, had the most extensive olfactory repertoire, with almost 2 000 OR genes. So, they could find the oranges on a moonless night, blindfolded and probably hypnotized to forget. But I digress... During my visit, which admittedly was primarily to partake in some bass fishing - I am fishing mad, and they have a unique, well-stocked dam on the estate which aside from the fishing offers evening sun-downer cruises, presenting wildlife photo opportunities, and some pretty amazing bird life too - we partook of an afternoon game drive followed by a visit to the place of elephants. Cresting a little hillock, the landscape opened before us, stretching away to the south in a vast broken, moon-like landscape, generally flat with pimples of rock-strewn kopjes haphazardly dotted here and there. A small cliff dropped away from our high-ground viewing point, and below, a natural amphitheater enclosed by ancient rock formations welcomed the game. Here, piles of pulp, its fragrance carrying on the warm afternoon air, summoned the elephants, and all manner of other

Above: The quaint cottages of Nottingham, with luscious lawn surrounding them in the heat of the Limpopo Valley. Left: The perfectly simple yet stylishly classic lodge accommodations. Below: The mood-lit bar/dining room.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

2323

game. The small cliff walls of the amphitheater were festooned with baboons, their impatient barks echoing over the scene, while eland stood patiently waiting their turn. The elephants though, filed into the amphitheater-opening in an orderly fashion, seemingly in small groups all part of the whole, and would often stop and commune or “chat” with other elephants. Almost human-like, they rubbed heads, touched trunks and nudged each other before moving on.

As the sun dipped to the western horizon, more elephants came, and as they did, the little groups which had enjoyed their fill, detached as one - kind of like watching oil poured in water, globules separating and then re-forming - and moved through the exit to walk in single file into the growing dusk, one or two stopping to rub against a tree, or mock charge the eland. A lower platform on the cliff gave us a more direct viewing of the pachyderms, and some good photographs, while all the time

watching and being amazed by their unique and complete interaction. It was simply awe inspiring. With the sun all but gone, and the flood lights casting a strange golden hue over the scene, the elephants kept coming. We counted over 100, but they are only a quarter of the estimated 400 elephant which know about the “place of the oranges”, and visit frequently. A last tinge of orange framed the sky as distant twinkling farm lights heralded the end of dusk. Night jars called - an

Left: The splendour of sunset light as we drove through the wilderness. Right: Little Cameron watched as slowly hundreds of elephants approached the oranges.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

iconic African sound - and a distant owl responded and still the elephants came. From behind us, our al-fresco dinner wafted to mingle with the smell of oranges, elephants, an open mopane-tree-wood-fire and braaing boerewors... and the sundowners took gentle effect. Close to the South African border with Zimbabwe, much of Nottinghamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clientele comes through from that country, and they offer a shuttle service for those wanting to visit from Zimbabweâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s southern neighbour. Built 12 years ago, the facility has seven chalets nestled along a small kopje (hill) overlooking the dam, each with its own view out over the water. The entire camp will sleep up to 25 people, and each lodge has bathroom en-suite, tea making facilities for those early mornings, air conditioning (it gets hot here in summer), and full 220v mains power throughout the day, while a back-up generator provides power on the odd occasions of power cuts.

Available to group bookings on a self-cater basis, or individually fully catered if that is your preference, the retreat has a compliment of nine staff including chefs (also capable of preparing special dietary menus), general hands and boat guide and one need only take food and drink. The main kitchen, dining room restaurant/lounge and bar area is located on top of the kopje central to all chalets. Brimming with facilities, it boasts upright display bar fridges, ample freezer space, ice makers, satellite tv, unlimited wi-fi internet, and a fully equipped kitchen. The entire camp is supplied by filtered (through a reverse osmosis filtration plant) drinking water too. A lawned area with adjacent pool deck completes the facility, and in itself provides enough distraction for those not wanting to spend full days trekking the African landscape. The dam which had been the focus of my fishing exploits, is simply spectacular! Built in 1993 to supplement water supplied to the

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

citrus estates from the Limpopo river, it pushes back some 7km and is jam packed with fishing structure. Flooded trees, rock islands, bull rushes, water weeds, and a typically jagged and rocky shore line which will keep the avid angler busy for days. As I say, the bird life is spectacular and if you are into photography, the lake-side game, huge crocodiles sunning themselves on the banks, and general scenery bathed in ethereal light - let alone the elephants - will fill your memory cards in quick time. This is truly a stunning and unique part of Africa, as old and unique as the deserts, mountain ranges and even rivers. Bass fishing and good people aside, it certainly is a new one of my special places. I hope you might find it so too one day. For more information, visit their website at: www. n o t t i n g h a m a d v e n t u r e s . c o. z a or e-mail them at bookings@ nottinghamestate.co.za.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

Traveller’s Smile...

A Visit to the Witchdoctor - An African Bedtime Story

Since ancient times, children have yearned for good stories at bedtime, something with a moral, something to cling to while falling asleep. Look at how Aesop’s Fables, like The Hare and The Tortoise, have stood the test of time and crossed cultural barriers. In Africa, it is no different, but with blending cultures and modern outlooks, have come some entertaining stories... Here is one of them. A lady of European descent, named Sarah, was invited to visit a witchdoctor. It was a chance to experience a unique part of traditional African culture, but what she had expected to be a mere tourist trip, held a few valuable lessons. “How are things? We go now.” Pleasure smiled, one arm extended formally. His vivid white boiler suit and lab coat stood out against the bare red dirt around us, the clothes as clean, crisp and unusual, in rural Zimbabwe, as fresh snow. Pleasure shook hands with Sarah and asked if she was ready for her visit to the witchdoctor. He was impressed... at his insistence, she had worn a long dress, instead of a trousers suit with revealing top. He had tried to explain that even though Africa is modernizing, it is still disrespectful to show any skin below your neck and any skin above your ankles. Sarah had tried hard as it was unlike anything else she owned, having been a scruffy London student just a few months earlier. The reason for this trip to the witchdoctor was shrouded in mystery and when asked, Pleasure only rubbed his stomach and said: “I been sick three weeks.” Pleasure had already visited the clinic 60 kilometers away to see the ‘modern’ doctors, but he was

still feeling ill and now seeking a traditional remedy. Knowing that foreigners liked to experience tribal customs, Pleasure had thoughtfully invited Sarah to visit the n’anga, or witch doctor, with him. Now Pleasure’s slight figure marched across the fields, back straight, arms swinging and head set firmly towards the horizon, while Sarah stumbled behind, eyes trained to the ground. From time to time he waited for her to catch up, but as soon as she drew close and slowed to take in the scenery, he sped off again, apparently indifferent to the fiery sun, rough terrain and Sarah’s aching lungs. Eventually they arrived and were ushered into a tiny thatched hut where the dread-locked n’anga awaited them, wearing a smart shirt, a pink scarf, a blue blanket and a huge smile. After cheerfully shooing away two curious children, he sat down on the dirt floor, back and legs straight, ankles crossed tidily. The smell of smoke filled the air, and dust clung to an array of bottles and jars clustered behind him. Pleasure and Sarah sat down too and, as their eyes grew used to the flickering darkness, the consultation began. The n’anga and Pleasure talked to each other in Shona with low, urgent voices, while Sarah watched and listened, but understood nothing. The n’anga carefully unwrapped a paper parcel and took out some small bones. He cupped them in his hands, shook them and dropped them deliberately, then mumbled softly to himself and shook his head. His magic rituals and charismatic energy

transfixed them, and they watched carefully, trying to read the secret messages hidden in the pattern of the bones and the n’anga‘s body language. Sarah was looking forward to seeing which of the assorted containers held the cure for Pleasure’s ailment. The meeting ended abruptly, the bright sunlight breaking its spell as the n’anga waved goodbye. Pleasure maintained his usual silence all the way home and walked Sarah right back to her door. She thanked him for taking her, but was now doubly curious about what treatment the n’anga had prescribed him. She waited for him to confirm her suspicion that they’d walked 30 kilometers only to be hoodwinked by a charlatan, but Pleasure was not forthcoming. Sarah hadn’t seen any money change hands but guessed that Pleasure had traded something for an hour of hocus-pocus and a superstitious spell. For Shona people, it’s rude to look at someone straight in the eye but, if Pleasure had not been Zimbabwean, he would have looked right at Sarah as he revealed the witchdoctor’s advice: “He told me to keep taking the pills they gave me at the clinic.”

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

uBUNT U

N. /ʊˈbuːntʊ/ uu-boontuu; Zulu pronunciation: [ùɓúntʼú]) is an Nguni Bantu term roughly translating to “human kindness.”

By D’arci Lutangu

It is an idea from the Southern African region which means literally “human-ness,” and is often translated as “humanity toward others,” but is often used in a more philosophical sense to mean “the belief in a universal bond of sharing that connects all humanity”. Source: Tutu, Desmond. “Who we are: Human uniqueness and the African spirit of Ubuntu” and “About the Name”. Official Ubuntu Documentation. Canonical. Retrieved 5 January 2013. Throughout the tribes of Africa, there is an underlying “Ubuntu”… it is more than just being human, it is the reason that most original tribal languages do not have a word for death. This is because in Africa, you do not really die, your spirit changes form and you become a part of the earth, or the trees or the animals… an ancestor is present always in the minds of the living and therefore, one has not died. In this same way, all African languages have an important term for after you say the words “thank you”, because the very basis of humanness is to acknowledge an emotion, and the emotion of gratefulness should be acknowledged too. In English, we say, “You’re welcome.” but seldom do you find someone who uses it in the African way, with the weight of acknowledging an emotion. I recently met a ten-year-old who embodied the very life-blood of “Ubuntu”. It occurred to me that he had all of the base emotions that as grown-ups we take for granted. Quinn Edwards-Hogan was the youngest in a party of seven, when we made the unchartered journey to the Batoka Gorge Dam Site on the Zambezi river below Victoria Falls. Scheduled as a fishing trip to fish the waters few others had fished, we planned our camping trip loosely, not being sure whether we would be able to drive all the way to the river or not. Of course, we should have expected that this would not be the case, because although there had been a concrete set of tracks placed there some twenty years ago, it had not been used for some time. Someone once told me that if a place is left vacant in the world, it becomes derelict and desertified, but if a place is left vacant in Africa, Africa takes it back…forests grow around it, rivers meander and rocks fall. And, when reaching the top of the descent into the Batoka Gorge, we had no idea how far down the river lay, or what we might encounter on the way there. It was at this point in time, already a good two hours into our trip, having driven out from Victoria Falls on approximately 100km of dirt road, that Quinn’s father noticed his shoeless feet. Having been told to bring good walking shoes for thorns and rockfalls, Quinn was in a fair amount of trouble with his father, but in moments, was back to his cheerful

self, knowing that he had to suffer the consequences of not bringing footwear. Seizing all sense of adventure, we took what we could carry, tents, food and overnight bags and began the descent. The terrain, to say the least, was treacherous. As we climbed deeper into thorn and brush-ridden territories, we had to keep searching for the semblance of the old concrete tracks, covered by rocks and all manner of fauna or washed away into deep foreboding crevices – or “dongas” as they are known in Africa. Stopping for a rest a mere 20 minutes into our climb, I looked up and felt awed by the towering cliffs above us, by the trees, having grown around the huge rocks and even some concrete. A spot clearly not visited by just anybody. As we climbed lower, we could feel the temperature rising, and the foliage becoming more and more dense. Before long, just wiping the sweat from your brow was difficult, as the thorns, black jacks and fever bush seeds that attached themselves to your skin by lifting your arm, was a prickly pain to be avoided at all costs. Having branched off from the middle of the company to the back, I stopped for numerous rests to discuss life with my new friend, Quinn... as the only girl and the only little person, we felt we should probably stick together just in case the adult men turned to cannibalism and looked for the weaker targets! Quinn, carrying a knapsack, a sleeping bag and a fishing rod, never once bemoaned the thorns and fever bushes causing havoc to his naked feet, but still found the conscience to ask if I’d like him to carry anything more as he politely told me, “Girls shouldn’t carry things.” You can see why my old fashioned values were awakened. Upon hearing the river roaring below us, we thought we were close. It became inhumanly humid as we struggled through the last couple of hundred metres of tropical canopy overhead. Little streams and rivulets trickling down hidden rocks and birds shrieking in their hidden paradise as we trudged through the last frontier. Our decent had taken fully two hours! With the abandon of reaching our destination in the heat of an African summer’s day, we all but ran to the edge of the thundering Zambezi, dropping all we were carrying for a drink of cool water.

Batoka Gorge Dam is a hydro-electric project planned to be built on the Zambezi river - the border between Zambia in the north and Zimbabwe in the south - below Victoria Falls and will be owned jointly by both countries.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

30 Little rock pools created at the edge of river permitted me to scoop the cool water onto my thorn tattered skin, feeling quite like I’d reached an oasis of my senses. And there I sat, in wonder, as I surveyed the Zambezi gushing around the corner of the 24th rapid-strewn Gorge. Having settled and the fishing begun, I called to Quinn, making him sit in an armchair-shaped pile of rocks in front of me. He chatted away happily while I placed a burning antiseptic on his feet. Each toe cut and scratched, pierced and open in many places, he agreed to plasters only if they did not have cartoon characters on them. It was during this exchange that Quinn explained to me the complicated emotion of not liking being

The sun beating on the black basalt rocks that made up the landscape of our destination, surrounded by towering mountains of wilderness. Below: “Girls shouldn’t carry things”

thanked when he had not done something that deserved gratitude. He laboured over the fact that you then had to say, “You’re welcome.” but not mean it in turn... Here was Quinn, with a toothy ten-year-old smile that told of years beyond his age. He understood Ubuntu. Not only understood, but lived it... Not having brought enough down the gorge to spend the night as comfortably as we thought - citydwellers that we are - saw three of us trek back up the gorge to bring more supplies down. As we had already done this walk, it should have been simple enough, until a point in time when I’d been left just a bit further behind my companions and could feel the hairs on the back of my neck

The proposed dam site is located near the Kabompo Falls, a constriction in the river canyon and when complete will rise 181 meters (one of Africa’s tallest) creating a 50 kilometer long reservoir that would flood the gorge upstream to Rapid 5, just below Victoria Falls. The 1 680 million cubic meter reservoir will cover an area of approximately 26 square kilometers. The project would drown the Zambezi’s iconic big water rapids and devastate river based tourism activities like kayaking and white water rafting. The project has been estimated to cost in the region of US$6 billion, but according to a recent analysis of large scale dam projects across the globe, the actual costs of dams are “on average 96% higher than estimated costs.” The project will take 10-13 years to complete and

standing up. We live in a world where we so seldom are just one with nature, depending on our intuition to get by, that when I was stripped raw, with no internet, no phone and no fall back plan, I froze. Having grown up in a fairly outdoorsy family had taught me to wield a knife pretty well, but when faced with the memory of only one other time I had felt this particular feeling in the bush, all knives seemed hopeless. Some say a leopard will attack only once it has made eye contact. I was fearful of making eye contact that last time a leopard was close - and I was with someone who knew there was a leopard stalking us - and now the memory made my palms sticky The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

once in full operation will generate 1,600 megawatts split between Zambia and Zimbabwe. A significant pro for the dam is that it will not inundate a large land mass and is in a low settlement density area, minimizing the number of people that need to be resettled. However, the gorge is a habitat for a number of rare bird species, and the project is expected to have major impacts on local endangered species. Birdlife International lists the Batoka Gorge as an ‘Important Bird Area’ on the basis of its conservation importance. Four species of note breed in the gorge, including the Taita falcon (a small, agile endangered raptor). Another 34 raptor species are also found in the gorge, including rare birds of prey such as Verraux’s eagle (previously known as the Black eagle).

and my neck cold. My immediate reaction was to look around, try to peer into the gloomy overgrowth of tangled riverine forest that pressed against my being. But... If I were to find the object of my fear... I closed my eyes, summoned all of my inner strength and walked slowly and deliberately up the hill feeling its gaze follow me. I’d rather never know if there was a leopard but it made me feel ten times luckier to have lived to this point in my life. There is no substitute for gratitude. It was under this feeling of peace with my surrounds that we sat around a campfire that evening and solved the

31A

problems of the world. Duly grateful, lit by the full moon and the beautiful stars in the clear night, I fell into one of the best night’s sleep I’ve had in years. And then, something happened that happens every single day, I awoke next to the man I love, and the sun was shining in the not-so-dedicated fashion of just before seven, and the only difference was that I was saddled with the newfound knowledge that I was given all of this. Every day. Wild Africa does that to you… I reached for my towel and toilet bag and climbed down the fifty feet of rock to the river a little further downstream. The rock pools were still and warming even by the early morning Above: The terrain sun. Intending only to brush my teeth we trekked through for and wash my face, I was suddenly hours. overcome by the magnanimity of Below: The thorns we where I was, so privileged to be in the walked upon, Quinn, Batoka Gorge where few men have ever barefoot... walked, maybe Livingstone when he discovered the Victoria Falls, or maybe a transient tribe of Matabele people as they hunted or marched their military to the hinterland. Here I was, where few men ever would walk again, as in years to come, this gorge would be covered in water, hence the Batoka Dam. This great river made me feel humbled in its presence. Filled with thoughts of the people of old having come to wash at the edge of this river from Tanzania to Zambia, thoughts of people living off this water as the centre of their lives, of business and of necessity, who was I to change the way people had come to this river for life, for cleansing, for food, for meaning? Not allowing another thought, I stripped and stepped into one of the shallow pools, sighing as the water touched my skin. The water was so soft that the soap lathered luxuriously and I delighted in the suds, scooping handfuls of water over my shoulders. An experience fit for a true African princess, bathing in the great Zambezi River and its watery sunshine. While dressing, I sucked in the deepest breaths I’d ever breathed, full of thick, fresh air. It felt like my Zambezi said, “You’re welcome.” I could suddenly conquer anything. Even the climb back to the top of the gorge felt like an easy task, so much so, I can see why the great explorers who came to the edge of the Zambezi found it necessary to do great things in their lives. To build power lines and train tracks across Africa... I learnt the power of humanity in gratitude. The power of receiving a “You’re welcome.”

Indeed, there are many other factors to consider, not least of all the effects on the downstream river itself. Other impoundments have already impacted negatively, adding to degradation of coastal mangroves; reduction in freshwater and prawn fisheries, floodplain agriculture, floodplain water supply and wildlife carrying capacity; and biophysical impacts such as the down cutting channels in the delta and reduction of the water table level. An additional dam would worsen these impacts. Added to which an extensive 2012 report on the hydrological risks to Zambezi River dams reported climate change is predicted to cause a 25 to 40 percent reduction in the river’s flow, which could significantly compromise the hydroelectric productivity of the Batoka Gorge project. Climate modeling on the proposed Zambezi dams found that the Batoka Gorge Dam is likely to lose 6 to 22% production due to declining rainfall as a result of a warming climate in the basin, and therefor not likely to deliver the expected services over their lifetime. Impact Assessment Studies were carried out many years ago, and are being up-dated now, the results of which will determine the next step in the project. Funding for construction has not been approved with only the ESIA having been funded by the World Bank so far.

Right: Quinn with one of the many tigerfish he has taught some manners to...

Adventure Gallery Featured Above: “Thunder Gorge” Photographer: © Tami Walker Photography Location: Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe Equipment: Canon EOS 7D Settings: F/3.5; Shutter speed: 1/40; ISO: 250

Sponsored by Below: “Sky is the Limit” Photographer: © R.L. Butson Location: Namib Desert, Namibia Equipment: Nikon D90 Settings: F/14; Shutter speed: 1/500; ISO: 400

© R.L. Butson Spend US$20 or more on Canon products in any Focal Point Store and stand a chance to win a getaway for two at Troutbeck Inn located in the misty mountain ranges of the Eastern Highlands of Zimbabwe. Place your till slip in the competition boxes provided in Focal Point Stores. *Terms & conditions apply. The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

33 Title: “Fairytale Blue” Photographer: © D. Lutangu Location: Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania Equipment: Nikon D90 Settings: F/5.6; Shutter speed: 1/2000; ISO: 280

Below: “Blue Track Minded” Photographer: © Desiree Mostert Location: South Africa Equipment: Nikon D90 Settings: F/5.6; Shutter speed: 1/800; ISO: 800

Left: “Relax” Photographer: © Oli Botha and Kira Cranswick Location: Lake Kariba, Matusadona, Zimbabwe Equipment: Sony DSC-H90 Settings: F/5.6; Shutter speed: 1/400; ISO: 80

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

3535

Survivor 101

Fight or Flight?

“Every morning in Africa, a gazelle wakes up, it knows it must outrun the fastest lion or it will be killed. Every morning in Africa, a lion wakes up. It knows it must run faster than the slowest gazelle, or it will starve. It doesn’t matter whether you’re the lion or a gazelle - when the sun comes up, you’d better be running.” - Christopher McDougall From a wise man the best advice given when dealing with African wildlife; “Do not run. If you run, any predator within two hundred metres will think you are prey.” In North America, it is considered good practice to lie down and play dead like the opossum. In Africa, this is not considered intelligent as any predator (other than a cheetah) is quite happy to consume putrid carrion, so playing dead would probably get you eaten pretty fast. Of course, that said, there are a few different ways to handle fight or flight situations... The African elephant is the largest wild animal you might encounter in the field, however, luckily for us, the animal’s field of vision is compromised by the location and limited mobility of the eyes. Elephants are considered dichromats (which in human terms means slightly colour blind) and they can see well in dim light but not in bright light. Therefore, if you have come E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

36 across one and you happen to be downwind, you can back track slowly and it’s not likely that it will chase after you wildly. Most times, if an elephant does notice you, it will first mock charge before any serious attempt to hurt you. Each elephant has a distinctive character so it is not always possible to generalize about the difference between serious and mock charges. Generally though, an aggressive elephant raises its head and trunk, extends its ears, trumpets and throws up clouds of dust by kicking the ground and shaking its head. A lot of this activity initially involves displays of bravado and can be considered to be mock displays. Any specie in its right mind will take notice of these threatening displays and take the necessary evasive action. If the elephant, however, realizes that attempts to intimidate have failed and still feels threatened, it will likely then sway backwards and forwards before it charges. In a serious charge the ears are held back against the neck and the trunk is tucked up against the chin. Most charges are stopped before the target is reached. At top speed an elephant can travel at 40kph (25mph), however their biggest asset is not their speed, it is their sheer bulk, tusks and trunk as well as their strength in numbers. It is generally recommended that if you can get out of the way of an elephant before it charges, do so. Usain Bolt has clocked 44kph so it is possible to run faster than an elephant! With rhino or buffalo, climbing a tree is a good option if you are fast and the tree is suitable, but it

is not a good idea with elephants, as they will just pull you out. Rhinos are as blind as bats, so standing stock still can work as long as they definitely don’t have you in their sight and as long as the wind is definitely in your favor. Black rhinos will sometimes charge in arbitrary directions to try and intimidate you into moving and betraying your position. Still you can probably make it up that tree. If you encounter a predator, such as a lion or cheetah, it is generally accepted that running will cause you to lose your life in a few seconds. A lion’s full sprint charge can cover 22 metres in one second. Do not run as lions instinctively kill a fleeing animal - it’s in their DNA. It has often been suggested that you threaten or intimidate a predator with noise and confident body language or attitude. The idea with a predator is to give them the idea that you are stronger or larger than them. They say a leopard will not charge in daylight unless you have made eye contact, so looking up in the trees is out of the question too... For all dangerous game, unless you are an expert, steer well clear of them and leave them in peace. There are few National Parks in Africa that still allow individuals to walk without a professional guide; Mana Pools in Zimbabwe being one of them. The best advice we can give is to be respectful toward the wildlife - after all, you are in their house.

There’s just no question! Do not get into the water! African legend has it thet the river god, or the crocodile god, is the ultimate foreseer of justice. Similar to the Greek concept of Hades, the crocodile god knows who has done good and evil, therefore, it is widely accepted that no harm will come to you from the crocodiles if you have done no evil. As the crocodiles do the bidding of the crocodile god, it is only by way of karmic debt that a crocodile will take you. This is why, oftentimes, rural African people in the bush will still wade in the water and wash their children with no fear of impending crocodile attack.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

3737

The Taste of Africa Pronounced “poi-key” (pot) and “poi-key-cos” (pot food). The potjie is the pot and the latter is the traditional way of cooking that dates back to the 1500’s. The potjie pot however dates back to the iron age when man learned to cast iron into vessels of different shapes for a variety of purposes. The pots during this time also developed a lot of mystery due to the fact that they were very popular amongst the witches and druids of the time, who used the pots for their rituals and ceremonies. The potjies also bring to mind cannibals and the name “missionary pots”, which they are often called. It was during this era that the round belly three legged cooking pot developed and for all practical intents and purposes, became an ideal cooking pot that was designed to be used over an open fire. In the mid 1600’s the potjie and the traditional way of cooking arrived in Africa, along with the early explorers, who used these cooking vessels exclusively, on their expeditions into the interior. It was during this period that the tribal Africans saw these pots and seeing the practical uses, traded these pots for animal hides and other commodities, replacing clay pots that were used for cooking. Among the African cultures these pots became known as “Putu” pots (corn meal pots). As a result, the potjie is used extensively in Africa today by almost all cultures, and has survived the test of time. Over the centuries, the potjie has retained most of its original shape and traditional form because of the age-old practical features. With modern technology it is possible to produce today, this high quality cast iron cookware, that has become as popular as it was then, an essential cooking utensil. Potjiekos has its origins dating

Oxta il Potji e Rec ipe

• 2 onions, finely chop ped • 2 cloves ga rlic • 1 litre beef • Olive oil or vegetabl e stock • 2 tbs flour • 1 kg oxtail pieces, as le • 2 tsp mixed an as possib • 3 carrots herbs le • 1 tsp salt • 1 small bu tternut • 1 tsp papr • 1 tin cher ika ry tomatoes • 1 tsp corian or whole pe tomatoes der eled • 1 tsp course • 250 ml re ground blac d wine k • 1 sprig pa rsley, choppe pepper Put flour, sa d • 1 tb lt, paprika, s ch iv es , chopped coriander an oxtail pieces d pepper in so the meat to a plastic 3tbs) in a la is evenly co ba g and toss to rge flat-bot at ed . Heat a gene gether wit tomed potjie fry for a few rous glug of or heavy bo minutes un olive oil (abo h ttomed pan. til just turn over. Retain ut Add onion ing seasoned fl and garlic an our left in th brown. Add the floure Once the m d d e ox ba ea tail and brow g in case yo pot and cook t is sealed, add red win u need to th n all icken the st e, mixed he slowly on a ew later. rbs and half very low he that there’s th at for three enough flui hours. Every e stock. Cover the d covered bu t not drowne and add stock to prev so often, chec ent it drying d. After thre k to see until they’r out. The mea e ho e cooked an t should be d beginning urs, add the veggies an ensure ther e’s enough d to co di ok for anot sintegra moisture. W her hour hen ready, sp te into the gravy. Keep checking to rinkle chop the stew an ped chives d serve on a and parsley bed of rice. over

back to the war between the Netherlands and Spain (15661648). It was during this time that the siege of Leyden took place and food was very scarce, that the towns people were forced to eat “hutspot” (hodgepodge) to survive. The town’s people all contributed what meager morsels they had at home, into a large communal pot and cooked it all together. Today in Holland, hutspot is still cooked at the annual commemoration day, of the “Siege of Leyden”. It was the Dutch who then took this way of cooking to Africa, when the colonial administrator Jan Van Riebeeck set sail and landed at the “Cape of Good Hope” in 1652. Not only did these early settlers use the potjies for potjiekos, but also for baking breads using the potjies as an oven and always over an open fire. When trade to Africa increased, mainly by the Dutch East India Company, many new spices and herbs became available that further contributed to the evolution of

potjiekos and has become a unique cuisine on its own. Potjiekos is robust, full of flavours, very healthy, but it is also a friendly and very sociable occasion. Not only is potjiekos healthy food, but in modern times, potjiekos has become an event; a group of good friends, a well seasoned potjie, good beer or a fine wine, a warm fire, lots of time, fine food, tall stories and delectable aromas. The pores in the cast iron capture flavours of past potjiekos, which gradually get released into the potjie as the metal heats up. Most potjiekos taste better the next day after having “aged” overnight in the pot. When you cook a potjie, place hot coals under and around the pot. You can regulate the heat by moving coals closer to or further away. Listen to the sound of your potjie - if from two metres away can hear a loud bubbling sound, the heat is too high., if you can barely hear a soft simmer, the temperature is just right. A secret to potjies - only stir once!

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

38 38

Impala

(Aepyceros melampus)

Impala are a common sight in the bushveld and on the plains of Africa. The graceful lines and agility of these antelope are their trademark. Famed for their jumping ability, they can leap high into the air. This attribute is their only means of escape from danger, leaping in all directions when alarmed. Impala are an integral part of the bushveldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s make-up and, where found in large numbers, are the main source of food for predators and are preyed upon by lion, leopard, hyena and wild dog and need to be constantly alert. They are therefore not easy to approach and require carefully planned stalks. Description Impala (Aepyceros melampus) The southern impala (Aepyceros melampus), as opposed to the blackfaced impala (Aepyceros petersi) of northern Namibia and southwest Angola, is medium size, and as a family group, is one of a kind. It has

no close relatives, although expert opinion differs on this matter. It is classed as the only member of the subfamily Aepycerotinae. Only the male develops horns. They are wide set, swept backwards and bowed outwards, forming an s-shape spiral which has a distinctive ridge. The horns are smooth towards the tips. Both male and female have a two-toned shiny reddish coat. The torso and limbs are tan in colour, with a red to brown saddle. The tail and thighs have vertical black stripes, and the hoof joints and the tip of the ears are also black. Above the eye, under the tail, the lips, the inside of the ear, belly and throat are all white in colour. Scent glands appear as tufts of black fur above the rear feet, and it is believed that when in flight from danger these glands release a scent that enables the herd to regroup after the danger has passed. Adult males have glands on the forehead The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

African Distribution of Impala Red = Aepyceros melampus Blue = Aepyceros petersi

and during the rut, territorial males will be seen ceremoniously rubbing their heads against trees as they mark out their territory. Habitat The Impala, although occurring in irregular groups, are widely distributed throughout southern and

39 39 central Africa. Their ideal habitat is associated with open woodland and it is not unusual to find them in abundance near Acacia stands adjacent to small open grassland. Water is an essential component of their habitat. But they are known to wander into arid areas where they congregate around man-made water troughs or boreholes. Habits Impala are social animals, congregating in small groups usually numbering between six and 20 animals. During the rainy season and towards early winter, when cooler temperatures are experienced, larger herds congregate and may number as many as 100. Females are able to breed and conceive at 18 months of age, whereas males, although capable, only begin breeding at the age of four, by which time they have acquired their own territories. Breeding herds are made up of both young and adult females. Sometimes young males are present as well as a number of adult males. Bachelor herds wander around in small groups and, although territorial boundaries may overlap from time

to time, these herds usually stay well away from the breeding herds. These bachelor groups are usually made up of younger males, but contain a number of mature animals who will often establish themselves as territorial males during the rut. Territorial displays and behavior only become apparent as the breeding season approaches. Adult males become very aggressive prior to and during the rut, extremely vocal and will vent their anger with displays of snorting and roaring. During the rut, males will separate groups of between 15 and 20 females with their young from larger herds. Mating usually takes place towards the end of the rainy season, and is affected largely by moon phases. The rut peaks during a 20 day period usually between full moons. Territorial males defend their areas aggressively, strutting around and snorting to ward off any potential threat. These mannerisms are usually punctuated with the lowering of horns and head bobbing. If there is still a threat after this display the male may attack his adversary. Fights are brief affairs

and may last no longer than a few seconds. However, in some instances this horn crashing and head pushing can become quite violent, resulting in serious injuries and sometimes even death. During the breeding season a male will mate with as many as 10 to

Above Right: During the rut males will often be seen sparring. A common sight associated with impala are â&#x20AC;&#x153;latrinesâ&#x20AC;? (Above Inset), so called because animals, usually males, will frequently use these areas to defecate (Above Left) effectively marking their territories. The area is normally clearly visible with an accumulation of pellets. E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

40 15 females. Gestation takes between 194 to 200 days, after which females will leave the herd to give birth in isolation. Birth takes place in thick cover, either heavy bush or tall grass. Interestingly, females are able to delay birthing if conditions are not ideal, such as during a dry spell or drought. Some believe they can even halt a pregnancy should a drought or unsuitable conditions prevail. After a day or two, the female with her young will return to the

herd. This stage of the young animalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life is very important and it is at this time they are vulnerable to attack from predators. Weaning is complete after a 4 to 5 month period. Young males, their horns beginning to develop, will leave the herd after 8 months, normally as a result of aggression from territorial males, and will form their own bachelor groups. Social Behavior Impala are primarily active during daylight hours, resting under

the cover of trees or any available shade during the hottest hours of the day. Plagued by parasites and biting flies, these animals have a habit of continuously twitching their tails and ears and stamping their feet to rid themselves of the irritation. A large amount of time is spent grooming one another, particularly on inaccessible areas of the neck and head. Impala display surprising agility when alarmed. They are capable of

jumping as high as 10 feet (3 meters) and sometimes cover a distance of 36 feet (11 meters) with relative ease and grace. In the presence of danger they use this ability as a means of escape, the entire herd exploding in different directions and causing great confusion. Food Impala are both grazers and browsers depending on their location, time of year and the availability of food. During the wet season they will eat grass and, as winter and the dry season approach, will move towards riverine areas where grass is still in abundance. As

grass becomes scarce, fine twigs and leaves form their diet. Dried leaves and twigs are also eaten and often, the small buds of plants. Stalking As already stated, this is a most beautiful antelope, and makes a worthy photographic subject. Tracking and approaching them can be challenging, as they have very good eyesight and sense of smell. To affect a successful approach, one should walk into the wind, through open woodland areas, and keep oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s party numbers to a minimum, thereby reducing the chances of being seen. Herd males with their spiraled horns, often

silhouetted against an azure African sky are excellent muses. Males tend to take up a position near the back of the herd, where they can control their harem and fight off other males. While the animals are grazing these males may also be seen moving back and forth through the herd and, as herds may have more than one mature male, it is worth glassing the animals and scrutinizing the whole herd for that award winning unusual animal doing something interesting. Impala fowls too are both entertaining to watch and if one can approach close enough undetected, interesting to photograph.

The Skype Effect By Renée Mostert

Recently, I spoke with an Aunt in Switzerland and a miniature niece, blue eyes, blonde hair, which for little girls everywhere, in the interests of aunts and spoiling territories, should be illegal. Miniature niece met her great aunt online, has only visited with her once in person, but they know each other pretty well. Charlotte, of two years and two weeks, fits the word Skype into a conversation without a moment of hesitation, both understanding and looking forward to seeing and speaking with her great aunt in real time… First released in August 2003, Skype was created by Swedish Niklas Zennström and Danish Janus Friis in Estonia, based upon a peerto-peer music sharing software called Kazaa. Originally called Skyper, (from “Sky peer-to-peer”) they shortened it to Skype because some of the Skyper domain names were taken. I’m not sure about you but I’m quite pleased that my niece doesn’t have to say “Can we Skyper call now?” Skype added videoconferencing options with its January 2006 Windows and Macintosh releases and forever changed what we wear in front of the computer. Some 136 years after Alexander Graham Bell patented the telephone, he could finally see what Watson was wearing! After one of the world’s quickest adoptions of a piece of software, Microsoft acquired Skype in May 2011 for $8.5 billion. And, at one point in February 2012, there were thirty four million users concurrently online on Skype. A successful venture, to say the least, but how did it impact the travel world? Well, in communication terms, from Morse code 167 years ago, Skype has made it thousands of times easier to know that you probably won’t fall off the edge of the world if you sail across an

ocean. On a more serious note, Skype has single-handedly made it cost-effective and simple to speak with anyone, anywhere in the world and in-so-doing, made it easier not to feel guilty about the last time you paid for an air ticket to visit family. With travel becoming easier because of technology, people are often living in another city because they have a better job offer or even have fallen in love, but how does it work for our natural human psyche? The human mind is not equipped to deal with completely isolated situations and it is still unclear how a human would react if in complete isolation as it would not be possible to study (and a little inhumane!). In 1961, French geologist Michel Siffre led a two-week expedition to study an underground glacier beneath the French Alps and ended up staying two months, fascinated by how the darkness affected human biology. He decided to abandon his watch and “live like an animal”. While conducting tests with his team on the surface, they discovered it took him five minutes to count to what he thought was 120 seconds. There are other examples of how the human mind slows time in isolated situations… take Maurizio Montalbini, a sociologist and caving enthusiast. In 1993, Montalbini spent 366 days in an underground cavern near Pesaro in Italy that had been designed with NASA to simulate space missions, breaking his own world record for time spent underground. When he emerged, he was convinced only 219 days had passed. His sleep-wake cycles had almost doubled in length. Since then, researchers have found that in darkness most people eventually adjust to a 48-hour cycle: 36 hours of activity followed by 12 hours of sleep. The reasons are still unclear. And recently, and also perhaps, most extensively, an experiment

took place at McGill University Medical Center in Montreal, led by the psychologist Donald Hebb. The McGill researchers invited paid volunteers – mainly college students – to spend days or weeks by themselves in sound-proof cubicles, deprived of meaningful human contact. Their aim was to reduce perceptual stimulation to a minimum, to see how their subjects would behave when almost nothing was happening. They minimised what they could feel, see, hear and touch, fitting them with translucent visors, cotton gloves and cardboard cuffs extending beyond the fingertips. As Scientific American magazine reported at the time, they had them lie on U-shaped foam pillows to restrict noise, and set up a continuous hum of air-conditioning units to mask small sounds. After only a few hours, the students became acutely restless. They started to crave stimulation, talking, singing or reciting poetry to themselves to break the monotony. Later, many of them became anxious or highly emotional. Their mental performance suffered too, struggling with arithmetic and word association tests. But the most alarming effects were the hallucinations. They would start with points of light, lines or shapes, eventually evolving into bizarre scenes, such as squirrels marching with sacks over their shoulders or processions of eyeglasses filing down a street. They had no control over what they saw: one man saw only dogs; another, babies. Some of them experienced sound hallucinations as well: a music box or a choir,

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

42 for instance. Others imagined sensations of touch: one man had the sense he had been hit in the arm by pellets fired from guns. Another, reaching out to touch a doorknob, felt an electric shock. Only a year ago, I spoke with a distant acquaintance I had known at school and she explained to me that she ran an office for geological studies in the north of Norway, land of the midnight sun, where the sun does not rise above the horizon from the 19th of November to the 22nd of January. Helene’s family lives in Africa and she only has a few friends where she is. In a typical day, she only uses Skype to communicate with her colleagues as she runs a splinter office, works until 5 or 6 in the evening and then goes home. The only time she sees anyone in person is when she goes to the supermarket and even then, it’s a pretty small town. Before we met last year, Helene had not visited her family for seven years in person and she explained to me how she had begun to not really know them at all. She believed she knew their faces, their nervous ticks, the stories of their week-to-week lives through Skype but somehow an actual physical connection had not been made and slowly she had started to shun speaking with them at all, thinking they disliked her and were

plotting against her in some way or form – some days she thought they were trying to sabotage her job, other days, she just had a minor panic attack when she heard her Skype ringing. It was a strange chain of events in what led me to examining that through the ages, human beings have been born into a population that had a nuclear family group, ranging from three to twenty, an extended clan, ranging from twenty to fifty and a civilized village, ranging from fifty to about 350 or thereabouts. The nuclear family usually knows you well, your history, your hopes and dreams, your strengths and your weaknesses. Your clan usually knows things about your personality and information about your life but it would be difficult to pin them down to knowing extensive details and deep dark secrets. Your village are the people you work with, see occasionally and perhaps sometimes socialize with. If you look at the average number of friends on Facebook, it even relates there: 338 is the mean number of friends on Facebook. Contrastingly, even though shown here by our habits and inability to be alone, it is clear we have an inbuilt fear of the unknown and a dislike of change, but our minds crave new experiences. We need desperately to

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

feel or do something new… Studies show that dopamine is released when we experience something new creating a chemical reaction, which instead of placating satisfaction, just makes us crave more new experiences. High dopamine levels can cause oxytocin to be released too… yes, that’s the love hormone. Basically, they’re just saying we can become adventure-junkies, but if that’s the case, it explains why, even in the midst of the most amazing technology being available for us to see and hear foreign places, people, art, wildlife and culture, the more we can have, the more we want. So, is Skype having a bad effect on travelling? Not a chance, Skype, Whatsapp and all Social Media is having the exact opposite effect. According to tourism-review.com, between 2009 and 2015, there has been a worldwide increase of travel showing 39% in just six years. People don’t just want to see and hear new experiences on a phone, tablet or computer; they want to feel new experiences and will go further and further, adventuring past the great blue yonder to get a little dose of dopamine, or oxytocin… So, the next time someone asks you, are going travelling? Well, no, I’m falling in love, again and again.

4343

The African Honey Bee The African honey bee (Apis mellifera scutellata) is a subspecies of the Western honey bee. It is native to central and southern Africa. This subspecies has been determined to constitute one part of the ancestry of the Africanized bees (also known as “killer bees”) spreading through America over the past couple of decades. A single African bee sting is no more venomous than a single European bee sting, though African honeybees respond more quickly when disturbed than do European honey bees. They send out three to four times as many workers in response to a threat and will pursue an intruder for a greater distance from the hive. Although people have died as a result of 100-300 stings, it has been estimated that the average lethal dose for an adult is 500-1100 bee stings. Bees can be dangerous to humans, however they produce honey which far outweighs any product that any other animal makes for our harvest. Maybe with the exception of domisticated cows producing milk. From the popular comedy, “The Bee Movie” we see in an entertaining light how necessary bees are for the continual pollination of flowers, and the court case suing humans for stealing honey makes

fun of our history of taking honey “without permission”. In myths and folk medicine, honey has been used both orally and topically to treat various ailments including gastric disturbances, ulcers, skin wounds, and skin burns by ancient Greeks, Egyptians and in Ayurveda and traditional Chinese medicine. Only recently has modern Western medicine begun testing honey for its medicinal purposes. Recent tests using honey in hospitals in Hampshire on babies, new mothers, cancer patients and the elderly for over a year was found more effective than any man-made healing substance. Wounds and ulcers healed within days, while the number of women who suffered infections after giving birth by caesarean section has halved, while using honey. A bi-product of honey, propolis is the “caulk” honeybees use to patch holes in their hives, but recently, scientists have been testing it in the fight against cancer. Propolis has a number of wellknown therapeutic properties, including potent antioxidant and anti-microbial action, and healing, analgesic, anesthetic, and antiinflammatory properties. In the hive, bees use it as a disinfectant against

bacteria and viruses, helping to seal cracks and “embalm” invaders that are too large to carry out. In 2012, researchers from the University of Chicago Medical Center, intrigued by propolis’ anticancer potential, decided to look at one of its bioactive components, caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE), and its impact on human prostate cancer cells. In cells grown in a lab, even small doses of CAPE slowed the growth of tumor cells. And when low oral doses were given to mice with prostate tumors, tumor growth slowed by 50 percent! What’s more, feeding CAPE to mice daily caused the tumors to stop growing, although they returned when the CAPE was removed from their diets. This suggests the propolis compound works by impacting signaling networks that control cancerous cell growth, rather than by killing the cells directly. However, there are at least four studies on propolis’ apoptotic properties, indicating that technically it is capable of directly killing cancer cells, including prostate cancer, melanoma and more, as well. A spoon of honey may well be the new apple!

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

The First Cape to Cairo

By I.J. Larivers

The beginning of 1898 saw two young Englishmen, Ewart Scott Grogan and Arthur Sharp disembark at the southern African port of Beira for what was to be the adventure of a lifetime. Those were the halcyon days of empire and adventure, and Henry Morton Stanley’s epic journey down the Congo river was still fresh in people’s minds – not because it was that recent, but because people lived better lives then, without the intrusion of electronic media, and Great Things were not done all that often. But Stanley commanded what can only be described as an expeditionary force – Grogan’s dream was pretty much a one-man show, and when he visited tribes that Stanley had dismissed as “a waste of ammunition”, Grogan’s party fired nary a round. Ewart Grogan had perhaps the most aristocratic of ulterior motives for his planned trek through Africa from south to north – a woman. He proposed marriage to a young heiress, Gertrude Coleman, but because of her somewhat loftier station in life he first had to prove himself worthy of her hand to her father. Performing the first traverse of Africa from south to north might not have been what the average young gentleman of the day would have chosen, but that’s probably why Gertrude Coleman shortly became Gertrude Grogan. Grogan was no stranger to Africa – he had fought in the 1896 Mashonaland rebellion in Rhodesia – but when he arrived at Beira, it was ostensibly for a protracted big game hunting safari. Not that there was any great need for secrecy, but Grogan’s plans were ambitious and failure was not an option. It is, in fact, probable that Sharp himself wasn’t even in on Grogan’s secret. Just as well, too, for Sharp was not made of the stuff that Grogan was, and eventually abandoned the venture, balking at the prospect of the Dinka swamp country in the southern Sudan. Although he had journeyed to Cape Town for the onset of his expedition, Grogan’s real push began on 28 October, 1898, when he marched north from the Zambezi river. They at last came to Lake Tanganyika – where they were beset by myriad tropical diseases from malaria to heatstroke – having explored the mountainous Chiperoni area and contributed immeasurably to the cartography of the region. From there they proceeded along the Rusisi The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

45A river mapping largely uncharted terrain. They were also mindful of the growing German expansion in the region, to the detriment of the less martial Belgians. Gertrude Coleman aside, this was basically a sporting expedition. Grogan was one of those who made a list of things he hoped to achieve in life when he was young. Hunting lion, rhinoceros and elephant were on that list, as was travelling to Tanganyika. These were major motivating factors. Having said that, Grogan traversed country that was either unknown or had been scantily surveyed in years gone by, and the scientific merit of his expedition cannot be taken lightly – his maps and descriptions of the changing geography of the region came to be definitive. A case in point was “Mount Mfumbiro” which was demarcated on the maps of the day and had been used as a reference point in British-German negotiations; Grogan found that the mountain itself was an urban legend. North of Lake Albert, as Grogan approached the vast and uncharted Dinka Swamps – the Sudd region, which had so confounded Sir Samuel Baker – Sharp opted for greener and less inhospitable pastures, and Grogan pushed on alone, in the company of thirteen natives. Grogan pressed on for some four hundred miles through the swamps, persevering with his cartography and naming one obscure channel the Gertrude Nile. Eventually, reaching Sobat, he was more or less out of the woods. When he stepped onto the railway platform in Cairo in 1900, he had completed a truly formidable endeavour, virtually single-handed. Without the fanfare, the rest of the world was ignorant of his true goal when he arrived in Beira. A large expedition under Major Gibbons completed the traverse a few months after Grogan did, but after it still was. The young Frenchman Lionel Décle, who had acquitted himself admirably during the Dreyfus scandal in France also set out to make the traverse, also with

a large party, amid much publicity and with a generous bequest from Cecil Rhodes himself. Décle’s journey also followed in Grogan’s footsteps, and he died in 1907 at the age of 48, without the great things before him that Grogan had. Cecil Rhodes recognized Grogan’s accomplishment in a flattering letter from Government House in Bulawayo in 1900 that read, in part: “I must say I envy you, for you have done that which for centuries has been the ambition of every explorer; namely, to walk through Africa from south to north. The amusement of the whole thing is that a youth from Cambridge during his vacation should have succeeded in doing that which the ponderous explorers of the world have failed to accomplish. There is a distinct humour in the whole thing. It makes me the more certain that we shall complete the telegraph and railway, for surely I am not going to be beaten by the legs of a Cambridge undergraduate. Your success the more confirms one’s belief. The schemes described by Sir William Harcourt as ‘wild cat’ you have proved are capable of being completed even in that excellent gentleman’s lifetime.” Grogan’s expedition contributed a wealth of new information on the ethnology and geography of Africa, as well as being a personal achievement of a lifetime. Grogan went on to become Colonel E S Grogan, DSO, and although quaintly acknowledged by modern Kenya journalism as a “notorious colonial” – one of those evil entities who brought things like law and order, education, medical care, electricity and running water to the Dark Continent - he continued to contribute to the development of East Africa for many years, in the business and political arenas, on numerous occasions pulling off grandiose plans and projects that his detractors had said would be his downfall. As befitting his tenacity and audaciousness, he died at the appropriately respectable age of 92 in South Africa in 1976.

The Cape to Cairo Railway is an uncompleted project to cross Africa from south to north by rail. This plan was initiated at the end of the 19th century, during the time of Western colonial rule, largely under the vision of Cecil Rhodes, in the attempt to connect adjacent African possessions of the British Empire through a continuous line from Cape Town, South Africa to Cairo, Egypt. While most sections of the Cape to Cairo railway are in operation, a major part is missing between northern Sudan and Uganda. The concept of the Cape to Cairo Railway is not dead, but the current turmoil in Sudan forms, an obstacle to its completion. That said, tangible concepts have been forwarded to complete the link between Sudan and East Africa for economic reasons.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

â&#x20AC;&#x153;If I know a song of Africa, of the giraffe and the African new moon lying on her back, of the plows in the fields and the sweaty faces of the coffee pickers, does Africa know a song of me? Will the air over the plain quiver with a color that I have had on, or the children invent a game in which my name is, or the full moon throw a shadow over the gravel of the drive that was like me, or will the eagles of the Ngong Hills look out for me?â&#x20AC;? - Karen Blixen

Have Africa

Will travel

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

From before history was written down... from a time when the Nile was the centre of the world, Africa has been a place of mystery, a place of survival, a place of truth. There is still no easy access, no guarantee, no promises of what you will or will not experience, but it is what makes Africa exciting; an adventure. From the furthermost tip, where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean to the Northern edge, only 35 minutes by ferry away from Spain, there are 30.22 million square kilometres of adventure awaiting any daring traveller, hence we simply say... Have Africa, will travel.

Emirates Fly New Route

As of February 1, Emirates is to increase capacity on the Zimbabwe and Zambia route by replacing the current Airbus A340 300 that serves the route with a Boeing 777 300ER, offering a further 97 Economy Class seats per flight. The route, which departs from Dubai, will see an increased capacity due to this replacement aircraft type in order to meet the growing demand on the route into the African countries. The route has been in operation from Dubai to Harare via Lusaka since February 2011. “As Emirates we are constantly seeking ways to enhance our services, and the upgrade to the Boeing 777 300ER on the Lusaka/Harare route is part of our commitment to offer Zambian and Zimbabwean travelers even more comfort and entertainment on our daily service,” said Orhan Abbas, Senior Vice President, Commercial Operations, Latin America, Central and Southern Africa, Emirates Airline. The news will benefit Zambia and Zimbabwe, which both have limited connectivity to markets outside of the continent. Both countries have been improving their aviation in recent years; following declines in the area. “We are also able to offer more seats, ensuring capacity

to meet growing demand on the route, not just outbound from Zimbabwe and Zambia, but also inbound from the United States, UK and Australia, as we continue to build and strengthen trade and tourism links between Zimbabwe and Zambia with markets in the rest of Emirates’ extensive global network, through seamless and convenient connections via our Dubai hub,” added Abbas. The deployment of the new aircraft will mean that Emirates’ southern African network will be an all Boeing 777 operation with the type already deployed on flights to Durban, Cape Town and Johannesburg in South Africa, and Luanda in Angola. With aircraft retirements the Boeing 777 forms the backbone of the Emirates fleet with 155 aircraft in service and a further 190 on order.

Zika To Affect 2016 Olympics

Experts are gearing up to monitor the spread of the Zika virus to enhance public health at the 2016 Olympic and Paralympic Games in Brazil and to deal

with possible outbreaks in Africa and southern Europe, according to a review published in International Journal of Infectious Diseases. The international team

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

49 that prepared the review is gathering information to assess the risks of Zika. They warn that the virus could endanger people attending the 2016 Olympic Games in Rio de Janeiro. The review highlights not only Brazil, but also Europe and Africa. Zika was first noted in Uganda’s Zika Forest in 1947, and there are fears that it could return to Africa and spread to Europe. While primarily transmitted by mosquitoes, Zika has been isolated from semen, implying sexual transmission, although how frequently this occurs and how long the virus persists in semen is not known. Only 20-25% of people with

Zika are symptomatic, so many will not realize they have been infected. Residents of non-affected areas may be at risk if they travel to affected countries or if they have unprotected sexual contact with someone who has recently returned from an affected area. To ensure safety during the Brazil Olympic Games, pregnant women are advised to avoid traveling to affected areas, where possible, and those who travel or live in such areas should take measures, such as wearing long-sleeved shirts, using insect repellant and staying in screened or air-conditioned accommodation.

Green is the New Black

As the world becomes more and more aware of what is going on in other countires, mainly shown by the ability to communicate using tools like Social Media, the trend is going toward responsible ecotourism. EcoBusiness News gives a few tips on ecotourism: There are many ways to be a conscientious traveller, and it doesn’t always have to require weeks-long commitment to one destination nor involve a fully-facilitated eco-tour complete with a detailed itinerary. If travelling by air, you can consider participating in a carbonoffsetting scheme offered by such airlines as KLM, Qantas and United. The Climate Neutral Now

programme is another resource with ideas on how to cancel out emissions that you create from your trip. Finding eco-friendly accommodation is much easier these days with travel sites offering green alternatives. Airbnb, for one, offers various collections of such accommodations including It’s Easy Being Green and Urban Farms, where hosts have to ensure that their homes adhere to strict guidelines that embrace sustainability and an environmental conscience. TripAdvisor offers a similar programme where hotels and bedand-breakfast owners can apply to be certified at various levels of “green-ness”, ranging from

Bronze to Platinum statuses in their GreenLeaders Program. Customers can choose from a vast catalogue to suit all budgets in different locations. Consider the effects of washing detergents and energy inputs when planning laundry. Africa is generally a dry continent, and many lodges and hotels request guests consider re-using their towels or other linen, as needlessly changing them daily during your stay increases one’s footprint. Try to minimize your own laundry requirements. Finally, no matter what kind of vacation you end up taking, you can support the local communities by staying, using, buying and renting local.

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Univisa for Southern Africa

The Republics of Zambia and Zimbabwe have just completed the Pilot Phase of testing the Kaza Univisa, which both the countries have been issuing at their borders. The Pilot Phase has been in testing since January 2015, completing a full cycle of the travel seasons just this past January. The experiment on the whole was a good one and positive remarks from travel companies in both countries reflect this. The two countries are currently in talks with Angola, Botswana and Namibia with the intention of all five countries issuing one univisa in the near future. This will make a tour into Southern Africa much simpler as it will not be necessary to have different medical reports

or even different forms for the univisa. The only sticking point is to find a middle line where the univisa is not too expensive if one only wants to travel to one of the above countries and not all. The countriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tourism boards are fighting hard for the well-being of the traveller and good intercountry visa connections. Watch this space!

A New Way to Travel Africa

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no longer enough to learn about wildlife or other countries in your classroom - when the world is small enough to experience it yourself. Conservation Travel Africa is a programme that was established to provide meaningful and responsible volunteer and student travel experiences throughout Southern Africa. Instead of seeing the wildlife from a game drive or walk, they have their volunteers join anti-poaching patrols and wildlife management teams, or do scuba diving to help marine

research... There is no shortage of well-planned, safely executed volunteer travel work available. They hope to inspire a new adventure type travel which includes learning and the ability to handle wildlife and the environment in a short time. Associated with some of our largest volunteer operations in Africa, this new form of travel is definitely an adventure not easily compared with any other. For more information, go to: www.conservationtravelafrica.org.

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

5151

African Travel Requirements For ease of travel plans, we have put together a comprehensive guide of visa requirements for Southern African countries. Below are a list of requirements for all African countries, however, when there are extras or noted differences, they have been listed under the country in question. These details may be revised from time to time by relevant authorities and it is wise to check details before travel.

All Common African Visa Requirements: • Passport which is valid for at least six (6) months -to be submitted along with the application form. • Completed application form duly signed. • Copy of flight itinerary • Two Passport size photos, 5cm x 5cm (2” x 2”) • Visa Fees

Angola Exemptions: All countries except Namibia require a visa to visit Angola. Additional Visa Requirements: One is required to have an international certificate of vaccination, an original and photocopy of passport (the main pages and those containing information on migratory movements), a photocopy of ticket to the Republic of Angola, with a return and a guarantee of means of subsistence, equivalent to US$200.00, for each day of stay in national territory, under the terms of Article 19(1) of Law 2/07 of 31 August. Visa Fees: Payment of $141.00 per applicant. Notes: Angola has an online visa application readily available Resources: www.visaangola.com

Botswana Exemptions: All Citizens of Commonwealth countries do not require visa except those from Bangladesh, Ghana, India, Nigeria, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. Additional Visa Requirements: One is required to have copies of marriage certificate, birth certificate, and ordination certificate (for pastors). Visa Fees: A non-refundable fee of P500.00 (approximately US$50.00 depending on the exchange rate of the day) per applicant

Notes: Botswana requires physical application form at your local embassy. Resources: www.gov.bw/Ministries--Authorities/ Ministries/Ministry-of-Labour--Home-Affairs-MLHA/Tools-Services/Services--Forms

Ethiopia Exemptions: All citizens of Djibouti (3 months) and Kenya (1 year) do not require a visa to visit Ethiopia: Additional Visa Requirements: None. Visa Fees: Multiple Entry US$169.00. Notes: Ethiopia requires physical application form at your local embassy. Resources: www.ethiopianembassy.org/ConsularForms/ VisaApplicationForm.pdf

Kenya Exemptions: All citizens of the following countries do not require a visa for Kenya as long as the stay does not exceed 90 days: Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Brunei, Burundi, Cyprus, Dominica, Ethiopia, Fiji, Gambia, Ghana, Grenada, Jamaica, Kiribati, Lesotho, Malawi, Malaysia (30 days), Maldives, Mauritius, Namibia, Nauru, Papua New Guinea, Rwanda,

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

52 Specializing in inbound Travel within Southern Africa (Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia & Zimbabwe). We are your One Stop Shop for all flight, accommodation, activity bookings and we tailor make packages to your needs. Love for Africa is able to package single travellers itineraries, friends travelling together, families, groups & incentive travel too. We are also a professionally recognized MICE handler (Meetings, Incentives, Conferences & Entertainment).

FITs, Corporate & Incentives & Family Travel Experts

Tel: +263-13 46005 Fax: +263-13 46004 Mobile: +263-779 555 505 res1@love-for-africa.com, res2@love-for-africa.com

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

53 Samoa, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, San Marino, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa (30 days), Swaziland, Tanzania, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Zambia, Zimbabwe. Citizens of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya can travel freely between their respective nations by using the National Identification Cards due to the East African Visa Policy. Additional Visa Requirements: None Visa Fees: US$50.00 For Single Entry (Tourist/Visitor/Business) US$100.00 For Multiple Entries (Tourist/Visitor/Business) US$20.00 For Single Transit of not more than 3 days for travelers on stopovers in Kenya while proceeding to other destinations US$100.00 East Africa Notes: Kenya has an online visa application readily available Resources: http://evisa.go.ke/evisa.html

Malawi Exemptions: Antigua & Barbuda, Ireland, Namibia, Swaziland, Bahamas Gambia, Israel, Nauru, Tanzania, Barbados, Jamaica, Northern Ireland, Trinidad & Tobago, Belize, Kenya, Samoa (Western), Tuvalu, Botswana, Kiribati, Seychelles, Uganda, Dominica, Lesotho, South Africa, Zambia, Fiji, Malaysia, St. Kitts & Nevis, Zimbabwe, Grenada, Mauritius, St. Lucia, Hong Kong, Mozambique, St. Vincent & The Grenadines. Additional Visa Requirements: One requires a copy of sponsor’s Residential Status in Malawi (i.e. Permit or Malawi Passport if Malawian) Visa Fees: Transit (7 days) US$70.00 30 days single entry from date of issue US$100.00 6 months multiple entry from date of issue US$220.00 One year multiple entry from date of issue US$300.00 Notes: Malawi requires physical application form and all required documents should be sent in duplicate to the Consular section at the Embassy. Resources: www.malawiembassy.org/en/consular/ Visaapp.pdf

Mozambique Exemptions: Botswana, Malawi, Mauritius, South Africa, Swaziland, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe Additional Visa Requirements: One requires hotel reservations for Mozambique. Visa Fees: Single entry up to 3 months US$239.00 Multiple entry up to 3 months US$259.00 Resources: http://embassyofmozambique.be/index. php?option=com_content&view=article&id=79&Itemid=275 &lang=en

Namibia Exemptions: The following countries are exempt from VISA application: Angola, Ireland, Norway, Australia, Italy, Portugal, Austria,

Japan, Russian Federation, Belgium, Kenya, South Africa, Botswana, Lesotho, Singapore, Brazil, Liechtenstein, Spain, Canada, Luxembourg, Swaziland, Cuba, Malaysia, Sweden, Denmark, Macau, Switzerland, Finland , Malawi, Tanzania, France, Mauritius, United Kingdom, United States of America, Germany, Mozambique , Hong Kong, New Zealand, Zambia, Iceland, Netherlands, Zimbabwe. Additional Visa Requirements: Visas & Fees are case specific, please check with the website below for more information. Resources: www.namibiatourism.com.na

South Africa Exemptions: Please view the following link to see exemptions on visa requirements for South Africa: www.southafrica-newyork.net/ homeaffairs/visaexempt.htm Additional Visa Requirements: When applying to South Africa, one has to show sufficient funds to pay for your day-to-day expenses during your stay, medical cover for your stay, a return or onward ticket and yellow fever certificates if your journey starts or entails passing through the yellow fever belt of Africa or South America. Visa Fees: Payment of US$36.00 per applicant. Notes: South Africa requires physical application. Resources: www.dha.gov.za/index.php/applying-for-savisa

Tanzania Exemptions: Botswana, Gambia, Ghana, Hong Kong , Kenya, Lesoto, Malawi, Malaysia, Mozambique, Namibia, Swaziland, Uganda, Zambia, Zimbabwe. Additional Visa Requirements: None. Visa Fees: US Passport holder US$100.00 Non US Passport holder US$50.00 Notes: Tanzania requires physical application form and the government requires proof of yellow fever vaccination upon arrival if you are traveling from a country with risk of yellow fever. Resources: www.tanzaniaconsul.com/visa.html

Zambia Exemptions: Nationals of all Commonwealth countries do not require visas to enter Zambia except for those nationals from Australia, Britain, Canada, Gambia, Ghana, India, New Zealand, Nigeria, Sierra-Leone, Pakistan, Papua New Guinea and Sri-Lanka. Additional Visa Requirements: None. Visa Fees: Single Entry- US$50.00 • Double Entry- US$80.00 Multiple Entry- US$80.00 • Transit- US$50.00 Day Tripper- US$20.00 Notes: Zambia has an online visa application readily available. Resources: https://evisa.zambiaimmigration.gov.zm/

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

Zimbabwe Exemptions: Antigua & Barbuda, Aruba, Bahamas, Barbados, Belize, Botswana, Cayman, Congo (DRC), Cyprus, Fiji, Grenada, Hong Kong, Jamaica, Kenya, Kiribati, Leeward Island, Lesotho, Malaysia, Malawi, Maldives, Malta, Mauritius, Montserrat, Namibia, Nauru, Samoa (West), Singapore, Solomon Island, South Africa, St Kitts, St Lucia, St Vincent & The Grenadies, Swaziland, Tanzania, Trinidad & Tobago, Turk & Caicos Islands, Tuvalu, Uganda, Vanuatu, Zambia Additional Visa Requirements: Copy of any previous Zimbabwe Visa (if any) and a proof of

residential Status in country of origin. Visa Fees: Single Entry visa US$30.00 â&#x20AC;˘ Double Entry Visa US$45.00 â&#x20AC;˘ Multiple Entry Visa US$55.00 Notes: Zimbabwe has an online visa application readily available. Tourists will be issued a Kaza Univisa for Zambia and Zimbabwe. Resources: www.evisa.gov.zw

The African Adventurer Magazine Issue 1 | First Quarter 2016

5555

Campfire Tales

I will soar with the eagles

By Paul Meyer

The mist drapes over the valley like a silken shroud gently suspended, enhancing the surreal view and adding to that mystic quality with which the Zambezi Valley abounds. The panoramic scene is one to cleanse your soul, to reach the very heart of you, and the troubles of your mind seem to diminish and relinquish their hold. The breathtaking sight before you, a patchwork quilt of green tree canopies, the occasional baobab seeming to hold a botanical superiority while bearing a silent witness to the seasons, and far to the north an indistinct chain of broken mountains. If the hazy view should happen to find you worthy, and the warm sun consider your appreciation and find you deserving, you may enjoy a glimpse of the reflections of the mighty Zambezi River as it twists and turns following its ancient course. From the west at the extremities of oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vision a majestic range of mountains, hide from view the Kariba Dam wall which holds back the mighty waters harnessing that vast expanse, which when released feeds the Zambezi winding its way through varying ecosystems and myriad environs all playing host to countless species, each different habitat supporting faunal communities which in the gentle hand of nature coexist, not always peacefully, but nonetheless each playing a part in the gentle balance of nature. This amazing passage of water is often considered by some to the north of us to be a barrier, but to the inhabitants of our beautiful valley is a protective moat, a measure of safety, and an amazing source of food and sustenance. How often I have stood on the rim of the valley, admiring the view, enjoying the feel of the warm breeze against my body, savouring the very essence of the land; how often I have marvelled at the wondrous beauty that abounds from the valley itself. The interlinking game trails, passages to and from territories of hidden splendour of bush-choked gullies with tangles of jesse, to open areas of grassland, to at last the flood plains and that pulsing river, but always a plentiful representation of our wildlife; an irreplaceable wealth which once lost could never be retrieved.

How often have you travelled the road to the north and not stopped, not taken the time to appreciate your surroundings? If you have not savoured these treasures you have not lived; to stand in the wind that lifts the eagles in their flight, to hear the indignant chattering of a flock of guinea fowl as they scatter before a heard of elephant, or to experience the thrill of hearing a leopardâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rasping call, or to come face to face with a contemptuous buffalo, again I tell you that you have not lived. We are each blessed with but a single life time, a God-given right to use and abuse as we see fit

E: africanadventurer@mag-set.com | W: www.africanadventurer.com

56 but far too often it is a gift squandered, unutilized and wasted. Some feel that the pursuit of other pleasures have more attractions, and we each may need the time to find the true contentment of our hearts, and we are even plagued by our own troubles which can wrestle with our happiness like demons in our souls, but it is at times like this that the Valley can soothe and heal your distress and strife, and in the face of adversity can smooth the pathway to happiness. As I reminisce and reflect on past visits to the Valley, I am filled with longing, an intense desire to return which will soon be fulfilled but I am troubled. How much longer will this paradise be accessible to us? It is of great concern to all of us for many different reasons. Are the powers that be who are prone to using powerful terms like guardians, or custodians of our heritage (often to justify decisions that are not to the benefit of said heritage), going to offer our land to foreigners and fall victim to avarice and the almighty dollar? It is ourselves, the descendants of this mighty land who hold it in highest esteem, who hunt, fish and above all cherish the Valley and what it has to offer, that will suffer the agony of loss. To be denied access to our own country with the treasures that it holds. As surely as the river will continue its path to the ocean, and its waters will shift its sands to change the channels as its whim decides, the future of our Valley is at stake, and our right to that Valley is in jeopardy. How much longer can we look forward to visits in the Valley and be privy to the enchanting marvels that nature displays before us with no reservations, whether it be a basking crocodile, or the privilege of watching the fascinating birth of any animal, or even the chance to experience one of the resplendent sunsets for which our beautiful land is so well known. These, and many more of the astonishing facets that make up a typical Zambezi Valley day, are the most addictive experiences that many of us have been honoured enough to enjoy, and the gods are indulgent enough to let us admire them each day. Have I ever sat back and thought that one day these opportunities would not be available to me. Until now, no. The realization has finally dawned on me, that impending loss fills me with dread, an all-consuming feeling that is almost painful. Have you ever lost

something so precious that your whole world rocks? I lost a friend whose loving disposition captured all around him, his smile was for all around him with no exceptions, his heart was so filled with love that everyone who came in contact with him shone in an almost ethereal light. I remember well the tickle of his beard, and the powerful embrace of his massive arm on my shoulder, his magical ability to make my children laugh, and his gentle nature that would help through troubled times. Tragically, now he is gone. To a better place I am sure, for his qualities must certainly have earned him a place at Godâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s side, but our lives are now filled with an incredible void which is difficult to bear. It is a loss of this magnitude, which delivers such a crippling blow and makes one realize that our lives on this earth take up a short moment in time, and a paradise such as the Zambezi Valley should be enjoyed by all, treasured and cherished for generations still to come. Our children and theirs must have the chance to savour the experiences that we have often taken for granted, to make that rewarding acquaintance with what our beloved land has to offer. Hopefully, I will still have many more years to enjoy the Valley, and I am sure that the thrill of that first glimpse and then the breathtaking view from the road winding down the escarpment and then to the floor itself will never diminish, but if perchance my time here should be cut short, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll beg my loved ones not to weep, but rather to scatter my ashes across that beloved Valley and let my soul be free. I will soar with the eagles in the warm Valley winds, I will lurk in the jesse with the defiant buffalo, patrol the Valley alongside the majestic lion and experience the thrill of his mighty roar, I will stand with the elephant bull as he slumbers in the midday heat. I will sit with the leopard on the mountain top while he surveys the Valley and I will follow the flocks of Egyptian geese as they fly, calling noisily above the river in their formation. So Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll beg your tolerance and the next time you visit the Valley and see a green Land Rover parked on the verge, stop with me and enjoy the view. There will always be a few cold beers in the cold box and the Valley could weave its own special kind of magic in your heart too.