January 22, 2012
STNMAST2008
South Africa
In association with
2
South Africa
‘We’re all Africans’: Desmond Tutu
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
A world of experiences — all in one co untry
Playing world-class golf South Africa’s first golf course was created in 1885, and today there are more than 600, designed by such heroes of the green as Gary Player and Jack Nicklaus. Top courses include Leopard Creek,
Luxuriating in the bush The exclusive game lodge Royal Malewane, adjacent to the Kruger National Park, is popular with the likes of Bono, Elton John and Nicolas Sarkozy. It is renowned for refined interiors, fine
Durban Country Club, Pearl Valley, St Francis Links, Pecanwood and Royal Johannesburg, but the Links at Fancourt, created by Player, ranks among the country’s top three — and is his personal favourite. The resort’s two luxury hotels,
wines and gourmet cuisine, as well as having the Big Five on its doorstep. And its revamped bush spa, with heated pool, spa bath, steam room, gym and treatments featuring local botanical oils and mineral-rich spring water, makes it
situated in mountains near George in the Eastern Cape, with a spa, make it popular with golf widows, too. Five nights’ B&B at Fancourt start at £1,835pp, including BA flights, transfers, and one round on the links.
the most luxurious bush hangout in which to relax after lion-spotting at dawn. Three nights at Royal Malewane cost from £3,825pp, full-board, including British Airways flights, game drives, drinks and a massage.
My diverse, delicious land Desmond Tutu finds beauty, history and sheer joy all over South Africa
I
recently had the opportunity to travel the length and breadth of my country for the production of a television series called The South African Story. It gave me the chance to visit places I had not been to before and to really see, for the first time, this magnificent land in all its glory — from the top of Table Mountain to the banks of the mighty Limpopo. The first word that comes to mind in summing up the journey is “diversity”. South Africa is a large country, with
a wide variety of landscapes, topographical features and climates, from arid to temperate bushveld to tropical. Diverse vistas, diverse people, diverse cultures, diverse experiences. Diversity is good: imagine if we all looked the same, followed the identical cultural practices and lived in a uniform environment. The second word is “beauty”. I don’t have the words to do justice to the view from God’s Window escarpment in Mpumalanga, the sight of waves crashing through the Hole in the Wall
on the Transkei’s Wild Coast, the giant baobabs on the savanna in the north, the sun hitting the sandstone cliffs at Golden Gate in the Free State, the serenity of Kirstenbosch botanical gardens in Cape Town... The third word is “history”, starting at the Cradle of Humankind near Johannesburg, where the story of the origin of our species unfolds. What a fascinating place to visit, and to learn that no matter how we look or where we come from today, we all originate in Africa. We are all Africans. Our history is painted in ochre on cave walls from the Cederberg Mountains in the Western Cape to the heights of the Drakensberg in KwaZulu-Natal. It is shouted from the rooftops of some of the finest examples of colonial architecture in the southern
hemisphere, from Pietermaritzburg to Grahamstown, and from Pretoria to Cape Town. Our triumph over apartheid is narrated on Robben Island, in Johannesburg’s Apartheid museum... through the statue of President Mandela at the gates of Victor Verster Prison whence he so famously walked free. The fourth word is “delicious”. Each part of the country has its own culinary character, from Cape Malay to West Coast seafood to Durban curry. Our fruit is of such good quality that most of it is exported — as is much of our seafood. Our wine route, in the Boland region of the Western Cape, is truly something to savour. And the biltong and venison from the bushveld is a delight. And then there are the people. South
Africans are justifiably proud of their country and themselves. Although many still live in extreme poverty, and although apartheid was struck from the law books just a short generation ago, there is a remarkable absence of bitterness. The magnanimity of our people was arguably the single most important ingredient in our miraculous transition to democracy. South Africa will take your breath away. Don’t take my word for it. Pay us a visit and see for yourself. God bless you, Emeritus Arch Desmond Tutu. n For further information about South Africa, contact South Africa Tourism on 0870 1550 044, southafricatourism.net
Seeing the other side In racially segregated times, Soweto (South Western Townships) was where Johannesburg’s black majority was forced to live. Today about 1.3m free citizens still live there by choice, in homes ranging from slums to millionaires’ palaces. A day trip (joburg.org.za/ soweto) provides an insight into locals’ lives and their struggle for equality, taking in Vilakazi Street, where Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu used to live, the church where the banned ANC met, miners’ hostels, museums dedicated to national heroes — and perhaps a shebeen for lunch. Three nights’ B&B at the stylish Saxon hotel in nearby Sandhurst start at £1,830pp, including BA flights, transfers, and a half-day tour of Soweto.
22.01.12
3
Springboks in the Western Cape
Enjoying views from the top of the (Cape) world Table Mountain, occasionally clad in an impressive cloud “tablecloth”, is Cape Town’s most iconic sight. A cable-car trip — unmissable — whisks guests from foothills to flat peak, where views (and sunsets) are spectacular across the city and its beaches. The peak is
least crowded from 2pm to 4pm, although nature-lovers might enjoy a guided walk at noon: the mountain has more than 1,500 plant species growing on it, and creatures from rock hyraxes to elusive eland. Five nights’ B&B at Kensington Place boutique hotel on the lower slopes start at £1,410pp including flights, car hire and a cable-car ticket.
Scenic drive Although the Garden Route heading east from Cape Town remains the most famous of South Africa’s drives, the less-known Route 62 (route62. co.za), which runs 850km from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth, is growing in popularity. Winding between spectacular gorges, quaint towns, orchards and farmland, it passes through Paarl and Robertson, near the Cango Caves and ostrich farms of Oudtshoorn, the surfing beaches of Jeffrey’s Bay — and dozens of other places to relax, hike, balloon, canoe, see art and sample local cuisine. An 11-night self-drive holiday along the R62 starts at £1,735pp, including BA flights, car hire and B&B.
Take the savvy travel option
S
outh Africa is one of the easiest African countries for British travellers to visit. An overnight flight away (with a one- or two-hour time difference) and English-speaking, the country has well-maintained roads, frequent internal flights, high-quality accommodation and excellent food. In fact, there’s almost too much choice, which is why booking through a well-connected and experienced tour operator can be a wiser option than taking pot luck on the internet. It also helps to have a local contact to sort out problems, says Lungi Morrison, UK head of South African Tourism. “South Africa offers so many choices, so most visitors arrive at one airport and leave from another, with complex arrangements in between. When you’re dealing with those sorts of logistics, it’s useful to have a specialist on hand who understands the nuances and can sort out hitches for you.” We assume that booking through an operator is more expensive than doing it yourself online, but this is not necessarily the case, explains Frances Geoghegan, managing director of Africa Travel, a South African travel specialist. On flights, for instance, her company has preferential status with British Airways, “so we get seats far cheaper than you can buy online, when sold as part of a package”. Africa Travel also has good car rental and hotel room rates because it books so many each year — so seven nights at Kensington Place in Cape Town in May with BA
flights cost £1,375pp through Africa Travel and £1,550 if booked directly. Payment is Atol-protected and most operators take a 20% deposit with the remainder paid eight weeks before departure, whereas online bookings must usually be paid in full at the time. People still like the personal touch. An operator can establish a client’s budget and tastes, recommending accordingly: for example, for a stay in Cape Town choosing between the One & Only hotel and Four Rosmead, a boutique guesthouse; or for honeymooners on safari, a canvas bushcamp at Thornybush or a chic retreat such as Royal Malewane. “What a good operator does is get to know their guests,” Geoghegan says. “There’s no point in us sending children to Kruger National Park if their parents don’t want them to take malaria tablets. We’d recommend the Madikwe, which is easily accessible via Johannesburg, or the Eastern Cape. “What also gives operators such as us an edge is that we have an office in Cape Town,” she adds. “When a client wanted to see art in Cape Town, we got a gallery opened at night for him. That’s something you couldn’t arrange on the internet.” The content of this supplement was devised in conjunction with Africa Travel and South Africa Tourism. All the holidays featured can be booked through Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk)
4
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
22.01.12
5
Cape of good food Chef extraordinaire Heston Blumenthal treks from the Fat Duck to Franschhoek
I
was barely out of my teens the first time I went to South Africa, and I have visited the country almost annually since then. My most recent trip there was in May last year, when I was invited to Cape Town for the Good Food and Wine Show, and even though the visit was hectic I still found time to have some really great meals. Many people realise now that South African produce is exceptional, whether fruit or fish, meat or vegetables. Much of it is organically grown in rich soil in a great climate, while the grass-fed beef tastes exactly as it should. As for the fish, what can you say except that it’s as fresh as it is possible to be? I remember years ago sitting on Fish Hoek beach near Cape Town with my dad, looking out across the sand to the ocean while eating plain grilled crayfish, and I can still remember how they tasted. What we know in England as crayfish aren’t the same — the South African saltwater crayfish are like small lobsters and have all the succulence of really fresh shellfish. And even better, they only cost about £2.50 each at a beachside cafe. It’s odd how memories of food stay with you. The first time I visited the Cape, I came across guavas and guava juice, which I had never seen or tasted either before, and for ever after that guavas reminded me of South Africa — even though they’re originally a tropical fruit from America. It is one of the great joys of food that it can root you in a time and place. I still remember my first taste of waterblommetjiebredie (a hearty winter stew made with lamb and the wild Cape hawthorn) and bobotjie (spiced mince baked with an egg topping) — foods that belonged to the place where I first ate them. South African cooking has changed and evolved over the years, as cooking has
Dining with a view at Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch, left; a plate at Cape Town’s Test Kitchen, above
everywhere, and is getting better and better. There are exceptional restaurants there that would be fabulous wherever you found them. I had a great meal, for instance, at Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch, where the chef, Christiaan Campbell, produced a meal with what I can only describe as refined gutsiness, while his use of vegetables was superb — beetroot carpaccio, garden vegetable pappardelle, mushroom ragout. We also had a terrific dinner at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel at Constantia, where every course was perfectly balanced. And of course we ate at the Test Kitchen at the Old Biscuit Mill in Cape Town, which belongs to my friend Luke Dale-Roberts, a truly fantastic chef. His approach to food is very modern because he has this ability of putting seemingly incongruent ingredients together in such a way that they work amazingly well — which is something close to my heart. Highlights included beef fillet
and smoked bone marrow with his take on Chinese spicy seafood XO dressing and crispy salad, or a pan-fried line fish with roasted corn purée and prawn Chinese-style dumplings with toasted garlic and ginger velouté. Luke’s instincts and knowledge are of the moment. What I particularly admire about his food is that he understands how important acidity is in a dish. We all know the importance of sweet and salt in a recipe, but it is the acidity of such ingredients as vinegar or lemon juice that creates mouthwatering appeal and accentuates the top notes in any dish. There are now so many good chefs in South Africa that I have a job catching up, but I always try to see Margot Janse and Susan Huxter at Le Quartier Français in Franschhoek. Margot is a fantastic chef and is constantly driving the Quartier to new levels of quality with Susan, its owner. If you look back at British restaurants in
Consumer’s guide to the top Cape Town Chef Peter Tempelhoff showcases the freshest of local ingredients with flair and imagination on the slopes of Table Mountain at the Greenhouse at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia. His tasting menu is a seven-course delight featuring such concoctions as a Madagascan prawn and avocado nori-roll rice tuile, wasabi cream, and ponzu “snow”; a Fynbos smoked ostrich tartare; a wild mushroom agnolotti with roast sweetbreads, and a camembert cheesecake with roast pineapple ice cream. It costs £45, plus £21 for matching wines (00 27-21 794 2137, cellars-hohenort.com). Right in the city at the Old Biscuit Mill, another award-winning chef, Luke Dale-Roberts, opened his latest restaurant, the Test Kitchen, in 2010. There is an easy-style kitchen bar where individual dishes such as sake-steamed scallops or
his signature truffle and foie gras egg are served, but it is his five- or eight-course tasting menus that are creating waves. Dale-Roberts has developed a vegetarian tasting menu that offers dishes such as truffle-scented poached quail egg with asparagus, peas and sweet garlic custard. Five courses cost £35 (£47 with wine pairing), while eight courses cost £44 (£59 with wine). Individual dishes are starters from £4.40 and main dishes from £7.50 (82 229 5667, thetestkitchen.co.za). Reuben Riffel, of Reuben’s restaurant in Franschhoek, now has a branch at the Robertson Small Hotel in Robertson. Dishes include classics with a twist such as tandoori-roasted kingklip, a deep-sea fish from the Southern Ocean, served with lemon cream and caramelised aubergine and salsa. Starters cost from £3.50, mains from £8 (23 626 7200, therobertsonsmallhotel.com).
the 1980s, our chefs were cooking French food, whereas now they are all cooking their own cuisine with a wide variety of influences. That’s what has happened in South Africa, too — after all, the country has so many historical influences, from Cape Malay to Portuguese to French to its own indigenous food. One of the most exciting things now about South Africa is this new-found confidence in its own flavours. The great wines help — many of them on a par with top international labels. Over the years I’ve seen how South African winemaking has changed; for a while, some of the more earthy vintages lost a bit of character as they chased international markets, but they are back to producing really interesting wines. It’s well worth dropping in to some of the boutique wineries for a tasting. I’m a particular fan of the distinctive and characterful labels coming from Eben Sadie’s winery in Swartland, and
Heston Blumenthal, top, is a big fan of boutique Cape wines, above
tables for gourmet getaway
In Franschhoek, the Pierneef à La Motte on the La Motte wine estate is fast establishing itself as a must-visit restaurant. Chef Chris Erasmus has developed a refined and elegant version of traditional home-cooked Afrikaner farmhouse produce. A force in the slow-food movement, Erasmus is passionate about local, organic ingredients. Starters cost from£2.75, mains from £9.50 (21 876 8000, lamotte.co.za). Other restaurants to try while in and around the Cape include two in Stellenbosch: Rust en Vrede (21 881 3757, rustenvrede.com) and Overture (21 880 2721, dineatoverture.co.za). Johannesburg Australian-born chef Nancy Kinchela is bringing all the knowledge and style of her international career (stints in London, Dubai and Kuala Lumpur) to the best of
those of Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek. What is happening with the chenin blanc grape at Badenhorst in Swartland, where cousins Hein and Adi Badenhorst use unirrigated vines planted in the 1960s to make natural wines in the traditional manner, is also very exciting. My father once had a fruit farm in Franschhoek and my sister, who has been in South Africa for 25 years, now lives nearby in the idyllic village of Greyton. It’s one of the most beautiful areas I know, which is why I nearly bought a restaurant there a few years ago. In fact, I was within half an hour of making it mine when the deal fell through. It obviously wasn’t meant to happen then: I came back to England and started on my own restaurants. But I still think of the place, that lovely valley surrounded by mountains, with Cape Dutch architecture everywhere — it’s probably where I want to retire.
South African ingredients at the Saxon hotel in the suburb of Sandhurst. Favourites include pheasant gnocchi with trumpet mushrooms and confit of lamb shoulder with truffle potato purée. Three courses from £30 (82 784 6645, saxon.co.za). Other restaurants to choose from include Signature Restaurant in Sandton (87 940 3880, signaturerestaurant.co.za); Wall Street Restaurant in Sandton (11 784 6425, wallstreetrestaurant.co.za); and Sel et Poivre in Morningside (11 884 9037, seletpoivre.co.za).
Classics with a twist: Reuben Riffel’s stylish branch in Robertson
n Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk) offers gourmet holidays to South Africa. An eight-day trip, including two nights’ full-board with game activities at Royal Malewane, one night B&B at the Saxon, two nights’ B&B at the Robertson Small Hotel and three nights’ B&B at the Cellars-Hohenort, starts at £3,745pp, including BA flights and Budget hire car
Pumpkin cheesecake at Pierneef à La Motte
6
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
22.01.12
7 NIGEL TISDALL
Bewitched by the majesty of Karoo Nigel Tisdall sees the Samara reserve’s brave vision unfold
T
here’s a sign at the entrance to Samara Private Game Reserve that asks drivers to slow to 40kph — and “leave the speeding to the cheetahs”. It’s a witty reminder that in this 28,000-hectare sanctuary, a few of these vulnerable bullets of the bush are now lucky enough to live in regal isolation. Two hundred years ago, the Great Karoo — the stark, elemental semidesert that covers a third of South Africa — teemed with wildlife. There were leopard, rhino, hippo, wildebeest, buffalo and the now extinct Cape lion and zebra-like
quagga. Early travellers wrote of millionstrong herds of migrating springbok. Hunting, farming and settlement put paid to all that, but at least here in one brave corner of the Eastern Cape the destruction is being reversed. Founded 15 years ago by the UK-based conservation philanthropists Sarah and Mark Tompkins, Samara is a vast, pioneering reserve formed of 11 reclaimed farms where wild cheetah have been successfully reintroduced, along with other species including giraffe, eland, kudu, white rhino and Cape mountain zebra. Just drive north from Port Elizabeth, over the Klein Winterhoek mountains, and you reach an uplifting world of empty roads, big skies and historic towns with streets built wide enough to turn around an ox cart. If you want to tour in South Africa and go beyond Cape Town and the Kruger, it could now be time to heed the call of the Karoo. Be warned, though. The gates to Samara should also carry the sign “Please adjust your mind-set”. It is one of the five largest
private eco-reserves in South Africa. There are no tour groups, no minibuses, no traffic jams at the waterhole. What’s more, there’s no mobile phone signal, no television and no bright lights after dark — just the massed flickering of hurricane lamps and a night sky like a shower head of stars. The reserve accommodates a maximum of 38 guests, spread over three locations. There’s the luxurious Manor House, with towering jacaranda trees and a 21-metre swimming pool. Karoo Lodge is a colonialstyle home with antique riempie furniture and leopard tortoises that power across the lawns like dowagers chasing afternoon tea. Or there is the Mountain Retreat, a rustic Victorian homestead overlooking the remote Valley of the Bushman, where enigmatic Khoisan paintings from thousands of years ago lie hidden in the rocks. This is a reserve where guests get their own private piece of Africa to play in, but it is only now that this visionary project is coming to fruition. The Tompkinses are
Seaside gems Eastern Cape is the second largest of South Africa’s nine provinces, yet the least explored by international tourists, though its reputation as the birthplace and current home of Nelson Mandela is certainly putting it on the map. It’s an easy self-drive destination, malaria-free and good value for money, with 800km of unspoilt coastline. Stylish and luxurious resorts and lodges are opening up to take advantage of prime locations on the stunning coastline and the area’s year-round warm climate. Here are three of the best. BOUTIQUE LUXURY Relaxed and free of traffic jams, Port Elizabeth is a gateway to both the Garden Route and Eastern Cape’s safari reserves. Here you’ll find the boutique Singa Lodge, where each of its 12 individually designed, opulent suites is separated from the others by tropical gardens. Outside, there’s an
open-air lounge close to a sunken swimming pool, with an intimate poolside cocktail bar. Dinner is served in the private dining room, or guests can dine — and relax with a massage — in the privacy of their suite. WILDLIFE AND BEACH Oceana Beach & Wildlife Reserve in Port Alfred is only a
Oceana Lodge
two-hour drive from Port Elizabeth, yet it feels far more remote. Here, guests can enjoy a laid-back beach and bush experience. The resort has a 7km private beach and animals can be spotted from the veranda. Sometimes whales and dolphins can be sighted, too. Game drives are part of the experience.
Oceana’s suites and chalets have handcrafted furnishings and artefacts, huge beds, bathrooms with walk-in showers, whirlpool baths, large lounge areas, satellite television, DVD players and wi-fi, as well as private wooden decks. The resort has an Africashaped swimming pool,
Stars of Samara: a cheetah, a bull kudu, zebra, the Manor House and 28,000 hectares of wildlife to explore
striving to do nothing less than rehabilitate a complete landscape. Farms have been closed, fences ripped up, the land left to become a paradise of centuries-old shepherd’s trees and rampant spekboom, whose name means the “bacon tree” on account of its fat leaves. The vastness of Samara means that guests as well as animals have a rich variety of habitats to enjoy. Vervet monkeys are having a swinging time down in the valley bushveld. Troops of baboons yomp across the savanna. Bat-eared foxes are busy tunnelling under the Nama Karoo. Up on the plateau grasslands, gnus, zebra and blesbok are grazing in the evening sunlight. Once you get deep into the Great Karoo, time takes on a new meaning: 240m years ago, this was a massive swampland — something similar to what is now Botswana’s Okavango Delta. It was in Karoo towns such as Cradock and Graaff-Reinet that the Afrikaners prepared for their Great Trek of the late
100 km
SOUTH AFRICA
Samara game reserve Karoo
Eastern Cape
Graaff-Reinet
Chintsa East
Klein Winterhoek Mountains Port Elizabeth Port Alfred
East London
1830s. The great missionary Livingstone called the latter “the prettiest town in all Africa”. It rests on a horseshoe-shaped bend in the Sundays River, a 50-minute drive west of Samara. Elegant Cape Dutch and Victorian buildings gather round a Dutch Reformed church, while beyond lies the
a five-hole putting green, pétanque and a games room. Among the relaxing activities available are stargazing, fishing, golf, canoeing and birdwatching, while a tour of Nemato — Nelson Mandela Township — can also be arranged.
tucked away in the bush, as well as yoga, Pilates and meditation, a steam room, sauna and gym. Activities include surfing, hiking, horse-riding, tennis, golf, fishing and birdwatching, and there is 21km of deserted beach to explore.
SPA RETREAT Prana Lodge Private Beach Estate & Spa in Chintsa East welcomes guests over the age of 16 and has only seven suites, each with private garden and plunge pool. There’s an infinity pool with lounge and bar, further lounges and gourmet dining. It also has a Thai spa and wellness centre offering tailor-made therapies such as facials, massages in pavilions
n Africa Travel (020 7843
3583, africatravel.co.uk) has a seven-night holiday in the Eastern Cape from £2,225pp, including British Airways flights, three nights’ B&B at Singa Lodge, four nights’ full-board at Oceana Reserve and Budget hire car. Africa Travel also offers a seven-night stay at Prana Lodge from £1,760pp, including BA flights and hire car. For more on the Eastern Cape, see www.visiteasterncape.co.za
Camdeboo National Park. Here the chief attraction is the Valley of Desolation, where sunset views are terrific. Predators that were once hunted are today being treasured, including slinky beasts such as Sibella, a cheetah who has given birth to several cubs and is now a star attraction at Samara. When I go cheetah chasing, I spot Sibella prowling near a dried-up river bed. My guide and I are just 30 metres away — so close, in fact, that when our eyes briefly meet I feel I should say “Hi” and give her my business card. Thank you so much for inviting me, I really love your coat… But luckily I’m no juicy young springbok, so I am instantly dismissed. The new queen of the Karoo is holding court, and I’m just a humble, and very lucky, spectator. n Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel. co.uk) has five nights’ full-board at Samara Private Game Reserve from £1,995, including BA flights and Budget car hire
Prana Lodge
8
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
22.01.12
9
The Strauss family combined wildlife and high living at the Homestead in Phinda
There’s an elephant in our pool England cricket captain Andrew Strauss enjoys a safari-filled holiday with his family
I
was born in Johannesburg and spent the first six years of my life in South Africa, so it was a thrill to go back there recently for a classic bush-and-beach holiday with my young family. It wasn’t just about getting a break from international cricket — I have many happy memories of taking trips with my parents and three older sisters to see the wildlife of the Kruger National Park and play beside the Indian Ocean. This is an amazing country and I really wanted to show it off to my Australian wife, Ruth, and our two boys. Taking small children on safari might sound a bit mad — Sam is five and Luca just three — but South Africa is well geared up for
this kind of adventure. We made things easy by sticking to a malaria-free area, which avoids all the hassle of making children swallow pills, and I ensured we arrived in good shape by booking a 90-minute private charter flight direct from Johannesburg to our game reserve, close to the east coast of KwaZulu-Natal. Thanks to a few local thunderstorms it proved quite eventful, but you just can’t beat seeing the peaks and plains of Africa from the window of a small aircraft. Ruth and I picked a well-established, top-end reserve that knows how to make a family feel they’re doing something adventurous while still being safe and comfortable. Part of the &Beyond collection
of luxury lodges, Phinda is massive — a 23,000-hectare sanctuary with seven distinct habitats that include woodland, grassland and wetland, so there’s always plenty of interesting wildlife to see. Guests can stay at one of six locations that range from mountainside to sand forest. We opted for the Homestead, a four-suite villa with stunning views and a superb team of staff that included our own ranger, tracker, butler and chef. At Phinda, the sense of privacy and immersion in the bush is exceptional. During our entire stay, the only other guests we saw were a few fellow wildlife-spotters out on game drives. The animals, of course, are the highlight and at Phinda they’ve got everything — lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, the endangered black rhino. We also loved the scampering baboons, the yawning hippos and the kudu, which have a white stripe across the face that reminded me of the sunblock warpaint certain cricketers like to wear.
Staying at the exclusive, sole-use Homestead meant all our experiences could be tailored to fit with the family’s dreams (and tantrums). Our personal chef would cook us anything we asked for, feeding Sam and Luca early if necessary and indulging us with all manner of treats, from delicious home-made soups to melt-in-the-mouth venison steaks and a wicked panna cotta. We loved the way we could dine in a different location every night — out on the viewing deck, in the bush with lanterns hanging in the trees, by the boma (enclosure) with a blazing fire. Life here felt very cosseting — yet raw nature was never far away. One afternoon, seconds after I’d been splashing around with Luca, a towering elephant came stomping up to have a drink. The boys and I watched in awe as it dipped its trunk in the pool. It wasn’t just the big animals that caught our attention. Sam, in particular, loved going out with the staff to hunt bugs and learn
bushcraft skills, such as making a fire using just a stick and dry grass. He also went fishing and came back proudly announcing he had caught “a hat trick”. The good times continued when we moved on to the Oyster Box Hotel at Umhlanga Rocks, a three-hour drive south. Close to Durban, this is a place I know well, having visited it in the past with the England cricket team. It’s one of a handful of hotels that stand out for me. It opened in 1947 and sits beside the Indian Ocean, with a striking red and white lighthouse. The style is luxurious and colonial. Last year, Prince Albert and Princess Charlene of Monaco held their wedding reception here. I really enjoyed splashing about in the pool with the boys, and we all found it refreshing to spend some time beside the sea after the heat and dust of the bush. There’s plenty to do, from playing on the beach to taking the kids to uShaka Marine World, a water park in Durban. The Oyster
Box runs a complimentary shuttle to the enormous Gateway Theatre of Shopping complex, plus there are several good golf courses close by and big sports events and adrenaline experiences at the Moses Mabhida Stadium. Head inland and you can extend your trip to visit the soaring mountains of the Drakensberg and important battlefield sites such as Rorke’s Drift and Isandlwana. For Ruth and me, the joy of staying here was the hotel’s family-friendliness. Junior guests get child-size bathrobes, special menus and a small cinema. Best of all, there’s a complimentary children’s club, so parents can get time to relax, too. Interview by Nigel Tisdall n Andrew Strauss and family travelled with Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk). Four nights’ full-board at &Beyond Phinda Homestead, three nights’ B&B at Oyster Box Hotel, all flights and transfers start at £12,990 for a family of four
Join in the action of a Springbok summer
R Rainbow rugby: the Springboks’ fans are passionate
ugby union fans are set to swarm into South Africa in June to watch the new-look England side take on the Springboks in a three-Test summer tour — the first in the tourists’ history — with matches in Durban, Johannesburg and Port Elizabeth on June 9, 16 and 23. “It’s going to be an unmissable Test series, with a chastened England out to prove they are indeed one of the best teams in the world — and without Jonny Wilkinson — after a very disappointing World Cup in New Zealand,” says England rugby legend Lawrence Dallaglio. The Springboks are also undergoing big changes after surrendering the World Cup last year, and will be doing their best to stop the rot.
“South Africans are as passionate about their rugby as we are, so the atmosphere at all three Tests will be electric,” Dallaglio predicts. “South Africa is an awesome country, too. I have visited a few times, and I can’t think of a better reason to go than to witness some first-class rugby.” Africa Travel is offering escorted tours that include match tickets. For example, its nine-night holiday, with tickets to the second and third Tests, costs from £3,300pp and includes B&B accommodation, lunch before both matches and many other meals. Transport will be by air-conditioned, 44-seat coach and the stay includes two nights at the Da Vinci Hotel in Johannesburg, three nights at the Commodore Hotel, Cape Town,
two nights on safari at Kuzoko Lodge in the Karoo region of the Eastern Cape with all meals and game drives, and two nights at the Marine Hotel in Port Elizabeth. There’s more than just rugby. Also on the itinerary is a guided tour of Soweto, with visits to the Hector Pieterson Memorial, the Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital (the largest in Africa), and some community development projects. The trip takes in the Cape wine region, with wine-tasting and visits to the historic towns of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl. A Cape Peninsula Tour incorporates a cruise past the seals on Seal Island, a trip to the Cape Point nature reserve, penguins on Boulders Beach and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.
Four game drives are included in the stay at Kuzuko Lodge. Meanwhile, a platinum trip for only 20 people will include three nights in Johannesburg, three nights in the Royal Livingstone Hotel at Victoria Falls, and four nights on safari at Pumba Game Reserve, as well as the second and third Tests. And on an exclusive, five-star trip escorted and hosted by two former international players — names to be confirmed in the next two weeks — you can fly out ahead of the group to see the first Test in Durban, staying at the luxurious Zimbali Resort. n Holidays can also be tailor-made; contact Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk)
Flying: South Africa’s François Hougaard
10
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
Back to nature for the greatest show on earth Safaris come in many styles and prices, says Lisa Grainger
T
he southernmost tip of the African continent is home to one of the planets most spectacular collections of wildlife. Most obviously, it’s where you go to see lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo (the gang that used to be the biggest attraction to big game hunters, and known for that reason as the ‘big five’) and more than 500 species of birds. And there are animals so rarely seen that some wildlife enthusiasts will spend a lifetime trying to spot them: the aardvark, porcupine, aardwolf and Pel’s fishing owl. With more than 3,000km of coastline, and 21 national parks made up of ecosystems ranging from mangrove to sand dunes, South Africa can offer virtually every sort of safari, for every level of expertise and budget. For seasoned safari-goers, there are private desert camps in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park from which to see cheetah hunt in the sand, meerkats popping out of dusty holes and eagles soaring on thermals. Those keen to see leopard might save up for Londolozi, where the creatures live near camps almost as resplendent as their golden coats. Bird-lovers might head for budget lodges in KwaZulu-Natal, where at St Lucia more than 400 feathered species nest near beaches on which loggerhead turtles lay their eggs. Families can drive to Addo Elephant Park, near Port Elizabeth, to stay in cottages and see great herds at close quarters. Self-drive adventurers should make for
Prize catch: a lilacbreasted roller
Kruger National Park, where tens of thousands of creatures reside in a space the size of the Netherlands, prowling and roaring around the camps at night. Because most South Africans appreciate the outdoors and relish exploring the bush, the range of accommodation is wider here than anywhere else in Africa. National parks offer simple camp sites, farmers have converted old homesteads into cosy guest houses, hip hoteliers have created bush getaways characterised by sleek designs and high-tech toys, and for lovers of luxury there are boutique camps as sophisticated as any urban hotel. Game parks are well managed (it’s a big business, after all) and impressively knowledgeable, eagle-eyed trackers and local guides reveal their country’s natural assets with genuine enthusiasm. Best of all, there’s not really a bad time to visit, although game is best viewed between April and October — the African winter — when visibility is better in the dry bush and when days are (generally) rain-free and evenings crisp. Here are a few suggestions for a South African safari, from camps beloved of rock stars to family-focused retreats.
BEST FOR SUPER-LUXURY Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge, Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, Mpumalanga Architecturally the most dramatic — and the most luxurious — of the four Sabi Sabi camps in a private 65,000-hectare game reserve, this is an hour’s flight or five hours’ drive from Johannesburg — so an ideal first or last stopoff on atrip to South Africa. Sabi Sabi is located in the southwest of the Kruger, in a game-rich area known for Big Five sightings, but it is the luxuries that lure most guests: butler-serviced suites, elegantly minimalist interiors, a private pool, a richly stocked cellar and excellent food, the Amani spa with sculpted earth walls, and unusually comfortable safari vehicles. The furnishings are one-offs, with giant tree trunks transformed into a bar or exotic bedsteads. Sunk into the earth (hence its name), with only the occasional curved wall or dome interrupting the natural landscaping, the camp induces a real sense of calm. Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge starts at £740pp a night, full-board, including drinks, game drives and walks BEST FOR FAMILY SAFARIS Leeuwenbosch Country House, Amakhala Game Reserve, Eastern Cape Before Europeans arrived here, on the easternmost point of the Garden Route, the wilderness was teeming with game: elephants even meandered onto beaches. That’s why, in 1999, six neighbouring farmers decided to convert their sheep farms into a game reserve. Of the seven lodges within the private, 18,000-hectare Amakhala reserve, Leeuwenbosch is the most family-friendly. It was created from an original farmhouse inhabited by the Fowlds family since 1873. Rooms, many with deep verandas, lead onto gardens in which children can play. “Little five” tours enable the very young to get
22.01.12
11
Young hunters: a pack of African wild dogs
hands-on with everything from beetles to tortoises, and nannies are on hand to give parents a break. Activities include boat trips, jeep safaris and guided walks in elephant territory. Meals are relaxed, taken indoors or around the campfire. Best of all, it’s a malaria-free zone — ideal for children. Leeuwenbosch Country House starts at £180pp a night, full-board, including drinks and game activities BEST FOR MARINE SAFARIS Grootbos Private Nature Reserve, Western Cape Two hours’ drive from Cape Town, overlooking a long stretch of white beach-fringed nature reserve backed by majestic hills, this area feels almost untouched by man. That’s the point: the focus at Grootbos is on nature. Both the Forest and Garden lodges were sensitively built using local stone and wood; they are surrounded by a protected botanical reserve rich with fynbos and ancient milkwood trees and overlook seas heaving with creatures. As well as activities such as guided plant walks, horse-riding and bike rides, trips can be arranged to Walker Bay, where boats will take you to see whales on their annual migration (from June to November). There are also sailings to a 60,000-strong Cape seal colony and to sea channels, where the strong of heart are invited to put on a wetsuit, climb into a cage and swim, surrounded by sharks. Grootbos starts at £125pp a night, full-board, including horse-riding, guided walks, and nature, marine and coastal drives BEST FOR A PRIVATE GROUP Royal Private Villa, Thanda Private Game Reserve, KwaZulu-Natal Originally built for the reserve’s owner, Dan Olofsson, this is not only one of the most glamorous bush houses on the continent,
Kruger National Park Johannesburg Thanda & Phinda game reserves Bushmans Kloof Reserve Cape Town
500 km
Grootbos
Amakhala Game Reserve
but one of the biggest. In KwaZulu-Natal, 400km north of Durban, the enormous double-height, thatched space has a prime position on the 5,200-hectare reserve: on a hill, overlooking a waterhole, with five ensuite bedrooms, a library and games room, and even a heated pool (for nippy evenings). The house can be taken only by a private group, and every bit of the stay is bespoke, from game activities and spa treatments to the menus. Local guides are friendly and enthusiastic, there’s a Zulu village for children to learn about the culture, and the reserve is only 40 minutes’ drive from the beach — so it’s ideal for an indulgent family bush-and-beach holiday. Thanda Royal Private Villa starts at £4,350 a night, full-board, including drinks and game drives BEST FOR HONEYMOONERS The Chitwa House, Chitwa Chitwa, Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, Mpumalanga Built as a private bush home by South Africans Charl and Maria Brink in 1991, in the game-filled Sabi Sand, the Chitwa House is about five hours’ drive from Johannesburg (or a 90-minute flight).
Maria is a painter — and it shows. The two-bedroom house has glamorous furnishings and is full of artistic touches, from four-poster beds backed by wall-sized paintings to giraffe sculptures watching over the egg-shaped bath. The house has its own pool, kitchen, living area and deck, and is staffed by its own butler, chef, tracker and guide. There’s a spa on site, as well as a shop filled with tasteful gifts. The Chitwa House starts at £2,255, full-board a night, including game drives, drinks and laundry BEST FOR ESCAPING Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat, Western Cape Situated in the sparsely populated Cederberg Mountains, 2½hours’ drive from Cape Town through beautiful mountainous scenery, Bushmans Kloof is a nature escape, rather than a game reserve. The focus here is on the spectacular surroundings, the waterfalls and rivers. There are hikes (to explore caves rich with ancient San art), and treats to help guests chill out (bicycles, natural pools, hiking trails, kayaks, libraries and a top-notch spa). It’s a place to enjoy healthy, delicious food, indulge in spa therapies using local botanical oils, take long walks through bush thick with winter flowers, to fish, kayak, and simply hang out, taking in the vast African skies. All rooms have verandas and garden views; the private Koro Lodge sleeps six, plus four children, and has its own pool, garden and staff. Bushmans Kloof starts at £160pp a night, full-board, including nature drives, rock-art excursions, botanical walks, canoeing, archery, fly-fishing, hiking and swimming n All safaris can be booked as part of a South African itinerary through Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk), which can advise on the best options for you Wildlife spectacle meets designer chic (from left): whalewatching at the Grootbos nature reserve; giraffes stroll by the water’s edge outside the Chitwa House; inspecting ancient San art in a cave at Bushmans Kloof; and the luxurious Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge
12
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
22.01.12 13
Frans Lemmens
Dizzying: the hairpin in Swartberg Pass
Mountain excitement: the road to Swartberg 100 km
Matjiesfontein
N1 Cape Town Rooiels Gordon's Bay Kleinmond Hermanus
Gamkaskloof Prince Albert Oudtshoorn Cango Caves N2 George
Kogelberg Nature Reserve
Bredasdorp Arniston Cape Agulhas
Eric Nathan
Elegance: the Lord Milner hotel
Natural sculpture: formations at Cango
Take the rocky road to Hell The lost valley of Gamkaskloof is a sanctuary amid magnificent scenery, writes Gavin Bell
T
he road to “The Hell” is paved with gravel and sand, and it winds among scarred mountains that look as if they are screaming. It is a wild and lonely place, but there is a surprise at the end of the road — and an old haunt of the Sultan of Zanzibar along the way. The “lost” valley in the Swartberg of the Western Cape that locals called The Hell is anything but. Its real name is Gamkaskloof, or ravine of the lions, a sheltered swathe of fertile land high in the mountains where a reclusive community of Afrikaner farmers lived for more than a century. It earned its nickname from a livestock inspector who had to trek 15 miles to examine the goats and cattle, long before the road was built. “It’s hell to get to,” he pronounced, and the name stuck. When the road was finally built in 1962, it was hailed as a lifeline for the fiercely independent community. Instead it was a death knell, for within 30 years everyone had left and the valley was abandoned to baboons and prowling leopards. Human life has returned to the valley in
recent years, with the restoration of old farm buildings as self-catering cottages, and a bush restaurant. Yet it remains a quiet, remote sanctuary in magnificent scenery, and getting there and back again is half the fun on an adventurous tour through desert, mountains and coastal hamlets. The N1 highway out of Cape Town winds diagonally through South Africa to Johannesburg and the Limpopo. Considerably closer is a historical gem, on the edge of the Great Karoo desert. In the 1880s, Matjiesfontein was little more than a refreshment room on the way to the Kimberley diamond fields. Jimmy Logan, a young Scottish railway superintendent, acquired the concession, promoted the dry desert air as a health cure, and Victorian society flocked to it. Cecil John Rhodes, Lord Randolph Churchill and the Sultan of Zanzibar were among fashionable guests who rode on the train from Cape Town to Logan’s resort to “take the air”. The faded elegance of the Lord Milner Hotel still dominates its main street,
where Logan installed lampposts imported from London, and once a day a red London bus pootles up and down the road. Off the N1, on a quiet district road leading into the Great Swartberg, is Prince Albert, a sleepy huddle of Victorian and Cape Dutch cottages blessed with a fine old country hotel. This is a Hansel and Gretel village beneath an African sky, and at night — by the light of candles, paraffin lamps and wood-burning stoves — its cottages are the last word in cosiness. It is from here that one of the most dramatic mountain roads in South Africa climbs more than 1,500 metres in hairpin bends to meet the gravel road to Gamkaskloof. The lonely track meanders for 30km over a Tolkienesque wilderness until it plunges down into the narrow green valley, a profusion of mimosa, wild olive and milkwood trees. Baboons roam here, with buck and the kudu, and leopards prowl among them — although these shy, nocturnal predators are rarely seen. There is angling in the river and hiking trails, but most visitors are content to relax and absorb the atmosphere of a place that is more like heaven than hell. A few miles over the mountains, an equally hidden wonderland is said to have been discovered in 1780 by a herder looking for lost cattle. Lowered by rope into a “big
hole”, he found himself in a vast limestone cavern of stalactites and stalagmites formed over millenniums into natural sculptures. The Cango Caves on the road to Oudtshoorn have since been explored and illuminated for guided tours through spectacular galleries dubbed King Solomon’s Mines and Devil’s Workshop. The road back to Cape Town drops out of the mountains to the Indian Ocean at George, then heads for the last foothold in Africa. Many people assume the Cape of Good Hope is the southern tip of the continent, but it’s not. That distinction belongs to Cape Agulhas — the dreaded Cape of Needles, so called by 16th-century Portuguese navigators who discovered too late that their compass needles gave false readings around the point. It is a place to stand and stare at an endless horizon, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans clash in fierce currents, and to wonder at the courage of the first Europeans who sailed past in flimsy ships with no idea of what dangers lay ahead. Fortunately the last cafe in Africa is nearby, along with the most southerly lighthouse, museum and guest lodge. If Agulhas is a landmark, the nearby fishing village of Arniston is a scenic gem. On one side of the bay is a small holiday resort of individual houses by the sea, and on the other is an old fishing village of lime-washed cottages with thatched roofs that has inspired generations of artists. On
both sides the land stretches to far horizons with beaches, dunes and rocky outcrops. The settlement was named after a British troop ship that sank off the Agulhas reef in 1815, and the sea and its moods still dominate the lives of those who depend on it. The local community welcomes visitors with simple tearooms and a craft shop. For more sophisticated treats there are always the elegant restaurant, bars and spa of the Arniston Hotel a few steps away. Not much further, in the town of Bredasdorp, is a map marked with more than 100 red and white circles. Each denotes a shipwreck on a 45-mile stretch of local coastline, and the little museum in which it hangs is a treasure trove of bits and bobs, once proud ships’ figureheads and stirring tales from vessels that were lost over the centuries. There are also lots of whales. In particular, this coast is a tunnel of love for southern right whales that migrate to it every year to mate and calve in the warm, nutrient-rich waters. And they don’t care who’s watching. The resort of Hermanus claims to have the best shore-based whale-watching in the world, with the stately mammals frolicking in view of miles of beaches. The R44 offers a fitting finale to an offbeat tour. From Kleinmond to Gordon’s Bay, it snakes around the hills of the Kogelberg reserve, clings to
rocky shores, and leads to hamlets of free spirits drawn by the beauty of nature around them. Pringle Bay is my favourite, with all the ingredients — beaches, rock pools, headlands and funky restaurants. A few miles further on, Rooiels has one pub/restaurant popular with bikers, providing basic beer and burger fare, and the latest rugby gossip. It is a cheap and cheerful place, a few steps from a small beach of sheltered water. It is from here that the magnificent panorama of False Bay opens up, with the distinctive profile of Table Mountain in the distance. Cape Town is known in South Africa as the Mother City and, at the end of a journey, the rock of ages soaring above it is like a colossal sign saying “Welcome home”. n Gavin Bell is the author of Somewhere Over the Rainbow — Travels in South Africa (Abacus) n Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel. co.uk) arranges tailor-made holidays to the Western Cape. Nine nights, including one night B&B at the Lord Milner Hotel, Swartberg Hotel and Arniston Hotels, two nights’ B&B in Oudtshoorn at the Rosenhof Country House, two nights’ full-board at Grootbos Private Nature Reserve and two nights’ B&B in Cape Town at Kensington Place, start at £1,795pp, with BA flights and Budget hire car
14
South Africa
thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica
Winning treble of adventures
22.01.12 15 John Warburton-Lee
Jo Foley adds Zambia and Mozambique to her itinerary for a hassle-free odyssey
N
ew flight routes, better roads and a proliferation of desirably luxurious resorts and lodges mean that travellers who want to combine adventure and comfort have huge swathes of southern Africa at their disposal. Some of the continent’s most memorable experiences can be linked in a hassle-free itinerary that combines city glitz, natural wonders, wildlife encounters and pristine beaches. Start in Cape Town, the region’s prettiest city. Book in to the five-star Table Bay Hotel and take a seat on the terrace for a panoramic view that takes in the waterfront and the wild Atlantic as well as Table Mountain. Within range of a comfortable day trip are the dramatic coastline of the Cape Peninsula and the wineries and restaurants of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch (see pages 4-5 for Heston Blumenthal’s tips). Once sated by the delights of the Cape, you can head north for Zambia and the spectacular Victoria Falls — less than three hours away on the new direct flight from Cape Town to Livingstone with Kulala airlines. Here, the world’s largest sheet of falling water plunges 108 metres into the Zambezi river: you can hear the falls from miles away as a low rumble, which becomes a roar as you get closer. Stay at the Royal Livingstone Hotel, a colonial-style property with perfectly manicured lawns on the banks of the river. Not only can you hear the falls, but the spray from the cascading water is a constant distraction from your breakfast or sundowner on the terrace overlooking the river. Waterproofs are of little use against the volume of spray on the walkways under the falls, particularly in the rainy season from February to May. During the dry season, in October and November, gleaming black basalt can be seen beneath the water, but the heat makes this an uncomfortable time to visit. A flight by helicopter or microlite gives you a wonderful panoramic view of the falls, including the elephants on Livingstone Island and the bridge that links Zambia and Zimbabwe across the Zambezi. Another quick flight takes you back into South Africa at Kruger Mpumalanga airport, a short drive from Camp Jabulani on the edge of the Kruger National Park. Safaris take on a new dimension here, with guests going on game walks mounted on elephants rescued from Zimbabwe. The first to arrive was an abandoned baby found in a ravine; he was named Jabulani, and this is his kingdom — he may not be as big, as grand or as old as some of the others, but he leads each walk and won’t move until the rest of the troop have fallen in behind him. After dark these extraordinary creatures can plough through the bush silently, their passengers enjoying a far better view than from the back of a Jeep. When you return to camp, you help bed the elephants down for
Royal Livingstone Hotel in Zambia
Aerial view of the Victoria Falls
ZAMBIA MOZAMBIQUE
Livingstone
Kruger Mpumalanga
Johannesburg
Maputo
SOUTH AFRICA Cape Town
Rescued elephants at Camp Jabulani
the night. Your own bedding-down experience is also rather special, for Camp Jabulani is one of the most luxurious lodges in the area, with just six huge, opulent suites, delicious food and perfect service. Africa Travel will arrange a car and a driver to take you from Jabulani to Maputo in Mozambique — a route which includes the green and spectacular Blyde River
500 km
Quilalea island, Mozambique
White Pearl resort suite, Ponta Mamoli
Canyon. Mozambique’s pristine beaches are now home to chic resorts such as White Pearl at Ponta Mamoli, where each suite has an ocean view and its own private plunge pool, or Coral Lodge, which has a nature reserve to one side and the Indian Ocean to another. Its 10 villas are built on top of dunes to get a cool breeze from the ocean. You can explore Mozambique Island, the
Portuguese colonial capital until 1898, and visit two isolated communities where time has stood still, leaving a unique blend of African, Arab and Portuguese cultures. Or stay on Ibo Island, a magical and mysterious place, where Portuguese ships trading with the Far East had to register — there are three forts, 10 mosques, a church, a customs house and a beautiful
18th-century square. On nearby Quilalea Island, 18 guests can stay in the refurbished lodge Azura; there are no other inhabitants. The island is in a protected maritime reserve, and is a haven for nesting turtles. When you board the plane in Maputo for the flight home via Johannesburg, there will be time to reflect on how well three very different countries fit into one holiday.
n Africa Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co. uk) can tailor an itinerary through the three countries to suit individual tastes. For example, it has two nights’ B&B at the Table Bay Hotel, two nights’ B&B at the Royal Livingstone, two nights’ full-board with game activities at Camp Jabulani, and three nights’ half-board at White Pearl resort from £3,995pp, including British Airways flights
16
THE SUNDAY TIMES thesundaytimes.co.uk
22.01.12