Fashion Issue 2015
Celebrating Women of African Heritage
AFROELLE
www.afroellemagazine.com
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Afroelle Magazine is a monthly digital publication celebrating and empowering women of African heritage in Africa and the Diaspora.
FOUNDER & EDITOR Patricia Miswa
PUBLISHER MISWA MEDIA
FOR SUBMISSIONS & GENERAL ENQUIRIES Afroelle@gmail.com
COVER CREDITS Photography by Amina Touray Cover Model: Jihane Sy Designer: Ann-Loiuse Bonsalles Makeup Artist: Niehla O. Assistant: Jerri Graham
Afroelle Magazine is published by Miswa Media copyright Š 2015. All rights reserved.
Contributors
TATENDA K. Writer ZIMBABWE
ASHLEY M. Writer SOUTH AFRICA
AMANDA G. Writer KENYA
i4indie.blogspot.com
ashleymakue.com
amandas-kitchen.com
AMINA T.
MICHELLE A.
Photographer
Writer
Los Angeles
Florida
aminatouray.com
@perfectlywoman
LILLIAN K. Editorial Assistant
Kenya @miss_kimari
SUBMISSIONS If you have a story idea or would like to share your wisdom or insights with women globally email AfroElle@gmail.com with ‘Submission’ on the subject line. Do you know a phenomenal woman impacting their community or making a difference in their field? Simply email their bio and links to their work to afroelle@gmail.com for a possible feature in our upcoming issue. www.afroellemgazine.com | 5
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58 CONTENTS
14 In Her Element - Alache 16 In Her Own Words - Ijeoma Umebinyuo 21 Fashion Gift Guide 30 Conversation with Penny Lebyane 34 Hayet Rida 42 Business of fashion with Fikirte Addis 50 Tips to Help You Take Your Fashion Brand Global 52 Sunkissed Fashion editorial 58 African fashion bloggers you should know 76 In Our Kitchen: Teriyaki Chicken Stir Fry
INSIDE When you have a true loving relationship with yourself, you take better care of yourself, and the people around you, you have a peaceful soul. That is beauty.
Hayet Rida Pg. 34
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I hope you’ll be inspired by our conversation with Plus size blogger Hayet Rita who recently shared her experience of growing up fat in Ghana in a viral article titled the same. Hayet shares with us her views on beauty and the journey to accepting herself. We also talked to South African media and broadcast personality, Penny Lebyane about her love for the media and her vision for Africa's entertainment industries. In our interview with internationally recognized Ethiopian fashion designer Fikirte Addis, she lets us in into the business side of fashion and talks about the fashion industry in Ethiopia and how it fares against the rest of Africa. Find out what it takes to sell international with the ladies from online boutique, Kuwala who share tips to help you take your fashion brand global. All this in addition to our feature of African Fashion Bloggers You Should Know and an easy to make Teriyaki Chicken Stir Fry recipe from our resident food contributor, Amanda Kemoli. This issue would not be complete without our monthly gift guide featuring African inspired brands for every budget and season. Till next time, I leave you with the words of Ijeoma Umebinyuo, "Start now. Start where you are. Start with fear. Start with pain. Start with doubt. Start with hands shaking. Start with voice trembling but start. Start and don't stop. Start where you are, with what you have. Just start." Happy reading!
Founder and EIC
Sami Khan Photography
I
‘m excited to share with your our fierce Fashion Issue! In this issue, we had the honor of talking to Nigerian poet and writer, Ijeoma Umebinyuo, author of Questions for Ada, a collection of prose poems and poems, a bold celebration of womanhood.
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From her very first selfproduced Album “You’re my World” to the album “My Life: It is What it is”, released in 2006, and her most recent album, “Until Now” which was released online in 2010,Alache portrays growth and evolution in her sound. Alache is constantly looking for that “yes” and she has found it yet again and packaged it in her newest album “The Chronicles if the Mrs.” The album is due out in the Fall of 2015 and it will feature the singles “Dream” and “Heaven’s Angels”. It comes out after a five year hiatus from the music scene during which time she got married to her husband Audu and had two beautiful daughters.
ALACHE In Her Element WORDS BY AE & Lillian Kimari
Despite the long break from the music scene, Alache assures her fans a comeback full of wisdom, beautiful stories and so many lessons all portrayed in her new release. “I thought I was grown the last time, but boy have I grown in five years! So much has happened, so much to talk about. I have definitely matured as a woman, as a person and citizen of this world. I entered a whole new school of life these past few years and it has been an interesting ride! I am looking
forward to sharing it with the world. Inspired by Michelle Williams of Destiny’s Child and Contemporary Christian Music artist Rachael Lampe, this Washington DC based Nigerian native was born to an Air force General and a fashion designer mother. Her versatile upbringing definitely influenced her sound having lived in Africa, Europe and America. Her music stands out with its engaging, edgy, and upbeat sound blending beautifully with the very sought after relatable lyrics.
AE: Can you tell us about your musical journey, 5 years later, what life experience inspired you to get back to the music scene? ALACHE: My musical journey has been
such a long time coming. It's been filled with so many challenges and setbacks. But it's also been filled with growth as a woman, a mother, a wife and an artist. I took a break when I got married to start a family and settle into my new life. I have lived through a lot in the past few years and I have grown. With music being my biggest passion aside from God and family, it really was a no brainer coming back.
But I think I'm handling it well, and my family now understands my line of work. Because of course, I have been home the past few years. And this side of my life was not really known to my new family until now. Everyone thought I had given music up to be a family woman. It feels good to be doing all that and the things I enjoy about being a singer/songwriter.
AE: 2015 and beyond- What should your fans expect from you? ALACHE: Seeing me on the road.
Loads and loads of music to come. The sounds are a hybrid of my experience and different genre’s from R&B to soul sounds. I am excited to share it all with the world. And just giving the best of me that I can give to others from an artistic and inspirational point of view.
AE: Are there any challenges you’ve faced with getting back? ALACHE: Well from restructuring my
team. Balancing family life. I would say it just took a little getting used to balance my life as a wife, mum and singer.
www.soundcloud.com/officialalache
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Ijeoma Umebinyuo WORDS BY PATRICIA MISWA
She shares her heart with a deep intimacy and her work is a celebration of bold womanhood. Nigerian poet and writer Ijeoma Umebinyuo started writing poetry when she was 10 years old and this August she released her debut book, Questions for Ada, a collection of narratives. Ada who describes herself as a womanist is a new unique voice in African poetry. She describes writing as ’a softer way to breathe, to feel life move through her again and to understand the madness, joy and the triumph of her existence and the existence of others.” She talks to Afroelle about her new book, why her works speaks a lot about women and her thoughts on feminism. For starters, can you share with our readers a little bit about who you are and where you come and something people don’t know about you? I was born and raised in Nigeria. The one thing I will reveal: When I was a teenager in Nigeria, I used to write love poems for one of my Uncles who was in medical school. He paid me to write for his university girlfriends. My brother just reminded me a few hours ago and we laughed for about ten minutes. You started writing poetry when you were 10, do you remember the first poem you wrote, what was it about? Yes, the first poem I wrote was pretty much imitating the one person who introduced me to writing poems. Adede was older, a family friend who loved to draw marvel comic characters, enjoyed reading and writing.
He told me to try poetry, I couldn’t relate to any poems I had read, but he wrote a piece about the state of affairs in Nigeria. I was permitted to use that poem as an inspiration to write my first poem. I wrote something regarding Nigeria and the educational system. I am sure I used big words found in the thick oxford dictionary we had at home. I used big words to describe a country I did not fully understand her plight. I saved it for years as a teenager in Nigeria. Do you have a favorite poem from your past work? It is hard to pick a favorite but this particular piece comes to mind: “Mother, i have pasts inside me I did not bury properly. Some nights, your daughter Tears herself apart Yet heals in the morning.” www.afroellemgazine.com | 17
prayer. We deny women their right to speak against pain, we silence women and normalize the bottling of pain in our society. There is this idea of a “strong woman” and I write about all kinds of women; the overwhelming and patronizing single narrative of a strong woman silences a lot of women. You know Thank you for your kind words. I the truth, by silencing the stories think of writing as a place where I and narratives of can spill my soul. women, we also do Absolute men a huge freedom in a “ We deny women their disservice. safe house. The right to speak against first time I read pain, we silence women I am passionate the works of about reproductive Ntozake Shange and normalize the rights. The woman and Toni bottling of pain in our Morrison, I felt society. There is this idea body is political, from our first safe. I wrote of a “strong woman” and I blood through life. Love letter to write about all kinds of It is political. I am Adeyemi to say women; the passionate about that even African women in politics women can overwhelming and and how their roles suffer from patronizing single in politics will depression. We narrative of a strong make sure laws deny that woman silences a lot of that do not seek to depression is women benefit the equality real in Africa. of women are cut They told me or re-examined. I am passionate African women cannot suffer from about women owning their depression, so I wrote the truth. We narratives. It is important. deny the very existence of pain that does not heal in years or with There’s something intimate about your words. I especially love Letters to Ada and Love Letter to Adeyemi. I’ve noticed a good number of your work speak about women, why are you passionate about this?
As a feminist, what was going through your mind when you wrote ‘The White feminist and the Black feminist’ I wrote that almost a year ago and it speaks on the double standards I have seen in feminism in the United States as it relates to black women. You see, black women in America not only have to fight for their rights as women but their rights to be seen as human beings. Their femininity seems to be in question. Presently, we can use the case of Sandra Bland. This was a woman who knew her rights and was unafraid to say it. Stopped for the silliest reason, treated like she was not even human. If Sandra Bland had been white, she would never have been stopped, even if stopped, she would never have been arrested, and ended up dead. It is this double standard, the fact that black women in America have to fight twice as hard to be given half as much. Sadly, It seems like a never-ending war. As an African who lived in West Africa, i had to learn the sad truth about racism later in life, I had to understand I was black outside West Africa. In Nigeria, i am Igbo. Just..Igbo.
What does being a feminism, an African feminist mean to you? Just an African who happens to be a feminist, understanding that culture is not an excuse to silence women. I also understand that feminism cuts across class. It is not an elite group of women and men. That my mothers also fought for their rights as women. That as an Igbo woman, we have had ways for women to voice their opinions even before colonization. I carry such histories within me.
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“No matter how far you go, never in your life apologize to anyone for your mother’s head wrap and her imperfect English. Do not tell her to “speak in English” when she wants to speak to you. Do not apologize for how she has not assimilated properly into a country that wants her to become someone else. Do not apologize when her English is incorrect or how she loves the perfumes that remind her of her home country, do not apologize that your mothers are not ‘modern’ women. You fight your own battles, but do not make the mistake of using your feminism and education to compare her progress as a person. You may never understand how hard she has had to fight as a woman.” You recently released your fist published book of poems and prose; can you share the journey leading to this? It was an interesting step forward against pain and heartache. I needed to be softer again. I wanted the pain to mean something. In Igbo, I would say Ije’m amaka which translates to my journey is beautiful; it has been a beautiful and quite excruciating journey. You mention on your blog that you didn’t want a book of poetry to be your first published book, why is that? I was sure my first book would be fiction and not poetry. I did not think this anthology would be my first book. Ovo, a very good friend of mine and an amazing writer convinced me to make this my first book. Now, here we are.
What can we look forward to in your book? Questions for Ada is a collection of narratives on love, colonization, depression, pain, grief, Diaspora, self-care, heartbreak. Love. A safe place.
BUY Questions from Ada on Amazon
Twitter @ijeomaumebinyuo Blog: theijeoma.tumblr.com
Gift Ideas for Everyone and Every Budget www.afroellemgazine.com | 21
Afroelle Magazine’s monthly gift guide features gift ideas for everyone, every budget and every season. If you own a small business, Etsy store or are a blogger and you’d like to advertise your brand, products or services to our global audience in our upcoming September Wedding Gift Guide & Directory Email Afroelle@gmail.com
ON THE COVER Jihane Sy Photography by Amina Touray Designer Ann-Loiuse Bonsalles Makeup Artist: Niehla O. Assistant: Jerri Graham www.aminatouray.com @aminatphoto
www.kuwalainc.com
1. Chipewa Headwrap Vibrant headwrap curated from the bustling fabric markets of Malawi. From winter to summer, this accessory is perfect for all seasons and can also be worn as a neck scarf.
2. Clutch Baako This sleek and colourful clutch is perfect for a night on the town or a sophisticated day look. Featuring flap with a concealed magnetic catch and an inner pocket.
3. 13" MacBook Case Della Protect your MacBook from the elements with vibrant limited edition fabrics.
4. Hexagon L/S Enan This shoulder bag is great for regular everyday use, with ample space for all your things. Featuring two faux leather handles and a zip at the top. Interior pouch compartment with zip. Fully lined.
www.shopfeline.bigcartel.com Shop at Shopfeline for your perfect head wrap and headbands
1. SOLANCE HEADWRAP Mixed print head wrap made from African wax print fabric, and stripe cotton blend fabric is perfect to make a statement.
2. DANA HEADWRAP Black and white cotton blend stripe head wrap can be worn dressed up or down. Perfect to stand out in a crowd
3. SHANI HEADWRAP 100% cotton , 22x72 inches and if you have short hair or do not want too much fabric size 22x50" is available
4. OBI Turban Headband Handmade, 100% cotton , 37" length and wired so headband is bendable
www.facebook.com/NiqueForde 'Ankle Love'
An ankle boot comprising of a mix of African print and a gorgeous soft royal blue leather. Ties at the ankle with a contrasting orange lace. Perfect for dressing up jeans or matching that floaty summer number.
‘Print and Leather’
A classic African print stiletto with black leather heel and cute pink tip. Versatile shoe, suited for work wear, dining and clubbing.
'The wedge over stiletto'
‘Print and Leather’ A slight different take on the African print stiletto. Incorporating a contrasting turquoise leather heel. Suitable for day or evening wear.
A mix of african print and gold metallic leather, complete with pink heel tip. Perfect for that woman that enjoys exclusivity. www.afroellemgazine.com | 25
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African City Bag - 3 handles (1 long, 2 short) black, sliver print This bag has 3 handles can be worn cross-body. It is mad out of a light but durable black cotton mix that can hold a lot of stuff like laptop, shoes, books, groceries etc. And it looks pretty stylish with its silver imprint.
African City Bag large/black 100 % cotton tote bag in black with white handles - 22 African city names printed on both sides.
African City Bag - large/ black with silver print (Limited Edition!) 100 % cotton tote bag in black with white handles - 22 African city names printed on both sides. This tote bag is huge and you can fit anything from your laptop, your trainers, books to groceries in it. And actually also all of these items together
For African bow ties, ties & pocket squares www.sebodesigns.com/collections/all
Nakasero Bow Tie Nakasero is the workplace and playground for Kampala's
Skinny Ties Whether one is going to work, a party, a wedding, or a date, SEBO has a range of prints that can match perfectly with any outfit on any
Ntinda Bow Tie Ntinda is an up and coming Kampala neighborhood that is growing as fast in influence as it is size
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Conversation with
Lebyane On her journey and passions South African media and broadcast personality, Penny Lebyane started her career in 1994 on Jozi FM and went on to host Motswako, an acclaimed women’s talk show and most recently, E-TV’s current affairs programme, Sunrise in an effort to drive Pan-African, womanist, artistic and collaborative content. Throughout her journey, Penny has been involved in multiple projects and campaigns in line with her passion. Her foundation, The Penny Lebyane Foundation was founded in 2012 with the core business of personal development. Through the foundation, Penny offers mentorship programmes at schools and Higher learning institutions for the agenda of bringing light to students in different career fields and affording young people the opportunity to be guided both career wise and on personal development. In 2012 the foundation launched an outreach programme which focused on rural schools in the Bushbuckridge area. The programme started vegetable gardens at six of the schools visited during the outreach on the premise that poverty is a common problem in rural areas and starting vegetable gardens provided a sustainable source of food for the children at the schools. Words By ASHLEY MAKUE www.afroellemgazine.com | 29
What first sparked your love for broadcast and media? Media’s ability to influence in my life; from radio dramas, music, news and information on television to reading about powerful people from all walks of life and places in my favorite magazines and newspapers, somehow l saw myself in those different platforms telling stories, driving conversations and being featured in some way. l was consuming content for as long as l can remember and it was opening up my mind which l enjoyed thoroughly.
Has the love stayed with you? My passion for media has stayed with me through and through even in moments of self doubt- the power and ability it has to empower, educate, develop, create and entertain individuals and communities and change the cause of society at large has never been swayed.
Why did you make the transition from talk to current affairs television? For me content is paramount, l am always in conversations, applying myself at best so l can continually be a student. l have been learning and growing through my work and l wont stop. I always look for ways to stretch
myself and be a catalyst and a conduit for audiences through any format or platform that l am given an opportunity to be on. l want to have a 360 experience.
What do you believe is your life's calling in all that you do? l am called to shine light on things, experiences, stories and people alike as l journey through my own life. l am
an encourager.
What is your vision for Africa's entertainment industries? I envision Africa's Entertainment industry that is interconnected, exceptionally excellent and is a celebration of one people with diverse cultures and powerful global brands.
How far are we from that vision? We are in the foundation phase and about ten years has gone in already, a lot of work is required at this stage to build a solid vision. It is also paramount to share a common vision. There are brands and personalities across the lifestyle, entertainment, sports and business who are already leading their respective fields yet the collective creative force is still disconnected. So it is very sporadic and working on in silos type of approach but the dots are slowly coming together.
You recently participated in the Trek4Mandela 2015 to summit Kilimanjaro, please share that experience with us? Trek4Mandela 2015 to summit Kilimanjaro is the most powerful thing l have done since giving birth to my two precious children. lt was a commitment on my part to push myself to do
something for the #GirlChild that will be a long lasting legacy project. The experience was life changing, spiritually uplifting and elevating at the same time, physically grueling, emotionally and mentally stretching, yet it was the most humbling experience and a reminder that life is breath, without breath there is no life in a human being. So as long as you can breathe, you can do something about whatsoever.
Do you know your next move? August is a very important month for the story of the South African Women so l will be adding my voice to conversations that develop the discourse and drive change as we reflect, rebuild, record and reconnect as nation builders. l am excited to be part of the Spar Women Challenge Race in Pretoria, l will be stepping for keeping the #GirlChild in School Campaign that l summited Kilimanjaro for in July and South African Anxiety and Depression Group. My other moves will manifest in time, Sunrise on E-tv daily is my next move every morning. Twitter: @PennyLebyane FaceBook: Penny Lebyane lnstagram: PennyLebyane www.afroellemgazine.com | 31
On beauty, style and accepting herself WORDS BY PATRICIA MISWA
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Ghanaian born - Chicago based plus size blogger, Hayet Rita, battled with weight loss and weight gain for most of her life. In her recent article, ‘Growing up Fat in Ghana’ she describes the journey to accepting herself as ‘one of the hardest things she has had to do’. “Never did I know that it was possible for someone to be so aware of their physical appearance on a daily basis. Never did I know that it would sometimes be the people closest to you that would watch the demise of your self esteem, and be forced to remain silent in the name of cultural norm.” she writes. Its only when Hayet moved to America that she learned about self confidence and politically correct terms such as curvy and plus sized. In May 2013 she shared her journey to a healthier body through sharing her workout , recipes and gym outfits on #hayetisonadiet. Though she reached her weight loss goal and thought everything else in her life would fall in place, she shares in our interview that she realized that she was still struggling emotionally and wanted people to talk to about the other side of weight loss, the more internal struggles. Hayet uses her blog to not only talk about fashion but to also give her unapologetic thoughts about issues affecting girls like her. www.afroellemgazine.com | 35
What inspired you to start your blog and to write your latest article about ‘Growing up Fat in Ghana”? I have always been a very public person. I initially started sharing my weight-loss story on Instagram and then when I hit my goal I had to ask myself what was next? What people may not have known was that when I lost a ton of weight I thought everything in life would fall into place, but I seriously struggled emotionally. I kept trying to find people who would actually talk about the other side of weight loss, the more internal struggles – how to stop criticizing every inch of your body, how to dress your new body and how to not be so obsessed with your physical body. So I decided to start talking about the things I was going through and how I was overcoming them.
I knew for a long time that I was going to talk about the topic of growing up fat in Ghana. It has been something that has emotionally scarred me and something that has been so hard to let go of. Every time I go home, even after I lost weight people would still be commenting on it. I would always get so frustrated by the fact that I am successful in so many ways in my personal and work life but that was the one thing people would still comment on was my physical appearance. So I decided that I was going to call everyone out on it. Most importantly I didn’t just want the article to be about the negative side of the situation, but also have a positive angle on how to deal with the comments and how to love yourself beyond what people say.
You were very open and honest in the article, what has been the general response from people? Let me tell you a secret. I actually almost did not post that version of the article because I was so focused on how people would possibly take it. I ending up re-writing it three different ways that were more lenient, but It just did not feel like I was telling the whole truth, and I didn’t feel like I was actually healing from it. So I woke up that morning at 6am and posted the honest version and got back into bed scared to bits. The response was so overwhelming, by the end of the day It had gained over 30K views. My phone was blowing up! I got very good responses, mostly from people who grew up with the same or similar situations but were too scared to talk about it. And yes, I had a few people who thought I was promoting obesity but I knew those would come, and honestly everyone is entitled to their opinion so I would read the comments and just keep moving. At the end of the day I sleep at night knowing that this article may have brought even an ounce of change.
“The beauty of insecurities is that when you embrace them, they lose the power to make you feel insecure.”You shared this lovely quote in one of your posts, what is your definition of beauty? Let me get deep for a second. I actually don’t believe that there is a definition of beauty. When you define something you are saying that, that is all it can and should be. Beauty to me is a fluid emotion. It is the outward manifestation of a personal, relationship with yourself. When you have a true loving relationship with yourself, you take better care of yourself, and the people around you, you have a peaceful soul. That is beauty. www.afroellemgazine.com | 37
-Hayet Rida, Growing Up Fat in Ghana
You share a lot of fashion posts on your blog, how would you describe your style? I love when I get this question, because I do not have a style. I change every second. Sometimes I want to be a girly girl, sometimes I want to dress like a boy, sometimes I want to wear pajamas outside my house. Most importantly I would say my style is just a reflection of my emotions at any given time. I do not keep up with trends, and I also do not care about people’s opinion of what I wear, or if something matches. Your blog also has great advice on accepting yourself, beauty, self confidence, so what advice or tips can you give to someone who is trying to gain their self confidence and own their bodies?
Webiste thathayetrida.com Facebook thathayetrida Instagram
This will sound crazy, but you have to fake it till you make it. Make yourself confident, get up everyday and do what is absolutely going to scare you. Confidence does not arrive in a perfectly sealed envelope. You have to push yourself. But another thing is that you need to have tough skin. The most important thing about confidence is never losing it no matter what anyone thinks.
@hayet.rida
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Fikirte Addis Words By TATENDA KANENGONI
Fikirte Addis is an internationally recognized Ethiopian fashion designer who has been showcasing her creations since 2009 when she helped organize a fashion show to raise awareness about child labor in the Ethiopian textile industry. Using her background in Psychology, Fikirte transformed her experience working with children and love of design into a fashion label with an ethical backbone. Yefikir Design, her label, focuses on keeping indigenous Ethiopian textile knowledge alive while providing culturally inspired, cutting edge yet modern wear for the modern woman. Working with weavers in Chencha in Southern Ethiopia, Fikirte sources only the most ethically produced Ethiopian hand woven fabrics, ensuring no child labor is used in the process. Fikirte has been acknowledged and respected as a designer both locally and globally. Locally, she was one of the nominees by the Association of Women in Business in Ethiopia as a Woman of excellence in 2012. From winning the Origin Africa Fiber to Fashion award in Mauritius in 2010 to a standing ovation at Africa Fashion Week in 2011 to being named the second African brand to watch in 2013 by Zen Magazine, Yefikir has been catching the attention of global audiences. Fikirte’s designs are reflective of her passion researching the rich and diverse cultural heritage of Ethiopia. With her innovative blend of ethical, traditionally inspired collections with a modern touch, Fikirte has had the opportunity to showcase her work locally and across the world including African Fashion Week in New York, at the International Day against Child Labor in Prague as well as the Ethical Fashion show in Paris. www.afroellemgazine.com | 41
You have a background in psychology, can you tell us about this and how you’ve managed to fuse design into it. Prioritization is the key. My brand, my volunteering work as a psychologist, and most importantly, my family is a lot to juggle. So having great and supportive people around me along with a good time management helps me to maintain the balance of things. Psychology and designing are actually complimentary. Psychology helped me understand people and the social implications of human interactions; that translated into advocating for the establishments of many socially responsible production systems like child labor free products, ensuring fair payments and also creating job opportunities for mothers. Psychology is an important part of my life. It has made my life better and broadened my understanding so it affects how I relate to people I work with positively.
Did you enter the fashion industry as a hobby or for business? Can the two be separate? In the beginning, it was a hobby. I made a habit of modifying clothes and experimenting with different designs back when I was in high school. It was only after I had given birth to my first child that I decided it was time to translate my talent and learnt skills into business. So Yefikir
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I usually say that I am a designer and a business woman and I strongly believe in working with other people. Every success story can be traced back to the smallest contribution made within a team. ************************** Design made its official debut in 2009 and I have to say that along with hard work, the years have been kind to me. Hobby and business are two different things; because you cannot make money off of a hobby. However, with the right input, you can turn your hobby to business. I usually say that I am a designer and a business woman and I strongly believe in working with other people. Every success story can be traced back to the smallest contribution made within a team, and thus, I have been lucky and strategic in surrounding myself with great people both in and out sourced. We need to focus on what we do best and allow others contribute as well. I myself, wake up every morning with a smile and all passion because I do what I love to do. So in a way, you could say that both hobby and business are sitting on the same tree in my case.
Can you tell us about the fashion industry in Ethiopia and how it fares against the rest of Africa in your opinion? Along with globalization and the modern corporate world, the fashion industry in Ethiopia is growing and becoming more versatile now more than ever. I believe that taking some essence from the culture and adding bold creativity into it to bring out a unique specimen has helped Ethiopian fashion enhance. Our clothes are mainly couture and custom made rather than the ready to wear and mass produced ones, now the fashion industry is evolving and also finding its niche in handmade international fashion. Ethiopia has more cultural fashion trends compared to the fashion worlds of the rest of Africa. Fortunately, the new trends across Africa are creating a better stage for cultural, political and economic exchanges and experience sharing where we bring fresh ideas to the international fashion. I also stress in inter African exchanges where we can source fabrics and also build bigger productions for the international as well as local markets.
Please tell us more about the Ethiopian dress. Ethiopia is a land of wide diversities of over 80 ethnic groups and that much many cultures. Although wardrobe varies from place to place depending on the weather conditions, legends, heritages and so and so reasons, the production system is more or less the same in the sense that all fabrics are hand woven. Other pertinent works are also done by the hands of the highly skilled and gifted crafts people with embroideries and crochets being on the top of the list. The more labor intensive Ethiopian dresses are very vibrant made with much attention and beauty to be truly cherished.
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Yefikir Design creates clothes that are modern interpretations of the traditional Ethiopian dress. Is this precisely the inspiration behind each piece you make?
every Ethiopian culture distinct and intriguing so I try to cover a different area every time. And as an artist, you can never tell when an incident or moment hits and inspires you. But, when it is time to Most create a definitely. I new have collection, I always find out as been much as fascinated possible by the about the diverse culture, the Ethiopian people, the cultures area and and their every different other dressing pertinent styles. That detail. That is a very of course crucial part includes of my going to work. I the actual always place and make sure taking a that my few days designs to borrow maintain and live that very I always make sure that my designs maintain their lives. thin that very thin balance between being Albeit, the balance traditional and modern. Ethiopian between culture being being my prior inspiration, I also get traditional and modern. I have always had the closeness and the exposure to inspiration from other things around me like nature for example and my the culture and the fact that I live in designs are my interpretations of the Ethiopia helps me stay true and connected to my roots. I find each and world.
You’ve showcased your designs at Africa Fashion Week in New York, what role if any did being on such a platform play in enhancing your clothing line? The first thing was getting international exposure and finding out that there is a huge potential market and fashion appetite for traditional Ethiopian clothes. So getting into that network was valuable. Secondly, it gave us the opportunity to give the best of Ethiopia to the rest of the world. Thirdly, it gave me a great learning experience; I learnt different cultures, new ways of working both as a designer and as a business woman. But most of all, I got to see how art and fashion bring all the diversity of the world into one humbled and harmonized oneness enforcing a positive impact on the world.
What message do you have for aspiring female designers, particularly those operating in a challenging economy? Briefly put, the first thing I would say to them is find out what inspires you.’ That thing that motivates you and your heart drums to, and once you do, find a workable way to get to where you aspire. Most of all, find your own voice for it is the key way to staying unique in this industry. Love for hard work and creativity will make things more beautiful as art is the most peaceful way of conveying message to the world and I know we can shape the world and
inspire people to live better.
On which platform (s) do you sell your clothes? Currently, our main sales platform is our store located in Addis Ababa at Meskel Flower, but we are undertaking major steps that will enable us to partnership with big stores outside of Ethiopia; be it exporting raw traditional textiles or finished and ready to wear clothes. We are also at the final phase of launching an on-line shopping platform which will take the whole selling-buying process to a new level.
What has been the highlight of your career to date? Well, if I had to pin point on certain things, I would say that the first one was being successful in establishing a sustainable and ethical value chain where the main focus is ensuring that the production system gives forth products that are child labor free and ensuring fair payments. Secondly, it was getting the opportunity to represent the positive image of Ethiopia along with its beautiful culture in all its glory on big international stages. Of course every day remains a rewarding one as I enjoy the creation of beautiful designs and products.
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When people think of a fashion designer they see beautiful art form reflected in the designs crafted. But there is a business side to things. Please take us through the following, with regards to the business side of fashion: Setting up the business, how capital intensive is it? It is easier to set up business in Ethiopia although fairly capital intensive. One can enter the business arena with whatever knowhow they can manage to put together, whatever money at their disposal, some courage and a lot of passion and determination.
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Profitability and sustainability
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Ensuring that your fashion brand stands out amongst others
In my line of work, profitability and sustainability can be tricky. The labor intensive production process along the value chain is very costly. Making money while being fair to the customer and all the human resource involved especially when ethical and high quality production is a priority is tough.
There are three key secrets behind that. The first is ensuring there is a strong story behind your brand and every design, the second is following a strict quality production process and investing in it without limitations; relevant trainings, proper machineries etc. And last but not least, make sure that you stay unique, original and fresh. Longevity There is never a bed of roses in life, but if you have passion and love for what you do, it will hold you strong and see you through the ups and downs. In this industry, you will have to deal with many formal & informal sectors involved and that might require you to be strategic as well as patient.
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Model Photo Credit: Kyle Lamere Make up: Elizabeth Neish Ethnic Photo Credit: Mesay
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Words by Veronica & Freeda of Kuwala
Kuwala is an online boutique that curates unique and exclusive pieces from socially responsible African fashion brands. We offer fashion conscious consumers with beautifully hand-crafted pieces from talented fashion designers and ethical women’s cooperatives based all across Africa.
At Kuwala, our aim is to provide a platform for dedicated fashion designers in Africa to sell their beautiful pieces globally. As a result, we often receive many emails from both established and emerging designers from all wanting to be represented on our website. There are certain things we look for from prospective designers before we make our decision. Whether you’re interested in selling on Kuwala or another e-commerce website, here are some tips that can help you stand out: Submit requested information If you would like to sell your designs with an online retailer, like Kuwala, make sure you do your research on what information they require from you. If you can't find the information on their website, send them an email simply asking how to apply.
Adopt high quality standards As a fashion designer, it’s important to continue to work on improving your craft. In the fashion industry, quality is always important. From straight stitching to consistent sizing, make sure your garments are made to meet international quality standards.
Be Original . If you are serious about pursuing a career within the international fashion industry, make sure your designs are original. This will help you to stand out in an industry that can be very competitive.
Have an Online Presence From a website to social media accounts,
these days it’s important to have an online presence in whatever industry you work in. Social media makes it free to showcase your brand to the global market. Setting-up a beautiful website has become easy and cost-effective. However, avoid looking like other brands and make sure what you post represents your unique designs and values. Capture High-Quality Images Whether you have a website or you’re utilizing a social media platform to showcase your work, make sure your images depict the details of your garments or accessories. Hiring a professional photographer can be expensive, but these days beautiful product images are achievable with the latest smart phones. We hope these tips are helpful as you continue to grow your fashion label globally. Interested in working with Kuwala? Check out Kuwala’s New Designers page for more information on how to apply to sell on our website. Good luck! www.afroellemgazine.com | 49
Photography by Amina Touray Cover Model: Jihane Sy Designer: Ann-Loiuse Bonsalles Makeup Artist: Niehla O. Assistant: Jerri Graham
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TOP: Forever 21 SKIRT: Cherahani Dreams
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NECKLACE: Senegal Market TOP: Forever 21 SKIRT: Cherahani Dreams
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African Fash
hion & Style www.afroellemgazine.com | 57
Tanzanian born currently in Seattle BLOG:
fashionbyanita.com @fashionby_anita HER STYLE
Class and simplicity always-that's what I strive for. BEST FASHION ADVICE RECEIVED
"Wear what makes you happy." Your clothes speak to who you are, and we know that trends come and go. So wear what you want!
Zimbabwe born, currently in Canada
BLOG: www.lion-hunter.com @misslionhunter STYLE INSPIRATION Bright colors and off-thewall prints inspire my style. The freedom to express oneself without saying a word also drives me to really hone in on my aesthetic. I'm forever on the hunt for unique pieces to add to my closet. BEST FASHION ADVICE Follow your bliss is a life mantra I live by. It applies to my style as I wear things that make me absolutely happy. If I'm happy about how I look, there's a confidence that sprouts out and puts me in a better position to chase after the things I want . www.afroellemgazine.com | 59
Milan, Italy BLOG: demuredenike.com @theadenike STYLE INSPIRATION My style is inspired by so many things e.g. Other stylish women, trying out new things etc but the first thing I take into consideration is comfort STYLE TIP The most important tip to me is "if you cannot think of 3 ways to wear a particular outfit, do not buy it" it will save you a lot of money and a lot of closet space. Plus you get creative.
New York BLOG: simplicityngrace.wordpress.com @simplicityn.grace STYLE TIP The best advice anyone has given me when it comes to fashion is to embrace my shape, to dress according to it, and to love every inch of my self. By doing this I'm able to look great and feel great in things that I wear. www.afroellemgazine.com | 61
BLOG: paintinginpink.com @tammyjacobus STYLE INSPIRATION Africa inspires me and my ever changing style sense on the daily. Freedom, Liberation and Diversity are all things that my personal brand represents. BEST FASHION ADVICE My mom has influenced my fashion sense more than anyone really. She's always encouraged me to wear my clothes with confidence and I think that's without a doubt the best advice I have ever gotten.
United Kingdom BLOG: artbecomesyou.com @artbecomesyou
STYLE INSPIRATION I find inspiration in lots of things. Street style, art, and even nature. The flamingo amazes me and I am drawn to it's bright colour. My style is very colourful. FASHION ADVICE Do not blend in. Or restrict yourself. I gained a new found confidence once I stepped out of my comfort zone.
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Kharkov, Ukraine BLOG: modavracha.com
@modavracha STYLE INSPIRATION A lot of things inspire my style really, my mood, location, movies, fashion history, people I see on the streets everyday and so on. FASHION ADVICE Always be yourself, wear whatever makes you comfortable regardless of what the rest of the world is wearing. Recycle pieces in your wardrobe for different looks, no need to buy completely new outfits regularly.
BLOG: ofunneamaka.com @ofunneamaka STYLE INSPIRATION I am inspired by clean, crisp, minimalist silhouettes. I also love mixing masculine and feminine pieces together. My fashion idol is Rihanna , without a dou bt. FASHION ADVICE Splurge on statement items that are unique and can be work in different ways and save money on your basic items. www.afroellemgazine.com | 65
London but originally from Nigeria BLOG: jtofashion.com @j.t.o STYLE INSPIRATION I'm inspired by outfits I see worn by women on the street which I often try to put my own spin on. I also get a lot of my inspiration from fashion magazines including W and Harper's Bazaar. FASHION ADVICE Confidence is the key to effortless dressing. Always remember that you can only pull of an outfit it you appear to be sure of yourself and comfortable with what you're wearing.
London, UK BLOG: twynkleloves.com @twynkleloves STYLE INSPIRATION My mood inspires my style. I never restrict my fashion choices because of trends or popularity, I go with what feels and fits right and as a style blogger and fashion stylist, I believe it is my role to be daring, versatile but mostly true to myself. FASHION ADVICE "Do you!". It's as important to be yourself in fashion as it is in life because confidence, no matter what, will always shine through.
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Cape Town, South Africa BLOG: mozeonline.com @officialmoze STYLE INSPIRATION The one that I'm noticing now more and more is that my style is inspired by the woman I want to be. When I think about my goals in life and who I want to be to myself and those around me, I also think of how I want to present my self and the style associated with that aspiration. FASHION ADVICE Build your wardrobe around the "Classics" Classics being the LBD, great pair of blue jeans, white button up shirt etc. because once you do that, styling outfits becomes a whole lot easier.
UK(Nigeria) BLOG: thetwentysumtinsumtin.blogs pot.co.uk @anne_marieex STYLE INSPIRATION I would describe my style as very feminine. I love lace and elaborate colours. Kerry Washington and Olivia Palermo are my personal style favorites! FAVORITE ACCESSORY At the moment I have to say that I always gravitate towards any sort of ripped denim and white T-shirts or blouses. They're so versatile and can be dressed up, paired with heels or dressed down with comfortable flats.
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South Africa based in Los Angeles BLOG: thisfashionfiend.com @ThisFashionFiend_ STYLE INSPIRATION My style is predominantly influenced by music and culture. I also love traveling, so my style is always evolving into a concoction of cultural elements. This is why I believe style is the most poetic unspoken language. It's your way of telling the world who you are, just by being present.
FASHION ADVICE I think something that's really important to developing your own personal style and aesthetic is not being afraid to look 'ugly.' It's okay to experiment and play around with different colours, textures and patterns. Sometimes the best looks are the most unexpected ones.
Nigeria BLOG: gafashion.blogspot.com STYLE INSPIRATION My faith and my love for vintage. FASHION ADVICE Be content. Be consistent in your style . Buy less choose wisely.
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London BLOG: theemeraldlass.com @sumbotaiwo FASHION TIPS 1. Don't be afraid to try out new things and go out of your comfort zone. You don't have to try every new trend but you should be willing to try new things. 2. Stay true to yourself whilst at the same time, be versatile. I'm very expressive in my style but always endeavor to stay through to myself and what I feel describes me best. I'll often have an uber- feminine look because I'm a girly girl and love to express my feminity. I'll also do a professional look because I like to look the part and dress like the professional that I am to work. 3. Dress for the body you have not the body you want. I know there's the popular sayings of "Dress how you want to be addressed" and "Dress for the job you want". Both take a very forward-looking and optimistic approach which is great. When it comes to the pieces that you wear, I will say, stay optimistic but realistic. Ill-fitted clothes in the name of trying to reach a goal is not the way forward nor is a good look.
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Teriyaki Chicken Stir Fry BY AMANDA GICHARU KEMOLI
This month we take a culinary journey to Japan! Many popular Japanese dishes are prepared by broiling. This method of cooking over high heat makes food crisp on the surface and ten-der and juicy inside. Meat, seafood, and vegetables are all delicious prepared as yakimono. One of the tastiest yakimono dishes is teriyaki, meat or seafood with a sauce that gives it a shiny, glazed coating. As an alternative cooking method to broiling or grilling, stir frying achieves a similar result.
INGREDIENTS : Serves 4 For Teriyaki Sauce:
For Stir Fry:
1â „2 cup dark soy sauce 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 450g boneless chicken breast, cut into bite-size cubes
1 teaspoon fresh ginger root, grated 3 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 cup fresh mushrooms, sliced thin
1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 tablespoon water
1 cup shredded carrot
1 cup broccoli, chopped into bite-size cubes 1 can sliced water chestnuts, drained (optional) 2 green onions, sliced thin (white section plus 2 inches of the green section)
DIRECTIONS 1. In a small bowl, whisk together soy sauce, sugar, ginger root and sesame seeds. Dissolve cornstarch in 1 tablespoon water and stir into the sauce mixture; set aside. 2. In wok or large frying pan over high heat, heat oil and stir-fry chicken 2 minutes. 3. Add vegetables and cook about 2 more minutes until chicken loses its pink color and vegetables soften. 4. Add sauce to pan and cook, stirring, until heated through and sauce is thickened. 5. Serve on a bed of rice or chow mein noodles.
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