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HARPERS WINE STARS AWARDS SPAIN 2017
HARPERS WINE STARS AWARDS
SPAIN 2017
With a true wealth of quality and diversity across the price points, not to mention unusual and interesting styles in spades, Spain was the obvious contender with which to launch the Harpers Wine Stars Awards
W
elcome to the results of Harpers’ inaugural Wine Stars Awards, launching into life with a focus on the most dynamic of northern hemisphere producers – Spain. In a world awash with so many awards, you might well ask “why introduce yet another competition”? The answer is simple. Our Wine Stars Awards are markedly different from the run-ofthe-mill, being judged by buyers for buyers, taking
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blind-assessed quality as the starting point, but then adding two further layers for consideration as extra rounds of judging added points for value for money and then design and packaging. Only buyers judge these awards and furthermore each judging session focuses on just one country, allowing an in-depth look at the wines, the trends and the development of that country. As such, these awards are like no other, taking an holistic approach, considering all of the factors that influence buying decisions, including elements of appeal to the final wine-buying consumer.
Our Wine Stars Awards are markedly different from the runof-the-mill
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THE JUDGES’ VIEWS Theo Sloot, The Oxford Wine Company “If you look at the overall trend towards quality rather than bulk, then Spain is increasingly pushing towards quality – it still has the bulk, but the quality is increasingly there. And it is a country with loads to offer, with so many styles now coming out, it’s really exciting. Spain has gained a lot more recognition in the past 10 years and there are a lot of goahead things going on. And they are really getting their act together in terms of modern marketing.” Charles Pashby-Taylor, Chez Bruce
The quality of the liquid in the bottle is paramount, but from a buying perspective, the quality-to-value ratio and presentation are further factors that go beyond a critical score that essentially indicates how much the tasters liked the wine in the bottle. On all but the most esoteric and freewheeling lists, a wine needs to fill a certain criteria, meeting a brief for a slot in a given portfolio, delivering a certain quality and price level, while also having appeal and communicating itself to potential customers. And this is the case not just for supermarkets and multiples, but for individual merchants, restaurants and bars too. It is for this reason the Harpers Wine Stars Awards were conceived, to judge wines through buyers’ eyes, and in doing so introduce a new approach to the world of wine competitions.
Judging criteria
The judging process was split into three tranches, with judging teams assessing wines grouped by region. The aim was to arrive at an accumulative and then final judging average score, or Star Award, out of a maximum of five stars, after three rounds of judging for each wine.
Round 1 – The Quality Round
All wines were tasted blind, aside from knowledge of the broad region of origin, and assigned a score by each judge based on quality alone.
Round 2 – The Value Round
Following the quality assessment of the wines in each regional flight, prices were then revealed and judges gave a further mark based on the perceived quality-to-value ratio.
Round 3 – The Design Round
The identity of all wines was then revealed, with further marks given for the overall packaging and design of each wine, with judges also appraised of the intended sales channels – on-trade, offtrade, multiples, etc – for each wine.
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“The biggest tranche was Rioja, some of which were lovely, but several of which were a more generic style. I think consumers, even when shopping in a supermarket, do want some point of difference, so those that showed this stood out. The white Riojas were showing well, from quite opulent traditional styles to lighter, fresher modern styles. Spain is a big place and Rioja is only part of that. There was a lot of variety elsewhere, fresh wines, reds like Mencia, and whites from Galicia, that show a different side of Spain.” Michael Patterson, D&D London “The Riojas were fairly similar, but for many Rioja is quite a specific product and recognition is so high that it’s quite a barrier to move beyond. There are definitely some alternatives that are commercially viable now, with the availability and access, so it has become easier to explore some of those alternatives on the list. In restaurants there is an opportunity to not put something that people recognise at entry level, so you can put a Rioja further up [the list] and then introduce wines that they don’t know, so this is creating space for new styles to come through.”
The wines were blind-tasted by buyers for buyers
Gerard Barnes, Berkmann Wine Cellars “You have to kiss frogs to find the princes and there were a lot of wines scoring in the middle, but some of those would make good pub wines, so there is a place for them too. Those that stood out included some wine styles that I’ve never tasted, so it’s been really interesting, with discoveries and some really good wines, although there were some ambitiously priced wines. It’s been really interesting to see some of the styles and fashions that are now appearing on our list.”
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HARPERS WINE STARS AWARDS SPAIN 2017
OUR JUDGES FOR SPAIN Gerard Barnes Wine buyer, Berkmann Wine Cellars
Carlos Blanco Managing director, Blanco & Lynds Fine Wines
THE RESULTS FIVE STARS Star of Spain and Star of Rioja
a Finca Valpiedra Reserva 2010, Rioja Berkmann Wine Cellars, £28.99
Charles Pashby-Taylor Wine buyer and head sommelier, Chez Bruce
Phoebe Phillips BWS, Lidl
Theo Sloot, Tastings and fine wine buyer, The Oxford Wine Company
Collette WhittingtonBowers Wine director, Hills Prospect
Micheal Patterson Group category manager, D&D London
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A “very savoury wine” with “aromas of ripe fruit and leathery spice”, showing a “lovely aged quality” in a “classic style” with “warm integrated oak” to complete an outstanding, well-balanced and well-made Rioja.
a Bodegas Faustino I Gran Reserva 2005, Rioja Cellar Trends, £18 “Fresh, with lovely acidity”, this wine was described as “very youthful still” for its age, with the ”potential to live on and on”, bringing bright acidity and beautifully rounded fruit to bear” on a very moresish and mellow palate.
Star Design and Star of Rías Biaxas a Pagos del Rey Centola Albariño 2016, Rías Baixas Félix Solís UK, £9.99 This had “lovely lemon peel and pear” coming through on the nose, with a palate infused with “juicy fruit characters” and satisfying “tropical notes”, with good texture and mouthfeel.
Star Design and Star of Castilla La Mancha a Finca La Estacada Hello World Cabernet Franc 2016, Castilla La Mancha Myliko Wines, £9.99 Showing “fresh blackcurrant aromas with nice salty notes coming through”, this had “lively, herby, green characters” being “an interesting wine, slightly different, slightly perfumed and herby”, giving up more as the wine opened up.
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Star of Spain and Star of Rioja
Finca Valpiedra Reserva 2010, Rioja BERKMANN WINE CELLARS, £28.99 This was a unanimous choice and one that was also praised for being good value at the price, not least when compared with high-end Bordeaux and other wines of similar quality. A “very savoury wine” with “aromas of ripe fruit and leathery spice”, showing a “lovely aged quality” in a “classic style” with “warm integrated oak” to complete an outstanding, well-balanced and wellmade Rioja.
Star of Castilla y León
Cumal Viñedos y Bodegas Dominio De Tares 2015, Castilla y León MORGENROT, £25 “With “blueberry pie aromas” and some intense “red and black fruits” on the palate, this “medium-bodied” wine had some “nice complexity” and was “well rounded, with good length”, finishing on mellow, slightly herby notes.
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Star Value
Pagos del Rey Castillo de Albai Crianza 2014, Rioja FÉLIX SOLÍS AVANTIS UK, £7.99 A bargain hit, this really impressed the tasters, offering much more than its price tag suggested. “Deep cherry character with a touch of vanilla and light spice” were found, along with “notes of demerara sugar and marzipan”, plus “a touch of roast fig coming through” on a “plummy and juicy” palate.
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HARPERS WINE STARS AWARDS SPAIN 2017
FIVE STARS a Bodegas Faustino V Reserva 2012, Rioja Cellar Trends, £13 “Savoury aromas, with hints of leather and liquorice”, this had “great depth”, being “very rounded”, matching freshness with “savoury characters”, with “fantastic all-round appeal”.
a De Haan Altés
FOUR STARS Star of Campo de Borja/ Cariñena and Calatayud a Pagos Del Moncayo Prados Coleccion Garnacha/Axial Viños 2015, Campo de Borja Symposium, £24.50
Diluvio 2016, Rías Baixas Bancroft Wines, £13
a De Haan Altés Tempestad 2015, Rías Baixas Bancroft Wines, £15
a Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro La Planta 2016, Ribera del Duero and Toro OW Loeb, £13.70
a Emporio Wines a Bodegas Faustino Icon Edition 2011, Rioja Cellar Trends, £30
Delincuente 2016, Campo de Borja Boutinot, £5.99
a Floris Legere Alaviana Showing “aromas of leather and polish”. Plus “savoury and sweet characters, with notes of tomato leaf”, this had fresh, uplifting acidity, being “bold and ripe” and “one for hearty food”, finishing “long” with “great balance”.
2015, Cariñena and Calatayud Desoutter & James, £13.65
a Félix Solís The Guv’nor 2016, Castilla La Mancha Félix Solís Avantis UK, £7.99
a Finca La Estacada Ocho a De Haan Altés Hazana Vinas Viejas 2015 Rioja Bancroft Wines, £13
y Medio 2016, Castilla La Mancha Myliko Wines, £9.49 Star of Castilla y León
a Cumal Viñedos y Bodegas “Beautiful leather and farmyard qualities”, with uplifting notes of “wonderful violets”, being “firm but floral” but with “well integrated, fine tannins”, “bright cherry fruit” and a refreshing “long finish”.
Star Design and Star of Rías Biaxas
Pagos del Rey Centola Albariño 2016, Rías Baixas FÉLIX SOLÍS AVANTIS UK, £9.99
Dominio de Tares 2015, Castilla y León Morgenrot, £25
a Marques de Vargas Pazo de San Mauro 2016, Rías Baixas Oliver Burridge & Co; SpaNiche Wines (HoReCa London), £12.99
Star of Ribera del Duero
a Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro Arzuaga Crianza 2014, Ribera del Duero and Toro OW Loeb, £23.08
Star of Campo de Borja/ Cariñena and Calatayud
Pagos Del Moncayo/Axial Vinos Prados Colección Garnacha 2015, Campo de Borja SYMPOSIUM, £24.50 Noted for its “young, vibrant fruit aromas” and generally attractive nose, this delivered “vivid and lively character” with “lovely, mellow red berries and sweet plums” on the palate, being “very dry but great acidity”. A medium-bodied wine with a slightly bitter finish, which would work well with quite punchily flavoured foods.
This had “lovely lemon peel and pear” coming through on the nose, with a palate infused with “juicy fruit characters” and satisfying “tropical notes”, with good texture and mouthfeel. “Good acidity”, coupled with “floral and apricot notes”, made for “an easy-drinking” but accomplished wine.
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a Bodega Burdigala
Star Taste
Star of The Islands
Campo Eliseo Tero 2011, Ribera del Duero and Toro Looking for distribution, £28
a Bodegas Faustino
a Finca Can Axartell Tinto
Faustino & Eneko 2015, Rioja Cellar Trends, £70
Dos 2013, The Islands Looking for distribution, £18
a Rioja Vega Gran Reserva
a Ramón Bilbao Crianza
2009, Rioja House of Townend, £24
2014, Rioja Enotria & Coe, £10.95
Star Value
a Ramón Bilbao
Star of the Levante
a Pagos del Rey Castillo de
a El Tesoro Monastrell
Albai Crianza 2014, Rioja Félix Solís UK, £7.99
Viñedos de Altura 2014, Rioja Enotria & Coe, £13.95
a Bodegas Bilbainas Viña
a Ramón Bilbao El Viaje de
Pomal Gran Reserva 2010, Rioja Codorníu UK, £20
Ramon Tempranillo 2015, Rioja Enotria & Coe, £8.95
a Bodegas Murviedro
a Marqués de Murrieta
Star Value
Capellania 2012, Rioja Maisons Marques et Domaines, £24
a Bodega Burdigala Campo Alegre Rueda 2016, Rueda Looking for distribution, £9
a Bodegas y Viñedos
Star of The Islands
Ortega Ezquerro Reserva 2012, Rioja Laytons (trade); Jeroboams (retail), £18.95
a Finca Can Axartell Tinto Uno 2014, The Islands Looking for distribution, £13.50
Cepas Viejas Merseguera 2016, The Levante Boutinot Wines, £10.99
Shiraz 2016, The Levante Boutinot, £7
THREE STARS
2014, Bierzo Bancroft Wines, £14.50
a Axial Viños Marqués de Montañana Selección Especial 2016, Cariñena and Calatayud Looking for distribution, £13.50
MYLIKO WINES, £9.99 Showing “fresh blackcurrant aroma with nice salty notes coming through”, this had “lively, herby, green characters” being “an interesting wine, slightly different, slightly perfumed and herby”, giving up more as the wine opened up. Some grippy character was underscored by “nice tannin structure and good length” on a “well balanced” wine, showing some “good development” and length. The label design was best described as “random but fun”.
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“A delicate aroma with hints of passion fruit” on an “elegant nose” announced this “good, interesting wine”, which had “lots going on”, revealing “good balance and nice complexity”. An easy-drinker, this nonetheless showed “good complexity, with hints of well-balanced oak, and a “lick of lemon curd” on the attractive finish.
a Manium de Haan Altés
Premsal Blanc 2016, The Islands Looking for distribution, £10.50
Finca La Estacada Hello World Cabernet Franc 2016, Castilla La Mancha
LOOKING FOR DISTRIBUTION, £9
Bodegas Dominio de Tares 2015, Bierzo James Nicholson Wine Merchant, £11.99
a Finca Can Axartell
Star Design and Star of Castilla La Mancha
Bodega Burdigala Campo Alegre Rueda 2016, Rueda
a Baltos Viñedos y
a Bodegas y Viñedos Ortega Ezquerro Don Quintin Ortega Red Single Parcel 2010, Rioja Laytons (trade); Jeroboams (retail), £24.95
Star Value
Star of Ribera del Duero
Bodegas Arzuaga Navarro Crianza 2014, Ribera del Duero OW LOEB, £23.08 “Real complexity” was found with this “smooth, rounded wine”, “polished” but with “so much flavour, great fruit” and showing “excellent balance and huge complexity” through its “long finish”.
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HARPERS WINE STARS AWARDS SPAIN 2017
THREE STARS
aa Barbacoa Ignacio Marin Wineries 2015, Cariñena and Calatayud Myliko Wines, £8.99
aa Félix Solís UK Viña Albali Gran Selección 2016, Castilla La Mancha Félix Solís UK, £6
aa Villalar La Mejorada
2011, Castilla y León Desoutter & James, £11.25
aa Bodega Clunia Finca El Rincón de Clunia 2013, Castilla y León House of Townend, £40
aa Ars Collecta Codorníu Jaume Codorniu Gran Reserva 2012, Cava Codorníu UK, £25
aa Finca Albret La Viña de
Mi Madre Reserva 2012, Navarra House of Townend, £18
aa Arínzano Hacienda Tinto
aa Pazo Barrantes
aa Marqués de
aa Finca Millara
aa Ortega Ezquerro
Albariño 2016, Rías Baixas Maisons Marques et Domaines, £20 Lagariza 2016, Ribeira Sacra Desoutter & James, £14
aa Axial Viños Lagar
de Proventus Tr3smano 2015, Ribera del Duero and Toro Looking for distribution, £79
aa Pagos del Rey
Sentero Expresión 2013, Ribera del Duero and Toro Félix Solís UK, £8.50
aa Bodega Burdigala
Campesino 2015, Ribera del Duero and Toro Looking for distribution, £5
aa Cathar Joven De Haan Altés 2016, Ribera del Duero and Toro Bancroft Wines, £13.50
aa Pagos del Rey El
2014, Navarra Cellar Trends, £21
Circulo Tempranillo 2016, Rioja Félix Solís UK, £6.99
aa Arínzano Hacienda
aa Marqués de Vargas
Blanco 2015, Navarra Cellar Trends, £18
Reserva 2012, Rioja Majestic Wine; SpaNiche Wines, £17.99
Star Taste
Bodegas Faustino & Eneko 2015, Rioja CELLAR TRENDS, £70 Tasters found “leather and smoky aromas”, with “a hint of spiced plum”, “well-integrated alcohol and tannins” on this “beautifully made” wine. Described as a “bold statement wine”, this is “often what people think of as Rioja, with “big fruit and smoky oak”.
Murrieta Reserva 2013, Rioja Maisons Marques et Domaines, £22 Crianza Bodegas y Viñedos 2014, Rioja Laytons (trade); Jeroboams (retail), £13.95
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Finca Can Axartell Tinto Dos 2013, The Islands LOOKING FOR DISTRIBUTION, £18
aa Bodegas y Viñedos
This was a hot, revealing a medley of characteristics, including “ripe dark-fruit characters”, “sweetly spiced vanilla and deep cherry”, underscored by “good acidity” on a beautifully balanced wine that would “clearly be great with food”.
aa Ramón Bilbao
Star of The Islands
Ortega Ezquerro Don Quintin Ortega White Barrel Fermented 2015, Rioja Laytons (trade); Jeroboams (retail), £15.95 Edición Limitada 2014, Rioja Enotria & Coe, £13.95
aa Pagos del Rey La
Camioneta Verdejo 2016, Rueda Félix Solís UK, £7.49
aa Bodega Burdigala
Campo Eliseo Rueda 2014, Rueda Looking for distribution, £21
aa Cuatro Rayas Fermentado en Barrica 2015, Rueda Bibendum, £9.11
Finca Can Axartell Premsal Blanc 2016, The Islands LOOKING FOR DISTRIBUTION, £10.50 This enticed with a “delicate floral elderflower aroma”, leading into a moreish wine showing “pleasant acidity, with a supple mouthfeel” and a refreshing “touch of bitter on the finish” and overall “refreshing minerality”.
aa Cuatro Rayas Viñedos Centenarios 2016, Rueda Bibendum, £7.29
aa Cuatro Rayas
Cuarenta Vendimias Sauvignon 2016, Rueda Bibendum, £8.25
aa Cuatro Rayas
Cuarenta Vendimias Verdejo 2016, Rueda Bibendum, £6.87
aa Ramón Bilbao Verdejo 2016, Rueda Enotria & Coe, £10.95
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Star of The Islands
Star of The Levante
El Tesoro Monastrell Shiraz 2016, The Levante BOUTINOT, £7 Announced by “bright strawberries and cassis aromas” this nonetheless mixed in “slightly saline flavours” and “earthy floral notes”, along with “violet” and “darker red fruits”, lined with a “spicy kick” on this “very well-balanced” wine.
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