A supplement to
International Spirits Challenge 2006
International Spirits Challenge 2006
The challenge is on for vodka ndoubtedly the star of this year’s International Spirits Challenge has been brown spirits overall, and in particular Scotch whisky. The level and quality of the entry this year in the words of one of the judges was: “Quite outstanding”. And gazing down the list of medals certainly makes for mouth-watering reading. Not surprising then that Scotch whisky has taken two of the four Trophies awarded this year – the winners will be announced at the Spirits Awards Dinner in September. The category’s medal tally serves to underline not only the level of expertise but also the level of activity in the category – with line extensions, the different wood finishes and nuances all coming to the fore. It is of course a very different matter for the white spirit producers, particularly the vodka boys. With vodka the opportunities for line extensions are limited to either a flavour, or the quest to be ever purer. Premium vodkas are denoted principally through their packaging design as well as their price-points – so the competition to find that critical USP is fierce. The growing number of vodkas now militating for a slice of the action is quite mind-boggling – and it’s not surprising that this year’s entry was large. However, it was something of a disappointment that no Gold medals were awarded this year – giving white spirits the dubious distinction of being the only category not to win a top accolade. The challenge is certainly on for next year! Liqueurs, of course, is the most varied and colourful category – and, it has to be said, in terms of quality too. However, overall it was an excellent Spirits Challenge – the first since William Reed acquired it last year. As such, a new ethos in terms of organisation prevails, together with the determination to develop the competition still further. Patience Gould
U
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
CONTENTS 5 Scotch Whisky 14 Other Whiskies 16 Cognac, Armagnac & Brandies 19 Liqueurs & Specialities 20 The Judges 24 Vodka 26 Gin 28 Tequila & Other White Spirits 30 Rum International Spirits Challenge in association with
Supplement edited by Simon Warburton Tel: +44 (0) 1293 846511 simon.warburton@william-reed.co.uk David Longfield Tel: +44 (0)1293 846527 david.longfield@willliam-reed.co.uk Patience Gould Tel: +44 (0)20 8663 3018 pgmedia@beaulodge.freeserve.co.uk
Art Editor Steve Bradbury steve.bradbury@william-reed.co.uk
Advertisement Manager Daisy Jones Tel: +44 (0)1293 846514 daisy.jones@willliam-reed.co.uk
Sales Executive Andy Goodman Tel: +44 (0)1293 846513 andy.goodman@william-reed.co.uk
Publisher Lee Sharkey Tel: +44 (0)1293 846509 lee.sharkey@willliam-reed.co.uk
Printed by Stephens & George © William Reed Publishing Ltd 2006. All rights reserved
3
scotch whisky
William Grant flaunts its mastery W
hen you consider that it took 12 of the industry’s top Master Blenders four solid days to judge the Scotch whisky category in this year’s Challenge, it shows not only the sheer size of the entry – 41 Gold, 80 Silver and 44 Bronze – but its quality too. Plus, to cap it all, the category received two Trophies out of only four awarded in the whole competition (to be revealed at the Spirits Awards Dinner in London, September). “Industry leaders are showing top class wood management,” said Whyte and Mackay’s Master Blender and judge Richard Paterson. “With these line extensions and new finishes – it’s all very encouraging and the general standard is very, very high – it’s top quality.”
Evidently the Single Malts were the most hotly contested classes, notably the 12 Years Old & Under as well as the 21 Years Old & Over, attracting nine and six Gold medals respectively. William Grant took the honours here, with its Balvenie Single Malt in various guises taking no less than six Golds. The producer also picked up a brace of Gold medals with its Grant’s Deluxe 15 Year-Old and the Premium 12 Year-Old, both in the premium blends class. And still with William Grant, the company’s flagship Glenfiddich was in the thick of the Silver action with its Caoran Reserve, Special Reserve, the 30 Year-Old, Gran Reserva 21 Year-Old and Vintage Reserve 1973.
ISC to expand its horizons The ISC is set to develop and grow when it kicks off again for 2007. William Reed events director, Clare King, said: “The plan is to run the ISC judging later in the year so it stands alone from the International Wine Challenge. “We will also have a focused PR and marketing campaign to increase the ISC’s profile and standing in the industry.” While acknowledging the contribution and support of the whisky industry, Clare King also added that William Reed plans to significantly raise the number of entries from other categories. “We are also changing the categories in line with this, so that the number of Trophies awarded will reflect the categories entered,” she said. Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
5
scotch whisky Balblair 38 Y-O
The Balvenie Founders Reserve 10 Y-O
Bowmore Enigma The Balvenie NewWood
GOLD MEDAL WINNERS Scotch malts
Bunnahabhain 25 Y-O Singe Malt
The Balvenie PortWood
Glenmorangie 30 Y-O Oloroso Cask Finsh
The Balvenie PortWood 21 Y-O
Glenmorangie Burr Oak Reserve
The Balvenie Thirty
Highland Park 12 Y-O
The Famous Grouse Malt 10 Y-O
Infinity
The Glenlivet 18 Y-O
Lagavulin 16 Y-O
The Macallan 8 Y-O Fine Oak
Lagavulin Distillers Edition
Whyte and Mackay ‘Prize’ Blended Malt (Non Age)
Matisse 12 Y-O Pure Malt Whisky
Aberlour 10 Y-O
Scotch blends Talisker 10 Y-O
Aberlour 12 Y-O Ardbeg Lord Of The Isles Auchentoshan 12 Y-O Balblair 35 Y-O
6
Ballantine’s Finest Tamnavulin 33 Y-O Single Speyside Malt The Balvenie DoubleWood 12 Y-O
Black Bottle 10 Y-O Grant’s 25 Y-O Grant’s Deluxe 15 Y-O
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
scotch whisky Bowmore Surf Bruichladdich 20 Y-O 3rd Edition Grant’s Premium 12 Y-O
Bunnahabhain 12 Y-O Single Malt
Johnnie Walker Black Label Bunnahabhain 18 Y-O Single Malt
Matisse 21 Y-O Scotch Blended Whisky
Caol lla 12 Y-O Matisse Royal 7 Y-O Scotch Blended Whisky
Caol lla 25 Y-O
The Antiquary 21 Y-O
Clynelish 14 Y-O
The Famous Grouse Scottish Oak
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS
Dalwhinnie 15 Y-O
Scotch malts
Glenfiddich 30 Y-O
Aberfeldy 21 Y-O
Glen Turner
An Cnoc 30 Y-O
Glenfiddich 1991 Vintage Reserve
The Gordon Highlanders The Grand Bark Reserve The Royal & Ancient 28 Y-O Whyte and Mackay ‘The Thirteen’ 13 Y-O Blended Scotch Whisky
8
Balblair 26 Y-O Benriach 16 Y-O
Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve 18 Y-O
Benriach Authenticus 21 Y-O
Glenfiddich Caoran Reserve
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
Glenfiddich Cask Strength 15 Y-O
Marks & Spencer Islay Malt Whisky
Glenfiddich Gran Reserva 21 Y-O
The Glenrothes Vintage 1985 The Glenrothes Vintage 1991
Oban 14 Y-O Glenfiddich Solera Reserve 15 Y-O
Oban Distilery Edition
The Macallan 15 Y-O Fine Oak
Glenfiddich Special Reserve
Old Pulteney 17 Y-O
Glenfiddich Vintage Reserve 1973
Old Pulteney 21 Y-O
The Macallan 17 Y-O Fine oak The Macallan 18 Y-O Fine Oak
Glenmorangie 15 Y-O
Sainsbury’s Highland Single Malt 12 Y-O
Glenmorangie 30 Y-O Malaga Cask Finish
Sainsbury’s Speyside Single Malt 12 Y-O
Glenmoray 30 Y-O
Sainsbury’s Speyside Single Malt 15 Y-O Claret Finish
Tomatin 25 Y-O Single Highland Malt Tomintoul 10 Y-O
Highland Park 16 Y-O Smokehead
Tomintoul 27 Y-O Turnberry Waitrose Islay Single Malt 10 Y-O
Highland Park 25 Y-O The Balvenie RumWood Highland Park 30 Y-O
Scotch blends The Balvenie Single Barrel
Johnnie Walker Green Label Lagavulin 12 Y-O Marks & Spencer Glen Darbach Malt Whisky
Ballantine’s 12 Y-O The Balvenie Vintage Cask 1972
Ballantine’s 21 Y-O
The Glenrothes Select Reserve
Ballantine’s 30 Y-O
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
9
scotch whisky
Black Bottle
Matisse 12 Y-O Scotch Blended Whisky
Clan MacGregor Peaty Creag Dewar’s 12 Y-O Special Reserve
Royal Salute 21 Y-O
Dewar’s 18 Y-O Founders Reserve
Scottish Leader Blended Malt 15 Y-O
Grant’s Ale Cask Reserve
The Royal & Ancient
Grant’s Rare 18 Y-O
Whyte and Mackay ‘Old Luxury’ 19 Y-O Blended Scotch Whisky
James Martin’s 20 Y-O James Martin’s 30 Y-O Johnnie Walker Blue Label Johnnie Walker Gold Label Johnnie Walker Red Label Kalloway 12 Y-O Blended Scotch
Whyte and Mackay ‘Oldest Aged’ 30 Y-O Blended Scotch Whisky Whyte and Mackay ‘Rare Edition’ 22 Y-O Blended Scotch Whisky
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS Scotch malts 21 Y-O Dalmore Single Highland Malt 21 Y-O Isle of Jura Single Highland Malt
Scotch grain Ardbeg 10 Y-O
Kalloway 15 Y-O Blended Scotch
The Invergordon Single Grain Scotch Whisky Vintage 1973
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
Ardbeg Uigeadail
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scotch whisky Balblair 16 Y-O
Moine Mhor
Bowmore 16 Y-O
Monkey Shoulder
Bruichladdich 15 Y-O 2nd Edition
Sainsbury’s Islay Vatted Malt 10 Y-O
Caol Ila 18 Y-O
Speyburn 25 Y-O
Dalmore Single Highland Malt Vintage 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon Finish
The Glenlivet 15 Y-O
Glen Garioch 15 Y-O
The Glenlivet Nadurra
Glencadam 15 Y-O
The Peat Monster
Jacobite Blended Scotch Whisky 70cl Quality Spirits/ Whyte & Mackay Label 5 Marks & Spencer Kenmore Whisky Matisse 5 Y-O Scotch Blended Whisky
The Glenlivet 21 Y-O Royal Silk Scottish Leader Blended Malt Scottish Leader Supreme Blend
Glenfarclas 15 Y-O Scotch blends Glenfiddich Rare Collection 40 Y-O Glenmorangie 15 Y-O Sauternes Wood Finish Glenmorangie 18 Y-O
Baile Nicol Jarvie
Tesco Finest Reserve 12 Y-O Scotch Whisky
Black Dog Centenary Deluxe Scotch Whisky
Scotch grain
Dewar’s White Label
Girvan Single Grain 1964
Glenmoray 16 Y-O Grant’s Family Reserve Highland Park 15 Y-O Grant’s Sherry Cask Reserve Jacobite Vatted Malt Scotch Whisky
Highland Harvest Organic Scotch Whisky
SEAL OF APPROVAL Scotch blends
Knockando 18 Y-O Marks & Spencer Inverey Malt Whisky 12 Y-O
12
Jacobite Blended Scotch Whisky 1.5ltr Whyte & Mackay
Dewar’s Signature Sainsbury’s Blended Whisky
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
whiskies of the world
Irish and Japanese are quality act utside Scotch whisky there was an in-
Japanese producers dominated the Silver
teresting struggle between the Irish and
medals with Nikka and Suntory amassing 15
Japanese producers – ending with four Gold
out of the 26 awarded. Irish whiskeys also had
medals apiece.
a good showing, as well as American whiskeys
O
C&C International, with Tullamore Dew,
and Bourbons, with Woodford Reserve the
took two Golds, for the standard and 12 Year-
top offering in the small batch Bourbon class.
Old, as did Pernod Ricard with Jameson 18
Bronze was the highest level for Indian
Year-Old and Midleton Rare. Old Rip Van
whisky producers, and this is a clear sign that
Winkle flew the American flag, with the only
great improvements are underway – for last
Gold medal for a US whiskey. However the
year, not a single Indian whisky made it into
overall honours have to go to Suntory, with
the Challenge’s top flight. The leading player
its trio of Golds awarded for Hibiki 21 and 30
here was UB Group with its Antiquity Blue
Year-Olds, and its 18 Year-Old Single Malt
Rare and Premium Rare whiskies, as well as
Whisky Hakushu (Bless you!).
Royal Challenge. Tullamore Dew 12 Y-O
Locke’s Single Malt
Whiskies - Japanese
Tullamore Dew Heritage
Nikka Whisky ‘Takesuru’ 21 Y-O Pure Malt
Tyrconnel Single Malt
Suntory Single Malt ‘Hakushu’ Aged 18 Years
Whiskies - Japanese
Suntory Whisky ‘Hibiki’ 21 Y-O
GOLD MEDAL WINNERS Whiskies - Irish
Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo 12 Y-O ‘Fruity & Rich’
Suntory Whisky ‘Hibiki’ 30 Y-O
Nikka Single Malt Miyagikyo 15 Y-O
Whiskies - North American
Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 10 Y-O
Old Rip Van Winkle
Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 12 Y-O ‘Peaty & Salty’
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS
Nikka Single Malt Yoichi 12 Y-O ‘Woody & Vanillic’
Jameson 18 Y-O Nikka Whisky ‘Takesuru’ 12 Y-O Pure Malt
Whiskies - Irish Midleton Very Rare Connemara Single Malt Tullamore Dew Irishowen
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Suntory Single Malt ‘Hakushu’ Aged 10 Years
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
Suntory Single Malt ‘Hakushu’ Aged 12 Years
Other whiskies
Antiquity Rare Premium Whisky
Three Ships 5 Y-O Suntory Single Malt ‘Yamazaki’ Aged 10 Years
Three Ships Bourbon
Royal Challenge Premium Whisky
Suntory Single Malt ‘Yamazaki’ Aged 12 Years
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS
Suntory Single Malt ‘Yamazaki’ Aged 18 Years
Whiskies - Irish
SEAL OF APPROVAL
Connemara 12 Y-O Single Malt
Other whiskies
Connemara Cask Strength Single Malt
8pm Whisky
Suntory Special Grain Whisky ‘Chita’ Suntory Whisky ‘Hibiki’ 50.5
Three Ships Whisky
Gilbey’s Green Label Whisky Locke’s
Suntory Whisky ‘Hibiki’ Y-O
Whytehall Whisky Millars Special Reserve
The Blend Of Nikka 17 Y-O Whiskies - Irish Whiskies - Japanese Whiskies - North American
Marks & Spencer Cassidy’s Irish Whiskey
Old Forester 100 proof
Suntory Pure Malt ‘Hokuto’ aged 12 Years
Old Forester Birthday Bourbon
The Suntory Old
Whiskies - Japanese
Other whiskies
Suntory Single Malt ‘Yamazaki’ aged 25 Years
Antiquity Blue Rare Premium Whisky
Suntory Single Malt ‘Yoichi’ 12 Y-O Sherry & Sweet
Old Virginia Woodford Reserve
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
15
Cognac, Armagnac & brandy
Cognac carries the day
I
t’s probably not a surprise that Cognac
brands, Martell was up there, with Silver med-
dominated the brandy proceedings this
als going to its VSOP and XO.
year – but the surprise is that only four Gold
It’s good to see the Armagnac flag flying
medals were awarded overall, considering the
too; there was one Silver, for Gelas 18 Year-
breadth and depth of this class.
Old Folle Blanche, and five Bronze medals,
The
top
two
Cognacs
were
Louis
Royer’s Petite Champagne and 1738 Accord
with Janneau bagging three for its Très Vielle Reserve, XO and 5 Year-Old.
Royal, while two other Golds went to Distell’s
The highest ranking Spanish Brandies were,
South African brandy Van Ryn’s 12 and 15
Osborne Reserva De Toro and Sandeman
Year-Olds. Representing leading international
Capa Real, which took a Bronze apiece.
GOLD MEDAL WINNERS Cognac 1738 Accord Royal Martell VSOP
Oude Meester Reserve 12 Y-O
Martell XO
Van Ryn’s 10 Y-O
Ragnaud-Sabourin Florilège
Van Ryns 20 Y-O
Armagnac
Grappa Pilzer Grappa di Traminer
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS
Gelas 18 Y-O 100% Folle Blanche
Cognac
Brandy - South Africa
Domaine Frapin 1985 20 Y-O
Laborie Alambic
Louis Royer Petite Champagne Brandy - South Africa Van Ryn’s 12 Y-O Van Ryn’s 15 Y-O
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Calvados Calavados Christian Drouin Coeur de Lion Hors d’Age
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
Richelieu XO Sainsbury’s XO Cognac Tesco Finest VSOP Cognac Armagnac Baron de Sigognac VSOP Château du Tariquet Gelas 18 Y-O 100% Baco Tesco Finest VSOP Armagnac
Janneau 5 Y-O Brandy - South Africa Barry & Nephews
Brandy - Armenia Arpi 10 Years Arpi 7 Years Brandy - Cyprus Adonis
Flight Of The Fish Eagle
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS Cognac ABK6 VSOP ABK6 XO Camus XO Elegance Cognac Gautier Extra 1755
Klipdrift Gold KWV 10 Y-O KWV 20 Y-O KWV 3 Y-O KWV 5 Y-O Nederberg Solera Sydney Back Brandy NV
Cognac Gautier VSOP Fine Champagne 250 Years Anniversary
Brandy - Spain
Cognac Otard VS
Sandeman Capa Real
Osborne Reserva De Toro
Cognac Otard VSOP Delamain Pale & Dry
Grappa
Delamain Vesper
Pilzer Moscato Giallo
Grönstedts Extra Grönstedts VO Grönstedts VS Hine Rare VSOP Louis Royer Cognac XO
Calvados Calvados Boulard Grand Solage Calvados Boulard Hors d’Age
Louis Royer VS
Pisco
Marks & Spencer Monnet Cognac
La Diablada Pisco
Martell VSOP Cognac
SEAL OF APPROVAL
Armagnac
Cognac
Baron de Sigognac 1986
Cognac Otard
Baron de Listrac Domaine De Caumont 1970 Bacco Janneau Très Vielle Reserve
Grönstedts XO Louis Royer VSOP Fine Champagne
Janneau XO
Martell Cordon Bleu
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
Brandy - France Christian Dupre Marks & Spencer Napoleon Brandy Three Barrels Brandy - Georgia Tetpohn 6 Y-O Brandy - Germany Scharlachberg Meisterbrand Brandy - India No.1 McDowell’s Brandy Brandy - South Africa Joseph Barry Sydney Back Brandy 10 Y-O Brandy - Spain Gran Capataz Grappa Kakhetian Chacha Kakhetian Chacha Special Calvados Calvados Comte Louis de Lauriston 1990 Pisco Macchu Pisco
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liqueurs & specialities
Quality will out in the end rguably, liqueurs as a category is an um-
first liqueur to pick up a Trophy. This year,
brella which covers a considerable array
however it was not to be – so liqueurs & Spe-
of different drinks, adding up to a very varied
cialities is once again without a Trophy, and to
and gloriously colourful tasting day.
my mind there were far too many drinks lan-
A
Quality will out in this category, and it did!
guishing well below the Bronze level. That the
Congratulations to the two Gold medal win-
category could only muster two Golds, four
ners – De Kuyper for its Crème de Cassis
Silvers and 18 Bronzes only reinforces the
Noir de Bourgogne and Marnier Lapostolle’s
questionable quality of some of the entries. In
Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire. The
short, artificial flavourings were far too appar-
latter of course made history last year as the
ent, much to the chagrin of the judges.
GOLD MEDAL WINNERS
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS
Liqueurs - crème/fruit De Kuyper Crème de Cassis Noir de Bourgogne
Liqueurs - cream/dairy Brogans Irish Cream
Liqueurs - brandy-based Grand Marnier Cuvée du Centenaire
Liqueurs - fruit De Kuyper Triple Sec Liqueurs - herbal Scharlachberg Krauterlikor
Liqueurs - fruit Cherry Marnier Pallini Limoncello Pallini Peachcello Pallini Raspicello Liqueurs - herbal Oude Meester Liqueur Peppermint Oude Meester Liqueur Ginger
Liqueurs - brandy-based Grand Marnier Cuvée du Cent Cinquantenaire Whisky-based liqueurs Dunkeld Atholl Brose Glayva
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS Absinthe Sebor Liqueurs - cream/dairy O’Hagan’s Irish Cream Liqueur Liqueurs - crème/fruit L’Heritier Guyot
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
Liqueurs - brandy-based Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge Limited Edition Other liqueurs & specialities Chevessac Pineau Extra Vieux De Kuyper Crème de Café Disaronno Originale Frangelico Specialities - Anis-based Antica Classic Sambuca Mistra Pallini Whisky-based liqueurs Marks & Spencer Amberdeur Old Pulteney Liqueur
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the judges WHISKIES CHAIRMAN OF TASTERS John Ramsay Master blender The Edrington Group Robert Hicks Beam Global Spirits &Wine, Inc Seiichi Koshimizu Chief blender at Suntory, where he has worked since 1973
COGNAC, ARMAGNAC & BRANDY CHAIRMAN OF TASTERS: Neil Mathieson Managing director of specialist spirits distributor, Eaux de Vie, which he set up in 1985 Nicholas Faith Drinks writer and business journalist; founded the ISC in 1996 and was chairman of judges until 2002
Billy Leighton Master blender for the Irish Distillers Group Jim McEwan Born on Islay, and now production director of the Bruichladdich distillery Richard Paterson Master blender at Whyte & Mackay Jimmy Russell Master distiller, Wild Turkey distillery, Lawrenceburg, Kentucky Shigeo Sato Master blender, Nikka Whisky Colin Scott Master blender, Chivas Bros David Stewart Chief blender and malt master, William Grant & Sons Dr Barry Walsh Planning and blending consultant for Irish Distillers 20
Kobus Gelderblom Brandy expert at KWV in South Africa Louis Nomdedeu Head of research for Rémy Martin, where he has worked since 1974 Simon Palmer Cellar master for ABK6 Cognac, and previously led the International Spirits University, Ségonzac Olivier Paultes Cellar master at Cognac Frapin since 1987 Dr Caroline Snyman Business director, spirits, at Distell in South Africa
RUM
Karen Douglas Director of education, Wine & Spirit Education Trust Nicholas Faith (See Cognac etc) Phil Harris Phil Huckle Bar manager, AKA London Peter Martin Regional manager, J Wray & Nephew Carsten E. Vlierboom Master blender, E&A Scheer BV, Amsterdam
LIQUEURS CHAIRMAN OF TASTERS Patrick Zuidam Master distiller and managing director of Zuidam Distillers BV, Holland Gerard Chaussée General manager at liqueur producer, Pages Védrenne in Nuits-Saint-Georges Patience Gould Consulting editor, Drinks International Peter Hallgarten Specialist blender Steve Hoyles
CHAIRMAN OF TASTERS Steve Hoyles Dave Broom Freelance drinks writer and winner of the Glenfiddich Spirits Writer of the Year Award
Patrick Raguenaud Cellar master, Marnier Lapostolle
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
WHITE SPIRITS owever established a competition is, and however impressive the number, range, and calibre of entries, a competition is ultimately only as good as the judges who decide on the awards, writes chairman of tasters, freelance drinks writer, Ian Wisniewski. The white spirits judges are always drawn from as many areas of the industry, as many nationalities, and are as ‘equal opportunity’ as possible. This ensures a comprehensive range of experience and perspectives, and ensures the judging process is subjected to a broad and rigorous range of criteria. This year’s judging panel included a master distiller and master blender, technical experts responsible for quality control and new product development, a brand ambassador, on-trade consultants and drinks writers. The range of nationalities spanned Eastern Europe, Scandinavia, France and the UK. On the technical side, Halvor Heuch is the master blender/vice president for spirits at Arcus in Norway, which includes responsibility for aquavit, Cognac, whisky and vodka, while Desmond Payne is the master distiller of Beefeater gin, based in London. Among the female experts, Lesley Gracie is new liquid development leader at Wm Grant & Sons, based in Scotland; Elzbieta Goldyka is responsible for quality control and developing recipes for new vodka brands at V&S Luksusowa Zielona Gora SA in Poland, with Veronique Chaumetou from Distilleries Ryssen in France. Olga Bubnova is the chief technologist at the distillery producing Parliament vodka in Russia. Also from Russia, Leonid Gelibterman’s various qualifications include being general director of the Whitehall-St Petersburg Co Ltd, and deputy chairman of the International Wine & Food Society Russian Branch. Alexander Zaytsev is director of Capitale Style Co, which holds the International Wine & Spirits Contest at Prodexpo in Russia, with Alexander being chief of the spirits commission. From Finland, Markku Raittinen is the global brand ambassador for Finlandia Vodka Worldwide Ltd. Among the UK judges, David Paskins is drinks consultant/ director at The Gorgeous Group, a hospitality consultancy, with Robbie Hitchcock and Mark Drew running Dynamic Bars, a bar and hospitality consultancy. Ryder Butler is a director of Majol Ltd, which operates a portfolio of gastro-pubs in London. Drinks writers included Patience Gould, consulting editor of Drinks International, and freelance spirits writer Ian Wisniewski, who has been chairman of the white spirits judges since 1997. Apart from discussing the entries, the judging panel also enjoyed plenty of quality time together, exchanging news and views, with “have you heard/tasted/been to...” a popular refrain throughout the
H
Halvor Heuch
Leslie Gracie
Elzbieta Goldyka
Olga Bubnova
Leonid Gelibterman Markku Raittinen
David Paskins
Patience Gould
Ian Wisniewski
Ian Grieve
CHAIRMAN OF JUDGES Ian Grieve has been involved with the ISC since its inception, and retired as master blender at UDV – specialising in Johnnie Walker – in 2000. Born and raised in Dundee, Grieve joined Bell’s in 1969 and rose to whisky operations manager a few years later.
two days. Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
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white spirits
Talking loud and clear hat a line-up. White spirits span a fascinating range of categories to judge, with vodka, gin and tequila established as global contenders, while national favourites such as aquavit and shochu (within the ‘other white spirits’ category) also have the potential to be international players. With the industry continually specialising and innovating, various categories now include ‘traditional’ as well as more ‘innovative’ brands. How everyone responds to evolution partly depends on whether this is seen as a departure from, or a continuation of tradition, and it’s also, of course, a case of whether a brand is able to deliver. This was one of the numerous issues debated by the judges. In some cases varying opinions meant that re-tasting sessions, further discussion, and another round of scoring was required in order to reach a consensus.
W
The process of discussing a short list of contenders for awards often exceeded the amount of time spent actually sampling, but then this is probably inevitable with such an experienced and comprehensive judging panel. With different points of view to listen to, and respond to, exchanges between the judges were numerous and stimulating. Ian Wisniewski
“
I think it’s a very good meeting place for the spirits industry and it gives the participants an opportunity to discuss the spirits business in general. The judges have different functions and come from different parts of the business. This is also useful. This means that we get a wider approach with respect to the judging, and that the consumer and trade also is represented Halvor Heuch, Arcus
”
“
I found it very educational to be a part of a panel of judges of such experience and breadth of knowledge. The highlights of the process for me were the discussions we had about the nature of each category, especially given the divergence of opinion amongst the different cultures represented David Paskins, The Gorgeous Group
”
“
The Challenge has been organised very democratically in my view. All the judges had equal opportunities of defending their positions in discussions and every opinion – even when not shared – has been perceived with due understanding and respect Leonid Gelibterman, Whitehall-St Petersburg Co Ltd
”
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
23
vodka
Breaking with tradition
E
stablished as the world’s most fashionable
Interestingly, on the statistical side, the
and innovative category, vodka thrives
same number of premium and super-
on supreme versatility, with cocktails driv-
premium
ing consumption throughout the West. It’s an
Spirits Challenge, which is an indication
amazing irony, as mixing hardly promotes a
of how much growth there has been in the
greater understanding of the quality and range
deluxe vodka sector since Belvedere launched
of characteristics that vodka can offer, so it’s
in the USA in 1996.
hardly surprising that many consumers still undervalue vodka.
brands
entered
this
year’s
The long-accepted tradition that Russian, Eastern European and Scandinavian vodkas
This category comprised four separate
had character, while Western vodkas were
flights, divided on the basis of price-point,
more neutral, has now become outdated. Nu-
beginning with standard, then premium and
merous vodkas produced throughout the West
super-premium, then ending with flavoured
now offer character, thanks to the ingredients
vodka. The judges remarked on the consistent
used in distillation, and countries without a
levels of quality found among standard and
vodka tradition are also making a contribu-
premium vodkas.
tion to vodka’s continual evolution.
24
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
Flavoured Parliament Pepper Standard Belvedere Vodka Pure Poliakov
SEAL OF APPROVAL Super-Premium
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS
Christmas Fairytale
Premium
Super-Premium
Ivan The Terrible
DIVA Diamond Sand Filtered Vodka
Blue Ice Vodka
U’Luvka
Effen Vodka Ketel One Vodka
Flavoured Promised
Parliament Vodka
Belvedere Vodka Cytrus Wodka Gorbatschow Platinum 44
Flavoured
Standard Premium
Absolut Citron
Etalon Original Chekov 45% Konstantin Vodka
Standard
Parliament International
Medal Original
Premium Gera
Magic Moments
Drinks International 2006 international spirits challenge
25
gin
Flavour of the day fter years of being considered ‘out’ by
A
of a brand’s individuality. At the same time,
consumers, gin is definitely back ‘in’, and
specifying more unusual botanicals can also
rather than being hampered by any historic
give consumers an insight into a brand’s
baggage, it’s become a fashionable and totally
flavour profile.
‘now’ category, thriving on its mixability.
Alcoholic strength is becoming more of a
Separate flights divided on the basis of price-
marketing point too – and as this influences
point comprised standard, premium and
flavour delivery, it’s an important distinction
super-premiums. Premium gins were the sin-
which includes the use of fractions. Plymouth
gle largest flight, with judges noting a consist-
for example, which won a Silver medal, comes
ent standard.
in at 41.2% abv.
One lengthy discussion between the judges
Among other medal winners, Hendrick’s
stemmed from the broad range of brands now
is a prime example of the small but grow-
available. Various new launches have extend-
ing band of super-premiums. Meanwhile,
ed the range of ‘brand personalities’, both in
Xoriguer distilled on the Balearic island of
terms of branding and flavour delivery – the
Menorca, shows that although gin is synony-
selection of botanicals used in each product’s
mous with the UK, there are also international
manufacture is increasingly promoted as part
medal-winning contenders.
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS Super-Premium
Super-Premium
Hendricks Gin
Whitley Neill London Dry Gin
Premium
Premium
Crown Jewel
Beefeater
Plymouth Gin
Blackwoods Vintage Dry Gin Xoriguer
Standard Sainsbury’s Blackfriars Gin London Hill Gin Standard Pullings Gin
26
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
tequila & other white spirits
Best of the rest ith growing interest in tequila, particu-
W
original blue agave character was balanced,
larly in markets such as the US and the
and complemented, by the additional influ-
UK, more new brands are launching, while
ence of oak ageing. Unfortunately no awards
existing portfolios are being extended with
were given in this latter category.
specialist styles. All of this means that tequila is on the brink of a new era.
An indigenous favourite in Denmark, Sweden and Norway, aquavit (also spelt
Correspondingly, the consumer perception
‘akvavit’) has all the characteristics required to
of tequila is also changing. The traditional ap-
gain a more international following, in terms
proach of shooting neat tequila down-in-one
of heritage and flavour delivery. With mature
is declining, while sip and savour is grow-
spirits markets, such as the UK, more keen on
ing. Tequila also benefits from having a key
specialities, export potential for aquavit has
serving style to help drive recruitment – the
never looked better.
Margarita is the world’s top selling cocktail.
Shochu’s international potential remains to
Judging focused on how the blue agave char-
be seen, but as awareness of Japanese culture
acter showed in blanco tequila, and amongst
grows, shochu has an ideal opportunity to be
aged brands, judges looked at how the
discovered by a much wider audience.
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS
Hallands Fläder O.P. Anderson
Aquavit
SEAL OF APPROVAL
Läckö Slotts
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS
Tequila Añejo El Diamante del Cielo
Tequila Reposado XXX Siglo Treinta Gold
Aquavit Aalborg Taffel Akavit
Tequila Blanco
Gammal Norrlands
XXX Siglo Treinta Silver
Herrgards
Aquavit
Other White Spirits, Schnapps etc
Aalborg Jubilaeums Akvavit
Sorekara Barley Shochu Yaemaru Sweet Potato Shochu
28
international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006
rum
Waiting in the wings azing at the rum results in this year’s ISC
accolade, which eluded rum in last year’s Chal-
makes for a quizzical read. If this is the next
lenge. But unlike 2005 there was only one Sil-
spirits category – destined to take the world by
ver medal, compared with last year’s four, which
storm, as we are constantly told on the grape vine
went to Neisson Extra Vieux 45%.
G
– then it would appear its time is not yet nigh.
There were nine Bronze medals, with Puss-
However that said, at least there was a Gold
er’s and Matusalem Platino among the notables,
medal winner – not for the first time, Wray &
while the Pernod Ricard-owned Havana Club 7-
Nephew’s White Overproof picked up the top
Year-Old was the top performer in its rum class.
Rum agricole or cane spirit
White rum
Neisson l’Esprit 70%
Matusalem Platino R Rogue White Rum
Rum, other Premiums
SEAL OF APPROVAL
Havana Club Pusser’s Rum 15 Y-O Pusser’s Rum Blue Label
Rum agricole or cane spirit Neisson Blanc 50%
Rum, over 7 years old, stated age
Neisson Blanc 55%
Havana Club 7 Y-O
Sagatiba Preciosa Sagatiba Pura
Rum, under 7 years old
Sagatiba Velha
Neisson Réserve Spéciale
GOLD MEDAL WINNERS White rum Wray & Nephew White Overproof Rum
SILVER MEDAL WINNERS Rum, under 7 years old Neisson Extra Vieux 45%
BRONZE MEDAL WINNERS Flavoured rums O.V.D Spiced
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international spirits challenge Drinks International 2006