8 minute read
Fashion History, Fashion Forward
When AICI was founded, it is unlikely that the members would have predicted that the young founder of a tech company would wear a black turtleneck and jeans to announce a new type of phone at an international convention. Or that another would wear a t-shirt and hoodie to meet with potential investors. Or that a woman running for U.S. President would wear Converse athletic shoes with her suits. And who would have guessed that not only would workplace casual become acceptable, it would become inspirational.
Now, Facebook’s Mark Zuckerberg wears a suit to give Congressional testimony. However, with the exception of high-stakes meetings and courtroom appearances, it is common across the U.S. to see even the C-level donning casual shirts, jeans, and athletic shoes, although they may be more luxe than the staff-level versions.
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When AICI founders and board members were surveyed about the trends having the most impact on fashion since the organization’s founding, the consensus was the casualization of dress in the workplace and social media. In addition, fast fashion and the reaction to it are driving forces. Let’s reflect back and then, take a glimpse at what’s next.
The 1990s
The 90s supermodels known as The Big Five (Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, and Tatjana Patitz) were the first models to attain international celebrity status. Their runway looks and off-duty style influenced fashionistas worldwide, a cultural phenomenon that is still relevant today.
Now, models Bella Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and Kaia Gerber are international social media influencers. They not only represent fashion and beauty brands – they are their own brands. And they are joined by legions of social media “influencers” who never stepped foot on a runway or posed for a major fashion magazine, yet still earn envious incomes for their fashion-related posts.
Casual Fridays and the term “business casual” emerged in the late 90s in California offices. This most likely was in response to the t-shirt and jeans culture of Silicon Valley’s youthful and booming tech sector, personified by Apple’s Steve Jobs.
Business casual meant a more relaxed choice than a suit and tie, but not as casual as the tech sector’s campus style. Then, as it remains today, business casual is open to interpretation. It usually means slacks or khaki trousers, closed-toe leather shoes, and a collared shirt without a tie. For women, a knee-length skirt or slacks and blouse were included.
Today, business casual is an acceptable daily dress code across the US, even within the most conservative industries. For example, in March 2019, investment bank Goldman Sachs announced a “new, more relaxed, dress code.” GQ Magazine called the announcement “the official marker on the end of an era.”
The 2000s
The decade was remembered for The Great Recession, with effects that still linger today. It will also be remembered for the growth of inexpensive, fast fashion.
Companies like Zara, H&M, and Forever 21 sold lowcost versions of the latest runway designs, producing apparel in faster-than-ever cycle times. Fast fashion stores and the rise of online retail caused department store sales to decline. Yet, even fast fashion is not immune to competitive pressure. Recently, Forever 21 filed for bankruptcy and announced the closing of 200 stores.
Fashion continued to be influenced by pop culture and street style. Sex and the City’s main character, the fashion-obsessed Carrie Bradshaw transformed Manolo Blahnik, Christian Louboutin, and Jimmy Choo from names that were tongue twisters to names that rolled off every fashionista’s tongue. Designer logos were emblazoned on everything, including basic white t-shirts and baseball caps. Mixing fast fashion with a designer purse and shoes became acceptable, even chic.
After so many consumers and disillusioned employees lost trust in big business, some took entrepreneurial risks while the U.S. economy recovered from the recession. The 2010s are known for high-profile, venture-backed start-ups, including Instagram, socially conscious brands, and direct-to-consumer retailers.
When Instagram launched, it completely disrupted the fashion industry. “Followers” pay attention to “Insta-famous influencers” and brands pay the most influential handsomely for posting about their merchandise. One industry observer noted that the original fashion life cycle was seasonal, then the pace accelerated with fast fashion, and now consumers expect fashion to change as quickly as the next Instagram post.
As the fashion cycle quickened, so did the negative attention the industry received for its exploitative labor practices and harmful impact on the environment. In response, socially conscious brands, as well apparel re-sale and apparel rental companies began to emerge.
For example, Everlane’s philosophy is to deliver timeless apparel with transparent pricing and practices that are explained on its website. The brand is popular with socially aware celebrities, including Meghan (Markle), Duchess of Sussex, and Angelina Jolie.
Whether motivated by saving the earth, saving their dollars, or both, the re-sale and rental segments are growing. Rent The Runway, which pioneered the segment, has been joined recently by Bloomingdales, Urban Outfitters, and Anthropologie. In explaining the popularity of re-sale and rental apparel and accessories, industry expert Oliver Chen said in Fortune Magazine, “People are rethinking material things. It’s possessions as a service.”
Meanwhile, the athleisure trend is as strong as ever, with brands like Athleta and Lululemon offering blazers, button-down shirts, and pants with comfortconscious designs and fabrics that are suitable for a business casual dress code.
Mixing business with comfort is even acceptable on the U.S. Presidential campaign trail. Candidate Kamala Harris is often seen wearing suits or jeans with her Converse sneakers. It seems, however, that athletic shoes are not yet invited everywhere. Washington Post reporter Erica Warner tweeted that after Harris tried to enter a congressional chamber when wearing her Converse, she was told to enter through the more discreet chamber cloakroom.
Interviewed in a CNBC report, social media experts predicted that the term, social media, will disappear from our lexicon, as it becomes more integrated into our daily lives.
National Public Radio’s digital expert Melody Kramer explains, “It will become part of the fabric of our clothes, part of the glasses we wear and the shoes we put on, and the gadgets we no longer see as gadgets but as part of our very selves."
Piera Gelardi, Creative Director at Refinery 29, imagines that we will use an avatar to try on those glasses and shoes.
Now, imagine this: From your wearable device, you are shopping and, using your look-alike avatar, virtually trying on clothes from a socially conscious brand. You are simultaneously watching a live news report with images of U.S. Congress members entering a chamber meeting — some in suits, but others in turtlenecks, t-shirts, hoodies, jeans, and, of course, Converse athletic shoes!
REFERENCES:
www.gq.com/story/goldman-sachs-dress-code-change
www.fortune.com/2019/08/09/subscription-fashion-rental-box-business-growing-bloomingdales-urban-outfitters/
www.refinery29.com/en-us/2019/09/8394464/kamala-harris-converse (This has the reference to the tweet by the Washington Post reporter.)
www.cnbc.com/2014/10/02/11-predictions-on-the-future-of-social-media.html
LENORE AGUILAR is the founder of MUSE Personal Styling and a freelance writer who enjoys helping entrepreneurs bring their brands to life. The Las Vegas area resident is also the lead personal stylist at Dress for Success of Southern Nevada, where she has styled hundreds of women preparing for job interviews and trained nearly 100 volunteer stylists. Lenore is a graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s Image Consulting Certificate Program. She holds an MBA with a marketing concentration from the Golden Gate University. She enjoys travelling and hiking.
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