TECH: PERUN P90/AUG MOSFETS PART II

MAKING BAD GOOD

PERUN AND AIRSOFT ACTION HAVE DEVELOPED A FABULOUS RELATIONSHIP OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS, AND THEIR MOSFETS ARE NOW OUR GO-TO ELECTRONIC UPGRADE WHEN IT COMES TO WORKING ON OUR OWN PLATFORMS! PERUN IS A NAME ALL AIRSOFTERS SHOULD BE FAMILIAR WITH, BUT WHY? JIMMY WILL TELL YOU WHY IN PART II OF HIS LOOK AT THE NEW TECH FOR THE P90 AND AUG AS HE GETS INTO FITTING THEM!

Perun have fast become a popular choice and for me, and it is the only name I have faith in these days when it comes to electronics in AEG’s. As a tech I have seen most of their products and to date installed countless numbers of their incredible Mosfets.

Jakub and his team really do know their onions and know exactly what airsofters want. They don’t over-complicate things, they just make some fantastic equipment and so far I have seen a zero fail rate. They are the only brand I will recommend to someone looking to enhance the airsoft experience, and it is my opinion that Perun are fast becoming market leaders in airsoft electronics. The quality of what they make is very high, their pricing is very respectable, and customer service is second to none. So, if you are in the market for upgrading your AEG then I seriously suggest you look no further than Perun, and I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

They cater for many different platforms varying from the common V2 and V3 types but also the likes of the G&G ETU system, the popular Krytac Kriss Vector and now they have come up with a system for two more platforms, two platforms I loathe, or loathed should I say, the P90 and the AUG. These are what I like to call “marmite rifles”, yes marmite as you either love of hate and for a long time I hated the bones of both… that was up until I got my hands on the new Mosfets.

The main reason I hated both the P90 and the AUG was mainly down to their horrible two-stage trigger setup, which I found to be very unresponsive and very sloppy, and I know I am not alone in that opinion. To be fair though from a techs perspective they are both very easy to work on; I mean, two screws and the internals come straight out of the rear of the bodies, no faffing about splitting receivers, removing grips or receiver pins so they do make life quick and easy. Perun haven’t done away with the two-stage triggers; they are still very much two-stage but what Perun have done is to make them much more responsive, much more reliable, and very much 21st century. Gone is the horrid semi-lock-up and the long trigger pull!

When I opened up both packets of goodies from Perun it is evident they come with more components than something like the Hybrid Mosfets and that naturally could confuse some, but in reality they are both pretty straightforward systems to install and Perun give enough info on exactly how to do that. Note both systems are not compatible with certain brand P90’s and AUGs; there are lists which tell you the compatibility so bear this in mind if looking to purchase. For both you get trigger board, main board and program board along with wiring to connect the three components.

“IT IS MY OPINION THAT PERUN ARE FAST BECOMING MARKET LEADERS IN AIRSOFT ELECTRONICS. THE QUALITY OF WHAT THEY MAKE IS VERY HIGH, THEIR PRICING IS VERY RESPECTABLE, AND CUSTOMER SERVICE IS SECOND TO NONE”

The P90 does have a support board to go next to the trigger board; this is to ensure a firm fix. Installation requires the removal of the trigger systems and the trigger bars (HOORAH!) and the P90 is the easier of the two as all the electronics are external to the gearbox so no need to break open the casing; the AUG however does require you to get inside the V3 casing.

P90 INSTALL

Looking at the P90, after removal of the trigger bar and gearbox you need to remove all the old mechanical trigger assembly and original cut-off lever, along with the trigger bar; these are now obsolete. Affix the main board to the left hand side of the gearbox using the supplied screw and locking nut. In order to fit the new screw you will need to remove the casing screw from the right hand side; it is obvious which screw to remove. Once the main board is fixed

you need to fit the new cut-off lever using the original screw and spring. Here I would advise you fit the wires to the motor and the signal wires to correct location on the main board; be observant of orientation and be careful when pushing in the plugs, they are tight! I used my nails on the very edges and applied pressure until fully seated.

Fitting the trigger board I learnt it’s easier to attach the board to the longer of the three wires prior to fitting the gearbox. Perun say to fit the trigger board then feed the wires through but I found this to be difficult to get to. It was much easier to fit the support bar, board and magnet housing first with a loose fit then feed the trigger board through when fitting the gearbox. Once the gearbox is fully inserted you can simply slip the trigger board in place and snug up the retaining screws, but do pay attention to the signal wire as it does need to be in the correct position for the gearbox to go fully forward and needs to be routed in the right place for fitment of the upper receiver.

There are two extra hex screws on the boards; if there is any movement you can adjust the hex screws to make them more secure but don’t go crazy as you could break something. On the magnet housing is a screw for retention and this is to stop any movement as well as account for any slight adjustment should you need revise its position; again don’t go crazy something will break!

Now comes the program board; after inserting the gearbox retaining plate you can fit the program board as it just plugs on to the shorter signal wire.

You can fit the program board before fitting the back plate, but it doesn’t matter either way. Use the original screws to tighten down the backplate along with the program board.

After checking all the screws are tight you can go ahead and begin the trigger calibration. After going through the program menu choose the calibration setting. This process is a must as this ensures your safe mode is functional as well as both stages of the trigger. It is an easy process by pulling the trigger in all fire modes and pressing the program button, the system knows where each setting is.

Once the calibration is finished and correct you will hear a long beep followed by a green light to indicate a successful calibration, and it also indicates correct installation. That pretty much sums up the install on the P90 it really is as easy as 1-2-3. It has completely altered the performance of a platform I once hated; with the programming ability it is possible to personalise exactly how it works as with all Peruns and this is going to be a game changer and make the P90 the true CQB machine it always should have been!

AUG INSTALL

The AUG install was a fair bit more challenging I have to say due to the main body being much larger than that of the p90. Cable management was a bit more difficult and at times frustrating, but perseverance

“FITTING THE TRIGGER BOARD I LEARNT IT’S EASIER TO ATTACH THE BOARD TO THE LONGER OF THE THREE WIRES PRIOR TO FITTING THE GEARBOX. PERUN SAY TO FIT THE TRIGGER BOARD THEN FEED THE WIRES THROUGH BUT I FOUND THIS TO BE DIFFICULT TO GET TO.”

prevailed and I did not succumb. While the two systems have exactly the same operational properties installation is very different. Removal of the gearbox is similar to the P90 but can be a bit troublesome due to the motor cage, so you may have to gently lever that out.

To remove the trigger bar requires the complete trigger to be removed, but one thing to pay close attention to is the two little springs that reside under the trigger itself; these will ping out, trust me I know LOL! Once the bar is removed you can then fit the trigger board easily with two screws, and the magnet housing fits over the trigger. A small amount of super glue is

recommended; don’t over tighten the retaining screws as this deforms the trigger due to it being plastic and the trigger becomes stiff.

Now you will need to disassemble the gearbox, removing the external wiring and the internal mechanical trigger setup, trigger included and cut-off lever; none of this is needed any more! Once inside the gearbox I took the opportunity to make a few alterations just because I could, but that is for another day. The main board for the AUG is basically Perun’s V3 Optical System just with the trigger sensors and programming section spread out.

Thread the main board through the gap in the casing and secure using the cut-off lever screw, no need to over tighten that. You may find here that it is a good idea to shim your gears ensuring your sector gear is well clear of the board and the sensors. Failure to do this could cause damage to the board rendering your new Mosfet useless.

So with the main board fitted and gearbox casing all closed up, refit the motor cage and connect the motor wires ensuring correct polarity. You may notice that the screw used to hold the external circuit board from the original AUG wiring is now too long, but don’t panic as Perun supply one that is the correct length. You can now attach the two signal wires into the board. The long one goes to the front, the smaller one to the rear. Check correct orientation before install as these connections are also tight like the p90.

This is where I had difficulty feeding everything through the body of the AUG; the wires just would not conform and I couldn’t get the signal wires for the trigger to go where I wanted them to. After much battling and swearing I had an idea; I taped a long cleaning rod to the wires and first fed it through from front to back. You need to get the wires in the absolutely correct place on the AUG as a section of it passes right through the magwell and correct placement is needed for when the upper receiver is fitted; when inserting the gearbox be patient and pay attention to all of the wires as they can easily get snagged. I found life easier if the receiver release and safety switch were completely removed.

So now with the gearbox fitted and wiring properly positioned you can connect the trigger board and programming board. Fit the backplate and program board and voilà job done. Again the same as with the P90, you need to calibrate the trigger but first you need to reinstall the safety switch, that is of course if you did remove it like me. Once calibrated you are good to go.

As a result of the new Perun Mosfets my opinion on both the AUG and the P90 of that they have been improved greatly. While they are both still as ugly as sin (change my mind!) they operate so much better now, and I am looking forward to getting out to a game day with both of them and really put them through some rigorous testing… watch this space! So, all in all a massive round of applause to the genius people at Perun (https://perunairsoft.pl) and a massive thank you once again for giving us the chance to get hands on with these great new Mosfets! AA

“A SMALL AMOUNT OF SUPER GLUE IS RECOMMENDED; DON’T OVER TIGHTEN THE RETAINING SCREWS AS THIS DEFORMS THE TRIGGER DUE TO IT BEING PLASTIC AND THE TRIGGER BECOMES STIFF”