FORK ON THE ROAD

THE RICHNESS OF VINTAGE ON 5TH

STORY+PHOTOS: MARY ANN DESANTIS

EDITOR’S PICKEDITO

The food, the ambiance, and the historic location make having dinner at Vintage on 5th in Crystal River a rich experience.

I’ve never been disappointed by the advice to go where the locals go, and that mantra certainly rang true when I visited the Nature Coast. The recommendations were all the same: head downtown to Vintage on 5th, a locally owned eatery in a 1940s bungalow that was once a church.

Be forewarned, though, this eatery is so popular that reservations are a must. Even on a week night, patrons are lined up for prepared-to-order specialties that create a dining experience to be savored.

The fi rst item on the menu that caught my eye was the she-crab soup, a Charleston delicacy you don’t often see in Central Florida. The soup was creamy, fl avorful, and

5 FORKS

(OUT OF POSSIBLE 5) VINTAGE ON 5TH

114 NE 5th St., Crystal River, FL 34429 352.794.0004 Tues-Sat. 5-9 p.m. (10 p.m., Fri. & Sat.) www.vintageon5th.com Dining reservations recommended.

FORK REPORT:

Fine dining. $$$ // Seated: Immediately with reservations // Wait for meal: 30 minutes OUT-OF-THE-ORDINARY STARTERS ($5 - $9): Escargot served in garlic herb butter; Hickory-smoked pork belly with a sweet chili glaze; fried green tomatoes ENTREES ($18 - $32): Hand-cut Angus beef, “Maple Leaf Farms” duck breast; fresh-cut Gulf grouper; rack of lamb; porcini & truffl e ravioli (Served with trademark house salad, bread, and chef’s recommended side) FINE ENDINGS ($6 - $8): Old-fashioned root beer fl oat; homemade Key Lime pie; Crème brulee

HOW FORK ON THE ROAD WORKS Our reviewers are objective and unbiased. This is not a paid feature. Our reviewer makes two unannounced visits, and we pay for our meals.

elegant with just the right balance of dry sherry, seasoning, and sweetness.

My fascination with lowcountry cooking continued when I ordered Shrimp and Grits—another rich dish made with smoked Gouda cheese, shallots, baby spinach, smoked bacon, and portabella mushroom cream sauce. My husband opted for the more traditional bourbonglazed pork chop, which was tender and juicy.

To have such a dedicated clientele, owners Rodney and Jennifer Carr are doing everything right at Vintage on 5th, which is about an hour’s drive from Lake County. In addition to outstanding food, the service is impeccable. Our waiter was attentive and— even more impressive—knew his wine selection. Honored by Wine Spectator Magazine as having one of the most outstanding wine lists in the world for six consecutive years, Vintage on 5th offers 140 different wines, so the waiter’s recommendation was defi nitely appreciated.

The elegant pine dining room offers an intimate setting, but Vintage on 5th also has a wrap-around verandah for outdoor dining, where well-mannered canines are welcome.

JEREMIAH’S RESTAURANT AND BAR

Local gathering place and watering hole is favored for fl avor

STORY: JOHN SOTOMAYOR PHOTOS: FRED LOPEZ

Most people know towns that attract lots of tourism have a hidden gem preferred by locals for drinking, dining, and socializing away from the centralized over-crowding and mega-hype. In Mount Dora, that preferred place is Jeremiah’s Restaurant and Bar.

It is conveniently located between downtown Mount Dora and the Renninger’s Flea Market, near the Classic Dream Cars Museum of Speed. Despite its proximity to nearby attractions, it is off the beaten path and maintains a general lowkey, part-of-the-family vibe. Its popularity stems in part from the atmosphere.

“Jeremiah’s has one of the friendliest staffs in Lake County,” said owner Wayne Parker.

It is also popular for the food. Try the mouth-watering sirloin steak with fully loaded baked potato and fresh, crispy Italian bread. Enjoy a pint with your meal and then stop by their adjacent pub, McGregor’s for a second.

People enjoy the décor. The hanging model planes and trucks inside Jeremiah’s should look familiar to anyone who visits the Classic Dream Cars Museum of Speed. They were purchased from the museum.

“Most people enjoy seeing something different they do not see anywhere else,” said Parker.

In a town competing for attention, Jeremiah’s stands out on its own.

JEREMIAH’S RESTAURANT AND BAR

500 Highland St., Mount Dora 352.383.7444 Sunday-Thursday: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday and Saturday: 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

MCGREGOR’S:

Monday-Saturday: 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Sunday: 12 p.m.-2 a.m.

MR. CEBICHE

Ancient recipes with modern appeal

STORY: MICHELLE CLARK PHOTOS: FRED LOPEZ

From Vegan venues to German grub, dining options in Mount Dora are never humdrum. Known for its eclectic eateries, downtown Mount Dora boasts a variety normally seen in a metropolis. But of all the choices you can thoroughly enjoy, Mr. Cebiche, overlooking Donnelly Street, is a complete experience.

Peruvian food is a curious venture; one I embarked on for the fi rst time with Mr. Cebiche. A plate of foreign food always comes with a bit of excitement and a bit of anxiety. Certain kinds of food, such as Italian and Chinese, are so common in American dining that the fl avors are familiar. But Peruvian remains mysterious; a conglomeration of ancient Incan, Spanish, and other colonial infl uences.

I went with the staples for my fi rst Peruvian meal. For an appetizer, I ordered Papa Rellena, a dish the chef and owner, Jorge Bracamonte, said his mother used to make him as a boy in Peru. “A good house meal,” it is an egg-shaped potato cake stuffed with a tenderloin, olive, and raisin mixture and lightly fried. It was garnished with thin red onion slices soaked in citrus, and a cream of mayonnaise sauce the chef made himself. Absolutely everything is made in house. It is the Peruvian way. “In Peru there are no providers,

everyone has to cook that way” the chef told me. For my entrée I had Cebiche, the dish that is the source of the restaurant’s namesake. My variation was the Mixto Limeno. The surprisingly large portion of either tilapia or grouper (I had grouper) accompanied by squid, shrimp, muscles, and calamari served in a pool of citrus marinade. In the authentic Peruvian style, yam slices and corn kernels the size of dimes framed the plate. The seafood was undeniably fresh, as were all the ingredients, MR. CEBICHE but my palate was not weighed 411 North Donnelly St., down by fi shiness. And though Suite 212, Mount Dora by meal’s end I was quite full, I 352.735.8106 Tuesday - Thursday: did not feel heavy or sluggish. 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM Asking the chef how this could Friday - Saturday: 11:00 be, he said simply “It’s healthy.” AM - 10:00 PM To top it off, I enjoyed my meal Sunday: 11:00 AM - 9:00 PM with the house Merlot (Navarro Correas Privada), which was served generously. Chef Jorge prides himself on serving meals that are healthy and fresh, the way he’s always known. Good-for-you food that actually tastes good too. Soon new menu items will be introduced featuring medicinal herbs and drinks brought back from Peru. The food is exceptional, the environment welcoming. The wait time may be a little longer than usual, but it is only a testament to the quality on your plate. I suggest using the time to laugh with good company; it’s good for you too!