RESTAURANT REVIEW

QUARTERDECK

Out-of-the-way food joints may not initially catch your eye, but those are the places that most often captivate your taste buds with astonishingly good food and even better service. Such can be said for Quarterdeck, a perfectly quaint seafood (and more) restaurant in the picturesque community of Umatilla.

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For almost 22 years, Glen Key has captained this seathemed eatery. He opened Quarterdeck in his hometown after serving in the U.S. Marine Corps, and thus followed in the footsteps of his mother Latrell Key, who owns The Mason Jar Restaurant down the street.

When I arrived at Quarterdeck, I immediately knew I was in for a downhome experience as a lovely couple sitting outside chatted to me about the weather and ended our brief conversation with, “Enjoy your lunch.”

Once inside, I felt as if I had truly stepped onto the quarterdeck of a ship as I noticed the nautical décor all throughout the restaurant. The tiki-style bar also injected some fun to the maritime atmosphere.

The staff was extremely friendly and courteous and made sure I was comfortable before telling Glen I had arrived. Glen greeted me with a hearty handshake and explained that he wanted me to try a variety of dishes, including the restaurant’s “world famous” fi sh sandwich. He also asked how I wanted my fi sh cooked and being from the South, I replied fried. For those who are a little more health conscious, Quarterdeck also offers it blackened or grilled.

While I waited for my food, I talked to a few regulars who shared with me why they love Quarterdeck. The feedback was fairly unanimous: people love the fi sh sandwich and the welcoming staff. One couple described how Glen always walks around the restaurant welcoming and chatting with patrons. It’s why they say they keep coming back.

Sitting in front of a smorgasbord, I fi rst tried the fried, butterfl ied shrimp. These jumbo shrimp, along with other seafood on the menu, are delivered fresh to Quarterdeck and battered on site before frying. You can taste the difference from the frozen, pre-battered variety served by some restaurants. Freshness means quality. The same went for the fi sh fi llets I sampled from the day’s fi sh basket. The batter was light and fl avorful while still letting the great tastes of the sea shine through.

Quarterdeck’s fi sh sandwich lived up to its reputation. Aside from being battered and fried to perfection, the swai fi sh used for the sandwich had a slightly sweet, mild fl avor and delicate texture that was nice and palatable.

I also tried one of Quarterdeck’s lighter, seasonal menu items — the strawberry pecan chicken. This refreshing and satisfying salad is made with fresh romaine lettuce, strawberries, chopped pecans, mandarin orange slices, feta cheese, and strips of grilled chicken breast. It’s dressed with a sweet, yet tangy, raspberry vinaigrette.

Overall, I had a very enjoyable experience at Quarterdeck. The seafood was delicious and the service was impressive. It’s always nice to see businesses that believe good customer service is still important.

“We come about three times a month,” says Gina. “We come for the sandwiches and atmosphere. The food is great, and the boys love the burgers, the clam chowder, and of course, the fi sh sandwich.”

— TED, GINA, AND KYLE WATERS FROM UMATILLA

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT QUARTERDECK AND OWNER GLEN KEY, WATCH THIS MONTH’S EPISODE OF

Tune in every Saturday at 6p.m. on Bright House channel 49, Saturday and Sunday at 6p.m. on Comcast channel 20, or visit our website at lakeandsumterstyle.com

“They have the best fi sh sandwich in town,” says Scott. “I’ve been coming here for three years about once a week. And the grandchildren love the burgers.” “When they treat you like family.” Marcia adds: “you want to come back.”

— MARCIA AND SCOTT BURDICK FROM UMATILLA WITH THEIR GRANDCHILDREN, ETHAN AND EMMA, FROM FORT LAUDERDALE

ADDRESS: 831 S. Central Ave., Umatilla, FL 32784 PHONE: 352.669.4662 HOURS OF OPERATION: Monday–Saturday 11a.m.–9p.m.; Sunday 11a.m.–8p.m.

POPULAR DISHES: Quarterdeck’s World Famous Fish Sandwich: $7.99 QDB (Quarterdeck Burger): $7.29 Strawberry Pecan Chicken salad: $9.99 Ribeye (14-ounce): $16.99 Jumbo Shrimp: Five for $11.99; Six for $12.99; 12 for $18.99

“The people are so nice and the food is good,” says Buzzie. “When we come, we always get the same thing — the fi sh sandwich, blackened, with fries. I also like their coleslaw and the management checks on you. Sometimes they stay awhile and talk.”

— RICHARD AND BUZZIE ANDERSON FROM EUSTIS