Time Slip to an Era Past

Lamp no Yado

Aoni Onsen, Aomori

Hidden deep within the mountains near the small town of Kuroishi lies a charming inn. It’s only December 1st, and yet the snow has already piled up into large snow drifts lining the narrow windy roads. The only transport available is a small shuttle bus; the skilled driver completely at ease as he expertly navigates us down a steep decline into the valley. Steam lightly floats through the air, and a few gas lamps create a hazy glow against the snow covered surroundings. A weekend away Lamp no Yado (Aoni onsen) felt as if I had time-slipped into an era past. Hundreds of gas lamps line the ryokan halls and light pathways to the various baths. It’s unlike any other ryokan I’ve stayed in. The lack of electricity, power outlets, and phone reception forced us to go off the grid. A lovely weekend with nothing but good company, simple food, and four beautiful onsen to enjoy.

THE FOOD

Part of the quintessential ryokan experience is in the food. However if traditional Japanese cuisine is not your cup of tea, you may find yourself in a bit of a pickle (pun intended). Dinner included simmered dishes, fresh salmon, duck nabe, and more. Breakfast was a selection of pickles, rice, miso soup, and grilled fish caught fresh from the river running by the inn. The chefs prepare seasonal produce with simple flavors that pair well together, truly a delight to the palatte.

THE ROOM

Warm and inviting are the two words I would use to describe our accommodation for the night. Tatami, a window with views

over the river and snowy forest, a small veranda sitting above the moat running around the ryokan, and a small lamp providing a golden glow over the room. The bedding was a dream, the softest linens on a futon so comfortable you just melted into it.

THE BATHS

Lamp no Yado has four beautiful baths for guests to enjoy, including 3 gender separated baths and 1 konyoku (mixed). The mixed outdoor bath and waterfall viewing bath are separated from the main building across a small bridge on the property. Enjoying the cool air walking in a yukata (provided) along a dimly lit path is part of the charm of this onsen. The largest bath (pictured opposite) was my favorite. Made from Hiba wood, with high ceilings and glass panelled windows , the bath had completely different atmospheres during the daytime and night.

Lamp no Yado was founded in 1929.