by Patricia Lawrence

A Trip to Egypt, 2020

by Patricia Lawrence

In the fall of 2020, during the peak of the COVID pandemic I decided to venture off and visit some friends in Egypt. Much planning went into the trip and the day finally arrived to board the flight for Egypt. My bags were packed, and I headed to the airport to check the two bags. Travelling during a pandemic is a hassle at best: it is riddled with red tape, impossible deadlines, vaccines, and endless requirements. When I stepped up to the ticket counter, the ticket agent looked at my paperwork and informed me that I still needed to obtain a Visa to enter Egypt. After some protest, she discovered it was not needed after all. And I was finally allowed to board the plane.

My flight from Kentucky to Atlanta was a quick one. The next flight was a seven-and-a-half-hour flight from Atlanta to Paris. All the flights went smoothly, and they were a good experience despite wearing a mask. I did not get any sleep as I had hoped I would during the US to Paris flight. We landed in Paris at 7:30AM and I had an eleven-hour layover before boarding for Cairo. It was a boring and exhausting eleven hours, the COVID-19 protocol had most of the stores and restaurants closed, so there was virtually nothing to do while I waited.

I arrived in Cairo at 11:30 PM and ready for some much-needed sleep. My friend Yassmin Atieh greeted me at the door of her apartment in Heliopolis, which is a suburb of Cairo. She took my bags and sprayed them down with alcohol, to prevent bringing COVID into the house from the airport, while I took advantage of refreshing in a nice long shower. We chatted for a bit, and I presented her with gifts I had brought for her and her father for welcoming me into their home.

The next morning, I had a nice talk with Yassmin’s father, Dr. Mohamed Atieh. He is retired and spends most of his time at home, especially since the COVID-19 epidemic started. He is a very sweet gentleman and has always been a gracious host. I stayed at the apartment in Heliopolis with them until the following weekend, when I relocated near the stables in Sakkara.

We awoke early and headed for the stables by the Sakkara Pyramid. This place was fantastic. It sat at the edge of the desert where and had view of the Sakkara and Djoser Pyramids along with three other pyramids. There were Arabian horses everywhere at the stables. Yassmin owns about ten or eleven Arabian horses. Sakkara stables are owned by Dr. Mohamed Kamel, an international lawyer who has a home right down the road. I cannot express how truly beautiful this place was. I took in the view of the desert, the sound of the horses, and the voices of the grooms as they care for the horses. The whole ambiance will take your breath away.

I was introduced to Yassmin’s grooms; #1 groom was Ramy Arwad, and #2 groom was Eid. Both grooms are kind and a joy to be around. Ramy connected to me right away and we spent hours together over the next few weeks. Ramy was always smiling and greeted me every morning when I arrive at the stables, he was such a sweetheart. Ramy could not understand most of what I said, and I could not understand most of what he said. We smiled, laughed, pointed and made do with the language barrier. I also met the manager of the stable, Shady Moussa, who was also a very kind man.

Sunset at the stables.

Ramy Arwad and one of Yassmin’s horses.

Shady took us to a small inn around the corner from the stables and showed me a room that I could rent while there. It was a quaint little place called Sakkara Inn with a small bedroom and bath at a very reasonable rate. There was a small courtyard where you could sit and enjoy coffee or tea and talk to the Inn’s owner about the area and local events. It was a short walk to the stables and the hospitality was unbeatable. On the roof of the Inn, you could see the great Pyramids of Giza pointing toward the sky, along with the other smaller pyramids in the area. It was an absolutely amazing view.

There was an Arabian wedding the first night I stayed there, just outside the compound of the stables. The Egyptian weddings are lavish and very loud; they played music and shot guns way into the early morning hours. Shady walked me out of the compound, past the wedding, and around the corner to the Inn where I was staying. I thanked him and headed to my room for the night. From my room you could hear the loud music from the wedding, and the occasional gunshots rang out into the wee hours of the morning.

It was 4:00 in the morning; outside my bedroom window the daily ritual of the Muslim call for prayer reverberated with a melodic chant. I decided since I was already awake, I would go up to the roof to take a few photos of the surroundings and the Pyramids. Then, down to the garden to have a traditional Egyptian breakfast. Mohamed’s wife made eggs, falafels, pickled vegetables, and ful (a fava bean dish), served with bread. Next, I went to the stables where I found the stable manager, Shady. I went out to see Yassmin’s horse, Zebeeb, who I met 11 years ago on a previous trip. He has always been my favorite horse of hers and on this trip the old guy was starting to show his age.

Yassmin and I phoned our dear friend Dr. Hesham Fouad Kamel, who is an eye surgeon, and made plans to meet him the next day. The owner of the stables, the other Dr. Kamel, Dr. Mohamed Kamel, a neighbor and international lawyer from Giza, drove up and joined us by the arena overlooking the vast desert. He came in to spend a couple days at his home located near the stables. While I sat with him, I gazed out over the wide-open desert, sprinkled with a few stables and pyramids in the distance.

I asked Dr. Mohamed Kamel about the small pyramids that were on the hill behind the stables. He explained that they did not have a name, but they were the first pyramids build in the desert. He told me they allow people to go inside them and walk the spiral stairs to the bottom. Sadly, we were not able to make the arrangements to do so on this trip.

There was a beautiful villa in the compound that was for sale and Shady made it possible for me tour it. I could only look because the Egyptian Military who now runs the country has ruled that non-Egyptians cannot purchase property in Egypt. Later, Dr. Hesham Kamel picked us up and we set off to his stables in Giza near the great pyramids to view his beautiful Arabian horses. His stables are nestled at the foot of the great Giza Pyramids, and his horses were exquisite and a delight to watch.

After returning to the stable in Sakkara Dr. Mohamed Kamel treated us to a tour of his beautiful home which was like unto a palace. Everything was magnificent, the Egyptian/Moroccan decor took your breath away. Dr. Kamel shared with us that several movies had scenes that were shot at his house. I can certainly see why. Afterwards, we went outside to the pool area where you could see the majestic desert and the three un-named pyramids. In the game room we found soldier figurines from every military around the world; to my surprise, even some from the Civil War. It was a large and remarkable collection.

The next day, I arrived at the stables to help Ramy feed the horses and we groomed each one. Ramy could not speak English and I understood very little Arabic, but we still had fun. I later joined Yassmin and the two of us decided to go back down to the horses. On the way we saw an injured dog, leaning cowering against the building. We approached him slowly because he was hurt and scared. He had a rope tied around his neck that was about two feet long. He apparently had been tied up and beaten as he had cuts, an injured nose, a wounded eye and shoulder. The poor dog had arrived from the back gate that leads in from the desert. I fed him some meat while Yassmin cut the rope from around his neck, we treated him and let him rest. Twenty minutes later, I went back to check on him. He was still shaking. I sat with him and gained his trust and made him a bed of hay between the buildings where he could safely stay. I even tagged my new friend with the name “Rusty.”

Yassmin’s friend, Nicole Knoth “Nikki,” took us to visit the horses that she and Maya Ibrahim owned. Both ladies had some amazing horses, and their foals were especially adorable. After the grooms presented the horses, the vet arrived, and it was time to check which mares were ready for breeding. Two of mares remained out and the stallion was presented to them to be collected and then they artificially inseminate the mares.

When we returned home, Rusty ran to me, so happy to see me. The following morning, he seemed even better, wagging his tail with delight and I daresay, he had a toothy little smile on his face. Maha, Yassmin, and I set off for Cairo to the Khan Al-Khalili to go shopping. I loved this place, there is everything under the sun here. Maha escorted us to some of the old buildings that dated back 700 years or more. Old Cairo is nestled inside the wall, and this has been the market area for centuries. I took photos of all the archaic buildings; the architecture was so amazing. The Zane wood they

used to keep the building straight is over 700 years old. Zane is a hardwood like oak or ash, and it had to have been imported, since they did not have hardwood growing in Egypt at that time

There are hundreds of shops inside Old Cairo, down every alley, every street, all closely fitted side by side, on both sides of the street. The main street was there before the Pharaohs; this is where they lived and raised their children. I found hand painted papyrus, a few wallets, silk scarves among the treasures for sale. I was lucky to find some Libyan glass which I had been searching for since I arrived. This is the glass crystal that was formed from an asteroid impact 28 million years ago near the Egyptian and Libyan boarder. Tutankhamen “King Tut,” had one of the crystals in a necklace that was buried with him and was used for his protection. The aroma of the incense was powerful and inebriating. One of the vendors carried my favorite perfume. I purchased two small bottles of El Hennawy Perfumes that is imported from Saudi Arabia. I prefer their fragrance since there is no alcohol, and makes it smell considerably better. We found an artist for henna tattoos. Maha and I got Eye of Horus henna tattoos.

Old Cairo.

Dr. Hesham Kamel came and picked us up and we drove to his stables for a quick stop to see his Arabian stallion, Gareer Adam, that has some Ansata breeding. Then off for a horse-drawn carriage ride around the Great Pyramids of Giza. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining, not a cloud in the sky. We listened as the driver narrated our sightseeing tour. We met Hesham at the restaurant on the second-floor balcony which was quite picturesque; it was an amazing place to have lunch with an incredible view of the pyramids. As we talked into the evening, the sunset had an astonishing effect from the sun on the pyramids when it was setting. It reminds me of the history of the Sphinx, with the sun rising and setting. It’s

The ride around Giza, meeting Dr. Hesham Kamel at the restaurant, and our delicious meal.

a special place, a very fulfilling place for history lovers, it makes an indelible mark on the memory. After stopping by a fruit vendor on the return home, Hesham presented me with a 12-inch bronze statue of a water bearer holding a goat skin water bag and fruit. It was a thoughtful and lovely gift. The Egyptians are very generous of their time and gifts.

Dr. Hashem Kamel’s stallion, Gareer Adam (of all Al Khamsa bloodlines), by Hakemdar El Sheruk out of Safwah Adam.

Each morning, my routine with Rusty by my side, we enjoyed a traditional breakfast with the grooms. Then I would set out for the day’s adventure. We visited Alexandria on the Mediterranean where we met Maha and her father at the Ramses Hilton Hotel. Maha’s father arranged for us both to have an executive room at the hotel. After checking in Maha drove us to the palace of the late King Farouk. He grew up in a beautiful palace and was only 16 years old when he became King, from 1936-1952, being the great-great-

King Farouk’s Palace in Alexandria.

grandson of Muhammad Ali Pasha. He was the tenth ruler from the Muhammad Ali Dynasty. After touring the palace, we had tea and cake on the island of his seaside sanctuary. We walked over the bridge and around on the seashore. It was an enchanting evening.

The next day was the tour of the capital city of Alexandria. First, we went to the Roman Amphitheatre which was built as an openair theater in 4th century BC, during the Byzantine and Roman era. It was only re-discovered in 1960 during the construction of a new government building. The tall marble pillars still stand strong, and you can feel the events of history in your bones. If you stand there and close your eyes, you can envision people gathering there to enjoy the theater with the multi-colored marble columns and floors. You could imagine the warm pools of the complex. It transported you back several centuries for a moment. Next, we continued our journey to the Catacombs of Kom El Shaqafa to see more ancient artifacts and tombs that are collected there in one of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages. This place and the opposite feel of the theater, there you felt sorrow, as if the souls were still there today. There was a granite tomb filled with the bones of Arabian horses. It showed the importance of the Arabian horse to the Egyptians in the second century AD. 35 meters down was the Necropolis, which spans three levels, all under ground. It was a humbling experience. In the evening we visited the Fish Market along the shore of the Mediterranean Sea for dinner.

The last day of our stay in Alexandria, Maha drove us to the Royal Jewelry Museum which held the last royal family’s jewelry

Above, the coast at Alexandria. Below, at the Royal Jewelry Museum.

collection. The collection is at the former palace of the royal family. This place is breathtaking, and I took photos of everything. Diamond tiara, the earrings and necklaces all adorned in rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and gold. Gold and bronze trophies, gold and lapis ink wells, jeweled tea sets, jeweled swords, and even a jeweled chess set. You can only imagine the wealthy families that owned such items and the history behind them.

After the museum tour, we headed to the Sporting Club in Alexandria where Maha had one of her horses stabled. We watched as Maha brought her horse into the arena and rode her for a bit. Some of Maha and Nikki’s horses were imported from Germany: AlQusar Latif (NK Lofty x Pamira Al Qusar); and NK Nemir (NK Nathan x Nakibya); bred by Dr. Hans Nagel in Germany.

Nicole (Nikki) Knothole on the left with NK Nemir and Maha Ibrahim on the right with AlQusar Latif.

After another delightful traditional breakfast with the grooms in Sakkara, I was asked if I would like to go for a ride in the dessert. It has been a few years since I was on a horse — after the loss of my beloved stallion, I stopped riding. But I was in Egypt and when would I get a chance to fulfill a dream and ride in the desert again? Rami picked out a dapple-gray mare for me. He saddled up the mare and the stallion; we took them through the gate and out into the wide-open desert of the Sahara. It was a comfortable warm day. All you could see was sand for as far as the eye could reach, with a few pyramids and sand dunes popping out of the vastness. I am not used to English saddles and have always ridden with a western saddle. Of course, an English saddle was my only option now. I loved the view, but the mare was ready to run, and I could not find my seat in that English saddle. You could feel the soft warm sand shift under the horse hooves while you were riding. It did not make for the enjoyment of riding in the desert that I had dreamed, but riding in the desert, well, I cannot express the feeling of riding there other than a dream come true. I must admit, I was a bit happy when we returned to the stables and found the grooms were roasting fresh corn. It was a relaxing evening in the desert in the company of the grooms. It felt like home, in the land of Pharaohs.

Above, harvesting alfalfa (or berseem). Below, the grooms roasting corn.

On the way back to the hotel Shady stopped at a place on the side of the desert road that made drinks from sugar cane in Sakkara. This small shop put stalks of sugar cane into a machine that pressed the juice and then poured it directly into a large mug for drinking. It made a refreshing drink that was somewhat of a grapefruit color and very sweet.

Again, I heard the call to prayer sound at 4:00 AM over the loudspeaker outside my window. This can be startling and was much different from the serenity of country life, but you learn to adapt while you are there. Starting early, Shady was ready to go. The grooms and I joined him. We drove to a farm that grew alfalfa. The alfalfa was about a foot tall. The grooms with their sickles in hand started harvesting the crop until they filled the back of the truck for the horses.

That afternoon we went to visit Dr. Mohamed Kamel again. His guns were now returned from cleaning, and he wanted to show his gun room which housed about 15 guns, mostly single shot, one double barrel, and a few handguns; one was very old. It was a collection he was proud of and wanted to share with us.

The following morning, the grooms were hard at work in their usual routine where Yassmin stables her horses. Her Arabian stallion Joman was brought to the arena to breed to another of Yassmin’s Arabian mares. When Maha arrived, she drove us to Old Cairo where I could pick up some Egyptian cloth. Later, we decided on a tour of the old churches in Cairo, but they were closed after 4:00 PM, so we could not go inside. We changed plans to go to New Cairo instead where the more affluent Egyptians live. New Cairo was more like New York City, you could feel the prosperity: stores on both side of the street of an open walkway. It was all lit up with signs, outdoor restaurants, and people were busy shopping in the stores. This is where we met up with Nicki for dinner that evening in an open area mall.

The next morning the temperature was cool. The desert gets rather cool at night that time of year. I pulled a chair into the warmth of the sun by the arena, to take in another day of this incredible landscape. A few minutes later Maha arrived and took us to a museum where a man from the1940s started a training school to teach children how to make crafts. Some of the crafts were things like handmade carpets and pottery. His daughter now carries on the tradition. She pays the artist one-third of the sales price for the items they make. We found one-of-a-kind carpets and unique pottery; things you will never see anywhere else. I spotted a bowl with two small duck figures on the side, I would purchase this as a gift for my stepmother since my father had loved ducks.

That evening we went for ride on an authentic Egyptian Feluka boat down the Nile River. The sun was setting, and it was getting darker, the Nile was very calm that evening. What a gorgeous sight, the lights of the city were aglow along the banks reflecting their illumination on the Nile like floating diamonds and shimmering jewels. We ate dinner on the boat, under the sails of the Feluka; it was intoxicating.

In the morning, another trip back to Old Cairo to go shopping again. Maha, an architect, took us to an ancient building that she and her team restored. It was a magnificent 850-year-old building that was still standing, adorned with all the intricate detail in its centuries-old craftsmanship. Next, we headed down the old street of the Khan el Khalili, the shopping district, where we stopped at a crystal shop. Later we stopped by the silver shop where I discovered a pendant of the Egyptian goddess Isis along with other silver baubles before returning home to Sakkara.

On my last morning in Sakkara, I bid my good-byes to the grooms and special good-bye to my trusted and now happy and healthy pal, Rusty. It was time to leave Sakkara for the last time. We left for Cairo where we checked into the Ramses Hilton Cairo Hotel which overlooks the ever-winding Nile River. It was astonishing and thought provoking to look out at the Nile and realize it is the longest river in the world, stretching 4,187 miles into Africa. Cozy in my hotel room, I found shopping in the hotel lobby was much easier than facing the rainstorms in the streets of Cairo during my final 72 hours in Egypt.

As I boarded the plane and said farewell to the historic Land of the Pharaohs, the Sakkara grooms, Rusty, the adventures and all the beautiful Arabian horses; in my mind’s eye I knew would have a lifetime of precious memories to cherish. My word of advice to all: Never be afraid to explore your imagination and go places that you have always dreamed of going. Life is short, so live it to the fullest.

Cairo as night falls over the Nile.

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